What You Need to Know About Glue | WOODWORKING BASICS
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Gluing is an essential part of woodworking. Here are the basics to get you started.
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I was a glue/veneer specialist for most of my life and I think you did a great job.
You might want to mention waterproof, and water resistant glues for exterior applications. And also, what kinds of glues will stick to oily woods like teak and how the application of denatured alcohol on the surface to be glued will remove the surface oil and prepare the piece for the application of the glue.
It has been my experience that the wood should be clamped very tight. Those water based glues like you were using, tend to shrink as they dry. When brushing on the glue, brush in both directions to work the glue into the pores. Brushing in one direction will pull the glue out of the pores.
Polyurathane glues like Gorilla glue will expand as it dries so you need to be carefull or you will have a mess to clean up. Because it expands, you won't need to worry about a tight clamp.
If gluing something thin, it's alway best to use a backer board that covers the entire area and be sure the clamps are in close proximitry so you squeese out the glue. You can coat the backer with any kind of wax like butchers wax and the glue will not stick to it.
What you did with the screws on the end was great and is exactly how I use to do it. Another neat trick is to increase the surface area by using a spline or a bisquit. If you look at your kitchen cabinets, they are probably made that way meaning they are routered in a way to increase the surface area to be glued.
I enjoy watching your videos and I hope I was able to add some additional, useful information. God Bless
Bob
Thanks for this comment. This will really help me with my college project of building a stand-up paddle board. I'm worried about the gluing the most.
Adding Biscuits for extra strength is a bit of a myth but very good for accurate alignment.
@@christianpetersen1782 Yup! But they really do make a huge difference for accurate alignment that's for sure. I love them for that.
This is a quality comment! Thanks for sharing!!!! :)
Thanks for sharing. Thats why i love woodworking comunity
That wood-breaking demonstration blew my mind - what a great way to show the power of a good glue bond!
Also, I love that you called it "feeling frisky" about only waiting 30 min for glue to dry! Love your videos.
I think woodworkers should budget a little for "R&D" where they just experiment. I think a big thing that's left out is getting people to do these types of experiments. Or out weight on your chairs to see what the maximum weight it can hold is. How can you iterate on your designs you're using.
silicone brush: waaaayyyy more fun than washing a paint brush. thanks!!
tim sway I enjoyed the glue video, you forgot to mention indoor and outdoor project using glue in the freezing month... my poor fence gate came apart.... wrong type of glue.....grrrrrrr
Yeah tim
@@lucdesmarais I don't know what part of CA he's in but he likely doesn't need to worry about freezing temps
I use old hack saw blades to spread the glue. The rougher one leaves pretty close to the perfect amount behind.
Pro Tip for excess glue removal. Don’t wipe it off while it’s still wet because that will spread it into the surrounding wood and will be harder to remove and may even ruin your finish. Instead let the glue dry as it is and once dried it is easily peeled or scraped off without staining any excess would.
Is there any surface prep, like shellac, that will be an assistant to repel the glue during final glue up of inlays...?
Put some painter's tape just outside the joint, let the goo spooge out onto that, then peel it right off.@@mrpoolplayer6379
I've used a damp sponge before and it seemed to work well
To recover nails holes, i usually use the powder i sanded from the wood itself, mixed with a transparent glue, works like a charm.
Wow!!! I can't believe it- I thought I was the inventor of that. Great minds think alike. Actually, I have saved some in a plastic jar.
Sixty years ago when I was an aeromodeller I used to mix balsa sanding with balsa cement and use it as a filler. It matched perfectly with the wood.
This is what I would recommend..
I was taught this method by an elderly woodworking teacher at School in the seventies still use it today works a treat still surprised that it not more widespread
Use drywall compound.
this video is going to stick with me for sure.
