What an awesome video!!!!! Coincidentally I'm down in our basement grow room pepping a rack we'll be using to grow tomatoes in drip irrigation buckets! Have room for 4 buckets so yeay for free yummy tomatoes! Happy Hydroponics Glenna!!!!
THANK YOU for watching & for sharing your hydroponic tomato adventures! 🍅 My favorite time of year is when I can grow outdoor Kratky hydroponic tomatoes! What else are you growing this season?
THANK YOU! They are still growing in the EXTREME heat of central Texas under some shad cloth. Just trying to keep them alive until it cools off for my autumn harvest! 👩🌾
Nice video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I attempted the same approach here in Bay Area, CA with same size container , but wasn't successful. My problems were as below and hope you can provide a solution based on your experience. 1. The liquid nutrient level went down 1/4 in just 2-2.5 months . I replenished it , but not fully ( like 1/2 way ) to avoid drawning the air roots, but didn't have a convenient and full proof way to ensure the ph / nutrient concentration to the recommended level. The left over liquid must have had very different concentration then what was in the beginning and mixing new liquid ( having 2:1:2 ratio of three components of master blend ) might have resulted in a mix with different concentration. Since I didn't get much fruit even though foliage growth was good, I suspected this as one of the problem. How did you manage liquid level in the container through out the season ? 2. The liquid temperature will go up to 105-115 F during heat wave weeks in Bay Area ( when day high is 105 F and afternoon sun very harsh ) . I suspected this as another problem inhibiting the fruiting. What was your approach to address this challenge ?
GREAT QUESTIONS! I have encountered all of the challenges you have, but in central Texas heat. You will need to be able to measure the pH and the EC level of all of the tanks’ nutrient solutions. General Hydroponics has a good kit for measuring pH and you can get a fairly inexpensive EC meter stick from Amazon. I have a few suggestions on my website: hydro4food.com/hydroponics-4-food-resource-page/ Next suggestion is to get a shade cloth. I have a video out that shows how to repurpose old frames to make an inexpensive shade cloth cover. If I did not have one over my plants, they simply wouldn’t survive the TX heat in the summer-especially my tomato plants! While a lot of my tomato plants are still blooming, above 80 degrees F at night discourages any new blossoms. However, if you keep the plants alive till September, you’ll have a second season and harvest. For a decrease in the level of nutrient, I check the level and the EC level every other day. If it’s at 50% with a good EC level, then I leave what is in there and add a couple of gallons of nutrient solution. However, keep a watch on them. I start my tomato seeds at the end of January and put them out in the Kratky tanks after the last frost to get as many tomatoes as I can before the heat elevates above 80 at night. One of my Kratky tanks last year had an EC of 4.0 and a PPM of 2800. WAYYYYYYYY too high! It was a clear indication that high temperature had caused the plant to absorb most of the water. At this point I would advise emptying all of the nutrient and starting with a fresh batch. I tried adjusting a couple of tanks that were “hot” with additional nutrient, but they did not do as well as the ones that had new nutrient. Last bit of advice? Propagate some of your tomato suckers so you will have plants to replace the ones you might lose and you will be able to harvest until the first frost. This video shows you how. th-cam.com/video/iK1bmOcBKkg/w-d-xo.html What was your “aha” moment when reading my response? Why? Would love to hear back how it works for you! Thanks for watching and commenting! 😃
Bonjour professeur. Bonne explication. Sinon jai une préoccupation. Apres avoir ajuster le pH de la solution a 6.0. Est ce que durant l'évolution de la plante de tomates, vous faites encore des ajustements de ph? Cest à dire, ajuster de temps en temps le pH pour le ramener dans le bon intervalle. Cest un peut cela ma préoccupation. J'aimerai savoir si l'on doir faire des ajustements de ph durant l'évolution de la plante ?
A nice setup but those lid holes were massive and not really necessary for the plant. Plus, the huge hole size lets rainwater in like crazy, diluting the nutrient solution. As long as your tubs are out of direct rain it doesn't matter. But if sitting outside like mine, a 30mm hole is way big enough.
Thank you for watching and commenting! 👩🌾 You’re correct the larger net cup can let more water in if there’s heavy rain, but I just top it with foil when we expect a lot of rain. Some of my tomato plants will grow 9-15 feet in the season and I found the roots can get more restricted causing the plant to grow slower in a 1-3 inch net cups. Our tomato’s stop growing fruit outside from late June to September due to heat. This is my 2nd year doing the outdoor Kratky so there’s lessons learned every season. 🍅💦
@@GrowingwithGlenna A slight tilt in the entire container will help most rain water run off. I have not seen it a problem. I also add a 1/2" weep hole on the side just above the preferred water level, covered with a screen glued or taped on to keep mosquitoes out. That hole also lets in fresh oxygen so that the whole container can breathe better!
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What an awesome video!!!!! Coincidentally I'm down in our basement grow room pepping a rack we'll be using to grow tomatoes in drip irrigation buckets! Have room for 4 buckets so yeay for free yummy tomatoes! Happy Hydroponics Glenna!!!!
