Only the data needs to be wired in series. Multiple strips of LEDs will be much easier to wire if you don't run the power lines in series. Bring the data line back from the end of the last LED in a strip but don't bother with wiring power lines from from the end of the strip.
If you want them to receive the same signal (i.e. have the same response for a set of four on each arm), you can still run those in parallel too... The address sharing makes a ton of sense if you want all the arms to behave the same (e.g. run power to a strip on the TOP & Bottom of each arm) and let them share LED addresses, then tack one some different ones for a back panel or canopy backlighting setup.
What I've found most useful has been adding indicator to at least ONE led (enough that I can quickly check that I'm on the correct model with the radio by waggling the right stick). Sounds silly, but it is an easy way to check that (without having to use buzzer/beeper functionality to check the same thing) I just run mine on Arm State, with a common color for disarmed (Yellow or Red), and then it jumps to the matching color of the quad on ARM, and then I'm off.
Been flying for years...and this is one thing that I was too lazy to delve into myself. Now I can program my LED instead of just lighting them:) Thanks!
Without a doubt one of the first things I *needed* to get working the way I wanted it *right away* as a beginner. I did a little LOS coming from CP-helis and liked my "harmless-purple-when-disarmed" and "deadly-red-when-armed" setup, but once I lost my LED strip in a crash I didn't bother replacing it b/c I usually don't regret not having it after flying you know… ,D Thanks for the updates on BF Integration.
that series vs. parallel thing is so helpful! I really wanted to be able to use LEDs as a battery indicator, and nothing more, so now I can without having a mess of wires going back and forth on the arms! Thanks!
Glen A. Larson produced Knight Rider and also Battlestar Galactica. So Watch a Cylon Helmet or the Intro of Knight Rider and you'll know why it's called Larson scanner... :D
@MC's Creations Big love for Knight Rider here, too. 2008 version was disappointing, yet I was actually annoyed they cancelled it after 1 series, because it was finally one man and his car against crime. I have Hitari RC vehicles of BA's van, the General Lee and K.I.T.T on my shelves here, along side them an RC BTTF3 DeLorean and the Red Dwarf Starbug playset, plus too many 80s electronic handheld games... :)
I love ur channel u helped me so much learn so many things from drones like different antennas batteries everything and I wouldn’t have go this far if it wasn’t ur help and I want to say thank you
Hi Joshua. I recently bought a Jumper T16. I see amazing potential. However, though I've been flying for 20 years I have NO experience with OpenTX or FrSky. Virtually all instruction for the T16 assumes you know OpenTX and/or FrSky. I'm a Spektrum guy. I would to do the legwork to help you create a video series for the Jumper T16 for the complete noob. I don't edit video, but I'd learn just about anything to learn this radio and help others to learn as well. Please respond if you are interested. Like I said, I'd do all the leg work I can. I am disabled and this type of hobby is so helpful to my life!
Good advice to check the current draw Josh. I tried running 32 of these directly from the bff3 board and smoked the regulator. I had them set up to change color based on the analog signal from the s2 knob. I cold go through the whole gammut. But scrapped the idea when the regulator smoked. Lol
Joshua, when you're ready to make the FrSky Access video, can you consider a more detailed explanation than the Wiki offers on how Betaflight's RF-Interpolation settings relate to different radio setups, gimbals etc. please …? 😬
I understand all Betflight LED function individually but the way they combine is very non-intuitive. I would love to see an in-depth explanation. Oh, and if you have a F3 FC and wonder why you cannot get LEDs to work, the LED code was thrown out of many F3 targets. However, if you happen to have a linux computer and know how to edit a Makefile it is very easy to build your own version of betaflight with LEDs enabled (you will have to remove unneeded functions like Spektrum telemetry to make it fit).
Thanks for all your time and effort with the much needed and very helpful info for the FPV Quad world!! You've definitely helped me in my adventure! With the LED Strip in BF, Is there a way so set different colors on a switch? For instance on my TX16S, Say I use SC+ for green and SC for off and maybe SC- for blue? I've been trying to find info on how to if you can. Hope you have the insight I'm looking for!!
