Nothing but first-fixing
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Like one of Nigel's war stories, this is long and boring but hey, it's a video showing elements of electrical first-fixing so if you were expecting scantily clad Bond girls and car chases, then you're on the wrong channel. Ordinarily, I might not have filmed this, but these are unusual times with the COVID lockdown in place.
Speaking of which, for those saying this is not essential work and I should be sat at home, it's down to a risk assessment: am I putting myself or others in danger working on a deserted site? I'd say not, and I have a responsibility to keep some money coming in so that there's a business left for us to eventually return to.
Timeline of events:
Monday 9th March - EICR undertaken (not filmed).
Thursday 19th March - Friday 20th March: opening footage of myself and Nigel starting on site.
Monday 23rd March - Nige was on leave, so I tackled some work on this site with Daleep who was with me from college on work experience. No footage was recorded on that day. In the evening, BoJo the Clown put the UK on lockdown.
Wednesday 25th March - Footage reopens with me on site on my own for that day.
Monday 30th March to Thursday 2nd April - The remaining first-fix completed over the course of these dates with many elements caught on camera.
The date/time of the dashcam footage shown near the end is incorrect.
I'll record second-fix when it eventually happens so that you have something to compare it all to.
Scope of works:
New socket accessories installed as required.
Mains powered smoke/heat alarms.
New radial circuit to serve kitchen socket outlets.
Relocation of existing cooker circuit.
New circuit to serve a wired intruder alarm with appropriate sensor and panel positions.
New downlight arrangement for kitchen.
New front/rear exterior lights.
Relocation of dining room pendant.
Kitchen undercabinet lighting.
New bathroom lighting and correction of an earth fault identified by the EICR.
Satellite cabling to the lounge, master bedroom and dining room.
Relocation of Freeview aerial drop.
New lighting position in the pantry.
Addition of a second (radial) socket circuit to cover some new socket positions (where extending the existing ring wasn't practicable).
Links:
Huel referral: If you want to try the stuff, then use one of the links below to save some pennies for yourself and for us. Both Nige and I have links, so choose whomever you like best... or whichever of us you find least objectionable....
David: huel.mention-m...
Nigel: huel.mention-m...
Nail puller: amzn.to/2C5604y [affiliate link]
A follow-up showing aspects of the second-fix on this site can be found here:
• Nothing but second fixing
Excellent! 1 Hour plus of entertainment from Ritchie and Eddie, this requires a cold pint.
Eddie has been skiving off for much of this one!
Just had to retire from doing electrical work as my mate who I worked with died suddenly, so thanks for the videos it brings back happy memories of our 25 years doing what you and Nige do. Hope your back together soon mate
Sorry to hear of the sad news Bob. All the best for your retirement.
"spraying water at electrical devices on the ceiling, all bets are off" - brilliant, i nearly spat coffee all over my laptop at that
Darren Cousins , i bet your laptop is not a ToughBook/Latitude Rugged Extreme.
@@DanielPinel nope, just a normal absorbent macbook
I hope it’s not rcd protected either 😂😂
Changing a twin socket to a single is an odd request. Seem to remember Thomas Nagy did a video mentioning Italians using fan isolators instead of light switches. Excellent videos thanks.
When I used to fit satellite systems quite often I would drop the tv aerial cable down to the main tv and run a return cable back up to the loft to feed a distribution amp, then drop a cable to the other tv locations. That way the uhf signal could be split after going through everything under the tv and fed to the dist amp, with the aid of a Powermid any of the under tv kit could be controlled from anywhere :)
Fitting single sockets is totally stupid especially in a kitchen where you want a double socket every meter where there are worktops ! Anywhere there is a tv point you need at least a double socket by it !
When I did my kitchen I put un switched single sockets under counter for the white goods with switches above, fuse only for the fridge and freezer, with neon for the washer and the dryer, the under counter sockets required marking out the units on the wall and positioning at the edge or in the next unit to clear the back of the white thing going in.
New spin-off series? “Nigels’ Furloughed Funtimes” - a reflection of ball-scratching techniques set against a backdrop of farts. 😎
It works better if you say it in an Alan Partridge voice.
Write this down Lynn, great idea for a new mini-series... 😂
Would be funny to see clips of Nigel sat in his garden drinking beer interspaced in between David on the tools doing the hard graft... 😂😂😂
My world is now upside down...been going to bed later and later and now I'm awake all night so this vid was a godsend just watched it at 4.30 in morning ......loved this one as always.....was good to see you showing some of the basics that we have to do to get the job done...you two keep safe and I look forward to the next one.....by the way loving the podcasts in the rusty back box.....
