Glad to hear you got those header bolts out in the end! Must have taken a few hours and several mugs of contemplative coffee - tenacity wins in the end. Superb paint job too 👏
The work is looking very good , the paint job is very nice and you’re cracking on with it I think. I had problems removing my bandit headers, I snapped some bolts off then snapped an easy out so I had to get the rest spark eroded out at work… My bandit is the same as yours, colour etc, the engine will be sweet in your GSXR chassis.
Another excellent video. I am always impressed with your perseverance. Clearly you have self trained yourself to be a very capable spray painter so there is no reason why a little practice you can't develop enough basic weld skills needed for this type of repair. Visual appearance is not important only strength with this. Clearly access in this case is a major issue. Maybe you could have drilled out a nut so that it just slides over the cap head and then weld in the centre as weld "blobs" on the outside might foul on the header.
I can not wait for the next video. What a great series. I did a semi restoration about 12 years ago on my 86 GSXR. No way as bad as this one, but i can relate to certain problems.
A good tip for getting out stripped Allen head bolts, put some valve grinding paste in the hex shaped hole, and then that will make the Allen key grip and that will help in getting them out, also PLENTY of heat at the point where the threads are in the cylinder head.
Thanks again, Yea, I’ve done that before, these were so stripped and seized, it took A LOT to get these out. You will see in the next video how bad they were, And what it too to remove them…Never seen manifold bolts seized so badly
Cheers ! I’m about 4 weeks ahead of what you are seeing at the moment. I’m trying to get some content staged now because I get busy with the farm work in the spring and summer
Hi Ralph, Unfortunately the Frame also bolts together in front of cyl 1 and 2 and you cannot remove the frame bolts without the header removed. I got it all out in the end though
It’s all off now, cheers, I’m ahead of the video in real life here, I appreciate the comment There are actually bolts holding the removable frame that are captive behind header 2, so headers come off before the frame comes off Removable dream isn’t just a right side “down tube”. There is also a cross tube that runs to the left side, it’s that cross tube part that has its bolts behind header 2.
Hi there, there’s not much resale value in the frame and title , you could cut the front frame tubes off for better access, good luck. I spent about 10 hours getting my studs out 👍🏻
Why not just use the 750 wiring harness, it will plug straight into everything on the 1200 engine? Don't worry about the TPS on the carbs cause I'm pretty sure it does nothing anyway. People say it retards ignition on wide throttle openings in lower gears but given they don't have a gear position sensor, it sounds like horse 5hit to me.
Thanks for the comment , 3 reasons to use the bandit 1200 harness 1. The 750 harness isn’t in good shape and I know the 1200 harness works 2 I’m told the GSXR CDI doesn’t work with the longer stroke 1200 properly 3. The switch gear and other electrics on the GSXR are not in good shape, so going all Bandit seems a more reliable way to go. Some of the connectors are the same some are not Thanks for the comment
@@true-moto-resto CDI will work fine, rev limit was relatively low on the early 750's. Just swap the timing plate, pickups and trigger from the 750. fyi the >89 1100R's had a 12K limiter and apart from cast pistons in the bandit, everything else is very similar to these engines. Location of some main loom components could be a pain in the ar5e if you go bandit. Cheers.
Glad to hear you got those header bolts out in the end! Must have taken a few hours and several mugs of contemplative coffee - tenacity wins in the end. Superb paint job too 👏
The work is looking very good , the paint job is very nice and you’re cracking on with it I think.
I had problems removing my bandit headers, I snapped some bolts off then snapped an easy out so I had to get the rest spark eroded out at work…
My bandit is the same as yours, colour etc, the engine will be sweet in your GSXR chassis.
Thanks 👍. Cheers Ian, thanks for commenting
yet another great video, keep them coming!
Thanks, will do!
Another excellent video. I am always impressed with your perseverance. Clearly you have self trained yourself to be a very capable spray painter so there is no reason why a little practice you can't develop enough basic weld skills needed for this type of repair. Visual appearance is not important only strength with this. Clearly access in this case is a major issue. Maybe you could have drilled out a nut so that it just slides over the cap head and then weld in the centre as weld "blobs" on the outside might foul on the header.
