Small tip from a guy who is F I N A L L Y starting to get some amazing groups. DONT give up after a lot of failures because your going to need to just reload. Learn it get familiar with everything the tools how your press feels the way your gun or guns shoot. Reloading takes practice I have landed on good loads by complete luck in the beginning of my quest to learn this skill. However I still come back to videos like this and as I progress in time and experience. I’m starting to really grasp what these men are talking about. It takes time fellas you will see I promise you
Can you please come back to making video? I’ve just recently found these and have been watching all of them. They are incredibly helpful and informative. Lots of good info. I think you are a great resource and the shooting community could really benefit from your continued instruction. Thank you. 🙏🏼
Not having all your fancy gear I just partially seated a new slug in an empty full length sized case & used the rifles bolt to push the slug into the case. Then using the seating die just pushed the slug in .1 deeper & made that my "master" dummy round. And wrote its OAL on that case. Seemed to work fine. Shot great. Like you, found setting slug just a tad off the lands worked best. Also lightly crimp each NON cannelured. And tight crimp cannelured. THAT really seemed to help & definately increased velocity & decreased velocity spread. Old gunsmith taught me that. Also, inside reaming the primer hole into a cone shape gave a better primer flame that ignited the powder from very bottom to top more consistantly. It also slightly enlarges the primer flash hole. For what its worth I usually get 10 FPS or less velocity spreads. But im a real stickler for EXACT powder weights on EVERY load. Every round is identical to its brothers. Only do "cold bore" testing too..where we live in the bush 1 shot is the difference between eating or not & thats going to be out of a cold bore. In the winter, an EXTREAMLY cold bore. 😁
I know that some of these vids are old and you probably wont see this, but I have to thank you Mr. Sam. I have loaded my first set of 308 load development rounds and will be headed to the range tomorrow to see where Im at. Ive learned how to do everything right here on your channel. Im a rookie to be sure but the way you explain things is very easy to understand and to put into practice. Teaching ability is hard especially in this format but you have it down cold. Thanks again for the knowledge transfer. i hope you make some more videos at some point.
Sam, You are intelligent, articulate, precise, and present sooo well. You do not make your presentations about You. "Results driven" Works for me! Thanks
Hi sam,Kelly from Canada just getting in to reloading for 6.5 PRC. Lots of my friends reloading for hunting but I want a challenge reloading for long-distance precision. I think your presentation and knowledge is quite amazing. Really enjoy it thank you.
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing all the information. I've been reloading for many years and was content with 1 MOA out of my hunting rifles until I was laid up from surgery and started watching all of these videos. My first rifle to start the new load development on went from 1 MOA down to .375 MOA simply from buying the required measuring tools and applying these techniques. Awesome info in an easily understood format! Now on to the next rifle and application of this new knowledge. Thanks again!
I've been watching reloading videos for awhile now and I have seen no one that explains things so well as you. You take the complexity out and bring in the most important ingredient: just plain old common sense. It is both, a learning experience to watch your videos and a pleasure. Thanks for all the work you do to help us shoot better and enjoy this wonderful sport more.
I am 62 years old and reloaded for over 20 years back when it was cost effective. Now with the price of powder and components, you can buy a factory premium round that performs perfectly fine. I use to do what you are doing for seating depth and not crimp on cannalures but that limits the round to TARGET only. I still have my stuff but never use it. RCBS dies were good but I prefer the Lyman turret press. A good custom barrel usually cures reload accuracy problems too.
Thank you so much for this great awesome information. What really stuck with me was, "If you're getting the results you are looking for stop right there and start shooting." Also, "Don't be afraid to abandon a bullet if it doesn't shoot well. All that matters is the results in the target." Thanks again!
I fire form the case and afterwards cut a small cut down the start of the neck of the case. So you can push the projectile in with a small amount of pressure. And it won’t slip to easily. Then carefully seat the empty case and primer with the projectile at a long length into the rifle using the bolt. Push it forwards and close the bolt. Then carefully remove and measure the overall length. That’s your distance to the Lans. No tools just a dremal or hacksaw blade. It has worked for me. Great videos. Cheers Brent
A huge thanks, Sam, for clearing up something I have been frustrated with for s while...seating depth COL vs CBTO and why some bullets just don't seem to shoot well out of a rifle that I know can be a tack driver. Now to the range! A great teaching video.
When I was young, 40 years ago. I wasted a lot of powder and bullets trying those tiny adjustments. I was young and dumb. If a Bullet or powder won’t shoot, move on. In my experience all those tiny seating adjustments won’t mean crap on the target. I can work up a load really fast using common sense and experience. You are right on . I get a kick watching those shooters wasting their powder trying to get a load to shoot that just won’t shoot. I know from experience. Liked your video.