Ayyyyy
What a tacky reply. 😁
These puns are killing me. But I love them! 💛
Glue your arse
I've been team Titebond III for wood for years now. It's waterproof, FDA approved for food contact, non-toxic, has a decently long working time and is the strongest of Titebond's three basic glues. It depends on who your audience is, where whatever you're building is going to be used and who's going to be using it. I build a lot of cutting boards and coasters which are going to both going to into contact with food and water. I also build a lot of toys for kids in the family and cabinets, tables, storage benches and other bits that are going to be used by family, friends and most destructively their kids. One thing little kids all do for a time is put their mouths on everything and spill food on things and then pick it up and eat it without a thought as well. I don't want a little nephew to be sucking on a toy train (he has) or eating of of his train table (again, he has) and worry about him getting sick because of the glue I used.
I can't imagine why 217 people disliked this. It's clear and informative and fast-paced. I'm not a fan of backgound music in how-to videos, but at least, in this one, it doesn't drown out the voice.
Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA) glues like basic school glue and basic wood glue, are plastic polymers emulsified in water with the help of surfactants and other additives. As the water dries, the plastic polymers congeal into a continuous plastic film. Unfortunately, the surfactants and such stay with the film. This means that exposing the dried film to water can re-emulsify the polymer to some degree. Higher performance emulsifying technology can reduce the tendency to re-emulsify and that gives us a PVA glue that can withstand soaking in room temperature water. The adhesive industry calls this a Type II adhesive. Further improvements can be had by adding cross linking technology which makes the congealed plastic film much higher in molecular weight than the original emulsified polymer. This makes a PVA glue that can withstand being soaked in boiling water. Confusingly, the adhesive industry calls this a Type I adhesive. Titebond III is a Type I adhesive with crosslinking technology.
LAME !!!!!
@@dillwiggle2 Just because you don't understand it doesn't make it lame. Thanks 1arm_65 for the explanation.
@@mikecurtin9831 It's true all MIke's are LOSERS
In certain fields like mine (instrument making and repair), the fact that wood glue joints come apart easily with heat and water is an asset. Means that as long as an instrument maker didn’t use some weird epoxy (which has been happening more and more recently) you can easily take the joint apart without damaging anything using a bit of steam and some patience.
you have heard of wood, right? It doesn't like heat and moisture either.
I use wood glue to remove tiny cactus thorns from my hand or fingers. Put some over the thorn, let it dry and peal it off with the thorns attached. I wished it worked on wood splinters under the fingernail, ouch.
Awesome! Tape and rubber cement too.
+Eugene Lanzl thank you santa! :)
Thanks Eugene! I always have cactus needles in my fingers from caring for mine. I'll try this for sure.
where were you 20 years ago? xD We used to had a cactus with these tiny motherfucker hairlike thorns. Every time you accidentally hit it you had like millions of these thorns in your skin. A bitch to get them all out.
Avenged84: for a family site your language is atrocious and not acceptable. Please edit your post using appropriate language.
Old video, but still gold.
Very details and helpful. Thank you Steve.
I could watch a microjig skit compilation video all day. The way you do them really gives a chuckle.
your intros are one of the few intros I actually enjoy!
You, sir, are an excellent teacher. Thanks! 😊
Best wood working channel on TH-cam !
The analogy with the straws was really helpful, thanks
A tip for removing excess squeezed-out glue is to use a damp or even quite wet cloth - you will remove excess far more effectively and do much less sanding once it's dry. Glue will also be less likely to be absorbed into the grain of the piece you are making, which can be visible when varnishing or oiling later in the project and almost impossible to remove at that stage.
The more I know, the more I realize I don't know. You made this very clear to me with your glue video! Thanks for the education. It was fun and educational. Thank you!
Very informative video. I am not a master woodworker yet but I am a master wood glue peeler like yourself. There is just something satisfying about peeling wood glue off of fingers and brushes. Glad to see that I am not the only weirdo out there. Excellent video.
I was glued to this video from beginning to end :)
Just a few additions from my side:
Instead of just using a dry cloth, use a damp cloth. Removes the glue much better and easier.
Use something like cotton only, other materials will leave fluffs behind.
Don't use paper towels, really messy.
When using wood glue, clamping can be difficult because the surfaces 'skate' away.
Some people use 'biscuits' or dowels to prevent that.
Another good, very simple and cheap technique, is using tiny little nails.
