All the goods linked up down below ~ ↠ Mastering Your Tower Garden Series: www.hg-hydroponics.com/offers/hhg5LVc4 ↠ To buy a Tower Garden Click HERE: www.towergarden.com#Humblegrowthhydroponics ↠ My Free Guides and Indoor Lighting E-book: www.humblegrowthhydroponics.com ↠ Enroll in The School of Hydroponics: www.hg-hydroponics.com/hydroponicssalespage ↠ Amazon Store (all the tools I use): www.amazon.com/shop/livingzeal
1. Half of recommended concentration when it comes to nutrients (750 ppm if 1500 ppm is recommended) 2. Add 10mL of 3% H2O2 per gallon 3. Wrong size container 4. Always keep grow light 12" away 5. Prevent algae by growing something that grows fast
Something I’ve learned, submersible, UV lights. They work wonders to eliminate the growth of algae in your reservoir. Mine runs for an hour per day and I have no algae with clear container
Very nice sets of tips. I've learned these the hard way, but I hope anyone watching this takes in all of this excellent information prior to getting into this amazing hobby. It's incredibly fulfilling and exciting. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for this video. 5:07 Very easy to follow for a beginner. I also appreciate your humble response to patronizing comments, and I learned a lot more by reading them. You've got a new subscriber! Also, can you please link any other videos you refer us to in your description, as they don't show up in the video when I'm watching on my TV. Thanks 🙏
Hi: I grow hydroponic strawberries. Because they're a long term crop, they easily get root rot. I've found that colloidal silver, 3-5ml per gal, helps a lot. I also use air stones--actually mandatory--to minimize root rot. I know this isn't Kratky, but a hybrid DW culture. There is also an organic fungicide called bacillus amyloliquefaciens which helps with root rot. Same dosing as Colloidal silver. This is most useful in the heat of summer outdoors, where I grow day neutral strawberries in DW hydroponics. I also use some H2O2.
Kenneth, mind if I pick your brains first thing in the morning? Well, it is here in Australia. Q1 - being a long term crop, what size bucket do you use for them?Q2, And when "buckets" are talked of, do they have to be deep, or just shallow and wide? Q3 (the last I promise) what power pump for said buckets? Is there a ratio, Lt to watts of power for the air stone. And thanks in advance.
Wonderful spot-on video. I would love to have some help on nutrient concentration on Kratky gardens vs Aerogardens for tomatoes and for greens. And since you said to cut circulating system solutions in half, all I would need to know is the ppm concentrations in circulating systems for tomatoes and other fruiters and also for nonfruiting plants. Thanks from a brand new subscriber.
When using Hydrogen peroxide i dont recommend using the stuff you buy at the store it has additional chemical stabilizers in You can get FOOD GRADE peroxide but its gonna need to be diluted quite a bit its like 35% and should only be added to distilled water before using .😊
Very nicely explained in less but effective words. I have 2 questions 1. What if i keep a hole on the surface, covered always but to open it daily for a few minutes for air to enter & circulation, stir the water without disturbing the root system? 2. Algae is mostly unavoidable, but does it create any harm for the roots & plants?
To avoid algae growth, a black plastic trash bag is inexpensive and can be wrapped & taped around containers. Double wrap if it's thin. Water/nutrient levels can be held steady with a weep hole in the side of the container (outside grows). I actually use a 5gal nutrient bucket coupled to a float valve to keep levels steady on slower growing plants. PS: An additional valve can be added a bit lower to your outdoor water supply in case you are out of town for a bit.
Much appreciate your presentation! Myself just starting up and got a few tomato plants in roughly 45 L black, double walled (for temp control) pots outside. However, over the past five weeks I’ve been fighting the pH and EC values like crazy. They keep exploding on me. An addition to that not getting much hydration and the roots are not coming out of the cocos. I’d really appreciate any advice you might have!?
I used the brown mason jars and they worked great in the beginning in preventing algae, but 3 months later they have algae even though there was no light coming from the top...
What you're seeming to suggest is that somehow your alegea is violating the laws od thermo dynamics. It may not have seemed significant to you, but there was still probably a tiny amount if light filtering through your medium. Algea is bad because it competes with plant roots, but if it's growing so slowly it's ultimately toothless.
