We are now at 13,000 miles and I have a NEW video where I change out all these parts - th-cam.com/video/Trmg6ck8L8U/w-d-xo.html - even tho the chain is just fine.
I seen a guy use a small c clamp and a nut just bigger than the chain rivets. You clamp down the nut on both rivets and it pushed that link right in so you can easily slide the clip right into place. Works like a charm and have used that method many times.
John, I have had the joy of putting new o-ring chains on bikes and when it comes to putting on the ML I couldn't help but think that it got the best of you. As the video cut and now the bike is in another room and then you walk over and just slide it on there. I was NO WAY!!!! Please tell me it wasn't that easy. LOL Thanks for the video, love d it.
I had to move to the smaller room because I didn't have enough light in the bay. The Master Link went on easy enough, though in the first shot I pout it on backwards, so that got flipped to the right orientation when I noticed it in the light. I have had some that were buggers to get on.
Good video. Funny how things have changed over the years. Back in the day, everyone carried master links and a chain breaker in their tool box. And knew how to use them. I still have my original chain breaker, it has to be 40+ years old.
For longer trips I carry a master and that fancy new breaker. I've read from several viewers that they did not know how to take the stock chain off, so... Thanks again for watching.
Trying to clean my garage for my new 450l but your video slowed me down. Now back to it. (I also took screen shots to remind me of what to get) 250miles and already been snowed on
I'd make a list of the add ons, but it changes so often it would never be up to date. I just swapped the CRF Bajaworx windscreen for a KTM Bajaworx windscreen.
@@gershomberg5408 It's slightly wider, taller, and fits my custom set up better. It still looks good on the 450L, but I noticed the plastic is a little thinner.
I couldn't get a 53 tooth on with that zeta chain guide and a 116link chain. It's almost like you need a 118 link lol or a really stretched 116. The teeth hit the top of the guide so I could trim the zeta but it doesn't leave you much room to that first bolt. Now I realize that TM design works sells a guide that will accommodate up to 3 more teeth in the rear. Great channel sir and I think you and Damon Bates should link up in the future and do the NEBDR!
Hi Tim, I just changed the chain and Sprocket and have an updated version of this video. I'll post it soon. I ended up with 117 links to the chain to get it to fit, and yes, it's very tight and wears the chain guide in very fast. Maybe Damon and I should do that. What a great idea. Do you know him? Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
@@JohnTYoung I just know of him as he is from new England and so am I ( New Hampshire). It's a small area so word gets around when someone gets a 450l lol plus there is a couple dual sport groups we both belong in so I see him in there. Keep up the great videos and thanks for the guidance! Cheers!
John T. Young I noticed when you checked your chain tension you first pushed down on the chain(before measuring) then measured from the lowest point, to the highest. Is that the correct way to do it? I’ve been measuring from the chains natural “relaxed” state to the highest but I’m probably doing it wrong. Thx
@@Rideskishore If you look at the picture on the swing arm it shows a high and a low line. If it is tight and not touching the slider it's not at it lowest point. On many motos there is no slider to stop the downward (or upward) motion of the chain, so you have to move it to take the slack out. I have found on the CRF450L that if the chain is laying loose on the slider it is probably too slack anyways. I hope that made sense!
Great video as always John. And at 40 minutes just the right amount for close-ups and explanation. That stock chain to last 6000 miles with what you say are 50-50 street and trail is actually pretty darn good so I'm not in a hurry to just put something nicer looking on mine. But your choices are perfect for what I would purchase as well. Two (2) questions: 1) I noticed after wiping off the crud for the front sprocket you didn't add any grease to the spline or gear. Did you do that but not show it? 2) How did you come up with starting you adjustment at the 4 1/2 or 5 or 5 1/2 tick marks? Why not start further in? The X-Ring chains and the incredible low maintenance you get installing one vs. an "O" ring is pretty significant after the initial 100+ miles and adjustment. I became a believer after I changed to one on my TW & XR250. Didn't realize what I was missing. Again, Thanks mike w.
Thank you! I sprayed it down with WD40. Sorry. I am really bad at showing EVERYTHING. I need to work on that. 2) I turned the chain adjustment bolts almost all the way in, with the chain on the sprocket I pulled the wheel back gently by hand, and started there. I'll work on my "script" so I stop forgetting things. Thanks for watching despite that.
Chain looks too tight to me... with you sitting on the bike have one of your buddies lean into the rear of the seat collapsing the rear suspension until the swingarm rear axle is in line with the pivot point of the front swing arm and have him grab the chain if there's no slack at all its too tight. I always found a little looser is better than tighter won't damage the transmission. Thanks for doing what you do.
