Leds are current driven right? So is that module also increasing Amps along with voltage Therefore making them brighter? This would make the them run much hotter and potentially fry them once they have been left on for longer period of time...
@@tacoreapermonir8725 That may be the case, yes. As we saw, Chris felt the heat rising and hurriedly turned them off. LEDs are less tolerant to heat and will fail faster. A marginal increase will still impact its useful life, but duration at a time and frequency will dictate by just how much sooner they would fail. Now, if we are talking about DRLs, a reasonable level of brightness during the day should be effective for what they are intended to do. In some conditions - weather or otherwise - there may be a need for a momentary increase in brightness that hopefully would not hurt much since the added brightness will not be sustained or become a default setting. At night time, DRLs should be dimmed and not run at maximum intensity. And this trick will make it a problem for those who are looking for attention. The wrong type of attention would likely keep them using it responsibly.
@@teligon He felt the converter get hot. As he said the input voltage was too low so it was working much harder to put out 14.5v. There are other ways to dim I think. Just depends what your setup is.
You need a buck boost board, the doctor dc converters are awesome, but a boost only will go up if the input is higher than set voltage, it can't be set lower than the input, that is why the buck boost converter is needed!
OK Chris, I play with LED lights quite often. LED light requires constant current and amperage to work for a long time. As you increase the voltage, you increase the intensity of the light, but the brighter they are, the more they heat up. The hotter they are, the faster they will go out. As your fan and friend, the brighter the light the better cooling will be needed! P.S. - I exclude situations in which you have to supply, let say, consecutive 5 pcs (3.3V) LED. Yes then you will need 16.5V from a 12V battery !!! :) (this is just an example)
So you think running LEDs that are normally used to seeing 14.5v when the engine is on, with 14.5v when the engine is off, is exposing them to more heat than normal?
@@flyryde Absolutely not! If the LED is suitable for 14.5V, it does not matter whether you apply this voltage to it when the car is off or working. What I wanted to say is that if the LED is designed to operate at 14.5V when you apply a higher voltage to it, if it does not burn, it starts to glow brighter, but it also starts to emit a higher temperature and then it is good to consider a heat sink !!! :) simple example: 1 watt star diode operates at 3.3V with 270mA. It holds up to 3.7-3.8v. if I give him more than 3.3v it starts to glow brighter but without heat the sink does not last more than 1-2 hours and they die. Best regards and keep moving forward with the help and guidance for young builders! :D
That's where you REALLY have to know your board and exactly what your dealing with. If the board has drivers already on it vs current limiting resistors then you wouldn't see any change at all. From what I typically see, most boards are 3 LEDs in series with a resistor that's sized for 14.4v, otherwise it's running buck/boost ic's and whatever they can fit.
I'd love for you to make some taillights for my built, it's a 2004 Chevy Cavalier Coupe, there wasn't enough support aftermarket besides led bulbs and I'd love some LED bright and mean designs with some type of effect. Performance it has the soul of a Chevy Cobalt SS ❤ its a sleeper and grabs attention everywhere. Just need the finishing touch headlights and taillights
I didn’t see the link for the voltage adjuster with display. I want some of those for sure. They will come in very handy on after market lights on cars and motorcycles.
I was checking for it too. I once bought a step-down converter by Drok, which seems to be a popular brand. Try searching for it on Amazon for the step-UP converter that displays the voltage on the unit as he has.
