MK5 GTI Front Wheel Bearing DIY
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- We show you how to install a front wheel bearing on a MK5 GTI. While this video was shot on a MK5 GTI, it applies to almost all MK5 and MK6 models vehicle. See below for application info.
Front Wheel Bearing Installed in this Video
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Triple Square Set
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Front Wheel Bearing (Same as OEM but Cheaper)
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Applications for this part
Audi Audi A3 8P 2009-2013
Audi Audi TT MK2 2007-2014
Audi Audi TTS 2009-2014
Volkswagen 2006-2009 MK5 Rabbit
Volkswagen 2009 Sportwagen
Volkswagen 2009-2012 CC
Volkswagen 2010-2014 Sportwagen
Volkswagen 2013-Current CC
Volkswagen B6 Passat 2006-2010
Volkswagen MK5 GTI 2006-2009
Volkswagen MK5 Jetta 2005.5-2010
Volkswagen MK5 R32
Volkswagen MK6 GTI 2010-2014
Volkswagen MK6 Golf 2010-2014
Volkswagen MK6 Golf R
Volkswagen VW Eos Parts
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Cornelius NC 28031
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VW AUDI Specialty Repair Kent Ohio
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Front Wheel Bearing Installed in this Video - We appreciate your Support and Purchases! -
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Triple Square Set
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Fairly good DIY. One can use it, but make some adjustments
- Hit between the bolts on the brake disc to loosen the rust and remove, not the brake pad contact surface
- scribe the control arm so the ball joint nuts can be aligned with these witness marks
- use some penetrating oil on the hub to remove easier and with less hammer action
- clean the rust on the inside before the new hub is installed. Add some anti-seize
- Torque the wheels in a star pattern, never two bolts that are next to each other
really great additional comments, I notice that not many people use Penetrating oil and clean up the bearing surfaces then add a slight amount of never seize, if you live in any area where there is a potential for salt to be thrown down on the roads you have to do this. Also, I didn't see the part where the ABS sensor was removed, if you have a northern car and you are doing this job, you'll likely want to get a spare ABS sensor for the hub, you're probably gonna break it upon removal. For these bearings you don't need to replace the hub as well, you can separate it from the bearing with a press, then press in the new bearing into that hub and install. The knuckle mating surfaces should be a clean as possible. Once installed, clean the old hub surface and never seize it for easy removal of the rotor next time
What's the reason for scribing/aligning the control arm w/ the ball joint nuts?
@@mattborman5780 When the ball joint is reinstalled if the scribing is done you can align the marks. This ensures the ball joint sits exactly where it was before you took it apart and therefore less chance you'd need an alignment. If you don't reinstall exactly how it was you might be changing the geometry at the front axles
@@alexsquared1460 Appreciate it - thanks
Don't forget to change the cv boot mate 😀 it's about time 😉
You are literally smooshing a fresh hub into rust. Hit the inside with a wire wheel and add some anti sieze!!!
Was going to say the same thing. Next guy would’ve thanked him!
Add some anti-seize. Makes the next time that much easier.
2008 vw rabbit 2.5 Did the passenger side in just over an hour on jack stands, including smoke break. Didn't have to touch the ball joint at all. With the suspension fully relaxed, and turning the steering wheel fully had plenty of room to pull hub mounting bolts (12mm tripple square). Car is our winter rat and completely rusted. Didn't even attempt to unscrew the hub bolts without Heating the hub on the outside in the 4 spots. Propane torch, 1.5min each, came right out.
Be sure to blow out the heads of the 12mm tripple square with compressed air, and tap the bit in FULLY to the head to assure as deep a seat as you can.
I did pads at the same time. Did a jetta years ago the same way.
Try doing it without pulling the ball joint nuts, should be A LOT easier and faster.
Wow, you couldnt even clean out the rust from the hub.
i agree thats what im trying to say lol
@@superkari28 what a savage
Time = money :D
Cleaning rust is not in his job description🤷♂️ nor was is tough in his automotive mechanic school.
This is a good step by step video I just hate how no anti seize is used or any cleaning of the hub assembly
From my experience I’ve found that if you remove the tie rod castle nut and pop it out it’s easier to move the stub axle to get the cv shaft out
I like this A lot My front hubs were rusted solid. Using penetrating fluid overnight did the trick. Needed a wire brush to properly clean all the rust away
Thanks for the torque specs.
What size was the axle bolt? 24 or 27 ?
Great DIY. Thanks so much for creating these DIY videos! Helps us a lot.
