Miniature Paint Brush Cleaning & Maintenance
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- We're going over a few different products available to clean and maintain your miniature paint brushes.
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The (blue liquid bottle) Vallejo Brush cleaner and Vallejo 'sable' brush cleaner is great, when you get paint up into the ferrule, it can remove it, just dip the brushes into the pot 8-12 minutes and the dry paint dissolves. After doing this Use (say) the masters soap cleaner under a running tap to give the brush a good clean and rinse and you've got a nice usable brush again.
I've got a sable brush that's pushing 20 years!
Thanks, this was a nice video. I treat my natural and synthetic brushes differently. For natural hair brushes I use a brush soap as you suggest, so clean and keep them moiturised. For my synthetic/nylon brushes since I don't have to worry about them drying out I just rinse them at the end of the session in isopropanol 99%. It's quick and very effective at cleaning even old paint out of the brushes (since it's the same stuff I use to strip models).
Wow I have to get a bottle of the cleaner and restorer. That was magic
Thanks a lot. I alwais used brush soap, but for brushed "caked" with paint, I was alwais reluctant to use stronger... and more toxic stuff (white spirit, terebenthine...), so I was pretty impressed with this Windsor & Newton brush restorer. I just whent on Amazon and bought some. And it is not too expensive.
Thanks !
Thanks! Always appreciate the tutorials that revisit basics but in solid detail which often get glossed over.
I am one of those that use regular soap for my brushes. I've cleaned my brushes with dishwashing soap and regular hand soap when i rinse them out after painting (i make sure its PH neutral soap). I always clean them under flowing water until the water runs clean and then i will roll them in some natural, no additives soap for storage. That way there is a small film of soap on the brush itself as it dries (it cakes the brush together and locks the bristles in position so they don't bend by uneven drying)... and when i use it the next time i put it into water first, give it a shake, and rub it onto the towel. And so far it works for me. For natural fiber brushes, i do use shampoo with conditioner to clean them... i read somewhere that the conditioner helps keeping the bristles stiff. I would do the same on my synthetic brushes but i don't think the conditioner would do anything for a synthetic brush. Not even sure it will do anything for a normal brush. I would have to actually test it. But so far i can't say i am having any problems with my brushes.
But then again, i actually clean my brushes after each use... and i try to keep them wet while painting (dipping them into the water whenever i change brushes and trying to make sure it doesn't dry out)
Good brushes _will_ last years when painting miniatures. A top-quality Kolinsky (Raphael, da Vinci, Winsor & Newton) typically lasts me 18 - 30 months with an excellent tip for most of that time. Synthetics have a much shorter life.
How do you know how many models per day he's painting, and how many models per day are you painting?
@Thorin Teague Yeah, I might paint 1 Miniature per month currently and my brush should last years. So thats important, some people might try and do 10 miniatures on a weekend. (thinking those 12 hour how many miniatures can i paint challenges)
Its a good point
Wow. I'll have to give that brush restorer a try. I use pink soap after every session, but that stuff looks great for a monthy deep cleaning.
I did! It's as strong as Dr. Faust demonstrates. Use it like in the video, cause it's strong stuff.
Surprised to not see an affiliate link. Wanted to support the channel.
Personally, I use nailpolish remover without oil to clean my brushes (and glue polystyrene). Works like a charm - then a quick rinse in water and then shaping the brushes with the cheapest hair gel I could find and it's ready for the next job.
This is amazing, Doc. I was actually wondering today if you had put out something like this before and I was gonna go check. Great timing!
This was a huge help, thank you! I just use Masters Brush soap and occasionally some War Colors Cleaner but will definitely give the Winsor & Newton brush restorer a look as I have a dry with stubborn ass paint dried up in the ferule.
Thanks Dr. Faust!
I love me some pink soap. I don't paint miniatures, I'm a middling talent oil painter; stuff is incredible. Also removes paint from hands without removing skin
I’ve got my eye on that stuff as I use oils and acrylics on my miniatures. When I’ve had to clean oil out of brushes that’s dried up I have soaked the brush in vegetable oil which works real well but that pink soap looks like a better option as I can use it for cleaning acrylic paint out too
Isopropanol alcohol might be the active ingredient in that clear liquid
According to the MSDS, the Winsor & Newton brush cleaner and restorer is - DRUMROLLLLLLLLLLLL
Ethanol. 10%.
So you can just get 2 quarts of denatured alcohol at the hardware store for the same price as that small 16 oz bottle. Or in a pinch, you could use vodka.
There is only two concerns I would watch out for.
1 - It will definitely strip the oil out of your brushes, so you might want to use a brush soap to condition after using alcohol.
2 - It might dissolve the glue holding a cheap brush together, but that won't be a big loss if it happens I guess.
Just to put into context just how really bad the markup on that Winsor & Newton stuff is -
A quart (32 fl oz) of denatured alcohol at 100% abv (usually approximately 50%/50% ethonal and methonal which are interchangable for our needs here) runs about $6.
Mix 1 part denatured alcohol and 9 parts water to make 10% ethanol (really 5% ethonal and 5% methonal but it doesn't matter here), meaning you would get 320 fl oz which costs $0.01875 / fl oz.
