All the parts on that engine are available from Cummins, the actuator is actually less expensive from Cummins than it it from the Nissan dealership. This 5.0 engine is used in multiple applications with Cummins, not just the Nissan.
It’s your turbo actuator 100% When you get on it and you hear that chatter, it’s your engine getting the wrong air/fuel ratio because your actuator is acting up. If you look, your truck will be “over boosting.”
@@kbridges5.0 Pull it apart and see if you can fix it. You are already going to have to get a new one, if you can’t fix it, throw it back together and give them it as a core. 😂 My stock fuel lift pump was leaking. Everyone including the dealership said the top cracks and you have to replace the whole thing. I pulled it apart and found an O-ring has gone bad. $16 to replace it myself. 14k miles and still no leak. I had a terrible knock. Had multiple people said it was a bad injector, injector harness, rocker arm, exhaust manifold cracked. I pulled it apart and found that my #2 injector crush washer and o-rings were gone. I replaced them for $20. 20k miles and no issues. Right now my turbo actuator is acting up. Everyone is saying replace it. I haven’t gained the confidence just yet to pull it off and try. But you, you are in a great position to try because you can’t even really drive your truck. Plus you have engine knowledge. I believe in you. 🙏
The factory pipe can be modified, by anyone with a welder and a sawzall... you don't even need to modify it, unless it is leaking. This is a prime example of price gouging. That being said... I'd recommend avoiding this truck, regardless.
You have to make sure your car's been off for a few minutes because it's still getting power from the battery Then you can move it I used to have to do that and move mine and then we'll work for a while I had to wait a year for my actuator because of covid
Was there a selection in your tune that turned off your EGR or did you simply unplug them? Any check engine lights as a result of the delete? Thanks again for sharing your experience! Great Information.
Now you have to put the oem up pipe back on to see if you and Jerry were right. Wonder if the weird pressures from the block off plate temporarily over extended the turbo actuator.
@@jerryp9375 gotcha! Sorry for getting your name wrong. I can’t believe he spent 1k on a pipe, but built the rest of the kit on his own. Fabricating a patch for that pipe can’t be that difficult.
If it is the turbo actuator then the truck should be throwing a code. The valve between the high and low pressure turbo is more likely the problem. If that valve is gone your in big trouble it will require a new turbo assembly since Nissan can't get and replace the valve that the actuator controls. Shitty design period. New turbos $7195 list and your truck will sit at dealer for weeks. Just happened to me WTF.
Think this is what mine is needing the turbo actuator I sure hope I don't have to wait 6months for it. 😤😤 Was on the interstate engine light came on engine powered reduce kicked in then kicked off check engine stayed on. Throwing 3 codes now.
What codes? My Titan did same thing. Its fixed now by replacing entire turbo assembly of high and low pressure turbos and the valve between them that directs exhaust gases.
Had to replace my turbo actuator as well but mine still rattles if I hit the gas quick to kick down and pass someone. If I roll into the throttle it doesn't, but if I'm 9n the highway and hit it at about 60% pr more throttle it rattles loud and rolls a bunch of coal then kicks in. Also sometimes at moderate throttle it sounds like thw exhaust is louder like the wastegate is partially open becayse it sounds real throaty like a gas v8, and the boost is pegged at 30psi even though im only at 40-50% throttle. Under full throttle you dont hear that loud exhaust sound. You just hear the loud hissing of the turbo through it. I also get turbo surge too from the larger turbo. Im going t9 try reinstalling the tune (GDP tune). When I first got thw tune it didnt smoke unless I was at 60hp and above, now it rolls coal big time even on 30hp. More so than it used to do on the 120hp tune.
The actuator won’t move as easily if the engine is on or even if the battery is being used. Mine is bad, 2 weeks wait and got a new one. In the mean time everytime my light came on I would turn the truck off lock it, move the actuator and then clear the check engine light. Truck would be good for about 50 miles and repeat. The turbo actuator also needs to be calibrated by Nissan so check on that if you had it off.
It would easily want to over boost when the light first came on so keep an eye on that. After driving with the check engine light and monitoring my boost it would eventually go into limp mode. When that happens my traction light would also light up.
Nissan went this route on my truck and replaced the actuator and it made no difference. Next step was new turbos which took 5 weeks to get. Entire ordeal of bs trouble shooting took about 2 to 3 months of fix, break, fix, break, fixed finally.
Just a little advice, most the actuators that are bad aren’t bad, the linkage on the backside is locking up. Take off clean and lube and reinstall
All the parts on that engine are available from Cummins, the actuator is actually less expensive from Cummins than it it from the Nissan dealership. This 5.0 engine is used in multiple applications with Cummins, not just the Nissan.
Exhaust manifold not intake
It’s your turbo actuator 100%
When you get on it and you hear that chatter, it’s your engine getting the wrong air/fuel ratio because your actuator is acting up. If you look, your truck will be “over boosting.”