JacobsParts FP5139 100W DC-DC Boost Step-up Voltage Converter Module Adjustable Power Regulator Board with LED Voltage Meter www.amazon.com/dp/B079YX761G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3HEJKDPQP03E78NMX7GC
@@teligon JacobsParts FP5139 100W DC-DC Boost Step-up Voltage Converter Module Adjustable Power Regulator Board with LED Voltage Meter www.amazon.com/dp/B079YX761G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3HEJKDPQP03E78NMX7GC
Ok got an 08 silverado with some aftermarket headlamps with the c bar style halos. I recently pulled the garbage that came in them and replaced with some quality blue led little mini type strip things. The way it's set up is the leds just shine into the end of this plastic light diffusing bar ( sorry for my ignorance with terminology). They turned out pretty good so far , but you know, could always be brighter . I have no issues with voltage. Big 4 upgrade on my truck with volt readout on dash and truck stays right around 13.8- 14.1 once you turn on any lights. It'll drop to mid 12s during day with lights all off. Being an 08, it's go that RVC that always screws with the voltage, but my electrical is as solid as it gets. Double and triple checked all my grounds etc. So would/could I just add one of these inline , one per side, to crank up the brightness? 2 other quick questions if you have the time. 1- is there any way of painting a reflector bowl for the high beam black and it still actually produce light? My low beam is a projector and entire housing I painted high gloss black, and that big chrome high beam reflector just doesn't go. Other question- these little volt thingamajigs have any business being around a car audio system? Thanks for your time in advance. You're videos have proven extremely helpful in leading me to believe I can do these things, and the subsequent devastation I've inflicted on my truck 😂
I'm trying to add these to my car to dim my main headlights a bit and brighten my accesory lights. Driving in town you dont need really bright lights and can show off the accesory lights a bit more.
Your links show a step-down buck. Wouldn't we need a step-up buck to increase the output voltage? Does anyone know if you can use the buck converter to brighten a turn signal led? And if it would cause any issues like hyper flash?
Hey, I bought the circuit board with the screen on it, for changing output voltage, but it doesn't increase voltage by much. I was wondering if I was doing something wrong? I'm using a battery pack with 8 D batteries for 12v, I wanted to crank up the voltage to my lights but it isn't going above 12.3v. Do you have any idea what I can do differently?
I tried these on my custom led tails. I set up two on each side; one for brake and one for sequential turn. My Corolla did not like this. I threw an accelerator error deeming the throttle non responsive. Fortunately I was not in traffic and just pulled over and went back and bypassed the up-converters. Again, fortunately I installed plugs so this was easy. I learned the code often is a result of current backfeed. Then I installed diodes on all converters. This helped, but still threw the code and disabled the throttle, this time in slow traffic with long durations of brakes on. For now the converters are back on the shelf…
@@FishHawk1 in the video, I increased voltage from ~12v to the normal operating voltage of 14.5v that those same parts see when the engine is running. What were you sending to the lights, and how was that backfeeding?
@@flyryde I set the output to 14.0 v. Before and after installation I verified output stability with an input voltage range of 11-14v. I believe the backfeed was tiny, especially after installing the diodes, but enough for the ecu to pickup, causing the fault code. My guess is it has to do the common ground circuit used for the tails.
If you used them the same as I do, with only voltage increased to the amount that the lights see when the car is on, it’ll be fine. If you go beyond that you’ll be gambling for sure
Chris!! Great video man!! Thank you 🙏!! So can I use this product to brighten my DLRs on my C250 M-Benz? I noticed my DLRSs run at a lower brightness level when the headlights come on. I replaced the headlight bulbs with LEDs and now the DLRs look weak. You think this will work for me?
The circuit responsible for running them at night, is powering them up differently than the DRL function (that turns off with the low beams). Chances are, adding source voltage to your lights won’t increase brightness, because they’re likely regulated within the actual housings.
It’s the same way since all the power in the sequencer is just pass through. I’d do it way upstream before the power branches out to passenger and drivers sides (if you can find that).
hey, I hope you are well, I wanted to ask you what is the safe voltage for some led taillights which I want to make brightness boost, the particular led taillights come from a Kia Picanto 2020 and I don't want to break them with an excess of voltage.
Its effectively a tradeoff between brightness and longevity - and not a linear one at that. At some point the life expectancy will start to drastically drop - to the point of essentially immediately becoming DEDs (dark emitting diodes 😜...) And it depends on what sort of LED, how it's mounted, how well heatsink it is, does it have internal regulating circuitry, etc. I've seen SMD LEDs melt the solder that holds them to the circuit board w/o themselves at that point having failed (le once cooled down we resoldered the connection and it was back working...)
