@@blackterminal it's ok to play music but very soft quiet like music not music playing in the same volume as like when your talking Or like the one person said revving the engine
Sir. I have watched over 8 videos with no help until i came across your video. Thank you so much. Im all about saving money but brakes are not my forte. You helped me thru this end process. THANK YOU
I watched 10 videos of this today and I’m glad I found yours! You got straight to the point with detailed instructions and you did the JOB CORRECT! Thanks Bro
I really liked your style of video and your way of showing kinda what its like for the "not as affluent" do it yourself person. The only thing I disagreed with is your order of bleeding. All cars are different and the standard with abs is furthest from the cylinder then next, etc. But there are exceptions to every rule. It's free and easy to look up your vehicle and see what the recommendation is. Safety 1st and all that. Otherwise you were spot on. You also did a great job of showing the process the air in the line, etc. You also set up your shots and then had to hold the camera so in my book your top notch. I think everyone that comes across a video like this can appreciate it immediately. Hope you are well and life's good, as I'm 2 years late to this video.
I enjoyed the video, but I’ve read several other places where one should start bleeding at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. In the case of ABS vehicles, one should start at the furthest wheel from the ABS module.
Rule of thumb is start to wheel farthest to the driver side which is the right rear wheel. But refer to ur service manual coz theyre not all the same. My car says I start at driver side front wheel.
Mine from AutoZone didn't come with directions either. They really just quit caring about little details like quality of construction and quality build.
Yes this video absolutely helped me I'm at the science center in Eugene Oregon I pulled in here cuz my brakes went straight to the floor for some reason I figured it was air in the lines so I pulled in here took the tire off and checked it Sono brake fluid anywhere I didn't have another person with me if I look on TH-cam for something helpful came across your awesome video and yes I was just about ready to do it just like you said your video thank you and I appreciate it have a good one my name is Steven
What a great video sir. I tried to bleed the brakes yesterday on a 2019 VW Tiguan . Changed rear rotors and pads . Over torqued a caliper pin and it broke off in the caliper with the threaded side stuck in the hole . So now I have a new problem. However after watching your video . I realize my own tool is defective. The needle is not moving when I squeeze the trigger at all. I put in the little o-rings on the inside of the cap before sealing it .
just replaced my strut/shocks on the rear of my Celica. bough this in anticipation of bleeding by myself. Thanks for the video, way better than the non-existent instructions that came with it.
I just inherited my dad's 03 f150 you just made my life so much easier cuz I just had to replace the master cylinder cuz it had an internal leak in the seals
Small point of correction on an otherwise awesome video. You want to bleed from farthest to nearest in respect to the master cylinder, not nearest to farthest. Resource: ASE A5 certification.
I tend to agree. Thats the way i do it. My last job, the manager swore by closest first. Ive had it work just as well both ways. Some cars/manufacturers actually do say to start closest to the master, mostly some newer cars.
Yup it will really help me, yes your so right, DIY would save you money plus the fact that your sure that doing it for your self job is really done right as any owner wanted it to be. Thanks bro. By the way, I'm from the Philippines 🇵🇭
Major respect!! Thank you for taking the time to be so helpful. The enhanced calm that you have takes the stress factor down so much! You have a new fan sir, thank you, I hope you have a great day!!!
Thanks my fellow american brother.I appriciate your trauning video good job.I had not used this bleeder kit.I have always used a secind person.usually my mother or brother.Wr had mechanic fun in our terns.disagreement on hiw to.lol.He passed at 24 years old in 99.Mom cant help these days.I just had test in my heart last two days.Your quike training regreshed my memery and how to connect the reservoir. NO instructions from the zone.Keep promotting the ametican sport by
are you telling me i had this tool for 2 months and just now figured out how to use it? thanks. i will update you when i eventually get around to bleeding them lol
I purchased the same unit you have for my Mercedes S550.... not trying to pay $350 when I can do it myself. I'll be getting to this in the morning. This looks easy enough. I'll let you know how it turns out. Awesome video...Thank you!!!