Good advice about the limitations on seating depth that may be imposed by the magazine. I went to a whole lot of trouble to measure the seating depth just touching the lands using the comparator tools, then discovered that the overall length of that load exceeded what would fit in my magazine. The closest I could load to the lands was the maximum COL that my magazine would handle, so that's where I stopped.
The first rifle I ever hand loaded for was an old Sako L579 chambered in 243 Ackley. I really regret not taking better notes on my trials. I learned a lot from that rifle and I wish I could remember half of it. Great video.
Sam, I love your videos as well as your written stuff. I've learned a lot and remembered a lot of what I'd forgotten. Wonderful. A few days ago I asked about the Redding Competition shell holders. You said they "are a waste of money. They don't work." I had already purchased them, so I did what you tell everyone to do in your videos--"Don't be afraid to try something." Well, the .002 setback shell holder worked like a charm the first time and the 50th time. Perfect .002 shoulder bump. I'm using an RCBS Rebel with 6.5 CM Hornady Match dies (with Micrometer seater head), the Hornady gizmo to measure with the Modified case I made from once-fired brass, and measuring results with a Mituyomo digital caliper. The shell holder also worked for my .308 Win. For that, I use a National Match sizing die and a Forster Micrometer seater die. As soon as I make the Modified case for my 300 WSM we'll see how that turns out. All brass is Alpha or Lapua. BTW, don't believe what you read about the RCBS Rebel's ram being sloppy. This thing is built like a tank. You need two strong men and three boys to lift it (JK), and the ram doesn't wobble a nanometer. I feel a bit awkward giving this constructive criticism. Even though I have been reloading for over 25 years, your depth and breadth of experience are way greater than mine. These shell holders just worked for me. I guess it is better sometimes to be lucky than good. Now let's see how these babies shoot!
I remember. All I said was they were a waste of money. I bought two sets of them to try. In the end, they don’t do anything a twist of the die can’t do. But you’re right-try everything!
I can't get enough of your videos. I read a lot online, and everybody thinks they're an expert, and always act like their way is the only way. You've taught me to think about WHY I'm doing certain things, and it helps filter out all the dumb stuff we all see on forums and Facebook. Keep up the great videos. I will be watching them, for sure!
Well done Sam. I hope people are watching and listening to you and your processes. Bench rest guys will argue with a signpost,.... and anyone that tells them that headspace has nothing to do with accuracy. They will also argue when someone tells them that the jump distance to the lands isn't that big a deal. Never mind that the u.s. military machine already spent millions proving these points, they still spend their own time and money going all through it again. I found the same thing as you did. The barrel will either like the bullet and shoot it well, or it won't ! I have one customer that absolutely is stuck in this old paradigm and refuses to revisit his testing procedures....when I already tested the rifle and got perfect results. He goes right back to bullet jump lengths and starts all over again with his 6.5 CM. The problem is with his eyes and how he sees things through his scope. I know because I can take the rifle from his hands after he shoots a group and take the exact same load and shoot a 1" five shot group at 300yds. with it. Keep up the good work! We are listening.
You must keep in mind BR are a different breed and don't measure groups in .1x", they measure in .0xx", with repeatability within .0xx". Most out there will never own a rifle that'll honestly shoot five 5 shot groups in the teens (.13-.19"). There is a reason why BR shooters jam bullets. Hunters can't do that. Even if they could, most don't have blueprinted actions (definitely not to extent as BR actions.)
Subscribed, great presentation. I'm a new reloader working on a load for my Savage 10 chambered in .308 and having a ton of fun with it. So far I've settled on: 175 SMK 42.0gr IMI 4064 Hornady brass (Have Lapua on order) Federal Match large primers. Put four through a ragged hole with one flyer about a half inch left, for a total of .62 MOA. .3 MOA excluding the flyer. Loaded up some more last night and hoping to verify the load soon.
First time I have seen your videos. Want to compliment you on your clarity and precise explanation of this and other subjects. It is a welcome relief from some of the reloading nonsense found elsewhere. Thank you.
very honest and good information. thumbs up. I own 270 win and I try and measure my gun kissing point with 2 type of bullets obviously I don't have that kind of tools in this country but I use empty case with bullet and try to fit in rifle 3 times and then make it deeper 2.5mm to achieve less jump and good exit by bullet. I try it from half mm to 3mm which is the default choice of ammo factory but as you mention in clip lots of element involving the reloading. like Tangent Ogiv vs Secant Ogive or conventional rifling vs polygonal and etc. as long as your group stay lower than moa in 100 meters every thing is ok but boxer primer, quality of case ( I prefer shot once with mine rifle ), black powder and bullets + reloading skill and tools make it elite. everyone hesitate to announce a measure in most of the time but it seems 2.5 mm up to 3mm dept from kissing point is good enough and it is my personal opinion
Thank you for the awesome video. I am currently deployed and your videos are what I watch on my off time. I am planning to start reloading when I get back state side. I have watched most of the reloading videos on youtube but your videos are the best as far as explaining how and why to do certain thing a certain way.
gary dziuk I hope you made it home safely, brother. Thank you for your service. Also, hope the reloading project went well and has been fruitful for you. It’s a lot of fun and almost therapeutic. Especially precision reloading.
