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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2012
- I got a few PMs and emails requesting for information regarding reloading ammo for competition and have been wanting to make this video everytime I walk into my reloading room. Never got to do it but this time, I had a few hours to burn so brought my camera out and recorded everything I did.
In this video I show you my lenghty process of reloading 38 Super Comp ammunition for my USPSA Open Division race gun. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thank you for sharing great info, just started loading with the Xl750.
That's a great day to watch fast moving video. Really enjoyed your upbeat way of getting the job done. Thanks.
I'm glad I found your channel, you know your stuff bud, keep up the good work.
I have been using a 550 for half a year now, but I still enjoyed watching your video. Well done.
Great info! thanks for taking the time to do the vid. :)
Your videos are awesome man! I am getting started in the sport and your videos are great to learn from!
Thanks! let me know what else you'd like to see.
Josh G gave me the idea to use a baking sheet for lubing cases. Helps cut down on the mess and makes it easier to swish them around. Great video Loke!
Great video mate. After using the Lee Pro 1000 reloader for a while I recently purchased the Dillon XL650 and the loading time has gone from 200-300rph to 800-900rph. I also purchased the Frankford Arsenal Vibra Prime Automatic primer Tube and now loading the primers takes around 15 seconds to load. Love your vids keep them coming.
great video. I can't believe I just found your channel. Subscribed!
Great video!
Very informative I’m new to reloading ,so I’m scouring TH-cam ….keep up the good wprk
Thanks!! and for the pointers too!
Nice video!
I really like your video. Very comprehensive.. With respect to the lead and smokiness. The smoke actually originates from the wax lubricant that manufacturers apply to their hard cast bullets. Some larger calibers actually have a was ring. With respect to the disc at the base of the bullet, it is actually there to protect the lead at base of the core from over expanding when fired with higher case loads. It has no effects on smoking, but great for accuracy:)
Thanks!! I've moved to a 650 now which is even sweeter :)
They are! I love shiny rounds, feeds good in my gun too. I use corn cob but you're right, it's dusty. Good point about using dryer sheets. I got to try it.
gunrobot have you ever tried Rice instead of corn cob?
That's a good idea :) I should try that.
I love using hornady one shot case lube, it's aerosol, doesn't need to be cleaned off and does a great job at making the resizing process easier.
Great video! Hey just for your info, I did some experimentation with the powder hopper filled to different levels and it definitely does change depending on the level of powder in the hopper. I never had it change more than .1 grain which isn't much to squabble over but nevertheless it is something. What I do is put two lines on the hopper with a sharpie about 1/2" apart and I keep the powder level between the lines. This is enough to do 50-100 rounds depending on how much powder you are using. Some may not want to stop loading that often for .1 grain but it doesn't bother me so I do. It only takes a few seconds. What I found in my experimenting was the weight of the charge didn't necessarily drop with the less weight (or powder) in the hopper. What it did was drop .1 grain then return to the original charge, drop .1 grain, return to the original charge back and forth as the powder level dropped in the hopper until it hit a certain level, maybe 1 inch from the bottom where it dropped .1 grain and stayed there. So there's my results, do what you want with them. Happy shooting! Oh, I have a Dillon 550 as well.
Nice!! Thanks for the info. definitely something to think about. I'll definitely make sure I measure the charge everytime I change hoppers. just to be sure.
Probably a good thing to do. Seeing how you do certain things, I think you're concerned with the quality of your ammo as am I. I have a tendency to be a little finicky or anal if you will about reloading My standards for my ammo is it must look better than factory ammo and be better than factory ammo. I'd guess you're the same way, you have all the symptoms lol.
Nice video
Nice job. /John
I just picked up a 38 Super and definitely want to reload the rounds. I'm not ANY kind of competition shooter but this has been the most informative video I've found on the subject. As I'm not really trying to compete, what what you suggest as a good grain weight of powder to just have as a fun plinker that won't break the bank? Thanks in advance! Great video!
Thanks for watching! I would suggest you look at the reloading manuals for 38super for you powder and dial back until your cycling is consistent.
I just recently got a 650 from dillon and I know you upgraded to the 650 yourself but for shooting in the major groups how do you keep the powder from spilling when it's loaded that high in the case especially when it's auto indexing on the 650?
yes I believe they're the same dies. I use the .223 shell plate for 38 super comp.
