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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2024
- NEWER DESIGN now available. • Optical Sensor for MrB...
A 3D printed part for the Mr. BulletFeeder to use a proximity sensor.
Fusion3D file here: (this is NOT the file you upload to the 3D printing service)
a360.co/2QWP0DL
Download .stl file here: drive.google.c...
Upload the .stl file to here for printing: print.all3dp.com Use mm for measure and Multi-Jet Fusion as the process. Currently $23.
NOTE: You will have to clean the threads for the sensor with an M18 X 1.0 tap. If you have to drill the hole any, use a 17mm drill. You might can use a 21/32 which is slightly smaller, but the plastic material should work with that.
Rough sketch of electrical hookup drive.google.c...
By request I've added a 9mm version. Here's the .stl file
drive.google.c...
************* UPDATE (17 Jul 2022) *************
Here is the part with the 3D printed threads for the sensor. This is a .3mf file which is a newer, improved version of the .stl files.
drive.google.c...
*****************************************************
Uploading and connections will be the same for the 9mm as for .223
FAIR WARNING: I have not ordered the 9mm version so I can't say with 100% certainty that it will work. But there's very little different, so it should be OK. Price as of 01/20 is $30 which includes black and polish.
Prox Sensor www.amazon.com...
Relay www.amazon.com...
Use 1/4" push female connectors on the relay
Connect the two Mr. BulletFeeder wires to 30 & 87a on the relay. They should already have the 1/4" connectors from where they were connected to the trip switch on the feeder tube. Doesn't matter which wire to which tab.
Connect the +12 Wall-Wart to 86 on the relay and BROWN on the prox sensor. You can crimp them together in a 1/4" push-on connector.
Connect the -12 Wall-Wart to BLUE on the sensor. Use butt-splicer or solder and shrink wrap.
Connect the BLACK sensor to 85 on the relay with 1/4 tab.
The wires are small, so you may need to solder them to the push-on tabs.
The wall-wart can be 9-12 VDC. The prox sensor will work with less than 9, but I doubt the relay coil would reliably work below 9 or so. If you only had a 6 VDC power cube, give it a try before buying something else. It takes very little current to operate the sensor and relay, so very small power cubes will work.
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Great.... and I meen GREAT video!!! I've been having the same issues for a week of trying to figure out what to do! Thank you.
Outstanding sir your design is a life saver
Micro switch on my .45 bullet feeder just broke. Now I'm thinking about replacing it with an inductive one as I have some lying around here. Awesome idea. Thank you!
Thanks for the idea, schematic drawing and the link to the sensor. I have been building an air powered sizer for my cast powder coated bullets and I needed a method of cycling the ram and bullet feeder. I used limit switches for the feeder in and out but I wanted something to confirm that the sized bullet had dropped before the feeder dropped another bullet into the die. This worked great and offered the added benefit of operating a counter to show the number of bullets sized, not just ram strokes. Until I saw your video I thought that prox sensors required a PLC and complicated design to operate. This was a great help to completing my project. Thanks again Rex!
Wow, this really thrills me. So glad this helped you. And thank you for letting us know.
Thank you Rex for your contribution. Excellent work on the design. I noticed the 9mm stl v2 file doesn't have the proximity switch threads included. Do you have a version that includes the threads?
I discovered immediately those very fine threads don't work well (or at all) as printed threads and it is necessary to go in with a tap to make them work. Right away I bought an 18mm tap for that purpose and have used it a lot over the years since.
Also I feel the design I came up with later which uses a light sensor instead of an induction sensor works better. Most of all, I like the newer design because everything is in one package and the external wiring is eliminated except for the power cord which plugs in.
And finally, while I truly love either of these for .224 bullet sizes, I don't see any advantage to them over the Mr. BFF model when the bullets are 100 grains or more.
BUT, if you'd like an STL version with the sensor threads, I will make one available later this morning. Check the links in the description for an update.