Just hammer the nails in one side, cut off the heads and join the two wood pieces together.
One type of glue I am missing in this video which is widely used in (mostly cabinet like) constructions is PU glue (or construction/foam glue).
It's is not the nicest glue to work with, because it is extremely sticky (so use gloves or be careful!).
PU glue expands and therefor is very useful to tighten joints like recessed , dovetail joints etc.
Real professional products (like big PA loudspeakers etc) are mostly glued with this.
Wood glue can be perfectly used for veneering.
Just roll glue on veneer and piece of wood and let it dry for 10-25 minutes (until it's is just sticky/almost dry), meanwhile heat up an iron.
Ones the iron is warm enough, just put the two pieces together and press firmly on the iron, the heat reactivates the glue.
Now just simply go over the whole surface area and finish with a roller.
Wood glue can be used to repair (old) paper loudspeaker cones.
Use paper towel and pull/rip it in little pieces.
Mix the wood glue with a tiny bit of water.
Put some glue/water mix on the gap/crack with a little brush.
Now add the little pieces of paper towel and cover them up again with some glue/water mix.
Let it dry for 12-24 hours.
This only works for small gaps and don't use toilet paper (it contains some strange kind of glue that doesn't dissolve)
Last funny little detail.
Wood glue looks yellowish in the USA, in Europe (and many other parts of the world) it's white colored.
(dries up transparent)
Steve, your videos continue to form the basis of my woodworking education. Thank you for the great work!
This may sound odd, but you totally remind me of Phil’s dad off of modern family. I love how upbeat you always are. I hope I can teach my kids as well as this. Hopefully we will be done building our beginners workshop by the end of the month
Awesome video, Steve. But you missed a great opportunity. At about 4:54 you mentioned using a brad nailer to act as clamps during the bonding process. And how brads leave visible holes to deal with later. Although this is not a gluing technique, it is a great tip to hide those nail holes.
I'm sure you know this tip. But you may have some viewers who don't. Add a small drop of wood glue to the nail holes and run an orbital sander over the area. As it sands, it forces the sand particles into the nail holes and covers them completely. And because you are sanding the piece with holes in it, the matches the wood shade perfectly.
Thanx for your great videos, Steve. I watch them all.
Tip: When buying glue or an epoxy, make sure you know whether it dries clear or not. I bought something recently that dried yellow.
Yes. This is a very good Tip. I had the same problem. Now I see on the label if it dries clear, white or any other color. THANK YOU for this Tip.
Another thoughtful, concise explanation. I really appreciate it, Steve!
I have to say, 9 and a half minutes on wood glue I thought this was going to be a waste of time but, you nailed it
I am enjoying all these tips on glue. I am a 72 yr woman and love to work with wood. These tips will come in handy for me
You forgot to mention the glue that holds us all together every Friday Steve, that would be you and WWMM! Thanks again Steve.
Thanks so much for this series Steve. I am just getting into wood working and despite many claims out there of videos that state they are for beginners there really aren't many that systematically and comprehensively cover the topics you are covering here. Keep up the great work good sir!
One of the most professional video makers on the channel. Well planned and edited. So refreshing.
he’s so happy when removing the glue from itself i love it
thanks for the end grain tip..never knew that!!🤔😆
Great tips and I really like your energy, that makes for a very interesting video about a subject that could be otherwise boring.
really enjoy your videos. one thing i learned when i would be in my grandfathers shop watching him, he used saw dust from the wood he was working on ( scrap piece, sand with some 80 grit) and mix it with wood glue and use it as a putty to fill the nail
holes. it stains the same color and never knew the difference.
As a beginnger this was unbelievably helpful, thank you!
Great video. You answered questions I didn't know I had.
Love your information. glueing up a series of small wood for box. I found using a sharp puddy knife to run along the glued surface removes almost all the glue especially if surfaces are not even you can run along the lower surface and get it "all." Also cutting a plastic straw at a 45˚ angle can be used to move along the glue line and remove it cleanly.