Now setup for current readings and do it again 😳😎 it's the amperage the does the work, voltage gets you there, and your resulting wattage will come out in either light or heat which is why you cant run high-power LEDs as singles without a Driver. 😂 Or one of those 50watt 6ohm resistors 👀🔥. Always better to generate light vs the heat Ohms Law Volts x Amps = Watts The LED data sheet will usually tell you about how far you can push. And if your LED is a constant current LED then voltage won't matter much anyway... Always a trade off somewhere. They have those in dual volt too BTW. REALLY handy for Blue GHOZT when you need both 5v and 12v. Some regulate the current too. Search CCCV Regulator
Addressable led lights take 5v or 12v. You shouldn't be pushing them any harder than what they are designed for. If you have voltage drop that is affecting colour and brightness closer to the end of the strip you need to to look at voltage injection.
You should change the title to " How to easily damage your DRL ". No offence BUT, the more voltage you put in, the more heat you get, which is a real problem for any kind of LED.
I was just about to comment this. I experienced this issue with my headlights that I built. The 14.4V ran the LEDs really hot. Ever since I’ve used regulators to keep it at 12V.
@@rushilkisoon if you increase the voltage specified by the manufacturer, even only by 1V, they're gonna run hotter and they're gonna fail really soon ... something that you really want to avoid on a custom build, coz you're gonna have to take everything apart, again :-))
Yes, if you are using LEDs that are maxxed out at 12v, you’ll need voltage regulators. If you have parts that can handle way beyond that 12v, or even beyond Engine-On environment (14.5v ish), such as just about every single non regulated LED bulb on the market, then you’re fine. We’re simulating normal operational use, not overclocking beyond a safe setting. Make sense?
@@flyryde there’s no such thing as “non-regulated” led on the market, why do you think they are connected in series and have those resistors in place? The fact that you’re not using them, it’s a different story.
@@alincatalin6087 lol, listen man, I know you think you’re understanding this, but I’m trying to help you. LED bulbs, aren’t regulating the power, then sending that regulated power to resistors that then send that power to the LEDs. LEDs have resistors to drop the voltage from the car to safe levels. Again, there are no voltage regulators. That means if you have resistors on those LEDs that push them to the limits at 12v, then simply starting the car would overpower all the LEDs. Not just a little bit, they’d all fry. That’s from just going up 2.5v. Don’t believe me, just start your car, turn on the parking lights, and probe the + wire with a volt meter. 13.5-14.5v Are the LEDs frying? No. Is a boost converter boosting amperage? No. Is it take the available current, and increasing the voltage, while slightly robbing the amp output to jump that 2.5v when off (and not having to do so when the source voltage is equal to the set output voltage)? Bingo. I’m gonna leave this alone now, lol, but I hope that helps. I dumb it down to make it accessible and understandable to non nerds.
Do you realize that these are a step down voltage regulator? They're not to raise the voltage. Did it go from either 36,24, 12 volts down to 5volts 2amps. I don't think these are the pieces you need for this application.
Or better yet, “How To give your LEDs the same power they get when your car is running, because your voltage goes up when the alternator is charging the battery, which effects voltage to all of the lights in the car that are designed to operate in both 12v and 14.5v environments even though people assume they only ever see 12v.” Im pretty sure that ones too long. I’ll stick with my existing title 👌
@@flyryde With your bolts it might be perfectly fine. It's just if someone with diy, custom led setup might use that converter and end up frying there leds. The leds on your bolt might be running quite below there absolute max ratings and therefore they might benefit from this. Like a SMD led I've been researching puts out 26lm at 65ma continuous current, it's max is 150, I could push 130ma safely (with proper heat managment) it would put out almost 50lm.
@@flyryde Just want to say, I love all your videos and have watched a lot of them and learned a lot. Just think it would be interesting how much the current is also increased by and maybe what those bolts leds are rated for.
