Thanks Jason! Be sure to watch my newest key duplication video. You can find it in my "Locksmith & Bypass Tools" video playlist below. Please share. th-cam.com/video/6JmUnO1XYOk/w-d-xo.html
I've recently subscribed to this channel and I have to say in terms of clarity of explanation this guy is at the top of his game. Effortless to watch and that's what you want. 10/10.
I use silicone or polyurethane rubber for making molds. Silicone is the fastest and best material to use. A 2-part silicone putty is also available that also works well. This material has the advantage that you don't even need to have a mold container. You just knead the putty components together then press and squeeze it around the key, then hold for about 2 minutes. Rubbers are good for making molds because you don't need to slice the mold open to remove the key. You can just pull the key right out without damage to the mold. Note that you do need a release agent. For casting I would not use a 5-minute epoxy because it will give bubbles less time to float to the top before the epoxy begins to gel and traps the bubbles. Of course, vacuum degassing is best, but that will not work with a sodium alginate mold because of the water content. Super-hard surface epoxies are best as they handle the rough edges and pins in a lock better than softer resins. You can also mix powdered glass and graphite into your casting resin to improve surface durability and working life. Besides epoxy, another option is to use polyurethane plastic (not to be confused with polyurethane rubber). This is almost the ideal material to use because it mixes up much thinner than epoxy resins and it sets up to full strength even faster than 5-minute epoxy. Because it is thinner you do not have to worry as much about bubbles even though it sets fast. This will produce a working strength, usable key in about 15 minutes. It doesn't have quite as good a surface as super-hard epoxies, but it's fine... Finally, I use a few loose strands of carbon fiber, fiberglass, or even thread to give strength to the key and, as you noted, to provide a way to remove a broken key. Do not think that your fancy high-tensile epoxy will not break! I've had keys break in the lock before. Carbon fiber strands work best. They are also easier to push into the resin and move around. I don't like using wire because it is tear the mold and ruin the key when you push it into the resin. I know you need to be careful, but it's just not an issue with carbon fiber or fiberglass.
Silicone rubber doesn't set up in 3-5 minutes. :-) Alginate does, and the detail of the mold is outstanding, just like silicone. If you want a mold that you can use over and over, AND have access to the key for more than 3-5 minutes, then yes, use silicone. Thanks for watching
Mad Hadder "You can get 2 part dental silicone that hardens at various densities and times. The best for doing this is a 22S Hard 2 part that cures and is removable from the mold in 6-8min. [...] There are also 2 Part Polys that cure in 3min to Shore D70 hardness which is many times harder than epoxy." I love the info in this thread, since i couldn't find an epoxy with a low enough viscosity to pour/inject. Do you know where i can find more detailed info on the materials you mentioned? Something like a webshop that explains the differences between the different varieties of molding materials and casting materials? I searched for 22S hard for example and couldn't find what i was looking for.
You'll greatly enjoy my other video below. Be sure to share the link with others. Thank you! th-cam.com/video/9BMdEYUdD5s/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much! Many duplicate keys got lost in my home and it got especially bad when I lost my specific room key! Thank you. I can make a new one now since luckily we got ONE key left. ONE.
Man, you sincerely deserve much more views. This was very well put together and done, especially with the little bits of failsafe integrated in the design/plan.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to watch and share my "Locksmith & Bypass Tools" video playlist below. Thank you th-cam.com/video/ErpS7C4gUVA/w-d-xo.html
As an engineer, I say bravo. But I have just a few suggestions. Try the liquid version of quick steel. Much stronger than epoxy with no need for re-enforcement. When you are filling, try gyrating from the base. That will release any trapped air bubbles (if there are any present). I understand making your own blunt needle syringe, but you can get a 6 pack for 5 bucks on Amazon. And as far as the pop tab, getting a half inch flat washer would be by far better. And the wire you used is too thin. I would recommend a 16 gauge steel rod (you can put a bend through the washer if so desired. Edit: I would also suggest using a file and grooving notches into the steel rod so it bites and sets in better in the quick steel.
Great video excellent instructions. I am a locksmith and I came across a high security key for a customer that I can't obtain the key blanks. I have been trying your method for a few weeks with no success. I am using the exact dental alginate you posted to another person. My problem is I can't get the epoxy to cure inside the dental alginate. The top of the key that hits the air cures fine and would be perfect. But the key part that is actually inside the dental alginate will not cure at all. I pull the key out and it is like a gummy bear. The most important part of the key. The milling and the key bitting will not cure. After I mix up the dental alginate it cures fine inside the pill bottle. I cut one side out with a blade to remove the key that part works well. I trim off the top and make a small opening at the top. I mix up the epoxy and use a syringe to inject inside the mold. That part goes well. After about an hour I check it and the top of the key is nice and hard but when I remove the key from the mold the rest of the key is completely flexible and still wet. It will not cure. In your video you say pour your case as quickly as possible to avoid the alginate from shrinking. I am pouring the casting within 5 minutes of pulling out the key. My question is the dental alginate suppose to be wet inside or complete dry. It seems every time I pour the dental alginate the outside is hard and dry but the inside seems to maintain moisture. I would say it has the consistency of a hard boiled egg. Any suggestions you could offer would be great. This is a very big job I am working on and would help me out greatly. Thank you in advance for any help you or the TH-cam community can offer. Take care and be well. I have a clam shell and Yes I can cast the key in low temperature metal. The problem with that method is the keys come out perfectly but they are so soft you can bend the key in your hand. I need to use this key on over 200 locks. That will not work for my needs. Your epoxy key is perfect and I could make several as backups.