Thank you so much, for producing these videos. It's nice to listen to somebody that really knows what you're talking about . Anytime I find one of your videos I can't afford not to watch one . Thanks again Art Bogden Pittsburgh PA 🇺🇸
I'm just getting interested into reloading and have read so much info and have been absolutely overwhelmed with info and choices. There are so many different models and brands and techniques lol. Don't really know anyone that does reloading so I'm pretty much trying to learn what and how to do it on my own. I finally ran across your videos and they are great! You explain things so well and make so much more sense about the subject that other videos I've watched. Thanks for doing the videos. They are greatly appreciated and very helpful! I might even be able to figure out this reloading thing after all lol!
I like this video a lot and there are still a few reloaders who use metal layout dye like Dykem or a Sharpie permanent marker on the chambered bullet to see some landing / rifling marks . Great video . Thanks and all the best .
Sam you definitely have it down to the best there is , the only big difference I’ve ever noticed in seating depths of different bullets is when I for hunting purposes started loading a Barnes MRX , you know the solid copper bullets with pressure rings, three or four , grooves like a maxi ball , these type bullets tell you on the box to start your seating depth 50 thousandth off lands and boy were they right , and the closer you get to the lands , the worse your groups will be. Oh and they are expensive, but worth every penny , I could change the powder charge a bunch , and not hurt the group size, they just Waller a hole in the paper.
I switched from SMK 2200's years ago when the Amax 168 came out. I just picked up for 168 Sierra TMK. Do they shoot any different than the old 168 2200's?
Thanks for a very good video on how to do this,you go into alot of detail and explain things that lots of other people miss,loved some of your other clips to.
Thanks. Simple but amazingly effective. I hate doing this job with the comparator then take an average of 5. Yours is a more accurate way in my opinion. Not to keen on removing the extractor though.
I sure enjoy learning from you. Im new at reloading rifles. Ive been reloading pistoles a while. You explain reloading in a way thats easy to understand. Im starting to load for a Savage 110 build for Antelope. You seem like a neighbor I could hang with for sure. Thanks for the videos from N Texas.
Great videos. I would like to see you compare the measurement from your homemade comparator case with the Hornady unfixed case to see if there is really a meaningful difference in overall chamber length as measured.
You bring up a good point. I do measure this with my rifles and there's usually a difference of a few thousandths. Maybe not very meaningful but something I like to note, especially if I'm trying to put a bullet right on the lands. I would guess Sam is making his own modified case from brass fired in that gun, so there wouldn't be any difference for him to measure. If you have a lathe and the correct tap they are super easy to make.
Hi Sam, I just found and subscribed to your Channel. I like your approach on precision rifle topics and I'm excited to see more of your work. Cheers from Iowa!
All my loading is for hunting, But like you said, I will abandon a bullet in a heartbeat if it's not grouping well out of my barrel! I've also had to abandon some powders as well.
Hey guy nice to meet you, nice to listen to you real good job with the video enjoy the heck out of it. Nice to hear somebody that knows what they're talking about. A lot of common sense , And makes a lot of sense. Thanks again keep doing those videos. 🇺🇸
Obtaining ammo for my .356 Winchester has become a real frustration, so if I plan to keep this rifle I need to learn how to use .444 or .307 brass and "resize" it neck it down to the .356 configuration. Please put together a video which details this procedure step by step. Don't just talk about it, but actually do it! There are numerous discontinued rounds out there and I know there are plenty of people who bought the Winchester 94 AE Lever Action Big Bore in the 1980s who would be real grateful to you.
Love the vids...PLEASE keep them coming!! Question: can you do a video about "accuracy nodes". I can understand most of what YOU talk about but for some reason, others are difficult to follow. Thanks!
Excellent dissertation. I will throw another hat in the ring. You are relating to hunting rifles. I no longer hunt, but still target shoot. I have a custom benchrest rifle. These rifles DO show substantial changes in accuracy when varying seating depth. The tolerances in the benchrest rifles are much tighter which probably accounts for why you see the changes in accuracy. Anyway my benchrest rifle’s “sweet spot” is 3 thousands off the lands to touching in most all bullets... Do you see any “sweet spot” at all in the hunting rifles?
You can measure headspace on the special case for the OAL tool and measure the headspace on your fired brass then simply calculate the difference to adjust the base to ogive reading for your particular chamber.
Excellent video. I would like to know how you feel about utilizing max reasonable seating depth to increase case capacity and performance. Example would be my Savage 110 300WM using 208 Amax and H1000. I found that if I run single feed(.010 jump) I can easily load up to 79 grains and get no pressure signs. I assume this is more relevant to "magnum" cartridges using slow powder.It's true about Savage generally having a nice long magazine. The only round I've had to single feed to get close to the lands is in my Savage 110 300WM.
