As far as a wipe down at the end, I use coconut oil! It is food safe, and in the field you can use it for cooking, preserving cast iron pans, it works for wound care, it is anti microbial, and great on chapped lips. I always have some in my kit, so it is always available for any task.
I recently had someone say my knives were draw queen's, because they are all in tip top condition. But last weekend had an opportunity to hunt with said Muppet. And after field dressing my deer I could see him struggle to dress a rabbit. Being the bigger man I asked if he needed assistance, when he asked to borrow my knife I sniggered and left............😂
Those blocks are also sold as "rust erasers" by the kitchen knife shops. For blade treatment, I use Ballistol, a gun oil available everywhere. Its excellent for preventing rust, and its food safe. Just a light spray, and wipe off.
Hi Rob, Thank you for another video full of great tips. We met at the recent Wilderness gathering. I am the guy from Canada there with my son. I enjoyed our conversation on knives and Mors. Keep up the great work
Hi Mark, it was a pleasure to meet you both, I was actually delighted that you were aware of myself and my knives/channel. I should be back to normal with my TH-cam channel very soon, I had a break to concentrate on knifemaking for the show. That offer to make you a knife with the thumb divot in the scales is always open to you. Thanks again. Rob
Hi Rob, just before your video came up I was cleaning three discoloured Morakniv Carbon knifes. Well the one picked up some surface rust. Nothing that 2000 grit sandpaper couldn't remove cleanly. Thanks for the great video. I must confess that I neglected to clean my strop lately. It was a good reminder.
Just wanted to check in with you to see if you are doing well. Looking forward to seeing your new presentation soon. Have a great weekend and good health sir.
Always a pleasure to watch your stuff. I know it's not the most inspiring comment, but hey, I heard some algo likes that. And I'm sure a few people would be happy to have you in their recommended feed.
A nice video about knife care after you got back home. But what if you're away for a month? You will have to do field maintenance or you return home with a rusty blade. Let's say a carbon blade is easier to sharpen (I don't believe it is) but one thing is for sure. Oxidation effects the thinnest part of the blade the most and that's your edge. So they dull much quicker even without use. That means sharpening more and more maintenance. A stainless steel knife I just clean and dry and in a month with daily use I give it a quick strop on my leather trouser belt once a week and I use toothpaste as compound.
Hi Rob ☺, hope you and your's are doing ok, good tips on maintaining carbon blades. And you have my sympathy on the lack of getting out, shocking weather lately, no need to watch a weather report, just stick your head out the door, lol. Thanks for the video mate, stay safe Atb , Stuart UK.
Still new to knives and sharpening but does the heavy handed pressure on the strop not round the apex? I guess I will have to do some experimenting one my own because I thought I heard heavy pressure would round that edge apex and make it worse, but you seem to have had great results.
@@RobEvansWoodsmanHi Rob, do you find that the slight convexing from stropping a zero ground scandi the way that you do adds a perceivable increase in edge durability? How would you say it compares to an actual micro bevel like on a Mora? Thanks!
The main bevel on a mora is quite shallow so it needs a microbevel if it's going to be used hard, I don't intentionally strop a slight convex into a zero scandi, I don't spend ages stropping. It definitely helps the edge strength on a zero.
I call those blocks Garryflex Blocks I use the pink (fine)one on my blades and the grey (coarse)one on my handles and pins. You didnt say how you maintained Your handles especially the wooden ones - stabilised and plain oiled ones. I've watched Ben Orford recondition a Maple Handled Wilkinson sword Ray Mears Knife and he's done an SWC oak handled one for me, but I and probably Many others would appreciate your opinion on this??
I rarely use wood handled knives, you probably know more than I do. I've always been careful with my knives , I've never really felt the need to rub down a wood handle and re-oil and wax it, like I said I rarely use a wood handle knife , I've been using micarta scales for my own knives for about 15 years.
