I bought a 1971 Buick Electra this winter. Every one of the studs that the door clamps to had the plastic either broken off or very little bit of the original left. Every time I would get in and out of each of the doors I would have to either slam tight or have it half bounce back out. Ended up getting some electrical tape which fit perfectly between the 2 wider diameters of the stud. I wrapped it around and around and around in the middle until it was maybe a third of a centimeter short of the diameter of the end of the stud. All four doors now latch with ease.
Doesn’t the passenger switch need to be plugged in for the master switch to work the window? Anywho, I came across this video and thank you for sharing it with me. For the life of me I couldn’t find any video that shows how to put the door panel back on. I just got finished with a complete redo of the interior of a 1974 LeSabre vert and couldn’t remember how the upper and lower panels mated since I wrapped the lower panels in vinyl and just mimicked the uppers with new vinyl and 1/4 headliner cushion. Thanks again
Don't those get their alternating power/ground through the switches? -- Plug that temp switch back in and then try the master switch, before shelling out $$$ for a new master
@@antiqueautomotiveservice Just found an actual schematic for something close finally - looks like you're correct (not that there was any actual doubt there LOL)
I bought a 1971 Buick Electra this winter. Every one of the studs that the door clamps to had the plastic either broken off or very little bit of the original left. Every time I would get in and out of each of the doors I would have to either slam tight or have it half bounce back out. Ended up getting some electrical tape which fit perfectly between the 2 wider diameters of the stud. I wrapped it around and around and around in the middle until it was maybe a third of a centimeter short of the diameter of the end of the stud. All four doors now latch with ease.
73 up A bodies have these 2 piece door panels as well Adam.
Doesn’t the passenger switch need to be plugged in for the master switch to work the window?
Anywho, I came across this video and thank you for sharing it with me. For the life of me I couldn’t find any video that shows how to put the door panel back on. I just got finished with a complete redo of the interior of a 1974 LeSabre vert and couldn’t remember how the upper and lower panels mated since I wrapped the lower panels in vinyl and just mimicked the uppers with new vinyl and 1/4 headliner cushion. Thanks again
I don't think so. There should be full power to the red wire at each of the 4 switches no matter whether the master switch is in or not.
nice work Adam
Simon!
Don't those get their alternating power/ground through the switches? -- Plug that temp switch back in and then try the master switch, before shelling out $$$ for a new master
Ground comes from the door itself. It's grounded through the motor body.
@@antiqueautomotiveservice Just found an actual schematic for something close finally - looks like you're correct (not that there was any actual doubt there LOL)
Sagging doors were somewhat common in these cars.
Totally.
The Centurion replaced the Wildcat in 1971.
Correct, and it lasted 3 years before disappearing from the lineup.
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