Depends on the powder and bullet type. if you're using 115gr and a slow powder like N105 (11gr), then you're almost guaranteed to be compressing the powder a little. Which isn't much of a problem. I use 124gr Montana Gold with 10.3gr of N105 which is just a little below the bullet so it's not compressed.
Thanks! I would try Rainier Ballistics who are still stocking bullets and have them for sale.
Melhor calibre que existe
Those finished rounds look nice and shiny, do you use crushed walnut or corn cob for your vibratory tumbler? On a side note, I've read that if you want to cut down on the lead contaminated dust from the tumbler, you can cut up used drier sheets into one inch squares and put them in.
Hello:
Thank you for the video. You do a great job on the freedom seeds. Question, have you chronographed that specific load? Where you using any specific loading data. Was it something you worked up your self? Looks like You are using the most of the case capacity from the video. Any extra information would be appreciated. Thanks
Hi. It has been a long time since I've loaded 38 super comp, and to answer your questions, yes, I've definitely chronographed all my loads because the sport requires that you hit a very specific velocity to make power factor. For a 124gr bullet, I'd need around 1380fps velocity to make around 172 power factor which gives me a nice safety margin from the required 165 power factor.
I initially got the recipe from Brian Enos Forums, and tweaked it for my gun, because different guns have different effects using the same load and same bullet.
I just moved to the 650 too, yes it's SO much better :)
dam brother I remember speaking with you about 4 years ago about bullets your video pop up so just here saying high lol
BigETCB haha nice! Small world eh?
gunrobot yeah brother all ways good to see you
Hey I know this is an old video, just need some help. Trying to get into reloading. Shooting an STI DVC Open in 38 Super Comp. What does your price per bullet end up costing?
Hi thanks for sharing. I have a question, you added 10. Somethings grains of powder then tumbled your finished round for around 1 hour have you ever pulled the head off 1 reloaded round and checked the consistancy of the powder. Does it look the same as when you first charged it or has it broken down in to fine dust, resulting in more pressure?
Never taken it apart but my velocity has been consistent. Tumbled so many rounds and never seen anything like that. Maybe it's the type of powder ?
enjoyed your video but you mention Montana gold were you buy your ammo cant get through they must of shut down to catch up so were else would you recommend
You never have enough room on your bench!
38 Super is straight walled and 9x19mm is tapered. 9x19mm dies can be used for loading 9x23mm Win or Starline 9x23mm Super Comp. As for 380 ACP, it has a .373" neck and .374" base, where as 38 Super has .384" neck and base. With that in mind, don't use 380 ACP dies for 38 Super, use actual 38 Super dies.
Hi gunrobot. What crimp you use on 38 super?
you mean dies? I use the ones that Dillon provides. The trick is how much and I never measured it but it's just a hair and it's close to non-visible.
Just started to reload .38 super comp. It looks like the powder charge will be compressed with the seated bullet, is this o.k.? Enjoyed the videro, thanks
Enjoy your videos, My wife got me a Dillon XL 650 for my birthday, I have been loading 45acp and 9mm. I am getting a conversion kit for .223. How about some pointers for reloading .223 Thanks........
The crimp i use is hardly discernable. When the case is flared, it only flares very little almost the point you can't see it. Just enough to let me seat the bullet easily. After that, the case crimp is set to straighten the flare and include a very slight (maybe a couple thou) crimp to hold the bullet in place. again, it's almost not visible.
How do you know how much power each bullet needs and how do you put the same amount each time?
The Dillon reloader I use allows me to calibrate how much gunpowder goes into each case. It drops that same amount of powder every time I pull the crank. As for how much power, I'm assuming you mean PowerFactor. PowerFactor is calculated like this. Bullet Weight (grains) X Velocity (fps). So my bullet weight is 124grains X 1,400fps (measured using a chronograph). That gives me a power factor of around 173,600. I need a minimum of 165,000 to make Major.
What is your OAL?
I notice you are concerned enough to use gas check bullets, but you don't prep the casings. Deburring, chamfering, and primer pocket conditioning are also factors to accuracy. Also, hollow points are theoretically more accurate because they are weighted to the rear; having less material forward moves the center of gravity back and they should fly straighter. Something to consider...
