I just got my 3018 yesterday, so i only discovered your channel today. This is one use i had in mind for my 3018: to make a larger cnc for larger projects and keep the 3018 for smaller ones. I have mad respect for the process: showing us your mistakes and workarounds is worth as much to me as showing the parts that went as planned. You got a new sub for that as much as anything else you showed me. 👍 I'll be binge watching your other videos for the next week or so as i set up my new tool. Please keep up the good work. 😊 I did have a suggestion for the one hour mark, where you made trapped nuts, sandwiched between the plywood layers though (i have only gotten this far, so you may well address this later in the video. If so, ignore this): Drill the original base board like you did,but hammer T-nuts into the bottom of that board. It'll save you the height of the second plywood base plate, and the T-nuts won't spin like trapped nuts do if there's any resistance to the threads of the bolt. Other than that, i like your ideas. Especially using plywood to build the OG frame: I'm assuming one of your first projects with the new, larger cnc will be to cut out some aluminum brackets to replace the plywood brackets. I like ply for temporary use, but any moisture in your workshop and the ply loses some of its good properties: okay for a house, as its only tolerance is 1/4" or so,but for a precision cnc machine, i like as close to zero tolerance as i can get. 😊👌
Yes, absolutely, not much different. Only need to change the depth of cut in fusion 360. I'm finishing the machine with aluminum bracket and also improve the design at the same time. Are you intended to make the same machine? If that's thes case, let me know what type of material you have access to? Linear rails and ballscrews especially. I'm intending to publish the design with all sbr20 rails and sfu1204.
@@minhsmancave9448 I'm happy to just copy your design fully. I just have some scrap 18mm left over from a large sandblaster I made. I have just ordered a 3018 BTW. So looking forward to more from this:)
Thank you for your videos, you have inspired me to build and upgrade my 3018. I am just looking to cut hardwood at a non glacial pace, as well as some simple aluminium fixings for shop jigs etc.I am hoping once fully upgraded to aluminium it will be able to breeze through hardwood, so simple bowls don't take 6+ hours of pocket clearing, as they currently do. Can I ask why you use SBR rails over MGN?
Building a 4th axis or even 5th axis is not difficult. But to be able to use it, I'll have to buy the full version of fusion 360. I just don't have the budget for it right now and also haven't found the need for the extra axis yet.
Hi! I really enjoy watching your videos and the same time learn from it! I am wondering if you could show us how you cut acrylic sheets, what bit to use, ideal speed rate, etc. I intend to buy a 3018 cnc too and i want to cut small letters (about 1”-1-1/2”tall) from acrylic sheets about 3mm-6mm thick. Please teach!
@@minhsmancave9448 please show us how you do it🙏. Can the bit you are recommending to use cut the “inside right corners” of the letters using acrylic sheets(3mm thick or thicker). You don’t have to do right away what i am begging you to do but i am asking you to give it some time. Thank you!
Right, I actually forgot to mention at the end of the video. It was about $650. It's not the cheapest for milling aluminum but it's the potential to upgrade everything else later for steel milling. I estimate to be able to mill steel for under $1200
@@thebeststooge 3D printing slicer has a fixed nozzle size and there's no backlash from cutting force, which makes it easier for the path to be universal. While milling will depend on the machine itself. You have to know how good is your machine, and what type of bits you have to decide what type of cutting parameters to use. I'm sure an industrial CNC mill machine can have that type of feature since the stiffness, precision, and cutting bits are all the top along with an automatic tool changing system. For hobbyist users, you just have to practice.
@@minhsmancave9448 It can be done at the consumer level as well. Every single 3d printer slicer I have seen I can change parameters from nozzle size to speeds, feeds, even backlash compensation is a thing now. With AI, and as advanced as current slicers are I see no reason we can't do it. Tweak as needed but the grunt work could very well be a one button solution.
