To clarify, the steps to leveling your rig are: 1) Level side to side 2) Chock your trailer tires 3) Unhitch from tow vehicle 4) Level front to back 5) Put down and set your stabilizer jacks. (It’s at this point I open my slide) Thanks! Stan
The wife and I just purchased your exact trailer and it is due in a couple of weeks I'm finding all of your tips really helpful we also enjoy the Arizona videos that you made a while back since we're here in Arizona keep up the good work
Sammy, That is exciting news! You are going to absolutely love it! Have you been able to watch the TPMS video we posted? Maybe you can order it now so it's ready for you when you pick up your trailer. We are new to Arizona and look forward to doing more exploring soon. Thanks so much for your encouraging words! Blessings, Stan and Rhonda Here is the link to the TPMS Video : th-cam.com/video/EpfuRATGw2A/w-d-xo.html
Hello Leroy, thank you for joining us! We appreciate your comment. We have had the same wood blocks for three years. They work real well. Stan and Rhonda
That will work, however I measured the list the slides create and factor that into my original leveling; they once I put out my slides, I'm level. Works over 90% of the time and saves me time. Also the Chalks between the tires help a little, but not enough to justify the cost or time to install and remove. Scissor jacks or side bracing work way better, in my opinion and the tests I've done and seen. Also, if you break your scissor jacks you didn't size correctly. A lot of vehicles come with scissor jacks. They are plenty strong. Mine lift 7,500# each. You'll damage the frame on your RV before you break the jack.
Thank you for the information. After traveling 33,000 miles. We have done lots of things in the past three years. We still use the same system and it works great for us. Learning your trailer is the most important. Blessings, Stan and Rhonda
Oh as a note I’ve had a stack of 2x8’s that I cut into 18” sections. I’ve been using those same blocks for over 20 years. Well l, my trailer is a 1995 that we brought new. But I do like your idea of the pressure treated 2x6 but again, my regular builder grade lumber has lasted me decades so a regular 2 x 6 should be fine to. Thanks for the tips!
Just came across this video, i see it’s a year old but still very relevant. . I got 2 Green treat 6” x 6” x 6’. Cut each one into 4-18” long blocks then I picked up galvanized gate handles screwed them on to each one and 8 is the perfect number to have if these. Typically I use 2 on the front for the jack foot to rest on to reduce how far I need to extend it out. Keeps my jack more stable. Then almost always the front or rear is lower then the other. Two on each corner at front or rear depending on what is highest off the ground and one on each other stabilizer jack. I also carry 4-4” x 4” x 10” long blocks for additional blocking for my front stabilizer jack if need be. Sometimes the 6” block is to much or not quite enough so the combo of the two is nice to have on hand. This works awesome.
Shane, thank you for your comment. Your blocks are better than mine. Nevertheless, I am glad you can relate. We love our homemade blocks they work great!! We hope you join us on our adventures. Thank you for stopping by, Stan and Rhonda
FYI if you use your drill and take the setting off of drill and put it on torc 7 or 8 it won't lock up on you and break your arm. I leave mine on setting 6 and when it's all the way up or down it just free spins no locking up
Enjoyed the video as all the others. We bought a couple of sets of the lego blocks when we got our trailer. Going to change to wood now, like it better. Keep up the videos, very enjoyable and helpful. We have the Anderson level blocks also but have only taken the trailer out for one week at a KOA and site was at perfect level. PS, we have installed the shower soap dispenser and paper towel rack. Work great!!
Richard, Great news on the shower soap dispenser and the paper towel holder! They are a win on space saving in our book too! Thanks for the feedback. Rhonda and Stan
Update: I’m in Ohio and went to the Home Depot. They do not sell the red pressure treated 4X6 I bought in Lake Havasu. The one I found in Ohio is much more expensive. The green 4X6 sell for about $30. FYI Stan
I use 2x6 treated screwed together making them 4x6. The key is to ask if they have junk wood and buy that they are typically split at one end or what is twisting but you should be able to get good pieces at a very good price. Now at Home Depot in California they will not cut treated wood. I had to cut mine at my house.
