I’m an Englishman. Love the accent in the narration. Just found you as I am at the research phase for a hobby machine which will allow me to escape “The Wife” as I am now retired I need to escape…….really need to escape. Washing up dishes is not my thing ! Lol.
You know, I have heard that the old southern drawl is only separated a few degrees from an English accent due to colonization back in the day by English settlers and it has evolved into what we have today. So there is obviously a kinship there. ;) And yes, I can relate to the 'Escape". My shop is where I turn the world off, (mostly) and find a bit of peace. Good luck in your endeavors and thank you so much for watching! Cheers!
I started using the pvc and mdf when I saw how well they worked for you in the past. I have found it to be the best hold-down approach to almost all the projects I've been doing since. Good stuff. Thanks.
As a shop teacher with a new cnc this is right up my alley! Much easier to get going than other hardware heavy spoil boards. Plus when my freshmen inevitably gouge it out I won’t have an aneurysm!
Cheapskate for sure but smart. youve clearly displayed wisdom in the trial and error of clamping. It looks like the perfered method. Im sold. Thank your for saving me years of headache and recalculating. I think im going to x those off the list and use that money to buy bits instead.
I noticed your spoil board design in some of your other videos and wondered what the planning behind it was, and then stumbled on this video and now all of my questions have been answered. I now plan to steal shamelessly! Great ideas and great video. I’m now a huge fan. Keep up the great work!!
Gerat vid. I am just getting started. Thanks for sharing your experience. I will be using this waste board, minus the vertical, for now LOL. Also love the idea of a second board for cut throughs. Enjoy
flipping outstanding,,,,, going to add dogholes to mine as well,,,, love your inlay videos as well. ,,,,, I have the Elite Journeyman as well,,, just starting what feed and speed did you run your surfacing bit at??? mine burnt a little last time,,,,, thanks for your great videos.
I'm I mounted one piece of particle board and a piece of MDF on top of my CNC bed. I then using the CNC cut a quarter inch piece of plywood that's got the template routed out into it to hold your pieces and then using the cams that are screwed into the MDF to tie it down with using brass screws and 23 gauge pin nails to hold the loose parts to tie it all down it works very well. Doing this you don't have to spend so much time working on your holes in your wasteboard.
Thank you! I use regular 3/4" PVC pipe. I have found that depending on the manufacturer, PVC pipe can have different OD measurements. Not by much, but enough to where they can be too loose or too tight in the hole you have cut, so I recommend that you measure the OD of the pipe that you have bought to make sure you get a snug fit. With that, and to answer your question, I cut my dog holes at 0.80 inches. It's not too tight to where they are difficult to push in, but not too loose that they don't hold a good edge when I press something up against them. I can push mine in, but i need pliers to pull them out, (but still very easy to remove) and I consider that perfect. Thank you for watching!
@@allenmw2 Allen, my apologies. It's 1/2" PVC, with approx 3/4" outer diameter. I was not thinking when I replied. It's of note that the pipe I used measured 0.78 inches. I'm sure it'll differ among manufacturers.
@RobertTweedy-s9c Please see my recent reply. I wasn't thinking when I replied to you. I used 1/2" PVC pipe, which would have an O.D. of 3/4". My apologies.
Nice ty very much I am going to almost totally copy yours if I may, I like to ask what is that you have protecting your Y axis Rails? Black Cloth or something
Those are dust covers I bought from SolaFide Designs. They are pricey but well worth it to keep dust out of the ball screws and off of the rails. Here is a link if you are interested: www.solafidedesignskc.com/product-page/onefinity-ballsccrew-covers
I just use MDF same as your secondary waste board. I screw all my work pieces to the MDF. I have been through all the clamps and two sided tape. Amazing how many screw holes it will take. Last's a long time. I do not care about pretty. MDF is cheap. Thanks for video.
Screwing down the work is indeed the absolute best method, IMHO. But most of the stuff that I need to secure down is at least 1 to 2 inches thick, and sometimes thicker. And I usually have it cut down to the final dimensions already when cutting it and I don't want to damage it with screws or screw holes, so this has been my best option up until now. Thank you for watching!!