Thanks ! You will see in the next video how I got the header bolts out. Thanks for commenting Kevin
I can not wait for the next video. What a great series. I did a semi restoration about 12 years ago on my 86 GSXR. No way as bad as this one, but i can relate to certain problems.
Thanks James, part 14 is already posted, and part 15 drops tomorrow morning ! Thanks for commenting !!
Great work.
Love the perseverance
👍👍
Thanks 👍
Excellent tutoriage excellent job 😎👍
Thank you! Cheers!
put a nut on the bolt head, and fill the inside of the nut with weld. works a treat
Stay tuned for the next video, you’ll see how I did it, cheers ! Thanks for watching
A good tip for getting out stripped Allen head bolts, put some valve grinding paste in the hex shaped hole, and then that will make the Allen key grip and that will help in getting them out, also PLENTY of heat at the point where the threads are in the cylinder head.
Thanks again, Yea, I’ve done that before, these were so stripped and seized, it took A LOT to get these out. You will see in the next video how bad they were, And what it too to remove them…Never seen manifold bolts seized so badly
@@true-moto-resto eagerly awaiting the next video in this series. The paintwork looks incredible by the way, 😎😎.
Cheers ! I’m about 4 weeks ahead of what you are seeing at the moment. I’m trying to get some content staged now because I get busy with the farm work in the spring and summer
You could unbolt the removable part of the frame for easy access to cylinders 3+4.
Hi Ralph, Unfortunately the Frame also bolts together in front of cyl 1 and 2 and you cannot remove the frame bolts without the header removed. I got it all out in the end though
Remove the frame section with the Allen bolts to improve your access to the header bolts.
It’s all off now, cheers, I’m ahead of the video in real life here, I appreciate the comment
There are actually bolts holding the removable frame that are captive behind header 2, so headers come off before the frame comes off
Removable dream isn’t just a right side “down tube”. There is also a cross tube that runs to the left side, it’s that cross tube part that has its bolts behind header 2.
Never straight forwards, I’ll be following in your footsteps with a CBX 750 F, no doubt I’ll be referring to your footage, thanks 👍
Great stuff as always. You should have 10 times the subscribers you currently do. I'll do my part to spread the word...👍
Thank you Sir, much appreciated !!
Hi there, there’s not much resale value in the frame and title , you could cut the front frame tubes off for better access, good luck. I spent about 10 hours getting my studs out 👍🏻
I got them off, You will see in the next video, but yea, cutting the frame did cross my mind. Thanks for commenting
Im no drip under pressure get help with exhaust that could get pear shaped enjoy your video learning so much
Masterpiece video! Regards from Sweden
Awesome, thank you!
Why not just use the 750 wiring harness, it will plug straight into everything on the 1200 engine? Don't worry about the TPS on the carbs cause I'm pretty sure it does nothing anyway. People say it retards ignition on wide throttle openings in lower gears but given they don't have a gear position sensor, it sounds like horse 5hit to me.
Thanks for the comment , 3 reasons to use the bandit 1200 harness
1. The 750 harness isn’t in good shape and I know the 1200 harness works
2 I’m told the GSXR CDI doesn’t work with the longer stroke 1200 properly
3. The switch gear and other electrics on the GSXR are not in good shape, so going all Bandit seems a more reliable way to go. Some of the connectors are the same some are not
Thanks for the comment
@@true-moto-resto CDI will work fine, rev limit was relatively low on the early 750's. Just swap the timing plate, pickups and trigger from the 750.
fyi the >89 1100R's had a 12K limiter and apart from cast pistons in the bandit, everything else is very similar to these engines. Location of some main loom components could be a pain in the ar5e if you go bandit.
Cheers.
yea the GSXR loom is in bad shape, the GSXR never ran whiling owned it, I could be changing electrical issues for a long time with that
You talk too much man
Thank you so much !