Nice video. Well produced and informative. -- I have a T-7, so I agree on how wonderfully sharp any blade can get using the Tormek. -- With that said though, it looks like it might be more work using the SE-77 to camber a blade than using a cheap manual honing guide. -- I was wondering about how you reset the jig using the micro adjustment knobs once you loosened them? Is it easy to lock them down so that the jig is square again? -- I like your videos, so please keep up the good work. -- Cheers!
The two knobs work in concert to create an even camber on a plane blade. So you can loosen both of them a 1/4 or 1/2 turn or so. When done, tighten them both up the same amount and the jig should be back to square. If it was me, I'd double check - but I do that with my tablesaw blade every time I take it out from 90 too! It's a very easy operation and the knobs are large enough to easily keep track of turning.
I didn't watch this all the way through. So this info might be included or common sense I don't know. The angle of the blade in the plane enhances the camber quite a bit. I turned my oil knobs almost a whole turn which turned out to be waaay to much. :(
My problem with your amount of steps is that you want this whole procedure to be really fast - think if I have to sharpen blade again and again or different ones. No wonder many of woodworkers go with hand sharpening with a simple honing guide & a simple angle jig and diamond plates. (using finger pressing on alternate sides for camber). It goes much faster. I have a Tormek myself. But sometimes I find it cumbersome, fill the water, grind the wheel - rough vs smooth, and then use the jigs in a very particular way.
Seems overly complicated to me. It's easier to put a camber on with a bench stone. It only takes 5 or 10 strokes with pressure to each corner. Thanks for sharing though
With all due respect, this video is a good lesson on using the jig, but not the plane. By grinding a camber, you are producing a “scrub” plane blade. It is not designed for light cuts, but for quick removal of high spots, usually at 45 degrees to the grain. Its use is then followed by a straight grind for smoothing along the grain. The ridges produced by the straight blade were due to taking too heavy cuts. When smoothing, the finer the shavings, the better = no ridges.
Pura vida mi amigo and guys I have a question Does tormek jig fix on Wen sharpening sugtem? I have a cheap one 😅my budget is limited.pura vida
Fine demonstration. I liked how you used a hardwood instead of pine. Cherry?
why don't you check for the squareness of the blade while in the SES-77 jig using the inside of the stone ?
Very helpful thanks.
Nice video. Well produced and informative. -- I have a T-7, so I agree on how wonderfully sharp any blade can get using the Tormek. -- With that said though, it looks like it might be more work using the SE-77 to camber a blade than using a cheap manual honing guide. -- I was wondering about how you reset the jig using the micro adjustment knobs once you loosened them? Is it easy to lock them down so that the jig is square again? -- I like your videos, so please keep up the good work. -- Cheers!
The two knobs work in concert to create an even camber on a plane blade. So you can loosen both of them a 1/4 or 1/2 turn or so. When done, tighten them both up the same amount and the jig should be back to square. If it was me, I'd double check - but I do that with my tablesaw blade every time I take it out from 90 too! It's a very easy operation and the knobs are large enough to easily keep track of turning.
There are witness marks on the part that pivots. You only have to observe the marks align with each other while you tighten the knobs.
I didn't watch this all the way through. So this info might be included or common sense I don't know. The angle of the blade in the plane enhances the camber quite a bit. I turned my oil knobs almost a whole turn which turned out to be waaay to much. :(
My problem with your amount of steps is that you want this whole procedure to be really fast - think if I have to sharpen blade again and again or different ones. No wonder many of woodworkers go with hand sharpening with a simple honing guide & a simple angle jig and diamond plates. (using finger pressing on alternate sides for camber). It goes much faster. I have a Tormek myself. But sometimes I find it cumbersome, fill the water, grind the wheel - rough vs smooth, and then use the jigs in a very particular way.
Seems overly complicated to me. It's easier to put a camber on with a bench stone. It only takes 5 or 10 strokes with pressure to each corner. Thanks for sharing though
With all due respect, this video is a good lesson on using the jig, but not the plane. By grinding a camber, you are producing a “scrub” plane blade. It is not designed for light cuts, but for quick removal of high spots, usually at 45 degrees to the grain. Its use is then followed by a straight grind for smoothing along the grain. The ridges produced by the straight blade were due to taking too heavy cuts. When smoothing, the finer the shavings, the better = no ridges.
Not true, a scrub plane has a huge radius, the camber on a smoothing plane is in the thousandths
@@billlittleton7894 okay. But if the lady takes money for sex, does it really matter how much she asks? 😄
@@billlittleton7894 Ideal camber for Jacks plane .
Why do people "go ahead" and do things so often?