$10,000.00 for tearing everything down 2 inches of spray foam on the walls then all new material or $850.00 for slow expanding injected foam. A crew came in located all studs, cross sections, packed the outlets, drill a lot of hole, installed attic barriers, and injected the foam. 5 days later we have a 10ft by 24ft room that is cozier than our front room. No warping no fires no smell and keep a great temp all year round.
I've injected quite a bit of "pour foam" successfully. Mostly opec cell designed specifically for the application using the same equipment as is used to spray the foam. As long as the cavity is empty and the installer is properly trained with the proper material it works great. Injection progress can easily be monitered with a FLIR camera and the mix (material is mixed in the gun) can easily be confirmed by spraying test patterns on the floor. I would definitely agree that opening the wall up is better.
No you didn't. It's literally impossible. If you're so confident please build a little wall, put fiberglass insulation in it, cover it with sheetrock, drill a hole, and pour your foam insulation in there. Then remove the sheetrock and show us. Do it all on video. I dare you.
I was on the fence. After watching your video sharing your vast experience on the subject - I am not in the fence anymore. Opening the walls it is. Thank you
So I have a 40’ school bus that I was just going to drill a hole in the center of the roof and I was going to fill it on top outside 2’x8’x3” pocket’s times 16. I was thinking simple GreatStuff big gaps(3”) & cracks, my inner roof is bolted down tough. What do you think?
I dont believe this, we have a company here in the states that drills a 2.5 to 3 inch hole in your exterior wall, not the siding, They check to make sure the cavaty is empty with a camera. Then insert an airhose along with the insulation hose, they drop the hoses all the way down to the bottom of the cavity then start the fill process. They offer a FULL LIFETIME guarentee that transfers with the selling of the home. They comeback after about a week and check EVERY wall with a thermal camera and if there are any spots that have gaps they fix it right then and there. When they are done outside they fill the hole they drilled in the side of the house with a foam plug.
So your saying the 3" hole is in the drywall and not the siding?. But yet it's not a drywall plug but a foam plug? Best practice is spray it right the first time or spray it from the outside when doing a siding change.
What kind of tape are you using on the stud faces where it looks shiny? Not the Tuck Tape but elsewhere (0:32 seconds in). I love the idea of taping not scraping. It looks SO much more professional and at the end of the day, how much time is really saved by scraping the aftermath once it’s all said and done? I’m with you Mike! Thank you for all you do!
The only problem is when some companies do it for profit and say screw out on right who has to fix it? For me to fill a cavity I have I have to either demolish the house or have the house lifted to insulate a host space because the builder was too lazy to insulate a30' span. Pour in foam is the solution to people not doing it right the first time.
I had "pour in" put into my mid 50s colonial about 10 years ago. I've seen inside the cavity a bunch over the past 10 years. A good company can handle everything he describes as being a problem - it just takes experience. I asked all these same questions when I got the work done and it wasn't a problem. Yea, repainting all the holes (at least 3 in each stud bay) kinda stunk, but that's why you label and keep your left over paint.
Question: I have an old house with no insulation. I have to remove the old siding as it is no good. I was thinking about removing the sideing, spraying in foam and then residing with Hardi siding. What are your thoughts? I live in the piedmont of NC.Thanks.....
Do it! We have done many situations like that. Best if you open the walls up, and spray the foam in, then caulk all the seams and flatten with silicone, then close back up and live life. Set up scaffolding and hoard with tarps to contain the over spray and control wind.
I am converting an ambulance into an adventure vehicle and have decided on spray foam. I have been concerned about how I am going to fill the 2" aluminum square tubing that makes up the framing. I am fine with drilling holes, but there are many many members to fill, and only half of them are vertical, the roof and floor are horizontal.
I do commercial refrigeration, many years ago I was at a refrigerated trailer manufacturing plant where they manufactured refrigerated trailers, the process used was to pull the trailer into a fixture which then used hydraulic pistons to push the walls in to enclose the trailer then they put a fixture inside of the trailer and expanded it so the outside and inside walls were contained, they then injected a foam mix into the cavities, the hydraulic “box” helped the over expansion of the foam from ripping the aluminum panels off of the aluminum riveted studs, but as sometimes things don’t go exactly as planned and too much foam gets injected WILL rip all the panels off the studs, inside and out despite the hydraulic rams trying to hold the trailer together, the power of foam in a enclosed area is a respite recipe for disaster.
