Dear friend In your item description of the parts to be used you describe 6) 10W 10Ohm Ceramic Resistors x2. In the shown vid and 10W 20 Ohm Ceramic Resistors x2, Which right should I use ???
The connection of the rotary switch in the diagram have my doubts...how do you just connect to the rotary switch and then direct connect to the output (banana plug) without going through the rotary switch...how is the rotary switch going to function? Or where am i missing something?
I have a psu that worked, connected green to black and it turned on the fan. After cutting the wires, when I connect green to black, it spins the fan for half on sec and then it stops. And idea? The purple 5v has power for an led, but the other wires stop after half second
Thank you for the quick replay.there is no connection between banana plug and rotary switch .so each plug is used for separate voltage ?can't we get 5v 12v etc from the same plug by adjusting the rotary switch . That is my doubt. Cold u please explain .I couldn't follow that part of the diagram
Hi, I have a question. Why did you use 3 different ground binding posts, since you connected them together with the same ground wires? Only one common ground post wouldn't be enough?
I hace a doubt, it seems that my source atx doesn't have the fuse included, if I wanted to add it, where should I put it? Will be right if I connect it in series with my switch of stand by or where? If anyone can help me I'll be so thankful.
your video is understood. the explanation is clear, however I would like to know the small circuit that you have removed from the power supply unit (3mn 10s of the video) and you soldered to the input of the power supply (8mn 39s) what is it called? If not soldering this circuit, can the power supply unit give the same results? And what is its role in everything you have done. Thank you
CAUTION: It should be clearly stated that the knob does not change the voltage on any of the outputs... it only changes which voltage rail that is being monitored by the voltmeter portion of the display. If you turn the knob but do not change the wires from one set of posts to the other, you might fry your project by mistake. If you build this project, it is important to remember this warning.
He should have a volt meter for each rail or may be have the knob switch between the different rails while the display put parallel to the knob so that it changes with the power supplied
i expected it im like how did he do that , turns out he didnt hes just making it look like that , i made the real thing its here drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1WiVQ2QsuwcQILfkM251yoagN3w08bVVy
@@dedskin1 If you have the knob switch the actual voltages to the posts as well, why do u have 2 sets of posts? P.S. Not tryina be judgemental. Genuinely curious.
You made it upside down. Hot snot on the dummy load not a good idea. Is the current meter in line of all the outputs? You didn't set the stop on the rotary switch.
nice project, im building mine and getting many examples of how to made it. Why did you put the switch that change the volts, if they are static from each binding post. You dont need to swicht it for use the different voltage, right? or something change when you switch?
I'm thinking to make a project like this, but using a regulator for variable voltage and current. I should ask a few questions. Why did you assemble 3 pieces of cables for each 3.3v, 5v and 12v outputs? To provide more current from this terminals or prevent heating up this cables? What's the purpose of this dummy loads? Why did you use a rotary switch? When you set it to 3.3v, 5v and 12v outputs are still active. Is it only useful for reading current of connected port?
Nice power supply. But what's use of the voltmeter when all the voltages are fixed? Is this voltmeter only use to show changed voltage when you're connecting output cable to another terminal?
@LahisTech If I wanted this to only output 12V would I still need the 10W 40Ohm resistor? I'm currently trying to get an ATX PSU to work, but it keeps switching off. I have a 10W 10Ohm resistor connected to a 5V red lead and thought I may need one on either or a 12V and 3.3V...now I'm wondering if the resistor is the wrong one.
If your power supply is newer,then theres no reason to put a load on it.Just check the pins with a multimeter its near the supposed voltage like 3.4v on 3.3v then you dont need a load
I was thinking maybe it would shut itself off without it? But who knows? I would like to know why he didn't add a 24 volt option? He had + 12 volt and -12 volt.
Question: Could one use the 5vsb to power the display when you use the 3.3v? Mine dimms a lot at 3.3v, so using the 5vsb as an "external" power source for the display seems like an option.