I Just Bought This Today Too For My 08 Vic Civi. Mechanic Wanted To Charge Me $265.... I Laughed All The Way To AutoZone!!! oan. I appreciate the vid BackWood! 👍
I... I'm a mechanic that charges for doing that lol! XD!!! I will say $200 is to much money for flushing a brake system, I mean the fluid is like $10 or so for DOT3-4, and the charge per hour about $60-$90 bucks depending on the shop, so honestly you shouldn't pay over $120 max, if you don't want to do it your self.
Yes if you have a Ford 150 you don't need to jack it up. But if you have a recently manufactured car most likely it will be rather low to the ground. You may have to jack it up. Also, in my experience with my 2015 Honda Fit, even though my brakes did not need bleeding, and I was simply flushing the old dirty fluid out of all the lines, my vacuum pump kept pulling air bubbles though the tubing. Eventually I realized that by cracking the bleeder valve only 1/2 a turn or even less, what may have been happening was that air was being sucked in from around the threads of the bleeder valve. Supposedly an "old mechanic's trick" is to put a little multipurpose grease around the threads. However I had trouble getting grease to that spot. The area was rather crowded with things. Also, I kind of worry that with grease around the threads, when screwing the bleeder valve back in some grease might be forced into the system. So I decided that next time I was going to look for a helper bleed the brakes using the push method rather than the pull method. That is, get someone to step on the brake pedal while I open the valve, and allow the pedal back up after I close the valve. Or I could save a few minutes by using a check-valve, a one-way valve. Auto parts stores describe these as being a "one-man bleeder tool." They really are not "one-person" bleeder tools because you can't work the brake pedal and see any air bubbles in the tubing, at the same time. However they cost practically nothing and can save a few minutes of time off of the job.
This makes more sense strat from the front going to the rear all the other videos I’ve been watching started bleeding from the rear passenger end which and then the front it will defeat the purpose of bleeding out the air in the system
Its actually better to start furthest from the master since that is the longest line holding the most air so you get more air out faster starting furthest. Ive done it both ways, they both work, but i tend to like starting furthest. By the time you get to the front, there is less air than starting closest.
A video great and great job man! You were right every other video says start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder! I've worked in auto dealerships my whole life and I've had mechanics tell me it doesn't matter what will you start with as long as you get all the air out of the lines. Again great job keep up the good work bro!
My man…. Just what I wanted to see someone doing it without taking the tires off. I think I can even reach through the wheel itself because of the spokes on my car. One question though… is it not better to start bleed at the farthest caliper because then it draws the remaining air to the ones ahead of it?
How many minutes per brake do you estimate it took you to bleed the fluid until there was no bubbles? I've had my truck for 2 years now , same year make and model as yours and just can't seem to get those bubbles out. I've checked everywhere for no leaks and I think maybe I'm not seeing that perhaps maybe it's because it's a bigger vehicle why it's taking so long for these bubbles to get out.
Awesome video you should teach classes to these TH-camrs that over complicate things. Keep up the good work an keep it simple. Oh yea whoever reads this subscribe to this man's channel. Thanks bro you rocked this video.
Only suggestion.. turkey baster, or something, to take the brake fluid out of the reservoir before starting and then fill it up past max with fresh fluid. Edit: thx for the vid, man! 2nd Edit: pissed off watching you do this, as I need to jack up and set stands on all corners for my Mazda. 😢
Great video but how does working from front to rear work any better than the traditional rear to front. Great to the point instructions. I think I'll get one on my commercial Auto Zone account
Thanks for helping to give instructions n confidence to the community. My first time seeing you and it was easy to subscribe may U be blessed to continually be a blessing. Stay prosperous!?
You Should ALWAYS!!! START From The B Lines furthes from the B. Master cyclinder. To avoid the issues like u had. NO fluid comlng out your driver side brakes system.
Idk if you still respond to people on here but here it goes…What could possibly be wrong if the vacuum pump from the bleeder kit is losing suction and bringing a little bit of fluid out of the bleeder valve while the valve is still tight?
