Thanks for this video. I purchased the Helios 44-2 and even though it said it was in good condition, it was loaded with sand. This helped me open it up and start to clean it out. Thanks!
A M A Z I N G ! I've just bought a MC Helios 44K-4 for pentax mount and since it appears to have some minor dust, I was considering how to clean it. There is another video tutorial out there doing it in the wrong way. Very nice and clear video. Thank you!!
Thanks for this video from 11 years ago. I just recently got into photography and got my hands on one of these Helios 44-2 for a cheap price. The unit I got is not at best condition but works fine, only prob was that there are a lot of finger prints at the back of the front glass. Not sure if it was intentional but thanks to this video I got rid of the finger marks easily.
Показана чистка в общем то рабочего объектива. У меня был случай поинтересней. Нашел я в сарае под кучей куриного помета Гелиос-44-2, с заклиненными кольцами диафрагмы и резкости. Куриный помет очень едкая вещь и разъедает все. Казалось бы окончательно мертвый объектив удалось восстановить. Было все очищено, заменена смазка. и все работает. Потребовалась полная разборка.
Смазал литолом, но смазка производилась исключительно для того, чтобы разработать закисшие детали. после того как все расшевелилось и заработало, стер смазку, но не обезжиривал. Пока работает.
I own a Helios 44 2/58 which diaphragm scale works on reverse way, i.e. when the red dot is on value 16 (turned left when you see the lens from the back of the camera, i.e. when you shot), the diaphragm is wide open, and when it's on value 2, it's closed. Any suggestion to reverse it to the normal condition? Or isn't whorth the pain to tamper it?
This is the correct working. You are using it wrong. Your supposed to use the front ring(the one with two grip areas and clicks when turned) to preset the aparature you want then the ring below steps down(closes) the blades to the set size. This method not only shows you the correct marking but would allow on an optical viewfinder (as lens was designed for) to compose wide open then close the aparature. Somthing modern cameras do automatically closing the aparature only when taking the shot.
Thanks for the reply. There's no tutorial online, and also no screws in the focusing ring of my version (old, non-MC). The only screws seem to be those located on the mount. Is the lens assembly detachable by unscrewing, just like the Helios 44-2?
Hi, Thanks for a very helpful video. I have an old M39 mount Helios 44 which does not open to separate the helicoid from optical block. Is there any other way to grease/oil it? Thanks.
Well. Without opening it up its not possible - No. Try to check if your lens is opening up differently (there are various different M42 and M39 versions on the market - All named the same sadly). You can also try to heat it up on a heating radiator for example and then try to open it up again (as heat is normaly loosening up many thread locker liquids - Maybe it got locked with such a liquid to prevent unwanted opening of the lens). Mine opened up accidentally (and then I started playing around with it / cleaning it etc.) ^^. Just keep in mind: If you heat it up quite high, use protection (as otherwise you´ll burn yourself ^^). There is no plastic inside those lenses - So heating it up (not too high) should be "ok". Do this though on your own risk. LG
You can theoretically add more tension by using a "thicker" grease for it. Normaly there are multiple greases in use on lenses anyways. One for the helicoid / optical mechanics and then others for the aperture rings / focus rings etc. Thankfully its not that important what you use on the Helios 44-2 - As there is no plastic or rubber in use (on plastic and rubber parts its more critical what grease you use - As wrong ones can dissolve those materials over time - White lithium / lithium grease is for example normaly critical - If I have it right in my backhead). LG
Well - I was also confused the first time I held the Helios 44-2 in my hands ^^. The direction is the right one (of the stepless aperture ring). BECAUSE: The aperture markings are for the STEPPED ring (which sits ABOVE the fine controlling one - just try to turn it). It´s a quite "unique" solution - yes - but also very handy! Because: You can set an aperture "limit" with the stepped ring (the 1st one) AND it´s still possible to fine adjust it with the 2nd ring. ^^ Hope that helps =)
When opening up the front, there's a doublet behind the front lens, which is two lenses glued together. There's apparently a bubble or something inside the doublet that I can't get to. Also, I seemed to have left micro scratches on the surface of the lens, even though I used lint free tissue / swabs and microfiber. The 44-2 I bought is old and the black paint / anodized surface of the housing was chipping off, so it will get dirty just moving it around over time.
Yes. The lenses are cemented together. Pls don´t try to disassemble them (as you won´t be able to align them again that easily and you´re normaly missing on the right glue to do that). The lenses are also not coated at all (so they are also quite prone to dust / sand particles / scratches. But very fine scratches are not lowering the image quality. Just be careful cleaning the lenses in the future (even a small sand particle on a microfibre-cloth can be too much - Scratch resistant hard coating came WAY WAY later onto the market). Have fun shooting ^^. LG
Yea I read that the range finder J9 is much harder to take apart. My problem is mainly that I need to re lube the lens because the grease from 1957 is very old :) I think I can figure it out, maybe I will record a video and use it to figure out how to put it back together!
Well. The 44M models are not that easy to open up. But just try it out and be patient. Should be also possible (as older manual primes are all in all not THAT complex). I also just tried out to open up the 44-2 (before making this video). Btw.: Don´t confuse the 44M-2 with the 44-2 model. The "M" models are the way newer ones (with a completely different design). Sorry that I cannot help more (as I don´t have a 44M model here).
Be aware that there are multiple models of the Helios 44 lenses (especially if you have a 44M version, its completely different built). But also of the original / older 44-2 model different manufacturer series are available. Btw.: In general it could have also dried out / its maybe stuck (or they used thread-locker to close it up). So if you don´t want to risk to damage it, please keep it closed (as long as its usable more or less properly) ^^.