I've been using double-sided tape and t-track and I think that it's time that I tried this method. I have some good tape solutions but t-track seems like one simple mistake away from a broken bit and this is a whole lot faster than tape.
Also, you could always cut a t-slot into the bottom of that middle piece that comes out and then rack it to the externative aluminum underneath. That way you could simply lift out the one piece with everything attached. You probably wouldn't even need all that extruded aluminum for rigidity then.
The extrusion is on 20mm square, and because of the size of the opening, one piece of extrusion wouldn't give it the rigidity that I was looking for. But, if I were to increase the depth of the cut out, you could probably get away with using something larger to keep everything nice and flat. :)
Very nice video, thank you. :) Now, you REALLY, REALLY, REALLY need to make a video covering all the upgrades you did to your CNC. I checked your channel and did not see anything. Guessing it is a Onefinity, right? I have the Onefinity and see some upgrades you have that could be useful.
@@RonKillian Thank you! Did you see my very first video? I talked about all the additions that I did. If it doesn't answer your questions, let me know and I'll put it on my to-do list. Thank you for watching!!
Sometimes on very light pieces, in which case I use the double sided tape. I do a lot of cutting boards and they tend to be fairly heavy so lifting isn't ever a problem. Thank you for watching!
On my most recent spoilboard, I tried dog hole cam clamps, but I got lifting (my material is often 4/4 hardwoods in the 11x11 range). I may experiment with wedges in the next version … for lifting, have you tried planing or sanding a slight angle along the long (non-angled) edge of the wedges? Not sure if that would help, but I know some lateral clamps are designed that way.
@@HighRPMCreations I had the same issue with Cam clamps and why I stopped using them. Yes, the wedges are much more forgiving when it comes to lifting. No, my wedges are cut square, but your idea is worth considering. You could consider 2 things when trying to secure the panel you just described. 4/4 thick and 11x11 square. First, don't clamp them too tightly. You just want to keep the board from moving on the bed. The side clamps aren't meant to keep it from lifting. Just enough pressure to keep it from moving side to side is enough. Secondly, to overcome issues with lifting, I tend to use a down cut bit way more often then an up cut. That alone cures most of the lifting issues. Not to mention, a down cut generally leaves cleaner edges as well. :) I generally only have issues with very small and thin pieces, which I then use double sided tape or as a last resort, I just screw them down. But for the most part, the wedges and using a down cut bit have suited me well. :)
@@HighRPMCreations I believe I have the Kreg version of those. Those round blue ones and they can lift the wood too. I do like that method though but in researching different products that work similar I have seen the Bessey version actually push the wood downward instead of lifting the wood. They are more expensive though but they are on my list for the future. Have you considered those or do you have them already?
@@MandSWoodworks : I’m in the process of replacing my spoilboard, and will definitely give wedges a try. The closest I come to upcut are compression bits, so that’s less of an issue, but I guess I am more comfortable with tighter holding than light. Don’t want anything letting go, getting dragged around by a bit doing high RPMs and catching my place on fire 🫨
Genius! I've got a Longmill MK2.5 48x30. I've tried them all, the T-tracks, threaded inserts, T-nuts and I'm not happy with any of it. I will be stealing every bit of your design, including the removable part for my Vortex 4th axis. I'm interested in seeing how you made the vertical insert. Do you have a video about that?
Steal away, and good luck with it! Unfortunately no, I don't have a video specifically for that. It was actually very easy to make. Admittedly, I shamelessly copied the design from a guy who sells the plans on Etsy, but I did buy the plans from his Etsy store and then make what I wanted. I didn't use his cutting files, but I did reverse engineer it to work with my setup and I used his plans as a template. Here is a link to it, if you're interested. www.etsy.com/listing/1172990836/vertical-mounting-table-fixture-for-cnc
@@MandSWoodworks Thanks for the link. I'll have to modify it as well. I plan on putting it on the x-axis like you did, but I'll have to move it farther to the right, since I have drawers under the left side of the table. I'm not entirely sure if I want to go through the trouble to make it. I use my table saw and router table to do those types of joinery. Anyway, I'll download the file, just in case I change my mind, which I tend to do on a regular basis.