Or if you level a touch high on the slide side so it levels out when the slide opens. That way your wife doesn't have to wait is you to get all the stabalizers in place
I do the same thing,I use 4x6 blocks for my leveling jacks and I also use a 2x10 to level up the camper cause I can get all the 2x10 blocks from my work and there is no cost to me for the 2x10 blocks
Hello Thomas, did you see our new video? SnapPad has just brought their new line of SnapJacks for scissor jacks. Takes your scissor jacks to a new level.
@@thomasforrester370 the wood blocks worked great for us. 21,000 miles across the country and back. I still use my 2X6 religiously where ever I go along with my Anderson Leveling Blocks if I need them. Thank you for joining us. Safe travels, Stan and Rhonda
Jeff, thank you. Your 100% correct but there are so many people who have never used one of these machines. Slow is pro!!!! I have to admit sometimes when I’m in a hurry I forget to turn the torque down and hurt myself. Happens all the time. Thanks for your great comment. Stan and Rhonda
The issue is they call those jacks stabilizing and leveling jacks and are used on many cars for changing to spare tire. If they used heavy duty rated ones it would be fine but they are like car ones so can’t handle it.
I would have to agree. They are definitely not to used as leveling jacks. You always have the option of putting in hydraulics but I’m too cheap. Thank for watching. Stan and Rhonda
Some good ideas here and thought I would add some. First of all, the run of the mill 2x4 that used to be $3.50 or so is now $7.50! So a pressure treated 4x6 is going to be pricey. In the Boston area, I have only seen cedar and pressure treated. Both are not cheap! With respect to handles, put them in all the blocks so which one you grab does not matter. For handles, you can use thick leather or also check out your local garage and get a used, wide serpentine belt. Cut it to length and use a long wood screw and a washer. Don’t scrimp on the hardware if your blocks are pressure treated as PT will eat normal screws. But coated or stainless. You are not buying many and the trip to the store will be expensive anyway. Do the job once! You mentioned not unhitching until after the xchocks were on. But that seemed to be after you put the stabilizers on! You cannot move the tongue jack after the stabilizers are down so you cannot lift the tongue off the hitch! Level side to side, normal wheel chock install, unhitch, level front to back, stabilizers, and xchock is what I do.
Paul, thank you for your comment. Great idea!! I’m sorry things are so expensive where you live. Where I live in Arizona, the wood was cheap and cutting was free. Same as the lumberyard in California when ever I needed something cut it was free. Some good business practices so I would always return. The straps were free that I found in my garage and worked well. An old leather belt would work better. I used stainless steal screws and stainless steal washers. Should last longer then I will own the trailer. The Anderson levelers I use are chocks. I level side to side with my Anderson levelers/chocks then I unhitch and level front to back. Once level, I x-chock both sides for extra safety it also helps in stabilization. I put the stabilizer down on the slide side first. Slide goes out I then stabilize the door side. Then I open the rear door and put the solid steps down. That is how I do it.😀👍 Thanks again for your great ideas and comments. Stan and Rhonda
Can you stabilize side to side by using the jacks on the travel trailer? The jacks are sitting on concrete blocks. We're in a permanent spot... Or do you have to put something under the tires to level? Now that we've been in it and have the slides out it's unlevel again. We're new RV owners. We bought this to put out on our family farm so we can come and do family weekends so we're still in the learning phase here. I'm afraid to keep this RV unlevel for too long I heard that it could bend the frame...
