Some comments are saying removing the water pump is not as easy for them as it was for me. You could remove the front right wheel and plastic liner to get extra access if it is too tight on the normal Prius/CT200h. All I had to do was remove the air intake and I had plenty of room on my Prius V. Let me know if it is true and if this helps!
Best video by far. Tackling this job shortly. Should have done it when I did the intake manifold and EGR system but live and learn I guess. Didn’t throw a code yet, but trying to be proactive at 165k miles. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment & smart move on the preventative maintenance! Personally I’d keep a code scanner in your glovebox, then if it ever does happen you can clear the code and make it home. If I had not had a scanner I’d have been stuck needing a tow, or at the very least a ride to get a scanner. Although 230k is a lot more than 165k, I also know a ‘12 Prius in the family with 240k that has had 0 issues. It’s a random gamble like anything.
@@pavindersinghgrewal7414 BlueDriver. I keep one in every car. Expensive, but I trust them. I’ve also used a generic cheap “ELM327” bluetooth scanner and it’s ok, only as good as the app you use.
It’s amazing sometimes the simplest tools make the most difference. Like a good hook & pick set, I use them all the time. But as you said, the right ratchet or wrench to fit that tight spot is a must. Thanks for your comment.
Thanks for the comment! I looked at your channel because the profile photo reminded me of my first bike, a two stroke Kawasaki KE100. You have some awesome looking videos.
Thank you for this video. Much appreciated. The design and placement of this water pump and thermostat looks very similar to my 2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid. I will reference this video. Thank you so much.
Great video bro! I have a 2017 lexus ct200h and im about to replace my water pump rotor only, i seen another guy on you tube that figured out that u dont have to buy a brand new water pump, the rotor is $27 thru Amazon under the dasbecan brand. I just need to buy some more tools tmrw and coolant and the gasket $12. $70 for everything vs. $1,000 at mechanic shops
argh! good stuff, Mr. Breno. only arghing b/c I now see I could've tackled this job on the wife's prius.... (but I"m out of town, and told her to go ahead and let the dealer do it. $! argh). But thanks!!! :)
pink coolant: 60 usd at dealers, 30 usd at walmart. I really like your scheme. When I did my clutch, i would draw a diagram by hand and label each bolt by size and length.
You can get to those bottom two bolts much easier if you jack up the passenger side and either remove the wheel, or turn the wheel to the right. A long 3/8 extension helps a lot. Also, I found it easier to just remover the whole air filter box.
That would be easiest. Otherwise you need to measure out the concentrate and mix with distilled water at the right ratio (most run 50/50, but the bottle has a chart you can follow). Concentrate is cheaper once diluted (you get 2x as much), but less convenient.
There's a guy on YT who mentions this as a cheap fix rather than buying the whole pump. The plastic rotor is usually the culprit and is cheaper to replace .
If the normal Prius/CT200h is a tighter fit than on my Prius V then that might be easier way to go. I had plenty of room with just the air intake removed. Let me know what worked for you.
PITTSBURGH PRO 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive Long-Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet - Item 67994 It is very nice to have, I use it all the time. For the little bolts in this video this is all you need. I use a breaker bar on larger stuck bolts.
I change water pump and thermostat on my 2013 still overheating after 30 min drive just when i drive over 70mph what can i have to do temperatures gets almost 220
Possibly radiator or head gasket? Can get head gasket test kit with blue fluid, good thing for any car. Radiator blockage would be hard to tell from the outside.
th-cam.com/video/UX2fKheBwm0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CtObOl0wUOveSZ8K I hope you find this link helpful. It helped me after a coolant drain/refill and my issue with overheating. God Bless You! Merry Christmas!🎄🌲
HELP, please. Problem is sporadic random overheating, accompanied with coolant liquid blown out tru the release valve on the plastic overflow container. I installed new thermostat (ebay), new water pump (the old one looks ok, and the rotor does not appear to be damaged) pressure test was good, keeps 12 psi for long time, exhaust fumes in coolant is negative, I pumped many many many times, the liquid remains blue... Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Did you get the issue resolved? If we know the head gasket is ok, then no extra heat is being added, there must be an issue with heat being removed. Possibly a blocked radiator, not dissipating the heat. I’m not sure how the ECU controls the water pump, but if the coolant temp sensor was off it might not be requesting enough flow? That is what comes to my mind.