Excellent information and presentation, very informative and directly helpful. I am having difficulties doing this on a .223 Rem Ruger Predator using the Hornady tool and modified casing in that I get wildly differing results on each attempt. I took my time, very carefully executed each step, made sure the shoulder of the case was seated in the chamber, moved the rod forward with measured force, tightened the lock nut, and still got huge differences on each attempt. I finally stopped out of pure frustration. I accept that this is a tried, true and tested methodology which leads to the only variable, the grey matter between my left and right ears. Any and all advice would be welcomed.
You should measure base to shoulder with a headspace comparator also, especially on a store bought modified case. You can then add or subtract that measurement from your resized brass to know exactly how far off the lands you are. New brass that's been modified could be .010"+- different (usually shorter) than your resized brass, throwing off your BTOL by the same amount.
I just used the Hornady case length guide tool and a .223 modified case, used the digital caliper and every dang one came out different for COAL I don't care to buy comparator gauges too, at this point (until I'm gifted some more gift cards :)) so I'm just gonna use the mean average and seat under that. As it is I can't remember if I used the loading book COAL or used that and added 10 thou. (That's where a notebook would have come in handy while letting the barrel cool). In the end, Without any measurement tools I got 1.090 for 5 rounds at 200 yards, and .850 with 3 rounds at 200 yards, Factory Barrel, Remington 700 SPS Varmint in .223 in a Stocky's stock and a Timney Hunter (Elite) trigger set at 2 lb---so with the tools and seating depth work I'll try to beat it. As far as what shot best in the .223 varmint so far, 55 gr. V-MAX flat based. The Nosler BT Varmint in same weight were everywhere with same powder charge. 1:12 twist rate limits the bullets I can use, to probably 60 gr. and under. Thanks for your videos, Sam.
To seat out long against the lands serves to build higher chamber pressures which is what crimping does for hunting rounds. Six of one, half dozen of the other. The advantage of the shorter round is that it will fire well in any rifle, not just the long range target rifle you are working on. I also found that the Teflon coated rounds help greatly to extend barrel life but they are not cheap.
Hi from France, thanks for your excellent video . I am using the hornady OAL gauge + hornady mod. cases in .308 . I made a first measure with a Hornady BTHP 168 grs and it worked like a dream for my B14 . But I had a kind of stress with Nosler Partition 175 grs HPBT and I think it's very long long to reach the land . I am a bit worried ...
ditch the gauge and use a case with a slightly sized neck fireformed case. Strip bolt down to the body to get the correct feel of a formed case. You should be able to close the bolt with a slight resistance but not a hard bolt closure. I use a Lee Collet die to control the neck tension, to allow the right clearance when applying red lock tight for a dummy round. From there I use a Redding seater micro seating die.
Small tip from a guy who is F I N A L L Y starting to get some amazing groups. DONT give up after a lot of failures because your going to need to just reload. Learn it get familiar with everything the tools how your press feels the way your gun or guns shoot. Reloading takes practice I have landed on good loads by complete luck in the beginning of my quest to learn this skill. However I still come back to videos like this and as I progress in time and experience. I’m starting to really grasp what these men are talking about. It takes time fellas you will see I promise you
Can you please come back to making video? I’ve just recently found these and have been watching all of them. They are incredibly helpful and informative. Lots of good info. I think you are a great resource and the shooting community could really benefit from your continued instruction. Thank you. 🙏🏼
Not having all your fancy gear I just partially seated a new slug in an empty full length sized case & used the rifles bolt to push the slug into the case. Then using the seating die just pushed the slug in .1 deeper & made that my "master" dummy round. And wrote its OAL on that case. Seemed to work fine. Shot great. Like you, found setting slug just a tad off the lands worked best. Also lightly crimp each NON cannelured. And tight crimp cannelured. THAT really seemed to help & definately increased velocity & decreased velocity spread. Old gunsmith taught me that. Also, inside reaming the primer hole into a cone shape gave a better primer flame that ignited the powder from very bottom to top more consistantly. It also slightly enlarges the primer flash hole. For what its worth I usually get 10 FPS or less velocity spreads. But im a real stickler for EXACT powder weights on EVERY load. Every round is identical to its brothers. Only do "cold bore" testing too..where we live in the bush 1 shot is the difference between eating or not & thats going to be out of a cold bore. In the winter, an EXTREAMLY cold bore. 😁
Alaska?
I know that some of these vids are old and you probably wont see this, but I have to thank you Mr. Sam. I have loaded my first set of 308 load development rounds and will be headed to the range tomorrow to see where Im at. Ive learned how to do everything right here on your channel. Im a rookie to be sure but the way you explain things is very easy to understand and to put into practice. Teaching ability is hard especially in this format but you have it down cold. Thanks again for the knowledge transfer. i hope you make some more videos at some point.