Oye, sabes si tiene desventajas a la hora de diagnosticar ?
2 ปีที่แล้ว
@@NovatoWTF Hola, solo date cuenta que es una fuente de voltajes que te haces en casa y solo puedes confiar en que el fabricante de la fuente haya hecho sus mediciones. Por lo consiguiente, no creo que su huso sea profesional, solo para las chapuzas típicas de kuñados. Espero te sirva de ayuda mi respuesta, un saludo.
What I am wondering, is if the ATX PSU has a control module to regulate the voltages and if there's a way to splice a potmeter into there to actually regulate the output voltages ...
I hace a doubt, it seems that my source atx doesn't have the fuse included, if I wanted to add it, where should I put it? Will be right if I connect it in series with my switch of stand by or where? If anyone can help me I'll be so thankful.
Buen video amigo, el selector de voltaje que colocaste, no conmuta el voltaje de salida en las diferentes borneras, por lo que puedes estar usando la salida de 12 voltios, y estar marcando 5 en el voltimetro. De todas formas la fuente te quedó excelente, gracias por compartir. Good video friend, the voltage selector that you placed, does not switch the output voltage on the different terminals, so you can be using the 12 volt output, and be dialing 5 on the voltmeter. Anyway the font was excellent for you, thanks for sharing.
Porque si mira bien lo schema grafico del circuito il potensiometro no es collegato bien,es collegato a la entrada e no a la uscita.....solo al voltmeter....
@@LahisTechLT I was reffering to not having a variable amperage control. Am I not better off being able to control the amps put out by the PSU? I've heard people say the circuit will only use what it needs.
@@LEO-xo9cz yeah true, you can't made a variable PSU from these PC PSUs. You can only take 12v 5v 3.3v rails from it, if you are trying to make a one with variable AMP and VOLTAGE control you should modify the Circuit. I've seen some thing similar modification on "GreatScott's" "HACKED!: ATX Power Supply with Variable Output Voltage?" video
I had one but I broke it when trying to solder I melted the plastic and some connectors become loos tryed to melt them back can't put it together :( I was like not wort my time I buy a new one
Why do you need rotary switch if in any case every plug shows it's own voltage. Just connect bananas into plug you need an here it is, voltage that you wanted.
thank´s for your video and time, ihave some questions if you can tell me: wich is the need of the two resistors of 10w. and the circuit with the toroid and capacitor you welded in the input, and at last why didn´t you used the blue wire with -12v ? thank you very much again, regards.
I have seen many videos of ATX power supplies turned into compact bench power supplies mainly for using with CB radios. Still i think its a hazardous project to turn an ATX power supplies into a bench power supply. But none of the power supplies can get over 12 volts. So to use a cb radio at 12 volts will work but not fully. I rather get myself a real power supply that gives out 13.8V DC for my CRT SS9900 Amateur radio to work correctly. Its a neat project but dangerous. You really should know what you are doing!
If you take the outputs +12V and -12V you are going to get +24V 1A aprox. The same happens when you take +12V and -5V you obtain +17V. All combinations can be done. :)
Thank you, well done and easy to understand :) BUT: unfortunately I can't find such a small (and affordable) volt/amp meter that supports enough current for my old ATX power supply: 3,3V*28A, 5V*30A, 12V*15A. I can hardly believe that the amp meter used in the video supports more than 10A. So be careful not to grill it by connecting too much load.
HI LahisTech, why you solder the black thin wire from the ampmeter to one black ground wire from the psu? thx for you answer! nice Vid + nice shemata!!!
why did your ATX not have a mains plug ( power connector ) already fitted. my Atx I am going to use already has a mains plug ( power connector ) in situedo I have to modify it in any way
Hello Lahis where can I get the diagram & parts list for this very nice compact Power Supply unit which you published on 01/24/2019; I want to make one, I have several ATX PS units, thanks.