Should use the vacuum pump to suck out the old fluid from that master cylinder before adding new fluid it will keep you from pulling so much old fluid through the lines and will save you from wasting a lot of new brake fluid
You can remove most of the master cylinder but make sure to leave enough so it doesn't take air. You'll be bench bleeding master cylinder. Pull-out what you can safely and add new oil. Good luck
@@bostonbillyduchaney5655 only if you suck out all the old fluid and pump the brakes or have a line busted there will still be fluid in the lines because of the seals on the piston in the master cylinder so no worries about getting air in the lines
Will this “vacuum” bleeder tool works on older cars that has a proportioning valve? I have a 1978 olds cutlass that has a proportioning valve and I tried using those “pressure” bleeding tool and brake fluid wasn’t streaming out of the rear wheel cylinder.
There's a difference between pressure bleeding and vacuum bleeding. Pressure bleeding you are actually pushing the air through the line and out the master cylinder. Vacuum bleeding you are pulling the out the line through the bleeder. With a pressure bleeder, you have to have a container full of fluid so it pushes the fluid into the bleeder and the air out the master. Both ways you always want to have full fluid because if you run the fluid down you start getting air in the system and have to start over. You can also gravity bleed. Just keep the master full, crack the bleeder, and let the fluid run out until theres no more air and all clear/new fluid, then close the bleeder. No air enters the system unless you run the master dry, or press then release the brake pedal w the bleeder open. You can press the pedal down w the bleeder open, but you can not release the pedal until the bleeder is closed or it will suck air. But thats only if you're doing the 2 person way, which actually does work best because it forces the air out with much more pressure.
I was doing it all wrong i sucked some into the pump the first time second time couldnt find the o ring to seal collections cup thus no suckie suckie guess its warranty time unless you know where i can get that special o ring
In your opinion. Do you think you would use this if you had a kid that needed some extra chores, or would you put the kid to work? It seems to be a bit better at evacuating the air while not going through as much brake fluid. Or maybe there was just a lot of air in the truck’s brake lines. Great Chanel BTW.
This might seem a dumb question but I have put lots of air in my slave cylinder clutch line.. will this suck out the air I was silly enough to put in the line?
Hey buddy had a question I’m running into problems I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6 L 4 x 4 and I bled the brakes system put new oil & seals on the brake calipers and drum brake pistons put a new brake master cylinder and brake booster and tested the ABS module by sticking a stick in the little hole and pressing on the brake and it does not move the stick supposedly that sign is good but my brakes are still spongy meaning it sinks in half way And driving at 25 miles an hour residence I stepped hard on the brakes and it takes about 1.5 or 2 seconds to come to a stop but I want my brakes to bite on the rotors and it’s not doing that is this normal or do I need to plug a scanner so it could auto bleed mode to complete the service so it could break hard? I heard this from a GMC Tech veteran who said that I might need to hook up scanner just like the GMC trucks. I hope u can help with good info. I want my truck To leave tread marks on the ground when I slam the brakes hard I want my brace to bite the rotors just like my Mazda 2002 but I don’t know where ABS is the Design to not do this.
I tried this with this same tool and it's constant bubbles. Having me wondering if air is getting into the bleeder screw threads. I was losing daylight fast so didn't have much time on it. Will try again tomorrow but very discouraged right now.
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A true shade tree mechanic, no safety glasses, no gloves. I just bled brakes on my Ford E150 with the same tool. Thanks
Really good video! No B.S., no obnoxious music, no reving engine sounds, just great instructions.
Instruction on how to be a idiot
REV UP YOUR ENGINEEEEEEES!
NO ride a donkey like Jesus
Yes I dislike the music too. I heard it increases views but gaaa it's annoying.
@@blackterminal it's ok to play music but very soft quiet like music not music playing in the same volume as like when your talking
Or like the one person said revving the engine
Sir. I have watched over 8 videos with no help until i came across your video. Thank you so much. Im all about saving money but brakes are not my forte. You helped me thru this end process. THANK YOU
That's the kind of videos we need. Direct to the point no b... sh...t. thank you so much.