Backlash on milling is way more complicated than 3d printing. The library for each material and backlash for each type of bit is huge that will require a huge amount of research. along with the quality of each machine is different. It could be done but can people afford it? I can't even afford full version of fusion 360 right now, especially considering using the software on a cheap machine like 3018. The price for that type of software won't be anywhere near the ranges that you and I can afford.
I don't blame you for not watching through the video and skip the parts where I said this machine is not complete and still a few steps away from final version. The video is long
Hi Minh! Glad you're back. th-cam.com/video/FA96XR0jfPo/w-d-xo.html is definitely a awesome CNC, well designed, sturdy, powerful. This new 3018-based CNC is pretty well designed too despite its size. The outputs are great. Can't wait the next step. (FR) Salut Minh! Comment vas-tu l'ami? Je soupçonnais que tu préparais de nouveaux designs mais j'ignorais si ce serait sur les aquariums ou sur les CNC. Content de te revoir. En tout cas, tu n'es pas du genre à vouloir poster des videos régulièrement comme certains reviewers. Tu es plus libre et tu ne cours pas après le fric apparemment😉. C'est heureux que toute la famille ait traversé la crise covid. En attendant la suite de cette "dream DIY CNC", porte-toi bien l'ami. Merci pour ta pédagogie toujours efficace. 1h20 ça passe vite.
Salut mon ami!!! ca fait bien long temps, bien c'est de ma part. Je n'avais pas bcp de temps pour poster les nouveaux videos. J'ai passe pas mal de temps pour developer le filtre pour les aquariums et finalement je pense d'avoir un design qui peut etre commercialise. Donc, je suis dans le proces d'ouvrir ma compagnie et travailler avec un partenaire pour mettre le filtre sur le marche. Partager mes design des machines CNC c'est un hobby pour moi, l'argent je gagne des pubs sont assez pour acheter de nouveaux materiaux pour construire d'autre machines comme celui que je suis en train de finir. Ce machine est plus grand mais je peux sentir qu'il est plus stable. J'espere de savoir les resultats dans une ou deux semaines quand je commence a couper de l'acier. J'espere que tout vas bien aussi chez toi avec le Covid? personne dans ma famille n'en a pas encore attrape jusqu'a maintenant, donc, pas de probleme.
You should just build a c type machine, this design is neither stiff nor practical. Just get a big steel square tube, optionally fill it with sand and epoxy to reduce vibrations, bolt the router assembly at the top and place the x-y table underneath.
@@minhsmancave9448 stiffnes is a rabbit hole, how precise do you need things to be, are you making shop things or jet engines? for me extruded aluminum is more than enough I just hate the friction nuts as they do slip a little over time
There's pros and cons with those nuts. I like those because they give me lots of flexibility when assemble things together. And of course they slip with long term use, especially with plywood brackets. Hopefully with aluminum brackets, I can tighten them a bit more. And same for me, aluminum extrusions are enough for me since I only need the tolerance in the ranges of fitting the bolts through the holes, not pistons in cylinders precision.
Right now, I'm aiming for convenient and easy build and not looking for extreme precision. One day when I get more skill to deal with steel and concrete, I'll build better machine.
I just got my 3018 yesterday, so i only discovered your channel today.
This is one use i had in mind for my 3018: to make a larger cnc for larger projects and keep the 3018 for smaller ones.
I have mad respect for the process: showing us your mistakes and workarounds is worth as much to me as showing the parts that went as planned.
You got a new sub for that as much as anything else you showed me. 👍
I'll be binge watching your other videos for the next week or so as i set up my new tool.
Please keep up the good work. 😊
I did have a suggestion for the one hour mark, where you made trapped nuts, sandwiched between the plywood layers though (i have only gotten this far, so you may well address this later in the video. If so, ignore this):
Drill the original base board like you did,but hammer T-nuts into the bottom of that board. It'll save you the height of the second plywood base plate, and the T-nuts won't spin like trapped nuts do if there's any resistance to the threads of the bolt.