@@user-fv3ef4tf3oNo! But let’s be picky about words. Your stabilizers do just that. You put them down to prevent rocking of the trailer as it is. They only stabilize! They DO NOT level or jack up your trailer. You first level left to right with boards or blocks under the wheels. You chock the wheels, disconnect, and level front to back using the tongue jack. Then you snug up the stabilizers. A cordless drill is fine. Do not use an impact driver. 7:05 7:20
You had mentioned to put the stabilizers out before putting out the slide... When we bought our RV and we are new RV owners and it is on a permanent spot they told us do not put those stabilizers under the slide until the slide was completely extended or it could bend the frame of the slide. We still need to level this travel trailer from side to side, the day it was brought it may or may not have been properly leveled at that time and then we put out the slides and now it leans to the right. My dad seems to think that we can get that side up a little with the jacks that are on the trailer. Those jacks are sitting on concrete blocks. Can we level by raising those jacks on that one side? And do we need to bring in the slides to do that? Thank you😊
Hi Lindsay, First of all congratulations on your new purchase! How exciting! Second, this important to know that the stabilizing jacks are just that, stabilizers. They should never be used to level your rig. So with that said, you may need to use a board or levelers to re-level the rig. We always leveled before putting out the slide with no problems, but would favor the opposite side of the slide just a little knowing that the weight of the slide would make it level out. We suggest you bring in the slide, level the rig as suggested above, favoring the opposite side, and then put the slide out. You may just need to jack up that side to slip the board under if your rig is stationary. Hope this is helpful. Let us know how it goes. ~ Stan and Rhonda
Hi there. I to recently purchased a 2500rl. Haven't even had it out yet. Found your tpm video very helpful,thxs. However i was wondering if on your slide out when closed is it flush to the trailer wall or does it stick out as to where the fender skirting for outside wheel molding have a noticeable gap.? The slide appears to seal against the wall but that offset of the fender trim is disconcerting. Thxs for any info you can provide.. i enjoy your channel..
Hi Rick, I’m glad I could help. Reference the slide it is exactly the way mine is. I thought the same thing. I went to the RV show to check it out and they are all same. I felt much better. Thank you for watching. Anything else you need don’t hesitate to ask. We love our GD Imagine 2500RL. Safe travels, Stan and Rhonda
Vernon, thank you for your comment!! Yes I keep the jack extended I do not retract it. Remember your scissor jacks are only to be used to stabilize your rig. Thank for watching!! I hope you hang out with us more often. Till the next time, Stan and Rhonda
Your pocedure would only work if you have scissors jack stabilizers. The acme screw motorized stabilizers are not rigid unless both feet are down and only stabilize front to back. We have a super slide and have to level with blocks so slide side is high, then let the slide out and it will settle level. I tapped a bolt into a 4' level and use that as the standard.....after calibrating with trial and error.
Do you have levels above your jacks on the edge of the trailer? I'm trying to find out the best way, since one I receive my 2500RL it's my first trailer. So, expect for watching all kinds of video's I'm really new at this. Thanks, I'm enjoying your video's.
James, I level my trailer using a 4 foot level like in the video. Level side to side, chock your tires, then disconnect from tow vehicle. Level front to back using your electric jack on the front. Next step, put down your stabilization jacks. Then put your slide out and bring down your steps. Stan and Rhonda
Hi Denise, I have the cordless 18 Volt Milwaukee drill. You buy it as a set comes with the battery and charger. I really like mine. The correct bit is standard and you can buy it at Walmart or Amazon. I will put a link for you. Thanks for the question. Stan and Rhonda www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMFXHH5?pf_rd_r=C9AX3RS5FE2PB2FJAX2S&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=cd67b9af-8895-4302-b151-0f7d4b24ae43&pd_rd_w=S6PZh&pd_rd_wg=LHlBH&ref_=pd_gw_unk www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMFXHH5?pf_rd_r=C9AX3RS5FE2PB2FJAX2S&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=cd67b9af-8895-4302-b151-0f7d4b24ae43&pd_rd_w=S6PZh&pd_rd_wg=LHlBH&ref_=pd_gw_unk
The Milwaukee is a fine tool but not really something you want to leave in your camper because it is expensive and has many uses around the house. Look for a Ryobi 18 volt kit or check out sets at Harbor Freight.
@@paulsylvester1394 I’m not sure I would go cheap on a tool I rely upon. I like tools that work when you need them the most. Just my thought. Thanks, Stan
Stan, where did you get the straps for the wood blocks? Are you going to treat the wood so it would last longer? I have a 2500RL on order and I would like to know all about your trailer.
James, thanks for your question. The wood I got was pressure treated. If you get a regular 4X6 I would treat the wood to last longer. I found the nylon straps in my garage and used stainless steel screws. Congratulations on your 2500RL you will love it. Watch our trailer video it shows a lot. Anytime you need know something about the trailer we are here for you. Stan and Rhonda
Gordon, thank you for your question. My tow vehicle is a 2016 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton Crewcab 4X4. 5.3L V8. Please take a look at my Are saggin video spec and mods. It will show you everything I did to my truck. Thanks for watching and thanks for stopping by. Stan and Rhonda
I listened to you and bought the same wood you did except today they charge 30 bucks for that same piece of wood and Home depot or lowes won't cut anything thicker then a 2x4..