@@AustrianGeek it was a Helios 44-2 by KMZ... The optical Block didn't came out but I managed it to take out all lenses and to work me through to the helicoid... It was full of glas pieces🤷♂️ I am quiet experienced in clean and maintaining optics (i also do it for customers) but this one was extremely stuck. Couldn't even move the focus. But now it works fine. Thank you anyway😊
@@retusrieben6487 Ah. Good to hear that its fixed now ^^. Have fun shooting with it. As soon as its open its not very complex to service. But to get it open its sometimes a little bit of a hastle. Which lubrication did you use? THe 44-2 is quite "rough" according the helicooid. A thicker lubrication is normaly necessary there (also have HG-10 here in use in some lenses - And its a tad too thin for many older lenses. Need to test out a few of the other greases I have here lying around which are for scopes / microscope for example - I am just curious what you used / normaly use ^^.). LG
@@retusrieben6487 Ah. The OSIM ones. I also have three of them here (but only used the MKL1 til now for a newer plastic lens - as its stated to be especially for plastic / metal combinations). Also have the FGF5 and the FTS5 here. Good to know that the FGF works well in the 44-2 (its quite sticky and thick yes - Perfect for the more raw helicoid(s) of the 44-2). Just didn´t use it til know as its also the "smelliest" out of the bunch ^^. But still WAY better than 0815 / standard lithium based grease i used in the video (smell wise). Sadly I didn´t have any of the better grease variants at the time I made this video ... LG
Thanks a lot for your video! I managed to open the back of a Jupiter-8 50mm lens with your tips! But one question remains, how do you take of the front element of the jupiter lens? Have you ever opened one of these? There's some dust or whatever it is in mine in between the front and second element I believe. I actually have to slightly different jupiter-8s... Vielen Dank und schöne Grüße aus Linz btw! :-)
Great! I'm repairing a really beaten up Helios 44 2/58. What grease did you use? Btw: Che Guevara used besides his Nikon S2 a Zenit 3M with a Helios 44 2/58 :)
Hi! Can you tell, what type of lubricant did you use? Why this choice? How is your Helios feels up today in reason of use of this lubricant? Any stucks today?
+Владимир Фёдоров Hello there. Well - I used multiple different lubricants til now. The lithium based grease(s) which you can also see in the video (which you can also find as "universal grease" in local stores) - Silicone based ones (which are a little bit "nicer" to your nose and not THAT thick in general - At least the ones I tested) and lately / since over a year now also special optical greases (which are also not that expensive). Actually I am testing "OSIM Optik" ones for example (they are dirt cheap and I got them directly from Germany - Also nice: They are even usable for plastic / metal combinations -> The MKL1 grease for example). I also tested out the quite expensive (japanese) HG-10 grease (the "lightest" ones). Though: It´s seperating way too easy (the sun was already enough) - And it´s only usable for VERY precise built lenses. According the 44-2 you need something not too thin - As you need to compensate a little bit the more "raw" built of these lenses (russian lenses in general need a little bit thicker grease) . You can use basically everything (at least I used everything til now with russian lenses without any problems). Just keep in mind that many greases are smelling quite funny for a long time (with standard / non-optical greases). If you want to get something better (so a "real" optical grease) you could go for the OSIM Optik FGF5 or FTS5 greases. The first one is a little bit thicker (the FGF5). But should work nicely with a Helios 44-2. About long term usage: The 44-2 of the video is still in use (by a friend). No problems til now - BUT: It´s STILL smelling a little bit ^^ - So it´s not always in his bag *g*.
+AustrianGeek Youve mentioned "lithium based". In this connection: was it smth russian, type of ciatim 221 or what? Then why did you cheanged this grease to OSIM? I found soviet-russian lithium based CIATIM not good as it dried to dust )))
No. It was just standard universal lithium-EP based grease and the (quite "smelly" / blue) ball-bearing RC racing car grease (which I used within the video - Which is also using lithium). Btw.: The OSIM greases I never used directly with the 44-2 (those I only greased with the lithium and silicone based ones). The FGF5 I only mentioned as an alternative (as it should fit nicely - Dampening and stiffness wise). The OSIM greases (MKL1, FTS5 and FGF5) I have now since a few weeks / months (as it´s often necessary to use different greases within one lens) - One for the helix (a thinner one like the HG-10 if possible), one for the general parts (guide pins and aperture control ring for example) and oil or very thin grease for the fine-mechanical parts (only if needed). Normaly I use HG-10 for that instead of OIL - Only a VERY thin layer - So it´s not seperating that easily. That reminds me - I need to regrease my other lenses anyway. Should make a video about it (Yashica ML lenses - 24, 35 and 50mm). And need to check again if the HG-10 is also seperating in the helixes (or if it´s really only the case if applied to thick). ^^ Btw.: Long term usage of different greases is always something which you need to test out by yourself. Sometimes you need to replace the grease anyway (for example if it´s seperating - Like the HG-10 (if applied on wrong places or too thick) - OR: You also often get dust inside the helix - Especially when using the lenses quite often outdoors). So normaly I calculate with a usage of one or two years (then I regrease them if necessary). Hmm. Sorry for the long text. As always I am writing / talking too much ^^.
AustrianGeek )) I`ve red everything ) Tnx a lot for your info. ) You are very enthusiastic,) I hope you this doesnt bother daily rootin life ) At the moment I am scanning web page of grease produser here in Russia.))) It suggests grease at UNHUMAN volumes ))) Have a look at this ))) miscom.ru/
You´re welcome. About a source: Why don´t you ask OSIM Optik in Germany for a shipment quote? Their greases are dirt cheap (around 7 to 8€ for 40 gramms of one type - With which you can regrease MANY lenses ^^.)
Hello, will I be able to clean russian lenses with something like a Hama Pen? Also, my helios is brand new and has no serial number at all...is that normal?