I'm surprised this didn't help with the insomnia Marky! And thanks for your RBB comments, I'm glad someone out there took the time to listen to that nonsense!
An easier way to do the cable metering is to weight the full reel, divide by 100 you then have weight per meter. Then once youve used some you just weigh it again then you know what weight has been used.
17:12 - LOVE the video editing. - I'm supposed to be revising for my Level 4 Design exam but I fool myself into thinking that watching your videos is sort of revising... Very entertaining, thanks! (Whoops! Better Subscribe now).
Great video, I have been watching a lot of them during the apocalypse lol
The extractor light and fan that they had fitted is a £40 job from toolstation. I only know because I have the same one / was here when we moved in, it works well enough but was sharing the neutral with the stairs lighting, live was on ground floor circuit doh 100 year old house :/
Love the dust mask ! If I'm getting down and dirty I strap a portable hoover to my left arm and it sucks most of the dust away. Makes cleanup a lot easier ! Suppose that's not an issue on first fix though.
Again awesome vid, please keep them coming !
I'm hooked on your Videos David ! A great mix of humour, technical know how, experience, and of course swearing ! I hope you and NIgel get back to work soon !
Cheers John. I'm still working, and have been for much of it, but Nigel hasn't been seen since the end of March. I suspect he's bouncing off his walls by now!
They loved that kind of block round here in the 50s, often using recycled bricks as ballast in the concrete, as they had plenty of debris after the war. I've worked on two places that had it but one was early 60s and had 100 mm of some kind of rigid insulation on the inside, so it wasn't nearly as bad. The other one was mid-50s vintage and had nothing but block. Had wind whistle through one of the sockets in an external wall but luckily replacing the windows (which had been planned all the way along) fixed that. When the plumber chased for his drains in the kitchen I looked into the chases and was like "Wait, I decommissioned all the kitchen wiring, what's that now?!? Turned out I was looking at the neighbour's socket wiring from behind...
BTW, zone 1 is immediately above the bath or shower (i.e. above zone 0) and zone 2 is 60 cm from zone 1. It's interesting to see how the climate affects simple thing like bathroom fittings - I've never had any issues with corrosion on bathroom lights in central Europe. You might get a bit of mist right after a shower but that should be gone within a few minutes, even without a fan.
Great stuff again. Informative but light hearted comedy included,keep the videos coming please.
More running through the cooker as we speak Wayne!
Some days are spent all day hiding cables so when the customer leaves in the morning it looks like a house and you then spend the day running cables under floors and put it back all nice and neat so when they get home it looks like a house again but with extra sockets. I really think some of them think the power magically gets from socket to socket and we've just spent the day loafing around charging by the hour rather than carefully dismantling and reassembling their house.
Quite right Andy, it's hard for people to appreciate what mechanics you've had to work out to get power from A to B. They just see the new sockets and have no idea what hoops had to be jumped through to get them there!
Hi Dave
Love your content., always brings a smile.
Your last job mirrors my last couple of weeks. I was lucky to have a couple of empty sites to work on but struggling to source materials through normal channels, my regular wholesaler closed doors. On my own no apprentice. Now completed and invoices thankfully paid. Now at home repairing the van, tidying the garage, working through the list of DIY chores from management and cutting the grass.
Worrying times.
Just hope things get half way back to normal sometime soon.
All the best everyone.
Thanks John. Same here, I've had some empty sites I can work with, but they and the materials are likely to dry up. Denmans is the only supplier that has closed its doors locally, but something will have to give soon. Stay safe!
Another top video. 👍🏼 I wouldn’t ever charge for half a reel of cable, while I appreciate your trying to be honest with the client & charging correctly, even a small business must make some profit & not just a day rate plus materials. Profit is required for repairs to your equipment, vehicle. jobs you don’t get which have took hours to quote, fuel, courses, etc;
Also the extractor fuse, were you just running the P/L through there or all the bathroom lighting including the S/L to the extractor.? Taking into consideration the amount of works required on that job, the age of the installation, etc; I would spoken to the client & given them the choice of a re-wire or repair. Explaining the benefits of a re-wiring can help, if there are problems in the future. I tested a cottage many years ago, a few problems but nothing too much, test results were very good. I gave the client a choice of repairs or re-wire, quoting for both. The client chose repairs, including bonds, consumer unit & new accessories throughout. I came to do work there a year later for a new kitchen I think, I pulled up the flooring within the bedroom, I’ve never seen anything like it, there was a huge amount of junction boxes. Wiring crushed by floor boards, wiring over the joists instead of through the joists. When I showed the client, he was a bit shocked. In a summary at the end of the report/periodic I clearly stated, even if the rectifications were carried out the client must take into consideration the age of the installation & what cannot be seen by the inspector. This clearly covered me in this situation as the client had in written form, a quote for both rectifications or re-wiring & verbally the benefits of re-wiring an old installation. Just something to possibly bear in mind when completing reports especially in a domestic situation where walls are to be plastered or there is major refurbishment.
