Panoramic Photography No Parallax - Find the Nodal Point - Panorama From Shoot to Edit in Lightroom
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 มิ.ย. 2024
- Basic things you need to know to shoot amazing Panorama photos, from shoot to edit.
Ever had problems with stitching your Panorama images together? You might be having a "Parallax" problem, which you can fix by moving your rotation point from the camera to the Nodal Point on your lens.
This is the Nodal Rail and Ball Head I recommend:
Nodal rail: amzn.to/3jPivVl
Ball head: amzn.to/331pFyK
Panning Clamp: amzn.to/2F7Z1vL
Website:
www.olihphotography.com/
www.enroute.is/
Email. oli@olih.is
Facebook: / olihphotos
Instagram: / olih_photography
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Nice to see someone so passionate about explaining a process and wanting the viewer to understand rather just serving up a vague summary for the sake of drawing views. Thank you.
Thank you 🙏
best no parallax explanation Ive seen.
Outstanding explanation... many thanks!!!
OliH and Nick Carver are probably my fave photography channels
Jake Johnson I’m happy to hear my friend... thank you 🙏
No Andy Mumford? :)
I bought a nodal raik made by Neewer. It is well made and cost me less than $20 US. Good, easy to understand video. Thanks,
You’re welcome :-)
Great and informative video man!
I’m glad you like it :-)
I always was thinking why one would need to shoot panoramas if there are wide angle lenses. But this video really made clear to me that panoramas don't push the background away like wide angle lenses do and there this looks much more natural and unforced then wide angle lenses.
im thanking you for this information.
You are very welcome my friend... glad this helped :-)
really interesting. i haven't actually tried panoramic photography in a while!
thanks for sharing all this beautiful content with us!
really enjoyed watching this
Thank you for your comment... I hope you can use this in your work :-)
This is the best video I have seen, explaining the nodal point, parallax and panorama photography. Thanks for sharing this with us :-)
So glad you like it... thank you for watching :-)
Nobel point
Thank you. This was a great primer on Nodal/Parallax - a subject I am trying to understand more with my own landscapes. Cheers.
Great video. Always wondered about the nodal rail. Thanks
Mark Mozley thank you... I’m glad the video helped :-)
Thank you for posting this well put together introduction to Nodal Points and how to integrate into taking better panos - cheers
You are welcome
I also like to shoot panoramas. As easy as it would be to do, the lens manufacturers could mark on the lens where the nodal point is. Then setup would be very easy for everyone.
Great video, I’m going to pick myself up one of these!
Thank you 🙏
okay wow! i love your video! so much
thank you
Awesome thanks- I finally get it!!
Cindy O'Hara great :-)
So happy if this is helping anybody :-)
Hello mam I tried to do panorama but in my light room there is no option to merge or even panorama. Could you please guide me, which version of light room to use. My pics are took in raw format.
very detailed and very informative! I probably need to watch it a few times to understand it haha
Moment of Surrender as many times as you need :-) but then it’s also good to try :-)
awesome camera and fantastic tutorial!!!!!
Thank you...
I’m happy you like it :-)
This is excellent. Thank you for the class.
You are welcome my friend 🙏
Informative well presented video, thanks!
You are welcome :-)
Nice video, quite helpful thanks. Do you happen to know Ragnar Axelsson?
Beautiful video
Thanks buddy
Thank you. Very informative.
You are welcome 🙏
Great that you explained exposing for the brightest part of the panorama. When you use a zoom lens, will that nodal point be the same for all focal lengths of that lens?
Mike Keller good question! No, you will have to find the nodal point on every lens you want to use for this. It’s usually not as important to do this if you are zooming a lot... it’s mostly important to do this if you have a foreground element pretty close :-)
I hope this helps :-)
Thanks for the great video. I have a question I hope you can answer.