@@ronhansen7717 In all honesty, I've only used it on a project a couple of times since I built it, but it did come in handy. It's one of those things that you don't really need, but it's cool to have. I've played around with circle joints, dove tails and the like and it's actually fun. Good luck!
I actually bought the design for the cutting jig off of Etsy. So if you look at mine, visually it looks almost identical to the one from Etsy. But I did change some things on it and resize it to accommodate the idea of fitting it as an insert into the table. Here's a link if you want to check it out. www.etsy.com/listing/1172990836/vertical-mounting-table-fixture-for-cnc Thank you for watching!!
It's incredibly easy to make your own. First, measure the diameter of the PVC pipe that you have, and then create a series of circles that are that size, and put them into a pattern that you like. The pattern I settled on had the circles a little less than 3 inches apart. Thank you for watching!
I’ve seen in one of your other videos how you set x, y, and Z zero for your rotary axis. Have you ever tried creating an offset for it? I’d be curious to see how repeatable it would, at least for x and z
The Y and Z offset would remain consistent but not the X. It would change for each new project so you'd have to set that each time. With that, if I've already set everything up to zero out the X, I might as well do the others while I'm there.
I just had a thought on this. Would it be beneficial to bevel the edges of the dog holes? Raising to ask is if you wanted something like pop-up dogs you could. Just a thought! 😊
It would indeed be a nice addition to add pop-up dog holes, but in the spirit of keeping this simple, I opted to just use the PVC. Thank you for watching!
What's your reason for the offset holes in your spoil board? I have seen spoil boards with the holes are aligned in a grid pattern so I'm wondering if there is an advantage - disadvantage to either layout. Thank you.
The advantage to me is that it allows for more clamping options depending on the dimensions of the workpiece you are trying to secure. For example: On my spoil board, the hole pattern puts each dog hole spaced at a little over 3 inches. If the edge of the workpiece was too close to a dog hole to allow for a clamp/wedge, then the next available dog hole would be over 3 inches away. But by having them offset, I now have an available dog hole that is only 1.5 inches away. So I have more clamping options, but with fewer dog holes to cut into the wasteboard. I hope that made sense. Thank you for watching!
Great video! I like that your searching shows me in the top result ;). The wedges work well for down cut bits and routers/spindles that don't have a lot of HP, but I've found that higher power machines with up-cut bits will lift the workpiece up when using wedges. Has this not been an issue for you? Using PVC is great because it is cheap and it won't hurt if you hit it with a it. Have you found issues with accuracy due to it? I'd worry about the PVC not being quite consistent in diameter.....but maybe that really isn't a problem. I should give it a try! I know BroInWood uses similar techniques for a lot of his cutting boards.
Thanks Corbin! That Dragon Scale Bowl is next level! To answer your questions... I have found that if the workpiece has any weight to it, like the cutting boards I make, then I don't get any lifting whatsoever. If I need to clear or profile something small, and/or thin I either tape it down or use screws with no issue. I'm not one to make aggressive clearing or profile cuts anyway, so if I do use an up-cut, 1/8"DOC on a 1/4" bit is all I usually take anyway. For no other reason than extend bit life. I don't ever get into a hurry, really. Joys of this remaining a hobby. I don't have orders to fill. ;) Regarding the PVC stops, they have not failed me yet. The dog holes I have along the fence line are slightly smaller than the rest of the bed to keep the pvc stops rigid. I am sure that they aren't consistently round, but lining up the work on several of the stops at once along the fence, I am pretty sure it ends up being a wash and that 'plane' ends up perfectly parallel with the gantries. I would bet a wooden nickel that my repeatability is within 2 or 3 thousandths. I base that on my experience cutting multiple inlays, each time removing the board from the bed for glue-ups, and after re-installing it onto the bed, the next cut will cut perfectly along the edge of the previous inlay. Thanks for watching and keep up the good work with your channel!
this is a stupid question so sorry but I have a onefinity as well and the probe plate for the z axis that you made a cubby for, you still put that on top of your material and probe z, right? The cubby you cut out is just it's "home" when not in use?
