Panoramic Photography - Finding the Nodal Point
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2024
- This tutorial will help people new to photographing panoramas understand what Parallax Error and how to eliminate it to allow you to create seamless panoramas within 5 minutes.
Parallax Error occurs when photographing panoramas when the lens on your camera is not rotated around the Nodal Point/Entrance pupil of the lens.
This will result in your foreground detail not lining up with your background detail and can be easily seen as parts of the foreground will be easily seen as the foreground appearing multiple times once the panoramic image is stitched together.
This makes Parallax Error very hard to remove when editing your images since the necessary background detail might be obscured by some foreground detail.
Note If you shoot Panoramas only at infinity and never include any foreground detail, than the No Parallax Point is not a concern, but if you want to include foreground detail, middle-ground detail and background detail in your panorama than you need to have your camera rotate around the No Parallax Point.
Neewer rail nodal slide quick release clamp: bit.ly/3f6SRuU
Video Time-line
00:00 Panoramic Photography - Finding the Nodal Point
00:46 What is Parallax Error and is it important
02:25 What gear you need
05:27 Setting up my D500 and 18-140mm lens to remove Parallax Error
09:26 Setting up my D500 and 11-20mm lens to remove Parallax Error
11:35 Summarising the importance of remove Parallax Error when capturing panoramic images
Social media Links!
Facebook: bit.ly/39TcPEO
Gear used during this video:
Nikon D500
Nikon AF-S DX 18-140mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR
Tokina AT-X 11-20mm f/2.8 PRO DX
Manfrotto 055XPROB Tripod
Sony ZV-1
BOYA BY-WM4 Mark II 2.4G Wireless Microphone
The best panorama tutorial on TH-cam! Stumbled across it a long time ago and when I got serious about this I remembered your backyard and the poles! 👍🏾
Glad it was helpful! 😄
This is very useful and the information I was looking for, next week I will be in the mountains with minimal Light pollution. Thanks to you, I found exactly the information I was looking for for my Milky Way photos. Thank you very much
You're welcome, good luck and thanks for letting me know that this tutorial helped you 😁
Just perfect. The easiest way ever to find the nodal point. Thank you.
Glad that I was able to help you 😌
Without doubt one of the best photography TH-cam channels you can watch.
No useless wrong information and unrelated annoying B roll just good honest
information from a man that has been behind the camera for a very long time.
I will be giving this channel a mention on my channel very shortly.
Thank you Charles for another well informed constructive video.
Have subscribed to your channel.
Cheers
Thank you very much for your enhearten feedback. Photography as been a way of life and a passion for me and carried me through some very dark times in my life.
@@CharlesNPhotography Hi Charles
I am a commercial photographer from Sydney. Have been for over 18 years now.
I also conduct photography workshops here in the Blue mountains of NSW.
Take care
Charles, thank you for this video (and others). I tried to do a pano of the Christmas lights at City Hall Park but the closest trees were too close and caused issues. I found this video and ordered the nodal rail; your video made set-up a snap! Thanks again.
Glad that this tutorial was of help to you 😀🙏
Thanks for this terrific tutorial. Everything I wanted to know about how to use my new Neewer panning rail, which comes with no instructions. So clearly explained!
Glad it was helpful! and thank you for letting me know that you found value in this tutorial 🙏
Great tutorial now I know what I need to do to remove parallax error of my panorama’s. I didn’t realise you needed this part.
I'm glad that this tutorial was able to help you out
This is a very good explanation. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!, my next video that will be uploaded will be on taking Panoramas while Traveling 🙏
This is the best video explaining the need for finding a nodal point, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Great simple tutorial. Thanks mate👍
Glad it helped🙏
Great tutorial! Thank you so much! 👍👍👍
You're very welcome! and glad that it was helpful for you
So well explained! Thank you Sir!