I completely agree, problem is the actuator is on backorder
@@kbridges5.0 Pull it apart and see if you can fix it. You are already going to have to get a new one, if you can’t fix it, throw it back together and give them it as a core. 😂
My stock fuel lift pump was leaking. Everyone including the dealership said the top cracks and you have to replace the whole thing. I pulled it apart and found an O-ring has gone bad. $16 to replace it myself. 14k miles and still no leak.
I had a terrible knock. Had multiple people said it was a bad injector, injector harness, rocker arm, exhaust manifold cracked. I pulled it apart and found that my #2 injector crush washer and o-rings were gone. I replaced them for $20. 20k miles and no issues.
Right now my turbo actuator is acting up. Everyone is saying replace it. I haven’t gained the confidence just yet to pull it off and try.
But you, you are in a great position to try because you can’t even really drive your truck. Plus you have engine knowledge. I believe in you. 🙏
“I’m literally exhausted.” Figuratively as well.
$1000 for an up-pipe? Suddenly I don't want this truck any longer.
An alternative that I didn't think of at the time would be to have an exhaust shop make one, probably would only be a few hundred bucks
The factory pipe can be modified, by anyone with a welder and a sawzall... you don't even need to modify it, unless it is leaking. This is a prime example of price gouging.
That being said... I'd recommend avoiding this truck, regardless.
He went to gerads ‼️ ya ‼️
$1000??? Good for them. They are making bank.
You have to make sure your car's been off for a few minutes because it's still getting power from the battery Then you can move it I used to have to do that and move mine and then we'll work for a while I had to wait a year for my actuator because of covid
Was there a selection in your tune that turned off your EGR or did you simply unplug them? Any check engine lights as a result of the delete? Thanks again for sharing your experience! Great Information.
100% sounds like the actuator was locked up. Many people will free them up just to get by until they get a replacement in.
Now you have to put the oem up pipe back on to see if you and Jerry were right. Wonder if the weird pressures from the block off plate temporarily over extended the turbo actuator.
@@jerryp9375 gotcha! Sorry for getting your name wrong. I can’t believe he spent 1k on a pipe, but built the rest of the kit on his own. Fabricating a patch for that pipe can’t be that difficult.
If it is the turbo actuator then the truck should be throwing a code. The valve between the high and low pressure turbo is more likely the problem. If that valve is gone your in big trouble it will require a new turbo assembly since Nissan can't get and replace the valve that the actuator controls. Shitty design period. New turbos $7195 list and your truck will sit at dealer for weeks. Just happened to me WTF.
Thats why i traded in my nissan cummins! I was worried about getting parts later down the road!!
Think this is what mine is needing the turbo actuator I sure hope I don't have to wait 6months for it. 😤😤 Was on the interstate engine light came on engine powered reduce kicked in then kicked off check engine stayed on. Throwing 3 codes now.
What codes? My Titan did same thing. Its fixed now by replacing entire turbo assembly of high and low pressure turbos and the valve between them that directs exhaust gases.
Had to replace my turbo actuator as well but mine still rattles if I hit the gas quick to kick down and pass someone. If I roll into the throttle it doesn't, but if I'm 9n the highway and hit it at about 60% pr more throttle it rattles loud and rolls a bunch of coal then kicks in. Also sometimes at moderate throttle it sounds like thw exhaust is louder like the wastegate is partially open becayse it sounds real throaty like a gas v8, and the boost is pegged at 30psi even though im only at 40-50% throttle. Under full throttle you dont hear that loud exhaust sound. You just hear the loud hissing of the turbo through it. I also get turbo surge too from the larger turbo. Im going t9 try reinstalling the tune (GDP tune). When I first got thw tune it didnt smoke unless I was at 60hp and above, now it rolls coal big time even on 30hp. More so than it used to do on the 120hp tune.
Did you get it recalibrated when you installed it?
@@kbridges5.0 yeah, dealership replaced it under my extended warranty.
Conicelli nissan has been getting parts fast to me!
The actuator won’t move as easily if the engine is on or even if the battery is being used. Mine is bad, 2 weeks wait and got a new one. In the mean time everytime my light came on I would turn the truck off lock it, move the actuator and then clear the check engine light. Truck would be good for about 50 miles and repeat. The turbo actuator also needs to be calibrated by Nissan so check on that if you had it off.
It would easily want to over boost when the light first came on so keep an eye on that. After driving with the check engine light and monitoring my boost it would eventually go into limp mode. When that happens my traction light would also light up.
Nissan went this route on my truck and replaced the actuator and it made no difference. Next step was new turbos which took 5 weeks to get. Entire ordeal of bs trouble shooting took about 2 to 3 months of fix, break, fix, break, fixed finally.
What kinda man drives a Nissan truck ???
Idk ask you're mom
@@kbridges5.0
I did she said some foul stuff
Lol
@@kbridges5.0
All in good fun ....
1990 Nissan Hardbody 🤠 ... in the fleet anyway.
now she needs new shoes