Great video! What epoxy do you use? I've tried 3, two JB Welds and one Gorilla, all three seem to not harden enough to put in the tumbler. they flex too much. Thanks!
👏👏Great Video, amazing mind to come up with such a detailed procedure.👏👏 ElectronicsNmore or anyone else: How strong are keys made using this procedure, will it break off turning a car on or is it fairly strong as a backup key for occasional use?
Cool, I would try JB Weld instead of epoxy. Also it can cure in a few hours but maximum cure is usually 24 hours. Maximum cure can also be sped up by placing it in a convection oven for a several hours at 200 degrees. Very nice video. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
@@electronicsNmore this isnt some revolutionary method. it is a slow, sub-par basic mold and pour setup that produces an extremely fragile epoxy key. Newsflash, einstein: people have been copying keys using clay molds and casting the keys out of zinc or tin for ages. Yes, you can copy a key with nothing but a bunch of clay, some tin wire and a lighter. A damn good key, if you know what you're doing.
all the items are easily available, most locally but the alginate you can get online. If you want a genie to come and fix all your problems go rub your lamp
@@lteralflow4641 what happened, did I hurt your feelings or something? At no point did I ask anyone to do anything for me - thats not my style anyhow. I'm the stubborn idiot that insists on doing things solo to the point of reckless abandon...to the point where someone with any sense *would* have asked for help, and I'm sure I'll die an early and painful death because of it. The point that I was trying to make with my comment was how the title of the video is disingenuous at best. The process appears to take about the same amount of effort as it would to, say, measure the original with a micrometer, source a few appropriate blanks, and then file them by hand, which, for the record, I already do. I'm not saying the video doesn't have useful information. It absolutely does. Is there a time and a place where this information would not only come in handy, but also be the course of action with the highest probability of success? Of course. Just be real, man. Call a spade a spade. That's all I'm saying.
It should work on just about any key made. Glad you enjoyed the video. What's ridiculous is the number of stupid videos on TH-cam that get millions of views, and a video like this only ends up getting 18,000 views. LOL
Thanks. definitely something I'll have to try out. One suggestion. It could be the title. Possibly too specific. I found it buried under making cheap copies out of thin plastic. Loads of the same video. I'm actually surprised no one has copied your technique for their own videos. By far the best I've seen. Even the videos on 3d printing keys get very little traffic.
High tensile wire from a wire cable is probably a better alternative than from a wire tie and protoputty/oogoo/sugru could be used instead of the dental impressioning stuff. A piece of packing tape could be used to provide the seam to break open the key rather than having to use a scalpel.
Glad you enjoyed the video! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others.
I hear that it may be even easier to get such a key copied. Apparently the DO NOT DUPLICATE notation offers no real protection from being copied as there are no laws requiring it to be honored. So some lock smiths may very well duplicate the key. While others may require proof of ownership in order to duplicate the key.
In the USA you cannot buy them at a pharmacy, especially the size I used. Thanks for watching! Below is my "Locksmith & Bypass Tools" video playlist which you may like. Please share. th-cam.com/video/ErpS7C4gUVA/w-d-xo.html
Do you think I will be able to do this with a medeco key? I just moved in to a new apartment and want to give my fiancé a key (they use it for the elevator here) but the manager is all over the place and I don’t get the impression that she’s going to be helping us get the licensed key copy ANY time soon. I’m worried that the epoxy won’t be strong enough and may break off in the lock and then we’ll be stuck paying for it. Any suggestions? Also, anything stronger than a pop can top?
Do you have any suggestion on how to mix the alginate smoothly? The product I used is Kromopan alginate. I find that the mixture dries up so quickly before I get to blend it up, and there are always a lot of particles and chunks left in the mixture. Also, after the one hour of setting, the alginate is still wet and breaks easily like jelly. I might have added too much water, but with less water, it was even harder to mix up the alginate. Would you mind providing the measurement of water and alginate that you used? Thanks!
@@electronicsNmore thanks for the reply! Cold water does help. Which alginate did you use? I find that my alginate keeps getting wet after it's set. It takes 24 hours for my resin to fully set, therefore during the process, the water gets into the resin and makes the key very soft. Should try a different alginate or a faster-setting resin?
Wonder about mixing epoxy inside the corner of a ziplock bag with all the air sucked out, just mush it around, then cut the corner off to squeeze out. I never thought about it for not getting air in. Everyone mixing big things put it in a vacuum, I bet it would work.