I watched 10 videos of this today and I’m glad I found yours! You got straight to the point with detailed instructions and you did the JOB CORRECT! Thanks Bro
THANK YOU FOR TAKING YOUR TIME TO HELP EVERYONE , INCLUDING MYSELF . CLEAR -STRIAGHT TO THE POINT-BEST DIY BRAKE BLEDDER VIDEO ONLINE.
I really liked your style of video and your way of showing kinda what its like for the "not as affluent" do it yourself person. The only thing I disagreed with is your order of bleeding. All cars are different and the standard with abs is furthest from the cylinder then next, etc. But there are exceptions to every rule. It's free and easy to look up your vehicle and see what the recommendation is. Safety 1st and all that. Otherwise you were spot on. You also did a great job of showing the process the air in the line, etc. You also set up your shots and then had to hold the camera so in my book your top notch. I think everyone that comes across a video like this can appreciate it immediately. Hope you are well and life's good, as I'm 2 years late to this video.
I enjoyed the video, but I’ve read several other places where one should start bleeding at the furthest wheel from the master cylinder. In the case of ABS vehicles, one should start at the furthest wheel from the ABS module.
Rule of thumb is start to wheel farthest to the driver side which is the right rear wheel. But refer to ur service manual coz theyre not all the same. My car says I start at driver side front wheel.
Straight to the point! Clear, brief, and concise explanations on each step in the process. Superb instructional delivery. Way to go!
This guy‘s a great teacher.
Thank you. I purchased that same bleeding kit and could not find the instructions for using it. Your video made it very clear.
Mine from AutoZone didn't come with directions either. They really just quit caring about little details like quality of construction and quality build.
Same here...no instructions with the pump!!!😠😠😠
How the hell you put the seals on the lid
I second that notion
@@thomaselam2532 the rubber o ring actually sits on the top of the clear reservoir cup in a groove. Not in the lid.
From a back woodsman, in Scotland. To a back woodsman in the US. Thanks for the video.
Yes this video absolutely helped me I'm at the science center in Eugene Oregon I pulled in here cuz my brakes went straight to the floor for some reason I figured it was air in the lines so I pulled in here took the tire off and checked it Sono brake fluid anywhere I didn't have another person with me if I look on TH-cam for something helpful came across your awesome video and yes I was just about ready to do it just like you said your video thank you and I appreciate it have a good one my name is Steven
What a great video sir.
I tried to bleed the brakes yesterday on a 2019 VW Tiguan . Changed rear rotors and pads . Over torqued a caliper pin and it broke off in the caliper with the threaded side stuck in the hole . So now I have a new problem.
However after watching your video .
I realize my own tool is defective. The needle is not moving when I squeeze the trigger at all. I put in the little o-rings on the inside of the cap before sealing it .
just replaced my strut/shocks on the rear of my Celica. bough this in anticipation of bleeding by myself. Thanks for the video, way better than the non-existent instructions that came with it.
Great video with no BS, I need to see a video showing how to bleed a abs system after replacing a broken line without using a scanner tool. Thanks
I just inherited my dad's 03 f150 you just made my life so much easier cuz I just had to replace the master cylinder cuz it had an internal leak in the seals
Great video! I like how you did it without removing the wheels.
You're video is still helping people, like me, learn how to bleed those brakes. Thanks for the video!!!
Small point of correction on an otherwise awesome video.
You want to bleed from farthest to nearest in respect to the master cylinder, not nearest to farthest.
Resource: ASE A5 certification.
I tend to agree. Thats the way i do it. My last job, the manager swore by closest first. Ive had it work just as well both ways. Some cars/manufacturers actually do say to start closest to the master, mostly some newer cars.
Yes! Different strokes for diffent folks i like learning different techs techniques and incorporating them into my work style
I like to hold the vinyl tube up right after leaving the bleeder, you see the bubbles coming out very well.