@@RexRoach Thank you Rex. I originally didn't see your new design until now. The new design looks great! Unfortunately, I've already purchased all the electronics using the proximity method. I printed the 223 switch dropper last night with a Nylon Glass filament and It turned out great. After running a quick 620 grit sandpaper pass, the switch threaded in perfectly. I think in most cases the various filaments will have a little shrinkage to create a good snug fit. Thank you for posting the tap specs. I plan to get it for the 9mm version.
What motivated me to go with your design, I found the Mr. Bullet Feeder switch area caused a lot of hangups. I tried every possible fix and nothing worked. When I saw your design solution, it logically made sense to pursue it. In the near future, I plan to go the optical route for 10mm.
Well done! great design. does the job and looks sleek.
Very nice Rex! Wish I was that smart!
Thanks so much for making these files available! Worked like a charm for my setup and British 303 loads after I adjusted the tube diameter in Fusion 360!
You're very welcome. I'm right now uploading a new video about a new OPTICAL sensor for MrBulletFeeder. It's a more compact, easier to set up design. Check it out later today.
Brilliant work. I've been working on a home made case feeder and have had issues with the switch sensitivity. I may give this a try. I also bought a 3d printer to create a bullet feeder and this will come in handy. Thanks again, I am impressed.
Thank you, Josh. Best of luck with your project.
Thanks for that F360 file, you do a few little tricks in there that I haven't ever tried or even thought of. BRAVO!!
Thank you very much. You asked in a separate query how I put the "scallops" in the part with Fusion 3D. Create a workplane tangent to the body where you want the groove. Create a sketch on that plane and draw the shape of the groove (scallop). Subtract (cut) that shape but only for a shallow depth. Then create a circular pattern of that feature to get it on the remaining sides or legs. Hope that makes sense and helps.
Io ho installato la tua modifica. Veramente ottima. Grazie e complimenti
Meraviglioso. Grazie per avermelo detto. Ti auguro tanta fortuna e divertimento con il tuo Dillon. Ciao!
have to say i just stumbled across this and its amazing!!!!!! Rex, i appreciate you sharing this video the STL.s, and other various links! but as with everything it leads to questions.
i tried to hook up my sensor(the same you suggested) and it does nothing....?? fiddled with some wiring and now it makes my feed plate spin when the light energizes?? lol i'm not an electrical master but do understand typical wiring, (have done normal drag car stuff for years with relays).
i have a worm gear driven DC 20RPM motor from like BangGood, a RMP switch with on off toggle and the sensor and relay finishing it off with a 12v dc adaptor running 1amp to a barrel plug any assistance would be great.
Daniel, start with the sensor. When you put metal near it, the light should come on. That will validate the sensor's working.
The problem you are likely encountering is the double-double nature of the sensor and the double nature of the relay. Lots of combinations.
If your sensor is PNP then the signal wire will become ground when the sensor is energized (light on). In that case, connect one side (85) of the relay coil to 12 vdc+ and the other (86) to the sensor signal wire.
If your sensor is NPN then the signal wire will become "hot" (12 vdc +) when the sensor is energized. In that case, connect one side of the relay coil to ground and the other to the sensor signal wire.
Next, your sensor may be NO or NC, that is normally open or closed. Here you simply observe if the relay trips when the sensor comes on (lights up) or when the light goes out.
You should have one wire connected to your motor at all times. This can be either 12 vdc+ or ground. The other power wire will connect to the relay (30) and a third wire will connect from the relay to either 12 vdc+ or ground and it must be the opposite of the other wire to the motor. The third wire will connect to 87 or 87a. The easiest thing is to try one and see if the motor runs when the sensor is NOT energized. Swap it if not.
Hope that helps.
@@RexRoach i do in fact have a NPN "NO" sensor. i'll attempt your suggestion and report back! thank you again for the info and advice. it REALLY is nice to get a SOLID man such as yourself providing some info on this sort of thing and not just sending the original post into "space" and not tending to the message after you sent it! it is few and far between to find a person willing to "help" nowadays....
Rex, u were 100% correct. And why I missed it idk…. The “motor + source” was moved to the 87 center prong and I tried everything or so I thought and that was it…. Now with your diagram “flipped” plus a sensing wire jumper sending 12v to my 30 relay plug it works.
