My twin disc was used as a daily driver, and I used it for 6 years. When taken off, it looked new. When dynoing, we learned proper pedal adjustment really helped, or else it would slip also break in time.
You are the goat for testing it out!! I can never find videos of people testing it out how it’s MEANT to be tested. As well as updating us! Great content!!!
Glad to see you made it thru the crazy weather.. we were down there 3 days after Helene and had to go to the east side (cocoa beach) since our hotel @ treasure island got hammered
yea i just swapped mine out for a clutch master. i installed it alittle after you maybe by 2 weeks. disc slipped 5 days ago 4 days ago i couldnt get it up ramps to check it. i went through all the exact same mental gymnastics. lets say im alittle upset. i have an talon tsi on 27lbs and it couldnt take it. No good, thanks for the video.. P.S. i didnt use a stop either but like you it was releasing in the correct spot..
If the adapter plate is not flat it will side load the clutch and destroy the clutch as you have experienced . I have a mazda gtr the conversion is common as is the clutch fault you are experiencing. I hope this helps
I have one not installed yet and wondering if I should take it to a clutch shop to mill the flywheel and discs Just to check it Also wonder is I should change out the diaphragm bolts to something bigger
Think you will find it was fucked before you got it installed.. twin plate clutches have their good points and bad points but most will find a single is much better when you get the right one for said job..
Did you measure the Adler parts before installation? Do you have a clutch slipper valve? I'd get a real single disc"slipper" sintered iron disc clutch in there if I was going to drag race it alot and drop the clutch at 6k. Those twin disc deals grab really hard, its basically impossible to slip it correctly with your foot. And repeated back to back runs without monitoring heat will tear up any of them, esp. that material. Looks like you overheated the crap out of the assy and it warped to me. Hard to say without all the details. Best of luck though! let us know how it goes!
Another solid video, Antonio. Just straight to the point with everything! We specifically produce LEDs for auto. Can we invite you as a collaborator to do a review? If so,How can we connect with you?
Scuse me, but you're in all your minds? AGAIN you bought an NON-SPRING discs clutch for a car which you will drive in city too. WHY that?:Why you didn't choose a spinged double disc from clutchmasters? Or why you didn't put some 240mm sachs performance which in ceramic version it holding some 740nm (they said, but we were runned flawlesly 800++ nm on a VERY HEAVY SHELL of bmw x3 AWD, 2metric tones for dragrace 2024 seson? (1.760ft)
@@StovallsGarage Yeah im running a twin plate Tilton 7.25inch clutch kit. First thing i asked was does the flywheel need machining. They are also only rated to around 600hp of clamp. Yes they will wear quite fast trying to go 9s.
You smoked the clutch, the wear on your flywheel is evidence of driving on a worn clutch. I don't see any problems with the parts, there is still material on the clutch disk, and there are no rivets, they appear to only be glued together, so it wasn't scoring the pressure-plate or the flywheel, and the center of the clutch-plate is not separated from the outside where the clutch material is, you have no springs on this setup, so if the throw out bearing was not riding the pressure plate because the linkage was out of adjustment, you simply FAFO'd what happens when you dump the clutch at 6,000 rpm on slicks. When the clutch is engaged, there is no wear, a clutch only wears when you are slipping it, and this normally only in 1st gear. The warpage on the flywheel will only maybe give some pulsing in the clutch pedal at the start of engagement, but will not cause the disk to slip, the slippage can only be caused by low material thickness on the disks, ( worn clutch ), oil from the rear-main seal, or the linkage out of adjustment. I can't tell what kind of vehicle you are working on, but if it has a hydraulic clutch and way to adjust the rod that the clutch slave-cylinder pushes on the lever that in turn pushes the throw out bearing, I would have adjusted it until the clutch was not slipping again, if I was on the side of the road or something. But it got you home and that's the most you can ask of any car. I just wouldn't blame the parts manufacturer just yet, no parts jobber would warranty what you have shown here. You smoked it, operator error.
@TH-camOdyssey respectfully disagree with almost everything you said. But thanks for the input. friction material dosen't appear to be cooked, and the wear on the flywheel and floaters do not show sings of excessive heat, just uneven wear, which is another reason I don't think it warped due to heat. Leaving the line at 6000 plus is normal on just about every fwd car.you don't dump the clutch , you feather it slightly, I have like 6 years worth of content uploaded if you'd like to know more about the car.
There are very tight tolerances in twin disc clutches. Like 2mm or 0,08in is a distance between 100% pressure and 0% pressure from diaphragm. Discs and plates can look brand new, but you wear them all together just 2mm and you have no clutch. You still can mill flywheel or pressure plate and get this clutch to work, but this will happen again. This adlerspeed clutch is from aliexpress initially, cheap China brand. You can guess the quality of materials.
