Helios 44-2 refurb. instructions (2nd MUCH more detailed part! Attention: VERY LONG!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ม.ค. 2013
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ATTENTION: VERY long BUT detailed lens refurbishment description (2nd part). Hope you enjoy it!
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/ austriangeek - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Thank you very much for this video! I am so happy I found it as I was about to throw away a faulty Helios 44 (first model I guess) since the focus-ring was so stiff I barely could turn it. But after watching this video I disassembled it and got new grease in there and now it's working as new again!
Hi, I just take my Helios 44 2-58 zebra to clean the focusing thread.
You're the best. This tutorial is super detailed and I removed all the crappy factory grease with kerdan and isopropanol. the thread is clean without any grease and is perfectly smooth, even better than new lenses. thanks !!!
this is so fantastic and detailed. thank you, AustrianGeek.
Thank you very much for this video, i have some russian lenses and your detailed instructions are very helpful for me.
Just saw this and it was a huge help in allowing me to clean and lube my Helios 44-2 which was the Zebra one, but about the same age as the one in the video.
I might add that the reason the ring at 34:40 in the video would not stay on is that the pins are not lined up over the indentations underneath, because you can't get the ring on far enough to line them up over the indentations. The reason that it is not possible to do that, and the reason that it falls off even if the screws are all the way in, is that the ring which is reassembled at 30:30 in the video was either screwed in one turn too many or one turn not enough, my guess. It is possible for this piece to screw in one or two turns more than would place the screw holes directly above the factory indentations. The factory indentations are not always directly under the holes in this ring if you screw the ring all the way to the point it stops. If you screw it down that far, until it stops, it is possible to place the three set screws and everything seems stable, but this ring (the one you are working with at 30:30) is not in the proper position for everything that follows to fall into place correctly. You need to actually look through the holes as you turn it down and stop when you see the shiny indentation underneath, and place the setscrews there. If that had been done, then there is no problem placing the ring which you were trying to place at 34:40, and not only does that ring stay on when you tighten its setscrews, but infinity lines up perfectly as well.
Not being critical, but the same thing happened to me. The factory did not always screw that center ring (at 30:30) down until it stopped before the placed the setscrews and indentations for the setscrews.
Great video, though. Many thanks.
Helps a lot from your video, thank you 🎀
This info was just what I needed. I have 3 Helios 58mm lenses 2x M42 and 1x M39. The M39 had a focus which wasn't smooth so I took it apart while watching this video. Great info and easy to follow. Now it is smooth again and I also cleaned the inside of the front glas. I use the M42 lenses on my GF5 and GH3 such a great result with the Helios lenses. Because I don't want another mount for M43 I ordered a canon converter so I can give it to a friend with a Canon :) (I allready have M42 FD MD FourThird Pentex lenses and converters :P) Old lenses are fun to play with. You deserve more then 1 like from me on this video :)
Thank you so much for the information, I didnt know that the bokeh comes from the type of the blades and now I know.
Appreciated.
Lol, I know it's off topic, but I like the pattern and shapes too. I have to try it myself soon. By the way, your video reviews a very useful and thorough. I've watched most of the Edelkrone FocusPlus+ videos and you did a very good job. Thanks.
Nice video.... I also clean some lenses. And it's also my turn... Assemble disassemble and insert a screw, with a different thread, using taps🍀🍀
I love my 44-2, it's an awesome lens. Mine is 1974 made, still perfect.
Yes. The Helios (a few versions of it at least) have always this "wobbling" at the back. Sometimes more - sometimes less - and sometimes it´s not THAT present, because the grease is dampening the "clicking" noise. Btw.: Thx for linking ^^
Thx for the kind words =)
This is the best disassembly video I have seen. I have a Helios 44-2 which has what I can best describe as focus backlash. That means that when I turn the focus ring with the hills and valleys the ring moves but the distance does not change immediately. Do you know if this is due to wear, sloppy tolerances, or if this would improve if I re-greased the lens. Any input would be appreciated.
thank you so much!
Thank you for this! Is there a way to add more tension to the aperture ring? Mine is really loose and the slightest touch changes the F stop. Thank you!