Glad it was helpful! and thank you for letting me know that this tutorial was of help to you 🙏
What an informative video. I watched this a few weeks ago and ordered that slider you are using - tried it out as soon as I got it and it works perfectly just like you demonstrated. My Nikon is now making panoramic picture taking so much easier with your technique. One thing you didn't mention which maybe should be brought to the attention of your subscribers is that, even if you don't have a near and far object in your subject, it is probably wise to set the lens to the position you have recorded for that focal length, as it costs nothing and you never know how much even mid distance objects may react to far distant objects. Once you've gone to the trouble of making your measurements, it's a slam dunk that you should then use them when possible. Thanks again for your help with this video, Such a simple technique yet, so helpful when it comes to the editing stage on the computer later on!
Thank you very much for your helpful feedback.🙏
Thanks for making it easy to understand!!
You are so welcome! and happy to have helped you
Excellent explanation! Many thanks!
Glad it was helpful! and thanks for letting me know that you found value in this video tutorial 🙏
Simple and useful, thank you Charles^^
Glad to hear that!
Perfect tutorial!
Thank you so much Ed 🙏
Thanks for sharing Charles!
My pleasure and thanks for watching
Yup, it's the entrance pupil - one of the two nodal points. Roughly, it's where the aperture iris 'appears' to be when you look into the lens.
Thank you for your reply 🙏
A very comprehensive demonstration of finding nodal point and a useful tip to measure in landscape mode fr better accuracy. Thanks.
Great to hear that you found this tutorial helpful, much appreciated 🙏
@@CharlesNPhotography I found the nodal point on my MFT 25mm Voigtlander nokton f/0.95 prime yesterday using your method. I made a 9 image panorama with 50% overlap in Hugin. I used a minimum of control points and could find absolutely no errors. Many thanks again.
@@bernym4047 Great to hear that, thank you
Thank you, this is a very concise and informative video regarding the subject
Glad it was helpful🙏
Excellent Explanation Charles.
Thank you very much for letting me know that this tutorial helped you out .🙏
Great tutorial! Thanks! This was everything I needed and void of all the chatter and off-topic tangents common in most other videos from other. I’m a subscriber! Keep up the great work, sir!
Glad it was helpful! and thanks for letting me know that you appreciate the work that goes into my video tutorials. I try to keep them as simple as possible while still explaining how to use your gear.
One question: I’m just getting started with panos and noticed it’s hard to find a way to mount a telephoto lens collar foot to the nodal rail. Is this because longer lenses don’t have much parallax? I was going to try my RF 100-500mm lens.
I've seen my share of videos on TH-cam on this subject. Your explanation was by far the easiest to follow and most thoroughly explained. Thank you!
Thank you so much fr your feedback, very much appreciated 🙏
Very clearly explained Sir ! Thanks
You are welcome, and thanks for letting me know that you appreciated this video 🙏
Excellent, many thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Hi thank you so much, I do watch all your videos but on the TV so I do not comment. However I always give a thumbs up. I am getting on a bit now and mostly use 4x5 so i am always trying new things with digital. Thanks from Eric near Cambridge England
Thanks for sharing!!
Great tutorial thanks so much
Glad it was helpful! and thanks for watching and commenting 🙏
Well presented. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! 🙏
Brilliant explanation and methodology,
Many thanks! 😉
Excellent thanks for sharing, I would like to start shooting panoramas. I bought one of those expensive nodal pint system but it takes longer to set it, this is much better and cheap option, why I didn’t see this video before
Thank you very much for your comment, very much appreciated 😀
Sir, I take my hat off to you. Thank you for the video !!
You are very welcome, and thank you for letting me know that you liked my video🙏
Thanks for the Video, the information you've provided is extremely useful, thanks for sharing :)
You're welcome, and thanks for letting me know 😊
This is what I know nothing about Thank you Charles !!
I hope this video helped you then!