@@flyryde But you forget one of the most common thing in vehicles :D they were designed to handle that voltage and the extra heat generated by them, or better yet, most LED lights in cars use a VOLTAGE REGULATOR so they stay on constant 5V/12V.
My new Book: www.FlyRyde.com/start
Hey Chris, doesn't seem like you added the link for the converter. I'm guessing this is the opposite of a step-down converter I once bought by Drok.
Leds are current driven right? So is that module also increasing Amps along with voltage Therefore making them brighter? This would make the them run much hotter and potentially fry them once they have been left on for longer period of time...
@@tacoreapermonir8725 That may be the case, yes. As we saw, Chris felt the heat rising and hurriedly turned them off. LEDs are less tolerant to heat and will fail faster. A marginal increase will still impact its useful life, but duration at a time and frequency will dictate by just how much sooner they would fail. Now, if we are talking about DRLs, a reasonable level of brightness during the day should be effective for what they are intended to do. In some conditions - weather or otherwise - there may be a need for a momentary increase in brightness that hopefully would not hurt much since the added brightness will not be sustained or become a default setting. At night time, DRLs should be dimmed and not run at maximum intensity. And this trick will make it a problem for those who are looking for attention. The wrong type of attention would likely keep them using it responsibly.
@@teligon He only felt the heat of the converter rising as he had to input voltage too low.
@@teligon He felt the converter get hot. As he said the input voltage was too low so it was working much harder to put out 14.5v. There are other ways to dim I think. Just depends what your setup is.
Awesome video! This is what I have been trying to find for weeks! Great video thank you!!!!
Nothing but support!!
Does the LED circuit get overheated @ the increased voltage?
You need a buck boost board, the doctor dc converters are awesome, but a boost only will go up if the input is higher than set voltage, it can't be set lower than the input, that is why the buck boost converter is needed!
OK Chris,
I play with LED lights quite often. LED light requires constant current and amperage to work for a long time. As you increase the voltage, you increase the intensity of the light, but the brighter they are, the more they heat up. The hotter they are, the faster they will go out. As your fan and friend, the brighter the light the better cooling will be needed!
P.S. - I exclude situations in which you have to supply, let say, consecutive 5 pcs (3.3V) LED. Yes then you will need 16.5V from a 12V battery !!! :) (this is just an example)
So you think running LEDs that are normally used to seeing 14.5v when the engine is on, with 14.5v when the engine is off, is exposing them to more heat than normal?
@@flyryde Absolutely not!
If the LED is suitable for 14.5V, it does not matter whether you apply this voltage to it when the car is off or working.
What I wanted to say is that if the LED is designed to operate at 14.5V when you apply a higher voltage to it, if it does not burn, it starts to glow brighter, but it also starts to emit a higher temperature and then it is good to consider a heat sink !!!
:)
simple example: 1 watt star diode operates at 3.3V with 270mA. It holds up to 3.7-3.8v. if I give him more than 3.3v it starts to glow brighter but without heat the sink does not last more than 1-2 hours and they die.
Best regards and keep moving forward with the help and guidance for young builders! :D
That's where you REALLY have to know your board and exactly what your dealing with. If the board has drivers already on it vs current limiting resistors then you wouldn't see any change at all.
From what I typically see, most boards are 3 LEDs in series with a resistor that's sized for 14.4v, otherwise it's running buck/boost ic's and whatever they can fit.
I'd love for you to make some taillights for my built, it's a 2004 Chevy Cavalier Coupe, there wasn't enough support aftermarket besides led bulbs and I'd love some LED bright and mean designs with some type of effect. Performance it has the soul of a Chevy Cobalt SS ❤ its a sleeper and grabs attention everywhere. Just need the finishing touch headlights and taillights
really enjoyed this! awesome video
It looks like the part in the video is xl6009 step up boost converter. Not the lm2596s step down buck
I didn’t see the link for the voltage adjuster with display. I want some of those for sure. They will come in very handy on after market lights on cars and motorcycles.
