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Chasing the crank is a real issue on an Hand Cycle. I am trying to upgrade from a mere 9 gears to a Single chainring so more Teeth makes real sense.

48T ideal 54T is good

Thank you so much for explaining all this and showing the chart. I just got a cargo e-bike, 52 teeth on the front, and finding that I am “over pedaling” when the motor assist is set to its lowest setting. The assist will only go up to 17mph / 27kmh in this mode. I am getting to about 14mph / 22kmh and start spinning out. Thinking of trying a 56 tooth and see what I get. I know I will lose some gearing if the battery actually dies on me, but if I can assist in moving the bike better, thinking I can get some longer battery life. Going to look now and see if you have anything on swapping out a single for a two or three ring, and need to check the bike to see if it can take it. Great job here.

Thank you for the info! Your 50-52-53 tooth comparison is exactly what I was looking for!

Ha ha keep it in the 50 t big chainring while you spin up the hills you don't Live in Devon then or you are a pro with legs of steel

"different chainrings do different things" at that point by BS detector went off , a chainring , no matter what , does exactly the same thing

Hi, l am touring using a triple crank, would it be possible to build my own crank using an osymetyric 55 chainring for speed, then add a lower tooth chainring for climbing?

Great review. What were the zipp wheels you added to the bike? Currently looking to upgrade mine. Thanks

Excellent explanation! Thank you.

The optimal speed is based upon All assuming the driven road wheel is the size you’ve not told us... Modern bicycle wheels, old bicycle wheels can be of all sizes... It’s the overall ratio from the crank sprocket, through the rear wheel sprocket AND the diameter of the rear tyre... Point of note..it’s not a bolt circle diameter, it’s a Pitch circle diameter.

Any cheap 54 (or bigger chainring) for ultegra r8000? The original costs 100 euro. This is ridiculus.

48/32t is compatible to 11/32t? For climb

I really like this bike. I’m just wondering if it’s very expensive to have it shipped to the US. I don’t know if I’ll be hit with expensive shipping and also import tax/duty tax. At that point a $1100 might actually cost $1,500-1,600. And at that point is it better than the Canyon Endurance AL 6 or 8. I also really like the Rose Pro SL and Rose Reveal. Any others I should be looking at?

Among the best explanations of chainrings anywhere. Gets to the point, easy and stays at it. Fantastic work.

Thanks a Lot bro..superb video and explaination..👌👍

No answer re which wheel goes where and which way round!!

Excellent thanks at this moment I’m about to buy one of them

I got 34T :( even when I pedal harder I don't go further

Thanks for this, I’ve just snapped one up for £799 standard spec perfect for my winter bike.

i have a hard time understanding the british accent sometimes, good content though

All the gear no idea springs to mind.

Cluld some one please call me and give advice I have Highland 27 speed mountain bike I want to put figure chain ring on the big gear maybe a 52 or 53T how do I get correct size

Hi Sir, I am currently on a 38T(NW) Oval Chainring mated to a Deore 10 Speed, 11-36 RD(Long Cage) for abt 2 yrs, I actually upgraded it from a 34T NW Oval as well as it is too slow for me, I don’t do trails with my bike but only mostly on pavement, occasionally road and asphalt. Problem with my current 38T is that I hardly uses the smallest and the 2nd smallest cog even when going downslope or on flats as I find it too hard to pedal. But times when I’m pedalling at a constant speed on flats, very seldom I will even use the smallest cog to cruise. Should I change down to a 36T NW Oval? Also, I am afraid it will slow down my speed! I will need and appreciate your best opinion PLEASE.🙏🏻Thank you

You should name this video 52t chainring explanation...

I’ve just done a service on a friends British Eagle mountain bike. It has a 4 by front chainring, never seen one before, or even knew they existed

I had a 50t chainring it was so hard but good once I got it going lol

50t is hard and 32 is easy but i chpse 50t bcuz of speeed😌

Drive at speed downhill to keep in contact with bike cycle not be passenger, sure it's the oval or the hey fever mixture in a brown bag

Great explanation!. Have a gravel bike GRX 40T crankset. With 11-42 cassette. Like to upgrade it to GRX 42T to 11-42 cassette. Will this make it bit faster? How much faster? Keep it up thank you.

I was hoping to learn about tooth spacing and mounting for replacement chainrings. Denied

quick question. after changing my chainring 34T to a 36T. do I need to change anything with the chain or gears?