You briefly touched on masonary cinderblock walls, this is what I have in my basement. Would you suggest sprayfoam? my only concern has been thermal bridging with the webs of the blocks, which reduces the effectiveness of the sprayfoam
I have an empty cavity and tongue and groove 3/4" boards nailed 3 inches apart on the interior walls of my home so taking the walls down is a no go. I have access to the top of the wall below the plate on the gable ends from the attic as it's a brick home. I would like to poke a hole and pour from above and would do so in many batches until the foam reached the top. Just want to do the gable end where the bedrooms are located as it's the west side and gets super hot from the sun beating on the brick in the afternoon.
@@SprayJones I thought it over and I think I'll try cellulose instead. I believe I might just have enough room to fit the machine hose below the plate. Thanks for the reply!
For the US Icynene makes a good slow rise open cell that I have used enough to trust it - (only do that if the weather barrier is good on the outside) Demilec makes a good closed cell slow rise - like it when we do existing attics and need to do enclosed slants. (both brands under Huntsman now! SonRise (Ohio)
Very interesting, I was considering drilling holes and spraying in the foam as it seemed logical but you just talked me out of it! I understand opening the wall and doing it properly and evenly is the best way!
@@ruthalexander6681 we spray foamed from the top, the sheathing goes on after with 1-2” gap for air. If we wanted to rip out all the plaster you would put a foam spacer to create the air space then spray foam. Depending on your geographic area of course
My house is one-story, all brick, ranch style built in 1958, at 41 degrees North latitude, midwest US (equal to Chicago) All interior walls are 4" concrete block. Exterior walls are about 10" thick with 2.5" gap between block and brick. These exterior walls are tied together with a single heavy steel wire about 1/8" thick on a 16" grid. (One wire every 16" horizontally and vertically anchored in the mortar between walls.) Nexgt summer I contemplate drilling through the block and filling between block & brick with low-rise closed cell foam, using borescope camera to verify filling as the foam rises and spreads. I estimate 2 or 3 three holes going vertically up the wall, horizontal spacing as needed. I've already rewired electrical in all the walls. Do you see any problem with this plan?
So far you seem to have an idea of what to do. Executing the plan, and what will happen to the system is a whole different question I cannot answer. Find some really good help to be in your "corner".
(Update) I did it --using two Slow Rise 600 bd.ft. kits so far. Will need three more. Measured yield is only about half of the 600 bd.ft.. Was told that’s because I'm injecting a confined space. Was also told that will increase the strength (no doubt) but will also increase R-value?? I would have guessed it would reduce R-value, so I hope they're right and I'm wrong. I used a grid pattern from an Irish website to drill 1/2" holes in the brick mortar from outside. They do a lot of this cavity fill in Britain and Ireland with all their brick and stone walls. The soffit on my ranch home prevents me from reaching the top of the wall from outside, holding my highest hole at 9" below the top, but the foam expands so well that I hope it's getting up there. I could check by drilling at the top from inside the house. My pattern is about 24” apart vertically and horizontally except around the ends of the wall and edges of windows and doors or other obstacles where it might drop to 12”. This is still less holes than the Irish site advised. The 1/2” injector nozzle fills the holes exactly. So foam may ooze or even squirt back out when I pull the nozzle back, or start showing from holes even higher than the one I am filling. As I pull the nozzle out I plug the holes with corks. I have large patches of masking tape around the holes, but there’s still going to be a lot of work with wire brush on a 4” grinder to clean off the surface. I might try muriatic acid for a final touch. The wire brush discolors the surface eventually, but light cleaning acid takes that off. The muriatic may be for removing final bits of foam, if it will do that. The bricks have a rugged texture surface. I had some interesting leakage inside from one window, foam crawled out under the trim and through a hole on the plastic track of double hung sash. Foam grabbed onto wooden blinds that were down, and the foam from the weep hole locked the sash in place. It wasn’t hard to free the sash. The window frame did not get compressed. I’m learning fast.
@@SprayJones can a hybrid system cause problems is this why? And watching costs how much do you recommend in walls of a house of closed cell( I'm in Alberta)?
No. 3 inches down from the drywall ceiling is what we have done. You have 1 chance to do it right so don't mess around for the sake of even a few thousand in drywall.
Maybe you can blow in cellulose. That will settle and create all sorts of new problems. Rip the siding off and insulate from the outside If none work you basically suck it up and live with it. Or gut it. Or sell it to someone that can afford to.
Find an insulation company that does injection foam. We have been doing it for years. There are several different types of injection insulation. It CAN be done.
I have seen structures that are basically uninsulated with minimal damage. Then poorly installed insulation job and they get all sorts of water and frost damage they never have had before. I provide the info, you decide after that. I am no guru.