Good video, very informative. Anyone know how much more difficult replacing a front wheel bearing is if you only have axle stands?
i was waiting for the triple square bolts to strip out
Hell yeah that just happened to me
This was great, thanks. Don't know who Paul is but I thought you were great man.
Lol @ how easy that axle bolt came off.....it was either pre-loosened recently or has been replaced and under torqued - actually it's been replaced as MK5's had the older hex bolt from factory and not the newer 12 point.
Usually those axle bolts are on so tight you have to put a steel pipe on the end of your breaker bar and jump up and down on it and hope to god the head on your breaker doesn't shatter.
blower I broke my breaker bar and damaged my impact gun trying to get it out 🤬🤣😂
Eventually used a socket and old exhaust pipe to break it free 🙈
A 6 foot scaffold pole slid over a breaker bar works. The driveshaft bolt on this particular vehicle was certainly under torqued. The later vehicles have 12 point bolts so it is essential to use a bi-hex socket and not a 6 point socket.
Excellent step by step. Will be doing both wheel bearings on my mk5 shortly
This looks alot easier then I was expecting nice will give it a go
Thanks for well guiding video👍
Thanks for the tutorial. Very helpful. Was able to replace both front hubs fairly easily.
Thank you guys for actually getting decent lighting and having the cameras show those 2 bolts.
I tend to get a single knock sound around my front right wheel when I am reversing with full lock steering to the right. Sometimes when driving forward up a ramp with full lock steering to the right, I get a similar knock sound as well. Is this a wheel bearing failure?
My lower control arms, ball joints, tie rods, end links, ARBs, driveshafts, coilovers, top strut mounts are all relatively new (
The dead-blow to remove the rusted wheel bearing was funny, lol. Southerners have no clue with rust (lucky bastards). A guy from up north is immediately grabbing a long barrel air hammer or 4lb+ hammer, then the slide hammer if needed. Also, the hub should have been cleaned and a corrosion inhibitor applied prior to the new bearing...but i realize this is not the norm wrenching in NC like it is up in the northern states.
lol same, I had a good chuckle at "this car is from northern Virginia, so it's seen some salty winters". A car from Virginia sold in NY would be considered "mint" and "rust free" in comparison.
I am probably going to be needing this video soon. Thanks!
I appreciate the walkhrough, thank you.
axle needs a new boot too
Loosen axle bolt 27mm while on ground
Remove brake caliper bolts 21mm
Pull caliper off don't let it hang
Remove Rotor T30 Torx, pound it off with hammer
Remove Axle Bolt
Pull off ball joint nuts 16mm
Pull down the control and remove axle out of spindle
Remove triple square 12mm
Remove wheel bearing/hub assembly with hammer if needed
Install new wheel bearing with new 12mm bolts on backside
Slide axle through new wheel bearing/hub & thread in new axle bolt hand tight
Install the rotor with screw
Insert control arm to ball joint, tighten nuts to 60 NM Torque
install the caliper spread pads if needed, pump brakes
Tighten 21mm brake caliper bolts
Torque axle to 70 NM
Torque the wheels to spec
Finally torque Axle bolt remaining 90 degrees
Install center cap
Done!
NAK, total spot on describtion!!
Great job...
Would like to see more...
I prefer to disconnect the bottom balljoint by the main nut and not the three nuts/bolts in the lower arm as there can be enough movement there to throw out the tracking. I had this happen on my MK3 GTi.
Was the noise on this particular wheel bearing only when the vehicle was loaded on the passenger side or was it a constant noise? Have a rotational noise on my Mk5. Haven't had time to put in the air to double check if there is play or not. Great video by the way.
Good practice to clean rust out if hub and was it just me did it nerd a cv boot aswel
You did a good job!
had to add those three nuts back on the ball joint once the 4 bearing bolts are out so you can have stabilization when hitting with a punch from the back
Need to do this soon...
When you removed those three ball joint nuts, did the GTI car need an alignment after?
Axle bolt is a 24mm 12 point correct?
Correct!
No need to smack the new bearing in place if you clean out the rust with some sandpaper, thats a sure way to ruin the new bearing.
Screw in wheel bolts to draw hub off of carrier
What size is the triple square bolt?
These are not the same as torx right?
12mm triple square is not a torx?
Perfect
Way to smack the rotor with a hammer lol 😂
Is this the same procedure for an 08 Rabbit?
Would this be the same as 2011 polo gti?
