Router Table Build - For Your Table Saw (Easy)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.ย. 2024
- Router Table Build. Rob Cosman shows you how to make a router insert for your table saw. This is a easy and very efficient place to locate your router. You can use the table saw fence as your router fence. Most of the table is already built since you are using a wing of your table saw.
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Every time I hear the intro I always think, "You know what, you've done your job, Rob, you have made me a better woodworker.".
I love this channel. I don't actually use a ton of hand tools, but there is just soooo much information in every video that goes beyond the main topic that I learn something new every time. I show the wood movement video to every woodworker I know. It was a game changer for me, and almost all of them keep it on a playlist to refer back to when needed.
Thanks to everyone who helps put these videos together, they are really well done, and have improved so much over time. I really look forward to new videos dropping. Stay safe, and best wishes.
Thanks Miles, so glad they are helpful. I will pass your comments on to Luther, Jake and Frick, we all work together to make these videos
Using the tape to copy the corner radius is one of those zillions of tips I get from ww videos. I appreciate that things don't always go perfectly, and seeing that honestly depicted here.
I like nonchalantly you introduced the table saw. “This here is the industrial sawstop.” I’m sitting here drooling over that saw!!
Its the only brand to get.. period
Great tip to use the CA glue on the MDF.
I do it all the time to toughen up the core. Thanks for commenting
this saved me money on a router table plate from amazon. thanks rob. also i always find your work entertaining. your slightly scatterbrian yet super excellent work makes me see that someday i could be half as good as you. thanks for taking the time to make these videos
I’m a super new woodworker starting my first project next week, I have learned so much from your channel. Thank you so much. It is so appreciated.
Great to hear! let me know how your first project goes
I like your teaching style. You explain your thinking as you go, and don't rush. Your accent and the timbre of your voice remind me of Red Green, but you build stuff that actually work!
Nice video! I am about to refresh the router table my Dad made and I will use many of your details.
Thank you.
thanks for commenting
I love your style of teaching. You talk through your thinking. It makes everything less daunting. WWRCD… he would talk it through before moving forward.
I think the reason I love watching Rob so much is you can just TELL how impatient he is with all parts of the universe that don't involve him in some way manipulating (cutting, shaping, smoothing, refining, coloring, etc.) wood.
Even tools.
Like most woodworkers, I'm a total geek when it comes to tools. Can't get enough. Rob clearly appreciates FINE tools... but only for what they can do for him... when it comes to manipulating wood. Like, every time I watch him sharpening something, he goes at it like he's personally offended at the universe for dragging him away from his tree butchery...
...until the last 90 seconds or so. The he gets excited. His subconscious has just perked back up/tuned back in. "We're gonna hafta test that you know." (I always picture) comes it's sly remark to his id. "What? Yes fine, whatever!" It snaps back, concentrating.
Then, giddy with the confirmation and soaring on feathered, shaving-clad wings trailing a cloud of sawdust, his inner journeyman (if Rob has an inner child he has it in the back oiling something) begins to show, like a senior with a really hot prom date who has a "reputation".
The last 30 seconds are like watching a cabinet maker's ballet, a man who, like a flight attendant going through the motions of how to work a lap belt, performs the steps he's executed more times than anyone can count as a single fluid gesture, total economy of movement.
Then, the best part (I think): you can actually SEE the words "f-ing FINALLY" cross his features as he damn near SPRINTS to the nearest billet, board, blank, or burl - gods help the intern unfortunate, in the Darwinian sense, to be standing along that path (he IS holding the sharpest item in the shop at that moment, after all) - grabs hold of it, and that same blissful, beatific look ones sees on a heroin junkie, just out of prison, and turning into his dealers driveway, settles across his features.
I swear: on that cabinet scraper tutorial, I'm pretty sure he cut himself a line of walnut dust then and there when the camera panned away.
I love woodworking. It's my favorite hobby in life. Rob's least favorite hobby is life. Crap keeps getting in the way of his woodworking. It's like watching Tiger Woods with a golf club, Michael Jordan with a basketball, Neil deGrasse Tyson with a telescope, Donald Trump with his own horn. That's a man who found his Shangri-La.
...until the F-ING THING GETS DULL AGAIN! :)
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a detailed comment
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I hope he took every word as flattering; it was intended to be. Rob's a personal hero.