Not a stupid question at all. I have the Masso controller and it allows for a bit setter, but you can't use the same block for zero-ing that you do for the bit setter. I have a different probing block for zero-ing to the work and I use the old Onefinity block as my bit setter, so it stays in the cubby 100% of the time. Thank you for watching!!
I wouldn’t call it cheapskate. That’s the spoil board I use. I find it effective. I use double masking tape and CA glue when using upcut bits. Easy to resurface and use.
@@misury Absolutely! I am traveling home at the moment couple of questions 1 what software are you using? What is the size of your cutting surface? It will either tomorrow or Saturday.
@@kevinrich4637 You ROCK! I have the original woodworker, which is the 32x32 working area. I have the vectric vcarve pro.. and I really need to learn that, but unfortunately life's getting in the way again. 😏
Sadly, no. They're a bit smaller, but still work well. I've had thoughts of 3d printing a bushing to get a better fit but as mentioned, they still hold well despite being a bit smaller.
I'm running one of the cheapo Chinese spindles, but I haven't had any trouble out of it in 3 years. It's the Hy Huanyang 2.2kw Spindle and VFD. I don't judge Onefinity. They started out just selling the hardware of the machine. What little they do endorse these days is due to pressure from the public. I think it's smart from a business perspective. They keep the overhead low and they only have one piece to support. And due to the design of it, it keeps it somewhat modular and you can add whatever you want to it, and not be limited by what they provide. Thank you for watching!!
I have no complaints. The hardware combined with the Masso controller is a fine marriage. I think for the specs and the price you can't get any better.
Hi Tracy, Sorry, no. I actually made this on the fly. Drawing up a waste board is incredibly easy to do, and is a great first project for you to take on. Use your CAD software to create bunch of circles in a pattern that you desire, and cut them on your waste board. The Dog Hole pattern I chose has the holes right at 3 1/8 inches apart from each other. I use 3/4 inch PVC and the brand that I bought, the OD of the pipe was 0.8 inches, so that is the size that I cut my dog holes. I hope that this helps. Thank you for watching!
This is awesome! Thank you for sharing. I'm curious if you have a file generated for the waste board you might share, out maybe an Etsy where we can support your work? 😊😉
Thank you! I'll make a deal with you... I'll share the svg if you promise not to tell anyone. lol Here is a download link. Thank you for watching! www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z8860c2oijknk98590u6e/Journeyman-Turbo-Powered-Waste-Board.svg?rlkey=uaswl7cu7sn5uy61qp7808rhh&dl=0
I’m an Englishman.
Love the accent in the narration.
Just found you as I am at the research phase for a hobby machine which will allow me to escape “The Wife” as I am now retired I need to escape…….really need to escape.
Washing up dishes is not my thing ! Lol.
You know, I have heard that the old southern drawl is only separated a few degrees from an English accent due to colonization back in the day by English settlers and it has evolved into what we have today. So there is obviously a kinship there. ;)
And yes, I can relate to the 'Escape". My shop is where I turn the world off, (mostly) and find a bit of peace.
Good luck in your endeavors and thank you so much for watching!
Cheers!
I started using the pvc and mdf when I saw how well they worked for you in the past. I have found it to be the best hold-down approach to almost all the projects I've been doing since. Good stuff. Thanks.
As a shop teacher with a new cnc this is right up my alley! Much easier to get going than other hardware heavy spoil boards. Plus when my freshmen inevitably gouge it out I won’t have an aneurysm!
Thank you for what you do as an educator!
Yes indeed! It's not only a money saver, but it helps to keep you sane! Ha!
Thank you for watching!!
Get out of my head! Nice work! I'm getting ready to cut my spoil board using a couple of the tips you've shared here.
Thanks buddy!
I'm glad it helped!
BTW, I have some news that I will share with you later.
Happy Memorial Day!