Hi Adam. As long as the viscosity of the epoxy is low, it should work fine. Be sure to rate thumbs up, check out my video playlists, share my channel with friends, and subscribe. Thanks
Yeah cool for regular keys. But that key you copied has a transponder. Door might open if key didn’t snap off inside the door, but the cars alarm would get old quick.
electronicsNmore awesome! Thanks. I did that, don't worry! I have never seen any videos like this before. This is so really original. You should have tons more views.
I bought dental alginate and it looked exactly the same but it was just so hard i couldn't even cut threw it... I tried all kinds of amounts but it didn't work... Please tell me exactly what kind of alginate i could buy from Amazon for example
- 00:00 🔑 The video introduces a method to create exact duplicates of various types of keys, including high-security and "do not copy" keys. - 00:15 📹 The method demonstrated is not found on TH-cam or other online sources, making it unique. - 00:50 🛠️ Required materials include fast-setting dental alginate, a syringe, a utility knife, epoxy resin, and various small tools. - 02:20 ✂️ The process involves cutting and preparing a brass tube and syringe to ensure a snug fit for injecting the epoxy. - 04:30 🧪 Mixing alginate is a crucial step, requiring it to be smooth and thin for proper key molding. - 06:00 🔧 After setting the alginate, the key is carefully removed from the mold to maintain the mold's integrity. - 07:20 🔨 A wire is used as reinforcement in the mold to prevent potential breakage of the epoxy key. - 10:30 🧼 Epoxy resin is mixed carefully to avoid air bubbles and then injected into the key mold. - 12:00 🕒 The mold should be filled with epoxy as soon as possible to avoid shrinkage, and the curing process is quick. - 14:00 🔓 After curing, the key is removed from the mold, revealing a perfect duplicate that functions just like the original.
Well, it won't be as strong as a brass key, but if used carefully, it will work just fine. Strength also depends on the epoxy resin used. Remember, you're not making this key for everyday use. :-)
No. Some keys like the one shown in this video are expensive to duplicate. I wanted a spare key to hide outside in case I lock my keys inside the vehicle. Of course people will duplicate other keys as well.
@@electronicsNmore would you happen to know will a key maker make the key if I go to him a locksmith I mean. I own the two keys it's not a matter of duplicating it and not having the original. But there the keys for my washer and dryer in my building and if I lose one we have to basically drill out the hole box. That's was my main reason for coming here.
I don't get these key duplication videos. It's unnessicary overcomplication. 100 parts saltpeter + 18 parts coal + 16 parts sulfur, pack well in a metal container, and apply fire. Opens just about any door you'll come across so well that you'll never need to open that door ever again.
You can do that in plenty of easy ways, including using a 'learning' TV remote. I even had a watch in the 1990s that had a built in TV remote function that could 'learn' or just straight up copy any IR and RF signal. I think they stopped selling that particular model watch because people were using it to steal car alarm frequencies (you could stand about 30ft away from someone pressing their alarm fob and it would copy the signal, so you could then use the watch to deactivate the alarm) it works because I copied my fob in to it (it could store about 200 devices signals so I had my TV, stereo, vcr, car alarm and most of the other devices that had some kind of remote, IR and RF signal in my house stored in to that watch). Those were the days. It wasn't expensive either, it was around £29.99 from either Argos or Index store (can't remember which but they both sold it) in the UK. I have seen similar ones sold on eBay too. You can buy similar functioning devices from places like Ali express etc for virtually pennies (about £2.35 I've seen RF grabbers selling for on there).
No, the other video was just fine. One video showed a metal duplicated key, and the other showed an epoxy resin version. I do like the idea of a 3D printed key. I need to get out my printer. :-)
@@electronicsNmore the thing is their a program to scan a object in 3d? Printing is the easy part. Also the type of plastic to use is also important since theit are like 6 types I think. .
Many things shown on TH-cam and other places online, can be used by the wrong people, but the large number of good people shouldn't have to suffer as a result. :-) Thanks for watching!
Hey mr full of yaself,,, nah just kidding...looking at some of the comments, Algenate is another dental mould making material sorry ( mould U.K ) ( mold U.S ) anyway other than that any pourable silicon mould making rubber will do a better job ( not Latex ) it shrinks, Dow Corning do a wide range and yes it's eblag for a source in small quantity. Also silicon rubbers will last forever and you could cast thousands from one mould. No need to slit it either. One last point that Resin is strong but to make it even stronger you can add any fine metal powder to the mix you can get Brass, Copper, stainless steel, Aluminium etc etc. hope this helps.
Hello. The Alginate works perfectly, and it cost MUCH less than pourable silicone. I have a video showing how I make custom ear plugs using pourable silicone. There is really no reason to have a reusable mold. Once the key is duplicated, I'm done with it. The slit is necessary to avoid damaging the mold when removing the key. The best additive would be very tiny metal fibers, powder won't do too much. When I pour concrete, I add tiny fibers to increase the strength. Thanks for watching!
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
I have to say... comprehensive and well articulated
Great dialogue. Seriously.
Thanks Jason! Be sure to watch my newest key duplication video. You can find it in my "Locksmith & Bypass Tools" video playlist below. Please share.
th-cam.com/video/6JmUnO1XYOk/w-d-xo.html
I've recently subscribed to this channel and I have to say in terms of clarity of explanation this guy is at the top of his game. Effortless to watch and that's what you want. 10/10.