That's very interesting I was a juror in case in the '80s in Boston. The chemical company that sold the materials got off scott free and the installer got screwed for mixing it in correctly or it applying it at the wrong temperature. It looks like the material has come a long way in 30 plus years. Looks also like you do great work I wish you were located near me I'd use you and your services. 👌👍⚒️
1:24 alone deserves a like. 1400 views and so little likes. Come on fellas it won't kill you to hit the like button. Any who... I'm getting my house sprayed soon. I went with the closed cell from the basement to the attic. The price is steep, but comfort is pretty much priceless.
Hi if rats are in the walls ( main ones) can you have the gaps filled, remove and replace internal thin stud wall us is it called ? I’m getting infested with rats ticks and mites I need a way to stop them even getting in the walls tobreak through rat proofing to start with. Or drill holes fill powder with permethrin into holes so it drops down into gaps ? Sorry I’m a woman lol I no nish , thanks 🙏
@@SprayJones I wish , but I can’t even do a council swop until I’ve got this hell hole infestation under control, no one would take it, probably I’d be killed for moving and not saying lol, it’s awful. I can’t tell u how bad. Whole block infested by rats and mites etc.ive paid for permethrin fogging that’s not working £400 down drain. I’m lost. Thanks though.
@@herptyderp4927 Sealed the structure for the parapet wall to the roof. The supports anchor into the roof system and cause a gap in the insulation. Hence to fill the HSS columns.
I will stick to the paint or the sealer, the problem is that if the paint or sealer has become detached that will render it useless, it’s the same as trying to apply stucco to a painted wall
See the problem I have is I have NO, NONE not a bit of insulation inside the interior walls of my house and I’ve seen a few of the exterior walls in doing the work I’ve had to do not much to speak of there either. I gotta figure something out. My house is old drafty and cost way too much to heat and is still cold.
@@SprayJones thanks man for the info, for the past 2 years this house has gone through phase after phase of looking like a construction site back to a home.
Have loose cellulose blown in the the walls. You may already have it in your attic, overtopping fiberglass. It will absolutely NOT put pressure on your walls. I have been seeing this done since the 1960's, here in Ohio, on houses that were built before the 1900s, all the way up to houses built in the 50's that had no insulation whatsoever in the walls- perfect candidates for blown in cellulose. Back then, it was thought that a layer of Cellotex under the wood siding + the air in the wall cavity would be adequate. In a way, you are lucky that your wall cavities are open. The cellulose is applied through 1" drilled holes from either the inside or outside by a machine that sort of looks like an industrial vacume cleaner..The air used to transport the non expanding cellulose into the wall cavity is in no way powerfull enough to damage anything. You can hire a contractor to do this or you can rent the tools to do this yourself from a big box store and buy the cellulose from the same store. You also have the option of using a bore hole camera to look at the inside if you are so inclined. The notion that you have to RIP your walls open so something can be sprayed in is kind of ludicrous if there is no need to remove anything. And in your case, there isn't. As far as the advice to use foam is concerned - what we have have here is an example of the old adage: if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
@@xmiller7691 I’ve seen where they cut 4” holes all over getting between every stud. It looks definitely like something I can do. I just really hate doing drywall. Lol most likely what I’ll do though. And yeah we have the blown in insulation in half of out attic just none in the kitchen area. Right now I have a 5x4 foot hole in the kitchen was recessed lights like the long fluorescent lamps with the crap diffuser paneling always looked ugly. I took that out and popped in 6” led lights throughout the kitchen wired them into the existing Romex for the old light. Now raising the ceiling in that old light area a little and putting a pot rack in for my wife. All that to say, I’m dreading the drywall ceiling.
@@xmiller7691 that's the way I did my house went between studs as high as where wall meets attic and between studs at bottom of Windows. Then put tight fitting wood.plugs in holes chalked and painted worked great
@@JF32304 99% of what we spray is closed cell. I have been in the SPF business for 21 years. It is safe and effective, I have made a good living from it. People that have problems with it violate rules I have stated in other videos, they are in fact the problem not the product. Blessings to you on your build.
Short answer: yes, physically, it _can_ be done; there are various systems all over the world for doing it. Based on what you're saying here, it isn't _legal_ for any occupied structure in Canada. Longer answer: it's a bad idea in almost all cases... it can't be inspected so there no way to know if it was mixed correctly, expanded fully, or adhered properly. Any expanding material will pressurize the space it's filling; that pressure is going to find somewhere to go. (ideally, it's what pushes the foam up inside the wall, but if not done perfectly, it pushes out on everything.) (I'd like to have my house better insulated, but short of tearing out all the walls, it's not happening. I've looked at injection for years. It's doable, but not recommended. The fiberglass is still in there, it would still require thousands of hole be drilled, and has a fair chance of breaking walls. I might throw the money into the fire next time the siding is replaced -- the sheeting, vapor barrier, and fiberglass would also have to be removed, not just the siding)
Too opinionated. Each application is different, even in new builds. The question relates to old builds, not what's on the video. Also, verification of pre and post injection is simple enough for the tech. Next time simply list the pros and cons, and factors to look out for rather than a completely biased narration.