I've been growing winter greens in the basement kratky and regular soil style for quite a few years. Mostly lettuces, bok choy, arugala. Now I only use kratky for microgreens unless I use large, at least 1/2 gallon, containers for kratky growing. I have found that using quart containers or smaller means constant monitoring of the water after plants and roots start to take off and begin consuming higher quantities of water. Since the plants grow at different rates I have to lift or check each container daily to make sure there is enough water and not too much when I add new water. This is time consuming.. Also need to monitor for algae and root rot and ppm. With my soil planted greens, I use 4" pots in a 10x20 tray and water 8 or more at once, letting them drink as they please. So much easier. No algae, root rot or babying. I also like that I can use organic fertilizers (I use Plant Food Hero mostly) in soil, whereas you can't use organic fertiiizers in kratky or hydroponics.
Thank you for your input. The idea of the Kratky method is to make sure your container is the proper size to NEVER have to fill or top off the plants. It's suppose to be passive gardening unless you do it wrong. Which is why I make these videos. You will ONLY get root rot if you water temperature is to high, like if it's in direct sunlight. That's why I'd recommend grow lights, and temperature monitoring 👌 you can also get or make organic hydroponic nutrients, but the usda doesn't consider hydroponics organic because they say it has to be in soil to be organic, I don't completely agree with that but whatever. 🤙
Thank you, I definitely have a root rot problem with some of my setups. If I use an air stone (not Kratky, I know), will that tend to prevent root rot?
so the root rot makes it hard for the plant to absorb oxygen, so getting as much oxygen to the roots as possible would certainly help, but also be sure to check your water temp, if it get's above 85 degrees F, that's prime root rot conditions. Hope this helps!!
That is a very interested idea! I think you should try for sure. My only concern would be that they might eat the roots too. Give it a shot though and let me know how it goes.
Wouldn't nutrient levels actually go down as the plants consume them at some period of time? Sorry, I'm a beginner and am learning this. Your information is very informative. Thank you.
Hey no worries. Some of the nutrients do go down any get absorbed, but the heavier nutrients end up concentrating at the bottom. Similar to when you reduce something on your stove like soup, you concentrate the flavor by boiling out the water, leaving the spices and seasoning behind. The water in jar is absorbed leaving the heavy nutrients to concentrate in less and less water. Hope this helps. 🤙
Great question!!! You can, and I recommend adding the H2o2 every week to your setup. As the level drops and the nutrients concentrate you should adjust the amount appropriately. I Hope this helps :)
You say it's important to calculate the container size. How do I do this? I find it hard to find information on this. I want to grow lettuce but I don't know what size container I should use.
It is so hard to find good reliable sources for information like this. It's all about the root size, lettuce and other leafy greens grow fast and are perfect for the large Mason jar Kratky setup, also herbs in the mint family (pretty much all popular herbs) have shallow root systems so they can handle smaller container too. Larger plants like, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers etc... should be in a much larger container like a 5gallon. You can always start these large plants in a jar then move them into a lather setup once the jar has become too small.
So sorry for the untimely response. So I use a Ec meter amzn.to/3j0GKoR to measure my nutrients. It won't tell you what nutrients are in there but it will tell you how many overall th-cam.com/video/udR10DLpPZY/w-d-xo.html For clear kratky gardens I use the nutrients that came with my tower garden, but generally I use these for most of my hydro setups amzn.to/3kNsRKU and these for the more sensitive setups. amzn.to/3Hy1LjS but there are so many choices in brands, I'm not sure you can go wrong.
Thank you, finally getting ready to just start the mason jars and items for set up. Is the peroxide you mention possibly the food grade? I have seen people adding drops of this type of peroxide to their drinking water and believe it is the H202 you meant?
The Hydrogen Peroxide I mention is only %3, food grade H202 (thank you :) is usually much higher in strength like %35 and thank you so much for the sub!! glad you're here :)
@@humblegrowth Thank you, for answering. I have it in my cart for delivery going to make my purchase as soon as I find a spot out of my son’s reach or sight. lol
@@SouthFloridaSunshine lol my 2 yr old son has been the executioner of many plants in my garden. I try to make it a learning experience for everyone, but mostly just for me to keep them out of reach 🤣
Just switched a plant to dwc from kratky could have used this video before and probably not have switched. Oh well, now I know. And knowing is half the battle!