Thank you, I've been watching your videos I'm really interested in the CRF 450RL thank you so much please keep it up. I currently ride a 2014 KTM 1190R which is a great bike but I want something smaller to get me down the trails I want to hit. I live in Asheville NC
Hey brother hope all is well. About to do this procedure with all same parts as you got along with rotor and pads because I washed my wheel with a rag that must have had a drop of motor oil on it which got on my rotor, contaminated the pads, attracted dirt which scratched the rotors. I have also been watching the bonus vid we all got after you graciously bent this sprocket for our benefit. Anyway I need to buy my first ever container of grease so what’s am I looking for to use on that DID chain, rear axle and front sprocket bearings ect and for just general purpose on our old girl. Hopefully I can keep all that grease away from her new rotor and pads😅. Please forgive my absurd level of cluelessness ima lover not a greaser. Have a great one madman.
6000 miles, so about 10,000 km. My KLR has 11,000 km on her and the same riding conditions you described. Looks like 6000 to 7000 miles is standard life for stock chain and sprockets. I apply chain lube at the end of every ride while chain is still warm, but running in the dirt is a killer.
My 450rl gives a total distance from the top of the swing arm to the full slack dimension of 55-60mm. I’ve always run a decent amount of slack in my dirt bikes but this dimension causes the chain to be pretty taut. At any rate this setup does eliminate chain slap that was ever present on my ‘05 crf450x. So unless I’m reading it wrong this is how I’m going to run it.
You do you Ross. The Honda manual, on the other hand, says 25-35mm of slack with the rear tire off the ground. I'm getting close to 10,000 miles out of chain before they go completely noodle.
@@JohnTYoung I wonder if there’s a difference between years? My ‘22 Honda manual says “lift the drive chain at the position shown and measure the distance from the upper surface of the swingarm.” Then it gives a dimension of 55-60mm. Just thought I would mention this because for years these bikes had bad chain slap and with my bikes recommendation I’m a little concerned about counter shaft issues. Thought you might have some insight.
@@JohnTYoung No, I’m just going a little nuts trying to get basic information. I’ve talked to Honda direct and my local Honda dealer. I used to be bike tech before going to the automotive world. Just simple stuff and it’s frustrating
@@Oldrush Since 90% of dirt bikers have been setting slack by placing 3 fingers between the chain and the slider and calling it good for 50 years I wouldn't obsess too much over it.
I guess u were just showing new people how to do this? I adjust the chain, same marks on both sides with someone of comparable weight sitting on the bike. Can always cut a link😊
surprised you used the clip style ML... grease those chain adjuster bolts viewers! How did the chain slider look after 6k miles? Such a great channel and bike, really hoping to put some miles on my 450L this year. Coming across this channel has been an inspiration, thanks John.
John, thanks for the great video, have you tried a 14T in the front, as Renthal now has a part number (508--520-14GP) listed for these, just curious if you know whether there is enough space for the chain to clear the case, here in Wisconsin I do a lot of road riding to/fro trail and would like to lower engine rpm at higher speeds, thanks in advance for your comments
I have not tried it. I’m going for low end grunt, not speed. And at 80 MPH I’m at 8000 RPM. Still in the power band. Plus my MPG is better at that higher rpm than low and chugging along. So I’ve added a tooth out back. But I would bet anything made by Renthal is quality.
Thanks John, i know how to do all this, but its nice to know someone does it like i do! Oh, can i get an update on what bumping up an extra tooth does for you? Been thinking the same thing, but i was going to go 2 teeth. I ride alot of tight singletrack
One tooth didn't make a HUGE difference in torque, but it did make a difference. Easier to wheelie for sure. I figured when I wore this sprocket out I'd add another tooth maybe. I still need to be able to do 80 on the highway after all.
Thanks, kinda what i figured. I really only ride 35-40 mph backroads pavement so i will go 2 teeth or maybe 3. I get all my practical info about mods from you and Brett at sr moto. Again, thanks for all the content! You are the best Guinea pig for ideas
Great vid john .I have my ervt chain on the way I was having a problem with my d606 130-90-18 hitting my chain .solo racer had that wider tire on their project bike and had no problem so hope that the chain is not as wide with less side to side movement from stock. I might not of adjusted the chain just right.