Hmm. I don´t recommend to use such pens. They are maybe ok and usabe the first time (or if you need something for "on the go" to remove smears or sticks dust) - BUT: As soon as such pens are older, or you used them a few times, there is a high risk that they are loosing particles. And as soon as you get a hard particle on your pen (removed such a particle with your pen), then there´s even the risk that you´re scratching your lens completely the next time you´re using it (!) Btw.: Even for "on the go" I use a blower to clean my lenses (Giottos Q-Ball) - And I have a few wet cleaning papers in my bag against HEAVY smears (beside a micro fiber cloth ^^). So absolutely no need for such a pen. For cleaning the lens INSIDE, it is even better to use cotton Q-Tips / special "cotton tipped applicators", which are not loosing particles or fibres - Together with a little bit of cleaning alcohol and / or optics cleaner (for glasses for example). That way you´re removing everything (from dust to oil) - And you´re not harming anything inside the lens. But use a blower first (maybe you don´t even need to clean "mechanically") ^^. About your Helios: Hmm. Check the enclosure of your lens (if it´s not printed on the first, removable inner ring - As it was the case in my video) - There are MANY different versions of the 44-2 on the market (and I am talking only about the 44-2 and not about the 44M, 44M-2 and so on). Btw.: Also check for "grooves" - Sometimes serial numbers are only engraved (and not coloured / painted in a different colour than the enclousre). HTH (hope that helps) ^^
Hi there! Thank you so much for your detailed response! I have a blower and micro fiber cloth...will that be better then? - As for the Helios number...I managed to find it on the side barrel of the lens! :) - Factory was Valdai (?) made 1985...
Good to hear that it helps ^^. Yes. It´s possible, that it´s a Valdai lens (as it was of the manufacturers of the Helios 44-2 lenses). According the blower: That´s good - You can use that for cleaning the lens inside (as mentioned already) - You can also use the microfiber cloth - Sure. But it´s only useful, if the lenses are REALLY dirty (not only dusty - Which you can blow off easily - Or a small particle you can remove for example with a cottong tip and a little bit of cleaner or cleaning alcohol). To use the microfiber cloth you would need to remove each of the necessary lens elements to clean them - So a not THAT handy and useful method (most of the time) ^^. But as the lens elements of the 44-2 are quite easy to remove - It´s possible yes. Btw.: The microfiber cloth(s) I mentioned primarily as a better option compared to the lens pen (for general cleaning of the optics - OUTSIDE - If you´re on the go for example) - As the lens pens are primarily designed for that purposes (but a microfiber cloth + a blower is the better "to go" kit) ^^. Btw.: Nearly forgot to say - Have fun cleaning your Helios 44-2 - It´s a nice (and easy to open / clean) lens (!) It´s a nice afternoon project for cold days ^^.
+AustrianGeek thanks for this info I was about to buy a lenspen, I used to clean my lenses with a microfiber cloth (I just was curious about lens pens), thanks again for the info.
***** Well - Would love to make one for the 44M-6 or the 44M-7 (as they are really nice too - And the best out of the bunch). Though: As always money is short (and supply too - Need to search for a cheap one - Which take its time ^^).Btw.: Actually I am focusing more on a refurbishment video for Yashica ML glass (the "cheapo" Zeiss Distagon C/Y counterparts) - As it´s also REALLY nice glass (for a quite cheap price) (!) Even more interesting than the old russian lenses (as the "good" models are quite expensive already - 50 to 70€ for a good 44M-7 isn´t surprising - On the other hand a good Yashica ML 50mm F1.7 - the counterpart of the C/Y Zeiss Distagon 50mm F1.7 costs only about 20 to 30€ - 50€ max. for a pristine edition). And they are also REALLY easy to refurbish (like the original Helios 44-2 you can see here) ^^.So: Stay tuned ^^.
About 2 weeks ago, I dismantled my Yashica ML 50mm f/1.4 to clean out the optics. It was interesting, and it is actually quite good in terms of image quality for a 30-year old lens. Do you work as a lens repairer?
***** Oh. Then you know already of the qualitis of the Yashica ML glass. I have here the 24mm F2.8, 35mm F2.8 and the 50mm F1.7 - For the refurb video series and YES, also to use it by myself ^^. The 35mm F2.8 is also REALLY nice (extremely sharp - Even wide open). The 24mm needs to be stopped down to F4 to get really nice (just in case you´re interested in this one too) ^^.Btw.: No - I am not a lens repairer. Just common interest in vintage glass. =)
DSB are the "cheaper ones" from Yashica. Most of them are built cheaper (they used plastics instead of metal for example) AND they are also not multicoated (just single coated - Or they got less coating layers). The Yashica ML lenses on the other hand are multicoated and a few "seem to be" even 1:1 copies of the Zeiss CONTAX AE lenses (50mm F1.7 for example - Or the 35mm F2.8). Only difference - The Yashicas are rendering "warmer" due to the different coating on their lens elements ^^. And the later Zeiss CONTAX MM lenses got an optical redesign (and even newer / better coatings). But the optical difference is REALLY small. Still using the Yashica ML lenses btw. ... ^^
If I can figure it out I will make a tutorial video for fun, hopefully it will help others. I am still waiting for my lens to come from Russia, so I will send you a message if I figure things out! Thanks again :)
Yes. That´s a problem. Easiest way: Sell them (and get other ones you can then open up / refurbish). Don´t know exactly why some are not opening up - Maybe they used screw locker on some series (to fixate the inner lens element / the "inner block").
Hmm. The bad is: I never opened up a Jupiter-8. But maybe I can help you. On the front there are no notches - right? Hmm. It looks like, there is a front "shell" with the front lens (like the back element with the glasses of the Helios 44-2). MAYBE you just need to unscrew this whole front element to get to the next level with the notches (you see through the front glass). But that´s only a guess. You should do it like I did: Unscrew / detach EVERYTHING - Only then you´ll know for sure ...
It´s not THAT of a problem (if you only want to clean it up): Just unlock the front or back rings / elements to remove the lenses. That way you should also get direct access to the aperture blades and you can clean up the elements (if necessary). If you have mechanical problems, it´s not that easy. Sure - you can try out to open it up. But if you don´t want to take the risk of a damage, just let it be in the actual state. (The problem is too: You have a more "special" edition of the Jupiter-9.)
Sorry. But I didn´t open up my like new Industar til now (I only removed the lenses to clean them). But the best way is, to search for shematics OR to unscrew EVERYTHING and try to open it up by yourself (like I did with the Helios). Try to remove the focus ring first. And then go deeper. Normaly this old russian lenses are quite easy to open up.