You can theoretically add more tension by using a "thicker" grease for it. Normaly there are multiple greases in use on lenses anyways. One for the helicoid / optical mechanics and then others for the aperture rings / focus rings etc. Thankfully its not that important what you use on the Helios 44-2 - As there is no plastic or rubber in use (on plastic and rubber parts its more critical what grease you use - As wrong ones can dissolve those materials over time - White lithium / lithium grease is for example normaly critical - If I have it right in my backhead). LG
thanks a lot ! I was about to buy at filmmaker version of Helios 44-2 from Retro Foto House on Ebay but then he raised price from $159 to $179 so now i will just refurb the one i already own.... 179 is too high, maybe i will start making filmmaker versions as well. THANK YOU !
The Zenitar M is also very good. Wonder if this tutorial would work for it too? I think they are KMZ (prism logo) lenses, but F1.7!
Good question - Never had this particular model / lens in my hands. BUT: Many of the old lenses are opening up quite similar.
Hi AustrianGeek,
I have a couple lens with broken diaphragm. Do you repair lens with this kind of problems as well?
Cheers.
+Vicente Fontanella Well - Normally I don´t repair lenses for others - Sorry.
Why? The problems are: I am here in Europe -> And the shipment is often quite expensive (most of the time it´s even pricier than the overall lens value). Beside that I can never assure, that fixing the lens is even possible (as there´s always the risk that the screws are stuck, breaking off or their heads are turning / wearing off -> When trying to unscrew them for example). Also many other things can go wrong (especially with the aperture mechanics - Which are most of the time quite critical to fix).
Beside that it´s "eating up" ALOT of time (which is more or less "free" if you make it yourself) - AND it also makes fun to fix lenses btw. ^^. Especially if you have alot of them lying around, it makes sense to get the tools to repair them. Btw.: I also plan to make a video / tutorial about the Yashica ML lens lineup (and about new "real" optical grease I am testing actually). The Yashica ML lenses are easy to fix and super cheap (with good optical performance). Just mentioning them because: If you plan to start with fixing lenses -> Then get such a lens to start with. The Yashica ML 50mm F1.7 for example - Priced WAY below 50 bucks - Even got one (normal used) for about 15 bucks as a spare / for replacement parts.
I am glad your "lens cooking" helped ^^. I hope you dried it properly in a oven or so afterwards. Btw.: I meant to put it in the oven directly - Without cooking it before *g*. But it helped - so who cares ..
About the grease: Yes. The grease I used is kind of a special purpose grease (which SHOULD BE stable over a longer period of time - to be precise: It´s RC car racing grease for ball bearing departments). But you can also use multipurpose grease (i used such one already at other lenses).
I can not manage to screw of the top, what you do in the beginning. How much force I will apply to it, it doesn't move an millimeter.
Had that too with other 44-2 lenses. With some it´s just not possible to open them up.
It´s better to sell your actual one and get another one instead to fix (if you really want to try to open it up / fix it).
I know - It´s not a fix for your actual lens - But before you´re damaging the lens, it´s the better way ...
Thanks for the response.
I already have fixed/cleaned one of the two lenses I got that won't open up. With the first one it took quite a bit of time. So I wondered if my second lens could be a more easy fix, but it also won't open up the nice way :(
Luckily it won't affect image quality, so I can still sell it on.
Hey! My Helios 44-2 (1983, made by Valdai as yours I think) has a wobbly mount, do you know why? I tried to took apart de optical shell, but in mine Helios it's imposible to remove the optical shell form de mecanical shell! Help!
Hmm. As far as I know mine is a KMZ model. The "wobbly" mount is a little bit because of the loosened up limiter pin at the back of the lens (which holds the inner shell in position when focusing). You can see it in the groove of the outher shell / M42 mount part of the 44-2 moving forward and backward when focusing. Btw.: Watch 26:41 (there I am showing it / mentioning it).