Keep up promoting the American spirit to be indepent being self reliant on each other take care of our own.Thank Sir.
Yup it will really help me, yes your so right, DIY would save you money plus the fact that your sure that doing it for your self job is really done right as any owner wanted it to be. Thanks bro. By the way, I'm from the Philippines 🇵🇭
Major respect!! Thank you for taking the time to be so helpful. The enhanced calm that you have takes the stress factor down so much! You have a new fan sir, thank you, I hope you have a great day!!!
Great job of bleeding the brakes and demonstrating the brake bleeding tool.
Thanks my fellow american brother.I appriciate your trauning video good job.I had not used this bleeder kit.I have always used a secind person.usually my mother or brother.Wr had mechanic fun in our terns.disagreement on hiw to.lol.He passed at 24 years old in 99.Mom cant help these days.I just had test in my heart last two days.Your quike training regreshed my memery and how to connect the reservoir. NO instructions from the zone.Keep promotting the ametican sport by
I always spray bleeder valves with penetrating fluid before trying to loosen. Broke off a few before.
Thank you for explaining it the simplest way possible very good explanation going to give it a shot !
are you telling me i had this tool for 2 months and just now figured out how to use it? thanks. i will update you when i eventually get around to bleeding them lol
Good clear instructions, advice, and video. Nice work
Looking to do my 2001 f150. If more people are videos like this DIY would be easier
You have THE BEST video of all that I've watched.
From a US Marine do-it- yourselfer...
Semper Fi!
Thank you for being realistic.
Great video this is what I need to do with my truck thanks
I purchased the same unit you have for my Mercedes S550.... not trying to pay $350 when I can do it myself. I'll be getting to this in the morning. This looks easy enough. I'll let you know how it turns out. Awesome video...Thank you!!!
I Just Bought This Today Too For My 08 Vic Civi. Mechanic Wanted To Charge Me $265.... I Laughed All The Way To AutoZone!!!
oan. I appreciate the vid BackWood! 👍
Bought it...used it...Laughed at the techs at Mercedes!!! Saved myself almost $400!!!
I... I'm a mechanic that charges for doing that lol! XD!!! I will say $200 is to much money for flushing a brake system, I mean the fluid is like $10 or so for DOT3-4, and the charge per hour about $60-$90 bucks depending on the shop, so honestly you shouldn't pay over $120 max, if you don't want to do it your self.
@@josefelix4152 hola amigo! ¿Entonces si conviene comprar este kit para trabajos de mecánica móbiles?
@@mtsanchez27 si amigo !!
I've always been able to bleed brakes by myself, with a glass bottle or jar and a length of clear plastic tubing. Never owned a vacuum pump.
Great video brother 👊
Watching here from new York city
9:37 Use Fluid Film to coat your rusty metal bits.
The Backwoods Mechanic is my co-pilot.
Yes if you have a Ford 150 you don't need to jack it up. But if you have a recently manufactured car most likely it will be rather low to the ground. You may have to jack it up. Also, in my experience with my 2015 Honda Fit, even though my brakes did not need bleeding, and I was simply flushing the old dirty fluid out of all the lines, my vacuum pump kept pulling air bubbles though the tubing. Eventually I realized that by cracking the bleeder valve only 1/2 a turn or even less, what may have been happening was that air was being sucked in from around the threads of the bleeder valve. Supposedly an "old mechanic's trick" is to put a little multipurpose grease around the threads. However I had trouble getting grease to that spot. The area was rather crowded with things. Also, I kind of worry that with grease around the threads, when screwing the bleeder valve back in some grease might be forced into the system. So I decided that next time I was going to look for a helper bleed the brakes using the push method rather than the pull method. That is, get someone to step on the brake pedal while I open the valve, and allow the pedal back up after I close the valve. Or I could save a few minutes by using a check-valve, a one-way valve. Auto parts stores describe these as being a "one-man bleeder tool." They really are not "one-person" bleeder tools because you can't work the brake pedal and see any air bubbles in the tubing, at the same time. However they cost practically nothing and can save a few minutes of time off of the job.