Absolute dude. This channel "Does what it says on the tin" (not sure if that makes sense to anyone other than UK viewers?) Thanks for sharing your years of woodworking experience with us. A+
You are the Bill Nye of woodworking. I have been binge watching your videos and it's been awesome. Thanks for making these.
I like this type of videos, it would be nice if you could make more of them.
+Dryadwoods Thanks! I try to do one a month.
Totally agree, please make more!
You should teach teachers how to teach !! so simple ,so clear , BRILLIANT !!
Steve I'm just a bit of a shop hacker in wood working and don't have much space in my garage shop but I do appreciate all of your help . Most of my projects are for Halloween or Christmas props , but each time I watch one of your videos I'm learning something .Thank You ARNOLD.
One of the tricks I have learned is, when gluing up a project that will be finished, first take tape, often box tape, and cover the sides of the joint. Just dry-fit the pieces together, clamp them lightly, and put the tape on. Press it firmly into place with a plastic scraper, then cut the tape along the joint. Then glue and clamp as normal. Dry-wipe the glue from the joint, then you can remove the tape to give a nearly perfect edge to finish. Just a quick touch with a sander and it's ready for finish.
apart from being great woodworker you're also hilarious! I love you man!
I just discovered your videos, and I have to agree with @budietoyka. Also, just as a funny aside, has anyone ever suggested your could be a cross between Fred Willard and Ty Burrell? I mean that in the best way possible.
Not many things more satisfying than picking dry or half-dry wood glue.
what about picking the dried cheese off the nachos platter...you can eat the dried cheese, unlike the dried glue or the dried boogers from picking your nose.
your videos are like the notes one take then goes back to them when needed.
I've been returning to this one over and over again alongside with the other intimate videos.
. شكرا جزيلا
I use epoxy for a lot of my projects and have a couple of tips: I save the little plastic medicine dosage cups and use them to mix small batches. I get a big bag of bamboo skewers for a $1 and use them for mixing and sometimes for application to small areas (such as wooden fishing lures). I also like to split the two tubes apart as it is easier to get a better 50/50 ratio. The two together never seem to squirt out the same amount or one of the tubes will have an air bubble in it. When the glue has dried in the plastic up, squeeze the cup a couple of times and dried glue will come out and you can use the cup again.
"The strongest is probably a pocket screw." You just *had* to poke the bear, didn't you? XD
...you get it Johnny Steen. Thank You.
Cool, I enjoyed the video Steve. I've never heard of Weldbond but it sounds like good stuff!
+April Wilkerson Great channel ^^
@April... I made the mistake of going to your channel... OMG fell in love... You got a new sub!!
April Wilkerson - Gorilla wood glue is also a PVA glue that dries clear.
I found this video to be oddly more satisfying than I expected, very nice.
One of the best DIY helpful videos I've seen in a long time (and I watch a lot!), exceptional production quality and so much fantastic information packed into such a short time. Thank you so much.
I do a lot of fretwork with my scrollsaw, and often want to mount a piece of fretwork onto a piece of contrasting background. If I try to apply the glue with a brush or my fingers, the glue tends to run down into the holes where it is almost impossible to clean up. I have found the best tool for this is a four inch paint roller. Pour some glue onto a scrap piece of Plexiglas, and load up your roller. Then you can very quickly roll on an even layer of glue over the whole piece, and if you do it right, you will get almost no squeeze-out. Then I place the whole thing between two pieces of 3/4" plywood and set a bucket of sand on top as a weight/clamp. Make sure that your plywood pieces are dead flat, and that your glued surfaces do not slide around as you handle them. This is also a useful technique when you want to glue the flat sides of two boards or plywood together, because, with the roller, you can apply a lot of glue to a very large area before it starts to dry.
A drinking straw does a good job of cleaning glue out of corners and tight places . Just crease the straw so it has a sharp point glue goes into the staw. clean the straw by squeezing the straw on every joint
Or suck it up with the straw LOL
This has become one of my favorite channels in less than a day!
Love your enthusiasm and can't wait to get started.
You have made homeownership so much easier for me! Thank you, Steve!!