@MrJermbob if the clutch was not worn out the pressure plate would shown even wear, and good contact. If you wait so long to change your clutch due to normal or heavy use, it can start slipping on hills. What he described is what is called abuse. He got it so hot he damaged the pressure plate, which could have lasted many years. The clutch is not like brakes, you can't wear the pads through to the metal and damage the rotors, which are the same as a pressure plate except you have four sets of brakes and each one has more surface area. The clutch pads are pulling the same weight as your brakes, how fast can you wear out a saet of brake pads? Less than an hour. The rear wheel drive dragster, some have clutch packs they have to change eack run. If this guy is feathering his clutch to avoid wheels pin in a 600 he fwd? I just don't blame the manufacturer for this clutch being worn out. The damage to his pressure plate is due to his driving style. It even has a pressure plate that allows changing how much it grips. I hope he has wheely-bars, that's the best way to keep the front tires from spinning, an eight foot long wheels bar.
@TH-camOdyssey it's not abuse, it's just how you launch a fwd car. th-cam.com/video/mqCZSijo9-g/w-d-xo.html&si=-VofMCJdbS06CnWH this is a data log , I measure differential speed vs flywheel speed to calculate the amount of slip the clutch experiences during a run. during the launch ,there is a minimal amount of slip for aproxx .2 sec, the wheels begin to spin then the clutch is fully engaged. When you launch a fwd car on slicks you do not dead hook, you do not slip through the clutch, you spin the slicks just enough to keep the engine loaded and in it's powerband , but not so much that there isn't any traction. These clutches are ceramic metalic compound, they are designed to handle this type of driving. The clutch failed 3 months (1000 miles) after the drag runs.
@RetreatHacker silence for about 4 weeks, then this video went up and within 4hr they emailed me . They said it was unfair for me to blame them and offered to replace the damaged part to resolve this issue,I never responded.
@StovallsGarage did they offer any reasonable explanation of why this happened? I have dual disc spring version for a b5 Audi track car. It's only about 325hp and it's only used on a circuit road course - no launching. I'm taking notes before install... Actually reconsidering installing at all.
@RetreatHacker They suggested it could have been instalation error, but didn't get technical, I really think its a case of the dighphram being defective, combined with the way the flywheel was finished. I would check it out first, or take it to a machine shop to have it looked at. I don't think these clutches are enharently bad, I think I'm just a victim of poor quality control.
Nowhere was that stated , nore were any specs given for a required surface finish or minimum step height.I agree that it needed to be surfaced but , but not by me. either it should have been properly surfaced from the manufacturer, or it should be stated that it needs to be surfaced in the instructions.
@@StovallsGarage There would be no specs stated for surface finish or height. Surface finish is what the flywheel grinder leaves and is the same for every flywheel you dont dial the RA. The height is simple. You just remove the same on the outer clutch cover bolt pattern area as you do off the face of the friction area on the flywheel. All flywheel grinders know this and do this without any specifying. Every time you do a new clutch you always machine the flywheel. Here when we buy a new clutch we get a free machining as part of the price.
@rype36 Maybe , it's possible I could have over extended the clutch and warped the dighphram, but none of the clutch fingers looked damaged or uneven. Pluse the inner portion of the flywheel had zero markings on it meaning form day one there was an issue. I never installed a stop, because the pates didn't begin to float until pedal was almost to the floor.
My twin disc was used as a daily driver, and I used it for 6 years. When taken off, it looked new. When dynoing, we learned proper pedal adjustment really helped, or else it would slip also break in time.
You are the goat for testing it out!! I can never find videos of people testing it out how it’s MEANT to be tested. As well as updating us! Great content!!!
If it doesn't wear in, it will wear out
Glad to see you made it thru the crazy weather.. we were down there 3 days after Helene and had to go to the east side (cocoa beach) since our hotel @ treasure island got hammered
Yeah it was fun experience. Didn't get too much wind until the very end.
Its extremely important to have a flat smooth surface on your flyweel when replacing your clutch.
@@raymondcascella4920 it was brand new and came with the clutch.
yea i just swapped mine out for a clutch master. i installed it alittle after you maybe by 2 weeks. disc slipped 5 days ago 4 days ago i couldnt get it up ramps to check it. i went through all the exact same mental gymnastics. lets say im alittle upset. i have an talon tsi on 27lbs and it couldnt take it. No good, thanks for the video.. P.S. i didnt use a stop either but like you it was releasing in the correct spot..
