Thank you for this video. It is one of the best on TH-cam. However, I would like to point out that both temperature and humidity needs to be measured. The output needs to be compared to a Heat Index in order to measure the "cooling effect". These things are a little complicated since the variables you're measuring are non linear. But, the conclusions you shared seem correct to me 👍
Thank you for this video It was very informative. We have been using a swamp cooler for years in California since the electricity rates are very high. We have solar now and still use it but it saved us about $600 a month at the very beginning before we got solar. One very good tip I would give is when the weather is cool at night leave the cooler on but turn off the water. This will bring in cold air all night long and when it starts to heat up turn on the water and your house will already be cool.
A bad side of swap cooler is that most of people put them outside, and thats not good in places with al lot of humidity. The inside get so damn bad and nasty. Is not better to install that inside?
It was 90 and 12% humidity today in AZ. My swamp cooler was so cold it made me shiver The best way to optimize these things is to rig more nozzles so the water completely soaks the media.
My home ac went out I have NO idea how to use my portable swamp cooler in my trailer or if it works idk wtf to do. My ac was replaced LAST YEAR! ENTIRE SYSTEM 18K EXCEPT THE PEDESTAL for the circuit breaker!!!! They want 9k to replace it!!!!! F that the issue is I pay for the lot so the park replaces it thank God but I don't think it's getting done today
Yep I used pvc pipe to run all the way around the inside of the cooler and drilled lots of tinny holes in the pipe with a Dremel tool. I get nice evenly soaked pads. Last month we has a couple of 110F days and it was 72 in my trailer.
Have mutiple small ice blocks. Rotate them 2 @ a time. Turn the Cool feature on and off every 15 minutes or so. That way, water lasts longer. Put a gallon of water in refrigerator. This way water is already cold and ice packs will keep it cool.
Seems like adding a cheap $200 water chiller that you use for a TIG welding torch or a laser engraver would keep the tub of water much colder thus producing colder air. The chiller would keep a constant cold water as opposed to ice which would melt 🤔
Question: How would I dry incoming humid outside air (feed air) for my outdoor evaporate unit. I’m thinking of making a heat exchanger completely powered by solar and nighttime battery. My heat exchanger would be embedded in sponge foam and cedar chips. Ductwork will be aluminum cans glued together to form the back and forth air conduit. Blower will “suck@ air through cans and back to house.
I did automotive, electrical and HVAC, therefore a/c in auto and residential, and swamp coolers. The best results are counterintuitive. Coolers work best in direct sun than in shade. Consider this, air absorbs a vapor easier and more than a liquid, it's like comparing 1 drop room temp water into room temp pan vs same drop into hot pan. Very visual difference... -Proper air flow.....One room, 8x10x10'height is, and needs 800cfm. These cheap little portable coolers aren't worth it at all. Look up tutorials from these guys cooling greenhouses for design ideas, but match your fan to your house..... Start with the hottest, upstairs, south facing room, mount a box fan/aspen pad setup to a window, then open up a window across the house, to the same proportion...... the air will flow from in window a directly to and out window b, with no layover in rooms it passes. You can call that lazy or efficient, your choice... To distribute the cooling evenly you have to play with window openings, with the strategy of making the hottest rooms the easiest path, via bigger openings. In ALL cooling, airflow makes it or breaks it. Bring air in a 12"hole, fully open every window, it achieves nothing. 12" in & 11.9999" out is perfect, just the ever so slightest positive pressure.... Tissue test.... At each opening hold up a small tissue or sheet of toilet paper. Best air flow meter, ever made, because every house has it. If it ain't flappin, it ain't flowing. - Next thing is make sure your pad or towel or whatever your using, is fully saturated... Air is sneakylazy, and even for air, swimming is more work than not swimming..... Visual test important, but also, do temp test....never recirculate indoor air. Outside air passing through, or don't bother... To test, take temp at hottest point where air outside is entering the pad then inside where it comes through. Do this test with each can speed, and that will tell you which is best for you...That says it all. I'm at Colorado altitude, humidity is consistently around 15%. Adding water to that pushes it to like 40-60% and on my setups I'm consistently nearly always 20- 25° cooler than outside.... Coolers only work in places with dry air... So... East coast, Texas, get a/c!! -lastly, if you have an upstairs that is hell, and a middle level that's just kinda hot, focus on just the upstairs, and middle level will cool some by default..... It requires creative thought, but it's idiot simple. I kicked myself for all the suffering before landing in the trade..... Must be enough air. Must be 100% pulled through wet medium, no unwet air may enter. Must exhaust to outside, as much air as comes in, never more. Ambient air temp& humidity will affect performance, so there can be off days on a perfect system, but overall, significant and pleasant cooling.
@@TutorialGeek many thousand hours learning, installing, training. Mini split is a pretty amazing technology also... Especially in places like Florida, New York, Texas.... Keep in mind the way things in the world work... Heat rises, so don't try to make it go down 2 flights of stairs.... As a master electrician, qualified HVAC, and well trained automotive tech, any monkey can do anything any trade does. Swamp cooler saves money, but it's distraction from the fact there is abundance of, and... free health, free power, free heat, free cold,free motion(like car engine). We need to reclaim them, implement them, and share them
Dude, you speak the truth. I live in desert S.W and all the things you mention do matter. After 40 years of molly-coddling an Evap Cooler - We've pretty much got the details and variables figured out. In order of importance: 1. DEW POINT. (below 48, but 40 or less is heavenly) 2. Enough Air Flow for size of house 3. Outside Temp. also matters (above 105 - 107 degrees? Forget it. Turn on AC) 4. All windows open about 1/4 to 1/3 5. Really clean, wet pads 6. Reduce cool air loss in and around the sheet metal box of cooler 7. We believe aluminum rectangle ducts work better at sending cool air over the flexible ribbed plastic ductwork < Put in nearly ALL newer homes now.
Hey Josh great information thanks for your comment I'm wondering I do live on the tip of Southern Long Island and yes humidity is off the hook out here what about running at dehumidifier on junction with a swamp cooler is that a is that something that would help would it work what were the just be a waste of time thank you either way if you reply I thank you greatly and if you don't reply I just thank you LOL okay kidding aside it would be great if you could reply excuse any typos misspelled words stuff like that I'm blind and I'm using speech to text it has its own unique take on the English language believe me you're probably reading its results sincerely David Raphael AKA Bob the blind bedroom guitars
I bought a mastercool same as bonair durango slim cooler . When outside air 85F and low fan speed cooled air stoped at 80F . Then made a cooler pads looks like card board and a 2nd water pump to increase cooling media and water flow . Unfortunately never set up . Decided to buy new AC unit . But YES more water flow might be cooler but if too wet the fan on high might suck in water droplets . Another option is pre cooling the water by pump in small chest freezer with auxiliary thermostat at 40F .
That is the question I asked a couple of commenters who seem to be knowledgeable on and haven't got a reply I'm assuming you haven't got a reply because I haven't noticed one I'm blind so it's possible I missed it because my screen reader only tells me what's under my finger and sometimes it doesn't even do that LOL your comment is quite a bit older than mine and I'm hoping that maybe you've got an answer to that or that you've tried it because it's my only saving grace at this point between if if it works then I'm going to pull the trigger and get a really good swamp cooler if it doesn't then the hell France going to have to do thank you very much for your reply and thank you if you don't reply LOL all kidding aside thanks either way Cecily Bob the blind bedroom guitarist AKA David Raphael
With thicker pads, airflow will be restricted unless fan power is upgraded. Place the fan at least a few feet from openning to push air out ( see how firefighters push air/smokes).
Glad you did the leg work😅 Thought about it any who thank you. Love the smell of the new😮 a spin on the farm we water cooled the rabbitry with 10'x8' frames filled with the excelsior. A whole wall about 15 of those frames , with pvc with dew drops to spray the pads and toliet tanks on both ends of the building 14:01 so the kids on the neighborhood would come and play in the buildings ,that was in ElCajon CA Here in Las Vegas my son has 2 comercial mastercools one for his house (12"pads ) and one for his garage (8") He says the 8" are cooler? I think that also I have a commercial trophy that I use 8" pads. When you have kids and pets evaporated coolers are the best someone is always leaving the door open and we all know AC right out the door 😅 along$to. Thanks again
Hello sir, I noticed that you used infrafed thermometer to measure the air temperature. in reality these devices measure the temperature of the surface you are aiming at, you can't use them to measure the temperature of the air, as indicated by the makers of these devices. so what you have measured in reality is the change in the water temperature not that of the air temperature. My opinion is that there is no infuluance of the temperature of the water on the efficiency of the cooler because the cooling capacity is related to latent heat of evaporation which happens at all water temperatures between solidification and evaporation.