I really like these feature length vids, always entertaining and always good to see your way of doing things!
There's the right way, the wrong way and my way. You might want to ignore the last two. Thanks for watching Thomas!
@@dsesuk I think you have a very pragmatic and sensible approach to your work, a quality job without unnecessary bollocks. Very refreshing!
@@Tomoose1985 Thanks for appreciating my bollocks Tom!
Keep the cable tongue in a length of trunking to keep it straight. That’s what I do with mine. 👍
Nice to see someone hard at work while I'm sat on my arse doing naff all. Great video Dave! I was challenged by my niceic inspector during an assessment visit as I had fitted an IP rated downlight over the bath and standard ones elsewhere in the outside zones. He said I should've fitted IP rated ones throughout the room as the fitting should be suitable for its environment. He mentioned steam and condensation.
Funny you should mention that, as I was attended an NICEIC TechTalk at Elex a few years ago where Tony Cable and Darren Staniforth asked the audience who fits IP rated lights and then questioned why they bothered! If outside the zone, then IP rating isn't really the issue, but suitability for the environment is. If my light is plastic or aluminium and moisture cannot easily get to live parts, then the light is no worse than the pullcord switch, shower isolator or extractor fan all located on the same ceiling. I'd argue the toss with my inspector on that, as there's nothing in BS7671 I've found about lighting outside of zones, and even the OSG shows a recessed luminaire to be outside of the zone even if sited over Zone 1 above 2.25m. I'm quite happy to be shown the error of my ways, but CPS inspectors sometimes haven't done their own homework!
How many non IP downlights have you been to in a bathroom, say GU10s, where you need to change the lamp and as you're turning the old lamp out you can hear the innards of the lamp holder disintegrating? The steam / condensation always seems to destroy them over time in my opinion so I tend to go with an IP rated downlight throughout the bathroom to account for the environment as opposed to the regulations.
Nigel sitting at home watching this pining and howling at the screen 😂
What installation method would you consider your new kitchen radial to adopt? I have always found 4mm 32a radials hard to achieve within a domestic situation due derating factors applied with regards to installation method.
I know, it's the argument about which is better, a 32A 2.5mm ring, or a 32A 4mm radial. I'd prefer the CPC in the radial to have a larger CSA, but I admit to not taking derating factors much into account when pulling in a short domestic circuit such as this.
I work in council properties and our spec for bungalows states ring finals shall be in 4mm twin and earth. Yes, 4mm rings due to installation method 101. If we eicr a bungalow with 2.5mm rings we have to derate to 20a. The showers are always in 10mm on a 32a cct, but if the cooker is in 6mm we have to check the loft and lift it over the insulation if necessary.
@@stevecraft00 So what do you guys run for a 9.5kw shower? 16mm on a 40a?
Happy easter guys. Time for a much deserved drink and watch this nice long episode. Cheers
Love that you only charge for what you have actually used - also, bloody clever way of working out 🙂
Thanks David-enjoyed the video, and thanks for your honesty/integrity ie-measuring what cable you used, so as not to over charge the customer.
You can’t put a price on having a good name, for basic honesty.
Thanks again
D.
Cheers David
@@dsesuk mate get some flexible drill bits ( versibit / eagles etc ) ..my ones are good for about 2.7m going in via the PowerPoint holes…..( lost a lot of drill bits using extensions….
There is something very satisfying about using physics to work out how much cable you’ve used.
I'm glad my GCSE Grade C in physics came good at last Chris!
Ooh, interesting opening credits, got me really excited and then... Argh! I saw "that other bearded guy!" Maybe it's a zombie movie...? ;-)
Oh right, Covid times... lol
Thank you for that David, an enjoyable hour an a quarter which went by quite quickly so that is a good sign. I like seeing how different people deal with the mechanical side of a job so you could have included more of it for my liking. I know you've mentioned that nail puller but would like a link for it if you get a minute.
Nice touches with tidying up Spaghetti Junction from the loft to the switch and the porch light, well done that man.
Thanks Olly, and I'm sorry some of the mechanics were missing. I think there's a link to the nail puller in the description, but Amazon (where I got mine from) were reporting they were out of stock when I looked. It's also featured in my Five Lesser Known Tools video from December 2018.