Hi john, last time I reached out I think I was about to purchase the crf450l. I did buy one and have only rode it about 40 miles. The temps are still below freezing in New York. I am very surprised by how much Honda tamed this engine. I have raced motocross on and off since I was 15, I am 48 now. I have owned 5 different year Honda 450’s. 02 04 16 17 and now the 19L model as well as a few from other manufacturers. I’m surprised but also very pleased. The r models were no good in woods. I tried trust me. I’m wondering if you have put a flywheel weight on yours. I’m guessing the L is going to stall in the tight sections of the trail. On my 17 I had Tokyo mods reflash the ecu to take it down a few notches. I’m hoping they can do the same with this one but bring it back to life a bit. It’s a very inexpensive mod less than $100 and it only takes about 3 days if you expires mail. I’m also reaching out to my moto budys for a stock exhaust from an r or x model. I just can’t justify spending 1000 on an exhaust currently. Have you done anything with your ecu? How about your suspension, have you serviced it yet? Do you jump your 450? Really impressed with you content, very informative! BTW chain maintenance is so important. Remember the further forward the wheel is in the adjusted the better it’ll wheelie because of the shorter wheelbase. Keep making these great videos. Thanks Matt
Thank you for watching. I did not try the weight, but I had thought about it. I've heard good things. I went with the ECU swap which fixed almost every short coming the bike had. That and exhaust and you get 90% of your ponies back. I "jump" it, sure, but not MX style jumps. I have not made any mods to the suspension and I'm not sure I want to. Seems about perfect for me. I've done the regular services you're supposed to do with no issues at all in 6000 miles.
@@lifescripted4923 Hey Matt, I liked your comment above. I pretty much hated (kind of strong) my bike in stock mode. The tires are horrible and it had running issues at low R's. It didn't have the power I expected either etc. After the break in period it did run better. But I put on the yoshi pipe and votex ECU and now it's the bike I wanted. New tires this week and I'm all set. Kind of lame to have to spend more dough after buying the bike but it was worth it. Your comment about trail riding concerns me as I felt like the power band isn't where I want it. I have to shift a lot more up and down than what I'm used too. But in all fairness I haven't been out yet on the trail this year with the ECU and pipe. I hate the tires so bad I am waiting until I get those.
Hi John Another excellent video. well explained and demonstrated. Thanks Question: What lube do you use for your chain, How often do you lube your chain.....and have you ever used a Pro Oiler or Scottoiler automatic system on your trail bikes? I installed one (Pro Oiler which works on distance covered; measured by GPS for drip frequency) on my African Twin for a long trip to the Patagonia and back and it works VERY well prolonging the life of the chain and reducing the frequency of adjusting for stretch (totally adjustable on the fly as well depending on surface/dust/rain conditions)...but wondering if and how it may work on the 450L? ..or if the 450L is set up for more/too "aggressive" handling? interested in your thoughts/comments. Stay safe.
My favorite chain lube is Motul Off Road. Coats really well and then "dries". But I also use gear oil and Renthal Lube (which is gear oil). I try to clean and lube every couple hundred miles depending on how bad the chain looks. Most of my riding is dusty double track, so it usually looks bad. If you get a good quality chain it ought to last 6 or 10 thousand miles. The CRF450L has half the horse power of the Africa Twin and is only pulling half the weight. Tho, keep in mind the chain is smaller as well. I've got almost 7000 miles on a D.I.D. EVRT and according to the pull test (try to pull the chain away from the back of the rear sprocket) it's still basically new. Thanks for your insight Mark.
Unless you replace the chain with the stock Honda super thin lightweight chain it's going to rub. But only in that one spot, unless you get the completely wrong size. My first chain swab rubbed that little nub off and that was the end of the rubbing.
Hi John, any issues with the foot brake light switch being exposed after taking the cover off? Finally getting around to taking these things off and doing other stuff... next up, SD Powerhouse kit. Thanks!
@@JohnTYoung yeah, I am sure there have been. It does flex, but not sure overall. I was thinking about making a carbon fiber guard until an issue comes along and then go pressure switch like you mentioned. I did order the SD Powerhouse setup mostly due to your bike and input, appreciate your experience!
Hi John, did you have any issues with the clip style master link. I've always used clip type on my bikes in the past with no issues but the bike shop recommended the rivit link.
Thanks for taking the time to do your videos! You are the source of info for my CRF450L mods and ideas! How do you like the 52T mod on your highway miles? Has it impacted cruising speed substantially? She’s somewhat up in the rev range with the stock final Drive gearing @ 60-65. Thanks ! .
You are welcome. What I've found is that the RPM matches the speed pretty well. 7000 RPM at 70MPH. Gas mileage has gone up on the highway because the engine isn't struggling so hard to push through the air at speed. I average 40 MPG doing 75 MPH with luggage! I used to get 35 to 38 and struggled to hold 80 MPH. Of course when you're just putting along it works out great. So far I'm loving the change.
John T. Young thanks for the repIy. thought you only changed the rear ratio and had 13 up front and 52 rear. That is shorter gearing than factory and would make mileage go down. I’m guessing you have changed to 14 up front then ? Thanks !