Excellent video We tried the evaporative cooler in coastal city but not efficient at all, however in dry far away city from coast, and excellent cooling. Also honeycomb carton is best
Correct. The Dew Point by the Coast just will not allow the evaporation to occur which causes the cooling effect. Dew Point is a pickle to explain, and it's not just common 'humidity' in the air. It's more about the rate at which the surface dew on the ground evaporates in the air. Evap coolers are perfect for arid areas. Oddly they are being phased out by many home owners in my arid area...😕 I think it's plain laziness... Having a big evap cooler is kind of like having a high-maintenance aunt living with you....😆
@4:11 - the air coming out of the 1st one is already much more humid ( likely ~70% humidity ) . The temp should stay constant/same for all ( evap cooling chart ).
the best tip I have figured out for these is try to use as little water as possible that still provides cooling My portable ones have dials and I let the pad get soaked full blast for 10 minutes then I turn it down to just a trickle. Water lasts a lot longer and it helps keep the humidity down which helps it feel cool. We're only talking 3 or 4 degrees at most difference but not having water condensing on your stuff is an even bigger improvement.
Just rebuilt my cooler for the year.. used the synthetic pads and of course I figured that was why my temps were higher than normal. You nailed it sir, aspen pads and honeycomb is superior.
I think what they were referring to was the water temperature doesn't make a difference when it comes to it evaporating not actually the temperature it produces when it's evaporated but that it would evaporate whether it was near freezing or boiling hot it's still going to evaporate in the air and us produce an evaporated cool not the cold is cool but cooler cool of course ice water it would be better but either way it'll work
Yeah those Aspen pads really are great I tried the synthetic pad it just did not cool as well when I rebuilt mine with the Aspen filled in all the gaps nice and tight it was ice cold almost like an AC I swear I have an aluminum roof garage when temperatures in the summertime are 110 outside without any insulation and without the cooler it's near 180° of radiant heat from the roof after doing some insulation on the ceiling and the cooler it stays livable properly around 80° inside That's a huge difference literally unbearable before you would gasp for air when you walked in now you can comfortably be in there
A dehumidifier would cancel out the evaporative cooling. And add more heat on top of that because it takes a tremendous amount of energy to run it. Think of this, water removes energy to evaporate, water releases that same energy back to condense. Same concept as leaving your freezer door open to cool the house. Physics don’t work that way.
What I find works is using both a standard A/C unit - that keeps the humidity low - AND a swamp cooler at the same time. The two complement each other nicely.
I've heard other people say that. Don't use an air conditioner with a swamp cooler. A swamp cooler needs to have a window open so that the moisture can get out. You're using your air conditioner to dehumidify and take out the moisture. Hopefully you have a hygrometer so that you're seeing what the humidity and temperature are actually doing in your house and you're not just guessing that it's good. That's a ridiculously large amount of energy you're using.
People glaze over humidity sometimes, think of humidity as a heat load cuz water takes alot of energy to change temperature vs air. Adding humidity makes your a/c work more/longer to reduce temperature of room/house. A small humidifier is fine but swamp coolers add humidity to your house which your paying for in running your a/c.
Evaporative coolers cool by evaporation, as the name implies, but also exchange heat with the water. When using ice water, the heat is being absorbed directly into the water itself. When using hot water, the heat is being absorbed by the air. Unless your freezer is outside, the heat taken out of the water in the freezer to make the ice will exit the condensor on/in the back of the freezer and into the house, thus warming the house. So if using ice, only use ice from outside of the house. If you don't have working A/C, you can also dedicate part of your outdoor/garage freezer space to producing ice every day on the days humdity is too high for evaporative coolers to work or regularly as a cooling boost. For how you can cool depends on how much ice you have in supply.
My house has an old MasterCool unit and it works well. It utilizes a MasterCool P225201A controller. I cannot bear this controller. I have no idea why it keeps adjusting its speed. The fan is so loud that I can’t stay in the room with it. Does anyone know of a quality easy to use replacement control panel?
My Dial 6800 Cooler is a little loud on HIGH only. Low is pretty much silent. (Why don't they make a Medium setting??) We have a Dial controller in our hallway that is mostly all manual. No digital anything. We wanted a LOW tech thermostat that we can adjust ourselves. Because we like to keep the blower on low, but 'chase' the thermostat down at night for Max coolness. (Because it's manual, it will just quietly turn Off when it hits the temp we set) When we 'chase' the temp down, it keeps running on low even when the house gets to the mid 60's. Which is how Mrs. Hot Flashes likes it. In the morning, as the house heats up from the outside, the cooler motor will kick in to High as it futilely attempts to bring the temp back to where we set the temp so low. This serves to also wake us up, which we don't mind. P.S. It sounds like your bearings, motor, and/or belt drive is tired or worn on your MC. And those few mechanical parts in it have to be oiled and checked each season because (1) Water ruins everything (2) Coolers are just Needy Nellies. Maybe have a professional Evap tech look at it - If you can find one.
@@k.hendrickson8735 Thank you for taking the time to reply and the suggestions. I am selling this house. Any fool idea the designer could think of was done to this home when it was built. I wasn’t smart to know they were bad ideas until I had been here a while. I will fix anything broken and throw in a new membrane. I don’t want to deal with this place and the 160lbs of pine needles that fall each week.
So I asked an ai how to ventilate the house when using a swamp cooler. It said I should get cross ventilation going by having one side of the house sucking in air and the other blowing out air. Idk if it’s even possible to get one side to suck in air with negative pressure because they all just spew out air equally in every window. Is this possible and effective? Seems like it would just let in uncool air by doing that tbh
Here is what I do: Turn on the swamp cooler. On the opposite end of the house I open a single window and put in a window fan that blows air out. Honestly, it is probably not necessary to have a fan but I think it helps with the overall flow.
If one has an efficient whole house evap cooler - You'd be surprised at the air output that 1 HP motor can push out! When we first turn it on at the beginning of a season. LOL, if enough windows are not open for venting out, it has pushed the door out of my hand and slammed it shut. That was on High.
@@TutorialGeek If this is just a little bitty house and a little evap cooler, fine. But there is a literal mathematical formulation for how many, and how much, your windows NEED TO BE OPENED to allow proper outflow from your damp air cooler. I found it on the web. I think it was from an Australian cooler company. Sorry, but I cannot remember where.
NO! NO. Exact opposite. Open all windows according to the OUTPUT of forced air from your Evap Cooler. There's an actual chart somewhere out there on the internet. Open windows for evap. CLOSE windows for AC (Which keeps re-using your inside air)
Issue 1 what was the difference between indoor an outdoor temperature, 2 the most critical what was the humidity level indoor an out door on the 1st hot to cold water test.. there is a evaporative cooler calculator so you know what speed an cfm you need to install.. I live in a rather dry hea.. the dryer the air is the better the cooler works..
I've had a whole house Evap Cooler for over 40 years. The lower the DEW POINT, the better the cooler works. The Best net effects is 40-43 Dew Point and 10% Humidity. Even in my dry, arid area - there is a couple months when the Dew Point creeps up above 48, due to Summer storms rolling in. Then, the outside temp gets above 107 degrees, and I don't care how well you have your Evap dialed in - It cannot get the inside of a house to a livable temperature. That's when the giant energy and money depleting AC Unit goes on for about 8 to 10 weeks. There's actually not that many areas with the ideal conditions for one of these Needy Nellies.
One idea would be to add a chiller that would be used for a TIG welding torch or laser engraver. This would constantly keep the tub of water cold unlike adding ice and therefore continuously producing cold air continuously. Couple that with a great dehumidifier who's output is the swamp coolers air input.