Why are you talking about slow rise when your video is showing spray foam? How about you put your money where you mouth is? It doesn't take that much to do a test does it? Make a fake 2 sided wall with fiberglass insulation in it, studs on the side. Inject the slow rise in it. Then take the wall apart and see if it works, problem solved and people questions are answerd!
Did you watch this video?? Do you think I make this up or have experience? Go watch some videos on YT of people showing the results of foam injection nightmares.
$10,000.00 for tearing everything down 2 inches of spray foam on the walls then all new material or $850.00 for slow expanding injected foam. A crew came in located all studs, cross sections, packed the outlets, drill a lot of hole, installed attic barriers, and injected the foam. 5 days later we have a 10ft by 24ft room that is cozier than our front room. No warping no fires no smell and keep a great temp all year round.
Watching the foam being sprayed on is like watching the power washing videos.....not sure what it is but love watching lol.
Oh boy, yes! Sooo addictive 😜🤣🤣
Your spirit is desireing inner growth. The outside world is trying to tell you "clean and organize yourself (internally)"
I've injected quite a bit of "pour foam" successfully. Mostly opec cell designed specifically for the application using the same equipment as is used to spray the foam. As long as the cavity is empty and the installer is properly trained with the proper material it works great. Injection progress can easily be monitered with a FLIR camera and the mix (material is mixed in the gun) can easily be confirmed by spraying test patterns on the floor. I would definitely agree that opening the wall up is better.
No you didn't. It's literally impossible. If you're so confident please build a little wall, put fiberglass insulation in it, cover it with sheetrock, drill a hole, and pour your foam insulation in there. Then remove the sheetrock and show us. Do it all on video. I dare you.
I was on the fence. After watching your video sharing your vast experience on the subject - I am not in the fence anymore. Opening the walls it is. Thank you
Glad I could help
So I have a 40’ school bus that I was just going to drill a hole in the center of the roof and I was going to fill it on top outside 2’x8’x3” pocket’s times 16. I was thinking simple GreatStuff big gaps(3”) & cracks, my inner roof is bolted down tough. What do you think?
Quick question: Would a spray foam team be subcontracted to fill in walls for a renovation
I dont believe this, we have a company here in the states that drills a 2.5 to 3 inch hole in your exterior wall, not the siding, They check to make sure the cavaty is empty with a camera. Then insert an airhose along with the insulation hose, they drop the hoses all the way down to the bottom of the cavity then start the fill process. They offer a FULL LIFETIME guarentee that transfers with the selling of the home. They comeback after about a week and check EVERY wall with a thermal camera and if there are any spots that have gaps they fix it right then and there. When they are done outside they fill the hole they drilled in the side of the house with a foam plug.
Go ahead then.
That's injection foam, only a limit of companies do it
So your saying the 3" hole is in the drywall and not the siding?. But yet it's not a drywall plug but a foam plug? Best practice is spray it right the first time or spray it from the outside when doing a siding change.
What kind of tape are you using on the stud faces where it looks shiny? Not the Tuck Tape but elsewhere (0:32 seconds in). I love the idea of taping not scraping. It looks SO much more professional and at the end of the day, how much time is really saved by scraping the aftermath once it’s all said and done? I’m with you Mike! Thank you for all you do!
As a carpenter this is a great video. Truly the best way. Do it right the first time.
We agree!
The only problem is when some companies do it for profit and say screw out on right who has to fix it? For me to fill a cavity I have I have to either demolish the house or have the house lifted to insulate a host space because the builder was too lazy to insulate a30' span. Pour in foam is the solution to people not doing it right the first time.
I had "pour in" put into my mid 50s colonial about 10 years ago. I've seen inside the cavity a bunch over the past 10 years. A good company can handle everything he describes as being a problem - it just takes experience. I asked all these same questions when I got the work done and it wasn't a problem.
Yea, repainting all the holes (at least 3 in each stud bay) kinda stunk, but that's why you label and keep your left over paint.
Good. glad it worked out for you. So many times it does not.
did you see an improvement in your heating & cooling costs?
Does spray foam actually help with noise transmission from outside the home to inside the home???