About opening it up: I know. Many 44-2s are not easy to open up. I also had another (newer) model, where it wasn´t possible. BUT: The "wobbly" mount is more or less normal with the 44-2 lenses. And it´s only getting a LITTLE BIT better (when you´re screwing in the limiter pin again) - There will be always some "play" and "wobble" left. SO: If the mechanics are ok and well greased, you don´t need to open it up. And I also don´t recommend to do it (because it´s just not necessary ^^).
i'm affraid i didn't, but here's the thing: the elements don't line up after rescrewing it all, see the video response. do you have any idea's why? thanks again for your advice.
hi austrian geek, thanks for your video. i have a problem: the ring at t=26m3s is stuck, can't move it. do you have any suggestions?
You don´t need to open up your lens. This little wobbling is normal with the Helios 44-2. I had already two of them (this older KMZ and a newer KMZ). And both were wobbling (it´s maybe a half millimeter).
To be precise: It´s the small limitation pin at the back (which is normaly not 100% perfect fitting the back part). But that you cannot fix that easily. You would have to replace the pin completely.
But I think it´s still a VERY nice lens.
So have fun with it and thx for the kind words! ^^
exact, I could not unscrew the ring that holds the front lens and even the internal optical group that you unscrew the front.
Hello, first, thanks for making this video, helped me a lot. But i have one problem, 2 screws from that piece at 32:09 broke inside their holes when i was screwing, do you know the size of these screws and if i can use a clock screw as replacement? Also, do you what kind o f metal that piece is made? because maybe i will need to dissolve the screws
Well - The screws are really crappy yes. I also used a replacement screw for one of the outer parts (as you saw also in the video). But I never checked which type they are exactly (I don´t even know, if it´s possible to get replacement screws - As these are EXTREMELY small grub / headless screws.
For the outer part I just used one of the screws of the clock repair (screw) kit you can see in the video (the round red one) - I think it didn´t even fit perfectly - But it worked ^^. So it´s at least an option yes.
About your problem directly: Hmm. You can make it easy - Just drill the stuck ones out and cut a new (bigger) thread, which is also fitting the replacement screws perfectly (also cut the non-stuck thread new). Would be for sure the best way (IF you have the option to get good tools to do so). About dissolving the screws: I think they are out of cheap / weak steel - Not hard V2A / V4A or similar. BUT: I wouldn´t do that. It makes no sense (as it´s better to cut new threads). AND there´s a high risk, that you´re ruining your threads anyway (the original cut ones).
LG
AustrianGeek Thank you very much for the response. About the screws, i've ordered some of the smaller avaiable sizes of the DIN 553 grub screw, they're hex and not slotted, but if it fits then i'll post here, also i will try to find a dremel to drill the broken screws out.
Well - Post your experiences here =)
Question, I have Helios 44M-4 do you know how can I make it permanent Swirl Bokeh please?
Thanks./
Without watching the full video, sorry.
Have you got any advice on what to do, if the focus ring becomes loose?
+Computing.Sound Well - There are grub screws which are maybe loose (and which you need to re-tighten). Check out 22:37 to see the screws.
If you´re talking about the whole focus mechanism wobbling, then the grease is maybe gone / too dry (and it´s not compensating the wobbling anymore).
Btw.: It´s also possible that the grub screws are broken. Then you need to replace them with other ones. I had luck and I found one in a clock repair kit I had lying around.
+AustrianGeek Thanks. The focusing ring went completely loose while close-focusing. Now the ring rotates very loose without changing the focusing distance. So no getting around taking the lens apart?
Well - You can try to tighten the grub / headless screws. Maybe it´s enough to lock it down again. Though: If they broke, you need to replace them.
And yes it did, thanks so much! i put it in a pan and submerged it in hot boiled water and left it for 15 minutes and it came off.the threads were full of [aluminium] shreds that were corroded. it's fixed now. One last question: what kind of grease did you use? Is it multipurpose grease or a special kind? Heißlagerfett seems special pursose grease...
Why I can't remove front lens on my 44-2
Hi AG,
This is my second time arriving at your video, hell you are good. I wish there was somebody like you in Ireland servicing these types of lenses, they would make good money....move over!!! I'll give you a room to stay for a few weeks (I'm serious)...... Anyway would you please make a video for the Mir 20M please?. I just bought one that was 'never used' and as usual the fecking grease is as stiff as my dead grandmother.