I truly appreciate your videos! Even though the editing and camera are well done, the human aspect (error) is not removed. I like seeing how you approach changes, challenges and errors! It's sometimes difficult for a new woodworker like me to watch these videos and get a little down about messing something up. You show the process, good and bad, which proves no matter how long you're at something there is always room for error 😁
Thanks we always show the errors learning how to fix the errors is almost more important than learning how to build the thing in the first place
I found that removing the springs from the router makes for easier adjustments, especially if I have a router that I can dedicate to this type of operation.
Just subscribed, love the router table, I will give it a bash
I have used boshes cut on push blades and they've worked well everytime
Beautiful, well equipped workshop! I’m so envious!
Ohh to be living in Canada and using those square drive screws. Most common screws in Australia are either Phillips or straight slot. You can get them here, but they are a specialty. I might just convert over and just be done with it.
Once you use them you will never go back
No insert plate or top access adjustment...mind blown. Nice work!
Thanks for watching and commenting
Thanks Rob, there were lots of handy tips in that one 😊
I just bought a new router , thanks for this project !
let me know how your build comes out
Whoa! New intro! Time to learn this one word for word aswell. Great video as always rob
we reshot all the call to action videos...and I shaved!!!!
If you seal the mdf with poly on all sides it will make it more moisture resistant, tougher,last longer, and slicker (and easer to wax)
you got it
Rob -- I always benefit from seeing you in action. I particularly enjoy watching you diagnose and solve a problem. My two for 'next time': First, use the saw's fence to help with laying out the location of the opening in the saw's wing. Second, cover both sides of the MDF plate with plastic laminate. It will help make the plate much more durable.
Having said that, I think I've made my last custom plate for a router table. I use a number of different sized bits in my router table. Either I need to make a bunch of plates and switch them out as I switch bits, or I'm going to have a plate that a hole large enough for my largest bits -- which would mean using a plate with a too-large-hole for my smaller bits. The advantage of the commercially available plates are the variety of throat-inserts that allow you to customize the size of the opening to fit the bit you're using.
Leave it to RC to look past a tool’s original design and Cosmanize it with aplomb. That is such a good “next level” example for me. So many instruction manuals warn against modification, voiding warranties. A mind like Rob’s is necessary to modify safely so that progress can be made.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Well, sir, it must be a luxury to have a massive table saw, and I don't have any DeWalt tools. However, I'm sure the process will work as good using Ryobi. Thanks for sharing, Rob. I will be trying this!
Great space saving technique~! I really love the tape trick you demonstrated. I've seen a lot of tape tricks, but that one was a first. Thanks much, Rob~!
Brilliant thank you that is exactly what I wanted. Top Job
Nice video thank you. I think I will build similar to save space.
Excellent as always Rob. Great delivery and execution. I have a new router to mount so thank you.
thanks for watching and commenting
Hey Rob, in the future when routing MDF, please use some sort of respirator/dust mask. It is NASTY stuff and we need you around.
Yes that’s why I changed and put on the mask and made the comment that I should have been wearing one
@@RobCosmanWoodworking - don't know how I missed that part.
Thank you, this is my next project!
Hope you enjoy it! send me a pic when its done
Great job Rob, I realise sawstop makes router table that does exactly what you are doing here but at huge cost. Great tips with the blue tape
Well they make one for the cast iron ring for the win
Cast iron wing and one for the saw table but we’ve gotten reports of the cast iron wing drooping under the weight of heavy saws and I didn’t wanna spend the money for the tablesaw insert
Terrific instruction! Thank you.
Well done!
There are saw blades with the teeth directing in the other way, (downwards) just to keep a clean cutting edge on the top They work like a charm kind regards Hans
I've learnt a huge amount from these videos. Thank you. In this case given that you comment that you could change router bits in place, wouldn't it have been quicker, easier and more reliable to just bolt the router to the underside of the existing table? You've gone to a lot of effort to cut a hole in an already flat and smooth table, and then fill it in again.
His concern was deflection of the table when considering the weight of the router, and the relatively thin Sawstop table/extension material. Stumpynubs, another TH-cam guy, identified the same problem as he initially did as you suggested as well.
Maybe he’s doing it to make the router removable? And cut the hole so that he can … put other tools like a jig saw or … a different tool in there?
