My GT7 Simhub Settings for Bass Shakers, Rumble Pedals and Wind Simulation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มิ.ย. 2024
- / @digitalrelay
A walkthrough of my settings in Simhub, which takes the telemetry data from Gran Turismo 7 and controls two bass shakers, two wind simulator fans, and two rumble motors on my pedals.
0:00 start
0:06 bass shakers
1:08 RPMs
1:47 gear shift
2:08 road impacts
2:38 simulated road texture
3:02 audio interface output settings
3:49 ShakeIt motors
4:12 speed with curving
6:40 wheel lock
7:18 wheel slip
8:09 final thoughts
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Honesty the most humble person in sim racing community, thanks for the great work as always!
I appreciate that so much! I'm glad I can be of some help, and hope that some of my ideas spark new ideas for other people. Get in there!
Thank you so much for giving us your time to explain how you set this up! I’m about to install my two transducers on a custom aluminum rig, and all of this helps a ton. Again, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Wheel lock can only be triggered if you are running no ABS. With ABS on the wheels never lock. It’s the same with a controller, no rumble from ABS.
Gotcha. I ended up using Traction Loss, which I think was added after this video. It seems to work well.
@@DigitalRelay do you feel the traction loss with ABS?
This is the biggest thing we need, I wish GT sent a signal for ABS. The wheel lock feels awesome with no ABS butttt then you have no ABS 😅
I feel like I am getting traction loss on the front with ABS on, but the effect is subtle. I totally agree. I wish GT approached braking like iRacing. In GT, I pretty much mash the brake, then trail brake coming off.
Thanks for sharing! I just purchased the parts using your Amazon links (last 2 35W in stock) Looking forward to this addition 😊
Awesome! It was a fun project to figure out and install, and now that I've had it in race for awhile, anytime I forget to turn it on, or Windows loses connection with the audio interface, it feels so weird to not have haptics going that I immediately pause the game and get it working again. Enjoy!
Finished the installation..it’s AWESOME!
I basically cloned your setup, then tweaked some of the settings for my personal taste. It was pretty close off the mark. Your video and settings halved the learning curve and got me racing pretty quick, so thanks.
The only thing I’m not real happy with is the board under the seat (Playseat trophy) because it alters the comfort slightly and cuts in on the biceps a bit. Might have to cut it down. Otherwise, loving it! Great addition!
@@zimbakin That's awesome!! I'm so glad my videos helped in any way. I agree on the board under the seat. I would definitely keep playing with that. I've had to strike a compromise between comfort and making the bass shaker effective. Mine sits a little too far forward, so I'm sure I'll continue to tweak how I have it installed. Have fun!!
Thanks for a great video, but you missed opening the "Simulated road texture" do you have any recommendations besides, 38/52Hz?
I probably glossed over it quickly because I have that set minimally. I'm only pushing it 17% so it doesn't interfere with road impacts, which are at 100%. For road textures, I'm at 5 km/h effect low force, 120 km/h effect high force, simulated road grain 50%.
@@DigitalRelay Thank you, I will try it out. You video made huge difference in my set up and I really appreciate you taking the time to make it.
I wish you a great weekend!
Happy it helped!! I wish you a great weekend too, and happy racing!
Wow thank you very much for the detailed tutorial this will come in handy.. would you mind helping me with something, as this is all very new to me,I have just bought a simple setup to use on my PS5 and play seat challenge x, basically I bought 3 of the mini Dayton TT25 8ohm transducers and the Nobsound mini Bluetooth power amplifier with built in sound card which is 2channel and 50w and 4-8ohm.
My plan was to have one of the transducers (8ohm) under my pedals, then two transducers a on my seat, but running in parallel which I think then halves the ohms so each transducer would be 4ohm, is this safe to do I don’t want to blow out or destroy anything, any help you can give would be greatly appreciated..👍
I'm not an electrical expert, but you are correct that wiring in parallel will halve the ohms. The Nobsound amp is rated at 4-8 ohms, so at least according to the specs, this should work. I'm guessing you'll need to adjust the balance between the two channels, but working with transducers like this where they are mounted on different locations and serving different purposes, you'd want to do that anyway. Your biggest risk here is probably blowing out the Nobsound amp. But, they have it rated 4-8 ohms, so if it were me, I'd probably try this setup, keep the Nobsound output to around 75% and start with low levels in Simhub and slowly turn them up over time while periodically checking to see how hot the Nobsound amp is getting. If you do end up blowing the Nobsound amp, I think you're well within reason to return it. But then you'll want to come up with a new plan. One other thought, if you think you're going to more transducer energy on the seat, maybe just go with a larger transducer there like the Dayton Audio BST-2. I also just noticed Amazon sells TT25 in 8 ohm and in 16 ohm. You could get one 8 ohm for the pedal board, two 16 ohm for the seat and wire in parallel to make them 8 ohm. Good luck!