The Winsor & Newton stuff runs $15.00 for a 16 fl oz bottle so $0.93/oz. So that's about a 5000% markup.
Even being lazy like me and just using the denatured alcohol neat - W&N would still be a 500% markup.
Even paying all the absurd alcohol taxes for the drinkable stuff (let's just say Smirnoff at about $20 for a 750ml) diluted to W&N levels - W&N would still be a 500% markup.
Even being lazy and still paying the alcohol taxes and just using smirnoff neat - W&N is still a 16% markup.
The only way to pay more to clean your brushes than what W&N is charging you? Use fancy expensive vodkas and use them neat. Nothing but the best for our kolinsky sable brushes amirite?
I can say, with a fair degree of confidence, that the W&N brush cleaner is pure unadulterated price gouging though, so it has that going for it.
Doc, I always appreciate your insight and I recommend your videos to every new and experienced miniature painter with whom the subject comes up. I feel I must respectfully disagree with you on two points. The Master's brush cleaner _will_ get dried paint out, I do it all the time. You should work up a lather from the bar and then swirl it in the palm of your hand for a few rounds. It also _does_ restore the tip, a bit. Nothing miraculous but it does help. I do intend to try the windsor & newton product you are demo'ing when I get the chance.
Thank you for the guide! I have just been using shampoo haha
I found regular soap did a good job of cleaning out acrylic paint that left in bristle of my brush
I've not used these "soaps". I will have to check them out. I like to use a quality airbrush cleaner. Airbrush cleaner typically has a lubricant that I find helps condition the brush bristles. I mainly use Iawata's airbrush cleaner.
I have some really old brushes with some really old pant on them that I haven't gotten rid of, I now know what I can use for those brushes.
My experience.
Use the masters brush cleaner and preserver (nothing that pretends to be somewhat the same thing) every time you are finished painting with your brush.
I am pretty sure i have gotten old paint out with that soap too.
If you have to remove dried in paint from brushes, well you have been cheating with your normal brush cleaning.
If you need to use stronger things to remove paint, be very sure that it wont remove other things to, i have had bristles falling out of brushes after i have used "safe" products. It werent cheap brushes either.
To restore my brushes I use Isopropyl Alcohol 91% first, then I use that Windsor and Newton brush restorer in a shot glass to clean up to the ferrule (it dissolves and loosens what the ISO can’t get) and while the brush is still wet with the W&N stuff I condition it with Masters brush soap lathering it up with the remaining W&N within the brush. Then rinse under warm water and repeat again once or twice.
The funny thing is that the W&N restorer alone doesn’t get everything - the alcohol works better but doesn’t get everything - which is why the W&N is good at finishing and deep cleaning into the ferrule.
Can you come and clean my house... you seem like you would do a great job... i will pay mexican rates 😆
As much lemon pledge as you want
My w&n series 7 actually lasted me 2 years, that was using it every day and cleaning it with masters religiously at the end of every Asian and not suing it for metallics. The fake sables are the ones that only last a month or 2
Hi! May I ask that is it good for cleaning wet oil paint from brushes???
Mr clean is the best for dried paint bristles. Let it soak or dampen your brush with it then ziplock your brush over night.
Could you add affiliate links in the future. I'm definitely going to buy the Windsor and Newton brush cleaner and I'd prefer you get a kickback from it, even if it's just a little bit. Also, want to pick up and try out the brushes you have mentioned in this video.
What's that tiny tin pie cup thingy you're using called? I'm trying to get some of those but I can't seem to find that kind with the fatter bottom part :/
Oh good. I thought I was wearing mine out fast. Mine make it about 4-6 months
I use Dawn on my winsors. Cleans better than that bar of soap
After using the Brush Restorer I assume you clean it again with a soap to help get rid of any Restorer residue?
@Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic
My go-to to get rid of really old gunk is isopropyl alcohol. What's your thoughts on that alcohol?
What do you think of Murphy oil soap?
All of the voice audio was tracked to the left in this vid. just a heads up.
How do you put the point back into the brush?
I put my brush in acetone to clean it. BAAD idea. It got under the lacquer and wicked up the entire length of the shaft and ruined the paint under it. Maybe I just left it in there too long. But man, was my fav brush
i have heard vinegar should also work well for brush-cleaning. what is your opinion on vinegar?
Haven't heard that or tried it.
Hello, I have a question about brushes. What do you use to polish the metal part of the brush. I'd like to restore it so that it looks shiny.
A) I don't think most people worry about that. B) whatever is getting paint out from deep in the bristles, it's going to get it off of the ferule. C) paint slower so it doesn't get up there.
We're getting a video of that big guy, right??
When do you decide to trash a brush...when the tip doesn't hold??
The order is from detail painting to base coating to drybrushing to glues and terrain to trash.
@@ThePaintingClinic So what determines the move from Detail to Base coat?
@@Allessio777 I'd imagine it's when it no longer holds a point. That's when I make the switch anyway.
Or maybe it's just lacquer thinner rebranded to cost 5 times more. Who knows!
I know. It's not.
I use hydrogen peroxide and folk art brushes.
Ordinary handsoap works the same and is cheaper...
La la la
1 to 3 months??? Maybe not years but if your brushes are only lasting 1 to 3 months, you are definitely abusing them.