If parts slip while trying to clamp sprinkle on some table salt. The parts won't move. Great video.
I use hardwood sawdust.
Skully Wood & Metal yeah but the parts don't lay flat so you shouldn't really do that!
nowonmetube well if you're clamping them together and use fine salt then the salt will probably be embedded into the wood to where it says flat properly.
LazyH-Online lol that's just a theoretical thing that would NEVER work irl, lol!
nowonmetube really? Huh, cant say I ever had a problem with the method before, and I'm assuming both myself and my projects exist in real life.
Hey Steve, You were talking about that you can't fill nail holes to match the wood.
Well an old Indian trick is... to use the saw dust from the wood that you're using mixed with a little glue. Your nail holes, once sanded, will accept the stain and become invisible.
+HELLRAISER Why is this an "Indian" trick?
+Maybe Dave
Just an old expression carpenters have used for decades.
Does that work well for you? I've never had much luck matching the color with that method. It always seems slightly off, maybe because of the yellow color in the glue?
+Steve Ramsey I agree. Wooddust doesn't respond to stain like whole wood particularly if it has titebond mixed in with it... Tibebond inhibits stain saturation. Shellac sticks come in many colors and work well.
+Steve Ramsey
Could be the yellow in the glue would give you problems. I don't remember the brand I used but it was white and dried clear. I used more saw dust than glue so maybe that's why it worked well for me.
Your channel is simply AMAZING! I'm glad to find it.
This channel warms my heart
The Microjig cut scene makes me crack up every time. Every. Single. Time.
can u do a video on types of sanding methods and types of sanders plz.
+Ryan rohr To take it one step further I'd like to see sanding methods and using different papers to get the perfect finish.
great suggestion!
Thx.
+Steve Ramsey I'd like to see a video about finishing a project. Especially on how to remove tool marks properly before sanding. I never it all off...
Already saw this a couple of years ago. Came back for the ad stayed for the refresher.
Very informative video on gluing. Thanks for sharing.
Hey, Steve, an observation from my own (admittedly, limited experiences) so far.
I suspect that if you live in high-humidity areas (Florida, SE Texas) that you probably want to use Tite Bond III over TB-II.
It has to do with the way the two work, which is in opposition to each other.
TB-II gives up moisture to the air to dry. In FL, where I am, it was 75 degrees out -- in the middle of winter -- and 45% humidity, which is about as low as the humidity gets.
I was trying to do a glue up with TB-II, and, after **36h of setting**, it was still WET INSIDE... needless to say, it was failing miserably. Part of that was that the wood was damp, too, because... humidity, again. But I had done a lap joint, using a router to remove half of each board... So there was a lot of surface area to be grabbed. No luck.
TB-III, otoh, works by absorbing moisture. The glue up I was doing was set inside 3-4 hours, and had a good, strong bond.
The downside (as you no doubt are aware) is that it "foams", meaning it'll need some additional after-cleaning/prep, which is no doubt a pain but not as much as waiting two weeks to actually complete the setting process.
This isn't a complaint, I just thought your viewers might want to be aware of this if they happen to live in one of those areas, or anywhere else where humidity runs at not much under 50%. I suggest they try TB-III in those areas.
“Sir this is the 8th time this month we have had to replace your debit card”
2:40 You might enjoy those videos where they clear out stubborn blackheads. Oddly satisfying!
I love all your videos Steve!
Great work as usual!
Hey, Steve! Love the tips you shared. What's your tip for loosing wood glue at joints? I'm building a bathroom vanity and there is a piece I need to remove and reattach without it being crooked. Any tips?? Thanks!!
So? What did u do?
Glue and gluing is an essential component of woodworking. It's not exactly something that requires a lot of skill or technique, but I have a few tips that should get you started. Here's what you need to know about glue: the BASICS. Do you have a favorite adhesive? Let us know what works well for you and if you have any gluing tips and tricks to share.