Thanks for the nice comment! Be sure to spread the word about my channel.
I use silicone or polyurethane rubber for making molds. Silicone is the fastest and best material to use. A 2-part silicone putty is also available that also works well. This material has the advantage that you don't even need to have a mold container. You just knead the putty components together then press and squeeze it around the key, then hold for about 2 minutes. Rubbers are good for making molds because you don't need to slice the mold open to remove the key. You can just pull the key right out without damage to the mold. Note that you do need a release agent. For casting I would not use a 5-minute epoxy because it will give bubbles less time to float to the top before the epoxy begins to gel and traps the bubbles. Of course, vacuum degassing is best, but that will not work with a sodium alginate mold because of the water content. Super-hard surface epoxies are best as they handle the rough edges and pins in a lock better than softer resins. You can also mix powdered glass and graphite into your casting resin to improve surface durability and working life. Besides epoxy, another option is to use polyurethane plastic (not to be confused with polyurethane rubber). This is almost the ideal material to use because it mixes up much thinner than epoxy resins and it sets up to full strength even faster than 5-minute epoxy. Because it is thinner you do not have to worry as much about bubbles even though it sets fast. This will produce a working strength, usable key in about 15 minutes. It doesn't have quite as good a surface as super-hard epoxies, but it's fine... Finally, I use a few loose strands of carbon fiber, fiberglass, or even thread to give strength to the key and, as you noted, to provide a way to remove a broken key. Do not think that your fancy high-tensile epoxy will not break! I've had keys break in the lock before. Carbon fiber strands work best. They are also easier to push into the resin and move around. I don't like using wire because it is tear the mold and ruin the key when you push it into the resin. I know you need to be careful, but it's just not an issue with carbon fiber or fiberglass.
Silicone rubber doesn't set up in 3-5 minutes. :-) Alginate does, and the detail of the mold is outstanding, just like silicone. If you want a mold that you can use over and over, AND have access to the key for more than 3-5 minutes, then yes, use silicone. Thanks for watching
Mad Hadder
"You can get 2 part dental silicone that hardens at various densities and times. The best for doing this is a 22S Hard 2 part that cures and is removable from the mold in 6-8min.
[...]
There are also 2 Part Polys that cure in 3min to Shore D70 hardness which is many times harder than epoxy."
I love the info in this thread, since i couldn't find an epoxy with a low enough viscosity to pour/inject. Do you know where i can find more detailed info on the materials you mentioned? Something like a webshop that explains the differences between the different varieties of molding materials and casting materials? I searched for 22S hard for example and couldn't find what i was looking for.
this is one of the best tutorials i have seen it is so calm and explained with amazing results
You'll greatly enjoy my other video below. Be sure to share the link with others. Thank you!
th-cam.com/video/9BMdEYUdD5s/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much! Many duplicate keys got lost in my home and it got especially bad when I lost my specific room key! Thank you. I can make a new one now since luckily we got ONE key left. ONE.
You're welcome! My newer video is better. :-)
th-cam.com/video/9BMdEYUdD5s/w-d-xo.html
@@electronicsNmore
Thank you!
Man, you sincerely deserve much more views. This was very well put together and done, especially with the little bits of failsafe integrated in the design/plan.
I totally agree. This should be a 1M+ video. I've seen many 1M+ videos that aren't deserving of the views they get. Thanks for watching!
note enough failsafe i tried it its not strong enough
Great step by step. Easy to follow. Knowledge is power. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed the video! Be sure to watch and share my "Locksmith & Bypass Tools" video playlist below. Thank you
th-cam.com/video/ErpS7C4gUVA/w-d-xo.html
Knowledge is truly power
After watching, the next time I looked at the recommended videos, there was one, which is called "Why Shouldn't I Rob A Bank?"
TH-cam is a mindreader.
Man, tears going down my face, thank you. God bless you :-)
As an engineer, I say bravo. But I have just a few suggestions. Try the liquid version of quick steel. Much stronger than epoxy with no need for re-enforcement. When you are filling, try gyrating from the base. That will release any trapped air bubbles (if there are any present). I understand making your own blunt needle syringe, but you can get a 6 pack for 5 bucks on Amazon. And as far as the pop tab, getting a half inch flat washer would be by far better. And the wire you used is too thin. I would recommend a 16 gauge steel rod (you can put a bend through the washer if so desired.
Edit: I would also suggest using a file and grooving notches into the steel rod so it bites and sets in better in the quick steel.
@@davidjones-vx9ju sorry if some people are smart and want to help.