I really want to open it up but am nervous as they are not cheap (For a Russian lens) but they are worth every penny, they are so goo.......
Quentin Cooper Well - Normally I am not servicing THAT much lenses. I just try to open them up (and if it´s possible - I try to fix them). ^^
The primary problem is, that it´s quite hard to get "acceptable" lenses in non-pristine condition to fix them (and especially to try out how to open them up - As I don´t want to open up pristine lenses - As there is a risk to break or damage something). And also the lower price (of non-pristine glass) is necessary - Otherwise it wouldn´t be possible finance wise, as it´s only a hobby (Btw.: Also my videos are just hobby). That´s also the point why I sell about 9 of 10 parts I review / test out ^^.
The problem with the MIR-20M is, that it´s quite hard to get one. And if there´s one available it´s priced around 150$ (or even above) - Especially the later multicoated models. Anyway - You can try to open it up by yourself. Especially the russian lenses are normaly quite "basic" design wise. And even if you don´t succeed, you can easily put them together again. But be patient (and note or remember where each screw sits) ^^.
Maybe I´ll make a video (if there´s a good offer in the future). But I doubt that there will be one. Most cheaper offers have fungus - And such lenses are no option for me (as fungus isn´t fixable - At least not completely).
Have a nice day. ^^
Hello what can o use to clean the barrel of this lens ? The outside of the barrel is dasty and needs also grease inside , thank you
Is it just dusty outside? Then you can use warm soap water and an old toothbrush for example (just be aware, that nothing should get inside the lens or do it if its disassembled). Or I also tend to use a mixture of isopropyl, a little bit of soap and water (with a ratio of 1:4 or so - 1 parts iso to 4 parts water). Its mixing really good with water - Just be careful with isopropyl in general. The soapwater method should be "safer" ^^. The grease leftovers inside the barrel if you disassembled it you have to brush out too (there you can use pure iso to remove the leftovers you don´t get off mechanically / with other methods).LG
@@AustrianGeek i open the lens and clean it , very well , i turned the front element upside down , and i see that it focus beyond infinity is that normal or i set it back wrong ? All though with the split image focusing it doesn't seem any problems
@@tasost2161 So you flipped the front element? I am not sure now, if you should do that ^^. But if it works optically, it culd be, that you remounted the whole lens barrel on a non perfect position (regarding the focusing ring). I tend to readjust the mounting point of the barrel on the final adapter I will use with the opened lens. That way you can "tune in" the mounting position of the focus ring to infinity over the camera display (and you will hit the lens limiter pin exactly on the infinity point in the future ^^). Btw.: If you don´t care that you get beyond infinity, its also not a big deal. You will loose though a little bit of close focusing capability / range. But as its not a floating lens design (just the whole block extending) with the Helios 44-2, its not making a difference optically. LG
@@AustrianGeek i flipped the front element , it gives a nice background and dreamy
At one point when talking about cleaning the aperture blades, you mention that you have already cleaned them as good as is useful. However your blades are still way too oily. They shouldn't be shiny. The oil reflects light around the inside of the barrel and creates odd light flares and aberrations.
The pivot points on the blades need the tiniest amount of lubrication but there shouldn't be any oil on the visible parts of the blades.
No it is like that, I dont want to remove the blades and leave it open at all time. What I want is this:
1- Sometimes the bokeh in this lens gives that swirly look (sometimes)
2- I want to enforce it to happen at all times, is there a way?
I just got my helios 44-2 and i can feel its dirty inside and it grinds. I cant seem to twist it open tho to separate the two parts. I've tried everything I can think of, rubber gloves, rubber bands ect for better grip, but no movement. Do you have any suggestions on how to open it?