Sam, You are intelligent, articulate, precise, and present sooo well. You do not make your presentations about You. "Results driven" Works for me! Thanks
Hi sam,Kelly from Canada just getting in to reloading for 6.5 PRC. Lots of my friends reloading for hunting but I want a challenge reloading for long-distance precision. I think your presentation and knowledge is quite amazing. Really enjoy it thank you.
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing all the information. I've been reloading for many years and was content with 1 MOA out of my hunting rifles until I was laid up from surgery and started watching all of these videos. My first rifle to start the new load development on went from 1 MOA down to .375 MOA simply from buying the required measuring tools and applying these techniques. Awesome info in an easily understood format! Now on to the next rifle and application of this new knowledge. Thanks again!
At last--someone who has great knowledge and can share it clearly, understandably and accurately. Thank you, Sam.
I've been watching reloading videos for awhile now and I have seen no one that explains things so well as you. You take the complexity out and bring in the most important ingredient: just plain old common sense. It is both, a learning experience to watch your videos and a pleasure. Thanks for all the work you do to help us shoot better and enjoy this wonderful sport more.
I am 62 years old and reloaded for over 20 years back when it was cost effective. Now with the price of powder and components, you can buy a factory premium round that performs perfectly fine. I use to do what you are doing for seating depth and not crimp on cannalures but that limits the round to TARGET only. I still have my stuff but never use it. RCBS dies were good but I prefer the Lyman turret press. A good custom barrel usually cures reload accuracy problems too.
Thank you so much for this great awesome information. What really stuck with me was, "If you're getting the results you are looking for stop right there and start shooting." Also, "Don't be afraid to abandon a bullet if it doesn't shoot well. All that matters is the results in the target." Thanks again!
Thank you, I really appreciate the quality and content of your videos; you are teaching a lot of reloading.
I fire form the case and afterwards cut a small cut down the start of the neck of the case. So you can push the projectile in with a small amount of pressure. And it won’t slip to easily. Then carefully seat the empty case and primer with the projectile at a long length into the rifle using the bolt. Push it forwards and close the bolt. Then carefully remove and measure the overall length. That’s your distance to the Lans. No tools just a dremal or hacksaw blade. It has worked for me. Great videos. Cheers Brent
A huge thanks, Sam, for clearing up something I have been frustrated with for s while...seating depth COL vs CBTO and why some bullets just don't seem to shoot well out of a rifle that I know can be a tack driver. Now to the range! A great teaching video.
When I was young, 40 years ago. I wasted a lot of powder and bullets trying those tiny adjustments. I was young and dumb. If a Bullet or powder won’t shoot, move on. In my experience all those tiny seating adjustments won’t mean crap on the target. I can work up a load really fast using common sense and experience. You are right on . I get a kick watching those shooters wasting their powder trying to get a load to shoot that just won’t shoot. I know from experience. Liked your video.
I’ve been watching these regularly! Really enjoying them. Just ordered a Lee reloading kit, dies, etc. for my 6.5 creedmoor.
Good advice about the limitations on seating depth that may be imposed by the magazine. I went to a whole lot of trouble to measure the seating depth just touching the lands using the comparator tools, then discovered that the overall length of that load exceeded what would fit in my magazine. The closest I could load to the lands was the maximum COL that my magazine would handle, so that's where I stopped.
The first rifle I ever hand loaded for was an old Sako L579 chambered in 243 Ackley. I really regret not taking better notes on my trials. I learned a lot from that rifle and I wish I could remember half of it. Great video.
Thank you Sam for a great video and also for not ruining it with background electric guitar solos.
Sam, I love your videos as well as your written stuff. I've learned a lot and remembered a lot of what I'd forgotten. Wonderful. A few days ago I asked about the Redding Competition shell holders. You said they "are a waste of money. They don't work." I had already purchased them, so I did what you tell everyone to do in your videos--"Don't be afraid to try something." Well, the .002 setback shell holder worked like a charm the first time and the 50th time. Perfect .002 shoulder bump. I'm using an RCBS Rebel with 6.5 CM Hornady Match dies (with Micrometer seater head), the Hornady gizmo to measure with the Modified case I made from once-fired brass, and measuring results with a Mituyomo digital caliper. The shell holder also worked for my .308 Win. For that, I use a National Match sizing die and a Forster Micrometer seater die. As soon as I make the Modified case for my 300 WSM we'll see how that turns out. All brass is Alpha or Lapua. BTW, don't believe what you read about the RCBS Rebel's ram being sloppy. This thing is built like a tank. You need two strong men and three boys to lift it (JK), and the ram doesn't wobble a nanometer.
