Part 2 - DIY Lab Bench Power Supply
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- If you have more questions, please let me know in the comment section!
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PSU circuit board schematic: i.imgur.com/e5...
Volt/ammeter schematic: i.imgur.com/te...
Components list:
Voltmeter/ammeter display: s.click.aliexp...
Binding posts (similar): s.click.aliexp...
Double rocker switch: s.click.aliexp...
Potentiometer knob: s.click.aliexp...
Rotary switch 6 position: s.click.aliexp...
USB port: s.click.aliexp...
10W 47R resistor: s.click.aliexp...
Rubber pads: s.click.aliexp...
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I'm not an electronics nerd. I got to this video because I wanted to use my old PC power supply for LED halloween props. This video is well done that even non-electrical types can understand! Thanks for posting
seriously, if every video is detailed like this with explanations, then you've got yourself a fan who will like every video!
A dummy load is mandatory for ANY regulated smps, because they need a certain permanent current draw in order to properly stabilise the output voltage. The reason because some of them can work without a dummy load connected, is because they already have one, which is the actual cooling fan, instead of a simple resistor. But the better, more expensive ones have the fan connected to a separate winding of the chopper transformer, because otherwise, the fan circuitry may induce unwanted noise in the computer power rails, and their dummy load is a resitor, or if the fan is directly connected on the general 12v output, a series voltage regulator ic and a lower voltage fan are used.
I was about to ask exactly this, if I could use the fan instead of a power resistor
fernandoanimator you can, but add another 1500-3300uF low esr capacitor and a 100nF capacitor in paralel with the fan to filter the noise.
I was following the video to build one, my PSUs (actually building 2) have built in Fans. According to the video, he used a 10w 43ohms choke resistor but I could only get the 10w 47ohm, I took it because I thought the difference isn't much. Now when I connected the resistor to the 5v rail (red wire) and Ground, the resistor heats up so much that it began to smoke badly and I quickly have to turn the PSU off.
Tho I noticed, the outputs of my 3.3,5 & 12 was active even without the dummy load resistor. Does that mean my PSU don't need the Dummy load?
A very good explanation about " dummy load "...very useful...thanks for sharing !
As you, I connected the USB port to main 5v (Red Wire) instead of Purple Standby wire. I did not need to shorted together the data Pins of the USB femele, and during some test my phone is drawing around 900mA, while being at 74%, so success!! As you said, this device is for prototyping not for charging device as phones...
I used one Main Switch to switch the device instead of 2 switchs, because 2 switchs is kind of boring after a while.
I shorted together Green Wire (Power) and some Black Ground Wire, and connected the switch just after the 220v rail. So 1 switch to power the device is neat 😉
Nice followup vid!
I very much like how you explain not only WHAT you are doing but also WHY... instead of just filming yourself making stuff silently like so many others do.
A small note: I noticed that you use the word "consumer" when speaking about the devices you will connect to consume power. This is technically not wrong at all, but could be confusing to some people because the word is almost exclusively used as a generic reference to anyone who buys a product or service.
Alternatives: Load or connected device.
Cheers from Canada!
For the problem of the selector you talk about at 6:25 : Just put 470R resistor on each cable to the selector (3v/5v/12v...), not the common pin of course. And so, the power supply won't shut down.
And thanks for this excellent tutorial. ONLY USE this tip if you only use the selector for voltage measuring... If you want to use the selector for output to a Vout terminal, use a better selector without the short-circuit problem.
I appreciate very much this follow-up video. So you're not using the rotary switch to change between outputs, but only to measure voltage and current. (This much I understood right after I watched your tutorial and I was like "huh?")
Your V/A multimeter is different from mine, though they have the very same case. Connections on mine are way different so I had to work them out by myself with some help from the Net. It went well in the end (though I had some shorts here and there, or wired them plain wrong). Generally speaking, ammeters are to be connected in series with the load, while voltmeters must be plugged in parallel. The rotary switch just makes things a little more interesting, though my schematics isn't so different from yours. Figuring out how to actually wire them up in real life is sometimes a pain for people (like me) who try to hack a PC PSU into a bench power supply as their very first electronics project. And it taught me a lot of stuff.
Also, I was "shocked" once by those big caps while testing the PSU to see if it was working, so I learned my lesson: never mess with electrical energy. Thanks for the tips on how to discharge them.
It's just for Voltages, the Ammeter will display any current being used.