No way!!!! Where do you live? I would not have paid $30.00 I can guarantee you that. It was free cutting where we live. Sorry for your bad experience in your town. Thank for bringing it to our attention. Stan and Rhonda
Yes sir, it’s about three inches away. If you check out our winter adventure video or our beach video it will show you how we back it up. Slow is pro!! Thank you for your comment. Stan and Rhonda
To clarify, the steps to leveling your rig are:
1) Level side to side
2) Chock your trailer tires
3) Unhitch from tow vehicle
4) Level front to back
5) Put down and set your stabilizer jacks. (It’s at this point I open my slide)
Thanks!
Stan
Well done, sir. Thank you so much. Be safe.
Hi Sam, glad we can help!! Thank you for joining us! Stan and Rhonda🙏🏼❤️
The wife and I just purchased your exact trailer and it is due in a couple of weeks I'm finding all of your tips really helpful we also enjoy the Arizona videos that you made a while back since we're here in Arizona keep up the good work
Sammy, That is exciting news! You are going to absolutely love it! Have you been able to watch the TPMS video we posted? Maybe you can order it now so it's ready for you when you pick up your trailer. We are new to Arizona and look forward to doing more exploring soon. Thanks so much for your encouraging words! Blessings, Stan and Rhonda
Here is the link to the TPMS Video : th-cam.com/video/EpfuRATGw2A/w-d-xo.html
Thank you sir ,and Hello from Utah, I thought the same on wooden blocks ,the handles were a great idea .
Hello Leroy, thank you for joining us! We appreciate your comment. We have had the same wood blocks for three years. They work real well. Stan and Rhonda
That will work, however I measured the list the slides create and factor that into my original leveling; they once I put out my slides, I'm level. Works over 90% of the time and saves me time. Also the Chalks between the tires help a little, but not enough to justify the cost or time to install and remove. Scissor jacks or side bracing work way better, in my opinion and the tests I've done and seen. Also, if you break your scissor jacks you didn't size correctly. A lot of vehicles come with scissor jacks. They are plenty strong. Mine lift 7,500# each. You'll damage the frame on your RV before you break the jack.
Thank you for the information. After traveling 33,000 miles. We have done lots of things in the past three years. We still use the same system and it works great for us. Learning your trailer is the most important. Blessings, Stan and Rhonda
Oh as a note I’ve had a stack of 2x8’s that I cut into 18” sections. I’ve been using those same blocks for over 20 years. Well l, my trailer is a 1995 that we brought new. But I do like your idea of the pressure treated 2x6 but again, my regular builder grade lumber has lasted me decades so a regular 2 x 6 should be fine to.
Thanks for the tips!
Hello David, thank you for joining us! Stan
Just came across this video, i see it’s a year old but still very relevant. . I got 2 Green treat 6” x 6” x 6’. Cut each one into 4-18” long blocks then I picked up galvanized gate handles screwed them on to each one and 8 is the perfect number to have if these. Typically I use 2 on the front for the jack foot to rest on to reduce how far I need to extend it out. Keeps my jack more stable. Then almost always the front or rear is lower then the other. Two on each corner at front or rear depending on what is highest off the ground and one on each other stabilizer jack. I also carry 4-4” x 4” x 10” long blocks for additional blocking for my front stabilizer jack if need be. Sometimes the 6” block is to much or not quite enough so the combo of the two is nice to have on hand. This works awesome.
Shane, thank you for your comment. Your blocks are better than mine. Nevertheless, I am glad you can relate. We love our homemade blocks they work great!! We hope you join us on our adventures. Thank you for stopping by, Stan and Rhonda
Good idea regarding the wood. I look at the two home repair stores in the "culled lumber" area. 70% off. Since the wood does not have to be perfect.