I feel a bit awkward giving this constructive criticism. Even though I have been reloading for over 25 years, your depth and breadth of experience are way greater than mine. These shell holders just worked for me. I guess it is better sometimes to be lucky than good. Now let's see how these babies shoot!
I remember. All I said was they were a waste of money. I bought two sets of them to try. In the end, they don’t do anything a twist of the die can’t do. But you’re right-try everything!
I can't get enough of your videos. I read a lot online, and everybody thinks they're an expert, and always act like their way is the only way. You've taught me to think about WHY I'm doing certain things, and it helps filter out all the dumb stuff we all see on forums and Facebook. Keep up the great videos. I will be watching them, for sure!
Well done Sam. I hope people are watching and listening to you and your processes. Bench rest guys will argue with a signpost,.... and anyone that tells them that headspace has nothing to do with accuracy. They will also argue when someone tells them that the jump distance to the lands isn't that big a deal. Never mind that the u.s. military machine already spent millions proving these points, they still spend their own time and money going all through it again. I found the same thing as you did. The barrel will either like the bullet and shoot it well, or it won't ! I have one customer that absolutely is stuck in this old paradigm and refuses to revisit his testing procedures....when I already tested the rifle and got perfect results. He goes right back to bullet jump lengths and starts all over again with his 6.5 CM. The problem is with his eyes and how he sees things through his scope. I know because I can take the rifle from his hands after he shoots a group and take the exact same load and shoot a 1" five shot group at 300yds. with it. Keep up the good work! We are listening.
You must keep in mind BR are a different breed and don't measure groups in .1x", they measure in .0xx", with repeatability within .0xx". Most out there will never own a rifle that'll honestly shoot five 5 shot groups in the teens (.13-.19"). There is a reason why BR shooters jam bullets. Hunters can't do that. Even if they could, most don't have blueprinted actions (definitely not to extent as BR actions.)
Subscribed, great presentation. I'm a new reloader working on a load for my Savage 10 chambered in .308 and having a ton of fun with it.
So far I've settled on:
175 SMK
42.0gr IMI 4064
Hornady brass (Have Lapua on order)
Federal Match large primers.
Put four through a ragged hole with one flyer about a half inch left, for a total of .62 MOA. .3 MOA excluding the flyer. Loaded up some more last night and hoping to verify the load soon.
First time I have seen your videos. Want to compliment you on your clarity and precise explanation of this and other subjects. It is a welcome relief from some of the reloading nonsense found elsewhere. Thank you.
Thank you Sam, I am just getting into reloading and you have been an great help and its making reloading so much easier watching your vidieos
I love your straight talk sam. Thank you for the videos
very honest and good information. thumbs up. I own 270 win and I try and measure my gun kissing point with 2 type of bullets obviously I don't have that kind of tools in this country but I use empty case with bullet and try to fit in rifle 3 times and then make it deeper 2.5mm to achieve less jump and good exit by bullet. I try it from half mm to 3mm which is the default choice of ammo factory but as you mention in clip lots of element involving the reloading. like Tangent Ogiv vs Secant Ogive or conventional rifling vs polygonal and etc. as long as your group stay lower than moa in 100 meters every thing is ok but boxer primer, quality of case ( I prefer shot once with mine rifle ), black powder and bullets + reloading skill and tools make it elite. everyone hesitate to announce a measure in most of the time but it seems 2.5 mm up to 3mm dept from kissing point is good enough and it is my personal opinion
Probably the most common sense approach I have ever heard! Thanks.
Thank you for the awesome video. I am currently deployed and your videos are what I watch on my off time. I am planning to start reloading when I get back state side. I have watched most of the reloading videos on youtube but your videos are the best as far as explaining how and why to do certain thing a certain way.
gary dziuk I hope you made it home safely, brother. Thank you for your service. Also, hope the reloading project went well and has been fruitful for you. It’s a lot of fun and almost therapeutic. Especially precision reloading.
Thank you so much, for producing these videos. It's nice to listen to somebody that really knows what you're talking about . Anytime I find one of your videos I can't afford not to watch one . Thanks again Art Bogden Pittsburgh PA 🇺🇸
Excellent videos Sam, very practical and speaking from a lot of experience
I'm just getting interested into reloading and have read so much info and have been absolutely overwhelmed with info and choices. There are so many different models and brands and techniques lol. Don't really know anyone that does reloading so I'm pretty much trying to learn what and how to do it on my own. I finally ran across your videos and they are great! You explain things so well and make so much more sense about the subject that other videos I've watched. Thanks for doing the videos. They are greatly appreciated and very helpful! I might even be able to figure out this reloading thing after all lol!
I like this video a lot and there are still a few reloaders who use metal layout dye like Dykem or a Sharpie permanent marker on the chambered bullet to see some landing / rifling marks . Great video . Thanks and all the best .