@@RobEvansWoodsman I like wood handles for their aesthetics compared to micarta, I have a Malanika Pukko with a spalted maple handle which is a thing of absolute beauty. Also a Julius Pettersson Woodlore with a tar treated birch?? handle which is as striking a knife as Ive ever seen..Micarta is very functional but now and again I like a 'Special' knife to look the part too..
how thick is the leather on your strop? mine is quite thick so if I press too hard it actually deforms around the edge and blunts it. I only apply light pressure to avoid this. ordinary chrome polish works well on a strop too, I find
@@RobEvansWoodsman thanks. it looks like your strop is quite hard though. mine is quite a bit thicker closer to 5mm I mostly use it to maintain an edge, anything more than that I use Japanese water stones. 6000 grit is the finest which gives a pretty sharp edge!
Nice one brother. Always great to see you. How was the maiden concert? I see nicko has been recovering from a stroke just prior to the whole Tour.😁👊🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧💯💯💯🔪🔪🔪🤘
There is no excuse, it's not difficult to whipe the crap off a blade before putting it back in its sheath then giving it a bit of TLC when you get home.
Rob, it certainly appears you and I have so much in common every time I watch a video. Only difference is I use EEZOX for long term storage, but if I'm going out in higher humidity with high carbon Ill take Marine Tuf Glide. Stuff works great. Standard Tuf Glide is also great for folders that you can get apart and clean really well , THEN apply it. I just don't understand why people seem to ignore the idea that active red rust and corrosion weakens steel
IDK about that but after nearly 60 years I've seen slot come and go, like yourself. This thoughtless fascination in the knife industry with pattern welded pretty knife looking objects made of low quality materials for the sake of "art" gets me going. I love a beautiful hard working well conceived blade , but a piece of art that won't hold an edge, breaks splitting 2 inch kindling, full of cold shuts and delaminations, made out of refrigerator parts gets me ill.😂
I find that even top quality Damasteel from Sweden still isn't as good as plain RWL34 which is half it's makeup. Pretty=bullshit in my opinion, people haven't spent the last 1000+ years perfecting the chemistry in steels for some arty farty clown with a forge to come along and make a Bowie out of a bed frame and bag of bolts and expect it to perform like CPM3V. My engineer friend Russ was talking about powder steels 25 years ago saying that they would be amazing for knives then a few years later CPM steels came into the public domain, I'm going on a bit now very sorry, you got me going 🤣
That stuff will corrode full of holes if you think about it hard enough, let alone use it. Why go thru all that for a pretty pattern if every time you use it, it turns jet black, then you have to polish it, clean it and redip it in ferric chloride to get it back😂 I love the old authentic Japanese process, but Christ have mercy the amount of work required to KEEP that tool up is pure pain. We can, and DO produce better steels now. If CPM3V or MagnaCut won't get it, I give up😂
As far as a wipe down at the end, I use coconut oil! It is food safe, and in the field you can use it for cooking, preserving cast iron pans, it works for wound care, it is anti microbial, and great on chapped lips. I always have some in my kit, so it is always available for any task.
Excellent information, thanks Kent.
I use coconut oil also. For knives, leather and cooking but also on the skin indeed.
Loads of pressure!
"Light on the stones, strop hard!" - Longstrider
Probably the chap able to make the sharpest edges I've ever seen!
Whatever happened to him?
I recently had someone say my knives were draw queen's, because they are all in tip top condition. But last weekend had an opportunity to hunt with said Muppet. And after field dressing my deer I could see him struggle to dress a rabbit. Being the bigger man I asked if he needed assistance, when he asked to borrow my knife I sniggered and left............😂
He's obviously not a knife guy if he asked to borrow your Drawer queen knife!
I always enjoy watching our videos. This one does not disappoint. Well done.
Those blocks are also sold as "rust erasers" by the kitchen knife shops. For blade treatment, I use Ballistol, a gun oil available everywhere. Its excellent for preventing rust, and its food safe. Just a light spray, and wipe off.
Thanks I'll look for that oil right now
Ballistol for the win!
I use Ballistol on my guns as well. I use it because it is non toxic and food safe. It is not the best rust preventer however.
Basically learn something new (which means I buy something new) every time I watch your videos... Thanks Rob.
Not an expensive one this time.