Great idea!! Thank you for watching. Stan and Rhonda
I LIKE SAVING MONEY! Thanks for the video, great advice
FYI if you use your drill and take the setting off of drill and put it on torc 7 or 8 it won't lock up on you and break your arm. I leave mine on setting 6 and when it's all the way up or down it just free spins no locking up
Awesome advice!! I’m glad you brought that up. Thanks, Stan and Rhonda
Enjoyed the video as all the others. We bought a couple of sets of the lego blocks when we got our trailer. Going to change to wood now, like it better. Keep up the videos, very enjoyable and helpful. We have the Anderson level blocks also but have only taken the trailer out for one week at a KOA and site was at perfect level.
PS, we have installed the shower soap dispenser and paper towel rack. Work great!!
Richard, Great news on the shower soap dispenser and the paper towel holder! They are a win on space saving in our book too! Thanks for the feedback. Rhonda and Stan
Very well done.
Thank you!! appreciate you joining us. Stan and Rhonda
Good tips!
Update: I’m in Ohio and went to the Home Depot. They do not sell the red pressure treated 4X6 I bought in Lake Havasu. The one I found in Ohio is much more expensive. The green 4X6 sell for about $30. FYI Stan
I use 2x6 treated screwed together making them 4x6. The key is to ask if they have junk wood and buy that they are typically split at one end or what is twisting but you should be able to get good pieces at a very good price. Now at Home Depot in California they will not cut treated wood. I had to cut mine at my house.
@@gakrabbe that’s a great tip! Thank you for sharing! Stan
Or if you level a touch high on the slide side so it levels out when the slide opens. That way your wife doesn't have to wait is you to get all the stabalizers in place
Thank you Larry! Stan and Rhonda
Great video thank you both !!
Chantal, thank you for watching and your encouraging words. Stan and Rhonda
Good video.. great reminders. Thanks for sharing
Thank you guys!! Thanks for watching! Stan and Rhonda
I do the same thing,I use 4x6 blocks for my leveling jacks and I also use a 2x10 to level up the camper cause I can get all the 2x10 blocks from my work and there is no cost to me for the 2x10 blocks
Hello Thomas, did you see our new video? SnapPad has just brought their new line of SnapJacks for scissor jacks. Takes your scissor jacks to a new level.
th-cam.com/video/_nCIONYkSo0/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
@Over The Hill Adventures just watched it don't know if I can afford them right now
@@thomasforrester370 the wood blocks worked great for us. 21,000 miles across the country and back. I still use my 2X6 religiously where ever I go along with my Anderson Leveling Blocks if I need them. Thank you for joining us. Safe travels, Stan and Rhonda
Just turn the power/torque knob down to the point that it no longer drills when the jack hits the top.
Jeff, thank you. Your 100% correct but there are so many people who have never used one of these machines. Slow is pro!!!! I have to admit sometimes when I’m in a hurry I forget to turn the torque down and hurt myself. Happens all the time. Thanks for your great comment. Stan and Rhonda
The issue is they call those jacks stabilizing and leveling jacks and are used on many cars for changing to spare tire. If they used heavy duty rated ones it would be fine but they are like car ones so can’t handle it.
I would have to agree. They are definitely not to used as leveling jacks. You always have the option of putting in hydraulics but I’m too cheap. Thank for watching. Stan and Rhonda
Some good ideas here and thought I would add some. First of all, the run of the mill 2x4 that used to be $3.50 or so is now $7.50! So a pressure treated 4x6 is going to be pricey. In the Boston area, I have only seen cedar and pressure treated. Both are not cheap!
With respect to handles, put them in all the blocks so which one you grab does not matter. For handles, you can use thick leather or also check out your local garage and get a used, wide serpentine belt. Cut it to length and use a long wood screw and a washer. Don’t scrimp on the hardware if your blocks are pressure treated as PT will eat normal screws. But coated or stainless. You are not buying many and the trip to the store will be expensive anyway. Do the job once!
You mentioned not unhitching until after the xchocks were on. But that seemed to be after you put the stabilizers on! You cannot move the tongue jack after the stabilizers are down so you cannot lift the tongue off the hitch! Level side to side, normal wheel chock install, unhitch, level front to back, stabilizers, and xchock is what I do.