NOPE. Sorry. Must have low, low Dew Point, and low humidity below 40% My Evap works BEST when the Dew Point is around, or under, 40; and the humidity is 10%
Very informative video, Thank you for taking the time out of your life to make it and do all the research, plus editing. It definitely helped clear up some misconceptions I had about indoor vs outdoor, plus it helped me come up with some new ideas on how to build my own.
Water evaporates best around 50 deg is what I was told. I don't know that cooling it will help unless you forgot to turn it on early enough in the day and instead you had already let the water heat up to 60 / 70 / 80
Not sure if that's a good idea dry ice is not water ice it is co2 and not recommended to put that in your house I all the windows are open probably not an issue but if the house is closed up it's going to stay inside and displace o2 you would need a lot for it to be dangerous I think but also dry ice sublimates pretty rapidly so I don't think it will help as much anyway
I've often been curious what the effect is of "crusty" pads vs new, and also sometimes the pads fall "down" a little bit making some holes where the air can pass in unobstructed by the pads, I wonder how much of a negative effect that is, or not... :)
Clean, well installed pads work the best. If they get too crusty with minerals - they are obstructing the outside air the cooler sucks in for the blower to cool and send down into the house. We USED to get 5 years out of those expensive paper honeycomb cooler pads. Now, since everything but our children is made in China, I have noticed we can barely get three years out of the honeycomb pads. So the pads cost 2X as much now, and last about 1/2 as long. I guess that's globalism. Can't speak regarding the aspen pads.
I can confirm that super crusty pads and it doesn't cool well at all, the water just runs straight down instead of soaking in. So it's like a fan instead of a cooler. Don't ask me how I know LOL...
I put the blue pads on the outside to collect the dirt and the aspen filters last longer, also a buddy of mine uses a sand disk on his grinder to clean up the aspen pads where a respirator
It's 110 degrees here and my boniair swamp cooler is blowing at 66....😮 That chart may be a lil off and my black line is in direct sun 🌞 Nevada weather..
The best has always has been Geo thermal - closed loop. - Just think 12 foot down is a constant 55 degrees every single day,. Basements are about 9 foot down, and you get a nice effect there too. I hope this helps
Get an internal ice making machine to keep making ice and dropping it in the water tray. Swamp coolers are great in hot dry climates. No so much in humid climates, that will just make you hotter and feel like you're dying. Tip number two, shade your cooler from the sun if you can.
Can u use this water of this swamp cooler......to be run inside the pipes of fan cooling units (fcu) .....(just like indoor unit of split ac ; but hey use water instead of freon gas )
The aspen pads add a subtle nice smell to the air. I don't like the synthetic pads nearly as much and I haven't tried the third alternative the narrator suggests.
Hi , can we add return air ducts near the ceiling and connect them to an exhaust to take out the hot air which will rise up. This will help in pulling out hot air and also help in cool air to be replaced near the floor where people are generally. Please do this experiment and see how much difference can it make😏
A swamp cooler works because the dry warm air causes evaporation in the pads. The heat energy is used to change liquid into gas and that energy state is used to maintain the gas form, thus the energy is lessened in the air and it is cooler. All expanding gas sucks up heat. The heat is used in the raising of the energy in the water to the gas state. Air must be from outside and a open window or door at the other end of the house is needed. Compressors get hot because the energy is being forced out of the air. Fire exstingishers are cold because of rapid gas expansion sucking up the heat.
Summary: making your pads aspen or "paper honeycomb" and "thick as possible" (and I assume with as few holes as possible) gives the most impact...see 12:00 where he says the takeaways summary.
In evaporative cooling all that matters is the airs' water saturation. It takes dry bulb temp (regular temp) and tries to get it to wet bulb temp (full saturated temp) the more efficient the media is at saturating and the drier the dry bulb air is the greater the drop. The best units are 92% effective, bad units are about 70% when you put colder ice in that isn't evaporative cooling it is heat / cooling transfer from the air to water.
If you want to do the math on it you need two things: the exact inlet air temp (your dry bulb) and humidity. Then use a web bulb calc on the net. That is the temp you could reach at 100% efficiency . Read your outlet temp and you can see your performance. The most efficient units temperature wise are phoenix manufacturing Aerocool Pro Series and Seely international breezair products. Both of these units will put out air in the 60 degree range with over 100 degrees temp in arid climates. Both come with programmable thermostats to prevent over cooling the house. Energy / cooling most efficient is the the Bonaire Durango thin window mount though it leaves much to be desired in temperature. If I remember it only has 4 in thick rigid media. If you really want to compete with air conditioning 8in should be min but 12in is the way to go.
An evaporated cooler works by putting moisture into the air, the humidity absorbs the heat. Never put hot water into a swamp cooler just use regular tap water. Your experiment of ice that other people insist is needed and works is just a temporary cooling feeling as the air is being blown over the ice it doesn't last very long and it's no different than putting a bucket of ice in front of a fan and blowing it on yourself.
Not correct heat is not transfered to matter moisture that would be still warm humid air. Heat is removed when the water molecule changes state from liquid to gas.
Great video thank you!! Was wondering what do you think I should do I have my evaporator cooler portable and I have one window in my room should I place the evaporator cooler next to the window and then just cracked my door to let the air go Down the hallway?
Great information. We use both A/C and evaporative air. For swamp cooling I installed Updux to help cool the attic, and I installed a wall mounted slim pleated cooler with 2- 18" elbows to the long hallway, with a shade on the cooler, to keep the direct sun off it. The A/C system works only when the temps are very high and the humidity is high. Venting our attic is done with eave vents a ridge vent and foil perforated over the insulation. I do want to install a dehumidifier for swamp cooling. This is next. Thank you for the tips
Hi I was thinking about getting an evaporative cooler from my room it's a small room it's got to be about $120 sq ft give or take and I live on the tip of Long Island in New York it is extremely humid here I'm wondering if I were to use a humidifier in the room in conjunction with the swamp cooler would that have a good effect will it work or will one negate the other I'd appreciate a reply if possible if not it's all good thank you sincerely David Raphael AKA Bob the blind bedroom guitarist
Add a blue pad over your paper honey pads just on the outside , the calcium will build up on the blue pad instead of the honey pad , making the honey pad last longer.
The MAIN thing is Dew Point (Not quite the same as humidity) The number has to be under around 48 dew point, and the lower, the better! Our Whole House Dial 6800 Evap Cooler MUST have those expensive, paper, honeycomb pads ($100 bucks and up each, for 30" X 40" size. 🤔 And they don't seem to last more than 3 years tops) This Dial 6800 model requires TWO 8 in. thick pads. So we've currently got 16 inches of cooler pad. It can get down to 67 degrees at night; which BTW, is the ideal sleeping temp according to scientific tests. We used to have the old-style, four sided, cooler with the natural Aspen pads. Both of us agree the old-school 4 sider did a better job of cooling - however, another variable might have been that we had hard, aluminum ductwork. Our current domicile has that flexible plastic ductwork. Most of the desert dwellers out here where I live have abandoned their evap coolers. I don't know why as a whole house cooler can save you thousands of dollars over a season (May 1 to November 15, or thereabout) I guess there are some excellent Air Conditioner salesmen out here (?) I will grant you, Evap Coolers can be a pain in the **s sometimes, especially when they are up on the roof. 😖 But the moist, cool air helps the sinuses, the skin, the wood furniture, and saves a ton of money over a summer season. P.S. We got an energy grade of A++ from our Power Company for our energy conservation efforts. Unfortunately, they did not reward us a month - not even a day - of discounted electricity, the meanies. 🥺 Signed, whole house evap cooler veteran
Thanks for your comment! Honestly I don't know why evaporative coolers are not more common in desert climates. We turned on our AC about 10 times this year on the really hot days but other than that we get by with our swamp cooler. Such a better way in my opinion to cool a house. You are right though. They are huge pains.
How about coatings for the inside of the evap cooler (window mounted unit) after rust repair? I've seen the "cooler coating" product. Is a white elastomeric type of coating effective at reducing temperature inside the cooler unit?
No, since dehumidifiers use heat to cause condensation. All unfortunately goes back to the basic laws of thermodynamics. Heat is always just transferred as energy cannot be created or destroyed, You’re just moving it around.