The only way (which I can imagine without changing any of the glasses / optics) is to remove the aperture blades completely (so there is more space where the aperture was). BUT: I would not recommend it. Because the Helios 44-2 is already quite soft at F2.0 and especially the fine adjustable working aperture ring of the Helios is one of it´s very nice and unique features. (AND: I am sure you will not be happy with a fixed F1.5 lens, which is also quite soft.)
Good way to do it. Especially if it´s a more complex lens =). Let me know if you achieved to repair it. And maybe make a video tutorial too - it´s helping alot, to have a video.
gg. Ne. Das gibt es nur auf Englisch. Es gibt übrigens auch nen 2. Teil des Videos (nur mit dem 44-2): th-cam.com/video/EpM3284HkAQ/w-d-xo.html Schmierung vielleicht mal das OSIM MKL1 ansehen. Das ist günstig und sowohl für Kunststoff als auch Metall geeignet (kann man also auch für modernere Objektive mit Kunststoff-Anteil verwenden. Die generellen Schmierstoffe die man so kriegt sind leider entweder zu dick / schwergängig, sind aggressiv gegen Kunststoffe z.B. (zersetzen diese Bauteile dann) oder sie stinken regelrecht (ich glaube im 2. Video hab ich das Heißlagerfett mal verwendet - Das ging zwar auch - Aber vom Geruch her eben nichts, was man dann in der Kameratasche mit transportieren möchte ^^). Es gibt auch noch das HG10 Schmiermittel (aus Japan) das großteils als "leichtes" Schmiermittel für Linsen verwendet wird (besonders wenn es leichtgängig sein muss bez. Autofokus-Linsen z.B.). ABER: Das verliert leider ein wenig Öl über die Zeit / bei höheren Temperaturen. Bin ich also auch nicht mehr so recht ein Fan davon (weil man erst wieder das ganze Schmiermittel entfernen muss nach einiger Zeit - Ölverlust = ungut wieder in der Fototasche UND wenn der Schmierstoff das Öl verliert heißt das, dass es nicht mehr schmiert / flüssig läuft ^^). LG
+gman0973 Yes. This one is a Valdai. But as far as I remember the other one I mentioned in the video was a KMZ. (The one which was stuck / which I weren´t able to open up.) But overall it´s not important - All 44-2 models are quite nice ^^.
It´s not THAT important which one you use. I used ball bearing / RC racing grease. But it´s quite "smelly". Standard grease is also more than ok. But check the smell before you buy it (if it´s possible). ^^
Btw.: Sorry that I can´t help you more. I would do more videos like this. But it´s hard to find "needy" lenses in acceptable shape (I think it´s a shame to open up fine ones). And also money is always a problem (because I am a student). To be precise / honest: I always have to sell stuff to test out new one. AND to spend a lot of money into broken lenses to fix them (or to TRY to), is a little bit unpleasant ...
I sent you two links to 44m opening. But I think there´s something broken in your lens. Btw.: Be aware, that the 44m lenses are much more complex to open than the Helios 44-2 ...
RizHail Sure. Just use my TH-cam namge and add "@gmail.com" ^^ (I just don´t post it completely here - As it´s always a bad idea according automated mail-address searchers.)
Well. I don´t know the factory new versions of the 44-2 (if there are brand new manufactured ones - Are there?). But I think it´s mainly the price difference which is important. If you´re lucky, you can get the used 44-2 for a few bucks used (and it´s fun and easy to fix them ^^). On the other hand with the brand new lenses you need to be patient, as you could also get fake ones / lower quality ones now. It seems like nowadays for example many 44M-7 are fake - Brand new fake or they replace / reprint the front ring to make an cheaper 44M-4, -5 or -6 to a 44M-7. So overall I would go for the used ones - AND it´s important to check for the differences (so you know, if it´s really a 44M-7 you´re buying). I would go for used ones (if you can find them in good condition) ... ^^
Thanks for this video. I purchased the Helios 44-2 and even though it said it was in good condition, it was loaded with sand. This helped me open it up and start to clean it out. Thanks!
A M A Z I N G ! I've just bought a MC Helios 44K-4 for pentax mount and since it appears to have some minor dust, I was considering how to clean it.
There is another video tutorial out there doing it in the wrong way.
Very nice and clear video. Thank you!!
Thanks for this video from 11 years ago. I just recently got into photography and got my hands on one of these Helios 44-2 for a cheap price. The unit I got is not at best condition but works fine, only prob was that there are a lot of finger prints at the back of the front glass. Not sure if it was intentional but thanks to this video I got rid of the finger marks easily.
Good to hear that it helped. Have fun shooting ^^. LG
Many thanks!
That the lens group can be unscrewed, I would not have thought of it. Some contact spray and wait a few hours, then it worked.
Наконец получилось добраться до лепестков диафрагмы, а то масло бесило сильно, большое спасибо автору видео.
Показана чистка в общем то рабочего объектива. У меня был случай поинтересней. Нашел я в сарае под кучей куриного помета Гелиос-44-2, с заклиненными кольцами диафрагмы и резкости. Куриный помет очень едкая вещь и разъедает все. Казалось бы окончательно мертвый объектив удалось восстановить. Было все очищено, заменена смазка. и все работает. Потребовалась полная разборка.
+Планета Земля чем смазали? Есть печальный опыт смазкой Циатимом. Как сейчас ведет себя смазка?
Смазал литолом, но смазка производилась исключительно для того, чтобы разработать закисшие детали. после того как все расшевелилось и заработало, стер смазку, но не обезжиривал. Пока работает.
Чуваки, а вы русские? или фобии???
Hello! I have a Helios 44 that has a very stiff focus ring. But the problem is that I cant remove the optical block. Do you know what I can do? Thanks
I own a Helios 44 2/58 which diaphragm scale works on reverse way, i.e. when the red dot is on value 16 (turned left when you see the lens from the back of the camera, i.e. when you shot), the diaphragm is wide open, and when it's on value 2, it's closed.