Do u suspect any issue with power (or sensor life) using a shared ground back to the wall outlet vs running them thru the relay?
Thank you again for the help, and GOD bless you and your family during the Holidays.
@@danielholland4385 If I understand what you're asking, a shared ground seems fine to me. Best of luck with this. I'm happy you built it. Merry Christmas and God bless.
@@danielholland4385 That's very nice of you to say. Much appreciated.
Hi Rex, I'm loading on a Mark 7 Apex 10 and limited on vertical space. What is the length of the dropper?
It's a bit over 11 inches tall to where the spring tube begins. That's measuring from the top of the die holding plate.
nice work! The Fusion3D link is down! Are the files still available? Thank you
Thanks for looking. I developed a newer model which is shown here. th-cam.com/video/l3G5GfcfFvc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=4iRmmTvzTzY0MXel I think you'll find all the 3D part files are available for the newer design.
Just awesome!! I submitted my order to CrafCloud just a few minutes ago. Thank you for sharing you your ingenious idea and design work, Rex! I admire you ingenuity and willingness to share!
You're so very welcome, Jimmy. Please let us know how it works out for you and don't hesitate to ask questions if need be.
Hi Rex. Awesome design and functionality. I have a quick question regarding the proximity switch. The one you are using is it Normally open or Normally closed.
Thank you for your time.
Hi Jingo -- It's a bit of a tricky question. You can use either one: normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC). Because you are using the prox switch to turn a relay on or off and not directly operate the Mr. Bulletfeeder motor, it doesn't matter which one you use.
If you use an NO prox, then the relay will "normally" be off and when a bullet stops at the prox, the prox will close and energize the relay. In that case, you want the Mr. Bulletfeeder connected to the NC contacts on the relay. When the relay is off, the NC contacts are closed and Mr. Bulletfeeder runs. When the bullet appears, the prox closes which energizes the relay and opens the NC contacts and stops Mr. Bulletfeeder.
If you use an NC prox, just use the NO contacts on the relay. It works either way.
Just to make matters more confusing for you, these proximity sensors come in two varieties: NPN and PNP. I prefer the NPN as they tend to handle a bit more current, but again, it really doesn't matter.
If you have an NPN prox, the black wire will provide "ground" for your relay, so one relay wire connects to the "hot" or plus side of your power supply and the other connects to the black prox wire for ground.
If you have a PNP prox, the black wire will provide "hot" or plus DC to the relay. In that case, connect one relay wire to the ground or negative side of the power supply and the other to the black wire.
In both cases, one relay wire always connects to the black prox wire. The other goes to + for NPN and to - for PNP. The black wire matches the name, so NPN the black provides N or negative and with PNP the black provide P or positive voltage.
So all together there are four possibilities and any one of them will work. I suppose you could make a case for one being more "fail safe" than the others, but I quit thinking about it at that point. I didn't want to injure my brain.
THANK YOU SIR! I was trying to figure out these two things for hours.@@RexRoach
You're very kind to share the print file and all the information. Thank you. I have had this same issue with .22 bullets. Been able to tune the switch so that it works most of the time. Sometimes it gets jammed though. Maybe I'll bite the bullet and build this also. I'd like to try the ring sensor, but they are rare and very expensive. I've got question for you, as this adds weight to the other side of tube have you had any issues with the tube resetting down? In the beginning I had much issues with the inner collar wedging to the outer collar even from the spring weight pulling the tube to side. That was due to bad surface finish (grooves from turning) on the inner tube. I had to grind it smooth to stop it from doing it. Ill effect of that is I got rid of the protecting anodizing..
Thanks for you comments and question. I'm a little bit uncertain as to what you are describing. Are you talking about the sliding part in the bullet feeder die? I know that can be sticky if pulled sideways by the feed spring. I have the sensor oriented opposite the side the spring pulls, so they tend to balance one another. Is that it?
@@RexRoach Exactly that sliding part in the bullet feeder die. Didn't thought about that, that you had the sensor on opposite side. Then it is in balance. Very nice.