I just bought a Pan Head and "L" bracket for my Canon Rebel T3I. I have
the arca fitting with a center marking on the pan head. The center of
the "L" bracket on the camera is not marked either horizontal or
vertical and has a slot for mounting on each side. When mounting it in
landscape mode I have no trouble determining the center point because of
a mark on the camera over the mounting hole, but when trying to mount it in
the Portrait position I don't know how to determine the proper point to
put over the pivot point. Is it critical that it be directly over the
pivot point as in landscape mode and if so can you describe a way to
determine the point to be centered in the arca fitting on the head?
Thanks
Nice Tutorial.
Nice explanation for those is interested in a panorama. easy to understand.
Thank you :-)
I’m glad you like it
Very helpful explanation and pictures (video) to go with it, many people are visual learners (need pictures or video to help learning), this video is very useful! Thumbs up!
I’m glad you like it... thanks 🙏
Sæll Óli, gaman að sjá þetta myndband, mbkv frá Monument Valley
Kær kveðja 😊
Bravo.
ian bayley thank you 😊
Thanks for the video. Which L brackets are you using? Any specific recommendation?
You are welcome :-)
I use RRS L-bracket, ballhead and nodal rail... Yes a little pricy, but super quality and it's made to last
Whowww so much good informration!
I’m glad you like it :-)
good explained video friend.
Thank you 🙏
… thank you for Informationen !
greetings from Chile (eastern islands) !! ;)
Wish I was there :-)
Nice ride😁
Hi, Oli. Waht a great video! What tripod head are you using with the nodal point rail? Thanks a lot!
Thank you... I’m using RRS BH-55 BALL HEAD
It is very good :-)
Best explanation.
Tafsir Ahmed thank you :-)
Thanks OliH P. for this helpfull video! I have a question; I'm looking for a Nodal Slide to buy. But don't know what length I should go for. I see 10, 14, 19, 20 cms... It's for my canon 16-35mm lens which I use most of the time. But is would be great if the Nodal Slide could also be used for my other lenses like the 24-70. Which size would you recommend? I tried if I could see if you were using the 16-35 as well but couldn't see it clearly :). Plus: I want to use my Benro Filters, so the slider can't stick out even 1mm. Hope you can help me! From the Netherlands, Thanks!
For panos I use my canon 5D mark iv... heavy DSL, and the lenses I use for panos with my slide are 16-35 and 24-70... never had any problems :-)
The slide I use is this one: amzn.to/3g0Fg7I
it's great! not the cheapest one, but it is solid and will last you for a long time :-)
I thought I would add that you need to do this for every lens you use and every focal point you use.
👍
Excellent video in one of my favourite locations! But the one thing I really need to know is how to get lightroom in Iceland, I was surprised when I tried to subscribe to lightroom/photoshop here in Iceland its not available.. Any advise would be very welcome. Talk fyrir
sorry, i missed this comment before... I buy creative cloud with help from relatives from US... not in Iceland... it's more expensive!
Can you use a vpn for this sort or stuff?
hi Oli, my question is which nodal slide do you use for your 24-70mm IS it the MPR-CL II ? and do you have a panning head just under your nodal slide ?, do you use wider lens to do your panoramas ? if yes , do you use the same nodal slide ( MPR-CL II ), do you see the end of the slide in your photo, its not too long ? habe you tried the MPR-CL ? if I forget something please let me know
thanks
i mostly use my 24-70 and 16-35 for my panos... and yes, I have a pano head... it's not necessary but I find it helpful :-)
How does the nodal slide work with filters and a canon 16-35, 24-70, or 50mm? It looks like the slide might get in the way when using a Lee Filter system. Thank you for the video and your reply.
wendy chapman hi there :-)
I am using NiSi filter system... similar in size as lee filters... I never had any problems on my canon 16-35 nor my 24-70.
So I guess the answer is: it’s not a problem :-)
I hope this helps
@@oli-haukur-valtysson Thank you. I appreciate your reply. Great instruction in the video as well.
wendy chapman you’re welcome and thank you :-)
Hi OliH, Adam here, from Jamaica; can you explain why on my nodal rail, that the positions for my 35mm and 85mm lenses are at the same point on the rail; Am I doing something wrong. I followed the setup re the vertical objects in the fore and background...I'm using a levelling base, a panning head and a L-bracket.