Notes for myself Blocking lights is the best way to keep algae Root rot might be because there's no air for the roots thats why we would use hydrogen peroxide
sounds like a $1 air stone and a $10 air pump will just save you more time and energy then anything else. that was my experience anyway... $11 and every kratky problem i used to get not only stopped but plants grew bigger.
Mixing measuring systems is confusing. ML to GALLON? How about OUNCES per gallon? In the USA we use ounces and gallons, not the metric stuff. As the plant uses water it ALSO uses those nutrients therefore your nutrient concentration will not be exceedingly high as the water level drops. BIG concern is salt buildup. Best to dump the water out when low and replenish with fresh nutrients and clean water. Black and dark pots get really HOT in the summer sun. So hot that it kills the roots on the sun facing side of the pot. At least with soil filled ones anyway. And then you might want to consider mosquitoes if your pot is not sealed properly and it outside.
Because I never suggest how long they should be on. 12 inches is safe for just about any plans up to 12-1300 Umols. thanks for the concern Mr Bongholio. :)
@@humblegrowth 18 hours for veg, 12 hours for flower is standard. The amount of hours has nothing to do with killing your plants with too much light. I would love to see your plants in your next video. - The_Real_Bongholio.
@@bongholio unfortunately all of my plants froze a few weeks ago, when my heater popped a breaker. You are more than welcome to watch my older videos (this channel is only a few months old) to see my setup. I probably show it a bit in my led lighting 101 video too. th-cam.com/video/AYoDQdXQuMw/w-d-xo.html also, If you would like to use the 18-12 growth cycle then it should be up to you to figure out the ppfd at 12 inches that your plants would need. (I can't do all the work lol) Thank you for your input, I always appreciate the engagement. 🤙
Uh... so you're using agricultural hydrogen peroxide or that antiseptic version that is full of things like silver & other shelf-life-extending -solutions... Just saying if you skin begins turning blue...jkjk
@@humblegrowth They use silver & other ingredients to keep the self-life extended on antiseptic peroxide where the ag version expires far sooner. You can't just say it doesn't contain silver.
@@SlackerU I'm having a hard time finding any real information about this. Would you mind linking up the sources in the comment chain here for people, if you have the time? I love to share new information I discover from the comments in follow-up videos, I just want everything I share to be backed up with credible resources. Maybe I just searched for the wrong thing. I would love to be able to warn people that there is silver in 3% hydrogen peroxide, I just can't find that information anywhere. Thank you so much for back and forth, we can all learn from each other if we're willing to be humble. :)
@@humblegrowth Sorry, the search term is 'food grade' peroxide & not 'ag'. The companies aren't legally required to list what they use to extend shelf-life & improve medical antiseptic properties of peroxide. You want to be using "food-grade" to ensure it doesn't contain this legally-not-listed medical-related-ingredients used to improver antiseptic properties for residential products that are often misused by non-doctors.
Initial Conditions: Volume: 5 gallons Starting PPM: 750 PPM Step 1: After Water Reduces by Half When the water reduces to half (i.e., 2.5 gallons), the concentration of the solute will naturally double if no extra water or solute is added. 𝑃 𝑃 𝑀 new = 750
PPM 0.5 = 1500
PPM PPM new = 0.5 750PPM =1500PPM Therefore, when you lose half the water, the concentration becomes 1500 PPM. Step 2: After Water Reduces by a Quarter (from original) Now, the water is reduced by a quarter of the original volume, which means you're left with 1.25 gallons. The concentration will quadruple (since 1.25 gallons is 25% of 5 gallons): 𝑃 𝑃 𝑀 new = 750
PPM 0.25 = 3000
PPM PPM new = 0.25 750PPM =3000PPM Summary of Stages: Starting with 5 gallons: 750 PPM After half of the water (2.5 gallons): 1500 PPM After a quarter of the water (1.25 gallons): 3000 PPM If you want to avoid a steep increase in PPM as the water reduces, you would need to add water back to maintain the initial 750 PPM or adjust the amount of concentrate accordingly.