@@dsesuk Silly me once again for not reading all the description, of course being the constipated professional, sorry, consummate professional, you would put the details in. It is not just Amazon where it is sold out but every tool shop online.
Great video David (and Nigel). That nail puller is awesome, certainly takes away the pain of getting them out. Great way of measuring how much is left on the reel too, I always wondered how it was done, would be an absolute pain trying to measure it out manually. Looking forward to further videos when possible and hope you're keeping well.
stay safe and thanks for the flashback to Leamington , i remember a festival on the green i went to there back in 94 when i was at Coventry uni.
Thanks for watching Niall! My first visit to Leam was also back in '94 as my girlfriend at the time lived here.
34:47 The corners are a prescribed zone...? (Maybe this was a new addition in Amendment 2 (2022) - The Big Brown Book?)
Hello Dave - Great Video and Content as always, These are your best vids to watch. I feel for you with the time off, unless you work for yourself you cant understand the pressure to keep working. Look forward to your next one in 3-12 Months. GUTTED :)
Thanks again. And yes, if we survive then there will one day be a follow-up showing things hopefully looking a little prettier!
Hi David. Something I think the Aus/NZ wiring standards are missing is a table showing cable diameters and ohms per metre.very handy for costing. Since a majority of what you have mentioned in your videos seems identical on the UK wiring rules to ours.
Thanks for your videos. Keeping me entertained and amused in NZ under lockdown.
Kind regards
Paul
Thanks for watching Paul, and stay safe down there!
Great to see a true master at work. Loving the content. What’s the story on the hat? Is the M for master??
So those 8 blocks are pretty common down south, normally you don't have to chase them as you could shove draw tape or rods up the cavity, though you'll find yourself using side mounted fixings or some form of adhesive for the boxes the majority of the time.
Another great video David keep it up and lets hope we are all back to work soon!
Cheers Colin. Let's hope so!
I'd give anything to spend half a day in a loft putting someone's shit right! I currently have 3 open jobs awaiting my attention when we're allowed back to work. Great to see you on site again with the furloughed Nigel.
Cheers James. I'm back out on the van today: work at a deserted village hall out in the sticks!
Your the only spark I know that charges cable by the meter . Just charge for the drum any left over is a bonus .
I should, but I just don't feel comfortable doing it to other working stiffs.
@@dsesuk we call it petrol money down here in Dorset. It's the little extra bits that make our life easier in the long run.
@@wezzabryant7284 Very true old sport. It all adds up.
@@dsesuk
L
If he'd charged them for a complete drum then he should really leave the drum with them as that's what they've paid for and it belongs to them. I'd probably round it off to the nearest quarter drum (25m, 50m, 75m, 100m etc).
you can sharpen flat bits with a file you know ??? 😊
That was a nice surprise for a dull Easter Sunday evenings tv. In sure I had a similar discussion regards it ratings in a bathroom when I done my 18th edition. Although I have sunk a few today so can’t remember it fully.
1:10:33 Failed car-jacking attempt.
Hi David .
I am a sheety and do all the cad work now ,so am able to play your vids in the background. I like what you did when you measured the resistance to calc your cable on the reel. Out of fairness do you check the NEW reel for this before use ? Do you check any new reels for any sort of issue before installing ? Keep safe and SANE .regards Don
Thanks for watching Dan. That's a good point, I have never checked a new reel and I've always worked under the assumption that I'm getting what I pay for. Of course, measuring length through resistance isn't infallible - I'm going on my tester reporting correctly, the ambient temperature being around 20C and the figures given being accurate, but it serves as a best-method short of physically unspooling it. I'll have to try it now on a new reel of course to see how accurate it is!
Interesting comment on not bonding copper if the supply pipe is MDPE. On one hand, it could be argued that not bonding it is a risk if a live part then touches the pipes (e.g. rodent chews through cable which then touches pipes). On the other hand, bonding it could be considered a risk if it introduces an earth path where say a dodgy appliance is being used. Personally, I'd feel safer if all copper is bonded, but then again who knows how continous the copper may be where a plumber might have used a bit of plastic (and to be fair, some situations do warrant that). I would be interested to hear any thoughts!
I guess if the bonding cable had been there and had been routed within the building, then I would still have used it, but in this case it had been run from the front of the house to the back via surface mounting. Removing it was an aesthetic choice, but taking the time and expense to replace it wasn't worth it in my opinion. My cables have been routed away from the pipework, and even if I had decided to bond the copper, where does it stop? Does one cross-bond past plastic connectors or sections of plastic pipes to the next copper segment? Do you start bonding radiators that are fed from plastic pipes? Just because metalwork is in the room doesn't mean it has to be tied to the earthing system. Do it if it makes sense of if there is a perceived increased risk, but otherwise it doesn't make practical or financial sense. That's the way I see it!