Glen Larson is a Knight Rider Tv show creator :D and car in that series had this funky red strip of lights on the front going back an forth. Nice easter egg from Betaflight :D
Yeah, back when he was building props for Knight Rider and Battlestar Galactica, getting that effect was a real mad science project of components. Even today, building a Larson scanner using the tech that was available back then is a rite of passage for aspiring electronic engineers, because it requires some serious alchemical hoodoo with the way the pieces interact with one another. Iconic stuff. It's trivially easy with a modern microprocessor, by comparison, and even replicating the original can be done with a step-by-step guide and a parts kit that can be had online for cheap, but it's like solving a Rubik's cube: Even if you're just following the directions in the cheater's guide, you can't help but gain a lot of appreciation for the depth of understanding that must have been required to do it unaided.
Always wondered how to use the led function in Betaflight. You made it sound easy thanks JB. I might throw some glow at my kwads now that I know this :)
Awesome JB, I needed this a long time ago! sort of worked it out myself but I learnt a tonne more today. One of my quads when I bought It a few years back had turn LEDs(DalRC 215Plus) I lost the LED config for that when I updated the FC firmware(Yep, newbie mistake and didnt back up) I will be getting the turns flashing colours now :D. Thank You!!
May I ask you to show how to put LESs on the QUAD? I mean the physical mounting methods. I.e. which positions are better and which is not, how to route the wires from FC to to an arm and to another arm from there or to the front or back of the QUAD..... I wired 26 LEDs in my 5" all over the wings at bottom at front and back and wired them most convenient way I could think of. But after a few flights once one LED got damaged so all the LEDs after that stopped working. Once conneconnection between two arms got damaged (signal/power) the rest after that stoppet. Next time I had to remove the top plate I ended up removing all the LEDs at once. I was really excited to use the function of betaflight before that. But afterwards my thought was LEDs are bogus in freestyle miniquad. After all neither we can see them while flying or we fly at night. 😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔
double sided tape or ty raps will do, the strips JB showed are the regular ones you can buy anywhere, there are also pcb strips with the leds mounted on, and the pcb has mounting holes. checkout AlieE, Sparkfun, Adafruit, the flexible strips are also available in waterproof versions, and come on a reel, and mostly used for interior lighting or DIY wall displays (grid)
@@eric-janvandenbogaard9415 is right, there are tons of products and tons of different mounting methods. I keep waiting to see a frame that's really designed with LEDs in mind, but I'm not holding my breath. It usually winds up being a cable salad, with 24AWG wires snaking all over the place, held away from sharp edges by hot glue and vinyl tape.
@@HatfieldCW the RGB led on such a strip has WS2812b as type number, so "WS2812b strip" will give you a zillion hits on a google search, the "b" stands for that they are polarity protected, so connecting the power in reverse on these will not damage the leds, so buy a reel, and you're good, so a crash will not set you that much back, difusing the light will give a nice effect, since they give very bright light, keep in mind these leds flash very fast, this can give a conflict with the shutter speed of your video camera filming at certain light conditions, also they can give electrical noise, interferring with your FC
Correct, flying FPV has not much use for these LED strips, only others will see it, it will also shorten the airborn time, due to power consumption. also not for night flights since there's a rule for flying at night, with or without mounted lights.
Biggest problem with LEDs on 5" and smaller quads - to find a place where to stick LEDs and extra wiring. Larger LED modules also will add weight. And brighter ones - draw battery a little faster.
The "Larson scanner" was the lightstrip on KITT from Knightrider. I thought it was also the name of the producer or something like that. It was a inside joke.
I have this exact kakute f7 but mine will not work this way.The problem was voltage in was to high and the addressable code would not work.I had to wire them to the 3v3 pad and they all worked fine,but i have the maytek led taillight buzzer combo and after watching your video i see that wont work because that port is only good for 200ma and i have 8 leds and gps so im going to burn up regulator.My question is can i wire in a series resistor on the 5v pad to drop voltage so my address will work.I just went threw all this last week so glad you made this before my regulator burned up.
Thanks im getting just crazy random lights and when im wired to 3.3 there perfect,glad you brought the current draw up i overlooked that.I tried a 10k and 20k to take 5v to 3.3 but that didnt work worth a crap.im just going to wire these straight and not address them.thanks for saving my regulator,i would have lost gps to and t miles from home that would have sucked.