Any suggestion to reverse it to the normal condition? Or isn't whorth the pain to tamper it?
This is the correct working. You are using it wrong. Your supposed to use the front ring(the one with two grip areas and clicks when turned) to preset the aparature you want then the ring below steps down(closes) the blades to the set size. This method not only shows you the correct marking but would allow on an optical viewfinder (as lens was designed for) to compose wide open then close the aparature. Somthing modern cameras do automatically closing the aparature only when taking the shot.
Hello. My helios 44 has a problem. The aperture ring stuck on f2, cant be turned. Any ideas why? Haven’t opened it yet, as it is on the way to me.
Hi there. Check out that section here: th-cam.com/video/d5pjD_akRR8/w-d-xo.html - Its using a preset aperture system. Maybe its mis-set ^^
Thanks for the reply. There's no tutorial online, and also no screws in the focusing ring of my version (old, non-MC). The only screws seem to be those located on the mount. Is the lens assembly detachable by unscrewing, just like the Helios 44-2?
Hi, Thanks for a very helpful video. I have an old M39 mount Helios 44 which does not open to separate the helicoid from optical block. Is there any other way to grease/oil it? Thanks.
Well. Without opening it up its not possible - No. Try to check if your lens is opening up differently (there are various different M42 and M39 versions on the market - All named the same sadly). You can also try to heat it up on a heating radiator for example and then try to open it up again (as heat is normaly loosening up many thread locker liquids - Maybe it got locked with such a liquid to prevent unwanted opening of the lens). Mine opened up accidentally (and then I started playing around with it / cleaning it etc.) ^^. Just keep in mind: If you heat it up quite high, use protection (as otherwise you´ll burn yourself ^^). There is no plastic inside those lenses - So heating it up (not too high) should be "ok". Do this though on your own risk. LG
@@AustrianGeek Thanks. Will keep trying. Heating is a good idea.
Great tutorial! Is there a way to add more tension to the aperture ring? Mine is really loose and the slightest touch changes the F stop. Thank you!
You can theoretically add more tension by using a "thicker" grease for it. Normaly there are multiple greases in use on lenses anyways. One for the helicoid / optical mechanics and then others for the aperture rings / focus rings etc. Thankfully its not that important what you use on the Helios 44-2 - As there is no plastic or rubber in use (on plastic and rubber parts its more critical what grease you use - As wrong ones can dissolve those materials over time - White lithium / lithium grease is for example normaly critical - If I have it right in my backhead). LG
Well - I was also confused the first time I held the Helios 44-2 in my hands ^^. The direction is the right one (of the stepless aperture ring). BECAUSE: The aperture markings are for the STEPPED ring (which sits ABOVE the fine controlling one - just try to turn it).
It´s a quite "unique" solution - yes - but also very handy! Because: You can set an aperture "limit" with the stepped ring (the 1st one) AND it´s still possible to fine adjust it with the 2nd ring. ^^
Hope that helps =)
When opening up the front, there's a doublet behind the front lens, which is two lenses glued together. There's apparently a bubble or something inside the doublet that I can't get to. Also, I seemed to have left micro scratches on the surface of the lens, even though I used lint free tissue / swabs and microfiber. The 44-2 I bought is old and the black paint / anodized surface of the housing was chipping off, so it will get dirty just moving it around over time.
Yes. The lenses are cemented together. Pls don´t try to disassemble them (as you won´t be able to align them again that easily and you´re normaly missing on the right glue to do that). The lenses are also not coated at all (so they are also quite prone to dust / sand particles / scratches. But very fine scratches are not lowering the image quality. Just be careful cleaning the lenses in the future (even a small sand particle on a microfibre-cloth can be too much - Scratch resistant hard coating came WAY WAY later onto the market). Have fun shooting ^^. LG
Yea I read that the range finder J9 is much harder to take apart. My problem is mainly that I need to re lube the lens because the grease from 1957 is very old :) I think I can figure it out, maybe I will record a video and use it to figure out how to put it back together!
Hi, I also have an Industar 61 L/Z, and it is very wobbly and needs relubing. Can you give me advice on how to access the helicoid?
Just got a 44M-4 and the focus ring is very tight, it's a '87 prism logo. I hope it's as easy as the 44M-2 to get to grease it up again.
Well. The 44M models are not that easy to open up. But just try it out and be patient. Should be also possible (as older manual primes are all in all not THAT complex). I also just tried out to open up the 44-2 (before making this video). Btw.: Don´t confuse the 44M-2 with the 44-2 model. The "M" models are the way newer ones (with a completely different design). Sorry that I cannot help more (as I don´t have a 44M model here).
Any tips for the screws on the focus ring , I'm blanked off
Hey there - Maybe check out the 2nd part / video ^^ - th-cam.com/video/EpM3284HkAQ/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video, it will be of great help for cleaning and greasing the focusing ring on my Helios 44 :)
Good video... I do own one like this but I just can't open that thing up. In fact the focus ring doesn't turn at all... Has Someone an idea?
Be aware that there are multiple models of the Helios 44 lenses (especially if you have a 44M version, its completely different built). But also of the original / older 44-2 model different manufacturer series are available.
Btw.: In general it could have also dried out / its maybe stuck (or they used thread-locker to close it up). So if you don´t want to risk to damage it, please keep it closed (as long as its usable more or less properly) ^^.