This makes more sense strat from the front going to the rear all the other videos I’ve been watching started bleeding from the rear passenger end which and then the front it will defeat the purpose of bleeding out the air in the system
I think it depends on if you pump the brakes or use the Vac kit.
Its actually better to start furthest from the master since that is the longest line holding the most air so you get more air out faster starting furthest. Ive done it both ways, they both work, but i tend to like starting furthest. By the time you get to the front, there is less air than starting closest.
A video great and great job man!
You were right every other video says start with the caliper farthest away from the master cylinder!
I've worked in auto dealerships my whole life and I've had mechanics tell me it doesn't matter what will you start with as long as you get all the air out of the lines.
Again great job keep up the good work bro!
Thanks a million for your help.
Very well explained.
If you're in Ireland I would buy you a beer 🍻
Thanks you are the best
thank you very much im going to try this today and i will let you know how it went
Great demo brother. I like your style with doing things as a “regular guy”. Now subscribed. 🇨🇦👍🏼
Thank you Sir
I appreciate your clear instructions plus your steady camera skills lol
Make repairs great again!
Great video. Simple step by step instructions. Cant wait to do mine. Thank u sir.
nice, simple, easy to follow. thank you
Great video
Do I need to close the cap of my master cylinder reservoir while doing this it has to be open ?
He said crystal clear
Very nice video Señor nice views and iam agree no crazy noise.
That's a real average dude right there..no fancy business..thanks Lad
My man…. Just what I wanted to see someone doing it without taking the tires off. I think I can even reach through the wheel itself because of the spokes on my car. One question though… is it not better to start bleed at the farthest caliper because then it draws the remaining air to the ones ahead of it?
This video saved my a$$, thank you very much!
You gotta bleed the far right passenger side first, then the left driver side second, then the passenger driver side third, then the driver side.
clear video i like it , good job
How many minutes per brake do you estimate it took you to bleed the fluid until there was no bubbles? I've had my truck for 2 years now , same year make and model as yours and just can't seem to get those bubbles out. I've checked everywhere for no leaks and I think maybe I'm not seeing that perhaps maybe it's because it's a bigger vehicle why it's taking so long for these bubbles to get out.
Just found your channel great video great job Thank you 👍💪
Awesome video you should teach classes to these TH-camrs that over complicate things. Keep up the good work an keep it simple. Oh yea whoever reads this subscribe to this man's channel. Thanks bro you rocked this video.
Great video, priceless advice. Thanks for the upload.
I should download the instructions
those bubbles is what i came to see
thanks for the info and tip. I just order the brake bleeder
Only suggestion.. turkey baster, or something, to take the brake fluid out of the reservoir before starting and then fill it up past max with fresh fluid. Edit: thx for the vid, man! 2nd Edit: pissed off watching you do this, as I need to jack up and set stands on all corners for my Mazda. 😢
Great video but how does working from front to rear work any better than the traditional rear to front. Great to the point instructions. I think I'll get one on my commercial Auto Zone account
Thank you!
Great and simple video. Thanks man!
Thanks for helping to give instructions n confidence to the community. My first time seeing you and it was easy to subscribe may U be blessed to continually be a blessing. Stay prosperous!?
You Should ALWAYS!!! START From The B Lines furthes from the B. Master cyclinder. To avoid the issues like u had. NO fluid comlng out your driver side brakes system.
Idk if you still respond to people on here but here it goes…What could possibly be wrong if the vacuum pump from the bleeder kit is losing suction and bringing a little bit of fluid out of the bleeder valve while the valve is still tight?
Really good video!! On my way to Auto Zone to get this kit shortly. I have the same exact truck too so this video really helped me out!! Thank you!👍
Should use the vacuum pump to suck out the old fluid from that master cylinder before adding new fluid it will keep you from pulling so much old fluid through the lines and will save you from wasting a lot of new brake fluid
You can remove most of the master cylinder but make sure to leave enough so it doesn't take air. You'll be bench bleeding master cylinder. Pull-out what you can safely and add new oil.