Yes
Question: I have an old house with no insulation. I have to remove the old siding as it is no good. I was thinking about removing the sideing, spraying in foam and then residing with Hardi siding. What are your thoughts? I live in the piedmont of NC.Thanks.....
Do it! We have done many situations like that. Best if you open the walls up, and spray the foam in, then caulk all the seams and flatten with silicone, then close back up and live life. Set up scaffolding and hoard with tarps to contain the over spray and control wind.
Yes very carefully it can be done. On inside walls if dust or cold air is coming in.
I actually wondered about this EXACT topic. Thanks for the info!
Glad it was helpful!
I am converting an ambulance into an adventure vehicle and have decided on spray foam. I have been concerned about how I am going to fill the 2" aluminum square tubing that makes up the framing. I am fine with drilling holes, but there are many many members to fill, and only half of them are vertical, the roof and floor are horizontal.
Lots of holes and can foam...
thank you for this video. You confirmed my suspicions. Great video.
Glad I could help!
I do commercial refrigeration, many years ago I was at a refrigerated trailer manufacturing plant where they manufactured refrigerated trailers, the process used was to pull the trailer into a fixture which then used hydraulic pistons to push the walls in to enclose the trailer then they put a fixture inside of the trailer and expanded it so the outside and inside walls were contained, they then injected a foam mix into the cavities, the hydraulic “box” helped the over expansion of the foam from ripping the aluminum panels off of the aluminum riveted studs, but as sometimes things don’t go exactly as planned and too much foam gets injected WILL rip all the panels off the studs, inside and out despite the hydraulic rams trying to hold the trailer together, the power of foam in a enclosed area is a respite recipe for disaster.
Thanks for the additional info. I have heard of this and much more with panel products.
You briefly touched on masonary cinderblock walls, this is what I have in my basement. Would you suggest sprayfoam? my only concern has been thermal bridging with the webs of the blocks, which reduces the effectiveness of the sprayfoam
Spray foam the cinder block faces from the inside.
I have an empty cavity and tongue and groove 3/4" boards nailed 3 inches apart on the interior walls of my home so taking the walls down is a no go. I have access to the top of the wall below the plate on the gable ends from the attic as it's a brick home. I would like to poke a hole and pour from above and would do so in many batches until the foam reached the top. Just want to do the gable end where the bedrooms are located as it's the west side and gets super hot from the sun beating on the brick in the afternoon.
It will bow the wall out if you mix too much at once. I have seen foam push a 2" x 10" sideways
@@SprayJones I thought it over and I think I'll try cellulose instead. I believe I might just have enough room to fit the machine hose below the plate. Thanks for the reply!
For the US Icynene makes a good slow rise open cell that I have used enough to trust it - (only do that if the weather barrier is good on the outside) Demilec makes a good closed cell slow rise - like it when we do existing attics and need to do enclosed slants. (both brands under Huntsman now! SonRise (Ohio)
Fine. Still the same issues inside the wall.
YT is full of videos of failures for enclosed wall filling ordeals.
@@SprayJones yeah, multidecade old installs with old formulas.
Pretty cool stuff,i wanna foam everything now.lol
Very interesting, I was considering drilling holes and spraying in the foam as it seemed logical but you just talked me out of it! I understand opening the wall and doing it properly and evenly is the best way!
Glad it was helpful!
Do a segment on spraying foam from the outside with the sheathing removed. I may have to go this route. Thanks
Great idea!
We did the roof that way, removed the shingles and sheathing. Added cardboard for the crawl spaces, then sprayed and sheathed.
@@danlux4954 Does that mean that your spray foam adhered to the cardboard? I thought that the spray foam would need to adhere to your sheathing?
@@ruthalexander6681 we spray foamed from the top, the sheathing goes on after with 1-2” gap for air. If we wanted to rip out all the plaster you would put a foam spacer to create the air space then spray foam. Depending on your geographic area of course
@@danlux4954 ok...thanks for assuaging my curiosity! 😅
watching this stuff go on is so enjoyable. I'll be being an installer is very gratifying.
It's a skilled trade, has it's good days and bad like anything else.
My house is one-story, all brick, ranch style built in 1958, at 41 degrees North latitude, midwest US (equal to Chicago) All interior walls are 4" concrete block. Exterior walls are about 10" thick with 2.5" gap between block and brick. These exterior walls are tied together with a single heavy steel wire about 1/8" thick on a 16" grid. (One wire every 16" horizontally and vertically anchored in the mortar between walls.)