Thanks for the video. it is surprising how many jobs are becoming essential, still working too :) . Enjoy the sun.
Revisited this as I wanted to remind myself about the madness of lockdown and those dark days.😮
Love the Ligeti at the start... implies trouble ahead on this first fix bonanza.
Hi David, loving the vids. Im not a spark but what make / model is that automatic cable stripping tool you are using right at the end of the vid when working out how much cable you used pls ? Its such a neat, simple action. I need one !!! thanks
Whats' the max Ohm's on an earth leak circuit test in England / Europe..? And do you have to do it with the earth stake detached ? It's 0.5 of an Ohm here.
Another awsome video. Thanks and Stay safe.🙏🏻❤️
Thank you, you too!
Great stuff David two slabs of special brew on the way to the prosperous north!
Surprised there wasn't glorious asbestos in this property, got to love cheap mans coke
Cheers for the Video David, i quite enjoyed it and as seems to be a theme with your videos i learned some thing new. Nice one.
Thanks for watching!
So glad I am not the only one who gets my moral compass from adverts
Thanks for the video. Is it always best to use 4mm for the kitchen?
I would for a small domestic like this. A simple, short 4mm radial. You have to watch de-rating factors though.
@@dsesuk Thanks for the reply. Most TH-camrs do not bother.
Why the F---- did we not question this situation before now? I was past the end of my working life, but still doing bits! And were led down this b---s--- route. Nice to see you are still going (again on your own) cheers 76year old f--t
Thanks for some entertainment on a dreary locked in Easter Sunday.......I had a nice dream during my after dinner nap earlier that I was sitting in my local chin wagging with the lads and downing pint after pint of ice cold nectar🍺🍺🍺 , roll on the good times coming back .
Cheers David and Nigel and stay safe.
Thanks as always, and hopefully the days of chinwagging and beer will return soon enough!
"Before times ... " ?
I stay at home since they talk about it mid january. Now we have near Sonkran, middle of April and Easter weekend!
Why do you think that with around 83'000'000'000 german people in Germany have so a less dead and die rateting? 😧😞
I think all I can do is to carry on as safely and as best as I can like everyone else.
David, im still scratching my head on my next mft, this may be a good time for you to do a review??
Brilliant video David...Hope to see more soon 👍 cheers
Thanks Matt. More is in the works.
A JBE feel to this video.
I actually found it very interesting, not dull in the slightest. I do wonder though, since they are an Italian couple, wouldn't it have made it more homely to leave the electrical bodges and rust in place?
Haha! You could be right, from what I've seen on my European travels, they don't know what a spirit level is!
Hi David. Thanks for the detail on your installation methods and telling us why you chose them. What label maker have you used in this video? - sorry if you’ve already covered this. I can’t find any information on your channel. Maybe a review of what gadgets you have and how you rate them would keep us entertained during “this current situation “. Thanks, and stay safe! 🙂
Thanks Richard. It's the Brother E550W, a video from 2018 can be found here: th-cam.com/video/r4KY_pCvGEQ/w-d-xo.html
Can you guys please upload a minimum of one-hour everyday - it makes isolation a lot more bearable !
My friend, we're like a bottle of Blue Nun. Seems like a good idea during the evening, but too much of it and you wake up with a splitting headache the next day.
handily the yellow bucket was sitting there ready to catch the tailings from the forgotten chase
Thanks Dave & Nigel
David i have just thought on that, continental Europe they only typically have in a outlets location in any given room. A single 2 round pin outlet.
As they are Italians this would make sense as that will be what they'll be use to.
Thats only Italy. And Italian electrics are cheap cack.
Must say working alone can be quite enjoyable at times , hope nigel enjoys his rest bite and hope you get the time for a beer in the garden whilst the sun still shine , take care be safe and thanks for another interesting vid 👍
Have you at anytime done a vid of testing with regards to what results you should be getting and explanations as to why etc if not getting expected results, I've strolled in your vids but not come across any 🤔 stay safe 👍
love this video, nothing like a long project to follow along with
Crikey Luke, things must be getting desperate!
@@dsesuk Cant wait for Part 2, if were all still here!
Hi Nice tidy up of lighting circuit, I do have a question for you. Do you know what makes the Hagar JO3 maintenance free from the round junction box that was in the loft, the only thing that looks different is the shape?