I was checking for it too. I once bought a step-down converter by Drok, which seems to be a popular brand. Try searching for it on Amazon for the step-UP converter that displays the voltage on the unit as he has.
JacobsParts FP5139 100W DC-DC Boost Step-up Voltage Converter Module Adjustable Power Regulator Board with LED Voltage Meter www.amazon.com/dp/B079YX761G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3HEJKDPQP03E78NMX7GC
@@teligon JacobsParts FP5139 100W DC-DC Boost Step-up Voltage Converter Module Adjustable Power Regulator Board with LED Voltage Meter www.amazon.com/dp/B079YX761G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3HEJKDPQP03E78NMX7GC
@@tribaluce1832 Well done! Thank you!
Here is the link to the Drok step-up converter.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VNDGFT6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AFHAE9RJVUMB&psc=1
Yooow that's bright. I'm gonna buy a few of these.
What will you use them for?
For sequentials, would you wire this before the trigger of sequence or after?
Ok got an 08 silverado with some aftermarket headlamps with the c bar style halos. I recently pulled the garbage that came in them and replaced with some quality blue led little mini type strip things. The way it's set up is the leds just shine into the end of this plastic light diffusing bar ( sorry for my ignorance with terminology). They turned out pretty good so far , but you know, could always be brighter . I have no issues with voltage. Big 4 upgrade on my truck with volt readout on dash and truck stays right around 13.8- 14.1 once you turn on any lights. It'll drop to mid 12s during day with lights all off. Being an 08, it's go that RVC that always screws with the voltage, but my electrical is as solid as it gets. Double and triple checked all my grounds etc.
So would/could I just add one of these inline , one per side, to crank up the brightness?
2 other quick questions if you have the time. 1- is there any way of painting a reflector bowl for the high beam black and it still actually produce light? My low beam is a projector and entire housing I painted high gloss black, and that big chrome high beam reflector just doesn't go.
Other question- these little volt thingamajigs have any business being around a car audio system?
Thanks for your time in advance. You're videos have proven extremely helpful in leading me to believe I can do these things, and the subsequent devastation I've inflicted on my truck 😂
1: I guess?
2: no
3: no
hi bro..i look your vidoe is so awsome...can i give you one headlight Exora (malaysian) and change it to one brave led n bold plus cool looking?
I definitely want to see the brighter version of the cappuccino
I'm trying to add these to my car to dim my main headlights a bit and brighten my accesory lights. Driving in town you dont need really bright lights and can show off the accesory lights a bit more.
Your links show a step-down buck. Wouldn't we need a step-up buck to increase the output voltage? Does anyone know if you can use the buck converter to brighten a turn signal led? And if it would cause any issues like hyper flash?
Why didn’t you put a link for the power briefcase you got there
you ever used the wire strippers on old car wiring? Or just new wires? Groovy vid my dude 👍
I have many times 👍 what kinda old car are you thinking about? Anything specific?
@@flyryde my brothers and I are working on a 53 Nash. We have to rewire. It sat in a barn for years and the mice ate most the wire 🤣
this wouldn't be any good for sequential light though would it?
Hey, I bought the circuit board with the screen on it, for changing output voltage, but it doesn't increase voltage by much. I was wondering if I was doing something wrong? I'm using a battery pack with 8 D batteries for 12v, I wanted to crank up the voltage to my lights but it isn't going above 12.3v. Do you have any idea what I can do differently?
I tried these on my custom led tails. I set up two on each side; one for brake and one for sequential turn. My Corolla did not like this. I threw an accelerator error deeming the throttle non responsive. Fortunately I was not in traffic and just pulled over and went back and bypassed the up-converters. Again, fortunately I installed plugs so this was easy. I learned the code often is a result of current backfeed. Then I installed diodes on all converters. This helped, but still threw the code and disabled the throttle, this time in slow traffic with long durations of brakes on.
For now the converters are back on the shelf…
What was the purpose of using them in the first place? What are you trying to do?