Hmm. Is it definitely a 44-2 (not a 44M or 44M-4 or so)? Well - It could be secured with thread locker. Heat is helping there sometimes (you could try to put it on a radiator for example and let it "heat through" - No plastic parts in there - So it should not do any harm to the lens (but you´re doing that on your own risk - Keep that in mind ^^). If its then still not opening up I would just go for another one - They are super cheap available and some just "don´t want" to get opened. LG
@@AustrianGeek Thanks for the radiator idea. Will give it a try. And yes I'm sure it's a 44-2. Why would anyone thread lock a lens?? :(
@@robinoja Well - Some of the lenses get locked I guess, so they are not opening up by themselfs. Fun fact: I only opened the 44-2 in this video at first place, as it got loose by itself ^^.
As long as the thread locker is only applied in low quantities and its a "weaker" one (not a heavy duty) you should be able to open it up. But who knows what they applied there.
Btw.: I only recommend weaker threadlockers in general (I use the purple coloured Loctite 222 for example). Its more than strong enough for 99% of the applications, and its not too strong to get it off / to detach it again ^^.
Is your avatar a romanesco broccoli? I saw one for the 1st time today. How does it taste?
FIRST Thank so much for video , I have already clean one completely but the other one I have problem on first step to turn clockwise on apatur ring it very tight so
can you help me please suggestion trick or something
Apichaht Ananruttanasakul Goot to hear, that the video is still helping people.
About the stuck lens - Hmm. I also had such a 44-2. Well - You can try to warm it up a little bit - So the thread lock is lossening up enough (though you need to heat it up a little bit longer - So the inner thread is also warmed up - Just don´t apply too much heat ^^). And you can use rubber sheets to have a better grip on the lens (and on the right parts of the lens) to open it up. But I also have to mention: If you´re unlucky, it´s not possible to open it up - Sometimes it´s really better to sell a lens and get another one to refurbish it (instead of damaging it). Btw.: Actually I also refurbished a complete set of Yashica ML primes. Also quite nice glass btw. - But I also had already two ML lenses in my hand, where screws were / got stuck. So it wasn´t possible to refurbish them. That´s life ^^. LG
AustrianGeek
It help so much i will try
Hmm. Do you mean just the fron lens element / glass? Or the whole front part / barrel? If you mean the whole barrel: It´s not possible with some Helios 44-2 lenses. I also had a newer revision where it wasn´t possible (or let´s say it this way: Where the risk of a damage was too high, if I tried to open it up with too much force).
Maybe it´s stuck. Do you have a "lens opener"? If not - maybe get one (it´s not THAT expensive). And it´s a VERY nice tool especially if you plan to open up other lenses too.
Oh. That you mean. Hmm. As far as you didn´t forget to put in the correction ring - which is regulating the distance of the inner shell to the outer one and is normaly sticking inside the outer shell (so it´s normaly not falling out) - this offset is ok and normal. It was the same with my Helios 44-2 lens (you can see it within the first part of the cleaning series). And don´t forget: The aperture markings are moving. So it´s also important which aperture setting you are using actually. =)
Hmm. Do you mean the scratching of the focus ring or ...? The reassembling is quite annoying with the Helios 44-2 - yes. You have to ensure that EVERY screw is again there screwed inside the lens where it was (because otherwise they are maybe scratching on the focus ring or somewhere else). AND you also need to do that, so the focus ring is aligned properly again (even).
Or do you mean something else?
Hmm. Did you check if there is maybe one of the headless / grub screws still inside (maybe one broke off or it´s still screwed in too much - if you didn´t unscrew them completely)? Because normaly this ring SHOULD be removable quite easy.
Or (if it´s not one of the screws): Maybe heat it up a little bit (if there is grease or something else inbetween the parts that maybe helps). Btw.: Don´t forget - It´s a vintage full metal lens. Don´t be scared to heat it up a little bit ^^.
Hope that helps.