Right!@@RobEvansWoodsman
Hi Rob, Thank you for another video full of great tips. We met at the recent Wilderness gathering. I am the guy from Canada there with my son. I enjoyed our conversation on knives and Mors. Keep up the great work
Hi Mark, it was a pleasure to meet you both, I was actually delighted that you were aware of myself and my knives/channel.
I should be back to normal with my TH-cam channel very soon, I had a break to concentrate on knifemaking for the show.
That offer to make you a knife with the thumb divot in the scales is always open to you.
Thanks again.
Rob
I always enjoy seeing peoples knife care techniques. Thanks take care.
Nice one Rob! Great tip for maintaining carbon blades!
Thanks for the great tips! 😀👍
Hi Rob, just before your video came up I was cleaning three discoloured Morakniv Carbon knifes. Well the one picked up some surface rust. Nothing that 2000 grit sandpaper couldn't remove cleanly. Thanks for the great video. I must confess that I neglected to clean my strop lately. It was a good reminder.
Never heard of a Garryflex Block, they look pretty useful, I'll look into that.
Great filum and great info as always. Always look forward to em👍🏻
Cheers Dave
We call this block you used first on the sides "Metal Eraser" used by locksmith and such. Good advice, thanks for sharing.
Nice to see tools being taken care of. Always taken care of mine and they last so much longer.
Thanks and Happy New Year!
Thankx Rob
Always clean your strop and apply a new coat of compound to it so you get a good polish
I very much enjoy your videos showing your techniques for carbon blades, so helpful
Thank you
Just wanted to check in with you to see if you are doing well. Looking forward to seeing your new presentation soon. Have a great weekend and good health sir.
I'm fine thanks Charles, there will be a video up very soon.
Good to see yer back Rob 😁👍🏻
Cheers Dave, hopefully get back to normal now as all my stock and orders for the Gathering have been finished.
@@RobEvansWoodsman glad to see you've managed to finally get to doing your knives full time, wish you every success mate.👍🏻
Thanks mate
Thanks for making the video
Always a pleasure to watch your stuff.
I know it's not the most inspiring comment, but hey, I heard some algo likes that. And I'm sure a few people would be happy to have you in their recommended feed.
Thank you 🙏
Nice video rob.. always a good idea to look after your kit.. I've started using ballistoil.. brilliant stuff 👍glad to see the new job is doing well 👏👏
I've been looking into that stuff.
Spot on mate
A nice video about knife care after you got back home. But what if you're away for a month? You will have to do field maintenance or you return home with a rusty blade. Let's say a carbon blade is easier to sharpen (I don't believe it is) but one thing is for sure. Oxidation effects the thinnest part of the blade the most and that's your edge. So they dull much quicker even without use. That means sharpening more and more maintenance. A stainless steel knife I just clean and dry and in a month with daily use I give it a quick strop on my leather trouser belt once a week and I use toothpaste as compound.
Always look after your tools it’s a must. Nice knife fair play 👍🏻
Thank you
Nice no-nonsense demo there mate 👍
Nice video l
Hi Rob ☺, hope you and your's are doing ok, good tips on maintaining carbon blades. And you have my sympathy on the lack of getting out, shocking weather lately, no need to watch a weather report, just stick your head out the door, lol. Thanks for the video mate, stay safe Atb , Stuart UK.
Cheers mate, hopefully get out tomorrow now the pressure is off me.
Still new to knives and sharpening but does the heavy handed pressure on the strop not round the apex? I guess I will have to do some experimenting one my own because I thought I heard heavy pressure would round that edge apex and make it worse, but you seem to have had great results.
You're going to round the edge whenever you strop but I believe that this is the best way.
@@RobEvansWoodsmanHi Rob, do you find that the slight convexing from stropping a zero ground scandi the way that you do adds a perceivable increase in edge durability? How would you say it compares to an actual micro bevel like on a Mora?
Thanks!
The main bevel on a mora is quite shallow so it needs a microbevel if it's going to be used hard, I don't intentionally strop a slight convex into a zero scandi, I don't spend ages stropping.