Idk I’m still watching. Hmm. …. Man, He sure does a long time to do stuff though. It’s like… it’s sort of boring watching someone try to figure Things out as they go…. Especially when it’s doing things you’re totally not gonna be doing also - & all you wanted to do was get the solid steps & techniques on how to make or do something. I mean dude like WHOAH … all I’ve seen so far almost half way through is…. a hole be cut… & since then - some fussing with the fine details of it… &
******* Whoahhh again. I’m back. I’m sure no one even noticed but I left but I did. Yeah I Went to the kitchen.. got something to drink.. I was a little thirsty. I left my phone on the chair - it was still playing this video when I left the room. I had a whole conversation with my Mom - about juice. & laundry baskets & stuff.. and now I’m back. And to my ‘surprise’ (& this is the reason I typed WHOAH a second time) when I got back…. This guy was STILL FUSSING with that God for sakin HOLE. Jeeeez REALLY? Uhhhhh.
While he fusses some more with that hole & that glue…. I just thought I’d point out that at the beginning he started the video out by saying his name with pride: ROB.. Coswaybor something. & I LIKED the way he said his name. Such confidence. The way he said it made ME confident in HIM. Thus… the reason im sitting here almost 30 mins in. But he Also said at the beginning of the video was that he’s gonna “show us how HE makes them” (router tables that is.) I bring that up because by the looks of this he.. DOESN’T.. “make them.” Not often. If he did, I’d think he’d have this whole thing DOWN. But he doesn’t. In fact this whole video….. this man appears to have been winging this project. If I didn’t know any better I just might think this guy was layin it on a little think…. Trying to make it sound like he makes them all the time & stuff. “Im gonna show you how “I”‘make them.
Dude I’m just gonna say it ok?! And……I mean this is like…. it’s like the worst router table making video I think I’ve SEEN. I mean, Ive never seen any other videos from this guy but from the comments it sounds like he has some viewers that are fond of him. Sounds like he has some fans. So I’ll give him the benefit of the doubt & assume that this one was just a … FLOP. I mean … horrible. This video SUCKED. WORST router table video possibly on all of TH-cam. MAN I wish I never turned this video on. Think I wanna watch some man FUSS over GLUE & some HOLE in a table & nit pick the whole time about the very work he made jt sound like he did all the time.
Pfffft.
Ingenious, and excellent instruction as always.
Thanks for watching and commenting
Perfect timing. I am doing one this weekend
Thanks
we knew that which is why we made this for you !!!!!
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Why thank you haha
Excellent - thanks for sharing
Well done.. I have a 52" PCS, but the right side is up against a wall and I didn't get the wheels so I guess first the wheels, make a lot of new space somehow THEN the router insert. In the meantime I'll keep using my cheapo knock together router table..
Nice job Rob!
Thanks for watching and commenting
Looks great
I love this channel and I love the DIY aspect of this project, but I would have bought either a aluminum router plate made for this router model (or a universal one), or used phenolic board for the base vs. MDF.
That works too. I prefer MDF. they are both good options
Great instruction on how to do this without spending hundreds of dollars on router lifts and such.
I used a leftover piece of melamine for mine and from the looks of the underside of your SawStop table, I braced mine exactly the same way (makes me feel good). I have a Bosch 1617 router so I bought a Bosch plate as I didn't want to run into any fitment issues.
I made a fence using plans from #dpmakestuff and I'm finishing up a dust box made from scrap plywood.
I love the options a router table gives me. I've had a router for a quite a while but without a table, I hardly ever used it. Now I use it a lot. Rabbets and dados are so much easier than using a table saw (wherever possible, of course) with a single blade. I make my own trim whenever I can, too, as profiling on a router table is so much safer and easier.
How do you like the Bosch 1617?
I do like that use of the CA glue on the mdf raw edge. .
Its a real neat way to toughen up MDF core
Loved this build and video. I have a home made router table that I’ve tweaked and improved over the years and now off to change how i set up for levelling the insert. Thanks for sharing and providing inspiration.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video and a great option. Agree that using this part of the table saw for a router is perfect. I did the same thing at first but then upgraded to the SawStop cast iron extension top that allows for a router plate and router lift. Added the Jessem plate and router lift with a porter cable 3 1/4 HP router motor. Its amazing. Even when reinforced the standard extension table can't handle the weight of the big motor and lift. It sags eventually.
Hey that’s great feedback thanks
Agree but the cost is tremendous, Rob's solution is by far and away bare bones minimal.
I just made ine myself as well on melamine.
Whats the point of making and fitting the plate rather than just mounting it directly to the bottom of the board?
Im sure theres a reason but i just diy it without really looking into examples and that's what made the most sense to me.