@@BrenoAutoGarage i believe that i solved the problem, but i do not know what exactly was the problem. my radiator is ok, because my liquid is crystal clear transparent, no precipitates, and because i was able to drive 3 h in the hotest part of the day tlh-jax. then, after i changed the temperature sensor, seems like no more overheating. how and why the temp sensor causes overheating have no idea. Because the theromstate was also changed. unless, malfunctioning temp sensor tells computer the water is cold, and computer reduces the pump rpm. but then comes the funniest part. temp sensor is a platinum wire. because platinum resistivity vs temperature diagram is very well known. please find it on the internet. i checked my temp sensor, it reads 1500-2000 ohms, which is right for ambient temperature. Well, I went tlh- jax and back, no more overheating. (Do you know the song Ohm, Sweet Ohm by Kraftwerk?)
You could remove the front right wheel and plastic liner to get more room if it is a tighter fit for you than on my Prius V. Let me know what you did to get it out. I had plenty of room with just the air intake removed.
I have a 2011 and was able to do it myself easily. Not sure if it’s different in other generations. Once you remove the air intake cover it opens up a lot of room. I also took my right front tire off after jacking the car up and it gave so much more room from the bottom. It’s very easy. Do the thermostat at the same time while you’re down there.
I need to clean my EGR... so I might as well do my water pump while I'm at it... so I might as well do my head gasket too... so I might as well do my transmission fluid flush since everything under the hood is exposed... Man this car got needy fast lol
The worst part is when you go to fix one thing, and break another in the process! Or you find out you need another special tool just for one job. The old can of worms saying can be true for cars lol.
That is nuts, more than a used engine… Did you find a way to get it out? I’ve been lucky to never break a bolt in a tight spot I couldn’t get to it easily.
@BrenoAutoGarage I couldnt get the bolt out, so I jammed a post into the hole on top of the bolt, caked it with jb weld, put the pump on, put more jb weld into the space in the hole for the water pump bolt, then fastened a nut to it. It had help so far, maybe 5k miles later
Madman enters the chat! Would not be fun to take apart again, but I bet it will hold up. I would probably have slathered the pump/gasket with RTV in that area and left the bolt missing myself. Either way, glad to hear you got it done & back on the road.
Some comments are saying removing the water pump is not as easy for them as it was for me.
You could remove the front right wheel and plastic liner to get extra access if it is too tight on the normal Prius/CT200h. All I had to do was remove the air intake and I had plenty of room on my Prius V.
Let me know if it is true and if this helps!
Best video by far. Tackling this job shortly. Should have done it when I did the intake manifold and EGR system but live and learn I guess. Didn’t throw a code yet, but trying to be proactive at 165k miles. Thanks again.
Thanks for the comment & smart move on the preventative maintenance!
Personally I’d keep a code scanner in your glovebox, then if it ever does happen you can clear the code and make it home. If I had not had a scanner I’d have been stuck needing a tow, or at the very least a ride to get a scanner.
Although 230k is a lot more than 165k, I also know a ‘12 Prius in the family with 240k that has had 0 issues. It’s a random gamble like anything.
@@BrenoAutoGarage which scanner do you have
@@pavindersinghgrewal7414 BlueDriver. I keep one in every car. Expensive, but I trust them.
I’ve also used a generic cheap “ELM327” bluetooth scanner and it’s ok, only as good as the app you use.
Awesome video. I changed my thermostat today and flex rachet from Harbor Freight is a must have tool for all mechanic.
It’s amazing sometimes the simplest tools make the most difference. Like a good hook & pick set, I use them all the time. But as you said, the right ratchet or wrench to fit that tight spot is a must. Thanks for your comment.
Nice idea with the ramp and jack combo
Great job! Nice to see a kid who can do more than video games!!
Thanks for the comment! I looked at your channel because the profile photo reminded me of my first bike, a two stroke Kawasaki KE100. You have some awesome looking videos.