Btw.: To remove the oil completely, I think you have to remove the aperture blades (OR: "Wash out" the oil somehow - Altough don´t do this - That´s not very environment friendly and you need the right oil for the pivot points afterwards). Btw: The "shinyness" is away after it dried -> The cleaner makes it shiny (but it´s gone quite fast). I know of the problem with the reflections. Mine got nearly oil free with the normal method I showed. Just a few minor signs are still visible when using it.
sorry to waste your time, Geek :)
what i mean is that when i screw down the 2 main components, the 2 red dots of the diaphragm rings do not line up with the red distance triangle. i just can't get my brain around that.
the scratchy noise will be dealt with when my heißlagerfett comes in :) thanks again mate i really appreciate your time and effort.
hey, how to clean up the fingerprint or grease stain on the glass elements?
do you have any special mixture?
Well - You can go for special optical cleaners (which are designed / designated for microscope optical cleaning). Or if you want something cheaper, then go for isopropyl-alcohol. You can get that one quite cheap in big bottles (even over some Amazon dealers). Though: I recommend to buy additional universal spraying bottles -> It´s WAY easier to handle it that way - Especially compared to a 1 liter bottle for example ^^. Just search for "empty spray bottle" on Amazon for example. Btw.: Don´t use the isopropyl-alcohol everywhere (also the special microscope cleaners). They tend to remove paint if you apply them on non sealed surfaces ...
alirght, i'll try that soon, and tell you if it works or not :D
and i dont mind about special optical cleaners, do you have in mind to reccomed me a product?
thanks :D
Well. Actuall I have here the "VetroClean V2" from osim optik (a german company which also produces lens and general optical grease - which I also want to test out within the next weeks for lens regreasing). But normaly I go with the isopropyl-alcohol. Though: What I forgot to mention -> I normaly don´t use it at 100% - I mix it with a 2nd sprayer (which contains destilled water). Normaly one spray out of each (or one from the iso and two from the water sprayer - Btw.: It should also work to mix it from scratch on in just one sprayer). Otherwise you´re getting "lines" on your glass (and with a mixture the isopropyl-alcohol isn´t that aggressive anymore). The water is removing the dust - The isopropyl is removing the fingerprints and general oily residues. If then there are still a few lines left on the lens surface, I use a micro fibre cloth and my own breath to fog the lens surface up a little bit (that way you get a perfect finish). Oh - And I also blow away all the particles before starting to clean the lens. Otherwise there´s a risk to get fine scratches onto the lenses. You can also try out LCD cleaners btw. - Some are working quite nice too (and they are also not aggressive, as the LCD surfaces are way more prone to chemicals). Then finish with the breath + micro fibre cloth and you´re getting about the same results. ^^
alright :)
how about screw you use to replace the original ?
do the screw head stick out ? and is it perfect fit? i lost at least 1 when begin to modify it hahaha
Also erstmal Danke Für dieses Detailreiche Video.
Ich Wollte bei mir den schwergängigen Fokus überarbeiten.
Nur bekomm ich den ring absolut nicht abgedreht wie Du bei 24:53.
Nun denn hab ich etwas Ballistol hinzugegeben und das Dreckige Fett etwas zu lösen und abzuwischen, was geholfen das es wieder leichter läuft. Wobei immer noch ein geringer wiederstand beim Drehen zu spüren ist der ab der Scala zwischen 2 . 3 abrupt nachlässt und dann wieder da ist. Ist das Absicht?
Ach und ich hab mit einem Schwarzen CD- Edding Wichtige stellen makiert die das einsetzen der Teile erheblich erleichtern und auch beim Nächsten mal sehr leicht wiederzufinden sind.
+Thomas Gulschwenk Hmm. Normal sollte sich der Ring abdrehen lassen - Sicher dass keine Madenschraube abgebrochen ist und den Ring noch blockiert? Es sind auch einige Schrauben zu lösen. Notfalls vielleicht mal erwärmen probieren - Dann sollten sich Reste auch etwas verflüssigen (bzw. die Schmierung ersetzt man ja sowieso). Bez. dem ungleichen Widerstand: Ja. Kenne ich. Ist eine ungleichmäßige Schmierung (bzw. zeigt, dass die Schmierung schon sehr viel ÖL verloren hat (und fast nur noch Bindemittel vorhanden ist). Man "zieht" regelrecht die Reste in der Helix mit (und teils sind gar keine Vorhanden = dann null Widerstand). Müsste man wirklich komplett ersetzen. Klar kann man die Helix auch so reinigen (ohne alles komplett zu zerlegen). Reste bleiben da aber fast immer vorhanden (leider).