Looks like break shields are installed left on right side?? !
false
I just gotta ask. You got the big Milwaukee impact, but you choose to use the breaker bar instead. How come?
André Baumgartner pretty sure humble mechanic says you shouldn’t use an impact on those main axle bolts
*** FYI: The 'non-ribbed 12 point axel bolt' and 'hexagon axel bolt' are torqued at 200 Nm (147 ft lb). Then, when the car is on the ground, +180 degrees ***
I was confused on this spec. until I realized there are 3 different drive axel bolts for this suspension through Audi/ VW: Ribbed 12 point, Non-ribbed 12 point, and Hexagon.
That's what I was wondering . My original is 27 mm hex the new one is 24mm 12 point no ribs. They are both 8.8 hardness . 200N/m +180 degree sims to much for me . My uncle was an old mechanic and he was telling me loose bearing do not brake overtighten one will - so I don't know witch speck to choose :)
@@r.t.7925 You also don’t want that bolt to back itself out! Those bolts and specs were engineered to be set that tight. I’ve replaced them 6 times for various reasons ad torqued them all to 147 ft lb + 180* and have never had an issue.
@@joshuam7552 Ok ,so I found out there are 3 type bolts for that vehicle 27mm hex(thr original + a tick washer) , 24mm 12 point with ribs and 24 mm 12 point with flat surface on the back. The lower torque is on the one with ribs . The other two are the same. I did it today 24 mm 12 point flat(that's the one the dealer has) Did 200N/m + 90 degree (could not do 180 with 24 inch breaker bar )
@@r.t.7925 ooooohhhh, you didn’t know which torque spec was for which bolt. My bad dude, I misunderstood and misread your question. I’m so sorry about. Yes, the lower torqued bolt is the ribbed bolt and the smooth surfaced bolts are the higher spec, as you said. Sorry again.
@@r.t.7925 Add a breaker bar tube/ extension to your 24” beaker bar. I usually have to stand on the bar, bracing myself with the car and then bounce my weight to move the bar tighter. Seems sketchy, but the breaker bar should not break (I use a cheap Harbor Freight breaker bar). For the breaker bar tube extension, ill use the floor jack handle and stick it in the end of the breaker bar for extra leverage. Hope that helps!
How much labor time is involved in replacing a wheel bearing? I was quoted 500 parts and labor to replace one on my 13 VW CC
The oem part is about 300cad after tax. The labour is about 2hr max. average shop rate is $90. It should've been about 480cad. You could save some money by doing it yourself. It's not hard
Is this the same as a mk4
Should have cleaned the rust!!! Just the fact you overlooked that shows your not a very good technician. Your vid is very helpful though to many.
Does this apply to Audi A3 8p pre-facelift (2006-2008)? I have an a3 3.2
Yes its very similar Same Suspension Setup etc
what tool and size do you need to get the axle bolt off?
Its a 27mm on my jetta mk5 the bolt is normal 6 point not sure why here it is 12
@@shanetumbles2758 my 2015 is 12 points
I've had to do this twice in the last year, same side. I've torqued the axle bolt to spec and it keeps backing out, causing the bearing to go bad. I'm out of ideas, I used a new bolt btw.
See my torque spec. comment. There are three different bolts with different torque specifications. It may not be torqued correctly.
What size and type of socket for the axle bolt?
24mm 12 point
He starts removing the 3 ball joint nuts and I'm like oh no there goes the alignment.
Adi Shqipe relax, no alignment is needed after ball joint removal. Off and On it goes in exactly the same spot.
@@olegk455 can’t you just go by the dirt circles to place the nuts back in the same exact place?
@@auxmike718 You sure can but the question remains: Why?
Just bolt it back up and its good to go. People tend to over think these things. There simply isn't enough movement there to affect the alignment.
@@olegk455 but this man removed the lower ball joint bolts so he probably messed with the camber u less he put it back on exactly how it was.
@@dumbeezy5480 I understand this and have done it numerous times. The ball joint goes in the exact same mounting holes, which are round and a tight fit, on the lower control arm, so no alignment is needed because literally nothing changed geometry wise.
Triple square stripped to all hell, help
It's never that easy to remove the caliper holding bolt!
I don't want you work on my car
Hammering on a rotor that way is never good. Most of the time you might get away with it but it's poor technique. Use the peen end of a machinest's hammer on the hub part of the rotor.
Buy WD40 anti-Rust spray
clean the rust :(
new hub, but no time to remove the rust first...sorry, thumbs down!!!