It's the push-fit connectors in the 803 Stuart, they're spring loaded to provide a positive pressure on the copper wire whereas a screw connector can work itself loose over time.
always wondered how you would measure if it was me I would reel out and manually measure lol
work smarter not harder
Hi David, many thanks for the videos, great content with entertainment and amusement in abundance. The water pieps in the kitchen, i understand that its a plastic supply coming in and also 18th edition states you dont need to protect but what would happen if a live conductor touched any part of those metal pipes ?.
Thanks for watching. The trouble with water pipes is that these days they don't form a continuous network of copper - sections being insulated with plastic push-fit connectors or pipes. At what point then do you stop bonding? 16th Edition would have had you cross bonding everything under the sun, but the rise in the use of plastic for water makes it impractical. If there was a bonding cable already there and installed within the fabric of the building, then I'd probably still use it for the bit of copper that's left, but the bonding cable on site had been surface mounted from the front of the house to the rear making it unsightly. Removing it is a no-brainer for the aesthetics, but I don't see the point of going to the expense and effort of pulling in a new earth wire within the structure of the house. There is a risk that a live wire will energise the metalwork if in contact, but that is minimised by ensuring my cables end up routed away from the pipework.
@@dsesuk Hi David , whats you view on plastic fitting used for isolation of metal water pipe going outside for garden tap for example, so as not to export earth potential outside. @14:15 looks like outside tap going out under kitchen window. wasn,t somthing in regs about this. Was this part of your consideration not to bond ?
Nice one, David. I would have liked to have seen what was under that small piece of board with the couple of screws in it in the attic.
Ah, yes. As it turned out, there was a dryline box mounted in the bathroom ceiling for the shower isolator, but I guess it had come loose as someone had constructed some woodwork around the rear of it and screwed the dryline to it. I don't know why the basic insulation was left outside the dryline; it was deep enough to accommodate the wiring so I just re-terminated it.
Thanks for the quick reply, David.
Apologies David, just refined my search and low and behold I found your answer to the same question 4 days ago !! what a muppet ! I should have done that 1st. apologies. Keep the vids coming. They are fantastic
No worries Leighton, I'm glad you got the answer!
Stay safe chaps! It’d be boring without the two of you! At least you can work on sites with nobody in them, I work in a large factory and I have to work because I’m essential... allegedly... company will have its pound of flesh!
Sorry to hear you're still working at risk. I hope you stay safe!
David Savery Electrical Services They have taken steps like no longer having shift hand overs and providing hand sanitiser bottles around the place but they are lacking, I mean I bring my own wipes in to clean the keyboard, mouse and covers on the machine! They should be doing all that tbh. I work 3 12 hr night shifts a week so at least I’m only in 3 days a week...
Nice work on that property btw. Proper job from a reaaaaaaaaal boy!
Good of you to 'knock one out' David whilst everyone's on lock down, fair play to you sir.
Where is the fuse with regard to that isolator? I ask as depending on the order of fusing and supply into the bathroom there may still be an unfused switched line to the fan. This comment is pedantic - but are those fused fan isolators fit for purpose, should they have two 3a fuses or can we just forget them and rely on the 6a mcb? great videos. Keep it up. Thank you.
My take on it used to be that the fuse should be on the permie line as that what powers the PCB, while the switched line was just a trigger, however if you look at the instructions for fans that require fuses, they always have a 3A on the supply line which then splits off for the switched line downstream so that the fuse covers both. Anyway, these days I prefer humidistat fans where no switched line is used. On this one, because the whole bally lot got re-wired, I was able to have the fuse cover both. It comes out of the fuse module and into the isolator where it goes from the switched side of the iso to the permie on the fan. From the non-switched side, it goes to the light switch. From the switched side of the light switch, it goes back to the isolator, the output of which goes to the switched input on the fan. It's easier to draw than explain, but it means the fan and light are independent (in that the fan can be switched off without losing the light), although both are protected by the fuse. And yes, it is ridiculous, a flippin' fan should be made to run off a 6A circuit just like any light fitting or smoke alarm. If Elex is on in September, I'll be getting mouthy with a few fan manufacturers! I might make a video about this too if I get time!
The dynamic duo are back. X-D
One of us is anyway....
Hi David with the fused fan isolator do you fuse both the switched line and the permanent live for the fan or just the permanent
?
According to the instructions on the likes of Xpelair, they want the fuse on the permie coming in, and for the switched line to come off that downstream of the fuse (i.e. the fuse covers both connections). Of course, if they just made fans that could sit on 6A lighting circuits, this nonsense wouldn't be needed.
Can I ask what's have you put on the corner of sheaving ... also on the flex to cooker hood it seems?