It would have been nice to have seen the buttons on you set up as you mentioned 6 minutes in..... perhaps on a future video.... Many thanks.

I see you're still building your website..... Thanks for the review. Clearly the Boardman at £2,700 is massively less than other offerings..... no wonder it's just about impossible to get hold of. I must say I'm somewhat concerned at dropping that kind of money at my local Halfords... but I guess ultimately they are just a retail post box/collection point and not much else.

Manufacturer says max size of 34t. I understand that with more teeth the circumference grows. Does anybody make spacers or anything of the sort to get around this?

Waiting part 2

Watching this again, have had a couple weeks to digest things and almost ready for a switch.

Wonderfully explained, clear and concise. I'm a novice cyclist.

ya gut sessy axent mate

I have 52 chaing ring, I absolutely can not use my smallest cog, i wanna downsize to 42 or 44 and be able to use my smallest cog, i enjoy spinning more than grinding

Hi, I bought a pair of these pulley wheels but there are no marks on them to tell you which way round, also they seem a bit noisy. Are yours the same? Thanks

I have a middrive 750w bbs motor 42 teeth are too few...moving to 55

Great video! Thanks for sharing! One of my chain ring bolts is stripped. What’s the best technique to remove it?

Have you listened to yourself? You mix up number of tooth quite a lot, you talked about compact and repeatedly say it has 52 tooth !!!!

Need someone to help me with my 60/46/32 mountain bike project. Not sure of Front derailer that can take the range

I want to make my chainrings cheaper. When Shimano moved to 4 arm 110 BCD, the chainrings became very sophisticated 3D and expensive. I am not sure whether to move back to my 130BCD 5 arm for which there are lots of cheaper 130bcd flat chainrings. Or, should I try a cheap flat/solid 110 BCD chainring. Litepro makes one which can be used on both 4 and 5 arm cranks.

i am in love with 50 and 46t chainrings. 46t is easier and feels better for a city.

🖐🖐🖐❤❤❤✌✌✌🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍👍💪💪💪💪

I have a mountain bike with a 1x 11 11 to 52 tooth cassette that I'm using to commute I'm finding that the top speed is just to low at a max of about 42km what size chainring do you think would improve my top speed without destroying the hill climbing abilities to much as i do live in a very hilly area

awesome video dude. I'm in Canada and looking for a tri bike for my upcoming ironman. The price looks good but I'm just afraid of those duty fees hitting me making this as expensive as the cervelo. I have never seen this brand in Canada and it looks awesome.

A challenging question about bicycles. I love cycling and I understand you do to. I’m currently riding a steel frame Bridgestone. Beautiful bike. This bike has a top speed of about 46km/h on a flat clean windless road. I understand that the rear wheel gains angular momentum as its velocity increases up to a point where the required force to increase velocity is outpaced by the resistance force of the angular momentum of the spinning wheel. I can produce a maximum 1200 watts of leg drive and at 46km/h this amount of power is insufficient to increase the speed of the bike. To be clear at 46km/h I am still at a reasonable cadence so adding additional leg drive is not an issue. I know that if I get a lighter wheel/tire system for the bike I can reduce the angular momentum of the system and therefore increase the speed of the bike. But I have not found any studies that show how much speed improvement I can expect by reducing the weight of the wheel/tire system. In order to do a proper cost benefit analysis on how much I should spend on a new rear wheel, I need to know the calculation for, weight equals how much angular momentum. If we assume an average strong male cyclist can produce max sprint 1000 watts then we should be able to rate wheel/tire systems by speed. No? My second question here is how much if any does the overall weight of the bike contribute to angular momentum force on the rear axle? Do I need to reduce the overall weight of the bike if I only care about max sprint speed? Does the front wheel weight contribute anything to the resistance force of angular momentum at the rear axle? I feel like the front wheel and bike don’t contribute much to this analysis. I’m not at all worried about friction or wind because my leg drive is insane 😂 due to a ton of deadlifting. But when that rear wheel hits its angular momentum threshold, no amount of leg drive is going to increase the speed of the bike. I hope that makes sense, the ideas are clear enough in my mind but I’m not sure I’ve expressed them clearly here. I know you like cycling and I know you have the brain to analyze this question. I live in saigon and lack Human Resources and technological resources to find an answer to this question. But I thought if you found the question interesting you might have the people and tech around you to find the answer. Or perhaps you already know.