Great idea Rob, I may try building one into my table saw. After... I learn how to use my new dove tail saw. It came yesterday, how nice!! Thank you, Gordon
send me a pic of your first dovetails
I love this idea. I have the 36” pcs.
But I just can’t do it. I know I can replace it. But I just can’t bring myself to cut into the table. Even though it sits unused 90% of the time.
I always enjoy your videos, Rob. Maybe you could comment at some point on the selection of a router to mount in a table. Personally, I'm very happy with my Triton, which has a number of features intentionally built in with table mounting in mind. Admittedly, not everyone has the luxury of selecting a router to mount in their table. Many will have their router already and then decide to put it (sometimes) into a table.
Triton is an awesome router. I have had my routers for many years and love them and have not really kept up with the current batch. Maybe I will buy some and do an evaluation
You do nice work😊
This is my next project. Thanks! I think I'm going to use a commercial router plate though. The MDF seems a little sketchy.
That works too
Rob - Thanks for all the hard work you guys put in helping us be better.
As an aside, when I have to glue up questionable surfaces (like melamine) my go to is 3M 5200. Haven't found a surface yet that it won't work on.
Great tip thanks
I just rough up the surface first. Sandpaper or even scotchbrite pad will do... get the gloss off, but scratches actually help the adhesion. When building a T joint with double-faced melamine panels, I run bits of tape down so I can sand the melamine close to (but hidden) where the edge of the intersecting board will fit.
I always learn something, even when I don't always agree with your chosen methodology. I've never seen your Bosch pivoting head drill... PS11BN.... Maybe you can do a show on just specialty drills??? Another great video. Thanks!
we just made a video on drills where I show that will be out in a week or two
Fantastic job Rob! What brand of rabbiting bits do you like to use? I didn't see any bits listed on your store. Poor quality bearings seems to be the biggest complaint with rabbiting sets. Looking for a good option of quality vs cost. Thanks!
Great video as usual Rob, always learning new ideas from you so much appreciated. Just a suggestion but I rout some quite small pieces so the router is mounted similar to yours but in 6mm steel plate. I then have seperate adjustable inserts but with different size holes for small or larger router bits. Makes working on smaller parts safer.
thanks
Thank you, thank you, thank you for doing this! It's been on my mental to-do list for this very extension table, and I've been thinking about how best to make it happen. I appreciate it so much!
Rob, I am wondering why you mounted your unit in line across the table. This tends to ensure you work at the end of the table instead of at the front. Secondly it would enable you to rout much longer pieces along the table with the only extra support needed at one end instead of at the back and the front. I understand that the saw fence can be utilised front to back, but you can mount a fence along the table with the necessary t-slots and perhaps a longe fence.
Dear Rob, I would like to thank you for this build, it really put my doubt to make a router table almost gone and want to immediately go for it.
Just one question that bugs me; if you're using 1/2 inch MDF as the base plate, wouldn't it kind of too thick that it makes the router bit can't come up high enough? By the way, I use my router mainly for template routing so that's what got me worrying for not having the bit come up high enough
I was thinking the same thing. Plus, if you already have a table, why not simply drill the table and not have a plate at all? Sorry if there is a simple reason why not.
Quicker, neater and easier to make up a template from the get go. ( just doesn’t seem like it when you’re doing it 😂)
Then with clever use of bushings you can cut the hole and the insert 👍🏻
I tried...I just didnt think it through good enough and had to change in mid-stream
If you are spending $4000 on a saw stop table saw, it makes no sense to not purchase the $400 router wing that saves all the headache you have presented in this video.
I purchased the 1.75hp PCS, for $3000, and the router wing, plus the saw stop router fence, and router lift, for around $4000. What is missing is a way to micro adjust the router fence to sneak up on the perfect cut. Hopefully you can come up with a video on that in the future, thanjs.
When you add a router table to the right side wing, you limit outfeed for larger stock.
I like using it on my left wing. That way my wood always goes in one direction whether it's on the router table, or table saw.
This also allows me the ability to use the table saw outfeed for my router outeed. So if I'm routing on linger boards, I can have them supported easier.
Plus, on my saw the left wing is much smaller. So it will have far more support and less sag over the years . And since I'm using a 3/8" mdf laminated on a ¾ BB plywood sheet, it makes a ⅜" router insert plate a perfect fit and rest directly upon the plywood. Now I don't need levelers or extra elevation hardware to make my router plate sit flush.