Step-by-Step Calculation: Final Stage (1.25 gallons): You want the solution to be 1500 PPM at this stage. PPM (parts per million) represents milligrams of solute per liter of solution. Let's first convert gallons to liters: 1.25
gallons = 1.25 × 3.785 = 4.73125
liters 1.25gallons=1.25×3.785=4.73125liters So, to achieve 1500 PPM in 4.73125 liters: Total solute (mg) = PPM × Volume (liters) = 1500 × 4.73125 = 7096.875
mg Total solute (mg)=PPM×Volume (liters)=1500×4.73125=7096.875mg This is the total amount of solute you need in the solution, which will stay constant as the water reduces. Initial Volume (5 gallons): Now, you need to find out what the initial concentration should be with 5 gallons of water. Convert 5 gallons to liters: 5
gallons = 5 × 3.785 = 18.925
liters 5gallons=5×3.785=18.925liters The initial concentration (PPM) in 5 gallons will be: Initial PPM = Total solute (mg) Volume (liters) = 7096.875 18.925 = 374.85
PPM Initial PPM= Volume (liters) Total solute (mg) = 18.925 7096.875 =374.85PPM Final Answer: The initial concentration should be approximately 375 PPM when you start with 5 gallons of water, so that by the time the water reduces to 1.25 gallons, the concentration will reach 1500 PPM. This ensures a balanced nutrient distribution as the water reduces. i guess the real part is how much species X absorbs as the water reduces for optimal liquid feed. and the type of feed as well Have you got any favourite feeds you recommend? as the cost of that generally is the issue with any hydroponic system
All the goods linked up down below ~
↠ Mastering Your Tower Garden Series:
www.hg-hydroponics.com/offers/hhg5LVc4
↠ To buy a Tower Garden Click HERE:
www.towergarden.com#Humblegrowthhydroponics
↠ My Free Guides and Indoor Lighting E-book:
www.humblegrowthhydroponics.com
↠ Enroll in The School of Hydroponics: www.hg-hydroponics.com/hydroponicssalespage
↠ Amazon Store (all the tools I use): www.amazon.com/shop/livingzeal
1. Half of recommended concentration when it comes to nutrients (750 ppm if 1500 ppm is recommended)
2. Add 10mL of 3% H2O2 per gallon
3. Wrong size container
4. Always keep grow light 12" away
5. Prevent algae by growing something that grows fast
Always excited when I find another Kratky grower! Thanks for sharing
You and me both! Thanks for being here 😊
Something I’ve learned, submersible, UV lights. They work wonders to eliminate the growth of algae in your reservoir. Mine runs for an hour per day and I have no algae with clear container
Wow really!? Thank you so much for the info, I'm going to give it a shot asap.
...you shouldn't have algae growing at all if the submersible is dark. And UV lights kill EVERYTHING including good bacteria...so...
Very nice sets of tips. I've learned these the hard way, but I hope anyone watching this takes in all of this excellent information prior to getting into this amazing hobby. It's incredibly fulfilling and exciting. Thanks for sharing!
Thank YOU for the excellent comment fellow Hydro Farmer!! 😀 I couldn't agree more!
Again, your visuals are simple and clear.
Thanks for this video. 5:07 Very easy to follow for a beginner. I also appreciate your humble response to patronizing comments, and I learned a lot more by reading them. You've got a new subscriber! Also, can you please link any other videos you refer us to in your description, as they don't show up in the video when I'm watching on my TV. Thanks 🙏
Absolutely! Thank you so much for the subscription and kind words!:)
Hi: I grow hydroponic strawberries. Because they're a long term crop, they easily get root rot. I've found that colloidal silver, 3-5ml per gal, helps a lot. I also use air stones--actually mandatory--to minimize root rot. I know this isn't Kratky, but a hybrid DW culture. There is also an organic fungicide called bacillus amyloliquefaciens which helps with root rot. Same dosing as Colloidal silver. This is most useful in the heat of summer outdoors, where I grow day neutral strawberries in DW hydroponics. I also use some H2O2.