Paul, thank you for your comment. Great idea!! I’m sorry things are so expensive where you live. Where I live in Arizona, the wood was cheap and cutting was free. Same as the lumberyard in California when ever I needed something cut it was free. Some good business practices so I would always return.
The straps were free that I found in my garage and worked well. An old leather belt would work better. I used stainless steal screws and stainless steal washers. Should last longer then I will own the trailer.
The Anderson levelers I use are chocks. I level side to side with my Anderson levelers/chocks then I unhitch and level front to back. Once level, I x-chock both sides for extra safety it also helps in stabilization. I put the stabilizer down on the slide side first. Slide goes out I then stabilize the door side. Then I open the rear door and put the solid steps down. That is how I do it.😀👍 Thanks again for your great ideas and comments. Stan and Rhonda
Can you stabilize side to side by using the jacks on the travel trailer? The jacks are sitting on concrete blocks. We're in a permanent spot... Or do you have to put something under the tires to level? Now that we've been in it and have the slides out it's unlevel again. We're new RV owners. We bought this to put out on our family farm so we can come and do family weekends so we're still in the learning phase here. I'm afraid to keep this RV unlevel for too long I heard that it could bend the frame...
@@user-fv3ef4tf3oNo! But let’s be picky about words. Your stabilizers do just that. You put them down to prevent rocking of the trailer as it is. They only stabilize! They DO NOT level or jack up your trailer.
You first level left to right with boards or blocks under the wheels. You chock the wheels, disconnect, and level front to back using the tongue jack. Then you snug up the stabilizers. A cordless drill is fine. Do not use an impact driver. 7:05 7:20
You had mentioned to put the stabilizers out before putting out the slide... When we bought our RV and we are new RV owners and it is on a permanent spot they told us do not put those stabilizers under the slide until the slide was completely extended or it could bend the frame of the slide. We still need to level this travel trailer from side to side, the day it was brought it may or may not have been properly leveled at that time and then we put out the slides and now it leans to the right. My dad seems to think that we can get that side up a little with the jacks that are on the trailer. Those jacks are sitting on concrete blocks. Can we level by raising those jacks on that one side? And do we need to bring in the slides to do that? Thank you😊
Hi Lindsay, First of all congratulations on your new purchase! How exciting! Second, this important to know that the stabilizing jacks are just that, stabilizers. They should never be used to level your rig. So with that said, you may need to use a board or levelers to re-level the rig. We always leveled before putting out the slide with no problems, but would favor the opposite side of the slide just a little knowing that the weight of the slide would make it level out. We suggest you bring in the slide, level the rig as suggested above, favoring the opposite side, and then put the slide out. You may just need to jack up that side to slip the board under if your rig is stationary. Hope this is helpful. Let us know how it goes. ~ Stan and Rhonda
Cinderblocks are cheaper and raise the stabilizers higher
Thank you but I’m not driving around with cinder blocks. Too big and too much weight. Thank you for your comment. Stan
Hi there. I to recently purchased a 2500rl. Haven't even had it out yet. Found your tpm video very helpful,thxs. However i was wondering if on your slide out when closed is it flush to the trailer wall or does it stick out as to where the fender skirting for outside wheel molding have a noticeable gap.? The slide appears to seal against the wall but that offset of the fender trim is disconcerting.
Thxs for any info you can provide.. i enjoy your channel..
Hi Rick, I’m glad I could help. Reference the slide it is exactly the way mine is. I thought the same thing. I went to the RV show to check it out and they are all same. I felt much better. Thank you for watching. Anything else you need don’t hesitate to ask. We love our GD Imagine 2500RL. Safe travels, Stan and Rhonda
@@OverTheHillAdventures Thank you
Great video, after you are all set up and level do you leave the electric tongue jack extended with weight on it or do you retract it?
Vernon, thank you for your comment!! Yes I keep the jack extended I do not retract it. Remember your scissor jacks are only to be used to stabilize your rig. Thank for watching!! I hope you hang out with us more often. Till the next time, Stan and Rhonda
Did you replace your stabilizing jacks on your rig?