@@AustrianGeek it was a Helios 44-2 by KMZ... The optical Block didn't came out but I managed it to take out all lenses and to work me through to the helicoid... It was full of glas pieces🤷♂️ I am quiet experienced in clean and maintaining optics (i also do it for customers) but this one was extremely stuck. Couldn't even move the focus. But now it works fine. Thank you anyway😊
@@retusrieben6487 Ah. Good to hear that its fixed now ^^. Have fun shooting with it. As soon as its open its not very complex to service. But to get it open its sometimes a little bit of a hastle. Which lubrication did you use? THe 44-2 is quite "rough" according the helicooid. A thicker lubrication is normaly necessary there (also have HG-10 here in use in some lenses - And its a tad too thin for many older lenses. Need to test out a few of the other greases I have here lying around which are for scopes / microscope for example - I am just curious what you used / normaly use ^^.). LG
@@AustrianGeek yes, the inside is very simple and easy... I used Feinmechanikfett HL-FGF5 from OSIM. It's quiet sticky, but I like it a lot. 😊
@@retusrieben6487 Ah. The OSIM ones. I also have three of them here (but only used the MKL1 til now for a newer plastic lens - as its stated to be especially for plastic / metal combinations). Also have the FGF5 and the FTS5 here. Good to know that the FGF works well in the 44-2 (its quite sticky and thick yes - Perfect for the more raw helicoid(s) of the 44-2). Just didn´t use it til know as its also the "smelliest" out of the bunch ^^. But still WAY better than 0815 / standard lithium based grease i used in the video (smell wise). Sadly I didn´t have any of the better grease variants at the time I made this video ... LG
Thanks a lot for your video! I managed to open the back of a Jupiter-8 50mm lens with your tips! But one question remains, how do you take of the front element of the jupiter lens? Have you ever opened one of these? There's some dust or whatever it is in mine in between the front and second element I believe. I actually have to slightly different jupiter-8s...
Vielen Dank und schöne Grüße aus Linz btw! :-)
I know someone makes the helios 44-2 to a fixed f1.5. Any idea how this is achieved? thank you
Great! I'm repairing a really beaten up Helios 44 2/58. What grease did you use?
Btw: Che Guevara used besides his Nikon S2 a Zenit 3M with a Helios 44 2/58 :)
Great tutorial! Too bad you didn't show the focus ring part, ¡that's the one I needed! My Helios is stuck at 1.5 meters.
Did you manage to sort your problem? I have one that won't focus to infinity!
Hi! Can you tell, what type of lubricant did you use? Why this choice? How is your Helios feels up today in reason of use of this lubricant? Any stucks today?
+Владимир Фёдоров Hello there.
Well - I used multiple different lubricants til now. The lithium based grease(s) which you can also see in the video (which you can also find as "universal grease" in local stores) - Silicone based ones (which are a little bit "nicer" to your nose and not THAT thick in general - At least the ones I tested) and lately / since over a year now also special optical greases (which are also not that expensive). Actually I am testing "OSIM Optik" ones for example (they are dirt cheap and I got them directly from Germany - Also nice: They are even usable for plastic / metal combinations -> The MKL1 grease for example). I also tested out the quite expensive (japanese) HG-10 grease (the "lightest" ones). Though: It´s seperating way too easy (the sun was already enough) - And it´s only usable for VERY precise built lenses.
According the 44-2 you need something not too thin - As you need to compensate a little bit the more "raw" built of these lenses (russian lenses in general need a little bit thicker grease) . You can use basically everything (at least I used everything til now with russian lenses without any problems). Just keep in mind that many greases are smelling quite funny for a long time (with standard / non-optical greases). If you want to get something better (so a "real" optical grease) you could go for the OSIM Optik FGF5 or FTS5 greases. The first one is a little bit thicker (the FGF5). But should work nicely with a Helios 44-2.
About long term usage: The 44-2 of the video is still in use (by a friend).
No problems til now - BUT: It´s STILL smelling a little bit ^^ - So it´s not always in his bag *g*.
+AustrianGeek Youve mentioned "lithium based". In this connection: was it smth russian, type of ciatim 221 or what? Then why did you cheanged this grease to OSIM? I found soviet-russian lithium based CIATIM not good as it dried to dust )))
No. It was just standard universal lithium-EP based grease and the (quite "smelly" / blue) ball-bearing RC racing car grease (which I used within the video - Which is also using lithium).
Btw.: The OSIM greases I never used directly with the 44-2 (those I only greased with the lithium and silicone based ones). The FGF5 I only mentioned as an alternative (as it should fit nicely - Dampening and stiffness wise).
The OSIM greases (MKL1, FTS5 and FGF5) I have now since a few weeks / months (as it´s often necessary to use different greases within one lens) - One for the helix (a thinner one like the HG-10 if possible), one for the general parts (guide pins and aperture control ring for example) and oil or very thin grease for the fine-mechanical parts (only if needed). Normaly I use HG-10 for that instead of OIL - Only a VERY thin layer - So it´s not seperating that easily.
That reminds me - I need to regrease my other lenses anyway. Should make a video about it (Yashica ML lenses - 24, 35 and 50mm). And need to check again if the HG-10 is also seperating in the helixes (or if it´s really only the case if applied to thick). ^^
Btw.: Long term usage of different greases is always something which you need to test out by yourself. Sometimes you need to replace the grease anyway (for example if it´s seperating - Like the HG-10 (if applied on wrong places or too thick) - OR: You also often get dust inside the helix - Especially when using the lenses quite often outdoors). So normaly I calculate with a usage of one or two years (then I regrease them if necessary).
Hmm. Sorry for the long text.
As always I am writing / talking too much ^^.
AustrianGeek )) I`ve red everything ) Tnx a lot for your info. ) You are very enthusiastic,) I hope you this doesnt bother daily rootin life ) At the moment I am scanning web page of grease produser here in Russia.))) It suggests grease at UNHUMAN volumes ))) Have a look at this ))) miscom.ru/
You´re welcome.
About a source: Why don´t you ask OSIM Optik in Germany for a shipment quote? Their greases are dirt cheap (around 7 to 8€ for 40 gramms of one type - With which you can regrease MANY lenses ^^.)
Show me how to fix my focus on helios 44m-4. The apature ring moves free and focus isnt chaging. Dont know what heppened.. I need help
Very informative and helpful video, thanks!
Thanks from Poland :)
thanks for the tips, I wonder if you tried to open an Jupiter-9, it looks much more complex than the helios.
I have the inner part that concludes the lenses I found it in scrap metal and I found the second lense that is beneath it have 3 hits
Hello, will I be able to clean russian lenses with something like a Hama Pen?
Also, my helios is brand new and has no serial number at all...is that normal?