Great video excellent instructions. I am a locksmith and I came across a high security key for a customer that I can't obtain the key blanks. I have been trying your method for a few weeks with no success. I am using the exact dental alginate you posted to another person. My problem is I can't get the epoxy to cure inside the dental alginate. The top of the key that hits the air cures fine and would be perfect. But the key part that is actually inside the dental alginate will not cure at all. I pull the key out and it is like a gummy bear. The most important part of the key. The milling and the key bitting will not cure. After I mix up the dental alginate it cures fine inside the pill bottle. I cut one side out with a blade to remove the key that part works well. I trim off the top and make a small opening at the top. I mix up the epoxy and use a syringe to inject inside the mold. That part goes well. After about an hour I check it and the top of the key is nice and hard but when I remove the key from the mold the rest of the key is completely flexible and still wet. It will not cure. In your video you say pour your case as quickly as possible to avoid the alginate from shrinking. I am pouring the casting within 5 minutes of pulling out the key. My question is the dental alginate suppose to be wet inside or complete dry. It seems every time I pour the dental alginate the outside is hard and dry but the inside seems to maintain moisture. I would say it has the consistency of a hard boiled egg.
Any suggestions you could offer would be great. This is a very big job I am working on and would help me out greatly. Thank you in advance for any help you or the TH-cam community can offer.
Take care and be well.
I have a clam shell and Yes I can cast the key in low temperature metal. The problem with that method is the keys come out perfectly but they are so soft you can bend the key in your hand. I need to use this key on over 200 locks. That will not work for my needs. Your epoxy key is perfect and I could make several as backups.
I bought the 2 part high strength epoxy at Ace Hardware.
Thank you So Much! I just used this technique on my Roku remote and it worked!
Roku remote?
@@electronicsNmore She was trying to be funny, even though a remote wouldn't possibly ever be considered a "key"
😂😂
I’m never going to need this but the video is nicely made
You'll greatly enjoy my newer video below. :-)
th-cam.com/video/9BMdEYUdD5s/w-d-xo.html
Great video! What epoxy do you use? I've tried 3, two JB Welds and one Gorilla, all three seem to not harden enough to put in the tumbler. they flex too much. Thanks!
I found a hard setting, low viscosity 2 part epoxy at my local hardware store.
You're like a wizard. Bravo! Subscribed.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I have MANY excellent videos for you to watch. Please refer to my video playlists. Thanks!
Awesome dude !!! This is one me my favorite videos . 😀😀😀
I have better. :-) Be sure to watch and share my "Locksmith & Bypass Tools" video playlist below. Thank you!
th-cam.com/video/ErpS7C4gUVA/w-d-xo.html
And a kitchen sink, great video!
800 steps, “as simple as that!” Rofl ;D
a trick: watch series on KaldroStream. I've been using them for watching all kinds of movies during the lockdown.
@Saint Gabriel Yup, I have been using KaldroStream for months myself :)
👏👏Great Video, amazing mind to come up with such a detailed procedure.👏👏
ElectronicsNmore or anyone else: How strong are keys made using this procedure, will it break off turning a car on or is it fairly strong as a backup key for occasional use?
The strength of the key depends on the resin used.
Interesting. Thank you. Now it's just where can I get all these tools..
Cool, I would try JB Weld instead of epoxy. Also it can cure in a few hours but maximum cure is usually 24 hours. Maximum cure can also be sped up by placing it in a convection oven for a several hours at 200 degrees. Very nice video. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith
I think the already existing clay methods are accurate and faster with less fuss but it was an interesting video 👍🏻
if one can't find the mold materials could you suggest an alternative?
Cannot guarantee the same results using different materials.
sir which epoxy do used for make the key harder. please tell us.
"EASILY copy any key!"
*starts by listing 90 items required, including several that aren't locally available anywhere*
Don't be a wise @ss, YT is full of them. It is easy, but clearly not for you. Be thankful I shared this, I didn't have to.
@@electronicsNmore this isnt some revolutionary method. it is a slow, sub-par basic mold and pour setup that produces an extremely fragile epoxy key. Newsflash, einstein: people have been copying keys using clay molds and casting the keys out of zinc or tin for ages.
Yes, you can copy a key with nothing but a bunch of clay, some tin wire and a lighter. A damn good key, if you know what you're doing.
@@Maxie962 Go ahead put up a video and demonstrate that you know what you're doing?
all the items are easily available, most locally but the alginate you can get online. If you want a genie to come and fix all your problems go rub your lamp
@@lteralflow4641 what happened, did I hurt your feelings or something? At no point did I ask anyone to do anything for me - thats not my style anyhow. I'm the stubborn idiot that insists on doing things solo to the point of reckless abandon...to the point where someone with any sense *would* have asked for help, and I'm sure I'll die an early and painful death because of it.
The point that I was trying to make with my comment was how the title of the video is disingenuous at best. The process appears to take about the same amount of effort as it would to, say, measure the original with a micrometer, source a few appropriate blanks, and then file them by hand, which, for the record, I already do.
I'm not saying the video doesn't have useful information. It absolutely does. Is there a time and a place where this information would not only come in handy, but also be the course of action with the highest probability of success? Of course.
Just be real, man. Call a spade a spade. That's all I'm saying.
Do you have to destroy the mold when the key is finished, or can you make another copy and reuse the mold?
I have reused the mold.
Interesting video. Though I have seen others do that with metals that have a low melting point.
Yes, this was the first epoxy injection video. Thanks for watching!
I wonder if this would would on modern disc lock keys. The detail is incredibly fine. With discs on a couple milimeters thick.