If you do the test with 2 poles... you should get the exact spot on the rail... if it happens to pe on the same place for 2 lenses... does not matter... only that you don’t see parallax :-)
awesome Vid, Oli! I would suggest a follow up vid using 2 or 3 rows of images; maybe a vid using a Pano head, too! Either way, excellent presentation.
(on a side note, you might want to start putting a 800m/ 1/2 mile run in every other day. Those of us w/ larger frames get winded more easily as we get older - take good care of yourself, my friend.)
Thank you... I’m actually in pretty good shape :-) I got a bit nervous in front of the camera at first... getting better now... working on it ;-)
OliH Photography fantastic, my friend. I look forward to your next post!
Much success in your art in 2020!
When you mount the camera to the nodal slide, how do you align the camera position so that the center axis of the lens (running from the front element of the lens to the rear of the lens) is centered on the nodal slide?
Im not sure I understand the question... sorry :-)
@8:10 Why are you trying to level your camera by adjusting the legs and not the ball head? Does it make any difference if you use the one instead of the other?
Not at all… 🤠
I assume I can use my macro focusing rail in a similar fashion?
Works the same... never tried it but if you can turn the camera around the nodal point instead of the sensor you’re good to go :-)
Awesome video on Nodal Point!
However, when you are doing the overlaps; why aren't you taking advantage the Graduated Circular Ruler from the Pivot head in order to get any precise measurements versus estimating the overlaps?
Thank you... well... it’s a habit, I eyeball everything :-) Not very scientific, but it works for me, I just overlap generously and it’s never a problem.
But if you feel it’s better to use the ruler i urge you to do that :-)
Happy holidays
@@oli-haukur-valtysson Thanks for the prompt response. I do not have a Nodal device. I am about to receive a SWEBO device that I can use to do PANO shots. This device ( Swebo Ls18r Macro Focusing Slide Rail Micrometer) has a similar configuration as your RightStuff...
Have fun with it :-)
If I am shooting with a 50 mm to a landscape without any object that is in close proximity, I think you said about a feet away, there won't be any possibility of a Parallax, would there?
good
Thank you
I was thinking that if you doubled up on every shot - one with an ND grad and one without, then you'd have more control over the variation between the brighter (sun) and less bright extremes of the panorama. Then in post you could fade off the ND grad effect with each subsequent image. This would perhaps give even more control of the light.
I see that you touched on this at the end, but is it a good thought?
p.s. Just discovered your channel. I like. Subscribed.
Avidcomp hi and thank you for your input :-)
My rule is never to use filters unless I have to... I check if I’m exposed in every shot... if somewhere I’m over I add a graduated filter... but just enough to fix the exposure... to balance it out i simply do I in post... very easy if you are exposed in every frame :-)
However there is no right or wrong method... this is how I do it :-)
I hope this clarifies
@@oli-haukur-valtyssonThanks for the reply. I haven't got the "rod", but I have some video equipment, slide plates etc.. I think I'll give this hi-res pana stuff a go for fun.
what model is your tripod and head?
Tripod is Gitzo and ball head is RRS :-)
Would this still work if you shoot 2 or 3 rows with the tripod head at 3 different angles, instead of one single row? would the shots still meet up neatly?
Sure... I’ve done 4 rows pano with a normal ball head... but a proper pano head will help... just make sure you overlap 30-50% both horizontal and vertical and you should be golden...
Thanks for answering!
The other thing is if you have a lens such as 18-55 NIkon (all I have), do you need to adjust for a new nodal point when you zoom in or out to a different focal length, or does it stay constant whatever the setting?
Many thanks,Jonathan
@@oli-haukur-valtysson
You are very welcome :-)
No... each lens has one nodal point, no matter the focal length
That is great news, thanks for answering.
If you are off out shooting today, I hope you get some great results!