Nexgt summer I contemplate drilling through the block and filling between block & brick with low-rise closed cell foam, using borescope camera to verify filling as the foam rises and spreads. I estimate 2 or 3 three holes going vertically up the wall, horizontal spacing as needed. I've already rewired electrical in all the walls.
Do you see any problem with this plan?
So far you seem to have an idea of what to do. Executing the plan, and what will happen to the system is a whole different question I cannot answer.
Find some really good help to be in your "corner".
@@SprayJones Thank you! I appreciate your videos, too
(Update) I did it --using two Slow Rise 600 bd.ft. kits so far. Will need three more. Measured yield is only about half of the 600 bd.ft.. Was told that’s because I'm injecting a confined space. Was also told that will increase the strength (no doubt) but will also increase R-value??
I would have guessed it would reduce R-value, so I hope they're right and I'm wrong.
I used a grid pattern from an Irish website to drill 1/2" holes in the brick mortar from outside. They do a lot of this cavity fill in Britain and Ireland with all their brick and stone walls.
The soffit on my ranch home prevents me from reaching the top of the wall from outside, holding my highest hole at 9" below the top, but the foam expands so well that I hope it's getting up there. I could check by drilling at the top from inside the house.
My pattern is about 24” apart vertically and horizontally except around the ends of the wall and edges of windows and doors or other obstacles where it might drop to 12”. This is still less holes than the Irish site advised.
The 1/2” injector nozzle fills the holes exactly. So foam may ooze or even squirt back out when I pull the nozzle back, or start showing from holes even higher than the one I am filling.
As I pull the nozzle out I plug the holes with corks. I have large patches of masking tape around the holes, but there’s still going to be a lot of work with wire brush on a 4” grinder to clean off the surface. I might try muriatic acid for a final touch. The wire brush discolors the surface eventually, but light cleaning acid takes that off. The muriatic may be for removing final bits of foam, if it will do that. The bricks have a rugged texture surface.
I had some interesting leakage inside from one window, foam crawled out under the trim and through a hole on the plastic track of double hung sash. Foam grabbed onto wooden blinds that were down, and the foam from the weep hole locked the sash in place. It wasn’t hard to free the sash. The window frame did not get compressed.
I’m learning fast.
if i were to remove my stucco can spray foam be sprayed in the stud bays from the outside before new siding goes up?
Yes, we have a video on that from June.
Hey Spray Jones what's your opinion on 2 inches of spray foam on exterior walls plus 3" of rockwool insulation? Best method for a 6" wall?
Stick with only SPF. No hybrid systems.
@@SprayJones can a hybrid system cause problems is this why? And watching costs how much do you recommend in walls of a house of closed cell( I'm in Alberta)?
Would you open up the wall with just a 4’ height around the room? Mid height.
No. 3 inches down from the drywall ceiling is what we have done. You have 1 chance to do it right so don't mess around for the sake of even a few thousand in drywall.
Which brand of foam are you using in this video?
We get asked for this all the time. Too much to worry about with the cross blocking
So tell me what do I do with a 100 yeah old house in the walls,, I cant afford to rip walls out to spray the walls so what do I do?
Maybe you can blow in cellulose. That will settle and create all sorts of new problems.
Rip the siding off and insulate from the outside
If none work you basically suck it up and live with it. Or gut it. Or sell it to someone that can afford to.
@@SprayJones Ignorant answer that reinforces the passive aggressive arrogance I heard throughout the video.
Find an insulation company that does injection foam. We have been doing it for years. There are several different types of injection insulation. It CAN be done.
So a 1 inch gap at the bottom is worse than an entire 8+ foot empty cavity?
I have seen structures that are basically uninsulated with minimal damage. Then poorly installed insulation job and they get all sorts of water and frost damage they never have had before.
I provide the info, you decide after that. I am no guru.
Put wrap up. So if you dent your side paneling you can replace without cutting the foam off.
Sure.
What if you wanted to just put open cell in a wall for sound deadener is that different than closed cell?
Yes. Application issues are the same.
What the average cost for a 1900 square foot house to get walls closed cell spray form?
I don't give out prices. They wouldn't be relevant anyhow.
You can get DIY kits on-line. They come in 2 separate tanks and you just get the whole kit and so forth. Alllll depends on what you're doing.
What if someone covers the cavity before insulating? Even then?
I don't understand..
What kind of gun do you guys use? Graco fusion? If so can you make a gun rebuild video?
We used the Fusion AP. Sorry I do not do equipment videos or spraying techniques coaching.
@@SprayJones thank god for that
The only reason he doesn't give those videos is because he doesn't want anyone to take his business lol.
thnxs again, great as always for those who want to do it right,
So nice of you
That's very interesting I was a juror in case in the '80s in Boston.