Cheapskate for sure but smart. youve clearly displayed wisdom in the trial and error of clamping. It looks like the perfered method. Im sold. Thank your for saving me years of headache and recalculating. I think im going to x those off the list and use that money to buy bits instead.
I noticed your spoil board design in some of your other videos and wondered what the planning behind it was, and then stumbled on this video and now all of my questions have been answered. I now plan to steal shamelessly! Great ideas and great video. I’m now a huge fan. Keep up the great work!!
Steal this with no guilt whatsoever. ;)
Thank you for watching!!
Another great video, you keep getting better Scott.
Thank you sir!!
Gerat vid. I am just getting started. Thanks for sharing your experience. I will be using this waste board, minus the vertical, for now LOL. Also love the idea of a second board for cut throughs. Enjoy
So simple. Love the technique!
flipping outstanding,,,,, going to add dogholes to mine as well,,,, love your inlay videos as well. ,,,,, I have the Elite Journeyman as well,,, just starting what feed and speed did you run your surfacing bit at??? mine burnt a little last time,,,,, thanks for your great videos.
I'm I mounted one piece of particle board and a piece of MDF on top of my CNC bed. I then using the CNC cut a quarter inch piece of plywood that's got the template routed out into it to hold your pieces and then using the cams that are screwed into the MDF to tie it down with using brass screws and 23 gauge pin nails to hold the loose parts to tie it all down it works very well. Doing this you don't have to spend so much time working on your holes in your wasteboard.
Great video. May I ask the dog hole diameter and the pvc pipe size you are using.
Thank you!
I use regular 3/4" PVC pipe.
I have found that depending on the manufacturer, PVC pipe can have different OD measurements. Not by much, but enough to where they can be too loose or too tight in the hole you have cut, so I recommend that you measure the OD of the pipe that you have bought to make sure you get a snug fit.
With that, and to answer your question, I cut my dog holes at 0.80 inches.
It's not too tight to where they are difficult to push in, but not too loose that they don't hold a good edge when I press something up against them.
I can push mine in, but i need pliers to pull them out, (but still very easy to remove) and I consider that perfect.
Thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworks Thanks for the info. I am researching all things CNC to try and figure out how I want to set up my first system. Thanks for the info,
@@MandSWoodworks I'm confused. Are you saying 3/4" pvc (which measures just over an inch), or 1/2" pvc that measures just over 3/4 (.80) inch?
@@allenmw2
Allen, my apologies.
It's 1/2" PVC, with approx 3/4" outer diameter.
I was not thinking when I replied.
It's of note that the pipe I used measured 0.78 inches.
I'm sure it'll differ among manufacturers.
@RobertTweedy-s9c
Please see my recent reply. I wasn't thinking when I replied to you. I used 1/2" PVC pipe, which would have an O.D. of 3/4". My apologies.
Nice ty very much I am going to almost totally copy yours if I may, I like to ask what is that you have protecting your Y axis Rails? Black Cloth or something
Those are dust covers I bought from SolaFide Designs. They are pricey but well worth it to keep dust out of the ball screws and off of the rails.
Here is a link if you are interested:
www.solafidedesignskc.com/product-page/onefinity-ballsccrew-covers
And yes, copy away.
Good luck with it!
Thank you for watching!
Good Solution 🤠👍 i use this also for Flat Material 👌
I just use MDF same as your secondary waste board. I screw all my work pieces to the MDF. I have been through all the clamps and two sided tape. Amazing how many screw holes it will take. Last's a long time. I do not care about pretty. MDF is cheap. Thanks for video.
Screwing down the work is indeed the absolute best method, IMHO.
But most of the stuff that I need to secure down is at least 1 to 2 inches thick, and sometimes thicker.
And I usually have it cut down to the final dimensions already when cutting it and I don't want to damage it with screws or screw holes, so this has been my best option up until now.
Thank you for watching!!
Love the offset spoilboard holes, I need to add that to mine. Whats speeds did you run the holes at?
Remember that I used a 1/2" endmill to cut the dog holes...
Feed rate was 50ipm and the spindle was 12k RPM.
Thank you for watching!