Hey john it is okay that the other side of the axel nut where you adjust the chain , is sitting a little sideways?for my bike it is a little slanted as well i was wondering if that was a issue
@@JohnTYoung awsome Thank You for all the info and such from all your videos... great work!!!!! My daughter and her husband just moved to denver so will be out that way a bunch. I can't wait to hit up some trails out there. Who knows might even run into you some time..... Be safe and always tie a safety knot !!!!!
I had a hard time to get the master link grooves so that i could see them. And could not install the clip. So i pressed the master links pins a little from the other side. Is the master link ruined now!??
You have to press it in pretty hard to past the grooves. Even without the clip the link ought to be secure. I used the pair of adjustable pliers and some muscle to get it on far enough. I would most definitely get a new master link. If your chain breaks it can break your engine case.
@@JohnTYoung Yea. Weird thing was that i used DID press tool. Maby the pins bottomed on the tool or something. Getting a new master link. Thank you for the response.
@@jagerson7 I thinkk you'll like it. They are very good in the dirt and have a stiff sidewall. They were devolved for heavier bikes, but the sidewall is both pinch resistant and tracks well in corners on pavement. Let me know what you think.
O-ring chains shouldn't really need to be lubed... just rust-proofed and cleaned. But just about every chain manufacturer recommends gear oil. After that, it's all just marketing.
We are now at 13,000 miles and I have a NEW video where I change out all these parts - th-cam.com/video/Trmg6ck8L8U/w-d-xo.html - even tho the chain is just fine.
you still rocking the 52t rear? I just bought a 49t rear in hopes that I'll get a little more length out of first and second gear
@AerialFidelity did it work cause I wanna do same thing?
I seen a guy use a small c clamp and a nut just bigger than the chain rivets. You clamp down the nut on both rivets and it pushed that link right in so you can easily slide the clip right into place. Works like a charm and have used that method many times.
Nice!
This is what I do also, works great
Thank you for taking the time to demonstrate.
You are very welcome.
John, I have had the joy of putting new o-ring chains on bikes and when it comes to putting on the ML I couldn't help but think that it got the best of you.
As the video cut and now the bike is in another room and then you walk over and just slide it on there. I was NO WAY!!!! Please tell me it wasn't that easy. LOL
Thanks for the video, love d it.
I had to move to the smaller room because I didn't have enough light in the bay. The Master Link went on easy enough, though in the first shot I pout it on backwards, so that got flipped to the right orientation when I noticed it in the light. I have had some that were buggers to get on.
Hey John ,
Thanks for all of the extra effort in filming and explaining . Great video. Ride safe.
Mark
Thanks you. Yes, filming talking and working triple the time it takes to get anything done. Triples the amount of swearing too.
@@JohnTYoung Hahaha I know right. But keep on doing what you do. We really appreciate it brother.
Mark
Good video. Funny how things have changed over the years. Back in the day, everyone carried master links and a chain breaker in their tool box. And knew how to use them. I still have my original chain breaker, it has to be 40+ years old.
For longer trips I carry a master and that fancy new breaker. I've read from several viewers that they did not know how to take the stock chain off, so... Thanks again for watching.
@@JohnTYoung You bet! Great videos, much appreciated. I just bought the same bike and your vids are very informative.
Trying to clean my garage for my new 450l but your video slowed me down. Now back to it. (I also took screen shots to remind me of what to get) 250miles and already been snowed on
I'd make a list of the add ons, but it changes so often it would never be up to date. I just swapped the CRF Bajaworx windscreen for a KTM Bajaworx windscreen.
I’m about to buy a screen, why Kim?
@@gershomberg5408 It's slightly wider, taller, and fits my custom set up better. It still looks good on the 450L, but I noticed the plastic is a little thinner.
I couldn't get a 53 tooth on with that zeta chain guide and a 116link chain. It's almost like you need a 118 link lol or a really stretched 116. The teeth hit the top of the guide so I could trim the zeta but it doesn't leave you much room to that first bolt. Now I realize that TM design works sells a guide that will accommodate up to 3 more teeth in the rear. Great channel sir and I think you and Damon Bates should link up in the future and do the NEBDR!
Hi Tim, I just changed the chain and Sprocket and have an updated version of this video. I'll post it soon. I ended up with 117 links to the chain to get it to fit, and yes, it's very tight and wears the chain guide in very fast. Maybe Damon and I should do that. What a great idea. Do you know him? Thanks for the suggestion and for watching!
@@JohnTYoung I just know of him as he is from new England and so am I ( New Hampshire). It's a small area so word gets around when someone gets a 450l lol plus there is a couple dual sport groups we both belong in so I see him in there. Keep up the great videos and thanks for the guidance! Cheers!