Good luck
@@bostonbillyduchaney5655 only if you suck out all the old fluid and pump the brakes or have a line busted there will still be fluid in the lines because of the seals on the piston in the master cylinder so no worries about getting air in the lines
Awesome video I think this will help me thank you
Will this “vacuum” bleeder tool works on older cars that has a proportioning valve? I have a 1978 olds cutlass that has a proportioning valve and I tried using those “pressure” bleeding tool and brake fluid wasn’t streaming out of the rear wheel cylinder.
There's a difference between pressure bleeding and vacuum bleeding. Pressure bleeding you are actually pushing the air through the line and out the master cylinder. Vacuum bleeding you are pulling the out the line through the bleeder. With a pressure bleeder, you have to have a container full of fluid so it pushes the fluid into the bleeder and the air out the master. Both ways you always want to have full fluid because if you run the fluid down you start getting air in the system and have to start over. You can also gravity bleed. Just keep the master full, crack the bleeder, and let the fluid run out until theres no more air and all clear/new fluid, then close the bleeder. No air enters the system unless you run the master dry, or press then release the brake pedal w the bleeder open. You can press the pedal down w the bleeder open, but you can not release the pedal until the bleeder is closed or it will suck air. But thats only if you're doing the 2 person way, which actually does work best because it forces the air out with much more pressure.
Very Nice !!!!!
thks you man!great mentality !keep up the good work and video!
Thanks hell yeah brother keep up with videos
Sometimes the bleeder valve uses a 3/8 hex, sometimes a 10 mm.
Story of my life when you need a 10mm it’s not there.
My car uses 11mm or 7/16
Great video
I was doing it all wrong i sucked some into the pump the first time second time couldnt find the o ring to seal collections cup thus no suckie suckie guess its warranty time unless you know where i can get that special o ring
Good simple video!
that's a very good video. i prefer to use a 6 point wrench on my bleeder screws though.
Love your video thank you I helped a lot
Thank you. Nicely informative.
Perfect video 👍🏽
Is the vacuum pump able to pull air out of a master cylinder (if there was air on it), or does it just pull air from the lines and wheel cylinders?
🎉❤ awesome!
In your opinion. Do you think you would use this if you had a kid that needed some extra chores, or would you put the kid to work? It seems to be a bit better at evacuating the air while not going through as much brake fluid. Or maybe there was just a lot of air in the truck’s brake lines. Great Chanel BTW.
This might seem a dumb question but I have put lots of air in my slave cylinder clutch line.. will this suck out the air I was silly enough to put in the line?
Nice video bro 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The brake fluid saturated tools on the paint is bad practice idk if it's been used if so naughty
Thank you.
Good job appreciate it.
Hey buddy had a question I’m running into problems I have a 1997 F150 XLT 4.6 L 4 x 4 and I bled the brakes system put new oil & seals on the brake calipers and drum brake pistons put a new brake master cylinder and brake booster and tested the ABS module by sticking a stick in the little hole and pressing on the brake and it does not move the stick supposedly that sign is good but my brakes are still spongy meaning it sinks in half way And driving at 25 miles an hour residence I stepped hard on the brakes and it takes about 1.5 or 2 seconds to come to a stop but I want my brakes to bite on the rotors and it’s not doing that is this normal or do I need to plug a scanner so it could auto bleed mode to complete the service so it could break hard? I heard this from a GMC Tech veteran who said that I might need to hook up scanner just like the GMC trucks. I hope u can help with good info. I want my truck To leave tread marks on the ground when I slam the brakes hard I want my brace to bite the rotors just like my Mazda 2002 but I don’t know where ABS is the Design to not do this.
I tried this with this same tool and it's constant bubbles. Having me wondering if air is getting into the bleeder screw threads. I was losing daylight fast so didn't have much time on it. Will try again tomorrow but very discouraged right now.
Most likely, the bleeder screw is bad.
Does this need to be done with it the vehicle on or off
good video Sir