I've been using double-sided tape and t-track and I think that it's time that I tried this method. I have some good tape solutions but t-track seems like one simple mistake away from a broken bit and this is a whole lot faster than tape.
Also, you could always cut a t-slot into the bottom of that middle piece that comes out and then rack it to the externative aluminum underneath. That way you could simply lift out the one piece with everything attached. You probably wouldn't even need all that extruded aluminum for rigidity then.
The extrusion is on 20mm square, and because of the size of the opening, one piece of extrusion wouldn't give it the rigidity that I was looking for. But, if I were to increase the depth of the cut out, you could probably get away with using something larger to keep everything nice and flat. :)
Very nice video, thank you. :) Now, you REALLY, REALLY, REALLY need to make a video covering all the upgrades you did to your CNC. I checked your channel and did not see anything. Guessing it is a Onefinity, right? I have the Onefinity and see some upgrades you have that could be useful.
@@RonKillian
Thank you!
Did you see my very first video?
I talked about all the additions that I did.
If it doesn't answer your questions, let me know and I'll put it on my to-do list.
Thank you for watching!!
As your putting the wedges in to hold a piece, do you ever find that it lifts the wood?
Sometimes on very light pieces, in which case I use the double sided tape.
I do a lot of cutting boards and they tend to be fairly heavy so lifting isn't ever a problem.
Thank you for watching!
On my most recent spoilboard, I tried dog hole cam clamps, but I got lifting (my material is often 4/4 hardwoods in the 11x11 range). I may experiment with wedges in the next version … for lifting, have you tried planing or sanding a slight angle along the long (non-angled) edge of the wedges? Not sure if that would help, but I know some lateral clamps are designed that way.
@@HighRPMCreations
I had the same issue with Cam clamps and why I stopped using them. Yes, the wedges are much more forgiving when it comes to lifting. No, my wedges are cut square, but your idea is worth considering.
You could consider 2 things when trying to secure the panel you just described. 4/4 thick and 11x11 square.
First, don't clamp them too tightly. You just want to keep the board from moving on the bed. The side clamps aren't meant to keep it from lifting. Just enough pressure to keep it from moving side to side is enough.
Secondly, to overcome issues with lifting, I tend to use a down cut bit way more often then an up cut. That alone cures most of the lifting issues. Not to mention, a down cut generally leaves cleaner edges as well. :)
I generally only have issues with very small and thin pieces, which I then use double sided tape or as a last resort, I just screw them down.
But for the most part, the wedges and using a down cut bit have suited me well. :)
@@HighRPMCreations
I believe I have the Kreg version of those. Those round blue ones and they can lift the wood too. I do like that method though but in researching different products that work similar I have seen the Bessey version actually push the wood downward instead of lifting the wood. They are more expensive though but they are on my list for the future. Have you considered those or do you have them already?
@@MandSWoodworks : I’m in the process of replacing my spoilboard, and will definitely give wedges a try.
The closest I come to upcut are compression bits, so that’s less of an issue, but I guess I am more comfortable with tighter holding than light. Don’t want anything letting go, getting dragged around by a bit doing high RPMs and catching my place on fire 🫨
Genius! I've got a Longmill MK2.5 48x30. I've tried them all, the T-tracks, threaded inserts, T-nuts and I'm not happy with any of it. I will be stealing every bit of your design, including the removable part for my Vortex 4th axis. I'm interested in seeing how you made the vertical insert. Do you have a video about that?
Steal away, and good luck with it!
Unfortunately no, I don't have a video specifically for that.
It was actually very easy to make. Admittedly, I shamelessly copied the design from a guy who sells the plans on Etsy, but I did buy the plans from his Etsy store and then make what I wanted.
I didn't use his cutting files, but I did reverse engineer it to work with my setup and I used his plans as a template.
Here is a link to it, if you're interested.
www.etsy.com/listing/1172990836/vertical-mounting-table-fixture-for-cnc
@@MandSWoodworks Thanks for the link. I'll have to modify it as well. I plan on putting it on the x-axis like you did, but I'll have to move it farther to the right, since I have drawers under the left side of the table. I'm not entirely sure if I want to go through the trouble to make it. I use my table saw and router table to do those types of joinery. Anyway, I'll download the file, just in case I change my mind, which I tend to do on a regular basis.