Another fantastic video John! Much appreciated the time you took on this one.
Thank you!
John T. Young I noticed when you checked your chain tension you first pushed down on the chain(before measuring) then measured from the lowest point, to the highest. Is that the correct way to do it? I’ve been measuring from the chains natural “relaxed” state to the highest but I’m probably doing it wrong. Thx
@@Rideskishore If you look at the picture on the swing arm it shows a high and a low line. If it is tight and not touching the slider it's not at it lowest point. On many motos there is no slider to stop the downward (or upward) motion of the chain, so you have to move it to take the slack out. I have found on the CRF450L that if the chain is laying loose on the slider it is probably too slack anyways. I hope that made sense!
John T. Young yes it does make sense. Thanks for the reply. I’ll now be checking tension correctly. Much appreciated!
Great video as always John. And at 40 minutes just the right amount for close-ups and explanation. That stock chain to last 6000 miles with what you say are 50-50 street and trail is actually pretty darn good so I'm not in a hurry to just put something nicer looking on mine. But your choices are perfect for what I would purchase as well. Two (2) questions:
1) I noticed after wiping off the crud for the front sprocket you didn't add any grease to the spline or gear. Did you do that but not show it?
2) How did you come up with starting you adjustment at the 4 1/2 or 5 or 5 1/2 tick marks? Why not start further in?
The X-Ring chains and the incredible low maintenance you get installing one vs. an "O" ring is pretty significant after the initial 100+ miles and adjustment. I became a believer after I changed to one on my TW & XR250. Didn't realize what I was missing.
Again, Thanks mike w.
Thank you! I sprayed it down with WD40. Sorry. I am really bad at showing EVERYTHING. I need to work on that. 2) I turned the chain adjustment bolts almost all the way in, with the chain on the sprocket I pulled the wheel back gently by hand, and started there. I'll work on my "script" so I stop forgetting things. Thanks for watching despite that.
Chain looks too tight to me... with you sitting on the bike have one of your buddies lean into the rear of the seat collapsing the rear suspension until the swingarm rear axle is in line with the pivot point of the front swing arm and have him grab the chain if there's no slack at all its too tight. I always found a little looser is better than tighter won't damage the transmission. Thanks for doing what you do.
6000 miles on that chain and sprocket now and all is well.
Looking sharp with the fresh haircut 😎😉😅👍
Thank you, I've been watching your videos I'm really interested in the CRF 450RL thank you so much please keep it up. I currently ride a 2014 KTM 1190R which is a great bike but I want something smaller to get me down the trails I want to hit. I live in Asheville NC
You're going to love it!
Hey brother hope all is well.
About to do this procedure with all same parts as you got along with rotor and pads because I washed my wheel with a rag that must have had a drop of motor oil on it which got on my rotor, contaminated the pads, attracted dirt which scratched the rotors.
I have also been watching the bonus vid we all got after you graciously bent this sprocket for our benefit.
Anyway I need to buy my first ever container of grease so what’s am I looking for to use on that DID chain, rear axle and front sprocket bearings ect and for just general purpose on our old girl.
Hopefully I can keep all that grease away from her new rotor and pads😅.
Please forgive my absurd level of cluelessness ima lover not a greaser.
Have a great one madman.
Red and Tacky grease is my fave.
@@JohnTYoung Perfect and thank you kindly.
Im sure the old Red and Tacky will treat me right as well.
6000 miles, so about 10,000 km. My KLR has 11,000 km on her and the same riding conditions you described. Looks like 6000 to 7000 miles is standard life for stock chain and sprockets. I apply chain lube at the end of every ride while chain is still warm, but running in the dirt is a killer.
My chain was double dead when I replaced it. Should have done it sooner.
My 450rl gives a total distance from the top of the swing arm to the full slack dimension of 55-60mm. I’ve always run a decent amount of slack in my dirt bikes but this dimension causes the chain to be pretty taut. At any rate this setup does eliminate chain slap that was ever present on my ‘05 crf450x. So unless I’m reading it wrong this is how I’m going to run it.
You do you Ross. The Honda manual, on the other hand, says 25-35mm of slack with the rear tire off the ground. I'm getting close to 10,000 miles out of chain before they go completely noodle.
@@JohnTYoung I wonder if there’s a difference between years? My ‘22 Honda manual says “lift the drive chain at the position shown and measure the distance from the upper surface of the swingarm.” Then it gives a dimension of 55-60mm. Just thought I would mention this because for years these bikes had bad chain slap and with my bikes recommendation I’m a little concerned about counter shaft issues. Thought you might have some insight.