Might be nice to compare "new" synthetic pads vs. aspen. I'd like to see a comparison of "doubling pads" (like this dude) th-cam.com/video/b9nJw4KrTak/w-d-xo.html with different types, beginning and end of season, too, and maybe the "more water, bigger pump" or "more water distribution legs" myth, and adding reflective material around it for an outside unit, cheers! :)
@@TutorialGeek Couple more ideas I heard recently: doubling the aspen pads, and also drilling extra holes in the top reservoir/trough (top of the panels) so more water goes through. Also I wonder if dekcel pads cool more, they're thicker (and if so, is it possible to somehow fit them into a champion?), just some more research ideas, cheers bro!
I'm new to swamp coolers. I got one off Amazon as a person who does reviews. I couldn't do the kind of extensive testing that you have done but if I don't get the water as cold as I possibly can, I don't get anything that feels "refrigerated" out of it. You say to leave windows open and use fans to blow the more humid air out. Call me crazy, but how can you hope to cool down your home with the window open on a hot day? All I'm hearing here is 'go buy a good air conditioner and don't waste your money on a swamp cooler.' Sadly, I thought I had figured out how to get the most cold out of my little portable swamp cooler so I just bought a larger one along with a countertop ice maker, thinking I got this thing all figured out. Then I watch this video and I just want to cry. I don't want to keep chasing my tail and a 3 degree drop in temperature is not going to cut it in NM's 100+ degree summers. Summer is just getting started and we're matching or breaking records left and right and it doesn't appear that monsoon season is ever going to arrive. I'm screwed.
I live in NM and I think the monsoon season is what's hurting us. My swamp cooler was working amazing. It was about 72-74 during the hottest part of the day and 68-70 at night. But since we have been getting more storms and rain my unit simply refuses to do anything lower than 75. Even at night when it cools off, my unit is still only doing 75 when will at some point be the temp outside. One day it was 77 outside and 80 inside with my swamp cooler on. It seems like it's never ending!
@@choobakitten You must be in the mountains. I'd kill for those temps ! I'm down here in T or C. We've been cooking and we're only just beginning to get sporadic rain. Thankful it's becoming more frequent, though.
Leave window/door open for bedroom and use a fan to push air out on the other side of the floor ( place the fan a few feet of the openning ). Two peltier dehumidifiers (2x500ml per day) in the bedroom may help.
IF WE CAN FIGURE OUT HOW TO CIRCULATE FREONT IN AN EVAPORATOR WITHOUT USING ALOT OF ELECTRIC RUNNING THE COMPRESSOR WE WOULD HAVE A GOOD COOLING SYSTEM.
WHAT IF YOU CONNECT A FISH TANK PUMP TO A A/C EVAPORATOR FILLED WITH FREONT TO CIRCULATE THE FREONT.WOULD THAT MAKE THE EVAPORATOR COLD ENOUGH TO USE A FAN BOLTED TO THE EVAPORATOR TO BLOW COLD EVAPORATOR AIR OUT BETWEEN THE FINS???
OKAY IM THINKING ABOUT THIS NOW ON THEORY:MAYBE IF YOU HAVE A FREONT TANK WITH INPUT AND OUTPUT LINES CONNECTED TO AN EVAPORATOR WITH A SMALL ELECTRIC PUMP TO CIRCULATE THE FREONT THRU THE EVAPORATOR AND FREONT TANK IN MIGHT MAKE THE EVAPORATOR COLD ENOUGH TO CONNECT A FAN TO THE FINS OF THE EVAPORATOR..I DONT HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS OR EVAPORATOR,PUMP AND FREONT TANK TO EXPERIMENT..I WOULD NEED A WELDER TO RUN A 2- LINES INTO THE FREONT TANK AND WELD TO THE INPUT OUTPUT TO PUMP AND EVAPORATOR..AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP OR FISH TANK PUMP MIGHT WORK..I HAVENT EXPERIMENTED YET..IM JUST THINKING MECHANICAL THEORY..I OPENED UP A WINDOW UNIT ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR TANK AND FOUND A CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON..WHICH I ASSUME PUMPS FREONT WITH THE PISTON CHAMBER COMPRESSION..
WHERE IS THE REMOTE CONTROL SENSOR LOCATED IN THE UNIT, AND HOW CAN I BLOCK THE SENSOR? BECAUSE EVERYTIME I USE MY TV REMOTE IT TURN THE UNIT OFF AND ON. 😐
You must live in some humid location where the Dew Point is to the moon. My whole-house rooftop Evaporative cooler can reduce inside house temp to 77 or 78 (Depending on time of day) When it is 104 degrees F. outside, blowing on LOW! To be fair & honest, this also depends on that day's Dew Point and humidity. When my outside humidity is 10% and Dew Point is around 40 deg. or less - I think the temp variable is more than that. Ha. Evap Cooler owners are kind of like smokers who quit; or people who get really great gas mileage.
Good info. I store my water in the fridge so it gets cold AND I use the ice packs. My ice packs seem to last an hour and a half...it's end of July in AZ...
@@k.hendrickson8735 it works fine...just a pain in the ass...with that being said: the unit was taken out and beat down with a sledge hammer...these things are GARBAGE for long time use...they DO NOT LAST
Thank you for this video. It is one of the best on TH-cam. However, I would like to point out that both temperature and humidity needs to be measured. The output needs to be compared to a Heat Index in order to measure the "cooling effect". These things are a little complicated since the variables you're measuring are non linear. But, the conclusions you shared seem correct to me 👍
Where I live, the DEW POINT is of utmost importance. And the Dew Point is not the same as outside humidity.
Very interesting. Thank you for the video!
Thank you for this video It was very informative. We have been using a swamp cooler for years in California since the electricity rates are very high. We have solar now and still use it but it saved us about $600 a month at the very beginning before we got solar. One very good tip I would give is when the weather is cool at night leave the cooler on but turn off the water. This will bring in cold air all night long and when it starts to heat up turn on the water and your house will already be cool.
A bad side of swap cooler is that most of people put them outside, and thats not good in places with al lot of humidity. The inside get so damn bad and nasty. Is not better to install that inside?
Hot nights days 2023 years
Quit letting your wife touch your eyebrows
It was 90 and 12% humidity today in AZ. My swamp cooler was so cold it made me shiver
The best way to optimize these things is to rig more nozzles so the water completely soaks the media.
My home ac went out I have NO idea how to use my portable swamp cooler in my trailer or if it works idk wtf to do. My ac was replaced LAST YEAR! ENTIRE SYSTEM 18K EXCEPT THE PEDESTAL for the circuit breaker!!!! They want 9k to replace it!!!!! F that the issue is I pay for the lot so the park replaces it thank God but I don't think it's getting done today
@@marialehew5268 just open the windows and run the swamp cooler
Thanks. That 20 seconds was much mire tokerable than this foolishness. IMO
Yep I used pvc pipe to run all the way around the inside of the cooler and drilled lots of tinny holes in the pipe with a Dremel tool. I get nice evenly soaked pads. Last month we has a couple of 110F days and it was 72 in my trailer.
Have mutiple small ice blocks.
Rotate them 2 @ a time.
Turn the Cool feature on and off every 15 minutes or so. That way, water lasts longer. Put a gallon of water in refrigerator. This way water is already cold and ice packs will keep it cool.
As an HVAC technician adding ice does nothing but waste time and money
@@andrewveres3965 Doesn't it actively reduce the efficiency of the swamp cooler? Seems like it'd reduce the rate of evaporation?
@@ColtTheWolf that’s exactly what it does it effects evaporation rate and actually decreases efficiency
Seems like adding a cheap $200 water chiller that you use for a TIG welding torch or a laser engraver would keep the tub of water much colder thus producing colder air. The chiller would keep a constant cold water as opposed to ice which would melt 🤔
Question: How would I dry incoming humid outside air (feed air) for my outdoor evaporate unit. I’m thinking of making a heat exchanger completely powered by solar and nighttime battery. My heat exchanger would be embedded in sponge foam and cedar chips. Ductwork will be aluminum cans glued together to form the back and forth air conduit. Blower will “suck@ air through cans and back to house.