@@flyryde I was increasing voltage a bit as you were in the video to brighten up my lights
@@FishHawk1 in the video, I increased voltage from ~12v to the normal operating voltage of 14.5v that those same parts see when the engine is running. What were you sending to the lights, and how was that backfeeding?
@@flyryde I set the output to 14.0 v. Before and after installation I verified output stability with an input voltage range of 11-14v.
I believe the backfeed was tiny, especially after installing the diodes, but enough for the ecu to pickup, causing the fault code.
My guess is it has to do the common ground circuit used for the tails.
What was the link for the pcb's you get to solder LED's right on them out of the package
La Cadena Vodka? Helps clean the soldering iron?
That has many uses with sensitive electronics that require a constant voltage
Nice one
Is Edward
Could i use the items to increase my under glow foe my car
If you used them the same as I do, with only voltage increased to the amount that the lights see when the car is on, it’ll be fine.
If you go beyond that you’ll be gambling for sure
Chris!! Great video man!! Thank you 🙏!!
So can I use this product to brighten my DLRs on my C250 M-Benz? I noticed my DLRSs run at a lower brightness level when the headlights come on. I replaced the headlight bulbs with LEDs and now the DLRs look weak. You think this will work for me?
The circuit responsible for running them at night, is powering them up differently than the DRL function (that turns off with the low beams).
Chances are, adding source voltage to your lights won’t increase brightness, because they’re likely regulated within the actual housings.
DRLS are supposed to dim when u turn on your headlights. It would be stupid if they didnt.
Using this buck converter, do you install it before the sequential switchback controller or splice it between the controller and the LED light strip?
It’s the same way since all the power in the sequencer is just pass through. I’d do it way upstream before the power branches out to passenger and drivers sides (if you can find that).
Will they work on led headlights
this would work really well on an old 6 volt cars that you need 12 volt lights on
i like most boxes...especially juice boxes😏
hey, I hope you are well, I wanted to ask you what is the safe voltage for some led taillights which I want to make brightness boost, the particular led taillights come from a Kia Picanto 2020 and I don't want to break them with an excess of voltage.
Its effectively a tradeoff between brightness and longevity - and not a linear one at that. At some point the life expectancy will start to drastically drop - to the point of essentially immediately becoming DEDs (dark emitting diodes 😜...) And it depends on what sort of LED, how it's mounted, how well heatsink it is, does it have internal regulating circuitry, etc. I've seen SMD LEDs melt the solder that holds them to the circuit board w/o themselves at that point having failed (le once cooled down we resoldered the connection and it was back working...)
Can they be used with profile pivot led switchbacks?
No link for the buck converters were in the description.
Fixed it 😅
Thanks.
Now setup for current readings and do it again 😳😎 it's the amperage the does the work, voltage gets you there, and your resulting wattage will come out in either light or heat which is why you cant run high-power LEDs as singles without a Driver. 😂 Or one of those 50watt 6ohm resistors 👀🔥. Always better to generate light vs the heat
Ohms Law
Volts x Amps = Watts
The LED data sheet will usually tell you about how far you can push. And if your LED is a constant current LED then voltage won't matter much anyway... Always a trade off somewhere.
They have those in dual volt too BTW. REALLY handy for Blue GHOZT when you need both 5v and 12v. Some regulate the current too.
Search CCCV Regulator
Is there anything that can make rgb leds brighter
How to make the LED lifetime very short? More Volt, Not mor cooler
Does higher voltage mean lesser life for the light?
Yes , eventually it’ll die a bit faster but it depends ,
Usually leds have some wiggle room , but yea normally they would die a bit faster
hey so i got the unit and it was reading 12.5
Yeah, brighten that little car for him. He'll quite likely appreciate it.
Would this work with addressable led lights?
Addressable led lights take 5v or 12v. You shouldn't be pushing them any harder than what they are designed for. If you have voltage drop that is affecting colour and brightness closer to the end of the strip you need to to look at voltage injection.