@@Oldrush there is a difference and I apologize. Feel free to throw rocks at me. Does your manual specify rear wheel off the ground, or not?
@@JohnTYoung No, I’m just going a little nuts trying to get basic information. I’ve talked to Honda direct and my local Honda dealer. I used to be bike tech before going to the automotive world. Just simple stuff and it’s frustrating
@@Oldrush Since 90% of dirt bikers have been setting slack by placing 3 fingers between the chain and the slider and calling it good for 50 years I wouldn't obsess too much over it.
29:04 "now this is the shitty part" ... haha! love it ! Thanks a lot for these videos, awesome great work!
LOL. Thanks for watching!
I guess u were just showing new people how to do this? I adjust the chain, same marks on both sides with someone of comparable weight sitting on the bike. Can always cut a link😊
I don't have any friends to sit on my bike...
Love your videos John. Keep em coming please.
I will. Thank you!
Thanks, John
of course
surprised you used the clip style ML... grease those chain adjuster bolts viewers! How did the chain slider look after 6k miles? Such a great channel and bike, really hoping to put some miles on my 450L this year. Coming across this channel has been an inspiration, thanks John.
Just easier to deal with, but I understand your concern. Thank you. And thanks for watching!
John, thanks for the great video, have you tried a 14T in the front, as Renthal now has a part number (508--520-14GP) listed for these, just curious if you know whether there is enough space for the chain to clear the case, here in Wisconsin I do a lot of road riding to/fro trail and would like to lower engine rpm at higher speeds, thanks in advance for your comments
I have not tried it. I’m going for low end grunt, not speed. And at 80 MPH I’m at 8000 RPM. Still in the power band. Plus my MPG is better at that higher rpm than low and chugging along. So I’ve added a tooth out back. But I would bet anything made by Renthal is quality.
Thanks John, i know how to do all this, but its nice to know someone does it like i do! Oh, can i get an update on what bumping up an extra tooth does for you? Been thinking the same thing, but i was going to go 2 teeth. I ride alot of tight singletrack
One tooth didn't make a HUGE difference in torque, but it did make a difference. Easier to wheelie for sure. I figured when I wore this sprocket out I'd add another tooth maybe. I still need to be able to do 80 on the highway after all.
Thanks, kinda what i figured. I really only ride 35-40 mph backroads pavement so i will go 2 teeth or maybe 3. I get all my practical info about mods from you and Brett at sr moto. Again, thanks for all the content! You are the best Guinea pig for ideas
@@JohnTYoung I don't know the tooth count on the stocker but 1 tooth on the front equals 3 on the rear, just in case you weren't aware.
@@azlong4596 Stock is 13 and 51, and I was aware. Didn't want to go that many.
@@johnnym7904 You are very welcome. I like being a guinea pig!
John thanks for the video and info , what size motoz rallz ya running on the rear sir ?
120/100 18, I think.
Great vid john .I have my ervt chain on the way I was having a problem with my d606 130-90-18 hitting my chain .solo racer had that wider tire on their project bike and had no problem so hope that the chain is not as wide with less side to side movement from stock. I might not of adjusted the chain just right.
130 - 90 should be fine. Maybe something else is out of wack?
Hi john, last time I reached out I think I was about to purchase the crf450l. I did buy one and have only rode it about 40 miles. The temps are still below freezing in New York. I am very surprised by how much Honda tamed this engine. I have raced motocross on and off since I was 15, I am 48 now. I have owned 5 different year Honda 450’s. 02 04 16 17 and now the 19L model as well as a few from other manufacturers. I’m surprised but also very pleased. The r models were no good in woods. I tried trust me. I’m wondering if you have put a flywheel weight on yours. I’m guessing the L is going to stall in the tight sections of the trail. On my 17 I had Tokyo mods reflash the ecu to take it down a few notches. I’m hoping they can do the same with this one but bring it back to life a bit. It’s a very inexpensive mod less than $100 and it only takes about 3 days if you expires mail. I’m also reaching out to my moto budys for a stock exhaust from an r or x model. I just can’t justify spending 1000 on an exhaust currently. Have you done anything with your ecu? How about your suspension, have you serviced it yet? Do you jump your 450? Really impressed with you content, very informative! BTW chain maintenance is so important. Remember the further forward the wheel is in the adjusted the better it’ll wheelie because of the shorter wheelbase. Keep making these great videos. Thanks Matt
Thank you for watching. I did not try the weight, but I had thought about it. I've heard good things. I went with the ECU swap which fixed almost every short coming the bike had. That and exhaust and you get 90% of your ponies back. I "jump" it, sure, but not MX style jumps. I have not made any mods to the suspension and I'm not sure I want to. Seems about perfect for me. I've done the regular services you're supposed to do with no issues at all in 6000 miles.