Really good videos, part 1 & 2!
This stuff is still a bit over my head but it's good to watch and is something to aspire to. I don't think it will be too long before I am trying things like this so really good stuff!
Thanks for sharing! 👍
Just FYI for anybody building a bench PSU from ATX like this. Nowadays you can find breakout boards that do all of the work for you on ebay. I picked up 4 of them for $10 and change delivered (I have no idea how it's profitable. But that's not my problem). They have an ATX (20-pin I think) jack, a power switch, 12V - -12V - 5V - 3.3V outputs, each with a pair of binding posts and a fuse. The only negative really is that with just those wires, you're limited with the output current. But you can just install "high-current" outputs from the rest of the wires on the PSU. At least I think. I'm in the process of trying this theory out along with isolating the secondary in a matched pair that I will then run in series for a theoretical high current 24V output
Hi Sorin, I really like your converted Computer Power Supply, and it was good that you made a follow-up video to answer the various questions and comments. I have read all of the comments, and I really like that someone has noted that there is no protection of the Power Supply (on the DC side). I think that your conversion requires a Fuse Section for all of the DC Outputs, possibly no room inside the Casing, but could be mounted externally. Please could you also consider that many of the people who are watching your videos will most certainly build this useful multi-voltage Power Supply. Many of the people will connect a variety of DC Motors to the modified Power Supply. DC Motors create a large inductive load when the motor is turned off. Without introducing Blocking Diodes into the Circuitry, I have a feeling that the Power Supply (which has been modified by all of your enthusiasts) - may become a disappointment! I really like the work that you do, pl;ease accept this as constructive criticism and I am just an idiot with a Soldering Iron! Do you feel that this needs some further explanation!
Thanks, very useful, i didnt know how to connect my mini voltmeter, you explained very well, thanx again! 👍
For the North America, there needs to be chassis mounted MAIN circuit protection. Either a fuse or circuit breaker mounted next to the power jack.
This will be in my DIY project list. I would preferably add step-up boost board so I can have extra variations in my voltages.
I did it all over again. And it works great. There is a problem when I connect the usb. The Amps are not working so I swapped the grnd from the usb to the other side of the big grnd cable and it works great now thank you 🙏
You forgot the part about letting the cat pass, but I guess that doesn't need any further explanation xD ! great video. gave me the confidence to proceed with one of my DIY projects.
Nice project and a very good tutorial. Thanks!
extraordinary video, very clear explanation, thank you. I am passionate about electronics although it is not my specialty. I decided to do the same with a power supply I own. You will have been able to do it with a higher voltage and intensity 45 volts for example. Thank you
Great Explanations , Thanks . Great Video ! Much Better than Most.
Your tutorial is very very good, better and best for our knowledge, we are now able & enable to make ATX Bench power supply for our home use.
So that I am v. Thankful to you.
You have done an excellent job on both parts of your video's. Thank you so much for sharing.
Excellent explanation throughout the project ....Keep it up
Nice job. I saw the tutorial for this and liked it as well. Cheers and keep up the good work.
connect positive binding post to one of the terminal of the selector switch to add a voltmeter feature
Really great video, perfectly explained and a great follow-up to all questions from your first video! Subscribed
Every TH-cam tutorial video should be like yours.the first one is good.but this one is excellent, detail and well explained.thumbs up
Can You Make a Video on a ATX Power Supply for 24v Battery Charging?
Good Explanation of This one!
Thumbs Up.
Thanks for Uploading
Sorin,I hadn't noticed but you did include detail for parts and purchase. It was hide below the circuit schematics...Thanks again...
Thank you for sharing this excellent video.
Thanks for following up with an FAQ. Subscribed 👍🏼
Excellent project
very good
I wonder if you could use the hole in the side of the case where the PC leads used to come out as a place to put externally accessible fuses for the posts. I guess it gets evermore complicated. But that hole will turn out to be useful for something. Great videos.
hi. that is a good idea. you can probably fit one fuse there. but you need 3 or 4 fuses and it's very crowded behind the front panel. it's more complicated, but not impossible.
Please create us a voltage Variable Power Supply. I would love to follow your schematic of it.
Yt is full of DIY videos, but none are worth yours!! Yours videos/schematics are explaned very well! I already followed your instruction to make a DIY 18650 Battery Charger, and it works like a charm. keep the great work, and hope you will be able to give us DIY videos more frequently.
Thanks.
ANTEC 300 casing for life!