Very thorough and very well done video! Thanks fellow Prius Geek!
Thank you your video on the water pump shwingndnage to the rotor really helped me!
Thank you for this video. Much appreciated. The design and placement of this water pump and thermostat looks very similar to my 2012 Toyota Camry Hybrid. I will reference this video. Thank you so much.
Very informative, I like how neat you do everything
Great video bro! I have a 2017 lexus ct200h and im about to replace my water pump rotor only, i seen another guy on you tube that figured out that u dont have to buy a brand new water pump, the rotor is $27 thru Amazon under the dasbecan brand. I just need to buy some more tools tmrw and coolant and the gasket $12. $70 for everything vs. $1,000 at mechanic shops
Thanks for the comment! If I had known the rotor was all that had failed I probably would have got just that too. Smart move to save money.
What is the part number for the rubber seal on the pump?
What about the Inverter pump?
@Jatsotserah it is a separate pump behind the drivers side headlight. 2 separate cooling systems
Nice concise to the point video. No bitching morning or political satire. Congratulations! 8:31
argh! good stuff, Mr. Breno. only arghing b/c I now see I could've tackled this job on the wife's prius.... (but I"m out of town, and told her to go ahead and let the dealer do it. $! argh). But thanks!!! :)
Excellent video, very clear and precise ! Keep up the good work. Thank you
Excellent video, some great tips and tricks.
pink coolant: 60 usd at dealers, 30 usd at walmart.
I really like your scheme. When I did my clutch, i would draw a diagram by hand and label each bolt by size and length.
You can get to those bottom two bolts much easier if you jack up the passenger side and either remove the wheel, or turn the wheel to the right. A long 3/8 extension helps a lot. Also, I found it easier to just remover the whole air filter box.
Solid video. Great explanation. Thank you!
Just subscribed great job you really go into detail making it easy
Thanks for the sub, glad the video helped!
Nice video 👍
Do I need to disable the hybrid system before replacing the water pump?
❤ you are the best explain this
nice video. I am replacing just the water pump and lost some coolant. Should I just add a premixed solution?
That would be easiest. Otherwise you need to measure out the concentrate and mix with distilled water at the right ratio (most run 50/50, but the bottle has a chart you can follow). Concentrate is cheaper once diluted (you get 2x as much), but less convenient.
Great Video!
Hi I have same problem should I change thermostat at same time or change just water pump❤
Hey bud. If you have the housing for the water pump housing they sell the broken middle piece at ebay fyi
I did not know at the time, but that would have been much cheaper I agree!
There's a guy on YT who mentions this as a cheap fix rather than buying the whole pump. The plastic rotor is usually the culprit and is cheaper to replace .
Is the water pump same as 2014 prius Five ? If so what’s the part number please, thanks for your help
Where do you print those diagrams from?
thank you very much. great video.
Glad it helped, and thank you for the comments!
Water is better to go oem or aftermarket?
I’m seeing a lot of comments on other videos about removing the front passenger tire and you can actually get to the water pump easier?
If the normal Prius/CT200h is a tighter fit than on my Prius V then that might be easier way to go. I had plenty of room with just the air intake removed. Let me know what worked for you.
It's true....but maybe not necessary. There's an access door down there too
What sixe harbor freight rachet is that?
PITTSBURGH PRO 1/4 in, 3/8 in. Drive Long-Reach Dual Flex Head Ratchet - Item 67994
It is very nice to have, I use it all the time. For the little bolts in this video this is all you need. I use a breaker bar on larger stuck bolts.
Why 1/4 and 3/8 when those bolts are metric
What is the part number for the rubber seal on the pump?
Check RockAuto.com, they have many options listed under Cooling System -> Water Pump Gasket
I change water pump and thermostat on my 2013 still overheating after 30 min drive just when i drive over 70mph what can i have to do temperatures gets almost 220
Possibly radiator or head gasket? Can get head gasket test kit with blue fluid, good thing for any car. Radiator blockage would be hard to tell from the outside.
th-cam.com/video/UX2fKheBwm0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=CtObOl0wUOveSZ8K
I hope you find this link helpful. It helped me after a coolant drain/refill and my issue with overheating. God Bless You! Merry Christmas!🎄🌲
What code did you get for the water pump
HELP, please. Problem is sporadic random overheating, accompanied with coolant liquid blown out tru the release valve on the plastic overflow container. I installed new thermostat (ebay), new water pump (the old one looks ok, and the rotor does not appear to be damaged) pressure test was good, keeps 12 psi for long time, exhaust fumes in coolant is negative, I pumped many many many times, the liquid remains blue...
Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Did you get the issue resolved? If we know the head gasket is ok, then no extra heat is being added, there must be an issue with heat being removed. Possibly a blocked radiator, not dissipating the heat. I’m not sure how the ECU controls the water pump, but if the coolant temp sensor was off it might not be requesting enough flow? That is what comes to my mind.
@@BrenoAutoGarage i believe that i solved the problem, but i do not know what exactly was the problem. my radiator is ok, because my liquid is crystal clear transparent, no precipitates, and because i was able to drive 3 h in the hotest part of the day tlh-jax.
then, after i changed the temperature sensor, seems like no more overheating. how and why the temp sensor causes overheating have no idea. Because the theromstate was also changed. unless, malfunctioning temp sensor tells computer the water is cold, and computer reduces the pump rpm. but then comes the funniest part. temp sensor is a platinum wire. because platinum resistivity vs temperature diagram is very well known. please find it on the internet. i checked my temp sensor, it reads 1500-2000 ohms, which is right for ambient temperature. Well, I went tlh- jax and back, no more overheating. (Do you know the song Ohm, Sweet Ohm by Kraftwerk?)
@@west_park7993the temp sensor is what the ecu uses to set command speed for the water pump and radiator fans.
@@cyclonicblade yes. thanks
Any trick to remove the waterpump?? No space to pull it out
You could remove the front right wheel and plastic liner to get more room if it is a tighter fit for you than on my Prius V. Let me know what you did to get it out. I had plenty of room with just the air intake removed.
I have a 2011 and was able to do it myself easily. Not sure if it’s different in other generations. Once you remove the air intake cover it opens up a lot of room. I also took my right front tire off after jacking the car up and it gave so much more room from the bottom. It’s very easy. Do the thermostat at the same time while you’re down there.
CHECK HIBRID SYSTEM
STOP THE VEHICLE
IN A SAFE PLACE.
This comes to my car.
Do I need to change water pump. Or something else????Please help me.
please show thermostat and water pump part#, thanks!
Here you go!
Water Pump - AISIN WPT190
Thermostat - AISIN THT017
What was your error code(s)?
I need to clean my EGR... so I might as well do my water pump while I'm at it... so I might as well do my head gasket too... so I might as well do my transmission fluid flush since everything under the hood is exposed... Man this car got needy fast lol
The worst part is when you go to fix one thing, and break another in the process! Or you find out you need another special tool just for one job. The old can of worms saying can be true for cars lol.
Did my egr cooler a few months ago and getting the coolant pump code, regretting not doing the pump while I had it broke down hahahaha
Is there no drive belt on it at all?
My son's mechanic pointed out that there's no drive belt on the pully.
Good video 🫡
I broke off a bolt in the block trying to put my new pump on. The local shop said they could get it out for $3.2k :')
That is nuts, more than a used engine… Did you find a way to get it out? I’ve been lucky to never break a bolt in a tight spot I couldn’t get to it easily.
@BrenoAutoGarage I couldnt get the bolt out, so I jammed a post into the hole on top of the bolt, caked it with jb weld, put the pump on, put more jb weld into the space in the hole for the water pump bolt, then fastened a nut to it. It had help so far, maybe 5k miles later
Madman enters the chat! Would not be fun to take apart again, but I bet it will hold up.
I would probably have slathered the pump/gasket with RTV in that area and left the bolt missing myself.
Either way, glad to hear you got it done & back on the road.
Very fine
Oh yeah and save yourself about 100 bucks and just replace the rotor and seals inside of the water pump instead of the whole water pump.
I can't get the airbox off wtf
Electrical pump...no bleeding necessary
Also...nothing in this video did you have to do