Lovely job, very easy on the eye. They were a really useful multi purpose dinghy, I grew up with one in the family, creek-crawled it all over the Fal estuary and raced it on club days, rowed, fished and even had my first snog in it. 😁 Nice one Dan, cheers. 😎👍🍻
Very nice! How did you come across that gem? Wondering how long from start to completion? Did you do the restore for a client or is it your own? Beautiful job! JIM ❤
Thanks Jim! This is a restoration what was done for a customer, from start to completion this restoration took around 10 months. The boat was originally built by LH Walker & Co. The little plane is a Veritas, skew block plane, a very nice little tool!
Wow. What did you use to remove the paint and old varnish, inside and outside, apart from the scrapper? The planks were in very good shape, lucky you, I expected worse from the "collection" pictures.
We did a combination of processes. Chemical strip, heat gun and finally sand blasted. Yeah the planks were in great shape which was a nice surprise I thought we might have been replacing some of them at least.
No didn't have any problems with that, as we did an oxalic acid treatment as well the hull was washed quite thoroughly before we started finishing. We used a product called Paramose which was about the most aggressive paint stripper I could find.
I hope that it sails nicely. These boats were very hardy and very stable. How long is it? It looks about 13 feet long. I learned to sail in a boat like this. Was 12 foot long with a bow sprit. It was gaff rigged.
Nice work! Would you mind making a video on the philosophy behind your varnish concept regarding EP on massive Wood, UV Resistance, Repair friendliness (PP Varnish plus traditional Topcoat) and anything else I forgot to mention now? I believe writing it down to send it over to me for discussion is a time consuming thing and a video would offer it to everyone else. I'm thinking about penetrating EP versus UV resistance for example. What about EP on massive Wood? It's told EP shall not be used on massive Wood as the wood moves and cracks will let water in but not out. Are you confident the EP penetrates so deep so any moisture exchange and movement is impossible? Do you have any long time experience on the UV resistance of EP sealer?
Great work! Could you tell me tiny bit more about your approach how you straightened the hull? how did you do it and how did you check it before and after your measure? Keep up your great work
Thanks! There were two low areas, around the centre of the bilge keels, where the hull had pushed in, presumably because it dried out sat on the trailer but also because it wasn't very well supported. To pull it back to shape we used some timbers across the keel (the ones you can see at 2:17) and we ran long screws though the hull into these. We used the rivet holes that were in place when we removed the ribs in this area so we didn't have to make a new hole in the bottom. We progressively tightened these screws where needed to pull the hull back into shape and did this all by eye, sighting down the plank lands. A well trained eye can be surprisingly accurate for checking a fair curve. Once it was pulled back to fair we turned the boat over and began installing the new timbers (or ribs) and did the ones in this area last, removing the jig as the timbers went in.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Thank you very much for your detailed answer. May I ask what screw size you used? Would you do the same approach at other boat areas. Like when the transom area where the boat sagged or more complex when you have a twist in your hull? Once again thank you very much. You are a real master in your skills!!! keep up the work and I am thankful for the education you give us!
I guess it depends on how the boat needs to be re shaped, which direction it needs to go in and how the evidence of the alteration can be hidden afterwards. For example if the boat is to be painted then it gives a bit more freedom to screw bits on where needed. If it is to be varnished then you are a bit more restricted. I think we used 5x120 screws, that diameter would not enlarge the rivet holes as they needed to be a tight fit afterwards.
Awesome !
Lovely job, very easy on the eye. They were a really useful multi purpose dinghy, I grew up with one in the family, creek-crawled it all over the Fal estuary and raced it on club days, rowed, fished and even had my first snog in it. 😁
Nice one Dan, cheers.
😎👍🍻
Thanks! Yes they seem to be a really popular little dinghy. I believe this boat lived down in Falmouth before the current owner took it on.
Very beautiful dinghy and excellent restoration.
Wow, gorgeous work. Thanks for sharing
Excellently done. No doubt above and beyond the original condition.