John T. Young thanks for getting right back. Keep up the great content.
@@lifescripted4923 Hey Matt, I liked your comment above. I pretty much hated (kind of strong) my bike in stock mode.
The tires are horrible and it had running issues at low R's. It didn't have the power I expected either etc.
After the break in period it did run better. But I put on the yoshi pipe and votex ECU and now it's the bike I wanted.
New tires this week and I'm all set. Kind of lame to have to spend more dough after buying the bike but it was worth it.
Your comment about trail riding concerns me as I felt like the power band isn't where I want it.
I have to shift a lot more up and down than what I'm used too. But in all fairness I haven't been out yet on the trail this year with the ECU and pipe.
I hate the tires so bad I am waiting until I get those.
Hi John
Another excellent video. well explained and demonstrated. Thanks
Question: What lube do you use for your chain, How often do you lube your chain.....and have you ever used a Pro Oiler or Scottoiler automatic system on your trail bikes? I installed one (Pro Oiler which works on distance covered; measured by GPS for drip frequency) on my African Twin for a long trip to the Patagonia and back and it works VERY well prolonging the life of the chain and reducing the frequency of adjusting for stretch (totally adjustable on the fly as well depending on surface/dust/rain conditions)...but wondering if and how it may work on the 450L? ..or if the 450L is set up for more/too "aggressive" handling? interested in your thoughts/comments.
Stay safe.
My favorite chain lube is Motul Off Road. Coats really well and then "dries". But I also use gear oil and Renthal Lube (which is gear oil). I try to clean and lube every couple hundred miles depending on how bad the chain looks. Most of my riding is dusty double track, so it usually looks bad. If you get a good quality chain it ought to last 6 or 10 thousand miles. The CRF450L has half the horse power of the Africa Twin and is only pulling half the weight. Tho, keep in mind the chain is smaller as well. I've got almost 7000 miles on a D.I.D. EVRT and according to the pull test (try to pull the chain away from the back of the rear sprocket) it's still basically new. Thanks for your insight Mark.
@@JohnTYoung Thanks John
You didn't show the space in-between the case and the chain. Any wear on the case since you installed this ?
Unless you replace the chain with the stock Honda super thin lightweight chain it's going to rub. But only in that one spot, unless you get the completely wrong size. My first chain swab rubbed that little nub off and that was the end of the rubbing.
Very cool garage!! What kind of chain wax are you using?
Thanks. I had been using Motul wax but found it rusted my chain. Now I use oil.
Hi John, any issues with the foot brake light switch being exposed after taking the cover off? Finally getting around to taking these things off and doing other stuff... next up, SD Powerhouse kit. Thanks!
I have not had a problem but I'm sure others have. It's pretty exposed. Many are upgrading the spring/manual switch to a pressure switch.
@@JohnTYoung yeah, I am sure there have been. It does flex, but not sure overall. I was thinking about making a carbon fiber guard until an issue comes along and then go pressure switch like you mentioned. I did order the SD Powerhouse setup mostly due to your bike and input, appreciate your experience!
Hi John, did you have any issues with the clip style master link. I've always used clip type on my bikes in the past with no issues but the bike shop recommended the rivit link.
They fall off all the time. I carry two spares. I’ll be switching soon
When adjusting the chain slack, is the rear tire suspended in the air ?
According to Honda, yes.
Thanks for taking the time to do your videos! You are the source of info for my CRF450L mods and ideas! How do you like the 52T mod on your highway miles? Has it impacted cruising speed substantially? She’s somewhat up in the rev range with the stock final Drive gearing @ 60-65. Thanks ! .
You are welcome. What I've found is that the RPM matches the speed pretty well. 7000 RPM at 70MPH. Gas mileage has gone up on the highway because the engine isn't struggling so hard to push through the air at speed. I average 40 MPG doing 75 MPH with luggage! I used to get 35 to 38 and struggled to hold 80 MPH. Of course when you're just putting along it works out great. So far I'm loving the change.
John T. Young thanks for the repIy. thought you only changed the rear ratio and had 13 up front and 52 rear. That is shorter gearing than factory and would make mileage go down. I’m guessing you have changed to 14 up front then ? Thanks !
@@tccalvo Nope. Still a 13 up front.
@@JohnTYoung - you are running 13 / 52 gearing on a street legal bike? Isn't that MX and/or Enduro racer gearing?
Stock is 13/51.
I’d like to see you Jaws of Life that chain.
What a great idea!!!!!!!!!!!
hi! john, do you ever think of replacing your clutch w/ the hydraulic clutch actuator?
I have not, tho if I rode more single track I certainly would consider it.