The chemical company that sold the materials got off scott free and the installer got screwed for mixing it in correctly or it applying it at the wrong temperature.
It looks like the material has come a long way in 30 plus years.
Looks also like you do great work I wish you were located near me I'd use you and your services. 👌👍⚒️
Many many changes since then. A whole industry has been born.
1:24 alone deserves a like. 1400 views and so little likes. Come on fellas it won't kill you to hit the like button. Any who... I'm getting my house sprayed soon. I went with the closed cell from the basement to the attic. The price is steep, but comfort is pretty much priceless.
Thank you. Properly installed, closed cell will last beyond your lifetime.
Why got so much on the front of the stud?
Tradition mostly :)
Great history lesson . Been in the insulation field for almost 22 years in ontario.
Thanks
do you cater to Toronto? what is the name of your company would like to get sprayfoam installed
@@floyd617 I am in toronto .home anatomy spray foam insulation
Hi if rats are in the walls ( main ones) can you have the gaps filled, remove and replace internal thin stud wall us is it called ? I’m getting infested with rats ticks and mites I need a way to stop them even getting in the walls tobreak through rat proofing to start with. Or drill holes fill powder with permethrin into holes so it drops down into gaps ? Sorry I’m a woman lol I no nish , thanks 🙏
You need to move!
@@SprayJones I wish , but I can’t even do a council swop until I’ve got this hell hole infestation under control, no one would take it, probably I’d be killed for moving and not saying lol, it’s awful. I can’t tell u how bad. Whole block infested by rats and mites etc.ive paid for permethrin fogging that’s not working £400 down drain. I’m lost. Thanks though.
@@gina2190 Gut the structure. Clean out everything, then spray with closed cell 100%.
@@SprayJones I’ll look into that thanks kindly
I bet electricians LOVE you guys
It is no big deal. Will do a video on electrical and SPF
Why is Canadian spray foam purple?
In the USA I only see plain.
Required to identify it by sight for the building code. Each supplier has their unique colour.
@@SprayJones I’m glad I asked. I would have assumed marketing.
I'm going to subscribe to your channel looks like a lot of good information 👌✌️👀⚒️
Welcome aboard!
What is thickest you have sprayed foam?
6 inches closed cell
1 foot with open cell
20' tall columns with pour foam that are 8" square via 5 stages.
This is the best video on TH-cam
Thanks Johnny Walker blue label.
What is the point of insulating steel studs. Won't the temp just come through the steel?
Architect wanted them filled. That's it...
It’s called thermal bridging, it happens with wood studs too, if anything the steel studs will see less temperature exchange than wood
@@SprayJones Was it done for some sort of noise insulation? Did it make it more rigid? I gotta know!
@@herptyderp4927 Sealed the structure for the parapet wall to the roof. The supports anchor into the roof system and cause a gap in the insulation. Hence to fill the HSS columns.
1:30 Boom. An alien on the right panel.
You have got a creative mind. I do see it tho.
Another awesome Spray Jones video!
Question- does spray foam stick to sealed or painted concrete/masonry?
Thank you.
It’ll stick best to porous materials but it should adhere well enough to suit its purpose on sealed/painted concrete
I will stick to the paint or the sealer, the problem is that if the paint or sealer has become detached that will render it useless, it’s the same as trying to apply stucco to a painted wall
Taped the studs?
Yup.... faster clean up
Probably shouldn't be foaming right on top of the metal siding.
I could watch this guy spray purple foam all day, thanks for stopping me from putting foam in my wall
You bet
I heard if a product called R foam?
No
into existing wall where?
Thank You!
You're welcome!
Man that music is bad ass🤣🤯
Thanks. Most complain about music.
See the problem I have is I have NO, NONE not a bit of insulation inside the interior walls of my house and I’ve seen a few of the exterior walls in doing the work I’ve had to do not much to speak of there either. I gotta figure something out. My house is old drafty and cost way too much to heat and is still cold.
Open it up. Either from the inside of outside. Either all at once or progressively. Spray the foam in then.
@@SprayJones thanks man for the info, for the past 2 years this house has gone through phase after phase of looking like a construction site back to a home.