+Steve Ramsey I love Titebond and hope to do a video sometime comparing the different types. Thanks for the video :)
can you make a medal and trophy display i want to make one for my little brother he has alot of medal and some trophies
+Steve Ramsey I always use a silicone brush to apply the glue, it easily washes off and is reusable. Also I do prefer Titebond II it's the best glue I've used so far. Do you shop at Rockler Woodworking for any of your supplies?
+Steve Ramsey One trick i use in case i can't use brad nails is; spread the wood glue but leave some spots where i will drop some drops of cyanoacrylate glue on one side and spray activator on the other part so when both parts touch it will create an instant bond and act as it was brad nailed . Also works with contact cement, mixing/using two types of glue can be very helpful in those cases where it is hard to clamp or the piece won't allow nails or any other hardware. Hope that helps ;)
Can you make this video as educational so I can use it in my school
Your example of your glue bond was with soft wood splitting across the grain. I used to be a professional picture framer. We used Cornerweld brand glue. Once had to break down a frame to redo. It was Ash wood, a very hard wood, at least for the moulding we had. When breaking, the ash wood broke instead of the glued miter. For this reason I am very fond of that brand of glue. Expensive for a gallon but worth it. Other picture frame shops using other glues didn’t measure up to it. Important to spread on entire area to be glued.
Loved the analogy with the straws. Keep up the good work
can you do a video on wood glue vs construction adhesive?
PVA is a white substance that seems to be used on a lot of projects -- it's used as paper glue, for sealing fresh plaster prior to painting, and as a wood glue.
In the UK it is the most readily available product for those sorts of uses. I've never seen Titebond for sale in my local hardware store. Have you ever used PVA, I notice it was not amongst your array of bottles in the video.
So do you know how it compares to other wood glues such as Titebond?
apache16789 has
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to do these.
Crestabond M1-05 is by far the strongest adhesive I've ever used. If you need to glue 2 different materials together, this is your stuff. and its pretty inexpensive and comes in a 2 part tube, you can leave the top off indefinitely and it wont go off until you mix the 2 parts. Wood to metal, metal to fibreglass, fabric to fibreglass. Just 10 minutes curing time and your done. It can act as a filler too, if you've got a gap of 4 or 5 mm to fill, slap it on and let it cure, sand it off, job done. Fantastic stuff!
you can use salt while your gluing things up to make sure that the wood doesn't slide around while you work on it.
+Iqeatbal Ismail you apply glue to one surface and sprinkle a little bit of salt into it, then you put the other piece of wood onto it and the salt caused friction so the two pieces of wood can't slide around past each other.
+The Russian Woodworker Won't the salt cause a reaction with the glue and have some deleterious effect?
+Gallande 34 hasn't happened tonme
Sorry but I could not understand what you meant.
while the woodglue is still wet you can wipe it off easily with water, mostly you don't have to sand after the glue dries.
i was gonna ask that. i use a damp kitchen sponge. no mess to clean up or sand afterwards.
You have answered so many of my questions, thank you!
What a great video! I play this for my 6th graders before we start woodworking. Goes over so much of the fundamentals of woodworking. Thanks for making this.
you can use tape or rubber bans to clamping the wood
yeah it's fine for most small projects
What type of glue would you use on a project that may require 30 minutes or more to assemble
A bit late to the party I know, but it seems like we should make things out of glue for superior durability ;)
Glue is plastic, Polyvinyl Acetate.
Do you guys know if I can do shou sugi ban on wood that I have glued?
I appreciate your instructions and pointers. I especially like your evaluations on why you choose one product over
another.
This channel is so great. I am a newbie when it comes to wood working but I am enjoying it so much and with this channel it makes it nice to be able to find answers from someone so nice and knowledgeable
for filling the small holes i would put a dab of glue in the holes then smear it with sawdust from the same type of timber. then sand it smooth
Since getting hooked on woodworking videos a few months ago I've wondered about the wood glue used in North American videos. It's always yellow, while here in South Africa wood glue is always a white glue, also known as cold glue. It is PVA based and dries clear. I've been wondering if it is pretty much the same stuff, and if so why is ours white while yours is yellow?