@@DigitalRelay hello mate, thank you so much for your detailed advice, I really am grateful 👍
Over the next few days I will get everything setup, at first I will do a temporary setup and try using use two transducers and get used to the system and how simhub works etc then I will go from there and try doing the 3 method etc and see how that goes and then decide if I should go for a larger rear transducer instead, I will let you know how it all goes mate, thanks again for your time and help and videos too. All the best, Marc..
Have you found that wheel slip/lock works better using the "shakeit motors" function vs the bass shaker?
I don't know that I'd say rumble motors work better for wheel slip/lock than bass shakers, but having the feedback isolated directly to each pedal is an improvement. I think a small transducer on each pedal could work just as well as rumble motors. Since I already had the available outputs on the motor shield, and a spare PS4 controller to rob the motors from, it was cheap and easy for me. If I wanted to do transducers instead, I'd need another audio interface/power amp, and 2 more transducers.
At what value/level do you have the amp? 30? 50? and thanks a lot for these settings.
I keep the amp at about 80%, and you are very welcome!
What's the difference or purpose of multiple output level settings for each event?
There are two output level settings on the SOUND OUTPUT tab:
- one output level setting for a specific channel in the CUSTOM CHANNEL MAP.
- another output level setting for a specific event (eg gear shift) for a specific channel.
Then there is the 3rd level setting for each event (eg gear shift) on the EFFECTS PROFILE tab.
How do those three output level settings affect each others, and do you know the purpose for multiple output level settings for the same thing?
I started with overall channel output to maximize the gain being sent to Nobsound interface/power amp. I used the channel output levels to balance signal going to each channel of the power amp. On my setup, the transducer under the pedal tray transferred more energy to my feet than the rear transducer under my seat did to my body. So at one point I lowered the channel going to the transducer under the pedal tray. I then fine tuned each Effect level to get relative levels of each effect set. For example, I wanted to barely feel engine rpm at idle in the pit lane. Once I start driving, the road impact or road texture will overshadow engine rpm anyway, so I give those more level. I wanted to really feel gear shift, so I increased that level. I also played with the frequency on each effect so that they all feel slightly different regardless of level. The channel output levels on the Sound Output tab can be used to balance individual effects per transducer. For example, I want engine rpm to feel like it's more at the front of the car, so I have that channel higher than the rear under Sound Output. Finally, I sometimes use the main channel output levels on the Sound Output tab to turn the whole bass shaker system up or down. If I'm racing at night with people sleeping in the house, it's nice to be able to turn things down.
@@DigitalRelay got it! Thanks for the quick response!
Do you know if there's any way to use a 3dof motion sim and the wind and shakers together? How your simhub read your gt7 telemetry?
Simhub reads GT7 telemetry over your local network. You can set the port it sends and looks for, but for me, all I had to do was tell Simhub what local IP address to look for.
I don't know a lot about motion rigs, but I found this video that uses Sim Racing Studio th-cam.com/video/Eau-1PXfZqE/w-d-xo.html
I know Simhub shows Acceleration G-Forces, Deceleration G-Forces, and Lateral G-Forces, so I would guess that's what you need to read from GT7 and then use effects to control your motors using Arduino boards and motors.
I recommend getting on the Simhub Discord server. Lots of detailed info over there.
Go to www.simhubdash.com and under Help is a link to the Discord invite.
I'd love to see a video if you get this up and running!
@@DigitalRelay it worked here, but not with simtools at the same time and the gt7 proxy plugin active, either I use movement, or wind.and vibration, I'm still trying to get both together
How did you get Simhub on your MacBook ?
I use a program called Jump Desktop that's basically a VNC server and client. It works great for remote access. I think it cost about $30 US.