This is excellent advice thank you so much! 🙏
Kenneth, mind if I pick your brains first thing in the morning? Well, it is here in Australia. Q1 - being a long term crop, what size bucket do you use for them?Q2, And when "buckets" are talked of, do they have to be deep, or just shallow and wide? Q3 (the last I promise) what power pump for said buckets? Is there a ratio, Lt to watts of power for the air stone. And thanks in advance.
@@leoandrews169610 gallon tubs are better. Buckets need to be refilled more often
You could just set up a syphon from a second 5 gallon. @@nick-hdh
I partially buried my Kratky Tote and insulated the exposed parts. That kept the Nutes cooler and evaporation down.
Thank you for the download and the vlog...I'm an octogenerian and I'm very excited to find a "new" way to garden 😊
Packed with valuable information and straight to the point. Incredible video!!!
Have run into a few of these problems myself so really appreciate this info and solutions!
so glad I could help, the Kratky method can be rewarding once it's nailed down :)
Wonderful spot-on video. I would love to have some help on nutrient concentration on Kratky gardens vs Aerogardens for tomatoes and for greens. And since you said to cut circulating system solutions in half, all I would need to know is the ppm concentrations in circulating systems for tomatoes and other fruiters and also for nonfruiting plants. Thanks from a brand new subscriber.
This is a great video. Very concise. I’ve been maximizing my light recently, by adding dozens of 32 and 64 ounce ball jars.
Superb. Precise n relevant information. To d point n lucid clear. Thx 👍🙏
How much water is required for 1 pound of cucumbers?
How can I have larvs in my hydroponic sallad? Any help?
My crops grows differently so this 10cm doesn't work
When using Hydrogen peroxide i dont recommend using the stuff you buy at the store it has additional chemical stabilizers in You can get FOOD GRADE peroxide but its gonna need to be diluted quite a bit its like 35% and should only be added to distilled water before using .😊
Food grade is available in different strengths, and 3% is easy to find.
Very nicely explained in less but effective words. I have 2 questions
1. What if i keep a hole on the surface, covered always but to open it daily for a few minutes for air to enter & circulation, stir the water without disturbing the root system?
2. Algae is mostly unavoidable, but does it create any harm for the roots & plants?
It's not unavoidable and yes, it steals the nutrients from the plant, you don't need competition and fertilizer is expensive
Thanks for the light tip
Excellent video! Thank you!
Glad you liked it!
1:24 that's awesome. Oxigizer🤣
To avoid algae growth, a black plastic trash bag is inexpensive and can be wrapped & taped around containers. Double wrap if it's thin. Water/nutrient levels can be held steady with a weep hole in the side of the container (outside grows). I actually use a 5gal nutrient bucket coupled to a float valve to keep levels steady on slower growing plants. PS: An additional valve can be added a bit lower to your outdoor water supply in case you are out of town for a bit.
Much appreciate your presentation! Myself just starting up and got a few tomato plants in roughly 45 L black, double walled (for temp control) pots outside. However, over the past five weeks I’ve been fighting the pH and EC values like crazy. They keep exploding on me. An addition to that not getting much hydration and the roots are not coming out of the cocos. I’d really appreciate any advice you might have!?
I used the brown mason jars and they worked great in the beginning in preventing algae, but 3 months later they have algae even though there was no light coming from the top...
Good to know, thank you for the experience 🙏
What you're seeming to suggest is that somehow your alegea is violating the laws od thermo dynamics.
It may not have seemed significant to you, but there was still probably a tiny amount if light filtering through your medium.
Algea is bad because it competes with plant roots, but if it's growing so slowly it's ultimately toothless.
I've been growing winter greens in the basement kratky and regular soil style for quite a few years. Mostly lettuces, bok choy, arugala. Now I only use kratky for microgreens unless I use large, at least 1/2 gallon, containers for kratky growing. I have found that using quart containers or smaller means constant monitoring of the water after plants and roots start to take off and begin consuming higher quantities of water. Since the plants grow at different rates I have to lift or check each container daily to make sure there is enough water and not too much when I add new water. This is time consuming.. Also need to monitor for algae and root rot and ppm.