Bez. CD Edding / Paket-Marker: Ja. Geht auch. Ich ritze aber in letzter Zeit lieber was rein (das sieht man auch sehr leicht bei schwarzer Lackierung - UND es stört auch niemanden (da es ja nur innen sichtbar ist). Die Klebe-Punkte waren eher nur ein Versuch einer entfernbaren Markierung (hätte ich wohl nicht im Video verwenden sollen) *g*.
+AustrianGeek Ja die schrauben hab ich alle 3 gelöst, es sitzt genauso Fest wie mit angezogenen schrauben.
Als Schmiermittel hatte ich ja erwähnt das ich Ballistol hinzugegeben habe, jedoch auch noch F100 Trockenschmierstoff. Damit kam dann das Fett nach oben. Ich benutz es erst einmal weiter so wie es jetzt ist und werd es in 1/4tel bis Halbes Jahr wieder überprüfen.
Und das mit der Markierung fand ich jetzt nicht tragisch das es im Video nicht geklappt hat.
Danke Trotzdem für deine Hilfe =) !
mfg Thommy
+Thomas Gulschwenk Hmm. Wie gesagt: Man könnte versuchen das ganze zu erhitzen. Das Problem ist: Ohne es komplett zu zerlegen kann man nicht alles entfernen (es bleibt immer was zurück). Allein schon durch den genau geschnittenen Gewindegang reicht schon eine Kleinigkeit um zu stören (habe auch schon Objektive zwei oder drei mal zerlegt weil immer noch ein "Überbleibsel" an Schmierung oder Schmutz vorhanden war, den ich wohl übersehen hatte).
Naja. Zumindest hat das Video geholfen.
Noch viel Spaß mit der Linse ^^. LG
+AustrianGeek Ich hab mir heut nochmal das Objektiv vorgenommen.
Erhitz hab ich es mit dem CFH Minni Brenner MB 010 und zudem auch noch WD 40.
Nun ja es sitzt immer noch genau so fest wie mit schrauben drinnen (Die ich alle 3 rausgenommen habe sicherheitshalber).
Jetzt hab ich es erstmal in den Tiefkühler gelegt und werd es in ca 3h nochmal versuchen.
Ivh hab es aber nicht heiß hineingelegt da sonst das Alu spröde werden könnte oder allgemein eine Materialermüdung verursacht würde.
Mal sehen ob ich es zerlegt bekomme =)
+Thomas Gulschwenk Hmm. Eigenartig. Ist vielleicht ne Schraube abgebrochen? Die Madenschrauben sind leider nicht gerade robust ^^. Sind es übrigens nicht mehr als 3? Habe es jetzt nicht mehr im Kopf (aber im Video sieht es nach 4 oder 5 Stk. aus). Mit dem Erhitzen hätte auch der Backofen gereicht - Aber ein Brenner geht natürlich auch (bzw. erhitzt schneller). Eigentlich wäre es nur um das lösen / verflüssigen von möglichen Rückständen gegangen (die im Feingewindegang des Ringes vorhanden sein könnten). Naja. Bei den Helios gibt es leider auch starke Unterschiede. Manche lassen sich extrem leicht öffnen, manche haben wieder Schrauben an anderen Stellen, manche lassen sich GAR NICHT öffnen - da gibt es viele Hürden ^^. Notfalls ne andere Linse besorgen (und jene herrichten) - Dann zählt die aktuelle eben als "Übungslinse" ...
About the oily blades: Yes. I cleaned them not THAT precise (also to show how to clean them within the review). BUT: You can do it a few times (with opening / closing the aperture a lot inbetween), to remove as much oil as possible (after about 3 times mine were nearly oil free).
would it damage my 5d mkii mirror?