Your first video was perfect to me understood it well
recien vengo de ver el último modelo que sacaste...!!! esta genial....doy like por mas modelos 💡👌
Hi Sorin, I am subscribing you today as I think you deserve it due to your knowledge and creative PSU designs, good work..
I liked the fact that you incorporate a USB port in that power supply.
Awesome very good and helpful video thanks Pal, I am suscribed to your channel long time ago God bless you from Mexico city
Very well explained. I enjoyed watching the video.
The only things missing are connections for Molex and sata power connections. That said, if you were using a modular PSU, you could just plug those cables in when needed.
The other thing you could do is put a low value resistor on the PS good wire, I don't remember the exact value since I've always done ceramic ballast resistors, that basically tells the psu that the computer is "active". Good for freeing up some amperage on the 5 volt if it's necessary. I like how the first psu was done, I didn't get that fancy with mine although instead of combining wires I just de soldered them and replaced them with a bit thicker ones, then ran them out of the case to a terminal strip. I left the -12v, 5v stb, and ps-on wires full length and ran them out. Even though I have a switch on the back of the psu I still added a chicken switch on the outside to the ps-on in case anything went wrong. Then re-wrapped the wires with the sheathing that came from the power supply. You'd never know it didn't come from the factory like that lol! I did 3 feet so that if it's on an uneven surface it won't bounce around and have fairly good grip.
u are legend, mate.. love ur accent.
I like this projeck ..tks Sorin
Bravo Sorine! Vad ca sunt altii care copiaza deja de la tine. Poate ar fi bine sa faci si cateva filmulete in romana, ca sa nu mai zica astia ca esti rus... dupa accent :)
nice video thanks for sharing
maybe its use full to add LEDs on the positive terminal so you can tell what voltage is selected on the meter... yes? or maybe just write something on the selector =D
Don't worry bro i am only the person from the previous video to knew that you are using that rotary switch for three output voltage wires to connect a single volt and amp meter still having those 3 banana outputs
Love you videos Sorin, keep up the good work! I've learned a lot from you! Subbed and bell on.
Hi I`m new to electronics if you get a short on the psu when turning the rotary switch from 5v to 12v can you not just solder the 12v to pin 4 so that pin 3 is not used...... 3v pin 1, 5v pin 2 , 12v pin 4 would this arrangement not solve the shorting issue
hi. yes that is true. if you have a rotary switch, that makes contact with the next pin, before it breaks the contact with the last pin (make before break) you can use the pins 1, 3 and 5 for 3.3 ; 5 and 12V.
Thank you for the followup. Currently building one of these. Although not shown, I assume that you allowed the cat to pass.
Where do you get a low pass cat filter? Checked Digikey, etc. but couldn't find.
@@tchrapko You must first find some catpacitors.
Will be great to have short protection circit.
clean and clear bro
Best video ...... Love it .....you explain it very easily.....
Hey Sorin... Looks like you completed this project some time back. I really would like this to be my first electronic project can you share the name of the electronic shop or online vendor that you purchased your components. I'm really new to electronic and with Radio Shack no longer around. I'm have trouble finding the same components you used in your build. I sure I can find some that close to what you used. However I would rather use the same components you used. Mainly because your power supply came out looking really nice. While at the same time you presented the build in a simple and clear way, making it easy to duplicate. I realize that there better bench top power supplies. But they also cost a lot more. Anyway hope you can share the detail for where you purchased all you components. Awesome build!!!
Please add a parts list schematic and place to purchase. Your instructions are very good
good job
Very good job!
Keep up the good work! mi-ar fi de mare folos cateva notiuni de la tine pe care nu le stapanesc deoarece imaginez cateva echipamente stiintifice pe care nu le-am gasit in varianta DIY... la nivelul meu folosesc o sursa conventionala de laborator si nu reusesc nicicum sa fac coolerul sa se roteasca incet (in contextul de agitator magnetic cu chimicale poate fi aiurea) stiu ca as putea folosi un motor pas cu pas de HDD dar ma depaseste... am abilitati mestersugaresti in sensul unui chimist/biolog si ma gandesc ca ti-as putea fi de folos daca ai avea dispozitia sa ma indrumezi cu privire la unele chestii
Nice one
Thank you very much
Hi, i would like to do it with a variable voltage and ampère separate,
With Two potentiomètre or one with a switch to sélect volts or Amp.
And also can i put 2 other potentiometer inside for calibration .