I also noticed your powder level is quite high in the casing. Depending on how deep you're seating bullets the powder is probably being compressed. Check your primer seating depth of completed rounds against your uncharged casing. Primers can be pushed out. If you're sold on Vihtavouri you should look at N310 or N320 which will leave you more space under the bullet for seating.
Only reason why I'm using bullets with gas check is so that it doesn't smoke when the lead gets burnt on the way out. JHPs are historically more accurate but I'm getting really good accuracy with the CMJs as well.
It is indeed compressed a little but it has never affected how the gun performs. I'm getting a lot of gas to work the comp.
How,many people would,play golf if they had,to make their,own golf balls? "Major" is antiquated.
is the Dillon 650 worth the money
The Watcher 207 totally! It has changed how I reload and saves me so much more time for other stuff like dry fire practice and family
sweet sounds like its a good idea ill do some more research into it
38super is 9mm so 9mm/38super is the same as 9mm dies with the difference of over all length by 4mm.
Very informative information that is new to me or never thought about, thanks
You still using the 550? No auto indexing is a no no nowadays....
This video is so old :)
@@gunrobot lol, I know, just trying to find out what have u changed...🤣
@@calvin14888 i'm using 650 now with a case feeder.
@@gunrobot Same here, but I'm using the newly designed Mini Case feeder and Bullet dropper from DAA. No need to put bullet with my hand, only pulling the handle 😀
can this setup reload 7.62 *39
Yes, the Dillon 550 has kits to reload practically every caliber known to man and if it's a custom wildcat cartridge, I believe they can custom make dies and everything you need to reload them. The thing about 7.62x39 is I don't think you can reload them for less than you can buy ammo for. However, price is not the only reason to reload your own ammo but if you're looking at it from the saving money angle, I don't think you will save with reloading that caliber.
What does it cost you to produce 50 bullets 9mm
Daniel Jimenez I've actually never calculated what it cost. Perhaps 13-15c each?
Daniel Jimenez I make 50 rounds of 9mm 147's at 135pf for around 6$
It's basically the cost of the bullet plus about 5 cents for everything else. So if your bullets are $20 for 100 that's 20 cents plus 5 or 25 cents per round. This guy is using Vihtavouri which is about twice the price of US powders. So he might add 10 cents plus the bullet. Casings are hard to figure the cost because you re-use them and very often you can find them for free at the range. Of course your setup costs for reloading equipment is large; figure $1000.
Casting my own bullets I can do them for about $5 for 100 rounds or $2.50 per 50 but that's with free lead and of course 9mm you never have to buy cases cuz they're everywhere. If you're not casting your own bullets but using a relatively cheap bullet they'll cost around $7-8 per 50 rounds.
A great way not day lol
The shell is too full and the bullet will compress the powder, that is not good practice.
I stopped watching when you lubed the cases for a carbide die,,, I have reloaded since the early 80's and I am again and again surprised of useless habits people develop.
not sure how to explain this to you but having a lubed case definitely helps with sizing even if you're using a carbide die. It makes the press smoother to operate instead of being "sticky". Perhaps you could open to the fact that sometimes these things work for a reason. thanks for watching though.
how sticky can a small 38 super get. I have reloaded about 80-90 000 rounds in 45 acp, never had a problem with sticky brass in the carbide dies. Have not loaded more than a few hundred 38 super but have not had any issue with these either. If you clean the cases and maybe tumble them in a tumbler (I prefer wet) cleaned & polished brass usually work the magic.
+Trond Berg lubing cases work for me, lubing cases dont work for you. You're not gonna lube your cases because it doesn't work for you and I'm not gonna not lube it because it doesn't work for me. We both win right? Don't have to be so polarizing man.
Not trying to be ''polarizing'' and everyone know, anything you lube will slide better, no question about that. ;-) Remember, many people look at this and some don't have the ''experience'' to make own decisions. Adding lube add two steps to the process. I am not telling anyone what to do, just stating the fact that it is not a necessary step with carbide dies. At the end of the day, everyone to themselves and what work best for them. I for one, have done many things I later learned was not necesarry. It is actually great that people post ''how to'' reloading videos and it is for sure a big help. Your vido is of quality and as fare as I can see very detailed and well made. So keep it up, and don't worry too much about us old timers making comments. We can also learn a thing or two from younger people who see things from a difrent angle.
Norse Man noone gives a fuck about your opinion
OMG you have to do so much manually. Get a 650 much better. lol