I've read on GitHub that putting a in4004 diode inline with supply voltage to the led strip can help here as there will be like a .7v drop across the diode. I'll be likely trying this myself as i'm running into this issue as well. My flight controller 5v supply is 5.25v and I'm guessing it's to high for the diatone flash bang led board to recognize a logic high data signal
Hello, excellent tutorial. For some reason I cannot independently control them. I’m thinking it is my FC or maybe it is the firmware installed (Betaflight). Any thoughts or other things I should try?
Great vid! Wanted to pick your brain on some LED wiring. I have LEDs that are just pos / neg (no RGB signal). Can I still be able to turn them on and off with just the pos / neg soldered to the LED pads? If not, can I tap the neg to the buzzer GND and use the buzzer to turn them on and off? Thanks for any advice.
If you can wire the LEDs in parallel and get them to work addressed to the same numbers, shouldn’t it be possible to wire just the power in parallel and wire the signal wire in series? This way, there would only be 4 wires, at most, going to each arm, instead of 6 if you were setting up strips for each arm that you wanted all lights to be addressable. I think that the power is always parallel no matter how you wire them.
Can you make them blink in proportion to the motor speeds to make the props look like they're spinning slower in the air with the strobe effect? What about make them blink slowly like on airplanes?
Sorry for this extremely random question. Have you seen the HBO series on Chernobyl? It would be great to see Pro Pilots like yourself flying there. Drone footage would be amazing. It would be epic.
A Frog, I am putting some leds on my Owl los/indoor quad and I used the servo leads to clean it up from the original way I had them wired. Great comment by you!! Tony
I am in the process of adding leds to my drone, long story short, instead of a heatsink for the leds, what would happen if I used the carbon fiber arm of the drone as the heatsink? 2.5 watts max
Larson Scanner The Larson Scanner is named after Glen A. Larson, who produced the Battlestar Galactica and Knight Rider series, and is responsible for introducing scanning red light effects to the sci-fi TV viewing population of the 1970s and 80s.
If anyone has a strip of LED stop working, try bypassing the first LED in the strip. Often times the first LED will be burned out rather than all the LEDs.
Ya know, Your "God Complex" really shows in this one. "...And God said... "Let there be light." And lo, there was light." (Post-solder of course) ;) Love Your stuff man!
Hey jb random dumb question but can you use any type of led while fpv specific leds work can you literally use any led as long as it has a power, grnd, sig.
Only the data needs to be wired in series. Multiple strips of LEDs will be much easier to wire if you don't run the power lines in series.
Bring the data line back from the end of the last LED in a strip but don't bother with wiring power lines from from the end of the strip.
Good point.
Good tip
Yes and if you used these in bigger non quad applications you have to do this or you lose voltage on long runs.
Lumenieer makes a really awesome LED PDB if you wanted the "ultimate solution!" lol
If you want them to receive the same signal (i.e. have the same response for a set of four on each arm), you can still run those in parallel too...
The address sharing makes a ton of sense if you want all the arms to behave the same (e.g. run power to a strip on the TOP & Bottom of each arm) and let them share LED addresses, then tack one some different ones for a back panel or canopy backlighting setup.
Wow they still use the interface that I designed for programing the LEDs from cleanflight days! And they made great improvements. Neat!
Why drastically change something that is already awesome? Just add bonus features.
hellz yeah :D
@@DominicClifton Much love Dominic! you are the man! Thank you for including that in the project :D
Wooo, LED's - the awesome Cleanflight feature I made still rockin' in it in 2019!
Perfect timing, I just added some to a quad I’m donating to my high school for their STEM program.
What I've found most useful has been adding indicator to at least ONE led (enough that I can quickly check that I'm on the correct model with the radio by waggling the right stick). Sounds silly, but it is an easy way to check that (without having to use buzzer/beeper functionality to check the same thing)
I just run mine on Arm State, with a common color for disarmed (Yellow or Red), and then it jumps to the matching color of the quad on ARM, and then I'm off.
Been flying for years...and this is one thing that I was too lazy to delve into myself. Now I can program my LED instead of just lighting them:) Thanks!
Without a doubt one of the first things I *needed* to get working the way I wanted it *right away* as a beginner. I did a little LOS coming from CP-helis and liked my "harmless-purple-when-disarmed" and "deadly-red-when-armed" setup, but once I lost my LED strip in a crash I didn't bother replacing it b/c I usually don't regret not having it after flying you know… ,D
Thanks for the updates on BF Integration.