Can I fill the water tank with 70% ice and 30% water? to make air cooler >?
I did automotive, electrical and HVAC, therefore a/c in auto and residential, and swamp coolers. The best results are counterintuitive. Coolers work best in direct sun than in shade. Consider this, air absorbs a vapor easier and more than a liquid, it's like comparing 1 drop room temp water into room temp pan vs same drop into hot pan. Very visual difference...
-Proper air flow.....One room, 8x10x10'height is, and needs 800cfm. These cheap little portable coolers aren't worth it at all. Look up tutorials from these guys cooling greenhouses for design ideas, but match your fan to your house..... Start with the hottest, upstairs, south facing room, mount a box fan/aspen pad setup to a window, then open up a window across the house, to the same proportion...... the air will flow from in window a directly to and out window b, with no layover in rooms it passes. You can call that lazy or efficient, your choice... To distribute the cooling evenly you have to play with window openings, with the strategy of making the hottest rooms the easiest path, via bigger openings. In ALL cooling, airflow makes it or breaks it. Bring air in a 12"hole, fully open every window, it achieves nothing. 12" in & 11.9999" out is perfect, just the ever so slightest positive pressure.... Tissue test.... At each opening hold up a small tissue or sheet of toilet paper. Best air flow meter, ever made, because every house has it. If it ain't flappin, it ain't flowing.
- Next thing is make sure your pad or towel or whatever your using, is fully saturated... Air is sneakylazy, and even for air, swimming is more work than not swimming..... Visual test important, but also, do temp test....never recirculate indoor air. Outside air passing through, or don't bother... To test, take temp at hottest point where air outside is entering the pad then inside where it comes through. Do this test with each can speed, and that will tell you which is best for you...That says it all. I'm at Colorado altitude, humidity is consistently around 15%. Adding water to that pushes it to like 40-60% and on my setups I'm consistently nearly always 20- 25° cooler than outside.... Coolers only work in places with dry air... So... East coast, Texas, get a/c!!
-lastly, if you have an upstairs that is hell, and a middle level that's just kinda hot, focus on just the upstairs, and middle level will cool some by default..... It requires creative thought, but it's idiot simple. I kicked myself for all the suffering before landing in the trade.....
Must be enough air. Must be 100% pulled through wet medium, no unwet air may enter. Must exhaust to outside, as much air as comes in, never more. Ambient air temp& humidity will affect performance, so there can be off days on a perfect system, but overall, significant and pleasant cooling.
Great comment! Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise. I think you have some fantastic ideas!
@@TutorialGeek many thousand hours learning, installing, training. Mini split is a pretty amazing technology also... Especially in places like Florida, New York, Texas.... Keep in mind the way things in the world work... Heat rises, so don't try to make it go down 2 flights of stairs.... As a master electrician, qualified HVAC, and well trained automotive tech, any monkey can do anything any trade does. Swamp cooler saves money, but it's distraction from the fact there is abundance of, and... free health, free power, free heat, free cold,free motion(like car engine). We need to reclaim them, implement them, and share them
Dude, you speak the truth. I live in desert S.W and all the things you mention do matter. After 40 years of molly-coddling an Evap Cooler - We've pretty much got the details and variables figured out. In order of importance:
1. DEW POINT. (below 48, but 40 or less is heavenly)
2. Enough Air Flow for size of house
3. Outside Temp. also matters (above 105 - 107 degrees? Forget it. Turn on AC)
4. All windows open about 1/4 to 1/3
5. Really clean, wet pads
6. Reduce cool air loss in and around the sheet metal box of cooler
7. We believe aluminum rectangle ducts work better at sending cool air over the flexible ribbed plastic ductwork < Put in nearly ALL newer homes now.
Hey Josh great information thanks for your comment I'm wondering I do live on the tip of Southern Long Island and yes humidity is off the hook out here what about running at dehumidifier on junction with a swamp cooler is that a is that something that would help would it work what were the just be a waste of time thank you either way if you reply I thank you greatly and if you don't reply I just thank you LOL okay kidding aside it would be great if you could reply excuse any typos misspelled words stuff like that I'm blind and I'm using speech to text it has its own unique take on the English language believe me you're probably reading its results sincerely David Raphael AKA Bob the blind bedroom guitars
And what about bigger pumps in your window swamp color
I bought a mastercool same as bonair durango slim cooler . When outside air 85F and low fan speed cooled air stoped at 80F . Then made a cooler pads looks like card board and a 2nd water pump to increase cooling media and water flow . Unfortunately never set up . Decided to buy new AC unit .
But YES more water flow might be cooler but if too wet the fan on high might suck in water droplets . Another option
is pre cooling the water by pump in small chest freezer with auxiliary thermostat at 40F .
So, get a dehumidifier to blow into the swamp cooler, and the water it pulls from the air can feed the swamp cooler 😂😂
Have you ever tried a dehumidifier along with the a swamp cooler?
that would just make it hotter
That is the question I asked a couple of commenters who seem to be knowledgeable on and haven't got a reply I'm assuming you haven't got a reply because I haven't noticed one I'm blind so it's possible I missed it because my screen reader only tells me what's under my finger and sometimes it doesn't even do that LOL your comment is quite a bit older than mine and I'm hoping that maybe you've got an answer to that or that you've tried it because it's my only saving grace at this point between if if it works then I'm going to pull the trigger and get a really good swamp cooler if it doesn't then the hell France going to have to do thank you very much for your reply and thank you if you don't reply LOL all kidding aside thanks either way Cecily Bob the blind bedroom guitarist AKA David Raphael
With thicker pads, airflow will be restricted unless fan power is upgraded. Place the fan at least a few feet from openning to push air out ( see how firefighters push air/smokes).
Would it help to run a dehumidifier at the same time in the same room?
Super interesante tu estudio y analisis. Fue realmente un estudio de alta gama y de gran ayuda. Gracias por compartir.
Glad you did the leg work😅 Thought about it any who thank you.
Love the smell of the new😮 a spin on the farm we water cooled the rabbitry with 10'x8' frames filled with the excelsior. A whole wall about 15 of those frames , with pvc with dew drops to spray the pads and toliet tanks on both ends of the building 14:01 so the kids on the neighborhood would come and play in the buildings ,that was in ElCajon CA
Here in Las Vegas my son has 2 comercial mastercools one for his house (12"pads ) and one for his garage (8") He says the 8" are cooler?
I think that also I have a commercial trophy that I use 8" pads. When you have kids and pets evaporated coolers are the best someone is always leaving the door open and we all know AC right out the door 😅 along$to.
Thanks again
Hello sir, I noticed that you used infrafed thermometer to measure the air temperature. in reality these devices measure the temperature of the surface you are aiming at, you can't use them to measure the temperature of the air, as indicated by the makers of these devices. so what you have measured in reality is the change in the water temperature not that of the air temperature. My opinion is that there is no infuluance of the temperature of the water on the efficiency of the cooler because the cooling capacity is related to latent heat of evaporation which happens at all water temperatures between solidification and evaporation.
Your first experiment did not monitor the ambient humidity, while running it in the same room and bringing up the dew point.
Can you please tell me what you mean by make them as thick as possible? Do you mean to double the pads?
Pulling Outside Heat to run threw your Swamp Cool ..Doesn't Add up
Excellent video
We tried the evaporative cooler in coastal city but not efficient at all, however in dry far away city from coast, and excellent cooling.
Also honeycomb carton is best
Some people put small evaporator of the water dispenser in the cooler tray
Correct. The Dew Point by the Coast just will not allow the evaporation to occur which causes the cooling effect. Dew Point is a pickle to explain, and it's not just common 'humidity' in the air. It's more about the rate at which the surface dew on the ground evaporates in the air.
Evap coolers are perfect for arid areas. Oddly they are being phased out by many home owners in my arid area...😕 I think it's plain laziness... Having a big evap cooler is kind of like having a high-maintenance aunt living with you....😆
@4:11 - the air coming out of the 1st one is already much more humid ( likely ~70% humidity ) . The temp should stay constant/same for all ( evap cooling chart ).
the best tip I have figured out for these is try to use as little water as possible that still provides cooling
My portable ones have dials and I let the pad get soaked full blast for 10 minutes then I turn it down to just a trickle. Water lasts a lot longer and it helps keep the humidity down which helps it feel cool. We're only talking 3 or 4 degrees at most difference but not having water condensing on your stuff is an even bigger improvement.