We use a quick setting cement to cover vulnerable areas or to provide structure where the wall is brittle and accessories cannot otherwise be secured properly.
So i've run Cat5E/Cat6 network cable around the house on several occasions. At every meter along the cable they print how many meters are remaining in the box. This makes it really easy to measure it out, and to know if you have enough for the next run you are about to start. Do they not do this with T&E electrical cable too? Seems like you're missing out on a really handy feature.
It's the same with SWA and SY cable; both usually metre-marked, but not on T&E for some reason!
Full 4 week lockdown in New Zealand here, nothing except the supermarkets, petrol station and chemists/doctors is open. I still surprised that the UK cable does not have meterage markings on them. I'm in New Zealand and that is the standard on most mains cabling and most ELV Less than 50v cabling. Do you guys gave meterage on your Cat5 and Cat6, we do here?
Hi Mikey. We have markings on data and SWA cables. Really not sure why not on the standard power cables. Stay safe in the lockdown!
I also spend way too much of eating out a month. A hand fulls of nuts, of course not salted, healthy, cheap and it'll keep you going until home time.
Way too much here too. Can be £50 a week when I’m enjoying the high street Portuguese cafe.
@@LAsparkTVWireTestLimited Before C19 I was spending an average of €400 on eating out, a couple of curries for the 3 of us, and we'd eat out over the weekend, sometime B,D and Tea. That's the same amount we spend on food for a month at home including cleaning products etc. I don't really miss it but until you break it down that's quite a bit of cash. I'm such I could take food to work and spend a lot less maybe €200 or something but it's part of our existence I guess.
you can use yellow tongue here in oz its used to join osb floor boards makes a makeshift cable puller
Ah, yes, I recall I've seen that on someone else's video somewhere.
@@dsesuk i believe you can buy it standalone usually on the end of a bunnings isle inside a tube where they congregate (bunnings here is like home depot or lowes not sure of the UK equivalent hardware chain)
Sit out in the sunshine except for me, and me.
That's a Nifty calculation at the end that I never thought to do, I wonder if it's that consistent in the us where we spell meter wrong? Apologies I'm using speech to text.
Fantastic video as normal....👌
At S1 E2 of the walking dead? Wondering if there was a spark working on his own in a house somewhere thinking I’ll just carry on as normal?
When is Nigel getting his own channel, he's clearly the talent in this operation. You'd better watch out, I've heard radio 2 are looking for a new afternoon presenter. What would you do without him?
Does annoy me when people don't use insulated ducts inside lofts.
Nice one Dave need a bit of lock down viewing 🤓
Cheers Derek!
Nice Vid Dave....I could tell ya missed Nige really...😂😂. Think you need to consider getting the old Metabo wall chaser and extractor to save yourself the dust cloud. What are those t&e cable strippers you are using at the end of the video?...they look well handy and neat. 👍🏻👍🏻
We have a chaser with vacuum attachment, but it was in the storage unit and I'm limiting where I go, so nothing else for it but to get down and dusty! I'll see if I can get a link to the Ideal strippers or the Twin & Earth set shown and I'll update the description later!
Seems a shame Nigel had to go but some hard decisions are required in these difficult times.
Single socket selection is odd I can't think why that would be a thing, but the customer is always Destra.
I liked this video a lot, good to see how the bathroom fan /light junk was sorted out too.
One question which I have been chatting about to other Sparks is light switches in bathrooms, can they go in providing they are outside the Danger zone, as it were ?
Thoughts please
I'm not aware of any regs against wall switches in bathrooms, it just appears to be not the done thing. Kitchens, utility rooms and W/C's see the potential for people to operate switches with wet hands, so I'd assume a plastic wall switch sensibly placed in a bathroom wouldn't be a concern. I certainly wouldn't class such as a C1/2/3 on an EICR, but by the same token, I wouldn't install in that way on a refurb as it goes against convention.
@@dsesuk
Thanks David
This came up with a Kitchen fitter guy telling me it wasn't allowed, which didn't quite ring true in my ear.
After some Regs reading and some discussion with other Electrical guys, there were more opinions than I care to list.
I really just didn't want to see the Customer getting a horrible pull cord installed, because that was convenient for the Kitchen fitter who was doing all the work.
Incidentally the door facings outside the bathroom door were butted together in what is, admittedly a small terraced house, but just inside the door was a suitable location on a wall, into an airing cupboard. It was over 2.5m from the bath and sink so the occupant could never have reached it from the bath.
Anyway I would always fit a switch outside a bathroom, as its more practical.
