hey man!! im kinda new to youtube but ive been building go karts, minibikes, racing mowers, bar stools and anything else i can fit a briggs onto since i got a welder for my 12th bday (im 24 now) but i like your builds and subbed! cant wait to c this bad larry rip! lol but one problem that ive had with spring tensioners is when u let off the gas the slack side of the chain becomes the tight side and vise versa(its kinda like having ur clutch on the wrong side of the belt) making it possible to loose the chain under deceleration. one way to avoid this is to make an adjustable limiter under the tensioner... hope this helps!!
also ive been noticing that with most all racing mower builds on youtube, akerman is a very overlooked part of front end geometry. its a law of four wheeled steering that states the inside wheel should turn slightly sharper than the outside to compensate for the smaller radius that the inside wheel wants to follow. this (along with some caster) really helps with the posi "plowing" issue. the diy gokarts forum has some really good info on this and how to correct go kart spindles theres a couple ways of going about it but "forward facing steering akerman fix" is the thread u want. it will REALLY help u in the corners! i mean night and day difference its crazy
ian cournoyer Thanks. Yeah I understand all that. Actually most mowers that I come across have Ackerman setup. Not sure if you can tell but both my mowers have it. I have fully adjustable on this build but with the CP mower its more fixed but it handles great for being such a heavy mower. Thanks for watching and if you have any info that would help, share away :-)
Haul'N Grass nice yeah i noticed the spindle angle on the cp and i love that u built up that briggs oppy for it its really cool! and sometimes weight can help (especially keeping the wheels on the ground). but all i saw were 90* forward facing spindles on this one and never get a clear shot of the bellcrank in the middle so i figured id say something. any new vids soon? i know ur probly busy i just really like this build...this style murray widebody is my favorite racing mower platform from mild to wild theyre awsome
On the FXT I have a fully adjustable front end. On the CP is just set at 10*. I love the sound of built oppys and the power they have. This is my first vtwin built and im looking forward to hearing it run. Right now im currently on vacation but ill be back next week and will have a video coming soon
Here the link to the exact kit I bought. www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/1-25-od-1-80-radius-16-gauge-mild-steel-super-bk-125.html its $58 and with shipping I think it was around $90 but I got a 2 or 3 day shipping so you can always get it cheaper
hey random question for ya: do u think that the spark plug position on the oppy has an affect on its power at all? wondering if any single cyl head would fit on one (11/12 hp head looks kinda similar to my 14 oppy never seen a 25 or 28 up close tho) or if uve ever seen a head with a hole machined where the plug would go on a single? ive thought of trying it with some spare heads i have... i can weld aluminum and i have a drill press and the right tap for spark plugs id have to weld the fins together for bracing then drill but i think itd fire better. or imagine dual plugs lol now im gettin silly
I have thought about it and from what ive read on Heymow they wont bolt up and people have tried it but didnt feel that it helped any. The biggest problem is the spark plug hitting the top of the piston. On the stock heads there's just not enough material in the head after shaving part of the fins to keep the spark plug in place without stripping it. Ive seen it done but I dont think it wil have any performance adding capabilities. If you go with a good cam and billet rods with AVS pistons you wont be disappointed! If you try it let me know how it worked out for you. You can also check out www.heymow.com and search it on there to see what other people have done
Haul'N Grass ya i creep heymow sometimes seems like a bunch of guys trying to sell ecc stuff maybe i dont look into it enough? but whatever. id ad material to the head before i drilled cuz i got an aluminium setup for my mig. i just think i could run richer and burn better idk ill let u know if i do it. but i run stock internals and exhaust springs with oil mods and rev to 5200 on dual 25$ tilly hl340 clone carbs does great its a 14 hp oppy (had it for 2 years like that only had to do rings once) and it will smoke my buddys mowstly stock ungoverned 20 hp intek vtwin we weigh bout the same with very similar gearing but we race in my backyard so no rules lol. i would try to find a track near me but i hate oval racing and rules lol... also i ground my intake lobes a bit to make the valve snap shut right at the start of comp stroke i noticed that most briggs intake valves dont fully shut till halfway up the stroke really makes a difference
There's articles about that in the flat head section. Oppys run great with even just a little modifying as long as you know what makes the oppys tick. If you have the equipment I say try it. It wont make anything worse because your still getting a spark. Can only make it better. Ive been racing for many years so knowing the rules is second nature. Most rules are in place for safety but there are some that make you wonder why they went that route. You can also grind a little off the bottom of the cam lobe (old hot rodders secret) and achieve higher lift. Just follow the arch as you grind but only take no more than .002 off. You can also add a .020 shim under the valve springs and it will rev just a little higher due to higher spring pressure (stops valve floating). Keep me updated if you decided to tackle the spark plugs
hey man!! im kinda new to youtube but ive been building go karts, minibikes, racing mowers, bar stools and anything else i can fit a briggs onto since i got a welder for my 12th bday (im 24 now) but i like your builds and subbed! cant wait to c this bad larry rip! lol but one problem that ive had with spring tensioners is when u let off the gas the slack side of the chain becomes the tight side and vise versa(its kinda like having ur clutch on the wrong side of the belt) making it possible to loose the chain under deceleration. one way to avoid this is to make an adjustable limiter under the tensioner... hope this helps!!