I want a "smart" controller thermostat that varies the water on and off now... :)
"I wanted to see if this (physics) was true or not."
The arrogance is baffling
Just rebuilt my cooler for the year.. used the synthetic pads and of course I figured that was why my temps were higher than normal. You nailed it sir, aspen pads and honeycomb is superior.
I think what they were referring to was the water temperature doesn't make a difference when it comes to it evaporating not actually the temperature it produces when it's evaporated but that it would evaporate whether it was near freezing or boiling hot it's still going to evaporate in the air and us produce an evaporated cool not the cold is cool but cooler cool of course ice water it would be better but either way it'll work
Yeah those Aspen pads really are great I tried the synthetic pad it just did not cool as well when I rebuilt mine with the Aspen filled in all the gaps nice and tight it was ice cold almost like an AC I swear I have an aluminum roof garage when temperatures in the summertime are 110 outside without any insulation and without the cooler it's near 180° of radiant heat from the roof after doing some insulation on the ceiling and the cooler it stays livable properly around 80° inside That's a huge difference literally unbearable before you would gasp for air when you walked in now you can comfortably be in there
What about getting a small dehumidifier to use with a portable cooler?
A dehumidifier would cancel out the evaporative cooling. And add more heat on top of that because it takes a tremendous amount of energy to run it. Think of this, water removes energy to evaporate, water releases that same energy back to condense. Same concept as leaving your freezer door open to cool the house. Physics don’t work that way.
How the !#$@ Was the master cool swamp cooler? Have ice on it
I have a few experiments myself. My house temperature went up watching this video. I have angered the cooling gods.
What I find works is using both a standard A/C unit - that keeps the humidity low - AND a swamp cooler at the same time. The two complement each other nicely.
I've heard other people say that. Don't use an air conditioner with a swamp cooler. A swamp cooler needs to have a window open so that the moisture can get out. You're using your air conditioner to dehumidify and take out the moisture. Hopefully you have a hygrometer so that you're seeing what the humidity and temperature are actually doing in your house and you're not just guessing that it's good. That's a ridiculously large amount of energy you're using.
People glaze over humidity sometimes, think of humidity as a heat load cuz water takes alot of energy to change temperature vs air. Adding humidity makes your a/c work more/longer to reduce temperature of room/house. A small humidifier is fine but swamp coolers add humidity to your house which your paying for in running your a/c.
Evaporative coolers cool by evaporation, as the name implies, but also exchange heat with the water. When using ice water, the heat is being absorbed directly into the water itself. When using hot water, the heat is being absorbed by the air. Unless your freezer is outside, the heat taken out of the water in the freezer to make the ice will exit the condensor on/in the back of the freezer and into the house, thus warming the house. So if using ice, only use ice from outside of the house.
If you don't have working A/C, you can also dedicate part of your outdoor/garage freezer space to producing ice every day on the days humdity is too high for evaporative coolers to work or regularly as a cooling boost. For how you can cool depends on how much ice you have in supply.
My house has an old MasterCool unit and it works well. It utilizes a MasterCool P225201A controller. I cannot bear this controller. I have no idea why it keeps adjusting its speed. The fan is so loud that I can’t stay in the room with it.
Does anyone know of a quality easy to use replacement control panel?
My Dial 6800 Cooler is a little loud on HIGH only. Low is pretty much silent. (Why don't they make a Medium setting??)
We have a Dial controller in our hallway that is mostly all manual. No digital anything. We wanted a LOW tech thermostat that we can adjust ourselves. Because we like to keep the blower on low, but 'chase' the thermostat down at night for Max coolness. (Because it's manual, it will just quietly turn Off when it hits the temp we set) When we 'chase' the temp down, it keeps running on low even when the house gets to the mid 60's. Which is how Mrs. Hot Flashes likes it. In the morning, as the house heats up from the outside, the cooler motor will kick in to High as it futilely attempts to bring the temp back to where we set the temp so low. This serves to also wake us up, which we don't mind.
P.S. It sounds like your bearings, motor, and/or belt drive is tired or worn on your MC. And those few mechanical parts in it have to be oiled and checked each season because (1) Water ruins everything (2) Coolers are just Needy Nellies. Maybe have a professional Evap tech look at it - If you can find one.
@@k.hendrickson8735 Thank you for taking the time to reply and the suggestions. I am selling this house. Any fool idea the designer could think of was done to this home when it was built. I wasn’t smart to know they were bad ideas until I had been here a while. I will fix anything broken and throw in a new membrane. I don’t want to deal with this place and the 160lbs of pine needles that fall each week.
So I asked an ai how to ventilate the house when using a swamp cooler. It said I should get cross ventilation going by having one side of the house sucking in air and the other blowing out air. Idk if it’s even possible to get one side to suck in air with negative pressure because they all just spew out air equally in every window. Is this possible and effective? Seems like it would just let in uncool air by doing that tbh
Here is what I do: Turn on the swamp cooler. On the opposite end of the house I open a single window and put in a window fan that blows air out. Honestly, it is probably not necessary to have a fan but I think it helps with the overall flow.
If one has an efficient whole house evap cooler - You'd be surprised at the air output that 1 HP motor can push out! When we first turn it on at the beginning of a season. LOL, if enough windows are not open for venting out, it has pushed the door out of my hand and slammed it shut. That was on High.
@@TutorialGeek If this is just a little bitty house and a little evap cooler, fine.
But there is a literal mathematical formulation for how many, and how much, your windows NEED TO BE OPENED to allow proper outflow from your damp air cooler. I found it on the web. I think it was from an Australian cooler company. Sorry, but I cannot remember where.
@@k.hendrickson8735 even with 6 open windows.. it still blows the door out of my hand.
You might want to learn about latent heat.
Did you factor in the phase change from ice to water and the energy needed to do it?
I just want to know if i should keep all windows closed
NO! NO. Exact opposite. Open all windows according to the OUTPUT of forced air from your Evap Cooler. There's an actual chart somewhere out there on the internet.
Open windows for evap.
CLOSE windows for AC (Which keeps re-using your inside air)
Issue 1 what was the difference between indoor an outdoor temperature, 2 the most critical what was the humidity level indoor an out door on the 1st hot to cold water test.. there is a evaporative cooler calculator so you know what speed an cfm you need to install.. I live in a rather dry hea.. the dryer the air is the better the cooler works..
I've had a whole house Evap Cooler for over 40 years.
The lower the DEW POINT, the better the cooler works. The Best net effects is 40-43 Dew Point and 10% Humidity. Even in my dry, arid area - there is a couple months when the Dew Point creeps up above 48, due to Summer storms rolling in. Then, the outside temp gets above 107 degrees, and I don't care how well you have your Evap dialed in - It cannot get the inside of a house to a livable temperature. That's when the giant energy and money depleting AC Unit goes on for about 8 to 10 weeks.
There's actually not that many areas with the ideal conditions for one of these Needy Nellies.
How about with dry ice
One idea would be to add a chiller that would be used for a TIG welding torch or laser engraver. This would constantly keep the tub of water cold unlike adding ice and therefore continuously producing cold air continuously.
Couple that with a great dehumidifier who's output is the swamp coolers air input.
Would a portable unit be helpful when unloading a semi trailer when humidity is above 70%?
NOPE. Sorry. Must have low, low Dew Point, and low humidity below 40% My Evap works BEST when the Dew Point is around, or under, 40; and the humidity is 10%
Very informative video, Thank you for taking the time out of your life to make it and do all the research, plus editing. It definitely helped clear up some misconceptions I had about indoor vs outdoor, plus it helped me come up with some new ideas on how to build my own.
Nice video..but have you try dry ice ?...All I know that ice is -70°
Water evaporates best around 50 deg is what I was told. I don't know that cooling it will help unless you forgot to turn it on early enough in the day and instead you had already let the water heat up to 60 / 70 / 80
Ya just suffocate yourself with dry ice lmfao
Have you ever put dry ice in water and seen what happens?