@@RexRoach Hello Rex, hope you're doing fine. Inspired by your solution I did similar setup. Please see if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/D-U6a8i2uHI/w-d-xo.html I gave you credits of the idea on my video, hope it is ok..
Hi. Love your work. Is it possible to mod file for a .45? I built one with electronics already for 9mm and 223. Thank you
Rex, Terrific information and idea. For those of us who went to public school and are not as talented as yourself or don't have access to the resources that you do, is there someone out there that is selling the tube you designed? I might be able to figure out the proximity sensor and relay switch (with your directions) but it's the drop tube that I have the biggest concern for where to find one. Any help would be appreciated?
Thank you for the reply to the previous question got the proximity sensor into the 3d printed unit perfectly. Now is it possible to have a defective proximity sensor? mine lights up but does not go out even when I put a bullet in front of it. I took it out of the 3d printed unit and the light will not turn off even with a bullet in front of it. The sensor is a NPN NO. It is my understanding that if the sensor light goes off it has detected a bullet in front of it.
Try connecting only the brown (+) and blue (ground) wires. The sensor should only light when there is metal in front of the tip. A screwdriver or such works fine as a target. It should not light up all the time.
If that works, put a voltmeter with the black (com) lead to the black sensor wire and the red lead to the + DC where the brown wire connects. It should read 0 v when there is no target and +12 or whatever your supply voltage is when tripped.
Be sure your power supply is DC volts around 12 v. I have a number of "wall-warts" that produce AC voltage outputs. Double check the polarity.
Again thank your for your assistance. I did the test you described and the sensor is lights up all the time and there is 12 volts across the brown and black wires. The sensor did not activate even with a metal wrench in front of it. I think the sensor is defective. Does the sensor have to be a 300ma or can it be a 200ma?
@@kennethpeterson5610 The 200 or 300ma number is the amount of current the sensor can "pass" to a device such as the relay in this case. As long as the device draws less current than the sensor's rating, you're OK. I ***think*** the relay coil draws 150 ma which would work fine with a 200ma sensor. The sensor itself draws very little current, although I don't recall how much.
If you have the blue wire to ground or -, and the brown to + 12VDC, the black UNconnected, and the sensor is on all the time, I'd say it's defective. If the light is on, you should read 12v between the black and brown and 0 when the light is off, but since your light doesn't go off no matter what, then the sensor must be defective.
Very clever design, would you be able share the fusion file please? Thank you
Thanks. I've added a link to the Fusion3D file in the description.
@@RexRoach Hi Rex, i tried doing wiring but no success would you be able draw a rough drawing of connections please. Thank you
@@ganeshkhedekar5041 I've added a link to this rough sketch. Get it here: drive.google.com/file/d/15NnV97zDsTUdA52C-dFRR3MYKXz3S97i/view?usp=sharing
Excellent design. I now have my own 1050 and am waiting for my Mr bulletfeeder conversion for .223 since it is all back ordered. I would love to incorporate your proximity switch into my operation. Are you selling it commercially yet?
No, I don't plan to sell it, but you can freely download all the files needed to print your own. If you have a 3D printer, that's great; if not, you can use a commercial service. I think the cost these days is about $28. Check the details in the description area.
Wow I'll just make it better outstanding
Rex, I really want to purchase one of your 22 caliber proximity switch activated drop tubes. Where do I send payment ? Payment by USPS money order or credit card ?
Wow Rex what did u do for a living if u dont mind me asking
Sorry, I missed your question earlier, Luke. I was a design engineer for a heavy equipment manufacturer.
Up loaded the .stl file listed to craftcloud received my printed unit today and the proximity sensor would not thread into the unit, it is too small to fit the sensor. something failed here, so any advise here would be appreciated.
If I did not make this clear in the video, I apologize sincerely. Threads as small as the 18mm sensor threads cannot be successfully 3D printed, so I made them a tad undersize so you can clean it with an M18X1.0 tap. I did not need to drill before tapping, but if you do, a 17mm drill is the proper size, although you might could use a 21/32 (which is slightly smaller) since it is plastic. Please accept my apology for any confusion.