I have some addressables that bright. Jump over to my channel most of what I do is high power addressable
I run these addressable and direct to harness simultaneously.
hillbillyhydrographicsandvinyl.com/products/led-5050-6-channel-wyr-rgb-bipolarity
Instead of wiring the 9 volt batterys you can plug one into the other in parallel
That’s what I did, but just not enough balls in the power source
You should change the title to " How to easily damage your DRL ". No offence BUT, the more voltage you put in, the more heat you get, which is a real problem for any kind of LED.
I was just about to comment this. I experienced this issue with my headlights that I built. The 14.4V ran the LEDs really hot. Ever since I’ve used regulators to keep it at 12V.
@@rushilkisoon if you increase the voltage specified by the manufacturer, even only by 1V, they're gonna run hotter and they're gonna fail really soon ... something that you really want to avoid on a custom build, coz you're gonna have to take everything apart, again :-))
Yes, if you are using LEDs that are maxxed out at 12v, you’ll need voltage regulators. If you have parts that can handle way beyond that 12v, or even beyond Engine-On environment (14.5v ish), such as just about every single non regulated LED bulb on the market, then you’re fine.
We’re simulating normal operational use, not overclocking beyond a safe setting. Make sense?
@@flyryde there’s no such thing as “non-regulated” led on the market, why do you think they are connected in series and have those resistors in place? The fact that you’re not using them, it’s a different story.
@@alincatalin6087 lol, listen man, I know you think you’re understanding this, but I’m trying to help you. LED bulbs, aren’t regulating the power, then sending that regulated power to resistors that then send that power to the LEDs.
LEDs have resistors to drop the voltage from the car to safe levels. Again, there are no voltage regulators. That means if you have resistors on those LEDs that push them to the limits at 12v, then simply starting the car would overpower all the LEDs.
Not just a little bit, they’d all fry. That’s from just going up 2.5v. Don’t believe me, just start your car, turn on the parking lights, and probe the + wire with a volt meter. 13.5-14.5v
Are the LEDs frying? No. Is a boost converter boosting amperage? No. Is it take the available current, and increasing the voltage, while slightly robbing the amp output to jump that 2.5v when off (and not having to do so when the source voltage is equal to the set output voltage)? Bingo.
I’m gonna leave this alone now, lol, but I hope that helps. I dumb it down to make it accessible and understandable to non nerds.
Over driving those LED’s is a sure way to shorten their service life. Buck/boost all you like it’ll end in tears!
Do you realize that these are a step down voltage regulator? They're not to raise the voltage. Did it go from either 36,24, 12 volts down to 5volts 2amps. I don't think these are the pieces you need for this application.
13.9 with a margin of error
yaaa I was wrong
You can't see a voltage pic in microsecond with your naked eyes!!
the title should be "how to burn your LED DRLs without proper cooling"
Or better yet, “How To give your LEDs the same power they get when your car is running, because your voltage goes up when the alternator is charging the battery, which effects voltage to all of the lights in the car that are designed to operate in both 12v and 14.5v environments even though people assume they only ever see 12v.”
Im pretty sure that ones too long. I’ll stick with my existing title 👌
@@flyryde With your bolts it might be perfectly fine. It's just if someone with diy, custom led setup might use that converter and end up frying there leds. The leds on your bolt might be running quite below there absolute max ratings and therefore they might benefit from this. Like a SMD led I've been researching puts out 26lm at 65ma continuous current, it's max is 150, I could push 130ma safely (with proper heat managment) it would put out almost 50lm.
@@flyryde Just want to say, I love all your videos and have watched a lot of them and learned a lot. Just think it would be interesting how much the current is also increased by and maybe what those bolts leds are rated for.
@@tacoreapermonir8725 the amps go down after this booster, not up.
@@flyryde But you forget one of the most common thing in vehicles :D they were designed to handle that voltage and the extra heat generated by them, or better yet, most LED lights in cars use a VOLTAGE REGULATOR so they stay on constant 5V/12V.
That will be bad if your car battery is drained
This video is BS. That’s a buck and u can’t get more power