Great idea by the way.
It should work on just about any key made. Glad you enjoyed the video.
What's ridiculous is the number of stupid videos on TH-cam that get
millions of views, and a video like this only ends up getting 18,000
views. LOL
Thanks. definitely something I'll have to try out.
One suggestion. It could be the title. Possibly too specific. I found it buried under making cheap copies out of thin plastic. Loads of the same video. I'm actually surprised no one has copied your technique for their own videos. By far the best I've seen.
Even the videos on 3d printing keys get very little traffic.
High tensile wire from a wire cable is probably a better alternative than from a wire tie and protoputty/oogoo/sugru could be used instead of the dental impressioning stuff. A piece of packing tape could be used to provide the seam to break open the key rather than having to use a scalpel.
Sugru is no good. Nothing, except for liquid silicone, can match up to dental alginate for fine details. Thanks for watching!
Which alginate did you use
Fantastic video. Best one I've seen on the subject. What was the Q tip for?
Glad you enjoyed the video! I have a lot of excellent videos on my channel that cover many different subjects, so be sure to check out my extensive video playlists for other videos of interest to you, rate thumbs up, and share my channel with others.
It's for cleaning your ears
See the text at 5:56, that's what the Q-Tip is for
Neat. I have used durhams putty and lead before but never tried this.
I hear that it may be even easier to get such a key copied. Apparently the DO NOT DUPLICATE notation offers no real protection from being copied as there are no laws requiring it to be honored. So some lock smiths may very well duplicate the key. While others may require proof of ownership in order to duplicate the key.
Yes, some Locksmiths could care less. Thanks fro watching! You'll enjoy my latest video about this. :-)
th-cam.com/video/9BMdEYUdD5s/w-d-xo.html
In pharmacy you can buy nedle in many sizes at fraction of brass tube price. So no need for drilling, shrink tubing and brass cutting.
In the USA you cannot buy them at a pharmacy, especially the size I used. Thanks for watching! Below is my "Locksmith & Bypass Tools" video playlist which you may like. Please share.
th-cam.com/video/ErpS7C4gUVA/w-d-xo.html
Amazing - never thought that would be possible. You're very smart.
Be sure to rate thumbs up, check out my other videos, and share.
Very interesting video, where does one get the dental mold material... thanks
Everything can be found online. Ebay is a good place.
Well done. That was pretty cool 👍
Thank you! It will be interesting to see how long it will take for larger TH-cam channels to steal my idea.
Can I poor a metal instead of the epoxy?
Can I use a syringe with a needle (like the ones used for vaccine injection) inside of the DIY syringe? Will the epoxy resin get through?
No, the opening is way too small. Thanks for watching!
@@electronicsNmore thanks!
Can you keep reusing the syringe and copper pipe for this?
No.
Hi Doug. Very well done has always. Looking forward to more how to videos.
All my best.
Bobby
Thanks Bob!
hi there i have a question which epoxy do i use hardener or resin i liked and subbed amazing channel!!
2 part epoxy resin. The resin must be high strength, very low viscosity. Don't use the 5 minute type, use 10 minute to 1 hour setting time epoxy.
Where can I find this exact Epoxy you used?
Been a long time. Just look for a low viscosity hard curing epoxy.
Do you think I will be able to do this with a medeco key? I just moved in to a new apartment and want to give my fiancé a key (they use it for the elevator here) but the manager is all over the place and I don’t get the impression that she’s going to be helping us get the licensed key copy ANY time soon. I’m worried that the epoxy won’t be strong enough and may break off in the lock and then we’ll be stuck paying for it. Any suggestions? Also, anything stronger than a pop can top?
Will epoxy glue work as well? Or will that stick to the Algae?
As long as it cures VERY hard and it's very low viscosity.
My other great video: th-cam.com/video/9BMdEYUdD5s/w-d-xo.html
Excellent description.
Can I also use pattex
Do you have any suggestion on how to mix the alginate smoothly? The product I used is Kromopan alginate. I find that the mixture dries up so quickly before I get to blend it up, and there are always a lot of particles and chunks left in the mixture. Also, after the one hour of setting, the alginate is still wet and breaks easily like jelly. I might have added too much water, but with less water, it was even harder to mix up the alginate. Would you mind providing the measurement of water and alginate that you used? Thanks!
You must've used a fast setting alginate. Using cold water slows down the setting.
@@electronicsNmore thanks for the reply! Cold water does help. Which alginate did you use? I find that my alginate keeps getting wet after it's set. It takes 24 hours for my resin to fully set, therefore during the process, the water gets into the resin and makes the key very soft. Should try a different alginate or a faster-setting resin?
Very nicely done.
Which low viscosity epoxy are you using? Thanks!
In the video I show what I used. Just look for high strength epoxy with low viscosity. Thanks for watching!
Wonder about mixing epoxy inside the corner of a ziplock bag with all the air sucked out, just mush it around, then cut the corner off to squeeze out. I never thought about it for not getting air in. Everyone mixing big things put it in a vacuum, I bet it would work.