Nice vidéo be the way 👏👏👏
Thank’s
Much better explanation...
'Here you can see the same phone with the same USB lead' S
*notices its the same phone but it is a different USB lead. The original one had a curve on the one side with the lead going into the phone connector off-central. The 'new' lead had the more commonly seen central cable with both sides straight.
hi. it's the same USB cable, I don't know what you think you see. it's not a conspiracy. in fact you can use any USB cable you want, I just wanted to point out, that the 5V red wire has more current than the 5V purple standby wire.
@@Sorin_DIY I understand with the current output, however the USB cable is definitly different. You can't say its the same cable when it clearly is different for the fact that the connector to the phone is a completely different shape?
Hi, it would be a great idea to place this really nice proyect in a Facebook electronic group as to know exactly the parts we will need and all the process. Thanks
Please, is there a place on the web with the diagram and procedure to build this regulated power supply, I have a lot of this and would like to give them a new life, also I have a 12 volts transformer and would like to build a linear variable power supply, any recommendations to look for the circuitry will be very much appreciated. Regards from Venezuela
Great Explanation!!
How would you go about making a variable voltage supply off of the 12v connection?
hi. this will also work. but I want to make a separate video with a variable power supply, so I can explain everything about it.
A profitable video. Thank you
How about a video for making a DIY load tester for Desktop switching power supplies, laptop power supplies, wall transformers for routers, etc. 9v-18.0v with variable load
that's a good idea. I will make one in a future video.
C'mon! You wait for a month cause you order from E bay and it comes from China. You can spend a couple (maybe) more $ and get it sometimes the next day from Amazon.
Perfetto nella spiegazione 👍 👍 👍👍👍
good job! the same with boost 24 v!!!!!
Great videos! Thank you!
Parabéns amigo gosto muito de eletrônica ficou muito show tuas fontes abraço!
Great Sorin
You are amazing bro THX for doing this kind of videos :D
So basically - Can I use DC-DC step down/up converter (0-30V) connected to 5V line, with two potentiometers, connected to display and have basically variable bench power supply?
yes. but I suggest you use the 12V output.
mega nice
Hi Sorin thanks for posting these informative videos.
I had a look at your variable voltage power supply video but that's a very different build to this. My thought is to use a XL6009 step up module as an output off the 12V rail of my ATX bench power supply build to charge 14.4v (4S) and 18v (5S) rebuilt Li Ion drill battery, what do you think?
addendum: FYI my old ATX PSU had a pink wire! Turns out (after a bit of browsing) to be a sensor wire for the 5v rail, similar to the brown wire for the 3.3v rail. Treat in the same manner.
hi. yes it will work. but for the 4S battery pack I think you need 16.8V. you should read the datasheet of your cells and BMS board. if you don't use the original BMS board of the drill, you need a good BMS for this type of conversion. also the step up converter IC will get very hot, so you need to add a heatsink.
@@Sorin_DIY Thank you that's great advice. And it's no problem to get the V and A showing on the led meter via the 6 way switch, same connection as the other outputs?
I ordered a 20A 4S board (ebay # 202393983053 ), still hasn't arrived yet! Then later I watched DIY Tricks&Tips video FN0mx5n4ocA. The first board he used cuts out when the drill starts. But I think it depends how you set it all up - if you check his circuit diagram 4.30mins, the power for the drill is off the output points on the BM board. If the power for the drill is wired direct, not through the board, then this can't happen right? However then you won't get the protection benefits of the board (discharge limit etc)? I noted that in your (excellent) drill pack rebuild video you just used a pretty low rated board.
Very nice sir
Hello I did the same thing you did . But when I switch it on I feel some current at the outside of the case.
Maybe you now what to do. Or what I did wrong.
Thank you for the nice looking power supply.
Greetings Rene
hi. you need to check the circuit board and all the connections inside the case. probably a wire or an imperfect joint it's touching the case. or you can use it in a grounded outlet.
Sorin - DIY Electrical Nerd
I Will get it open 😩 and check it again.
It’s so hard to get it closed again
Letting you now when I find something wrong.
Thank you for the reply
There was a solderpin from the board touched the outside of the case when I closed it so that is solved now.