@donellmecca.booker5969 I think they have some QC issues to work out. Materials wise I they seem solid. Was really hopping it would have worked out
@@StovallsGarage me too thought i found a hidden gem. they are so close to getting it right. i got the sprung hub and it felt good until it didnt..lol
Im glad you back with the CM clutch
If the adapter plate is not flat it will side load the clutch and destroy the clutch as you have experienced .
I have a mazda gtr the conversion is common as is the clutch fault you are experiencing.
I hope this helps
@dav6913 This was my first thought, but dosen't that usually show wear on the splines, and break the bend disc.
I have one not installed yet and wondering if I should take it to a clutch shop to mill the flywheel and discs
Just to check it
Also wonder is I should change out the diaphragm bolts to something bigger
Yes get the flywheel skimmed and keep around the 5-600whp number these will be happy with.
Yeah would be a good Idea to have it all checked over.
Think you will find it was fucked before you got it installed.. twin plate clutches have their good points and bad points but most will find a single is much better when you get the right one for said job..
Maybe give uniclutch a try. The quality is pretty high and The price is similar to what you paid for the one in your video.
I've been wondering how the Escort has been doing? Clutch Master setup looks much nicer than the Adlerspeed. Did the shirt come with it?
Yeah , it came with purchase.
Did you measure the Adler parts before installation? Do you have a clutch slipper valve? I'd get a real single disc"slipper" sintered iron disc clutch in there if I was going to drag race it alot and drop the clutch at 6k. Those twin disc deals grab really hard, its basically impossible to slip it correctly with your foot. And repeated back to back runs without monitoring heat will tear up any of them, esp. that material. Looks like you overheated the crap out of the assy and it warped to me. Hard to say without all the details. Best of luck though! let us know how it goes!
Another solid video, Antonio. Just straight to the point with everything! We specifically produce LEDs for auto. Can we invite you as a collaborator to do a review? If so,How can we connect with you?
Launching dumping it to hard?,feel for the biting point then release, or just get a quality os giken clutch triple plate
Speculate till cow's come,send it back to manufacturer for inspection??
@markcozzie I sent them an email 3 weeks ago, with pictures and details. I got no response... until today after this video went up.
@markcozzie send it back to China for inspection?! Are you serious? There’s probably a 6-hour warranty on that thing..
They are clutch kits meaning you have to make it a clutchblol
Whered u get that plate to hold your dial indicator?
@@automotiveinspired I made it at work, I originally made it to tram our endmill.
Scuse me, but you're in all your minds? AGAIN you bought an NON-SPRING discs clutch for a car which you will drive in city too. WHY that?:Why you didn't choose a spinged double disc from clutchmasters?
Or why you didn't put some 240mm sachs performance which in ceramic version it holding some 740nm (they said, but we were runned flawlesly 800++ nm on a VERY HEAVY SHELL of bmw x3 AWD, 2metric tones for dragrace 2024 seson? (1.760ft)
My CC clutch lasted about 7 months. Good luck.
CC ? I'm running a Clutchmasters 725
@@StovallsGarage Yeah im running a twin plate Tilton 7.25inch clutch kit. First thing i asked was does the flywheel need machining. They are also only rated to around 600hp of clamp. Yes they will wear quite fast trying to go 9s.
You smoked the clutch, the wear on your flywheel is evidence of driving on a worn clutch. I don't see any problems with the parts, there is still material on the clutch disk, and there are no rivets, they appear to only be glued together, so it wasn't scoring the pressure-plate or the flywheel, and the center of the clutch-plate is not separated from the outside where the clutch material is, you have no springs on this setup, so if the throw out bearing was not riding the pressure plate because the linkage was out of adjustment, you simply FAFO'd what happens when you dump the clutch at 6,000 rpm on slicks. When the clutch is engaged, there is no wear, a clutch only wears when you are slipping it, and this normally only in 1st gear. The warpage on the flywheel will only maybe give some pulsing in the clutch pedal at the start of engagement, but will not cause the disk to slip, the slippage can only be caused by low material thickness on the disks, ( worn clutch ), oil from the rear-main seal, or the linkage out of adjustment. I can't tell what kind of vehicle you are working on, but if it has a hydraulic clutch and way to adjust the rod that the clutch slave-cylinder pushes on the lever that in turn pushes the throw out bearing, I would have adjusted it until the clutch was not slipping again, if I was on the side of the road or something. But it got you home and that's the most you can ask of any car. I just wouldn't blame the parts manufacturer just yet, no parts jobber would warranty what you have shown here. You smoked it, operator error.
@TH-camOdyssey respectfully disagree with almost everything you said. But thanks for the input. friction material dosen't appear to be cooked, and the wear on the flywheel and floaters do not show sings of excessive heat, just uneven wear, which is another reason I don't think it warped due to heat. Leaving the line at 6000 plus is normal on just about every fwd car.you don't dump the clutch , you feather it slightly, I have like 6 years worth of content uploaded if you'd like to know more about the car.