@@ronhansen7717
In all honesty, I've only used it on a project a couple of times since I built it, but it did come in handy.
It's one of those things that you don't really need, but it's cool to have.
I've played around with circle joints, dove tails and the like and it's actually fun.
Good luck!
Sir, I’m going to need a video on how to do that vertical cutting jig. I want this for my longmill
I actually bought the design for the cutting jig off of Etsy. So if you look at mine, visually it looks almost identical to the one from Etsy. But I did change some things on it and resize it to accommodate the idea of fitting it as an insert into the table. Here's a link if you want to check it out.
www.etsy.com/listing/1172990836/vertical-mounting-table-fixture-for-cnc
Thank you for watching!!
@ thanks! I loved this video! You should definitely shoot more!
@ this is close enough, looks like money well spent. My spoil board is even set up like that with t-track. I like yours better though
What a fantastic idea! Any chance you are willing to share your CNC file? I understand changes will need to be made to the file for me needs.
It's incredibly easy to make your own.
First, measure the diameter of the PVC pipe that you have, and then create a series of circles that are that size, and put them into a pattern that you like.
The pattern I settled on had the circles a little less than 3 inches apart.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you 🙏🏾 140
I’ve seen in one of your other videos how you set x, y, and Z zero for your rotary axis. Have you ever tried creating an offset for it? I’d be curious to see how repeatable it would, at least for x and z
The Y and Z offset would remain consistent but not the X.
It would change for each new project so you'd have to set that each time.
With that, if I've already set everything up to zero out the X, I might as well do the others while I'm there.
I just had a thought on this. Would it be beneficial to bevel the edges of the dog holes? Raising to ask is if you wanted something like pop-up dogs you could. Just a thought! 😊
It would indeed be a nice addition to add pop-up dog holes, but in the spirit of keeping this simple, I opted to just use the PVC.
Thank you for watching!
What's your reason for the offset holes in your spoil board? I have seen spoil boards with the holes are aligned in a grid pattern so I'm wondering if there is an advantage - disadvantage to either layout. Thank you.
The advantage to me is that it allows for more clamping options depending on the dimensions of the workpiece you are trying to secure.
For example:
On my spoil board, the hole pattern puts each dog hole spaced at a little over 3 inches.
If the edge of the workpiece was too close to a dog hole to allow for a clamp/wedge, then the next available dog hole would be over 3 inches away.
But by having them offset, I now have an available dog hole that is only 1.5 inches away.
So I have more clamping options, but with fewer dog holes to cut into the wasteboard.
I hope that made sense.
Thank you for watching!
Great video! I like that your searching shows me in the top result ;). The wedges work well for down cut bits and routers/spindles that don't have a lot of HP, but I've found that higher power machines with up-cut bits will lift the workpiece up when using wedges. Has this not been an issue for you?
Using PVC is great because it is cheap and it won't hurt if you hit it with a it. Have you found issues with accuracy due to it? I'd worry about the PVC not being quite consistent in diameter.....but maybe that really isn't a problem. I should give it a try! I know BroInWood uses similar techniques for a lot of his cutting boards.
Thanks Corbin!
That Dragon Scale Bowl is next level!
To answer your questions...
I have found that if the workpiece has any weight to it, like the cutting boards I make, then I don't get any lifting whatsoever. If I need to clear or profile something small, and/or thin I either tape it down or use screws with no issue.
I'm not one to make aggressive clearing or profile cuts anyway, so if I do use an up-cut, 1/8"DOC on a 1/4" bit is all I usually take anyway. For no other reason than extend bit life. I don't ever get into a hurry, really. Joys of this remaining a hobby. I don't have orders to fill. ;)
Regarding the PVC stops, they have not failed me yet. The dog holes I have along the fence line are slightly smaller than the rest of the bed to keep the pvc stops rigid. I am sure that they aren't consistently round, but lining up the work on several of the stops at once along the fence, I am pretty sure it ends up being a wash and that 'plane' ends up perfectly parallel with the gantries. I would bet a wooden nickel that my repeatability is within 2 or 3 thousandths. I base that on my experience cutting multiple inlays, each time removing the board from the bed for glue-ups, and after re-installing it onto the bed, the next cut will cut perfectly along the edge of the previous inlay.