Hello Nancy, we did not replace them. We added SnapJack from SnapPads. Really helped in stabilizing the rig. Stan and Rhonda
Your pocedure would only work if you have scissors jack stabilizers. The acme screw motorized stabilizers are not rigid unless both feet are down and only stabilize front to back.
We have a super slide and have to level with blocks so slide side is high, then let the slide out and it will settle level. I tapped a bolt into a 4' level and use that as the standard.....after calibrating with trial and error.
Awesome!! thanks for your input. Stan
Do you have levels above your jacks on the edge of the trailer? I'm trying to find out the best way, since one I receive my 2500RL it's my first trailer. So, expect for watching all kinds of video's I'm really new at this. Thanks, I'm enjoying your video's.
James, I level my trailer using a 4 foot level like in the video. Level side to side, chock your tires, then disconnect from tow vehicle. Level front to back using your electric jack on the front. Next step, put down your stabilization jacks. Then put your slide out and bring down your steps. Stan and Rhonda
Hi Stan. I’d like to buy my hubby a drill and the correct bit to put down and take up the four stabilizers. What do you recommend?
Hi Denise, I have the cordless 18 Volt Milwaukee drill. You buy it as a set comes with the battery and charger. I really like mine. The correct bit is standard and you can buy it at Walmart or Amazon. I will put a link for you. Thanks for the question. Stan and Rhonda
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMFXHH5?pf_rd_r=C9AX3RS5FE2PB2FJAX2S&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=cd67b9af-8895-4302-b151-0f7d4b24ae43&pd_rd_w=S6PZh&pd_rd_wg=LHlBH&ref_=pd_gw_unk
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMFXHH5?pf_rd_r=C9AX3RS5FE2PB2FJAX2S&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=cd67b9af-8895-4302-b151-0f7d4b24ae43&pd_rd_w=S6PZh&pd_rd_wg=LHlBH&ref_=pd_gw_unk
I added a link to make it easier for you. Thanks again for watching. Stan and Rhonda
The Milwaukee is a fine tool but not really something you want to leave in your camper because it is expensive and has many uses around the house. Look for a Ryobi 18 volt kit or check out sets at Harbor Freight.
@@paulsylvester1394 I’m not sure I would go cheap on a tool I rely upon. I like tools that work when you need them the most. Just my thought. Thanks, Stan
Stan, where did you get the straps for the wood blocks? Are you going to treat the wood so it would last longer? I have a 2500RL on order and I would like to know all about your trailer.
James, thanks for your question. The wood I got was pressure treated. If you get a regular 4X6 I would treat the wood to last longer. I found the nylon straps in my garage and used stainless steel screws. Congratulations on your 2500RL you will love it. Watch our trailer video it shows a lot. Anytime you need know something about the trailer we are here for you. Stan and Rhonda
What do you use for a tow vehicle?
How is it equipped?
Thanks
Gordon, thank you for your question. My tow vehicle is a 2016 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton Crewcab 4X4. 5.3L V8. Please take a look at my Are saggin video spec and mods. It will show you everything I did to my truck. Thanks for watching and thanks for stopping by. Stan and Rhonda
I listened to you and bought the same wood you did except today they charge 30 bucks for that same piece of wood and Home depot or lowes won't cut anything thicker then a 2x4..
No way!!!! Where do you live? I would not have paid $30.00 I can guarantee you that. It was free cutting where we live. Sorry for your bad experience in your town. Thank for bringing it to our attention. Stan and Rhonda
Correct, the price in Texas is now 27$ for that stick of wood. Still going out today to by one. Like this better than plastic.
I am going today and check the Home Depot in Columbus, Ohio. Look for the red ones. The ones that are $27 are the green ones.
That trailer looks really close on the wall
Yes sir, it’s about three inches away. If you check out our winter adventure video or our beach video it will show you how we back it up. Slow is pro!! Thank you for your comment. Stan and Rhonda
Don't be using a drill... Impact driver or impact wrench will save your wrists and chin...
Thanks Joel great comment!! Unfortunately there are way to many people doing it as Illustrated on the video. Thanks again!! Stan
It says not to use an impact though. Drill only as they don’t want you to overpower it.
Those are 2x6.
They actually measure 7 inches... lol