@@mikebond6328 it is just in case you gona need 2 or more GND, let say you are testng 2 devices at the same time. Perso I did not do that and instead replace the 2 additional GND, by -5v and -12v rails. They can be usefull in case you need more that 12v... you can get 15v or 17v or even 24v!! Check rail combo of PS for more info!!
Very nice choice of color! -- Relatively neutral without being boring. ;-) Two little things I would say. Your vertical power switch is upside down, and you should make it VERY clear what the knob does.
@Neodiy,c0m: You don't have to test them to know if they are blown. If you look at them main board you can see that they're popped. And some blown capacitors can still work. They will just be noisier and won't work at 100%.
muflo71 If I have this correct, some power supplies (older?) require a constant load on the 5V rail for stability of the psu. The resistor(s) provide that. One possible alternative I ‘ve seen suggested for the load is a 5V led, which could be used as a power on indicator on the front panel, I would think.
Hi man, great video! Thanks. I have a question. I made my ATX bench, and all the outputs are ok, but with a slight instability in tension, like +/- 0.02 volts, and when I want to use it to power my servomotors (controlled by Arduino), this slight instability makes my servos jitter very hard. Do you know what can be de cause and/or solution to this? Thanks in advance everyone!
Did you check the code once again. This happens due to several reasons, some of non-quality servos have; gearing backlash which mean mechanical errors in gearing. so it causes for the failure in Encoder (lower feedback controller). Also, these stability happens if you don't use quality thick wires (excessive gains/ripples in pwm pulses). My advice is to upload the servo library back again and check the code specially delays. Check the ground connection of ATX ps highly recommended. Hook up a capacitor between +ve & -ve of you servo (470uF or above)
@@LahisTechLT thank you for your answer. The code is fine because if unplug the ATX from the breadboard and connect the Arduino's 5v instead it works like a charm. The problem occurs only when I try to power the servos with my atx. I connect the grounds together and all. I've been told that this supplies, specially cheap ones, tend to be noisy. I've been recommended to use a servo driver so I will probably purchase one. Anyway I like the idea of putting a capacitor in parallel with the servos. I will definitely try that. Do you think that putting one larger capacitor straight on the output of the power supply could work? So I can have one set up for all the servos? Thank you for your time. I really appreciate it. I'm very new to this and I have no mentors yet. I hope you have a great day!
@@PabloGnesutta Yeah, true a lot of ATX ps in the market are not properly made. specially the Chinese ones, i recommend to go for a HP one. Yeah using a motor drive will also solve your issue to certain extend. L293D shield is best option for that. I have used it and works pretty perfect. No. use filter capacitors individually per servo, it's more effective than a one big capacitor hook up to the main supply. I made a SCARA type robotic arm using servos and I fixed capacitors individually to get more smooth and precise movements along it's arms. (that's a 4 degree of freedom arm with 3 servos and one big encodered DC motor) Thank you
@@LahisTechLT Thank you for your response. I yet have to try the effect of individual capacitors on each servo, and I will this weak. I solved the problem, after reading a lot, connecting the Power Supply's output to a 7805 voltage regulator with two capacitors and then connecting the regulator's output to the breadboard, it works like a charm now. Thank you for your attention and willingness to answer =) If anyone tries to implement the voltage regulator solution to this, have in mind that the regulator's output could fluctuate if it has no load connected to it. You can test it putting a simple resistor closing the circuit.
The power supply is capable of outputting very high currents, up to 30 amps. But by plugging your (10A max) ammeter into the common ground you just unnecessarily limited the whole thing to 10A. That connection also makes your load ground not totally identical to your supply ground, the ammeter's shunt is between them.
Using this video I'm converting an ATX power supply to use with my LIPO balance charger, so instead of using the 10amp ammeter I'm using a similar unit rated at 50amp, which is more than enough for my application.