I was just thinking about this the other day! I was like "Man, I really wish Josh did a video on LEDs". BOOM here it is!! Thanks man!
I do a lot of electrical engineering and I can say that I appreciate how you really go into detail. Very nice presentation. That is a subscribe
Just wanted to thank you Joshua! Your vids have been crucial to me getting my copter off the ground! Keep up the good work!
that series vs. parallel thing is so helpful! I really wanted to be able to use LEDs as a battery indicator, and nothing more, so now I can without having a mess of wires going back and forth on the arms! Thanks!
Glen A. Larson produced Knight Rider and also Battlestar Galactica. So Watch a Cylon Helmet or the Intro of Knight Rider and you'll know why it's called Larson scanner... :D
I always loved the bit in the intro to the A-Team of Face pointing at the Cylon walking past him with a "hey don't I know you?" expression.
Knight Rider ❤
I loved even the Mustang version!
@@licensetodrive9930
:D Starbuck from BSG and Faceman (Tempelton Peck) are one and the same person. It's like the Firefly references in Castle. :D
@MC's Creations Big love for Knight Rider here, too. 2008 version was disappointing, yet I was actually annoyed they cancelled it after 1 series, because it was finally one man and his car against crime.
I have Hitari RC vehicles of BA's van, the General Lee and K.I.T.T on my shelves here, along side them an RC BTTF3 DeLorean and the Red Dwarf Starbug playset, plus too many 80s electronic handheld games... :)
@ZeroFPV I loved the intro when Castle dressed up as a 'space cowboy' for halloween :)
I love ur channel u helped me so much learn so many things from drones like different antennas batteries everything and I wouldn’t have go this far if it wasn’t ur help and I want to say thank you
This was something I just fumbled through in the past. You cleared up MANY of the questions that came up during my fumbling. :)
Yeah that grid on BF really confused me when setting up LEDs. Thank you for this excellent video!
Hi Joshua. I recently bought a Jumper T16. I see amazing potential. However, though I've been flying for 20 years I have NO experience with OpenTX or FrSky. Virtually all instruction for the T16 assumes you know OpenTX and/or FrSky. I'm a Spektrum guy. I would to do the legwork to help you create a video series for the Jumper T16 for the complete noob. I don't edit video, but I'd learn just about anything to learn this radio and help others to learn as well. Please respond if you are interested. Like I said, I'd do all the leg work I can. I am disabled and this type of hobby is so helpful to my life!
they look AMAZING when strobing really quick when you're swirling through the air with other swirly things!! :D
Good advice to check the current draw Josh. I tried running 32 of these directly from the bff3 board and smoked the regulator. I had them set up to change color based on the analog signal from the s2 knob. I cold go through the whole gammut. But scrapped the idea when the regulator smoked. Lol
Joshua, when you're ready to make the FrSky Access video, can you consider a more detailed explanation than the Wiki offers on how Betaflight's RF-Interpolation settings relate to different radio setups, gimbals etc. please …? 😬
Fantastic, Joshua! Thanks a lot! 😃
BTW, on iNav it should be pretty similar... Right?
This functionality goes back pretty far - I don't see why not.
@@tehllama42 Thanks! 😊
I understand all Betflight LED function individually but the way they combine is very non-intuitive. I would love to see an in-depth explanation. Oh, and if you have a F3 FC and wonder why you cannot get LEDs to work, the LED code was thrown out of many F3 targets. However, if you happen to have a linux computer and know how to edit a Makefile it is very easy to build your own version of betaflight with LEDs enabled (you will have to remove unneeded functions like Spektrum telemetry to make it fit).
This was very helpful. I had recently started playing with the LED's and was having a hard time really getting into it.
i have been waiting for this specific video for 2 years now. Thanks again, JB.
Lay out on the grid does matter if you are using the blinker indicator option.
only the numbers count :)
Sweet video, it answered my question about wiring them in parallel as I initially did. It will just mirror the same LED colors on each strip.
Glen A. Larson is a producer of "Knight rider" TV series at 80's. There was a super car with AI with a "scanner" at the top of bumper.
you're awesome! Thank you!