Epic! (And humbling…) Great video.
Thanks Mark!
Very nice restoration of an old clinker hull. Well done.
Amazing transformation
Incredible mate!
Thanks Sean 👍
Wow, so jealous
Amazing!!!!
wow... I remain speechless
Did you use single or two pack paint on the bottom?
Bravo!
Sweat as!
Forgot to ask who was the original maker, designer and age?
Also can you write a little about the interesting block plane
JIM ❤
Very nice!
How did you come across that gem?
Wondering how long from start to completion?
Did you do the restore for a client or is it your own?
Beautiful job!
JIM ❤
Thanks Jim! This is a restoration what was done for a customer, from start to completion this restoration took around 10 months. The boat was originally built by LH Walker & Co. The little plane is a Veritas, skew block plane, a very nice little tool!
WOW
Wow. What did you use to remove the paint and old varnish, inside and outside, apart from the scrapper? The planks were in very good shape, lucky you, I expected worse from the "collection" pictures.
We did a combination of processes. Chemical strip, heat gun and finally sand blasted. Yeah the planks were in great shape which was a nice surprise I thought we might have been replacing some of them at least.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Did you have any problem with the chemical stripping when it came to repaint/varnish afterwards? (It didn't soak into the wood?)
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Interested in which chemical stripper you used then!
No didn't have any problems with that, as we did an oxalic acid treatment as well the hull was washed quite thoroughly before we started finishing. We used a product called Paramose which was about the most aggressive paint stripper I could find.
I hope that it sails nicely. These boats were very hardy and very stable. How long is it? It looks about 13 feet long.
I learned to sail in a boat like this. Was 12 foot long with a bow sprit. It was gaff rigged.
We should see soon, launch will be this spring. I know they were very popular boats though. This boat is 12’ long.
Nice work! Would you mind making a video on the philosophy behind your varnish concept regarding EP on massive Wood, UV Resistance, Repair friendliness (PP Varnish plus traditional Topcoat) and anything else I forgot to mention now? I believe writing it down to send it over to me for discussion is a time consuming thing and a video would offer it to everyone else. I'm thinking about penetrating EP versus UV resistance for example. What about EP on massive Wood? It's told EP shall not be used on massive Wood as the wood moves and cracks will let water in but not out. Are you confident the EP penetrates so deep so any moisture exchange and movement is impossible? Do you have any long time experience on the UV resistance of EP sealer?
🙂👍
Great work! Could you tell me tiny bit more about your approach how you straightened the hull? how did you do it and how did you check it before and after your measure? Keep up your great work
Thanks! There were two low areas, around the centre of the bilge keels, where the hull had pushed in, presumably because it dried out sat on the trailer but also because it wasn't very well supported. To pull it back to shape we used some timbers across the keel (the ones you can see at 2:17) and we ran long screws though the hull into these. We used the rivet holes that were in place when we removed the ribs in this area so we didn't have to make a new hole in the bottom. We progressively tightened these screws where needed to pull the hull back into shape and did this all by eye, sighting down the plank lands. A well trained eye can be surprisingly accurate for checking a fair curve. Once it was pulled back to fair we turned the boat over and began installing the new timbers (or ribs) and did the ones in this area last, removing the jig as the timbers went in.
@@DanLeeBoatbuilding Thank you very much for your detailed answer. May I ask what screw size you used? Would you do the same approach at other boat areas. Like when the transom area where the boat sagged or more complex when you have a twist in your hull? Once again thank you very much. You are a real master in your skills!!! keep up the work and I am thankful for the education you give us!
I guess it depends on how the boat needs to be re shaped, which direction it needs to go in and how the evidence of the alteration can be hidden afterwards. For example if the boat is to be painted then it gives a bit more freedom to screw bits on where needed. If it is to be varnished then you are a bit more restricted. I think we used 5x120 screws, that diameter would not enlarge the rivet holes as they needed to be a tight fit afterwards.
😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍😍⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵⛵
Beautiful restoration
Thank you very much!