Very helpful, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching! and glad that this tutorial was of help to you 😉
I just wanted to thank you again for your utube videos they are great to the point giving you all the facts as you go you are a great teacher and I,d like to meet up but that ain’t going to happen because I’m in the UK I don’t know how I could private message you but I guess if you gave out your info you would be inundated with so many messages you would have no time doing what you do. Thanks again Steve.
I appreciate that, and happy that you like and appreciate my content. This is my Facebook page facebook.com/CharlesPhotoPlace
You can message me through it.
My photography professor!
Thank you very much, I try and impart the photographic knowledge that I'm accrued over the years to help people in their photography walk
Very useful information and very nicely put
Thanks a lot and glad it was helpful
THANKS FOR SHARING THIS VIDEO
My pleasure
Thanks for your help
Happy to help
Awesome 👏 thanks for sharing
My pleasure 😊 and thanks for watching this tutorial 🙏
Hi Charles
Brilliant Tutorial
Tried your method of finding the nodal point. The gear i'am using is a Neewer levelling plate, Neewer fluid panning head, Neewer nodal slide. I found it interesting that when I tried using my sigma 18-250 lens from 18 to 250 there was only a 13mm difference across all the focal lengths. However when i used my Tokina 11-16mm lens it stayed at 62mm through all the focal lengths.
Thanks again for your excellent videos
Yes, that is right. I use to own the Tokina 11-16mm and the Nodal Point didn't move
@@CharlesNPhotography One question Charles if you don't mind. When shooting a panorama of the night sky involving the milky way as the main feature does the nodal point come into play ?
Great video. I've been assembling the hardware to try pano photography. Used the same techniques to measure the nodal point for several lenses and zoom settings. One caution, be sure to get the longer rail so it covers all possibilities.
Great to hear!, yes that's why I chose the 200mm rail to be on the safe side
However, on my longer rail the end of the rail was visible in the shot and I needed a smaller rail of 120 mm to ensure the rail wasn't seen. Agree, great video explains concept so that it is easy to understand
Thanks for sharing very interesting
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you
You're very welcome 🙏
So informative and well spoken. Thank you sir! 👏
Glad it was helpful!
Great job Charles thank you for making this very easy to understand! DO you have a link for that Neewer bracket you use?
All the gear that I use is listed in this videos description: th-cam.com/video/0KXFAZg4pWo/w-d-xo.html
I bought the Newer bracket on eBay.
Thanks for this video. I fninally get it 😅
Glad I could help!
Excellent video, thank you! What I take away is the basic idea that the front element of the lens is the pivot point?
No! the "pivot Point" or Nodal Point will change depending on the lens you use and the Focal Length you use as well. I explain this very well in this video.
th-cam.com/video/FDa4BPpkZIU/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared&t=327
This was great! Thank you! Just now about to enter the Pano world snowshoeing in Glacier National in Montana. So Im using Fuji gfx100s taking 23mm , 80mm and 250mm primes. If im using a 200mm 35mm equivalent prime lens ( the 250 lens) will there be so little parallax error to even bother putting that lens on the nodal rail?
Have fun!, yes and the easiest way to see if you have parallax error is to take a few photos and see in object in the foreground match with object in the background
Thanks Charles. I was wondering, if you place your nodal rail in a different position, would the nodal point be different ? How do you ensure the nodal rail is set in only 1 position. Thanks.
Good questions!
1: "if you place your nodal rail in a different position, would the nodal point be different?" YES, because you've moved the rail the Nodal Point will also have moved.
2: How do you ensure the nodal rail is set in only 1 position. The Nodal Rail has a ruler in millimeters on t and I mark where the rail is supposed to be for the lens. If I use more than 1 lens, then I would mark the rail in more than 1 position.
Very practical and most rapid way to find the point!
Just a question: if I put the center axe of the tripod and the two distances on the same line ( for example a straight line at the sight on the road 🛣️) do I get more accurate results??
Many thanks!