Other than that, i like your ideas. Especially using plywood to build the OG frame: I'm assuming one of your first projects with the new, larger cnc will be to cut out some aluminum brackets to replace the plywood brackets. I like ply for temporary use, but any moisture in your workshop and the ply loses some of its good properties: okay for a house, as its only tolerance is 1/4" or so,but for a precision cnc machine, i like as close to zero tolerance as i can get. 😊👌
Got a 3018 last week, was Thinking about using it to make a bigger machine, thanks for inspiring me.
This is my favorite channel on youtube. Thank you for uploading, I'm always glad to see more of your milling and to hear about the aquaponics.
Thank you for watching. I'm glad that you like what I like to do
I'm glad to see you back again!
Hopefully I will have time to post more projects. Didn't know that Hobbits also like cnc hobby 🤔
Those square blocks are a pretty good idea.👍👍👍
You are an absolute legend mate 👍
Thank you for watching my friend! Just tried to make the best out of little money
@@minhsmancave9448 Can't wait for the next one. 👍👍👍
@@minhsmancave9448 I have access to 18mm plywood. I'm assuming that would be OK?
Yes, absolutely, not much different. Only need to change the depth of cut in fusion 360. I'm finishing the machine with aluminum bracket and also improve the design at the same time. Are you intended to make the same machine? If that's thes case, let me know what type of material you have access to? Linear rails and ballscrews especially. I'm intending to publish the design with all sbr20 rails and sfu1204.
@@minhsmancave9448 I'm happy to just copy your design fully. I just have some scrap 18mm left over from a large sandblaster I made. I have just ordered a 3018 BTW. So looking forward to more from this:)
Great video as always Minh... 5 Star
Thank you for your supports my friend!
Thank you for your videos, you have inspired me to build and upgrade my 3018. I am just looking to cut hardwood at a non glacial pace, as well as some simple aluminium fixings for shop jigs etc.I am hoping once fully upgraded to aluminium it will be able to breeze through hardwood, so simple bowls don't take 6+ hours of pocket clearing, as they currently do.
Can I ask why you use SBR rails over MGN?
very nice, wood cnc to aluminum to titanium cnc
One day my friend
Requesting a 4th axis build!
Building a 4th axis or even 5th axis is not difficult. But to be able to use it, I'll have to buy the full version of fusion 360. I just don't have the budget for it right now and also haven't found the need for the extra axis yet.
Hi! I really enjoy watching your videos and the same time learn from it!
I am wondering if you could show us how you cut acrylic sheets, what bit to use, ideal speed rate, etc. I intend to buy a 3018 cnc too and i want to cut small letters (about 1”-1-1/2”tall) from acrylic sheets about 3mm-6mm thick. Please teach!
Single flute end mill will be best. With the 3018, run around 750mm/minute feed rate, 1mm step down.
@@minhsmancave9448 please show us how you do it🙏. Can the bit you are recommending to use cut the “inside right corners” of the letters using acrylic sheets(3mm thick or thicker).
You don’t have to do right away what i am begging you to do but i am asking you to give it some time. Thank you!
Whens the next upload! I'm waiting patiently :)
In a few days mf, too busy with other things.
What was the total cost of this? That would be very useful info in the title
Right, I actually forgot to mention at the end of the video. It was about $650. It's not the cheapest for milling aluminum but it's the potential to upgrade everything else later for steel milling. I estimate to be able to mill steel for under $1200
I still can't get the 3018 to behave for me. I guess it is me as wrapping my head around the milling operations is extremely hard.
Just try with the simple parts first and go very slow before pushing the speed.
@@minhsmancave9448 Tried that. It is the CAM part and me not grasping it. 3d printing slicers should be a thing for this.
@@thebeststooge 3D printing slicer has a fixed nozzle size and there's no backlash from cutting force, which makes it easier for the path to be universal. While milling will depend on the machine itself. You have to know how good is your machine, and what type of bits you have to decide what type of cutting parameters to use. I'm sure an industrial CNC mill machine can have that type of feature since the stiffness, precision, and cutting bits are all the top along with an automatic tool changing system. For hobbyist users, you just have to practice.