Shane K No good. You really need to inject it. You can buy a syringe/needle for refilling ink cartridges. Thanks for watching!
This is awesome video.
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to share with all your friends, and rate thumbs up. You won't find another video like this online. :-)
this was an amazing video
Glad you enjoyed it! Be sure to share my channel with others, and rate thumbs up. Thanks
What about the flat metal piece from a fastener folder as the failsafe?
You can try whatever you like. Thanks for watching!
Is there an other product to use besides dental alginate? Anything I can buy at walmart?
Not that I know of.
Where do I buy dental alginate?
lol I was waiting for the duct tape great video.
is there an easier to obtain alternative to dental alginate? I was able to find some on amazon but it's a little expensive.
Have you seen this below? Thanks for watching!
amzn.to/3yh8d8j
(Amazon Affiliate Link)
@@electronicsNmore thanks! 350 dollars for a backup set of keys? I don't think so VW!
Would a 5000 psi epoxy resin work as well as the 1500 psi epoxy?
Hi Adam. As long as the viscosity of the epoxy is low, it should work fine. Be sure to rate thumbs up, check out my video playlists, share my channel with friends, and subscribe. Thanks
Very clever!
Thank you! Be sure to share with others, and rate thumbs up to offset all the channel hating Trolls. :-)
+electronicsNmore definitely man👍
Good video.
Could I use a pipette instead of a syringe?
No, the syringe is necessary. Thanks for watching!
Yeah cool for regular keys. But that key you copied has a transponder. Door might open if key didn’t snap off inside the door, but the cars alarm would get old quick.
You missed the purpose of the video. You're thinking too much.
I use a simple cut key for my car door and my alarm has never gone off. It's not like I drive an old shit box either.
Sir the item r more expensive than the things what I want to steal from my neighbor house
I believe this type of atack has been already shown in a good amount of videos... Not with alginate but with other things wich to me seem better...
No. I checked when the video was made. No one showed an epoxy injection method.
i like this idea
thanks
Be sure to share, and rate thumbs up. :-)
fine for opening your car but how you going to start it with out your chip yo?
The vehicle shown in this video is older, no chip. :-)
Hey what dental alginate did you use? Does it matter which one?
I think I used fast set, but regular set is fine. Be sure to check out my video playlists, rate thumbs up, and share. Thanks!
electronicsNmore awesome! Thanks. I did that, don't worry! I have never seen any videos like this before. This is so really original. You should have tons more views.
Very impressive.
I can't seem to find the correct epoxy. Can you give me an example that's for sale ?
Search online for low viscosity high strength epoxy. Thanks for watching!
Jbweld
How can we make a duplicate? Under we i mean the ones thet are not dentists?
Hi Karlo. I have another video about this.
th-cam.com/video/9BMdEYUdD5s/w-d-xo.html
Please share. Thank you!
thanks for vid ...
I bought dental alginate and it looked exactly the same but it was just so hard i couldn't even cut threw it...
I tried all kinds of amounts but it didn't work...
Please tell me exactly what kind of alginate i could buy from Amazon for example
Silicon was an option but its so expensive
This should work just fine.
amzn.to/2tEff4p
thanks!
- 00:00 🔑 The video introduces a method to create exact duplicates of various types of keys, including high-security and "do not copy" keys.
- 00:15 📹 The method demonstrated is not found on TH-cam or other online sources, making it unique.
- 00:50 🛠️ Required materials include fast-setting dental alginate, a syringe, a utility knife, epoxy resin, and various small tools.
- 02:20 ✂️ The process involves cutting and preparing a brass tube and syringe to ensure a snug fit for injecting the epoxy.
- 04:30 🧪 Mixing alginate is a crucial step, requiring it to be smooth and thin for proper key molding.
- 06:00 🔧 After setting the alginate, the key is carefully removed from the mold to maintain the mold's integrity.
- 07:20 🔨 A wire is used as reinforcement in the mold to prevent potential breakage of the epoxy key.
- 10:30 🧼 Epoxy resin is mixed carefully to avoid air bubbles and then injected into the key mold.
- 12:00 🕒 The mold should be filled with epoxy as soon as possible to avoid shrinkage, and the curing process is quick.
- 14:00 🔓 After curing, the key is removed from the mold, revealing a perfect duplicate that functions just like the original.
Are these really that durable? Have you ever had one snap off?
Well, it won't be as strong as a brass key, but if used carefully, it will work just fine. Strength also depends on the epoxy resin used. Remember, you're not making this key for everyday use. :-)
electronicsNmore is 1500 psi the strongest avalible? Or would a higher psi level be even better for this use?
electronicsNmore c
Will 7000 psi epoxy work better?
Makes no difference what you use, but it has to be very low viscosity. Thanks fro watching!
It's a two-part epoxy, and I suppose as viscous as that. How long does such a key last?
A very long time.
Is the key you made in this specific video still good today, or did it break between then and now?
It's kept as an emergency key in case the original is lost or locked inside the vehicle. This idea isn't intended for "Every Day" key use.
How many spoonfuls of powder do you need to put in
"Rise up," huh? Why, because you tried "rising down," but that just wasn't quite as good an option?