Hmm. I don´t recommend to use such pens. They are maybe ok and usabe the first time (or if you need something for "on the go" to remove smears or sticks dust) - BUT: As soon as such pens are older, or you used them a few times, there is a high risk that they are loosing particles. And as soon as you get a hard particle on your pen (removed such a particle with your pen), then there´s even the risk that you´re scratching your lens completely the next time you´re using it (!) Btw.: Even for "on the go" I use a blower to clean my lenses (Giottos Q-Ball) - And I have a few wet cleaning papers in my bag against HEAVY smears (beside a micro fiber cloth ^^). So absolutely no need for such a pen.
For cleaning the lens INSIDE, it is even better to use cotton Q-Tips / special "cotton tipped applicators", which are not loosing particles or fibres - Together with a little bit of cleaning alcohol and / or optics cleaner (for glasses for example). That way you´re removing everything (from dust to oil) - And you´re not harming anything inside the lens. But use a blower first (maybe you don´t even need to clean "mechanically") ^^.
About your Helios: Hmm. Check the enclosure of your lens (if it´s not printed on the first, removable inner ring - As it was the case in my video) - There are MANY different versions of the 44-2 on the market (and I am talking only about the 44-2 and not about the 44M, 44M-2 and so on). Btw.: Also check for "grooves" - Sometimes serial numbers are only engraved (and not coloured / painted in a different colour than the enclousre).
HTH (hope that helps) ^^
Hi there! Thank you so much for your detailed response! I have a blower and micro fiber cloth...will that be better then? - As for the Helios number...I managed to find it on the side barrel of the lens! :) - Factory was Valdai (?) made 1985...
Good to hear that it helps ^^. Yes. It´s possible, that it´s a Valdai lens (as it was of the manufacturers of the Helios 44-2 lenses).
According the blower: That´s good - You can use that for cleaning the lens inside (as mentioned already) - You can also use the microfiber cloth - Sure. But it´s only useful, if the lenses are REALLY dirty (not only dusty - Which you can blow off easily - Or a small particle you can remove for example with a cottong tip and a little bit of cleaner or cleaning alcohol). To use the microfiber cloth you would need to remove each of the necessary lens elements to clean them - So a not THAT handy and useful method (most of the time) ^^. But as the lens elements of the 44-2 are quite easy to remove - It´s possible yes.
Btw.: The microfiber cloth(s) I mentioned primarily as a better option compared to the lens pen (for general cleaning of the optics - OUTSIDE - If you´re on the go for example) - As the lens pens are primarily designed for that purposes (but a microfiber cloth + a blower is the better "to go" kit) ^^.
Btw.: Nearly forgot to say - Have fun cleaning your Helios 44-2 - It´s a nice (and easy to open / clean) lens (!) It´s a nice afternoon project for cold days ^^.
+AustrianGeek thanks for this info I was about to buy a lenspen, I used to clean my lenses with a microfiber cloth (I just was curious about lens pens), thanks again for the info.
+Stephanie Lapena could you please share photos of your lens, maybe I could help you identifying your lens.
@AustrianGeek i have an helios 44-6 and it's nice and sharp
Thank you very much for this helpful video! Would you make another video for other Helios 44 lenses?
***** Well - Would love to make one for the 44M-6 or the 44M-7 (as they are really nice too - And the best out of the bunch). Though: As always money is short (and supply too - Need to search for a cheap one - Which take its time ^^).Btw.: Actually I am focusing more on a refurbishment video for Yashica ML glass (the "cheapo" Zeiss Distagon C/Y counterparts) - As it´s also REALLY nice glass (for a quite cheap price) (!) Even more interesting than the old russian lenses (as the "good" models are quite expensive already - 50 to 70€ for a good 44M-7 isn´t surprising - On the other hand a good Yashica ML 50mm F1.7 - the counterpart of the C/Y Zeiss Distagon 50mm F1.7 costs only about 20 to 30€ - 50€ max. for a pristine edition). And they are also REALLY easy to refurbish (like the original Helios 44-2 you can see here) ^^.So: Stay tuned ^^.
About 2 weeks ago, I dismantled my Yashica ML 50mm f/1.4 to clean out the optics. It was interesting, and it is actually quite good in terms of image quality for a 30-year old lens.
Do you work as a lens repairer?
***** Oh. Then you know already of the qualitis of the Yashica ML glass. I have here the 24mm F2.8, 35mm F2.8 and the 50mm F1.7 - For the refurb video series and YES, also to use it by myself ^^. The 35mm F2.8 is also REALLY nice (extremely sharp - Even wide open). The 24mm needs to be stopped down to F4 to get really nice (just in case you´re interested in this one too) ^^.Btw.: No - I am not a lens repairer. Just common interest in vintage glass. =)
+AustrianGeek for you which one is the best? Yashica ML or DB ? (50mm)
DSB are the "cheaper ones" from Yashica. Most of them are built cheaper (they used plastics instead of metal for example) AND they are also not multicoated (just single coated - Or they got less coating layers).
The Yashica ML lenses on the other hand are multicoated and a few "seem to be" even 1:1 copies of the Zeiss CONTAX AE lenses (50mm F1.7 for example - Or the 35mm F2.8). Only difference - The Yashicas are rendering "warmer" due to the different coating on their lens elements ^^. And the later Zeiss CONTAX MM lenses got an optical redesign (and even newer / better coatings). But the optical difference is REALLY small.
Still using the Yashica ML lenses btw. ... ^^
Very interesting video - well done :)
If I can figure it out I will make a tutorial video for fun, hopefully it will help others. I am still waiting for my lens to come from Russia, so I will send you a message if I figure things out! Thanks again :)
nice tutorial!
Great video! Thanks
thanks for the very helpful video. I wish i could find one video this detailed for Jupiter-9! (L39 RF version)
i have few 44-2 some of them wont screw the whole element block..
Yes. That´s a problem. Easiest way: Sell them (and get other ones you can then open up / refurbish). Don´t know exactly why some are not opening up - Maybe they used screw locker on some series (to fixate the inner lens element / the "inner block").