I still can't believe this guys on has 115k subs... just saying Joshua is awesome!
Thank you so much
Great timing sir !!!
Thanks a lot
I was yesterday looking for some led videos but no one explained like you do
Thanks
basic skills and reading manuals/specs of the parts in question, Google is your friend.
Thanks JB for the video. I've been waiting for something like this for awhile... I also ordered the LED's from your link :)
This was a great tutorial for betaflight. I can't find one for inav. I can configure them but no lights. Is there a video for inav somewhere.
Thanks for all your time and effort with the much needed and very helpful info for the FPV Quad world!! You've definitely helped me in my adventure!
With the LED Strip in BF, Is there a way so set different colors on a switch? For instance on my TX16S, Say I use SC+ for green and SC for off and maybe SC- for blue? I've been trying to find info on how to if you can. Hope you have the insight I'm looking for!!
Location of LEDs on the configurator grid does matter for some modes like "Indicator".
you should number the leds on the grid
Nice Josh!
Yes, LED are diodes:-)
Check out Livyu’s last repair video!
Excellent video. I have been waiting to try to figure this out. Thank You
Are there daylight visible LED sets? Eye sight is getting poor. Got a suggestion? 7” prop kawd.
Glen Larson is a Knight Rider Tv show creator :D and car in that series had this funky red strip of lights on the front going back an forth. Nice easter egg from Betaflight :D
Yeah, back when he was building props for Knight Rider and Battlestar Galactica, getting that effect was a real mad science project of components. Even today, building a Larson scanner using the tech that was available back then is a rite of passage for aspiring electronic engineers, because it requires some serious alchemical hoodoo with the way the pieces interact with one another. Iconic stuff.
It's trivially easy with a modern microprocessor, by comparison, and even replicating the original can be done with a step-by-step guide and a parts kit that can be had online for cheap, but it's like solving a Rubik's cube: Even if you're just following the directions in the cheater's guide, you can't help but gain a lot of appreciation for the depth of understanding that must have been required to do it unaided.
@@HatfieldCW I can imagine :D Now: few clicks, 2 wires and you're done
Always wondered how to use the led function in Betaflight. You made it sound easy thanks JB. I might throw some glow at my kwads now that I know this :)
Just got some programmable led for the motors! I’m stoked! Love me some good ole LED action! Thanks J-Bizzle lol
thanks bro i know it 2 years old video but sure glad its here first time doing leds and this made it so easy
Awesome JB, I needed this a long time ago! sort of worked it out myself but I learnt a tonne more today. One of my quads when I bought It a few years back had turn LEDs(DalRC 215Plus) I lost the LED config for that when I updated the FC firmware(Yep, newbie mistake and didnt back up) I will be getting the turns flashing colours now :D. Thank You!!
I'm curious if you only need the signal wire running all over the quad 🤔
Well, what do ya' know? I actually learned something today! Thx.
this is the best vid that explains how to use LED. thx Josh! 👍
there's lots more to know.... so it's not the best video about these WS2812b leds....
Good morning! JB! Have a great day
Been learning a lot from your videos, thanks a lot and I'll keep watching. Im new to quad and just started having my own ARRis 250B To practice on.
Can I turn them on/off with an AUX Channel as well ? Thanks for the help !
I wonder the same question
Is there a way to turn it on\off using a switcher on the radio?
May I ask you to show how to put LESs on the QUAD? I mean the physical mounting methods. I.e. which positions are better and which is not, how to route the wires from FC to to an arm and to another arm from there or to the front or back of the QUAD.....
I wired 26 LEDs in my 5" all over the wings at bottom at front and back and wired them most convenient way I could think of. But after a few flights once one LED got damaged so all the LEDs after that stopped working. Once conneconnection between two arms got damaged (signal/power) the rest after that stoppet. Next time I had to remove the top plate I ended up removing all the LEDs at once. I was really excited to use the function of betaflight before that. But afterwards my thought was LEDs are bogus in freestyle miniquad. After all neither we can see them while flying or we fly at night.
😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔😔
double sided tape or ty raps will do, the strips JB showed are the regular ones you can buy anywhere, there are also pcb strips with the leds mounted on, and the pcb has mounting holes. checkout AlieE, Sparkfun, Adafruit, the flexible strips are also available in waterproof versions, and come on a reel, and mostly used for interior lighting or DIY wall displays (grid)
@@eric-janvandenbogaard9415 is right, there are tons of products and tons of different mounting methods. I keep waiting to see a frame that's really designed with LEDs in mind, but I'm not holding my breath. It usually winds up being a cable salad, with 24AWG wires snaking all over the place, held away from sharp edges by hot glue and vinyl tape.
@@HatfieldCW the RGB led on such a strip has WS2812b as type number, so "WS2812b strip" will give you a zillion hits on a google search, the "b" stands for that they are polarity protected, so connecting the power in reverse on these will not damage the leds, so buy a reel, and you're good, so a crash will not set you that much back, difusing the light will give a nice effect, since they give very bright light, keep in mind these leds flash very fast, this can give a conflict with the shutter speed of your video camera filming at certain light conditions, also they can give electrical noise, interferring with your FC
Correct, flying FPV has not much use for these LED strips, only others will see it, it will also shorten the airborn time, due to power consumption.
also not for night flights since there's a rule for flying at night, with or without mounted lights.
@@eric-janvandenbogaard9415
Thanks for your suggestions.
I prefer stripes over pcb because of weight and aerodynamics.
Super intéressant ce tuto ! Sachant que j'avais un bandeau de led d'1 mètre dont je ne savais pas quoi faire au top JB !
The best tutorial of BF LED config! Thank You!
Biggest problem with LEDs on 5" and smaller quads - to find a place where to stick LEDs and extra wiring. Larger LED modules also will add weight. And brighter ones - draw battery a little faster.
so I have leds on my rtf and the lights did work but I flashed it and now I can't get them back on and I followed your video
One of the most useful videos in a long time!
This will be very helpful information as I put LED on my new quad. Thanks!
thank you :) . some time ago i wanted to wire a larson scanner that goes from the center to the ends, should work if i wire them with a Y-layout
The "Larson scanner" was the lightstrip on KITT from Knightrider. I thought it was also the name of the producer or something like that. It was a inside joke.
Yes Glen Larson was the Executive Producer on the Knightrider TV show so you get 10 points 😎 en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glen_A._Larson
Glen Larson - en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glen_A._Larson
I have this exact kakute f7 but mine will not work this way.The problem was voltage in was to high and the addressable code would not work.I had to wire them to the 3v3 pad and they all worked fine,but i have the maytek led taillight buzzer combo and after watching your video i see that wont work because that port is only good for 200ma and i have 8 leds and gps so im going to burn up regulator.My question is can i wire in a series resistor on the 5v pad to drop voltage so my address will work.I just went threw all this last week so glad you made this before my regulator burned up.
I would just get a dedicated voltage regulator. A series resistor is not a good approach.
Thanks im getting just crazy random lights and when im wired to 3.3 there perfect,glad you brought the current draw up i overlooked that.I tried a 10k and 20k to take 5v to 3.3 but that didnt work worth a crap.im just going to wire these straight and not address them.thanks for saving my regulator,i would have lost gps to and t miles from home that would have sucked.
I've read on GitHub that putting a in4004 diode inline with supply voltage to the led strip can help here as there will be like a .7v drop across the diode. I'll be likely trying this myself as i'm running into this issue as well. My flight controller 5v supply is 5.25v and I'm guessing it's to high for the diatone flash bang led board to recognize a logic high data signal
Thanks for tip ill try that
13:20 if I'm testing I always make sure I'm in turle mode, so the Motors don't start when arming.
Hello, excellent tutorial. For some reason I cannot independently control them. I’m thinking it is my FC or maybe it is the firmware installed (Betaflight). Any thoughts or other things I should try?
wow those strips are pretty cool
please continue a more in depth video explaining the other functions and how to set them up...ie indicators and direction,
When you arm the quad while still connecting to betaflight, the motors wont spin. I suppose.
Blue draws more current than any other color!!
Great vid! Wanted to pick your brain on some LED wiring. I have LEDs that are just pos / neg (no RGB signal). Can I still be able to turn them on and off with just the pos / neg soldered to the LED pads? If not, can I tap the neg to the buzzer GND and use the buzzer to turn them on and off? Thanks for any advice.
thanks so much "!
The mamba mk2 stack has an led pad in every corner! I havent tested yet but maybe already in parallel??