As a non-native English speaker, can someone please explain me what does PSI stand for?
Pounds per square inch. Compression strength.
Clever
Be sure to look over my "locksmith & bypass tools" video playlist. I have a newer and better version of this video. Please share. Thank you!
Clever !
Thanks. :-) Nothing like it online. :-) Be sure to share
So basically this is a video so you can have keys for areas you're not supposed to LOL
No. Some keys like the one shown in this video are expensive to duplicate. I wanted a spare key to hide outside in case I lock my keys inside the vehicle. Of course people will duplicate other keys as well.
@@electronicsNmore haha completely just joking I have a medico key I need to duplicate.
@@electronicsNmore would you happen to know will a key maker make the key if I go to him a locksmith I mean. I own the two keys it's not a matter of duplicating it and not having the original. But there the keys for my washer and dryer in my building and if I lose one we have to basically drill out the hole box. That's was my main reason for coming here.
I don't get these key duplication videos. It's unnessicary overcomplication. 100 parts saltpeter + 18 parts coal + 16 parts sulfur, pack well in a metal container, and apply fire. Opens just about any door you'll come across so well that you'll never need to open that door ever again.
If you don't understand a video like this, then that means you're probably around 10 years old.
Pretty sure he was making a joke, great video though.
Thank you now I can break into the white house 🤓
I think you making a boom!
I don't understand?
would it be possible to use play doh instead of that dental stuff? Great vid.
Pistol Pete not really
but can the car start though??
If you don't need a chip key(use a programmed key), then yes.
Genious! :)
Glad you enjoyed the video!
So I sez to the guy, I sez, you must be from Long Island.
Correct!
oh I though you also duplicate the RF circuitry as well :)
No, only the key. :-)
You can do that in plenty of easy ways, including using a 'learning' TV remote. I even had a watch in the 1990s that had a built in TV remote function that could 'learn' or just straight up copy any IR and RF signal. I think they stopped selling that particular model watch because people were using it to steal car alarm frequencies (you could stand about 30ft away from someone pressing their alarm fob and it would copy the signal, so you could then use the watch to deactivate the alarm) it works because I copied my fob in to it (it could store about 200 devices signals so I had my TV, stereo, vcr, car alarm and most of the other devices that had some kind of remote, IR and RF signal in my house stored in to that watch). Those were the days. It wasn't expensive either, it was around £29.99 from either Argos or Index store (can't remember which but they both sold it) in the UK. I have seen similar ones sold on eBay too. You can buy similar functioning devices from places like Ali express etc for virtually pennies (about £2.35 I've seen RF grabbers selling for on there).
you shoud have stated it better in your other key making video but o well next time. Still good.
No, the other video was just fine. One video showed a metal duplicated key, and the other showed an epoxy resin version. I do like the idea of a 3D printed key. I need to get out my printer. :-)
@@electronicsNmore the thing is their a program to scan a object in 3d? Printing is the easy part. Also the type of plastic to use is also important since theit are like 6 types I think. .
@@trench01 You'd have to scan each side then combine the image into one.
It doesn’t start the car tho
Depends what model/year
Last two lock videos clever but can be used by wrong people...if u catch my drift...
Many things shown on TH-cam and other places online, can be used by the wrong people, but the large number of good people shouldn't have to suffer as a result. :-) Thanks for watching!
what would be a good reason to make a temporary copy like this. as a backup?
thersten In case you lock your keys in the car and you only have one set because the keys are very expensive to make, or cheating spouses. :-)
thersten watch your keys? Personal responsibility?
Hey mr full of yaself,,, nah just kidding...looking at some of the comments, Algenate is another dental mould making material sorry ( mould U.K ) ( mold U.S ) anyway other than that any pourable silicon mould making rubber will do a better job ( not Latex ) it shrinks, Dow Corning do a wide range and yes it's eblag for a source in small quantity. Also silicon rubbers will last forever and you could cast thousands from one mould. No need to slit it either. One last point that Resin is strong but to make it even stronger you can add any fine metal powder to the mix you can get Brass, Copper, stainless steel, Aluminium etc etc.
hope this helps.
Hello. The Alginate works perfectly, and it cost MUCH less than pourable silicone. I have a video showing how I make custom ear plugs using pourable silicone. There is really no reason to have a reusable mold. Once the key is duplicated, I'm done with it. The slit is necessary to avoid damaging the mold when removing the key. The best additive would be very tiny metal fibers, powder won't do too much. When I pour concrete, I add tiny fibers to increase the strength. Thanks for watching!
"Don't damage it"? Because if you had told us not to, we might not have thought of that? Haha... :-P
High security is a push you wouldn't be able to start the car up anyway
Yes, the vehicle was older.
think it easier to get it copied
HUN WHAT SIZE IS HEAT SHRINK TUBING PLEASE ? SZYQZ
Just buy a small variety kit of heat shrink tubing.
Sir apache rtr180 bike me flip key install ki video banao please
Sick
if im gonna be a burglar, I am going to prep good
how r u gonna get the key in the first place
This shit is a fuckin mission to do fuck that!!