It definitely helps the edge strength on a zero.
I call those blocks Garryflex Blocks I use the pink (fine)one on my blades and the grey (coarse)one on my handles and pins. You didnt say how you maintained Your handles especially the wooden ones - stabilised and plain oiled ones. I've watched Ben Orford recondition a Maple Handled Wilkinson sword Ray Mears Knife and he's done an SWC oak handled one for me, but I and probably Many others would appreciate your opinion on this??
I rarely use wood handled knives, you probably know more than I do.
I've always been careful with my knives , I've never really felt the need to rub down a wood handle and re-oil and wax it, like I said I rarely use a wood handle knife , I've been using micarta scales for my own knives for about 15 years.
@@RobEvansWoodsman I like wood handles for their aesthetics compared to micarta, I have a Malanika Pukko with a spalted maple handle which is a thing of absolute beauty. Also a Julius Pettersson Woodlore with a tar treated birch?? handle which is as striking a knife as Ive ever seen..Micarta is very functional but now and again I like a 'Special' knife to look the part too..
how thick is the leather on your strop?
mine is quite thick so if I press too hard it actually deforms around the edge and blunts it. I only apply light pressure to avoid this.
ordinary chrome polish works well on a strop too, I find
3.5mm thick, I know when to stop stropping
@@RobEvansWoodsman thanks. it looks like your strop is quite hard though. mine is quite a bit thicker closer to 5mm
I mostly use it to maintain an edge, anything more than that I use Japanese water stones. 6000 grit is the finest which gives a pretty sharp edge!
hi rob, which dmt stones can u recommend? I just used an dc4 before but i want to have my knifes even sharper
and what do u put on ur leather?
I like the 6" for knives at home and the diafolds in the field.
Nice one brother. Always great to see you. How was the maiden concert? I see nicko has been recovering from a stroke just prior to the whole Tour.😁👊🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧💯💯💯🔪🔪🔪🤘
Gig was excellent thanks mate.
Garaflex ans salvo Autosol, for me Rob.
Yes mate I also have a tube of autosol handy , excellent stuff.
Great video, as opposed to the "dirty style" where if it's not full of discoloration and sharpened with a file, then it's not a user
There is no excuse, it's not difficult to whipe the crap off a blade before putting it back in its sheath then giving it a bit of TLC when you get home.
First
Rob, it certainly appears you and I have so much in common every time I watch a video. Only difference is I use EEZOX for long term storage, but if I'm going out in higher humidity with high carbon Ill take Marine Tuf Glide. Stuff works great. Standard Tuf Glide is also great for folders that you can get apart and clean really well , THEN apply it. I just don't understand why people seem to ignore the idea that active red rust and corrosion weakens steel
You sound like a very intelligent man!
IDK about that but after nearly 60 years I've seen slot come and go, like yourself. This thoughtless fascination in the knife industry with pattern welded pretty knife looking objects made of low quality materials for the sake of "art" gets me going. I love a beautiful hard working well conceived blade , but a piece of art that won't hold an edge, breaks splitting 2 inch kindling, full of cold shuts and delaminations, made out of refrigerator parts gets me ill.😂
I find that even top quality Damasteel from Sweden still isn't as good as plain RWL34 which is half it's makeup.
Pretty=bullshit in my opinion, people haven't spent the last 1000+ years perfecting the chemistry in steels for some arty farty clown with a forge to come along and make a Bowie out of a bed frame and bag of bolts and expect it to perform like CPM3V.
My engineer friend Russ was talking about powder steels 25 years ago saying that they would be amazing for knives then a few years later CPM steels came into the public domain, I'm going on a bit now very sorry, you got me going 🤣
That stuff will corrode full of holes if you think about it hard enough, let alone use it. Why go thru all that for a pretty pattern if every time you use it, it turns jet black, then you have to polish it, clean it and redip it in ferric chloride to get it back😂 I love the old authentic Japanese process, but Christ have mercy the amount of work required to KEEP that tool up is pure pain. We can, and DO produce better steels now. If CPM3V or MagnaCut won't get it, I give up😂