*pfft*. Sorry. But I don´t used it with a 5D Mk.II or Mk.III - So I cannot say it for sure (by myself). There are also multiple comments / different hints - Maybe also because there are multiple editions of the Helios 44-2 available out there (some of them have a longer rear part / element than the others). That´s I think the problem - And that´s the point, why some are saying it works - And some that it doesn´t. =/
Yes... That doesnt make it easy! ... :(
You could try it yourself (if you´re ready to take the risk) - Maybe with a thin piece of foam or felt on the mirror or the lens (so you´re not damaging anything). And maybe check out different models (which are up for sale) -> Try to get a model with the least extending back (if you can see that on the pictures). Or check out local stores (which maybe have used Helios lenses). That would be the safest and the best way I think ^^.
Can you use 70% isopropyl alcohol for this lens?
Sure. Its just coming with more parts water in it / you can still get off grease and other stuff super easily. Isopropyl alcohol is mixing pretty well with water. So you can also make it even "thinner" by adding more destilled water. Will still vaporise without residues. Its just not working that well then anymore on super greasy surfaces. ^^
@@AustrianGeek Great, thanks! I mean can I use it at 70% undiluted?
@@infinitesimotel You can if you want to. If its still removing the residues properly, you also save on alcohol ^^. But I would go for destilled water to mix (to prevent any residues). And even 100% isopropyl alcohol is normaly not damaging the coatings of the glass. At least it wasn´t the case for the lenses I cleaned and repaired til now ^^. Though I only use iso if its necessary. For everyday external cleaning of the lenses I use most of the time monitor / LCD screen cleaner (as its also not aggressive to plastic parts of more modern lenses ^^). Isopropyl alcohol is also quite aggressive against various plastic mixtures (and printed letters). So be aware that you are not getting it on any plastic parts / on non glass parts of your lenses.
Brilliant, I just wanted to know if it was OK to put isoprop directly on a lens because I don't know what sort of chemical or glass they might have that could be ruined, but thanks for answering that for me. Vielen Dank!!
Yes got to be careful with plastics because they dont all go well with alcohol/solvent bases.
*lol*. You are the first one who is asking this. Yes. It is. It has a VERY nice shape / structure (so I used it for the avatar picture ^^). Btw.: It taste a little bit more nutty. But its also milder (compared to the common one).
we aperture :) let me see you do that with bigger zooms
Oh. Ok. That you mean. No. It´s not possible to "enforce" this characteristic. The optical formula and so also the bokeh of a lens is basically always the same.
The only option to "modify" your bokeh would be to change the aperture blades (to a different shape). But that way you only get different shaped "bokeh blobs" and not a more swirly bokeh. For your information -> "DogSchidtOptiks" are offering modified Helios 44-2 lenses for example - They are quite pricey, but you can check them out ^^.
Sorry. But I don´t have the vivitar. Btw.: The problem with such lenses is also a little bit: Zoom lenses are quite complex to open up. AND because there are THAT much different mount and aperture control options (Nikon, Olympus, Canon and so on) it´s not the same (to open it up) with every lens type. MAYBE I find one very cheap (my finances are very limited actually). Then it´s MAYBE possible, to make a video about it.
"Permanent swirl bokeh" - Do you mean constant full open aperture? (So - Do you want to remove the aperture blades completely?). Hmm. I don´t think that´s a good idea. A lens without adjustable aperture is like a car without a gas pedal ^^.
And btw.: The 44M series are a little bit more complex to open up. So I don´t recommend it. And I cannot help you with it (directly), because I don´t have a 44M-4 here actually. Sorry.
Can't seem to be able to twist the top off my version of the 44-2, so this video and all the other ones like it don't help at all.
Sorry to hear that. Sometimes it´s just not possible. I also had such a 44-2 once.
It sounds weird - But often it´s the best solution to buy another one (and sell the actual one).
I know it's late, but I had the same problem and after days of trying and failing, I finally opened my helios up. I heated the lens barrel for 1-2mins with a regular hair dryer, then tried to twist by holding the barrel and aperture rings firmly using rubber gardening gloves and non slip rubber mat.
@@HUNrobar Even tho it's 5 year later, I will try the heating up method.
@@ohjajohh good luck! :D