There are very tight tolerances in twin disc clutches. Like 2mm or 0,08in is a distance between 100% pressure and 0% pressure from diaphragm. Discs and plates can look brand new, but you wear them all together just 2mm and you have no clutch. You still can mill flywheel or pressure plate and get this clutch to work, but this will happen again. This adlerspeed clutch is from aliexpress initially, cheap China brand. You can guess the quality of materials.
Man you avoided the fact that half the friction surface on the flywheel was not used in that long ass crappy message.
@MrJermbob if the clutch was not worn out the pressure plate would shown even wear, and good contact. If you wait so long to change your clutch due to normal or heavy use, it can start slipping on hills. What he described is what is called abuse. He got it so hot he damaged the pressure plate, which could have lasted many years. The clutch is not like brakes, you can't wear the pads through to the metal and damage the rotors, which are the same as a pressure plate except you have four sets of brakes and each one has more surface area. The clutch pads are pulling the same weight as your brakes, how fast can you wear out a saet of brake pads? Less than an hour. The rear wheel drive dragster, some have clutch packs they have to change eack run. If this guy is feathering his clutch to avoid wheels pin in a 600 he fwd? I just don't blame the manufacturer for this clutch being worn out. The damage to his pressure plate is due to his driving style. It even has a pressure plate that allows changing how much it grips. I hope he has wheely-bars, that's the best way to keep the front tires from spinning, an eight foot long wheels bar.
@TH-camOdyssey it's not abuse, it's just how you launch a fwd car. th-cam.com/video/mqCZSijo9-g/w-d-xo.html&si=-VofMCJdbS06CnWH this is a data log , I measure differential speed vs flywheel speed to calculate the amount of slip the clutch experiences during a run. during the launch ,there is a minimal amount of slip for aproxx .2 sec, the wheels begin to spin then the clutch is fully engaged. When you launch a fwd car on slicks you do not dead hook, you do not slip through the clutch, you spin the slicks just enough to keep the engine loaded and in it's powerband , but not so much that there isn't any traction. These clutches are ceramic metalic compound, they are designed to handle this type of driving. The clutch failed 3 months (1000 miles) after the drag runs.
What was the reply from the mfg?
@RetreatHacker silence for about 4 weeks, then this video went up and within 4hr they emailed me . They said it was unfair for me to blame them and offered to replace the damaged part to resolve this issue,I never responded.
@StovallsGarage did they offer any reasonable explanation of why this happened? I have dual disc spring version for a b5 Audi track car. It's only about 325hp and it's only used on a circuit road course - no launching. I'm taking notes before install... Actually reconsidering installing at all.
@RetreatHacker They suggested it could have been instalation error, but didn't get technical, I really think its a case of the dighphram being defective, combined with the way the flywheel was finished. I would check it out first, or take it to a machine shop to have it looked at. I don't think these clutches are enharently bad, I think I'm just a victim of poor quality control.
Your flywheel needed a surfacing before use.
Nowhere was that stated , nore were any specs given for a required surface finish or minimum step height.I agree that it needed to be surfaced but , but not by me. either it should have been properly surfaced from the manufacturer, or it should be stated that it needs to be surfaced in the instructions.
@@StovallsGarage Sure but everyone knows to get a new flywheel surfaced unless stated its ready to go....
@@StovallsGarage You cant knock a product you didnt install properly.
@@StovallsGarage There would be no specs stated for surface finish or height. Surface finish is what the flywheel grinder leaves and is the same for every flywheel you dont dial the RA. The height is simple. You just remove the same on the outer clutch cover bolt pattern area as you do off the face of the friction area on the flywheel. All flywheel grinders know this and do this without any specifying. Every time you do a new clutch you always machine the flywheel. Here when we buy a new clutch we get a free machining as part of the price.
Since when? I want to know. When you buy a clutch kit it should come 100% ready to go
Was it releasing all the way???
@@rype36 yup.
@StovallsGarage need that clutch stop
@rype36 Maybe , it's possible I could have over extended the clutch and warped the dighphram, but none of the clutch fingers looked damaged or uneven. Pluse the inner portion of the flywheel had zero markings on it meaning form day one there was an issue. I never installed a stop, because the pates didn't begin to float until pedal was almost to the floor.
@@rype36 All twin plates need clutch stops huh.
@@StovallsGarage Diaphragms always run imperfect. It doesnt matter as the floater plate under flattens that out.
Send it back have them check it out
@@coatingsplatingsjas1powder557 Doubt they would be willing to. Emailed them 2 weeks ago... silence.