Maybe, but never tried it that way
Thank you so much for your advice it was very helpful I have watched a number of your videos and am learning a bit more although I do have a couple of specific questions to ask regarding the KIT I would need. How can I find out all the bits that I will need to fit onto my tripod? Any thank you once again
Hi Steve I am going to do a short video showing all the gear I use to take panoramas very soon, so keep an eye out for it.
@@CharlesNPhotography dear Charles I’m not that good with modern tech like utube so this is a short message to test that this get to you. I don’t know if this is a public message (please let me know) but in any case I would like to thank you so much for your kind reply.
I would like to email you or communicate without it being public if that’s ok with you? For emails I use a yahoo. All the best and I will keep an eye out for that utube link thank you once again.
Thank for your enlightening video! I’d like to ask if the position of the camera, vertical or horizontal, on the nodal rail requires to do the procedure you demonstrate twice. Thank you in advance!
The tripod has to be level left to right and front to back. Once the camera is positioned at the Nodal point, you can tilt the camera from the center axis of thew camera. I hope I have answered your question properly, if not please give me more detail.
@@CharlesNPhotography , thank you very much for your prompt response. If I understood it right, once I set the camera on the right point on the nodal rail, then I can put the camera vertically and take the photo, without having to repeat the process of finding the right spot on the rail, right?
@@nikostzianakakis7750 Yes you are correct, the camera will be in the right place whether you shoot in Landscape or Portrait (upright) orientation
@@CharlesNPhotography , once again, thank you very much for your response and time! Best regards!
@Nikos Tzianakakis You're more than welcome
Charles, can you clarify what we are measuring by the nodal point measurement. Is it the distance between that when you centre the nodal rail over the tripod centre and the nodal reading on the nodal rail when you get the no parallax: the difference is the nodal measurement (or if the zero point is the nodal rail when you first centre it over the tripod centre). Also can you explain how to centre the camera exactly, I do not think your video demonstrated this (I know this is very time consuming).. Thanks.
Good Questions;
1: The Nodal Rail is set correctly when there's no parallax error shown in your photos between the 2 poles you've set to check for parallax error
2: can you explain how to centre the camera exactly!: the 1st pole and your camera must by in a straight line and then I make sure that the center focus point on my camera is in the center of the 1st pole. If this is not done, then you'll have no way of properly working out the parallax error.
Watch the video from this point th-cam.com/video/FDa4BPpkZIU/w-d-xo.html
@@CharlesNPhotography
Thanks I think I understand it 100pc now
Does this rig work if you also did multi-row pano?
Yea, definitely
Very good explanation, BUT... What happens if the distance between that front stick and the background changes? What if the front stick is moved closer to your lens? Or further away? Do your set lens calculations still work?
What if the front stick is moved closer to your lens?
If the front stick is too close then you may not be able to see the back stick clearly.
Both sticks have to be the same size in width.
What if the front stick is moved further away?
It doesn't matter if the front stick is further away, as long as the back stick is at least 5 meters further back.
And that both sticks are clearly visible on your camera
@@CharlesNPhotography Perhaps I didn't explain myself properly. Let's say the relative alignment distances between the foreground measurement stick and the background subject are significantly changed from you example? Does your nodal point calculus still work? So, for example, if your background is 30 feet away, and your front stick is 4 feet away, will you get the same results (with the same lenses)?
@@RobertFalconer1967 Yes, and as long as background marker is clearly visible, it would be slightly more accurate
@@CharlesNPhotography Having just tested all this thoroughly, one thing I noticed is that on a full frame setup, for example, with the camera set to portrait orientation mode, and a 24-70mm lens set at either 28mm or 35mm, the nodal point vertical alignment of the foreground and background items don't appear to shift relative to one another at all...no matter where the slider is set. Leading me to conclude that in portrait orientation this doesn't matter nearly as much because you're not shifting as much left to right. Or are you supposed to set the nodal point of the lens while your camera is oriented in landscape mode, before rotating over to portrait mode?