+Steve Crane I (from uk) have wondered the same, so it was intreasting to finally get some names. Intreastingly, "titbond ii" or 'yellow glue', as well as 'weldbond' glue are both PVA based glues. So, yes, they must be fairly similar. Yellow glue must have some addative - i wonder if it does more then just make it yellow.
Ok, did some looking into that question. There's some disagreement on it, but here goes, what consensus there is from where I looked:
There IS a dye added that does not affect anything but color, BUT, the (yellow) titebond2 DOES have an additive (aliphatic resin) that DOES improve tack, DOES change the dried glue's hardness, DOES raise the glue's softening temperature once dry, etc, even tho some on the wood glue forum (omg) still insist there is no additive and the yellow is marketing bs. (Wrong I think but with a teeny kernel of truth). A white PVA may have this additive too, like yours maybe, and I hear titebond has a wood molding glue (moulding to you I think) that is both white and has the highest tack of any titebond wood glue. Smart place for high tack I think. Titebond2 is sorta the standard wood glue in the USA, but not the only. My sense is that most are yellow, maybe cuz they're trying to bite into the leader's marketshare. Sorry you asked?
If I'm not mistaken, Titebond is marketed here in South Africa by licence under the Alcolin brand. Imported in bulk and bottled locally, and also available in a variety of types.
Excellent information! Thank you!
Hey Steve, Just a quick tip for filling those unsightly nail holes, you probably already know this though! Mix some of the sanding saw dust (the fine stuff, not from your saw) with some glue and fill the hole. It nearly disappears and takes stain pretty well too. For bigger holes, I do use saw dust from the table saw sometimes. The courser material mimics the grain better than fine dust. It's not as invisible, but it beats starting over sometimes!
Steve, watch this video, from Darbin Orvar: Glue Test Destruction - How Different Glues Perform
Epoxi is far more stronger than you think haha
+PortaTrekos But it's way too difficult to use.
And expensive, at least here in Brazil...
also, thanks to my own experimentation, all glue tastes awful...also, i may need a doctor
Au contraire. Library paste has a wide appeal to the young gourmand.
Dried glue on postal stamps and mailing envelopes probably tastes great. That's why many people used to lick it. :-)
Yeah, it’s not only bus windows that are so tasty.
You should taste hide glue
beginner woodworker here and watching your videos has really helped me out! thanks for the cool videos. I like your enthusiasm
One of your BEST VIDEO's, I really enjoyed it... I am gluing a cracked leg on a small piece and learned everything I needed to know from this video!!! Thank you!!!!
But what should I use if I want a nice black line along my glue seam?!?!
+p burr Titebond 3!
+Steve Ramsey Titebond 3 machines better. Won't wear down your planer blades as quick . Example in Cutting Boards. They say it is also food safe. Although all glues and finishes are food safe after they become inert/dry.
So I am working on a solid body guitar, and I glued 2 inch thick pieces of figured maple together to make a top. Assuming that Titebond 3 was better since it was slightly more expensive, (and because it's "3" and not "2"), I used that. Luckily I planed my boards very well, and there's no visible glue line on the face of the boards, but the back side which will be glued to walnut does have a nasty dark glue line. I should probably just go buy some titebond 2 before I screw something up, shouldn't I?
still haven't found a good situation to use titebond 3. TB2 all the way baby
Aha, sure "satisfying like removing and examining a splinter"
Me thinks you're confusing splinter with booger.
Thanks a lot for this detailed video with so much information in 9 minutes. Very useful for a beginner!
So thorough, holy fudge the high quality explanations. Subscribed~
:( I want more princess meow meow!!
+xBeau Gaming Kipkay (DIYer/"Hacker"/Electronic's Hobbyist) had a cat named Tux, but she passed away this week. Not related, but now I'm thinking of all the channels who show their cat, WWMM showing Princess Meow Meow, Jimmy Diresta with Spike... kind of depressing because it's like a show's sidekick.
i love the way you always introduce microjig
Man i had no clue there was so much to consider when it comes to glue.
Who knew.
This guy, this guy knew when it came to glue.
Excellent information and presented nice and simply !