Give it a try and let us know
Not sure if that's a good idea dry ice is not water ice it is co2 and not recommended to put that in your house I all the windows are open probably not an issue but if the house is closed up it's going to stay inside and displace o2 you would need a lot for it to be dangerous I think but also dry ice sublimates pretty rapidly so I don't think it will help as much anyway
Have you tried salt and ice? I'm from fl so I'm curious.
You’d be pumping salt through the system and evaporating the water… salt would ruin it.
I've often been curious what the effect is of "crusty" pads vs new, and also sometimes the pads fall "down" a little bit making some holes where the air can pass in unobstructed by the pads, I wonder how much of a negative effect that is, or not... :)
Clean, well installed pads work the best. If they get too crusty with minerals - they are obstructing the outside air the cooler sucks in for the blower to cool and send down into the house.
We USED to get 5 years out of those expensive paper honeycomb cooler pads. Now, since everything but our children is made in China, I have noticed we can barely get three years out of the honeycomb pads. So the pads cost 2X as much now, and last about 1/2 as long. I guess that's globalism.
Can't speak regarding the aspen pads.
I can confirm that super crusty pads and it doesn't cool well at all, the water just runs straight down instead of soaking in. So it's like a fan instead of a cooler. Don't ask me how I know LOL...
I put the blue pads on the outside to collect the dirt and the aspen filters last longer, also a buddy of mine uses a sand disk on his grinder to clean up the aspen pads where a respirator
Interesting idea to put the blue pads on the outside. Thanks for sharing!
Wouldn't that overwork your blower motor? If it can't breathe in enough air... it's just not going to do much.
OKLAHOMA HAS sweaty humid air! Wyoming has dry air! The swamp cooler works very cold in Wyoming.
It's 110 degrees here and my boniair swamp cooler is blowing at 66....😮 That chart may be a lil off and my black line is in direct sun 🌞 Nevada weather..
The best has always has been Geo thermal - closed loop. - Just think 12 foot down is a constant 55 degrees every single day,. Basements are about 9 foot down, and you get a nice effect there too. I hope this helps
Get an internal ice making machine to keep making ice and dropping it in the water tray. Swamp coolers are great in hot dry climates. No so much in humid climates, that will just make you hotter and feel like you're dying. Tip number two, shade your cooler from the sun if you can.
Can u use this water of this swamp cooler......to be run inside the pipes of fan cooling units (fcu) .....(just like indoor unit of split ac ; but hey use water instead of freon gas )
The aspen pads add a subtle nice smell to the air. I don't like the synthetic pads nearly as much and I haven't tried the third alternative the narrator suggests.
I have a 12gallon in my garage. Could I dump a bunch of ice in the bottom??
In a hot humid climate, evaporative cooling is not the most effective way to lower the temperature for indoor room.
Hi , can we add return air ducts near the ceiling and connect them to an exhaust to take out the hot air which will rise up. This will help in pulling out hot air and also help in cool air to be replaced near the floor where people are generally. Please do this experiment and see how much difference can it make😏
A swamp cooler works because the dry warm air causes evaporation in the pads. The heat energy is used to change liquid into gas and that energy state is used to maintain the gas form, thus the energy is lessened in the air and it is cooler. All expanding gas sucks up heat. The heat is used in the raising of the energy in the water to the gas state. Air must be from outside and a open window or door at the other end of the house is needed. Compressors get hot because the energy is being forced out of the air. Fire exstingishers are cold because of rapid gas expansion sucking up the heat.
What about having the exhaust air which is cooler already going right back into the cooler kinda like a egr in a car
I just bought a yeti ice pack so that won’t help making the air cold?
Thank you so much. The information was beautifully presented and very informative.
Summary: making your pads aspen or "paper honeycomb" and "thick as possible" (and I assume with as few holes as possible) gives the most impact...see 12:00 where he says the takeaways summary.
The hard part is finding replacement parts like Side Assembly 21 1/4 x 29 3/4
In evaporative cooling all that matters is the airs' water saturation. It takes dry bulb temp (regular temp) and tries to get it to wet bulb temp (full saturated temp) the more efficient the media is at saturating and the drier the dry bulb air is the greater the drop. The best units are 92% effective, bad units are about 70% when you put colder ice in that isn't evaporative cooling it is heat / cooling transfer from the air to water.
If you want to do the math on it you need two things: the exact inlet air temp (your dry bulb) and humidity. Then use a web bulb calc on the net. That is the temp you could reach at 100% efficiency . Read your outlet temp and you can see your performance. The most efficient units temperature wise are phoenix manufacturing Aerocool Pro Series and Seely international breezair products. Both of these units will put out air in the 60 degree range with over 100 degrees temp in arid climates. Both come with programmable thermostats to prevent over cooling the house.
Energy / cooling most efficient is the the Bonaire Durango thin window mount though it leaves much to be desired in temperature. If I remember it only has 4 in thick rigid media. If you really want to compete with air conditioning 8in should be min but 12in is the way to go.
TutorialGeek, I agree with E.V.817 who posted below, you did a great job on this review/tutorial. Thank you.
Can you put an outdoor window AC unit in front of the house evaporator cooler and vent off the hot air above a shade pop up
An evaporated cooler works by putting moisture into the air, the humidity absorbs the heat. Never put hot water into a swamp cooler just use regular tap water. Your experiment of ice that other people insist is needed and works is just a temporary cooling feeling as the air is being blown over the ice it doesn't last very long and it's no different than putting a bucket of ice in front of a fan and blowing it on yourself.
Not correct heat is not transfered to matter moisture that would be still warm humid air. Heat is removed when the water molecule changes state from liquid to gas.
Question can I rap foil paper on the honey cone for it to be cooler
how well do these work in hot&humid climates?
Cooler water, cooler air. Who woulda known 😅
Great video thank you!!
Was wondering what do you think I should do I have my evaporator cooler portable and I have one window in my room should I place the evaporator cooler next to the window and then just cracked my door to let the air go Down the hallway?
Great information. We use both A/C and evaporative air. For swamp cooling I installed Updux to help cool the attic, and I installed a wall mounted slim pleated cooler with 2- 18" elbows to the long hallway, with a shade on the cooler, to keep the direct sun off it. The A/C system works only when the temps are very high and the humidity is high. Venting our attic is done with eave vents a ridge vent and foil perforated over the insulation. I do want to install a dehumidifier for swamp cooling. This is next. Thank you for the tips
Hi I was thinking about getting an evaporative cooler from my room it's a small room it's got to be about $120 sq ft give or take and I live on the tip of Long Island in New York it is extremely humid here I'm wondering if I were to use a humidifier in the room in conjunction with the swamp cooler would that have a good effect will it work or will one negate the other I'd appreciate a reply if possible if not it's all good thank you sincerely David Raphael AKA Bob the blind bedroom guitarist
The intro caught me off guard
Add a blue pad over your paper honey pads just on the outside , the calcium will build up on the blue pad instead of the honey pad , making the honey pad last longer.
That is a great idea!
The MAIN thing is Dew Point (Not quite the same as humidity) The number has to be under around 48 dew point, and the lower, the better!
Our Whole House Dial 6800 Evap Cooler MUST have those expensive, paper, honeycomb pads ($100 bucks and up each, for 30" X 40" size. 🤔 And they don't seem to last more than 3 years tops) This Dial 6800 model requires TWO 8 in. thick pads. So we've currently got 16 inches of cooler pad. It can get down to 67 degrees at night; which BTW, is the ideal sleeping temp according to scientific tests.
We used to have the old-style, four sided, cooler with the natural Aspen pads. Both of us agree the old-school 4 sider did a better job of cooling - however, another variable might have been that we had hard, aluminum ductwork. Our current domicile has that flexible plastic ductwork.
Most of the desert dwellers out here where I live have abandoned their evap coolers. I don't know why as a whole house cooler can save you thousands of dollars over a season (May 1 to November 15, or thereabout) I guess there are some excellent Air Conditioner salesmen out here (?) I will grant you, Evap Coolers can be a pain in the **s sometimes, especially when they are up on the roof. 😖 But the moist, cool air helps the sinuses, the skin, the wood furniture, and saves a ton of money over a summer season.