Hi Friend nice video but what is the point of the selector it wont show the real voltage you still need to select the correct voltage you need from the red plugs.
It's simplier than the others, because you still use the housing, I'll probably imitate this, TY! Sir!
What do you call do the board shown at 3:15? I don't have that one in my ATX power supply. Hope you'll notice this query. Thanks
Good tiching karte hai 👌👍👌👌👍👍👍👌👌
You need a rotary tool! I don't know how I survived so long without one. Really good for cutting all those square cut outs with a small cut-off wheel.
Dear friend
In your item description of the parts to be used you describe 6) 10W 10Ohm Ceramic Resistors x2.
In the shown vid and 10W 20 Ohm Ceramic Resistors x2,
Which right should I use ???
What is the use of the two resistors with the red and black terminals that you connected?
The connection of the rotary switch in the diagram have my doubts...how do you just connect to the rotary switch and then direct connect to the output (banana plug) without going through the rotary switch...how is the rotary switch going to function? Or where am i missing something?
What about the short protection ? Is it disabled ?? Otherwise we won't be able to run at high amp
I have a psu that worked, connected green to black and it turned on the fan. After cutting the wires, when I connect green to black, it spins the fan for half on sec and then it stops. And idea? The purple 5v has power for an led, but the other wires stop after half second
Melhor video de montagem de fonte k já vi
Brod... it is possible to use only one black binding post since it has already a selector?...
Thank you for the quick replay.there is no connection between banana plug and rotary switch .so each plug is used for separate voltage ?can't we get 5v 12v etc from the same plug by adjusting the rotary switch . That is my doubt. Cold u please explain .I couldn't follow that part of the diagram
Sathyan P.G same question from me
Hi, I have a question. Why did you use 3 different ground binding posts, since you connected them together with the same ground wires? Only one common ground post wouldn't be enough?
yup, but i want it looks better with 3 separate grounds
@@LahisTechLT Oh, so i can use only one to save space, right?
@@ttibor yeah
I hace a doubt, it seems that my source atx doesn't have the fuse included, if I wanted to add it, where should I put it? Will be right if I connect it in series with my switch of stand by or where? If anyone can help me I'll be so thankful.
i have never seen such a perfect video and the perfect work that you've done
your video is understood. the explanation is clear, however I would like to know the small circuit that you have removed from the power supply unit
(3mn 10s of the video) and you soldered to the input of the power supply (8mn 39s) what is it called? If not soldering this circuit, can the power supply unit give the same results? And what is its role in everything you have done. Thank you
CAUTION:
It should be clearly stated that the knob does not change the voltage on any of the outputs... it only changes which voltage rail that is being monitored by the voltmeter portion of the display. If you turn the knob but do not change the wires from one set of posts to the other, you might fry your project by mistake. If you build this project, it is important to remember this warning.
Robert Cartier yeah 100% true. thanks.
He should have a volt meter for each rail or may be have the knob switch between the different rails while the display put parallel to the knob so that it changes with the power supplied
DAN OKODE only thing you have be careful of , from which rail you gets power according to your application. 3.3v , 5v or 12v...
i expected it im like how did he do that , turns out he didnt hes just making it look like that , i made the real thing its here drive.google.com/drive/u/0/folders/1WiVQ2QsuwcQILfkM251yoagN3w08bVVy
@@dedskin1 If you have the knob switch the actual voltages to the posts as well, why do u have 2 sets of posts? P.S. Not tryina be judgemental. Genuinely curious.
You made it upside down. Hot snot on the dummy load not a good idea. Is the current meter in line of all the outputs? You didn't set the stop on the rotary switch.
Current meter is used with ground.. ground is common for all. So it will work on all 3.3, 5 , and 12
Does something change if instead of the 20 ohm resistor I take the 18 one?
i did all the same but the amps shows 0. also can i forse the psu to give 10amps to work for a peltier?
nice project, im building mine and getting many examples of how to made it. Why did you put the switch that change the volts, if they are static from each binding post. You dont need to swicht it for use the different voltage, right? or something change when you switch?