THANK YOU for watching & for sharing your hydroponic tomato adventures! 🍅 My favorite time of year is when I can grow outdoor Kratky hydroponic tomatoes! What else are you growing this season?
@@GrowingwithGlenna just some tomatoes in large pots with soil. Winter just aroud the corner so time to start indoor hydro soon!
I'm in love with your smile!))
From Russia with Love!
@@nektoxyz1013 Thanks for watching & good luck with your hydroponic farming!💦👩🌾
That's awesome!
THANK YOU! They are still growing in the EXTREME heat of central Texas under some shad cloth. Just trying to keep them alive until it cools off for my autumn harvest! 👩🌾
Nice video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I attempted the same approach here in Bay Area, CA with same size container , but wasn't successful. My problems were as below and hope you can provide a solution based on your experience.
1. The liquid nutrient level went down 1/4 in just 2-2.5 months . I replenished it , but not fully ( like 1/2 way ) to avoid drawning the air roots, but didn't have a convenient and full proof way to ensure the ph / nutrient concentration to the recommended level. The left over liquid must have had very different concentration then what was in the beginning and mixing new liquid ( having 2:1:2 ratio of three components of master blend ) might have resulted in a mix with different concentration. Since I didn't get much fruit even though foliage growth was good, I suspected this as one of the problem. How did you manage liquid level in the container through out the season ?
2. The liquid temperature will go up to 105-115 F during heat wave weeks in Bay Area ( when day high is 105 F and afternoon sun very harsh ) . I suspected this as another problem inhibiting the fruiting. What was your approach to address this challenge ?
GREAT QUESTIONS! I have encountered all of the challenges you have, but in central Texas heat. You will need to be able to measure the pH and the EC level of all of the tanks’ nutrient solutions. General Hydroponics has a good kit for measuring pH and you can get a fairly inexpensive EC meter stick from Amazon. I have a few suggestions on my website: hydro4food.com/hydroponics-4-food-resource-page/
Next suggestion is to get a shade cloth. I have a video out that shows how to repurpose old frames to make an inexpensive shade cloth cover. If I did not have one over my plants, they simply wouldn’t survive the TX heat in the summer-especially my tomato plants!
While a lot of my tomato plants are still blooming, above 80 degrees F at night discourages any new blossoms. However, if you keep the plants alive till September, you’ll have a second season and harvest.
For a decrease in the level of nutrient, I check the level and the EC level every other day. If it’s at 50% with a good EC level, then I leave what is in there and add a couple of gallons of nutrient solution. However, keep a watch on them. I start my tomato seeds at the end of January and put them out in the Kratky tanks after the last frost to get as many tomatoes as I can before the heat elevates above 80 at night.
One of my Kratky tanks last year had an EC of 4.0 and a PPM of 2800. WAYYYYYYYY too high! It was a clear indication that high temperature had caused the plant to absorb most of the water. At this point I would advise emptying all of the nutrient and starting with a fresh batch. I tried adjusting a couple of tanks that were “hot” with additional nutrient, but they did not do as well as the ones that had new nutrient.
Last bit of advice? Propagate some of your tomato suckers so you will have plants to replace the ones you might lose and you will be able to harvest until the first frost. This video shows you how. th-cam.com/video/iK1bmOcBKkg/w-d-xo.html
What was your “aha” moment when reading my response? Why? Would love to hear back how it works for you! Thanks for watching and commenting!
😃
Bonjour professeur. Bonne explication. Sinon jai une préoccupation.
Apres avoir ajuster le pH de la solution a 6.0.
Est ce que durant l'évolution de la plante de tomates, vous faites encore des ajustements de ph?
Cest à dire, ajuster de temps en temps le pH pour le ramener dans le bon intervalle.
Cest un peut cela ma préoccupation. J'aimerai savoir si l'on doir faire des ajustements de ph durant l'évolution de la plante ?
A nice setup but those lid holes were massive and not really necessary for the plant. Plus, the huge hole size lets rainwater in like crazy, diluting the nutrient solution. As long as your tubs are out of direct rain it doesn't matter. But if sitting outside like mine, a 30mm hole is way big enough.
Thank you for watching and commenting! 👩🌾 You’re correct the larger net cup can let more water in if there’s heavy rain, but I just top it with foil when we expect a lot of rain. Some of my tomato plants will grow 9-15 feet in the season and I found the roots can get more restricted causing the plant to grow slower in a 1-3 inch net cups. Our tomato’s stop growing fruit outside from late June to September due to heat. This is my 2nd year doing the outdoor Kratky so there’s lessons learned every season. 🍅💦
@@GrowingwithGlenna A slight tilt in the entire container will help most rain water run off. I have not seen it a problem. I also add a 1/2" weep hole on the side just above the preferred water level, covered with a screen glued or taped on to keep mosquitoes out. That hole also lets in fresh oxygen so that the whole container can breathe better!
@@mamajan99 GREAT advice! I really appreciate any tips for making Outdoor Kratky a success! Thanks for watching 😎 and for sharing! 💦👩🌾