Have loose cellulose blown in the the walls. You may already have it in your attic, overtopping fiberglass. It will absolutely NOT put pressure on your walls. I have been seeing this done since the 1960's, here in Ohio, on houses that were built before the 1900s, all the way up to houses built in the 50's that had no insulation whatsoever in the walls- perfect candidates for blown in cellulose. Back then, it was thought that a layer of Cellotex under the wood siding + the air in the wall cavity would be adequate. In a way, you are lucky that your wall cavities are open. The cellulose is applied through 1" drilled holes from either the inside or outside by a machine that sort of looks like an industrial vacume cleaner..The air used to transport the non expanding cellulose into the wall cavity is in no way powerfull enough to damage anything. You can hire a contractor to do this or you can rent the tools to do this yourself from a big box store and buy the cellulose from the same store. You also have the option of using a bore hole camera to look at the inside if you are so inclined. The notion that you have to RIP your walls open so something can be sprayed in is kind of ludicrous if there is no need to remove anything. And in your case, there isn't. As far as the advice to use foam is concerned - what we have have here is an example of the old adage: if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail.
@@xmiller7691 I’ve seen where they cut 4” holes all over getting between every stud. It looks definitely like something I can do. I just really hate doing drywall. Lol most likely what I’ll do though. And yeah we have the blown in insulation in half of out attic just none in the kitchen area. Right now I have a 5x4 foot hole in the kitchen was recessed lights like the long fluorescent lamps with the crap diffuser paneling always looked ugly. I took that out and popped in 6” led lights throughout the kitchen wired them into the existing Romex for the old light. Now raising the ceiling in that old light area a little and putting a pot rack in for my wife. All that to say, I’m dreading the drywall ceiling.
@@xmiller7691 that's the way I did my house went between studs as high as where wall meets attic and between studs at bottom of Windows. Then put tight fitting wood.plugs in holes chalked and painted worked great
Taco western make a closed cell foam that you can bring to 5 1/2 inches I a single pass.
Gaco western.
So does BASF.
soft foam for sound deadening. not the same R value
Building a house in the spring of 2021 in Rhode Island....will you come and insulate my home?
No. Not an American but I'd like to be.
@@SprayJones not right now you don't. Not with Biden coming in. America will die.
@@JF32304 Hope you don't cash the stimulus check you are getting.
@@Jeff-ei5yc I've only gotten one and that was last year.
Good video! Been in the industry for 10 years. I’ve all ways wanted to spray that BASF purple foam. We don’t get all the cool colors in the states.
Glad it was helpful!
Whenever I build my dream home I will spray foam every wall; Interior and exterior. I will not bend on this cost.
Smarter than the rest!
@@SprayJones it's the ONLY way. Closed cell also. I will not bend on this.
@@JF32304 99% of what we spray is closed cell. I have been in the SPF business for 21 years. It is safe and effective, I have made a good living from it. People that have problems with it violate rules I have stated in other videos, they are in fact the problem not the product.
Blessings to you on your build.
@@SprayJones I would say the problems come from the person applying it and not the product. Thank you sir and good day 🍻
Short answer: yes, physically, it _can_ be done; there are various systems all over the world for doing it. Based on what you're saying here, it isn't _legal_ for any occupied structure in Canada.
Longer answer: it's a bad idea in almost all cases... it can't be inspected so there no way to know if it was mixed correctly, expanded fully, or adhered properly. Any expanding material will pressurize the space it's filling; that pressure is going to find somewhere to go. (ideally, it's what pushes the foam up inside the wall, but if not done perfectly, it pushes out on everything.)
(I'd like to have my house better insulated, but short of tearing out all the walls, it's not happening. I've looked at injection for years. It's doable, but not recommended. The fiberglass is still in there, it would still require thousands of hole be drilled, and has a fair chance of breaking walls. I might throw the money into the fire next time the siding is replaced -- the sheeting, vapor barrier, and fiberglass would also have to be removed, not just the siding)
Technically the walls would have to exist before you foamed em
1:40 who sees the face in the wall on right
We're not gutting drywall for spray foam. Stop trying to sell spray foam when filling a wall with already expanded foam works.
Lol
Foam has a lot of toxic gas off
Too opinionated. Each application is different, even in new builds. The question relates to old builds, not what's on the video. Also, verification of pre and post injection is simple enough for the tech. Next time simply list the pros and cons, and factors to look out for rather than a completely biased narration.
Ha ha. I guess I don't know anything about what we are doing after 17 years.
Air purge guns suck. Increase productivity with cs guns
How much does it cost to run those guns? We have talked about getting one but haven't pulled the trigger.
Why are you talking about slow rise when your video is showing spray foam? How about you put your money where you mouth is? It doesn't take that much to do a test does it? Make a fake 2 sided wall with fiberglass insulation in it, studs on the side. Inject the slow rise in it. Then take the wall apart and see if it works, problem solved and people questions are answerd!
Did you watch this video?? Do you think I make this up or have experience? Go watch some videos on YT of people showing the results of foam injection nightmares.