To switch the amp/voltage meter between three voltage levels. Appreciate your support.
Se queda pegada la mano o algo así?
In your project did u install a fuse? in case you the positive and negative tips touch and it causes damage to the machine
can you explain why you use dummy load?
I'm thinking to make a project like this, but using a regulator for variable voltage and current. I should ask a few questions.
Why did you assemble 3 pieces of cables for each 3.3v, 5v and 12v outputs? To provide more current from this terminals or prevent heating up this cables?
What's the purpose of this dummy loads?
Why did you use a rotary switch? When you set it to 3.3v, 5v and 12v outputs are still active. Is it only useful for reading current of connected port?
Hi, can i connect 12v and 5v together and then use a DC to DC module to get more power from atx?
Par Excellent! Very well Explained! Thank You.
hi,
why did you connect two resistors to the 5 volt output?
Is this power supply ok for diy projects or Arduino projects testing...as every nodes are producing more than 20 ams ?
yes, I use it for everything!! arduino most projects need 5v, and also for 12v projects!!
So YES, for all DIY electro projects it is a must have!!
Nice power supply. But what's use of the voltmeter when all the voltages are fixed? Is this voltmeter only use to show changed voltage when you're connecting output cable to another terminal?
@LahisTech If I wanted this to only output 12V would I still need the 10W 40Ohm resistor? I'm currently trying to get an ATX PSU to work, but it keeps switching off. I have a 10W 10Ohm resistor connected to a 5V red lead and thought I may need one on either or a 12V and 3.3V...now I'm wondering if the resistor is the wrong one.
If your power supply is newer,then theres no reason to put a load on it.Just check the pins with a multimeter its near the supposed voltage like 3.4v on 3.3v then you dont need a load
👍👍👍🙂🤝
Very nice brofesser
Good Job. Identical project to "Sorin - DIY Electrical Nerd".
Hi, Could you explain why you need two 10W 10Ohm Ceramic Resistors? Thanks!
I was thinking maybe it would shut itself off without it? But who knows?
I would like to know why he didn't add a 24 volt option?
He had + 12 volt and -12 volt.
The pc power supply need a cargo for give the right voltage i am not 100%
Question: Could one use the 5vsb to power the display when you use the 3.3v? Mine dimms a lot at 3.3v, so using the 5vsb as an "external" power source for the display seems like an option.
sehr gut erklärt, mit ganz einfachen Mitteln nachzubauen, ich kann leider nur einmal Daumen hoch geben, Du hättest 10 mal verdient.
very well explained, to build with very simple means, unfortunately I can only give my thumbs up once, you would have earned 10 times.
Your video is very interesting
Hi, I have a question, should the resistor be connected to the negative side of the diode from the usb?
Sorry, should be connected to the anode.
@@LahisTechLT thanks.
Nice work.
A mais bonita que vi até agora!
Legal muito bom...👍👍
Etdidirofiriirirufidjfirjfiriririfirjrfuiffiriir
😀😃😃😃😃😄😃😄😄😄
What is the little card connecxted to power line??
Awesome job, did u publish a parts list? With numbers?
Simple, smart, robust and very util. If not good for you, buy a professional Lab bench power supply...
Gran trabajo, yo me hice una con salidas USB de 5v, una de 3,3, otra de 12 y otra regulada de 34v, un saludo.
Oye, sabes si tiene desventajas a la hora de diagnosticar ?
@@NovatoWTF Hola, solo date cuenta que es una fuente de voltajes que te haces en casa y solo puedes confiar en que el fabricante de la fuente haya hecho sus mediciones. Por lo consiguiente, no creo que su huso sea profesional, solo para las chapuzas típicas de kuñados.
Espero te sirva de ayuda mi respuesta, un saludo.