Nice job. Sometime show how your setup accommodates adjusting the height of the router bit, especially the micro-adjust. My major problem with under-mount routers, even commercial tables, is that the height adjustment is a real pain in the you-know-what.
I usually cut the hole for the router with a router. I just set up a template and use a flush cutting bit to establish the hole by lowering the bit into the material about 1/4" at a time. This yields no tear out problems in either laminate or plywood. If tear out in plywood is a concern, just use a marking knife to carefully score the surface using the template as a guide. This does not work with hard surface laminates, however.
BTW. You don't need to worry about whether Gorilla Glue will stick to melamine or MDF. The glue will bond securely to anything but polypropylene or polyethylene plastics.
Yeah that was my plan to until I screwed up the template that I made and I had to go with my alternate method of a kind of pieced together template
You could have avoided the jigsaw chipout by pre-scoring the surface along the cut line. Also - cutting the opening for a "standard" sized mounting plate would have given you the option to add a router lift in the future.
Will the dust collection tube to the right of the router get in the way?
I would suggest that it won't. I have a similar router setup on my table saw, with obstructions on the immediate right. They have never been a problem.
no..it rotates
Why not make it out of MDF the same thickness as the table to and extend it past the ribs to use the ribs as support?
Yeah that’s a good idea where were you when I was designing this thing?
Using 1/2 inch MDF for sub-base reduces travel significantly, would not 1/8 Al Alloy be more suitable?
I dont know...but I dont have any of that sitting around my shop
Just a question: any reason you didn't make a corner template jig to round all 4 corners of the router mounting plate?? Using the tape you used to transfer the corner radius to make the jig template (with some of that spare MDF you have lots of) means you only need to shape accurately 1 'corner' then use the jig to template route all 4 corners with a flush trim and all 4 corners will be identical and might save you some time?
Because I thought my way is quicker and easier. Your way would work too.
That particular DeWalt router is best used handheld. It is a waste to mount it under a table. It is also only medium in power. A router used under a table should best be 15 amp.
Or just mount the base of a fixed-base router, and get an extra base for hand-held use, or just use the motor for other DYI setup.
Nice video Rob and nice little insert. Do you have plans to make a router lift, accessible from the table top for the 621?
Did you consider using a jigsaw blade that cuts on the downstroke?
Nope, I just grabbed my trusty jigsaw and the blades I had on hand. I bet your idea would have worked.
I cut a lot of faced boards, melamine, paper, vinyl, painted, whatever. The easiest solution is to run a sharp utility knife right on the cut line, to score or sever the surface finish - pencil into the scratch if you are blind.
When you cut the material, the surface chips back to the knife's score line.... works 100% perfect every time, better than fussing with jigs and routers.
Hi Rob,
For the Jigsaw blades are available with the teeth pointing downwards......
Yes I know but I didn’t have any and I wasn’t going to hold up the project to go get some
bought my baseplate predrilled with my 3 1/4 hp motor
Maybe next time use long Allen set screws coming from bottom, or recessed into the top? Some other way so’s you can level it without lifting the whole thing out 🤔
Yes that would work, but you only have to level it once and I didn't have allen screws. I super idea though
First let me say I have learned much from your videos, including this one. But, for the cost of the melamine from SawStop, you would have most of the cost of a shaper, the big brother of routing tables, at lower costs. With my shaper I can use the smallest router bits all the way up to 2.5 cutters for moulding. Plus, it has a reversible motor on a cast iron table. So the rhetorical question is why a built in router table when a shaper could slide into place and still give access for big cuts on the table saw? I would say good video, but not the optimum choice for adaptation.
I have never had luck with shapers
Shapers simply do not have enough RPM to be used as a router table but for only the largest bits.
Granted shapers may run on the slower side of routers, but whether soft or hard woods, it cuts as clean as my two routers. I'm just saying there is more bang for the buck and as with any good tool will do a good majority of the work expected. I just think folks should be aware of the option, which most people aren't that there is a shaper and it should be considered. If you prefer a router table I hope you have a good one. As for me I usually run the smaller bits that are 1/4 inch shafts. You make a good point.
Great project Rob. Is it possible to include measurements in mm every now and then for the rest of the world😂👍
Lither dors add metric sometimes but all my tapes are imperial so i cannot convert on the spot
@@RobCosmanWoodworking No Problem Rob, I guess rest of the world has to change to imperial🤣😂
What Brand is the Drill your Using? it looks like Head is adjustable
Hi Rob,
When are you going to try and reclaim the dovetails record, recently beaten by Matt Eastlea??