@@minhsmancave9448 It can be done at the consumer level as well. Every single 3d printer slicer I have seen I can change parameters from nozzle size to speeds, feeds, even backlash compensation is a thing now. With AI, and as advanced as current slicers are I see no reason we can't do it. Tweak as needed but the grunt work could very well be a one button solution.
Backlash on milling is way more complicated than 3d printing. The library for each material and backlash for each type of bit is huge that will require a huge amount of research. along with the quality of each machine is different. It could be done but can people afford it? I can't even afford full version of fusion 360 right now, especially considering using the software on a cheap machine like 3018. The price for that type of software won't be anywhere near the ranges that you and I can afford.
Why don't you clean your chips ? Get the already cut chips out of the way of the end mill.
Was just lazy. I'll install the spraying nozzle soon
you have a lot of vibrations there
I don't blame you for not watching through the video and skip the parts where I said this machine is not complete and still a few steps away from final version. The video is long
Hi Minh! Glad you're back. th-cam.com/video/FA96XR0jfPo/w-d-xo.html is definitely a awesome CNC, well designed, sturdy, powerful. This new 3018-based CNC is pretty well designed too despite its size. The outputs are great. Can't wait the next step.
(FR) Salut Minh! Comment vas-tu l'ami? Je soupçonnais que tu préparais de nouveaux designs mais j'ignorais si ce serait sur les aquariums ou sur les CNC. Content de te revoir. En tout cas, tu n'es pas du genre à vouloir poster des videos régulièrement comme certains reviewers. Tu es plus libre et tu ne cours pas après le fric apparemment😉. C'est heureux que toute la famille ait traversé la crise covid. En attendant la suite de cette "dream DIY CNC", porte-toi bien l'ami. Merci pour ta pédagogie toujours efficace. 1h20 ça passe vite.
Salut mon ami!!! ca fait bien long temps, bien c'est de ma part. Je n'avais pas bcp de temps pour poster les nouveaux videos. J'ai passe pas mal de temps pour developer le filtre pour les aquariums et finalement je pense d'avoir un design qui peut etre commercialise. Donc, je suis dans le proces d'ouvrir ma compagnie et travailler avec un partenaire pour mettre le filtre sur le marche. Partager mes design des machines CNC c'est un hobby pour moi, l'argent je gagne des pubs sont assez pour acheter de nouveaux materiaux pour construire d'autre machines comme celui que je suis en train de finir. Ce machine est plus grand mais je peux sentir qu'il est plus stable. J'espere de savoir les resultats dans une ou deux semaines quand je commence a couper de l'acier. J'espere que tout vas bien aussi chez toi avec le Covid? personne dans ma famille n'en a pas encore attrape jusqu'a maintenant, donc, pas de probleme.
You should just build a c type machine, this design is neither stiff nor practical. Just get a big steel square tube, optionally fill it with sand and epoxy to reduce vibrations, bolt the router assembly at the top and place the x-y table underneath.
Never try, never know. How do you judge that is not stiff, nor practical?
@@minhsmancave9448 stiffnes is a rabbit hole, how precise do you need things to be, are you making shop things or jet engines? for me extruded aluminum is more than enough I just hate the friction nuts as they do slip a little over time
There's pros and cons with those nuts. I like those because they give me lots of flexibility when assemble things together. And of course they slip with long term use, especially with plywood brackets. Hopefully with aluminum brackets, I can tighten them a bit more. And same for me, aluminum extrusions are enough for me since I only need the tolerance in the ranges of fitting the bolts through the holes, not pistons in cylinders precision.
Don't build machine frame from aluminium, build it from ultra high performance concrete, otherwise You will have always problem with vibration.
Right now, I'm aiming for convenient and easy build and not looking for extreme precision. One day when I get more skill to deal with steel and concrete, I'll build better machine.