With my soil planted greens, I use 4" pots in a 10x20 tray and water 8 or more at once, letting them drink as they please. So much easier. No algae, root rot or babying. I also like that I can use organic fertilizers (I use Plant Food Hero mostly) in soil, whereas you can't use organic fertiiizers in kratky or hydroponics.
Thank you for your input. The idea of the Kratky method is to make sure your container is the proper size to NEVER have to fill or top off the plants. It's suppose to be passive gardening unless you do it wrong. Which is why I make these videos. You will ONLY get root rot if you water temperature is to high, like if it's in direct sunlight. That's why I'd recommend grow lights, and temperature monitoring 👌 you can also get or make organic hydroponic nutrients, but the usda doesn't consider hydroponics organic because they say it has to be in soil to be organic, I don't completely agree with that but whatever. 🤙
Very useful tips, thank you mate.
Thank you greatly friend!
Thank you, I definitely have a root rot problem with some of my setups. If I use an air stone (not Kratky, I know), will that tend to prevent root rot?
so the root rot makes it hard for the plant to absorb oxygen, so getting as much oxygen to the roots as possible would certainly help, but also be sure to check your water temp, if it get's above 85 degrees F, that's prime root rot conditions. Hope this helps!!
wouldnt 10-20cm from small LED (ive got 23w) light be okay for herbs?
Well done video. Thanks for the tips.
Thank you so much! And you are so welcome 🙏
Hey, for the way adding hdrogen peroxide 10ml per gallon, does it mean around 2.5ml per liter?
Great tips for beginners
Thank you so much for saying so!
Thank you so much for this! Would adding snails to my clear mason jars (kratky/herbs) work in combating algae?
That is a very interested idea! I think you should try for sure. My only concern would be that they might eat the roots too. Give it a shot though and let me know how it goes.
@@humblegrowth Thank you!
Wouldn't nutrient levels actually go down as the plants consume them at some period of time? Sorry, I'm a beginner and am learning this. Your information is very informative. Thank you.
Hey no worries. Some of the nutrients do go down any get absorbed, but the heavier nutrients end up concentrating at the bottom. Similar to when you reduce something on your stove like soup, you concentrate the flavor by boiling out the water, leaving the spices and seasoning behind. The water in jar is absorbed leaving the heavy nutrients to concentrate in less and less water. Hope this helps. 🤙
@@humblegrowth Makes perfect sense. I appreciate your reply. I'm a new subscriber. Thanks.
Can you only add the H2O2 at the beginning of the setup, or is it something that can be added say weekly, bi weekly, monthly?
Great question!!! You can, and I recommend adding the H2o2 every week to your setup. As the level drops and the nutrients concentrate you should adjust the amount appropriately. I Hope this helps :)
@@humblegrowth awesome, thank you so much.
I've been doing this wrong and changing out the nutes completely/adjusting ph once a week.
Thumbs up for your baby!
Do we need to use the lightest only at night or 24/7 ?
For early growth your can do 27/7 when they get a bit bigger switch to 18hr on then when they are fruiting you can switch to 12on and 12 off :)
@@humblegrowthThank you for reply 😊❤
You say it's important to calculate the container size. How do I do this? I find it hard to find information on this. I want to grow lettuce but I don't know what size container I should use.
It is so hard to find good reliable sources for information like this. It's all about the root size, lettuce and other leafy greens grow fast and are perfect for the large Mason jar Kratky setup, also herbs in the mint family (pretty much all popular herbs) have shallow root systems so they can handle smaller container too. Larger plants like, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers etc... should be in a much larger container like a 5gallon. You can always start these large plants in a jar then move them into a lather setup once the jar has become too small.
thanks. starting with 750ppm but when you add the rest?
When the water drops the concentration will raise so I understand it
Great great, thank you! New sub and ready to grow
You are so welcome! Thank YOU, Really glad you're here :)
You talked about nutrients concentration ppm. What part per million exactly are you testing and with what testing product? Thanks a lot.