Thanks again,Jonathan
@@oli-haukur-valtysson
Takk Óli
Verði þér að góðu vinur
Hello sir I tried a lot to do panorama. I took RAW footage but there is no option of photo merge. Am using a free version of light room. I think 5. Something. Could you please guide me.
Regards
Mabey you should update your software...
Very good video but I have to say, focus seemed off...?
When you identify the nodal point you said it is important to do it when you have something near your lens. But when you shoot outside the landscape is very far away. So when exactly do we need to know the nodal point? Thank you!
😊
Well… it’s more important if you have a strong foreground… as I explained in the video.
If you don’t have a foreground it’s less important… Then you don’t have parallax 🤠
so important..
It is :-)
These Google adds are super taxing😢 4 adds before I got to your video
This could had been at least 10 mins long instead of 20, but thanks it is useful!!
Fernando Enriquez :-)
Im just glad people find it useful... of course there is always room for improvement... but I kind of like showing a little from the area and extra stuff :-)
...cheers ;-)
OliH Photography appreciated
great video, but that backpack... it is so low on your back. That's bad for your back
Thank you... I’ll keep that in mind:-)
@@oli-haukur-valtysson I just love your videos and want your back to be great so you can make videos at 90 years old!
Just a little nitpick here but I see you forgot two important first steps in lightroom when stitching photo's.
1. Set the lens corrections on one of the images (say the first for simplistic sake) in the develop module.
2. Select all images (that you plan to stitch for the pano) back in the library view, and then sync settings.
Then you can go into step 3 which is create panorama.
meter the lightest and darkest area, and split the difference, and you may want to bracket, depending on how much shadows your particular camera can recover, then your sure sure to get even light across your pano >>>> Tak
Like always... if you have to bracket you bracket... but if you don’t... meter for the highlights = expose to the right ;-)
Surprisingly expensive - LOL. That's called RIP OFF.
Hahaha… that’s another way of putting it 😀
Thanks for the great video. I have a question I hope you can answer.
I just bought a Pan Head and "L" bracket for my Canon Rebel T3I. I have
the arca fitting with a center marking on the pan head. The center of
the "L" bracket on the camera is not marked either horizontal or
vertical and has a slot for mounting on each side. When mounting it in
landscape mode I have no trouble determining the center point because of
a mark on the camera over the mounting hole, but when trying to mount it in
the Portrait position I don't know how to determine the proper point to
put over the pivot point. Is it critical that it be directly over the
pivot point as in landscape mode and if so can you describe a way to
determine the point to be centered in the arca fitting on the head?
Thanks
Hi Norman - While you've likely figured it out by experience, YES, its critical that the nodal point is at the center of the tripod. Finding the nodal point of any lens (portrait or landscape) manually is pretty easy. You just need a flashlight in my experience.
a) mount the lens to the camera, and stop the lens down to is smallest aperture f/22, f/32..etc.
1: Manual focus lenses you will literally see the hole shrink if you look in the front of the lens. ( This is not always the case w/ AF lenses as they don't stop down to the selected . aperture until you take a picture.)
2: if using an AF lens, stop down to the smallest aperture, then hit the depth of field preview button and hold it (this manually reduces the aperture for you - on the viewfinder you'd get . an idea of what your image will actually look like because this DoFPReview is actually the process of manually stopping down the lens pre-shutter actuation.)
b) Look into the front of the lens while the lens is stopped down (again, manual focus lenses usually have the aperture ring on the outside, so it will stay stopped down until you change . the aperture; autofocus lenses, you'll have to hold down the DoF preview button to keep it stopped down while looking through the front of the lens.)
c) the tiny hole that you see - that is the Nodal point (regardless of orientation). Take note of the point and mark it on the barrel of the lens with tap, or white paint pen, or red marker.
d) now, mount that tiny point over the middle of your tripod while affixed to the Nodal Rail, and start from there. Depending on how well you marked your lens barrel, you may have hit . the nodal point perfectly without the "back and forth" searching.
hope that helps