Sam you definitely have it down to the best there is , the only big difference I’ve ever noticed in seating depths of different bullets is when I for hunting purposes started loading a Barnes MRX , you know the solid copper bullets with pressure rings, three or four , grooves like a maxi ball , these type bullets tell you on the box to start your seating depth 50 thousandth off lands and boy were they right , and the closer you get to the lands , the worse your groups will be. Oh and they are expensive, but worth every penny , I could change the powder charge a bunch , and not hurt the group size, they just Waller a hole in the paper.
This is my 1st video of yours. I can tell this channel will be a great tool for me. Thank you.
Yes I like your videos as the way you do them is almost being face to face not just a voice in the back ground
One of the best explanation about this topic. Thanks mate.
Excellent! If it shoots, leave it alone.If doesn't shoot a SMK, there is a problem with the barrel.
I switched from SMK 2200's years ago when the Amax 168 came out. I just picked up for 168 Sierra TMK. Do they shoot any different than the old 168 2200's?
It's because of you that I am able to reload my ammo. Thank you sir!!!
So well laid out and easy to understand for us beginners. Thanks.
Excellent video !! I agree with everything you said. Its been my experience over the years as well. Thanks
Thanks for a very good video on how to do this,you go into alot of detail and explain things that lots of other people miss,loved some of your other clips to.
Thanks. Simple but amazingly effective. I hate doing this job with the comparator then take an average of 5. Yours is a more accurate way in my opinion. Not to keen on removing the extractor though.
Really enjoyed the video. Every informative. Will use it on my first attempt to develop my 30.06 load.
Thanks for doing these videos. They are well thought out, explained and incredibly helpful.
Just found this video (05 April 2022) and this is wonderful 'real-speak'. Thank you !
I sure enjoy learning from you. Im new at reloading rifles. Ive been reloading pistoles a while. You explain reloading in a way thats easy to understand. Im starting to load for a Savage 110 build for Antelope. You seem like a neighbor I could hang with for sure. Thanks for the videos from N Texas.
Thanks for the great content on your YT channel and webpage. I look forward to more precision reloading tips and videos.
Thanks
Great job explaining the process. Thank you for posting
Thanks for an honest and well thought out video.
great video Sam , very easy to follows, keep up the good work, cheers Wayne.
Great job on your videos, been looking at a mec and after I watched your video I got one on order. Keep up the good work.
Great video Sam! Thank you for all of your educational videos... Well done!
Great videos. I would like to see you compare the measurement from your homemade comparator case with the Hornady unfixed case to see if there is really a meaningful difference in overall chamber length as measured.
You bring up a good point. I do measure this with my rifles and there's usually a difference of a few thousandths. Maybe not very meaningful but something I like to note, especially if I'm trying to put a bullet right on the lands. I would guess Sam is making his own modified case from brass fired in that gun, so there wouldn't be any difference for him to measure. If you have a lathe and the correct tap they are super easy to make.
Hi Sam, I just found and subscribed to your Channel. I like your approach on precision rifle topics and I'm excited to see more of your work. Cheers from Iowa!
Thanks man, extremely informative especially to a beginner loader like I am and everything is spooky
Sam, Thank you for awesome videos I am new to reloading and have learned a lot of valuable info on your website and videos.
Thanks for an informative video. You answered several questions I've been having problems with.
All my loading is for hunting, But like you said, I will abandon a bullet in a heartbeat if it's not grouping well out of my barrel! I've also had to abandon some powders as well.
Top information.. You've gut my sub. You know, there's no classroom for reloading. You're informative.
As always another great video! Thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge.
消してください。日本は禁止されてます、本当に迷惑けました
Hey guy nice to meet you, nice to listen to you real good job with the video enjoy the heck out of it. Nice to hear somebody that knows what they're talking about. A lot of common sense , And makes a lot of sense. Thanks again keep doing those videos. 🇺🇸
Sam you make sum good videos. Keep them coming
Thank you Sam for sharing your knowledge.
Obtaining ammo for my .356 Winchester has become a real frustration, so if I plan to keep this rifle I need to learn how to use
.444 or .307 brass and "resize" it neck it down to the .356 configuration. Please put together a video which details this procedure step by step. Don't just talk about it, but actually do it! There are numerous discontinued rounds out there and I know there are plenty of people who bought the Winchester 94 AE Lever Action Big Bore in the 1980s who would be real grateful to you.
Wow! The man can teach! Thank you, sir
Thanks, looking forward to learning more from you!
Love the vids...PLEASE keep them coming!! Question: can you do a video about "accuracy nodes". I can understand most of what YOU talk about but for some reason, others are difficult to follow. Thanks!
Thank you so much for making these videos! You are a wealth of knowledge.