If you can wire the LEDs in parallel and get them to work addressed to the same numbers, shouldn’t it be possible to wire just the power in parallel and wire the signal wire in series? This way, there would only be 4 wires, at most, going to each arm, instead of 6 if you were setting up strips for each arm that you wanted all lights to be addressable. I think that the power is always parallel no matter how you wire them.
Yes you can wire the power in parallel.
Just what I been waiting for ty Joshua Bardwell
Thanks Joshua...u help me a lot from all ur video
Gary Larson was the creator of Battlestar Galactica. The Cylons eye has that pattern.
No, it’s Glenn Larson, not Gary. My Bad.
How do you fit the LED Strip that came with the Flywoo Explorer?
You saved me again. Thanks!
Hopefully thr status, race and beacon profiles will be in the configurator soon. ;o)
is betaflight 4.0 controller supports any type or brand of quad remote control
noob just asking question here.
Tyler this response is unacceptable. I would delete it but I want to make sure everyone sees its not okay.
You can use most any remote as long as the receiver outputs a supported protocol like SBUS, iBus, etc.
@@JoshuaBardwell thanks josh. im still learning this new hobby i found.
Always clear Joshua
Can we change the LED blinking frequency in Betaflight?
Can you make them blink in proportion to the motor speeds to make the props look like they're spinning slower in the air with the strobe effect? What about make them blink slowly like on airplanes?
Sorry for this extremely random question. Have you seen the HBO series on Chernobyl? It would be great to see Pro Pilots like yourself flying there. Drone footage would be amazing. It would be epic.
th-cam.com/video/vU9_AizbSw0/w-d-xo.html
Servo leads would be nice for strips like this :)
A Frog,
I am putting some leds on my Owl los/indoor quad and I used the servo leads to clean it up from the original way I had them wired. Great comment by you!! Tony
I am in the process of adding leds to my drone, long story short, instead of a heatsink for the leds, what would happen if I used the carbon fiber arm of the drone as the heatsink? 2.5 watts max
Now i need ur help is their a setting to program the leds to change every color while flying like rainbow
I think it does matter where u place the led's on the grid for the direction indicator function.. left, right, front, back..
I think the orientation setting controls that. Not sure.
I learned a lot today. Thanks!
Hi Joshua, is there a good and reliable programmable LED light for the Pixhawk 4. And how do I use it on the Pixhawk 4?
Thanks
I'm sorry I don't know anything about Pixhawk
Cut it to 6 lengths of 6?
Stay Kind and Keep Smilin'
Betaflight needs additional functions like pulse(speed adjustable or tied to a channel) and sparkle effect..
i agree, id love to do a fun setup for work time flying and have police lights going at a speed id perfer.
Can I use lasers instead?
Larson Scanner
The Larson Scanner is named after Glen A. Larson, who produced the Battlestar Galactica and Knight Rider series, and is responsible for introducing scanning red light effects to the sci-fi TV viewing population of the 1970s and 80s.
Now i understand, thanks Joshua
If anyone has a strip of LED stop working, try bypassing the first LED in the strip. Often times the first LED will be burned out rather than all the LEDs.
Ya know, Your "God Complex" really shows in this one.
"...And God said... "Let there be light." And lo, there was light." (Post-solder of course)
;)
Love Your stuff man!
@Joshua, can this in any way override the blheli32 LED settings?
No, blheli LEDs are not programmable by the FC. You can change them to a fixed color in blhelisuite but that's it.
@@JoshuaBardwell that's what I thought. My blheli32 tello32s don't retain the choose color after a power cycle.
Shai Perednik Neither do mine (Tekko32).
Most helpful channel
Is it possible to assign a switch to turn it on and of? If so how?
Cheers mate. U know way too much for my little brain to comprehend! ✔🏍🌟🙋🖑🎖🍻🍷🏃👍
Hey jb random dumb question but can you use any type of led while fpv specific leds work can you literally use any led as long as it has a power, grnd, sig.
What gauge wire should you use?
You don't need a big wire. 26 to 30 gauge should be fine.
does the tinyhawk support this from factory?
will the LEDs compromise flight time?
Not in any meaningful way, unless you're using a really tiny battery.
@@JoshuaBardwell like a 1s tiny whoop.?