P.S. We got an energy grade of A++ from our Power Company for our energy conservation efforts. Unfortunately, they did not reward us a month - not even a day - of discounted electricity, the meanies. 🥺
Signed, whole house evap cooler veteran
Thanks for your comment! Honestly I don't know why evaporative coolers are not more common in desert climates. We turned on our AC about 10 times this year on the really hot days but other than that we get by with our swamp cooler. Such a better way in my opinion to cool a house. You are right though. They are huge pains.
Answered all there is about evaporative cooling, .. awesome stuff
How about coatings for the inside of the evap cooler (window mounted unit) after rust repair? I've seen the "cooler coating" product. Is a white elastomeric type of coating effective at reducing temperature inside the cooler unit?
sunlight doesn't hit directly inside but a little light does, worth an experiment :)
How about use both evap cooler and dehumidifier in hot humid area? Will it get even cooler?
No, since dehumidifiers use heat to cause condensation. All unfortunately goes back to the basic laws of thermodynamics. Heat is always just transferred as energy cannot be created or destroyed, You’re just moving it around.
Might be nice to compare "new" synthetic pads vs. aspen. I'd like to see a comparison of "doubling pads" (like this dude) th-cam.com/video/b9nJw4KrTak/w-d-xo.html with different types, beginning and end of season, too, and maybe the "more water, bigger pump" or "more water distribution legs" myth, and adding reflective material around it for an outside unit, cheers! :)
These are great ideas! I am actually already working on some of these ideas for a future video.
@@TutorialGeek Couple more ideas I heard recently: doubling the aspen pads, and also drilling extra holes in the top reservoir/trough (top of the panels) so more water goes through. Also I wonder if dekcel pads cool more, they're thicker (and if so, is it possible to somehow fit them into a champion?), just some more research ideas, cheers bro!
szóval a lényeget le lehet szűrni belőle hogy a sűrűbb lyukú filter jobban hűt még langyos vizzel is ,,, mint a nagy lyukú
I'm new to swamp coolers. I got one off Amazon as a person who does reviews. I couldn't do the kind of extensive testing that you have done but if I don't get the water as cold as I possibly can, I don't get anything that feels "refrigerated" out of it.
You say to leave windows open and use fans to blow the more humid air out. Call me crazy, but how can you hope to cool down your home with the window open on a hot day?
All I'm hearing here is 'go buy a good air conditioner and don't waste your money on a swamp cooler.' Sadly, I thought I had figured out how to get the most cold out of my little portable swamp cooler so I just bought a larger one along with a countertop ice maker, thinking I got this thing all figured out.
Then I watch this video and I just want to cry. I don't want to keep chasing my tail and a 3 degree drop in temperature is not going to cut it in NM's 100+ degree summers. Summer is just getting started and we're matching or breaking records left and right and it doesn't appear that monsoon season is ever going to arrive.
I'm screwed.
I live in NM and I think the monsoon season is what's hurting us. My swamp cooler was working amazing. It was about 72-74 during the hottest part of the day and 68-70 at night. But since we have been getting more storms and rain my unit simply refuses to do anything lower than 75. Even at night when it cools off, my unit is still only doing 75 when will at some point be the temp outside. One day it was 77 outside and 80 inside with my swamp cooler on. It seems like it's never ending!
@@choobakitten You must be in the mountains. I'd kill for those temps ! I'm down here in T or C. We've been cooking and we're only just beginning to get sporadic rain. Thankful it's becoming more frequent, though.
I Enjoyed this clip. Thanks for the good advice
Thank your uploading content and trying to get some of this info you found out.
Wow . Thank you very much.
The cold water is still the best for evaporative cooling especially by using blue ice packs.
Great video and info mate👍👍
Excellent! Thank you.
My house has the stupid great room design which made the evaporative cooler work great. In the bedroom the humidity definitely went up
Leave window/door open for bedroom and use a fan to push air out on the other side of the floor ( place the fan a few feet of the openning ). Two peltier dehumidifiers (2x500ml per day) in the bedroom may help.
Same with my room, dead ass 100 degrees at night, this is a temporary rental unit and it has no AC. Only damn option is a swamp cooler
@@livi1595 Scientific Fact: The ideal sleeping temperature is 67 degrees! A human cannot get good quality sleep at 100 degrees!
IF WE CAN FIGURE OUT HOW TO CIRCULATE FREONT IN AN EVAPORATOR WITHOUT USING ALOT OF ELECTRIC RUNNING THE COMPRESSOR WE WOULD HAVE A GOOD COOLING SYSTEM.
WHAT IF YOU CONNECT A FISH TANK PUMP TO A A/C EVAPORATOR FILLED WITH FREONT TO CIRCULATE THE FREONT.WOULD THAT MAKE THE EVAPORATOR COLD ENOUGH TO USE A FAN BOLTED TO THE EVAPORATOR TO BLOW COLD EVAPORATOR AIR OUT BETWEEN THE FINS???
OKAY IM THINKING ABOUT THIS NOW ON THEORY:MAYBE IF YOU HAVE A FREONT TANK WITH INPUT AND OUTPUT LINES CONNECTED TO AN EVAPORATOR WITH A SMALL ELECTRIC PUMP TO CIRCULATE THE FREONT THRU THE EVAPORATOR AND FREONT TANK IN MIGHT MAKE THE EVAPORATOR COLD ENOUGH TO CONNECT A FAN TO THE FINS OF THE EVAPORATOR..I DONT HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS OR EVAPORATOR,PUMP AND FREONT TANK TO EXPERIMENT..I WOULD NEED A WELDER TO RUN A 2- LINES INTO THE FREONT TANK AND WELD TO THE INPUT OUTPUT TO PUMP AND EVAPORATOR..AN ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP OR FISH TANK PUMP MIGHT WORK..I HAVENT EXPERIMENTED YET..IM JUST THINKING MECHANICAL THEORY..I OPENED UP A WINDOW UNIT ELECTRIC COMPRESSOR TANK AND FOUND A CRANKSHAFT AND PISTON..WHICH I ASSUME PUMPS FREONT WITH THE PISTON CHAMBER COMPRESSION..
I NEED TO GO TO M.I.T. AND HAVE A TEAM OF FABRICATORS&SPEC SPECIALIST TO BUILD SOME STUFF...
I hear you. I keep thinking "What could I add to that water, or the pads, that is 100% NON-Hazardous, to help Old Faithful run more efficiently?"
WHERE IS THE REMOTE CONTROL SENSOR LOCATED IN THE UNIT, AND HOW CAN I BLOCK THE SENSOR? BECAUSE EVERYTIME I USE MY TV REMOTE IT TURN THE UNIT OFF AND ON. 😐
I'm sorry to laugh, but...............😆😅🤣 Made me think of the old Poltergeist movie in the beginning where the neighbors had a Remote Control war.
What happend to the links of the coolers ?
😂 use wet charcoal because it has a very high surface area as evaporative pad
What would happen if you froze the filter with like moist not so its frozen solid
Would take a few minuted to thaw out.. tried similar stuff
All evaporative colors are rip offs yes there cheap but literally I can just buy a fan , why spend more to get 4 degrees lower then ambient
Highly disagree. Consistently 20-25° colder, if done properly... But it depends on where you live and it's typical humidity.
I nap in a shed of mine every afternoon cooled by an evap cooler. 108 degrees outside, 81 inside.
You must live in some humid location where the Dew Point is to the moon. My whole-house rooftop Evaporative cooler can reduce inside house temp to 77 or 78 (Depending on time of day) When it is 104 degrees F. outside, blowing on LOW! To be fair & honest, this also depends on that day's Dew Point and humidity.
When my outside humidity is 10% and Dew Point is around 40 deg. or less - I think the temp variable is more than that.
Ha. Evap Cooler owners are kind of like smokers who quit; or people who get really great gas mileage.
Good info. I store my water in the fridge so it gets cold AND I use the ice packs. My ice packs seem to last an hour and a half...it's end of July in AZ...
😟 I HOPE you are not trying to cool the interior of a home this way.
@@k.hendrickson8735 it works fine...just a pain in the ass...with that being said: the unit was taken out and beat down with a sledge hammer...these things are GARBAGE for long time use...they DO NOT LAST