What I am wondering, is if the ATX PSU has a control module to regulate the voltages and if there's a way to splice a potmeter into there to actually regulate the output voltages ...
You can add a variable buck converter to any rail of this power supply and then you can control the voltage according to your preferences
Таке запитання, у мене є 1 блок питания з шим контролером EST7502B вийде зробити лабораторний блок живлення з регулюванням напруги?
I have Question how Much ampere can bear this supply
I hace a doubt, it seems that my source atx doesn't have the fuse included, if I wanted to add it, where should I put it? Will be right if I connect it in series with my switch of stand by or where? If anyone can help me I'll be so thankful.
Yes you must connect in series with and before your on off switch. As fuses are rated in amps so they will be connected in series.
Buen video amigo, el selector de voltaje que colocaste, no conmuta el voltaje de salida en las diferentes borneras, por lo que puedes estar usando la salida de 12 voltios, y estar marcando 5 en el voltimetro. De todas formas la fuente te quedó excelente, gracias por compartir. Good video friend, the voltage selector that you placed, does not switch the output voltage on the different terminals, so you can be using the 12 volt output, and be dialing 5 on the voltmeter. Anyway the font was excellent for you, thanks for sharing.
Porque si mira bien lo schema grafico del circuito il potensiometro no es collegato bien,es collegato a la entrada e no a la uscita.....solo al voltmeter....
Is current regulation not necessary?
I want to add a buck boost to be able to have up to 36v with at least 100w.
yeah, dummy load is necessary, otherwise output voltage will not stable.
@@LahisTechLT I was reffering to not having a variable amperage control. Am I not better off being able to control the amps put out by the PSU? I've heard people say the circuit will only use what it needs.
@@LEO-xo9cz yeah true, you can't made a variable PSU from these PC PSUs. You can only take 12v 5v 3.3v rails from it, if you are trying to make a one with variable AMP and VOLTAGE control you should modify the Circuit. I've seen some thing similar modification on "GreatScott's" "HACKED!: ATX Power Supply with Variable Output Voltage?" video
@@LahisTechLT I've seen a few of his videos. I was under the impression i could just use a buck/boost with Vand A controls off of the 12v output.
Good repurposing of the SMPS / ATx power supply
I've had one of those rotary switches lying around for donkey's years, now I know what to do with it.
I had one but I broke it when trying to solder I melted the plastic and some connectors become loos tryed to melt them back can't put it together :(
I was like not wort my time I buy a new one
Why do you need rotary switch if in any case every plug shows it's own voltage. Just connect bananas into plug you need an here it is, voltage that you wanted.
Please tell me why connect risitter 40ohm?
thank´s for your video and time, ihave some questions if you can tell me: wich is the need of the two resistors of 10w. and the circuit with the toroid and capacitor you welded in the input, and at last why didn´t you used the blue wire with -12v ? thank you very much again, regards.
BEAUTIFUL WORK ! SUPER.
How the rotary switch is used to select voltage ??
Sathyan P.G check the circuit diagram..
10w 40ohm laganahe padega kya
You did a great job!
But didn't I see a + 12 volt & -12 volt? You could have added a 24-volt option!
why get 12 position rotary if you only use 4 positions?
I have seen many videos of ATX power supplies turned into compact bench power supplies mainly for using with CB radios. Still i think its a hazardous project to turn an ATX power supplies into a bench power supply. But none of the power supplies can get over 12 volts. So to use a cb radio at 12 volts will work but not fully. I rather get myself a real power supply that gives out 13.8V DC for my CRT SS9900 Amateur radio to work correctly. Its a neat project but dangerous. You really should know what you are doing!
Muy buen trabajo, muy prolijo y me gustó el color.👍👍👍👍
mantap om
I have seen some that have negative voltages for what is it? God Bless You
If you take the outputs +12V and -12V you are going to get +24V 1A aprox. The same happens when you take +12V and -5V you obtain +17V. All combinations can be done. :)
In your diagram, Connecting the RED wire of Amp-meter to GND to will not read a NEGATIVE VALUE ??? I mean the amp-meter will not be damage ?