So sorry for the untimely response. So I use a Ec meter amzn.to/3j0GKoR to measure my nutrients. It won't tell you what nutrients are in there but it will tell you how many overall th-cam.com/video/udR10DLpPZY/w-d-xo.html For clear kratky gardens I use the nutrients that came with my tower garden, but generally I use these for most of my hydro setups amzn.to/3kNsRKU and these for the more sensitive setups. amzn.to/3Hy1LjS but there are so many choices in brands, I'm not sure you can go wrong.
Thank you for this!
Thanks 😊
Thank you, finally getting ready to just start the mason jars and items for set up. Is the peroxide you mention possibly the food grade? I have seen people adding drops of this type of peroxide to their drinking water and believe it is the H202 you meant?
New subscriber, keep up the nice videos.
The Hydrogen Peroxide I mention is only %3, food grade H202 (thank you :) is usually much higher in strength like %35 and thank you so much for the sub!! glad you're here :)
@@humblegrowth Thank you, for answering. I have it in my cart for delivery going to make my purchase as soon as I find a spot out of my son’s reach or sight. lol
@@SouthFloridaSunshine lol my 2 yr old son has been the executioner of many plants in my garden. I try to make it a learning experience for everyone, but mostly just for me to keep them out of reach 🤣
Just switched a plant to dwc from kratky could have used this video before and probably not have switched. Oh well, now I know. And knowing is half the battle!
Exactly! Thanks for the comment Azrael :)
keeps us updated abot your electric bill.
Notes for myself
Blocking lights is the best way to keep algae
Root rot might be because there's no air for the roots thats why we would use hydrogen peroxide
Thanks!!
You bet!
im new to this first time and myh leaves are yellowing
I have yellow leaves too. Hoping for a hint!
What are your measurements for a 5 gallon bucket with Kratky method?
I’ve got a thousand questions as I’m just getting started do you have a website or email address?
Why no refill?
Not my rules lol. Its passive hydro, you don't have to do anything after setup.
Yep - loving the "tad of hydrogen peroxide" Idea.
sounds like a $1 air stone and a $10 air pump will just save you more time and energy then anything else.
that was my experience anyway... $11 and every kratky problem i used to get not only stopped
but plants grew bigger.
Mixing measuring systems is confusing. ML to GALLON?
How about OUNCES per gallon?
In the USA we use ounces and gallons, not the metric stuff.
As the plant uses water it ALSO uses those nutrients therefore your nutrient concentration will not be exceedingly high as the water level drops.
BIG concern is salt buildup.
Best to dump the water out when low and replenish with fresh nutrients and clean water.
Black and dark pots get really HOT in the summer sun. So hot that it kills the roots on the sun facing side of the pot.
At least with soil filled ones anyway.
And then you might want to consider mosquitoes if your pot is not sealed properly and it outside.
10ml=.33814 US fluid ounces. There you go!
@@lolatu8255 33.8K ounces?
Have you checked out my kratky invention
Haven't yet. Send it over and I'm happy to check it out!
Why would you tell people to put there lights 12" away when you have no idea what light they even have?
Because I never suggest how long they should be on. 12 inches is safe for just about any plans up to 12-1300 Umols. thanks for the concern Mr Bongholio. :)
@@humblegrowth 18 hours for veg, 12 hours for flower is standard. The amount of hours has nothing to do with killing your plants with too much light. I would love to see your plants in your next video. - The_Real_Bongholio.
@@bongholio unfortunately all of my plants froze a few weeks ago, when my heater popped a breaker. You are more than welcome to watch my older videos (this channel is only a few months old) to see my setup. I probably show it a bit in my led lighting 101 video too. th-cam.com/video/AYoDQdXQuMw/w-d-xo.html
also, If you would like to use the 18-12 growth cycle then it should be up to you to figure out the ppfd at 12 inches that your plants would need. (I can't do all the work lol)
Thank you for your input, I always appreciate the engagement. 🤙
Love ur channel bro not sure why u don't have more followers. Looks like u use that peroxide on ur teeth too lol. They nice and white.
I appreciate that! 😂🙏
Uh... so you're using agricultural hydrogen peroxide or that antiseptic version that is full of things like silver & other shelf-life-extending -solutions... Just saying if you skin begins turning blue...jkjk
It's not silver stabilized h202. Thank you for your comment and concerns.