also ive been noticing that with most all racing mower builds on youtube, akerman is a very overlooked part of front end geometry. its a law of four wheeled steering that states the inside wheel should turn slightly sharper than the outside to compensate for the smaller radius that the inside wheel wants to follow. this (along with some caster) really helps with the posi "plowing" issue. the diy gokarts forum has some really good info on this and how to correct go kart spindles theres a couple ways of going about it but "forward facing steering akerman fix" is the thread u want. it will REALLY help u in the corners! i mean night and day difference its crazy
ian cournoyer Thanks. Yeah I understand all that. Actually most mowers that I come across have Ackerman setup. Not sure if you can tell but both my mowers have it. I have fully adjustable on this build but with the CP mower its more fixed but it handles great for being such a heavy mower. Thanks for watching and if you have any info that would help, share away :-)
Haul'N Grass nice yeah i noticed the spindle angle on the cp and i love that u built up that briggs oppy for it its really cool! and sometimes weight can help (especially keeping the wheels on the ground). but all i saw were 90* forward facing spindles on this one and never get a clear shot of the bellcrank in the middle so i figured id say something. any new vids soon? i know ur probly busy i just really like this build...this style murray widebody is my favorite racing mower platform from mild to wild theyre awsome
On the FXT I have a fully adjustable front end. On the CP is just set at 10*. I love the sound of built oppys and the power they have. This is my first vtwin built and im looking forward to hearing it run. Right now im currently on vacation but ill be back next week and will have a video coming soon
it's great to see u again great video tractor is getting there
Thanks Jim. Glad to see your still following after taking forever lol I ready to get it on the track!
i'll be hear if i don't take another heart attact
YIKES dont do that lol
where you get that pipe at or was it at a shop
Here the link to the exact kit I bought. www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/1-25-od-1-80-radius-16-gauge-mild-steel-super-bk-125.html its $58 and with shipping I think it was around $90 but I got a 2 or 3 day shipping so you can always get it cheaper
Thanks
Anytime bud
hey random question for ya: do u think that the spark plug position on the oppy has an affect on its power at all? wondering if any single cyl head would fit on one (11/12 hp head looks kinda similar to my 14 oppy never seen a 25 or 28 up close tho) or if uve ever seen a head with a hole machined where the plug would go on a single? ive thought of trying it with some spare heads i have... i can weld aluminum and i have a drill press and the right tap for spark plugs id have to weld the fins together for bracing then drill but i think itd fire better. or imagine dual plugs lol now im gettin silly
I have thought about it and from what ive read on Heymow they wont bolt up and people have tried it but didnt feel that it helped any. The biggest problem is the spark plug hitting the top of the piston. On the stock heads there's just not enough material in the head after shaving part of the fins to keep the spark plug in place without stripping it. Ive seen it done but I dont think it wil have any performance adding capabilities. If you go with a good cam and billet rods with AVS pistons you wont be disappointed! If you try it let me know how it worked out for you. You can also check out www.heymow.com and search it on there to see what other people have done
Haul'N Grass ya i creep heymow sometimes seems like a bunch of guys trying to sell ecc stuff maybe i dont look into it enough? but whatever. id ad material to the head before i drilled cuz i got an aluminium setup for my mig. i just think i could run richer and burn better idk ill let u know if i do it. but i run stock internals and exhaust springs with oil mods and rev to 5200 on dual 25$ tilly hl340 clone carbs does great its a 14 hp oppy (had it for 2 years like that only had to do rings once) and it will smoke my buddys mowstly stock ungoverned 20 hp intek vtwin we weigh bout the same with very similar gearing but we race in my backyard so no rules lol. i would try to find a track near me but i hate oval racing and rules lol... also i ground my intake lobes a bit to make the valve snap shut right at the start of comp stroke i noticed that most briggs intake valves dont fully shut till halfway up the stroke really makes a difference
There's articles about that in the flat head section. Oppys run great with even just a little modifying as long as you know what makes the oppys tick. If you have the equipment I say try it. It wont make anything worse because your still getting a spark. Can only make it better. Ive been racing for many years so knowing the rules is second nature. Most rules are in place for safety but there are some that make you wonder why they went that route. You can also grind a little off the bottom of the cam lobe (old hot rodders secret) and achieve higher lift. Just follow the arch as you grind but only take no more than .002 off. You can also add a .020 shim under the valve springs and it will rev just a little higher due to higher spring pressure (stops valve floating). Keep me updated if you decided to tackle the spark plugs