Very useful video thank you
Thank you!
Hey john it is okay that the other side of the axel nut where you adjust the chain , is sitting a little sideways?for my bike it is a little slanted as well i was wondering if that was a issue
As long as it in the groove and not out side it, it should be ok.
hey mate do you have a link for the heel gaurd near the rear sprocket, i cant seem to find one at all.. cheers
Here ya go - soloracer.com/crf450lheelgrd.html
@@JohnTYoung thanks mate 👍👍
Was they're any weight saving with the D.I.D chain compared to stock? I've heard D.I.D chains are pretty lightweight.
Oh no. The DID chain is much beefier than the stock chain. DID lasted 4 times longer too.
@@JohnTYoung Is the oem rear sprocket made of steel or aluminum? When I get my 450l I'm going to install a renthal ultra light aluminum sprocket.
@@repto15 It's steel for longevity.
@@JohnTYoung Thanks for answering my questions, really enjoy the good content on your channel.
- Cheers from Missouri
Do you think you need the speedodrd calibrator from 12 ocklock labs after changing the sprocket size?
The gear indicator still seems to work fine and the bike registers speed off the front tire, so no?
@@JohnTYoung awesome thx boss 👍
How much mph did the biger rear sprocket take off the top end? And did it help with tight one lanes up in the mountains?
Added 200 RPM at 60 MPH so not much at all. Worked great for the technical step ups. Highly recommend for wheelies.
@@JohnTYoung awsome Thank You for all the info and such from all your videos... great work!!!!!
My daughter and her husband just moved to denver so will be out that way a bunch. I can't wait to hit up some trails out there. Who knows might even run into you some time..... Be safe and always tie a safety knot !!!!!
Btw, what license plate holder did you go with? Thanks.
Flatland Racing. Cheap and thick. LOL.
I snapped my chain on my electric trail and the chain got caught up in my front sprocket and ripped a hole in my motor. Still have that hole in there
Chains are vicious!
Use JB weld in the hole.
I had a hard time to get the master link grooves so that i could see them. And could not install the clip. So i pressed the master links pins a little from the other side. Is the master link ruined now!??
You have to press it in pretty hard to past the grooves. Even without the clip the link ought to be secure. I used the pair of adjustable pliers and some muscle to get it on far enough. I would most definitely get a new master link. If your chain breaks it can break your engine case.
@@JohnTYoung Yea. Weird thing was that i used DID press tool. Maby the pins bottomed on the tool or something. Getting a new master link. Thank you for the response.
NP. Take your time and remember you have to squish the O ring so that can make it feel hard too.
does the chain come lubed already
Waxed or oiled, yes. FOr rust prevention only.
does the chain come lubed. i just bought one and it feels lubricated already
They coat it with something to keep it from rusting. It should be lubed internally. You should still add something to the chain/sprockets
@@JohnTYoung will maxima chain wax work?
Sure. It’s just to keep it from rusting. I’m not a fan of wax, but some are.
I doubt half the people who watch this know what GREY MARKET is and yes you are getting old, join the club.
This club... will there be coffee?
Luzianna Long, there are 4 views and you and i know what grey market means, lol. There is the half
@@JohnTYoung Coffee makes me pee all the time so I don't partake a good stiff shot of water,ick.
@@johnnym7904 We are probably the better half too.
What front tire are you running? I tried the GT216AA and it’s too scary on the road.
MotoZ RallZ . Works well but it is still a knobby.
John T. Young thanks I just ordered one I will give it a try
@@jagerson7 I thinkk you'll like it. They are very good in the dirt and have a stiff sidewall. They were devolved for heavier bikes, but the sidewall is both pinch resistant and tracks well in corners on pavement. Let me know what you think.
John T. Young will do!
I got the motoz rallz front mounted up and tried some road and trails I’m very pleased great tire next is gearing for my 450l
What’s the best lube for the chain
O-ring chains shouldn't really need to be lubed... just rust-proofed and cleaned. But just about every chain manufacturer recommends gear oil. After that, it's all just marketing.
@@JohnTYoung thnx Big John 👏🏽
@@JohnTYoung thnx Big John 👏🏽
Correct 👌 you definitely dont want any slop in ya shaft 😅
Are you a firefighter?!
I was. I've been a lot of things. I'll probably be a lot more.
It’s called a self cleaning sprocket
Sure is! Thanks for watching.
Why not just cut the chain all the way off with the cutoff wheel?
Then I would not have gotten to show everyone how to use the press.
Good point....lol
@@flash1034 :)
Why did you break the chain you had the grinder out just cut it off.
I feel like you're bored today. No plans to ride?
@@JohnTYoung middle of the week, have to work.