I seen the dust when you were using the rasp.. and I tried blowing my phone screen lol
You were in the 1st special forces group?
FYI- Richelieu sells a melamine glue that works wonders on melamine as long as one face is porous and the other can be non porous (melamine face).
I’ve never heard of that I’ll check it out thanks for the tip
I thought I had asked this but it doesn't seem to be here. I have a quantity of 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. Would that be a good substitute for MDF? I am rebuilding an early 60s Rockwell-Beaver saw...all cast iron!
Rob mentioned ply specifically in the video. He prefers MDF because it is more stable.
Unrelated question... what is that dust shroud you have on the miter (chop) saw station?
its a Rousseau. Here is a link www.amazon.com/Rousseau-5000-Solution-Miter-Silver/dp/B00MFGRT06/ref=asc_df_B00MFGRT06/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309802506143&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=97139502359201536&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031340&hvtargid=pla-435711898201&psc=1
hold the jigsaw upside down and the cut will be smooth
Is this what Ray Bourque does in the offseason? Seroiusly, have you ever seen Rob and Ray together? No, you haven't. Eerie...
Gorilla polyurethane glue is my least favorite of all glues. It cures to such a hard brittleness that it fails far too consistently for me to even consider. You may want to try Roo Clear melamine glue. It works. I've glued materials it was never rated for, such as vinyl to wood, metal to metal, as a wood glue, acrylic to acrylic. It's far more versatile and effective than polyurethane glues. The company also makes great wood glues, white and yellow. No, I don't work for them, just like their products. My cabinet maker introduced me to the Roo Clear, the rest I discovered from their website.
Oh yes I’m not a big fan of gorilla glue either I had never heard of Mela mine glue wish I had known about it previously I would’ve gotten some thanks for the tip
why do you NOT wear a respirator when using a ROUTER?
Because MY priorities are different than yours. If I’m using my router for multiple repetitious work I’ll take the time to grab my respirator. If not, it’s just a nuisance that I avoid. My lungs, my choice.
couldn’t you just have mounted the router directly to the table w the 4 bolt holes? obviously makes bit changes harder but even at the end mentioned could change the bits right where it is
Allow me to suggest an easier way to cut using a jigsaw. Get DOWN cutting blades for jigsaw. It will not damage the top finish as it cuts on the down stroke.
Roo Glue for melamine
How do you make angled mortise and tenon
Very carefully....thats a different video
D link router best
I dont like them
Nice first try, Rob, but there’s NO WAY you’ll be using this setup 5 years from now. The table will sag, fine router adjustments will be a hassle, no dust collection under table or at fence, no place for featherboards. You won’t be happy trying to do reliable, repeatable router cuts using this setup. Just spend the money once on a good router table and quit fretting over this!
Been using it on my other saw for 6 years.
Hahahahaha
Level screws adjustment was not shown unfortunately:(
And what use would seeing that be to anybody? You gotta wind the screws until the insert is level with the face of the table. Seeing how somebody else does it won't assist you in the slightest when it comes to levelling your own.
@@johncoops6897 It was not shown how the two screws interact to level the insert plate! First screws were inserted into the opening in the saw table and then another set of screws were screwed in from the top of the insert, but how are the upper and lower screws interacting? Are the adjustments
made from the top screws or the bottom screws?? We need more explanation on how the system works!
@@shemondoublejack948 - they are screws FFS. Surely you don't need somebody to explain how a screw works? Go to a hardware store, buy one and you might understand.
The screws underneath are holding the wooden cleats. The levelling of the insert is done from the top. There are 6 adjustment screws, not two.
This is very basic stuff indeed. I can only imagine that you asked the question before watching the video, right? It is impossible to understand why you need to ask the question... it is all shown in the video very clearly.
Why not just mount it to the table and drill a hole?
Because I want to be able to pull out the router change and change router bits and make adjustments without having to unbolt the router to get it out of the table
It all looks very complicated if you ask me 😢
Why dont you just round the corners it actually looks better.
I enjoy the content of your videos, but I really don't need to see every step in real time. It makes the videos way too long, and I end up having to skip forward frequently.
Sorry, for every comment like yours I get 10 thanking me for not skipping processes. Guess who wins? Sorry.