@@humblegrowth They use silver & other ingredients to keep the self-life extended on antiseptic peroxide where the ag version expires far sooner. You can't just say it doesn't contain silver.
@@SlackerU I'm having a hard time finding any real information about this. Would you mind linking up the sources in the comment chain here for people, if you have the time? I love to share new information I discover from the comments in follow-up videos, I just want everything I share to be backed up with credible resources. Maybe I just searched for the wrong thing. I would love to be able to warn people that there is silver in 3% hydrogen peroxide, I just can't find that information anywhere. Thank you so much for back and forth, we can all learn from each other if we're willing to be humble. :)
@@humblegrowth Sorry, the search term is 'food grade' peroxide & not 'ag'. The companies aren't legally required to list what they use to extend shelf-life & improve medical antiseptic properties of peroxide. You want to be using "food-grade" to ensure it doesn't contain this legally-not-listed medical-related-ingredients used to improver antiseptic properties for residential products that are often misused by non-doctors.
@@humblegrowth See below.
Initial Conditions:
Volume: 5 gallons
Starting PPM: 750 PPM
Step 1: After Water Reduces by Half
When the water reduces to half (i.e., 2.5 gallons), the concentration of the solute will naturally double if no extra water or solute is added.
𝑃
𝑃
𝑀
new
=
750
PPM
0.5
=
1500
PPM
PPM
new
=
0.5
750PPM
=1500PPM
Therefore, when you lose half the water, the concentration becomes 1500 PPM.
Step 2: After Water Reduces by a Quarter (from original)
Now, the water is reduced by a quarter of the original volume, which means you're left with 1.25 gallons.
The concentration will quadruple (since 1.25 gallons is 25% of 5 gallons):
𝑃
𝑃
𝑀
new
=
750
PPM
0.25
=
3000
PPM
PPM
new
=
0.25
750PPM
=3000PPM
Summary of Stages:
Starting with 5 gallons: 750 PPM
After half of the water (2.5 gallons): 1500 PPM
After a quarter of the water (1.25 gallons): 3000 PPM
If you want to avoid a steep increase in PPM as the water reduces, you would need to add water back to maintain the initial 750 PPM or adjust the amount of concentrate accordingly.
thanks
@@humblegrowth the plant it self will consume x amount, would have to find research papers on consumption chart, volume refill over time.
Step-by-Step Calculation:
Final Stage (1.25 gallons):
You want the solution to be 1500 PPM at this stage. PPM (parts per million) represents milligrams of solute per liter of solution. Let's first convert gallons to liters:
1.25
gallons
=
1.25
×
3.785
=
4.73125
liters
1.25gallons=1.25×3.785=4.73125liters
So, to achieve 1500 PPM in 4.73125 liters:
Total solute (mg)
=
PPM
×
Volume (liters)
=
1500
×
4.73125
=
7096.875
mg
Total solute (mg)=PPM×Volume (liters)=1500×4.73125=7096.875mg
This is the total amount of solute you need in the solution, which will stay constant as the water reduces.
Initial Volume (5 gallons):
Now, you need to find out what the initial concentration should be with 5 gallons of water. Convert 5 gallons to liters:
5
gallons
=
5
×
3.785
=
18.925
liters
5gallons=5×3.785=18.925liters
The initial concentration (PPM) in 5 gallons will be:
Initial PPM
=
Total solute (mg)
Volume (liters)
=
7096.875
18.925
=
374.85
PPM
Initial PPM=
Volume (liters)
Total solute (mg)
=
18.925
7096.875
=374.85PPM
Final Answer:
The initial concentration should be approximately 375 PPM when you start with 5 gallons of water, so that by the time the water reduces to 1.25 gallons, the concentration will reach 1500 PPM.
This ensures a balanced nutrient distribution as the water reduces.
i guess the real part is how much species X absorbs as the water reduces for optimal liquid feed. and the type of feed as well
Have you got any favourite feeds you recommend? as the cost of that generally is the issue with any hydroponic system
thanks
like, subbed! Let's grow!