Hmm. The bad is: I never opened up a Jupiter-8. But maybe I can help you. On the front there are no notches - right? Hmm. It looks like, there is a front "shell" with the front lens (like the back element with the glasses of the Helios 44-2). MAYBE you just need to unscrew this whole front element to get to the next level with the notches (you see through the front glass). But that´s only a guess. You should do it like I did: Unscrew / detach EVERYTHING - Only then you´ll know for sure ...
Disassembly the system that moves the fire...!?
+Fabrizio Seri What? Hmm. Please tell me the timestamp.
Then I can maybe solve the riddle (about what I meant) ^^.
Thank you for this.
It´s not THAT of a problem (if you only want to clean it up): Just unlock the front or back rings / elements to remove the lenses. That way you should also get direct access to the aperture blades and you can clean up the elements (if necessary).
If you have mechanical problems, it´s not that easy. Sure - you can try out to open it up. But if you don´t want to take the risk of a damage, just let it be in the actual state. (The problem is too: You have a more "special" edition of the Jupiter-9.)
Cool, where are u from?
AustrianGeek = Geek from Austria (central europe) ^^ LG
Sorry. But I didn´t open up my like new Industar til now (I only removed the lenses to clean them). But the best way is, to search for shematics OR to unscrew EVERYTHING and try to open it up by yourself (like I did with the Helios). Try to remove the focus ring first. And then go deeper. Normaly this old russian lenses are quite easy to open up.
The only way (which I can imagine without changing any of the glasses / optics) is to remove the aperture blades completely (so there is more space where the aperture was).
BUT: I would not recommend it. Because the Helios 44-2 is already quite soft at F2.0 and especially the fine adjustable working aperture ring of the Helios is one of it´s very nice and unique features. (AND: I am sure you will not be happy with a fixed F1.5 lens, which is also quite soft.)
Good way to do it. Especially if it´s a more complex lens =). Let me know if you achieved to repair it. And maybe make a video tutorial too - it´s helping alot, to have a video.
Das Englisch is ja Katastrophe 😅 ... hast du das auch irgendwo auf deutsch?
Welches Fett sollte denn verwendet werden?
lg
gg. Ne. Das gibt es nur auf Englisch. Es gibt übrigens auch nen 2. Teil des Videos (nur mit dem 44-2): th-cam.com/video/EpM3284HkAQ/w-d-xo.html
Schmierung vielleicht mal das OSIM MKL1 ansehen. Das ist günstig und sowohl für Kunststoff als auch Metall geeignet (kann man also auch für modernere Objektive mit Kunststoff-Anteil verwenden. Die generellen Schmierstoffe die man so kriegt sind leider entweder zu dick / schwergängig, sind aggressiv gegen Kunststoffe z.B. (zersetzen diese Bauteile dann) oder sie stinken regelrecht (ich glaube im 2. Video hab ich das Heißlagerfett mal verwendet - Das ging zwar auch - Aber vom Geruch her eben nichts, was man dann in der Kameratasche mit transportieren möchte ^^). Es gibt auch noch das HG10 Schmiermittel (aus Japan) das großteils als "leichtes" Schmiermittel für Linsen verwendet wird (besonders wenn es leichtgängig sein muss bez. Autofokus-Linsen z.B.). ABER: Das verliert leider ein wenig Öl über die Zeit / bei höheren Temperaturen. Bin ich also auch nicht mehr so recht ein Fan davon (weil man erst wieder das ganze Schmiermittel entfernen muss nach einiger Zeit - Ölverlust = ungut wieder in der Fototasche UND wenn der Schmierstoff das Öl verliert heißt das, dass es nicht mehr schmiert / flüssig läuft ^^). LG
Thank you!
Danke
I see the logo is a Valdai logo... not the KMZ.
+gman0973 Yes. This one is a Valdai.
But as far as I remember the other one I mentioned in the video was a KMZ.
(The one which was stuck / which I weren´t able to open up.)
But overall it´s not important - All 44-2 models are quite nice ^^.
thank you for this video...very helpful.
It´s not THAT important which one you use. I used ball bearing / RC racing grease. But it´s quite "smelly". Standard grease is also more than ok. But check the smell before you buy it (if it´s possible). ^^
Btw.: Sorry that I can´t help you more. I would do more videos like this. But it´s hard to find "needy" lenses in acceptable shape (I think it´s a shame to open up fine ones). And also money is always a problem (because I am a student). To be precise / honest: I always have to sell stuff to test out new one. AND to spend a lot of money into broken lenses to fix them (or to TRY to), is a little bit unpleasant ...
I sent you two links to 44m opening. But I think there´s something broken in your lens. Btw.: Be aware, that the 44m lenses are much more complex to open than the Helios 44-2 ...
Hmm. If you need to unscrew it is a good question. Let´s talk over private messages. It´s too uncomfortable here ^^.
can i have your email id? i need to ask you something related to my camera.
thank you awaiting your response
RizHail Sure. Just use my TH-cam namge and add "@gmail.com" ^^
(I just don´t post it completely here - As it´s always a bad idea according automated mail-address searchers.)
Not Laaance its lens
Sorry. But I never had a 44-3 til now.
Может ты и не поймешь РУССКИХ!
Вопрос, зачем разбирать НОВЫЙ РУССКИЙ хоть и старый объектив??? А?
Well. I don´t know the factory new versions of the 44-2 (if there are brand new manufactured ones - Are there?). But I think it´s mainly the price difference which is important. If you´re lucky, you can get the used 44-2 for a few bucks used (and it´s fun and easy to fix them ^^). On the other hand with the brand new lenses you need to be patient, as you could also get fake ones / lower quality ones now. It seems like nowadays for example many 44M-7 are fake - Brand new fake or they replace / reprint the front ring to make an cheaper 44M-4, -5 or -6 to a 44M-7. So overall I would go for the used ones - AND it´s important to check for the differences (so you know, if it´s really a 44M-7 you´re buying). I would go for used ones (if you can find them in good condition) ... ^^