Hola amigo donde conseguir los elementos y sus precios
Essa fonte é boa e ficou perfeito
Very good project! congratulations!
Check Sorin's!! this is a copy!! Sorin's is even explaining every steps and why this and why that!!
th-cam.com/video/F3_OeVjKHr0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you, well done and easy to understand :)
BUT: unfortunately I can't find such a small (and affordable) volt/amp meter that supports enough current for my old ATX power supply: 3,3V*28A, 5V*30A, 12V*15A. I can hardly believe that the amp meter used in the video supports more than 10A. So be careful not to grill it by connecting too much load.
Thanks you; you can purchase it from Ebay.
Very nice
Thanks
HI LahisTech, why you solder the black thin wire from the ampmeter to one black ground wire from the psu? thx for you answer! nice Vid + nice shemata!!!
nice it looks like a 1 to 1 copy from a 2017 video. still a nice copy.
shrunkzebra plays Thank you
Sorin diy...
Buena aportación, pero si comentásemos más el video mejor. Gracias. Good contribution, but if we discussed the video better. Thank you
Perfect job done
why did your ATX not have a mains plug ( power connector ) already fitted.
my Atx I am going to use already has a mains plug ( power connector ) in situedo I have to modify it in any way
Hello Lahis where can I get the diagram & parts list for this very nice compact Power Supply unit which you published on 01/24/2019; I want to make one, I have several ATX PS units, thanks.
:) Where is current control? You can use internal opamps of TL494 for CC and CV.
Great job!👍
Thanks
OMG! you are a dam Genius !!!
You have layout this video perfectly, thank you- young man!
Boa tarde quanto sai o valor dessa fonte atx chou de bola parabéns
im the 6666 like! :D incredible video! thanks man (from Argentina!)
instead of 10W 40 ohms / 10W 20 ohms x2, can I use 10W 100 ohms?
Why three separate grounding posts? It's all common, right?
I see a lot of guys do that. I don’t understand why.
I also don’t know why you would need more than one positive output if you use a rotary switch.
@@mikebond6328 it is just in case you gona need 2 or more GND, let say you are testng 2 devices at the same time. Perso I did not do that and instead replace the 2 additional GND, by -5v and -12v rails.
They can be usefull in case you need more that 12v... you can get 15v or 17v or even 24v!!
Check rail combo of PS for more info!!
Dr ZipZwan Thanks for the tip. I’m familiar with the dual power supply.
I have a consult. What is the voltage output of USB port. 5V 1AMP or which?
If you are using 40ohm dummy load resistor then 3w would have been fine
the highest rated binding posts I can find are 16A. ... don't you need one that can handle 30A?
Hot gluing power resistors? Prolly a bad idea.
Very nice choice of color! -- Relatively neutral without being boring. ;-)
Two little things I would say. Your vertical power switch is upside down, and you should make it VERY clear what the knob does.
You have at least three blown capacitors on the board ;)
How do you know lol...you have not even try it yet...
@Neodiy,c0m: You don't have to test them to know if they are blown. If you look at them main board you can see that they're popped.
And some blown capacitors can still work. They will just be noisier and won't work at 100%.
@@johnmacedo4483 I didn't see any of those in the video
سوىرىشبؤوي 😂انت عامل من نفسك عشان مش
@@طّأّرقِ-ن3ع i understand everything 😂
I did not understand everything. You made separate 3.3v, 5v and 12v outputs. Then what is this rotary switch for?
Tomasz Es to switch the outputs for the Amp/Voltmeter.