When I did use it for testing something I have the 3.3-5-12volt but it displays no Amps and that’s why I made it. I want to now the Amps. So I did look to the schematic and I did exactly what it said. But no amps.🤔
try to reverse the 2 thick ammeter wires.
this tutorial what im looking for ,thank you,its so helpfull
Nice bro for explanation
Hi, thanks for the wonderful explanation, I have all the components available but I have only a 47 ohm 10W resistor, can I use that?
yes, it should be ok.
Thank you Bro, I completed the power supply today :)
the aesthetic is identical to yours, it has only two clamps
and an extra potentiometer because I added an adjustable 12v output using an LM317 that I had at home.
Thanks for explaining some of the more complicated points. Can the 12v Circuit be tweaked to a 13.8v Output, if so can you explain how this is done.RegardsClive
hi. it's very difficult and it may not work. the simplest way is to add a powerful step up converter.
Ok Thanks Just thinking may be able to adjust one of the pots on the PCB
on some power supplies you can do that, or replace a feedback resistor. but it's difficult to find it and most likely you need to replace other components as well. and in the end the power supply may not work correctly. so it's much safer to use a separate converter.
A lot better video👍
Thank You, pal! Nice result for me, but little bit differ from Yours.
If I have a psu with 2 12v rails with 19A, and a 5v rail with 20A where shoud I put the load resistor?
Hi Sorin, thank you very much for this great video a have a question, I need specific amp like 375ma Is it possible to adjust amper, using 360 rotary switch? What kind of setup we should make for this?
hi. this is a fixed voltage/current power supply. you can't limit the current. you need a variable power supply with current limiting possibility. you can add a constant-current / constant-voltage step down converter to the 12V rail, and adjust the voltage and current. I will soon make a variable power supply tutorial, and explain all of this in detail.
Tutorial Legend
thank you so much.
Salut Sorin, I'll write in English in case others have the same question. Can you use this to charge multiple 12v batteries at once? I need to charche some 12-20ah lithium ion ones, and some 12v 7-10ah lead acid ones.
Hi. you can use this power supply, but not directly connected to the batteries or li-ion cells. you need to add a CC/CV converter for each battery/cell. for example for a 12V lead acid battery you need to set the charging voltage to 13.5~14V and limit the current to 10~25% of the battery capacity.
thank you for you video very helpful!
I have a atx power supply of 450W. When i connected a 12v/35W car headlight lamp to the 12v supply of my atx power supply the voltage suddenly drops from 12.1V to 10.1V while the lamp only consuming 2.5A current.why this happening?
Note - i have only used single yellow wire and single black wire.
Very good follow up video. Could you please provide the resistor & diode specifications thank you.
hi. the dummy load resistor value depends on the power supply needs. most PSUs will work fine with a 10W 22-33ohm resistor. but what diode are you referring to?
Hi Sorin thanks for replying promptly. I'm referring to the LED & current limiting resistor.
it's a simple 3mm LED. the resistor's value should be 470ohm.
Thank you Sorin, very much appreciated.
Can this type of computer 🖥 power 🔋 supply be used to make a car battery charger? With the range of volts on like yours, 3v, 5v and 12v, can it be used to restore a flat car battery with about 2 to 3v with selectable current levels too?
If not, can you do a vid showing how to make 1 with those specs that also uses a relay circuit that turns off the charger once the battery is full please.
hi. it's not that simple to charge lead-acid batteries with a PC power supply. you need to limit the current, otherwise you will damage the battery or the power supply. even if the battery is almost dead, you can't connect it directly to 5V. I think the best way is to use the 12V output with 2 powerful step up and step down converters, with current limiting. if the battery has less than 9V, you connect it to the step down converter and slowly charge the battery to 12V with a limited current of a few amps. then you connect it to the step up converter and continue the charging to around 13.5V (depending on the battery) with the current limited to a few amps. a better choice to charge a lead-acid battery is my variable power supply.
I love the design , it shows some creativity with something that's technical. I have one question though... Is it possible to use this design for a voltage stabilizer at 13.5 volts and up with a few modifications?
hi. you need a powerful step up converter connected to the 12V output. and instead of the rotary switch, use a potentiometer for the step up converter.
Hello, Sorin, would you mind explaining how you calculate the load resistance?
Awesome
And can u make this atx as a adjustable output,? Because I I'd like to have one,for my work shop,some videos are hard to follow,you have an excellent explanation,so that it is so easily to understand,please,make it.
hi. I will soon make a variable power supply.
@@Sorin_DIY thank you,o don't want to let burn my last atx power supply,I have 5 before,it all burns,by making on it,.