Always a life saver Sam, great video. 🤙🏼
Excellent dissertation. I will throw another hat in the ring. You are relating to hunting rifles. I no longer hunt, but still target shoot. I have a custom benchrest rifle. These rifles DO show substantial changes in accuracy when varying seating depth. The tolerances in the benchrest rifles are much tighter which probably accounts for why you see the changes in accuracy. Anyway my benchrest rifle’s “sweet spot” is 3 thousands off the lands to touching in most all bullets...
Do you see any “sweet spot” at all in the hunting rifles?
Thank you, Sam. Great video. Well said and well done, too.
Thank you so much for making it so simple to follow great video.
Thank you for the great video! Ignore the 8 trolls that gave you a thumbs down.
thanks for the info just starting reloading ,good info
I really enjoyed the information you shared in this video. . .
You can measure headspace on the special case for the OAL tool and measure the headspace on your fired brass then simply calculate the difference to adjust the base to ogive reading for your particular chamber.
Great explanation. Thank you very much.
Great video exactly what i needed! Thanks
Excellent video. I would like to know how you feel about utilizing max reasonable seating depth to increase case capacity and performance. Example would be my Savage 110 300WM using 208 Amax and H1000. I found that if I run single feed(.010 jump) I can easily load up to 79 grains and get no pressure signs. I assume this is more relevant to "magnum" cartridges using slow powder.It's true about Savage generally having a nice long magazine. The only round I've had to single feed to get close to the lands is in my Savage 110 300WM.
Excellent information and presentation, very informative and directly helpful. I am having difficulties doing this on a .223 Rem Ruger Predator using the Hornady tool and modified casing in that I get wildly differing results on each attempt. I took my time, very carefully executed each step, made sure the shoulder of the case was seated in the chamber, moved the rod forward with measured force, tightened the lock nut, and still got huge differences on each attempt. I finally stopped out of pure frustration. I accept that this is a tried, true and tested methodology which leads to the only variable, the grey matter between my left and right ears. Any and all advice would be welcomed.
Yes everything is explained which is ideal I’m hoping to improve my group size by testing my jump
You should measure base to shoulder with a headspace comparator also, especially on a store bought modified case. You can then add or subtract that measurement from your resized brass to know exactly how far off the lands you are. New brass that's been modified could be .010"+- different (usually shorter) than your resized brass, throwing off your BTOL by the same amount.
This is a great video. You're a great teacher. Thanks!
Very nice presentation...
I thought you were in the pan gandel of Florida until I saw the snow in your video !
Really helpful and well presented. Thanks
I just used the Hornady case length guide tool and a .223 modified case, used the digital caliper and every dang one came out different for COAL I don't care to buy comparator gauges too, at this point (until I'm gifted some more gift cards :)) so I'm just gonna use the mean average and seat under that. As it is I can't remember if I used the loading book COAL or used that and added 10 thou. (That's where a notebook would have come in handy while letting the barrel cool). In the end, Without any measurement tools I got 1.090 for 5 rounds at 200 yards, and .850 with 3 rounds at 200 yards, Factory Barrel, Remington 700 SPS Varmint in .223 in a Stocky's stock and a Timney Hunter (Elite) trigger set at 2 lb---so with the tools and seating depth work I'll try to beat it. As far as what shot best in the .223 varmint so far, 55 gr. V-MAX flat based. The Nosler BT Varmint in same weight were everywhere with same powder charge. 1:12 twist rate limits the bullets I can use, to probably 60 gr. and under. Thanks for your videos, Sam.
Nice Redding t7, I have that press also. I love it.
Good video sam👍, really enjoy your uploads
Thanks!
Brilliant video. Thanks Sam.
To seat out long against the lands serves to build higher chamber pressures which is what crimping does for hunting rounds. Six of one, half dozen of the other. The advantage of the shorter round is that it will fire well in any rifle, not just the long range target rifle you are working on. I also found that the Teflon coated rounds help greatly to extend barrel life but they are not cheap.
Just getting into loading for PR. Great video. Sub'd. :)
Great info. Thanks Sam.
Thank you for the great information!
Outstanding approach! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Brian the designer of the Berger vld hybrid says .005 is ideal place to start
Yes i use my book to record all my load info and have a digital caliper! I load 40 caliber and 5.56mm rifle! I use the LEE progressive loader
Easy to understand content.
Very nice video, thanks for sharing.
Hi from France, thanks for your excellent video . I am using the hornady OAL gauge + hornady mod. cases in .308 . I made a first measure with a Hornady BTHP 168 grs and it worked like a dream for my B14 . But I had a kind of stress with Nosler Partition 175 grs HPBT and I think it's very long long to reach the land . I am a bit worried ...
ditch the gauge and use a case with a slightly sized neck fireformed case. Strip bolt down to the body to get the correct feel of a formed case. You should be able to close the bolt with a slight resistance but not a hard bolt closure. I use a Lee Collet die to control the neck tension, to allow the right clearance when applying red lock tight for a dummy round. From there I use a Redding seater micro seating die.