Thanks for watching and keep up the good work with your channel!
this is a stupid question so sorry but I have a onefinity as well and the probe plate for the z axis that you made a cubby for, you still put that on top of your material and probe z, right? The cubby you cut out is just it's "home" when not in use?
Not a stupid question at all.
I have the Masso controller and it allows for a bit setter, but you can't use the same block for zero-ing that you do for the bit setter.
I have a different probing block for zero-ing to the work and I use the old Onefinity block as my bit setter, so it stays in the cubby 100% of the time.
Thank you for watching!!
@@MandSWoodworks ohh I see, I do not have the masso, just the first one (buildbotic I think or something like that)
Thanks for explaining
I wouldn’t call it cheapskate. That’s the spoil board I use. I find it effective. I use double masking tape and CA glue when using upcut bits. Easy to resurface and use.
Might I ask.. how did you make the waste board? I'm still lacking the skills in creating these kind of things. 😂
@@misury Absolutely! I am traveling home at the moment couple of questions 1 what software are you using? What is the size of your cutting surface? It will either tomorrow or Saturday.
@@kevinrich4637 You ROCK! I have the original woodworker, which is the 32x32 working area. I have the vectric vcarve pro.. and I really need to learn that, but unfortunately life's getting in the way again. 😏
Nice work!
What type of material is your table made from, that the threaded inserts are installed into? It’s a different color than the MDF.
It's also MDF.
I sealed it with several coats of Shellac, and that is why the color is different.
Thank you for watching!!
Are those bench dog clamps the same diameter as the pvc pipe?
Sadly, no.
They're a bit smaller, but still work well.
I've had thoughts of 3d printing a bushing to get a better fit but as mentioned, they still hold well despite being a bit smaller.
What spindle are you running? Odd to me that Onefinity doesn’t sell one like some other brands do…..
I'm running one of the cheapo Chinese spindles, but I haven't had any trouble out of it in 3 years.
It's the Hy Huanyang 2.2kw Spindle and VFD.
I don't judge Onefinity. They started out just selling the hardware of the machine. What little they do endorse these days is due to pressure from the public.
I think it's smart from a business perspective. They keep the overhead low and they only have one piece to support.
And due to the design of it, it keeps it somewhat modular and you can add whatever you want to it, and not be limited by what they provide.
Thank you for watching!!
How do you like the Onefinity? I seen in the beginning of this video you have owned other machines any specific reason you use the OF as of now?
I have no complaints.
The hardware combined with the Masso controller is a fine marriage.
I think for the specs and the price you can't get any better.
Genius!
im new to this do u have files for this
Hi Tracy,
Sorry, no. I actually made this on the fly.
Drawing up a waste board is incredibly easy to do, and is a great first project for you to take on.
Use your CAD software to create bunch of circles in a pattern that you desire, and cut them on your waste board.
The Dog Hole pattern I chose has the holes right at 3 1/8 inches apart from each other.
I use 3/4 inch PVC and the brand that I bought, the OD of the pipe was 0.8 inches, so that is the size that I cut my dog holes.
I hope that this helps.
Thank you for watching!
This is awesome! Thank you for sharing. I'm curious if you have a file generated for the waste board you might share, out maybe an Etsy where we can support your work? 😊😉
Thank you!
I'll make a deal with you...
I'll share the svg if you promise not to tell anyone. lol
Here is a download link. Thank you for watching!
www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/z8860c2oijknk98590u6e/Journeyman-Turbo-Powered-Waste-Board.svg?rlkey=uaswl7cu7sn5uy61qp7808rhh&dl=0
@@MandSWoodworks thank you so much! Mum is the word. 😉
@@MandSWoodworks Thanks you very much you're wonderful
How do ya know? Lol
Been there.
Done that.
😁