I just thought it was interesting to get a second opinion from a Pro like your good self.
Mohammed Nigel we love you to bits😎😎
Dave, these Egg Box walls, how do you deal with them? I've got a light switch to move upstairs and I was hoping for a nice easy stud but it turns out I've got walls made out of Paramount partitions. What the best way to get the cable through from the top? Its a mid '90s build so I'm a bit surprised its got this stuff. Cheers
I usually cut open the hole for the new dryline box, then use a stiff rod (the black ones in the SuperRod sets) to ram upwards and through the cardboard partitions. It's not elegant, but it usually works!
@@dsesuk Cheers, I'll add it to my ever growing list of COVID jobs🙄 and give it a go. Stay safe!
Does all domestic wiring have to be trunked in metal channels as I see in the kitchen..?
No, the capping can be plastic or steel and is merely there to protect the cables from the plastering. It does not meet the requirements for mechanical protection as it isn't earthed and won't stop a nail or screw from penetrating, but the 'prescribed zone' horizontally/vertically from the accessory indicates where it is unsafe to drill. If the walls were being overboarded, we could have clipped the naked cables to the wall without any covering.
Shotgun... shotgun... shotgun... what the hell is he on about???... oh.. you mean Siamese coax cable!
Where did you get the shiner from, or am I seeing things..?
A question... It looks like your're using an appleby dry lining box there and I wondered what thickness of wall it will hold into? I've got some over-plastered lathe and plaster walls and wondered if they will hold?
I do rate the Appleby David, but they struggle with even two-layers of plasterboard. You may be better off with something else. Is there any structure behind to affix a deep knockout box to?
@@dsesuk hey David, thanks for the reply unfortunately not much structure. Lathes are in pretty bad condition both sides with the nibs broken so the plaster isn't so sound. Think I'll probably end up pulling some out and boarding between the studs. While I'm in there I can put some noggins in to fix the boxes to. Considered trying to fix sideways into the stud but doesn't give much support on a double box. SWMBO will probably complain... every job I start on this house seems to multiply. Built on 1928 and 92 years of bodgers has left its mark. 🤣
Cheers again.
I'm a bit curious about the fused fan switch because we don't have that regulation here in Ireland its just a 3 pole switch here, is there one fuse for the constant live and another for the switch line or does the one fuse some how protect them both its probably a silly question but I can't work it out.
It's not a regulation Paul, at least, not outside of Regulation 134.1.1 about compliance with manufacturer instructions, but many fan manufacturers state in their installation instructions that their product must be protected by a 3A fuse or be installed on a circuit rated at 5A or less, so installing their product on a 6A lighting circuit with no fusing down puts the installer foul of reg 134.1.1 and, in the event that the thing is faulty and catches fire, possibly absolves the manufacturer of responsibility as they can claim it was improperly fitted. Personally, I think it's ridiculous that products made to sit (usually) on a 6A lighting circuit aren't fully rated for that circuit out of the box. As for the fuse in this case, well it's on the permanent line, not the switched line. I figure the permie is what powers the PCB, the switch just acting as a trigger for it, but others aren't so sure. It's yet *another* situation where manufacturers cut corners and leave it to the installers to second-guess and argue among themselves as to how it should be done.
@@dsesuk your right its manufacturers covering there ass asking for a 3 amp fuse when they know its not that practical fitting one on a timer fan. In Ireland all bath room lighting circuits must have there own individual RCBO so that there is less chance of nuisance tripping so they should make a rcbo rated at 3 or 4 amps or maybe they do I have never seen one.
David Savery Electrical Services Hi you make a bit of a big deal about adherence to MI in this and other vids especially with respect to fans and fusing but I’d be surprised if the diagram for the fan or instructions state it’s OK to down fuse only the perm and not switched live which begs the question why bother like 99% of other electrical installers do not ?
Example
www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/pdfs/Xpelair%20Simply%20Silent%20DX100%20Fan%20-%20Installation%20Guide.pdf
@@paulbrown9175 Something like this ? www.sonepar.cz/frbm6-b2-1n-003-a
The nail puller looks like a nice bit of kit.
It's a pretty tasty tool Alvin. If you can still find them that is!
Brilliant mate keep up the good work mate👍
Ta Tom!
I wonder if you caught an attempted carjacking, keep the footage.
I don't see how it can be a carjacking when he was going for the rear passenger-side door. It looks more likely that it was a mis-timed attempt at being picked up. The driver wasn't aware they were there and started to pull away when the lights went green. Notice how he keeps walking down the road afterwards and that the car pulls over at the same side of the road later on too.
Possibly, hope it was but looked abit shady to me