Ok. Thanks. :)
Hi very good tutorial and project! Can I ask you what is the purpose of the 10W 10Ohm Ceramic Resistor?
muflo71 If I have this correct, some power supplies (older?) require a constant load on the 5V rail for stability of the psu. The resistor(s) provide that. One possible alternative I ‘ve seen suggested for the load is a 5V led, which could be used as a power on indicator on the front panel, I would think.
Excelente ...But how do I discharge the capacitors without removing them from the circuit? God bless you.
Use screw driver and short the both ends of capacitor
Hi man, great video! Thanks.
I have a question. I made my ATX bench, and all the outputs are ok, but with a slight instability in tension, like +/- 0.02 volts, and when I want to use it to power my servomotors (controlled by Arduino), this slight instability makes my servos jitter very hard.
Do you know what can be de cause and/or solution to this?
Thanks in advance everyone!
Did you check the code once again. This happens due to several reasons, some of non-quality servos have;
gearing backlash which mean mechanical errors in gearing. so it causes for the failure in Encoder (lower feedback controller). Also, these stability happens if you don't use quality thick wires (excessive gains/ripples in pwm pulses). My advice is to upload the servo library back again and check the code specially delays. Check the ground connection of ATX ps highly recommended.
Hook up a capacitor between +ve & -ve of you servo (470uF or above)
@@LahisTechLT thank you for your answer.
The code is fine because if unplug the ATX from the breadboard and connect the Arduino's 5v instead it works like a charm.
The problem occurs only when I try to power the servos with my atx.
I connect the grounds together and all.
I've been told that this supplies, specially cheap ones, tend to be noisy.
I've been recommended to use a servo driver so I will probably purchase one.
Anyway I like the idea of putting a capacitor in parallel with the servos. I will definitely try that.
Do you think that putting one larger capacitor straight on the output of the power supply could work? So I can have one set up for all the servos?
Thank you for your time. I really appreciate it. I'm very new to this and I have no mentors yet.
I hope you have a great day!
@@PabloGnesutta Yeah, true a lot of ATX ps in the market are not properly made. specially the Chinese ones, i recommend to go for a HP one.
Yeah using a motor drive will also solve your issue to certain extend. L293D shield is best option for that. I have used it and works pretty perfect.
No. use filter capacitors individually per servo, it's more effective than a one big capacitor hook up to the main supply. I made a SCARA type robotic arm using servos and I fixed capacitors individually to get more smooth and precise movements along it's arms. (that's a 4 degree of freedom arm with 3 servos and one big encodered DC motor)
Thank you
@@LahisTechLT
Thank you for your response. I yet have to try the effect of individual capacitors on each servo, and I will this weak.
I solved the problem, after reading a lot, connecting the Power Supply's output to a 7805 voltage regulator with two capacitors and then connecting the regulator's output to the breadboard, it works like a charm now.
Thank you for your attention and willingness to answer =)
If anyone tries to implement the voltage regulator solution to this, have in mind that the regulator's output could fluctuate if it has no load connected to it. You can test it putting a simple resistor closing the circuit.
@@PabloGnesutta Happy to hear that. Thank you .
A superb job.well done sir.
Somebody get this guy a dremel
23444👎👎👎🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙💘💘💔💔
you have made a very nice job of this psu neat & tidy. i love the paint job,it really suits the unit. well done
telstar vision Thank you 👍🏼
I want to watch your first power supply which you show
Very nice
The power supply is capable of outputting very high currents, up to 30 amps. But by plugging your (10A max) ammeter into the common ground you just unnecessarily limited the whole thing to 10A. That connection also makes your load ground not totally identical to your supply ground, the ammeter's shunt is between them.
To me and my usages 10A max is enough. That's why I connected two load resistors to block over current.
Using this video I'm converting an ATX power supply to use with my LIPO balance charger, so instead of using the 10amp ammeter I'm using a similar unit rated at 50amp, which is more than enough for my application.
Hi Friend nice video but what is the point of the selector it wont show the real voltage you still need to select the correct voltage you need from the red plugs.