What unit of measure did you use when asked? It's asking for MM, CM or Inches. I assume MM. I have ordered the prox and relay. Need to order the print now.
Thanks,
UTG
I submit the .stl file here: print.all3dp.com and then choose the HP process using black nylon. Takes about a week to get the part from when you place the order.
@@RexRoach It's asking for unit of measure. I assume mm?
@@utgreenhead Yes, use mm and choose Multi-Jet Fusion as the method. It was $23 when I checked today.
I don’t have the print in yet, but received the prox and relay. I tried to test without the printed tube, but for some reason my prox is staying normally closed. I ordered the same one you listed “NO” but mine will only run when I have something metallic held up to the sensor. Any ideas?
@@utgreenhead My apologies. I gave the wrong number for the relay. You need a 5-pin relay that has both NO and NC connections. With that relay, you can use either an NO or NC prox. In the case of the NO prox I specified, when a bullet (metal) is near the tip, the prox "turns on" and provides ground via the black wire. You have your relay coil (85 & 86) connected to 12 V+ and ground using the brown and black wires of the prox. The relay is seeing 12V+ all the time, but only gets a good ground when the prox is activated by nearby metal.
So when the prox switch turns on, it also turns on the relay. You must use the NC contacts (30 & 87a) so the MBF motor will run all the time until a bullet gets near the sensor. When the sensor turns on, the relay turns on and the NC connection is opened and the MBF motor stops.
If you have an NC prox, the relay will be on until the bullet trips the prox and you would use 30 & 87 on the relay which are the NO contact. Thus the MBF motor will still stop when the bullet trips the prox.
Hope that helps and I'm very sorry about the bad info from me. I've corrected the part number for the relay in the description along with the terminal change on the relay (87a instead of 87).
By the way, you can get those relays at any auto parts store.
Hi Sir, this is really amazing, Is there any change, that you could Modify this, to accommodate 9mm Bullets, and provide a STL. What would that cost ?
Thank you. I think it would not be a problem. On the other hand, the 9mm setup from Mr. BulletFeeder works perfectly. I know because I have one. Why would you not want to use that? Granted, the sensor is "cool" and high tech and you can "be the first kid on the block" to have one on your 1050, but just getting the "regular" one from MBF would be a LOT less trouble.
BUT, just for fun, I will have a go at a 9mm model.
I've added a 9mm version in the description area. Price at ALL3DP.COM is $30 with black and polished finish. No guarantees. This is an untested design, but it's close enough to the working model that it should be OK.
@@RexRoach Hi Rex, First of all, I am based in South Africa, so Mr. BulletFeeder, cost 2 x more than what a press is here. I have to add, that I am using a Lee Loadmaster, and have a Printed version of an Open Bullet Feeder. I have used a Microswitch in the Past, but this proximity sensor I believe would be more accurate. I am awaiting for my Hornady lock and Load Bullet Feeder die, and would like to utilise this "tube" between my open bullet feeder, and the hornady die. I am not sure yet, if all this will work, but, I will sure be very happy, if your Modification does the Job. Thank You for the trouble.
@@lourensbrits7347 Thanks, Lourens. I hope it works for you. If you need some modifications to the design to match up to the Hornady die and/or your Open Bullet Feeder, let me know and I'll be happy to help you. By the way, in 1984 I spent several weeks in South Africa in and around Barberton. I loved it.
@@RexRoach Thank You, I would appreciate it if you could. I have 3 Files, that I believe are what I am looking for, that need to be combined into one file. How can i get these files to you ? Basically the top end, should just accommodate a Spring, that feeds the bullets, and the bottom end of your Tube, should fit onto a 9mm Hornady Bullet Feeder Die. I don't have the die as yet, so can't measure the diameter ? I believe this might give us the Dimentions needed for the Die - www.thingiverse.com/thing:2897337 and I know 100% my Spring fit into the top part, of this - www.thingiverse.com/thing:3357445 So it would be a combination of your Tube, and the top and Bottom of these ? I am not sure if there are better ways to contact you, and or if I could share an E-mail here. But I would appreciate it, if you could assist with a sample file, that I could have printed, and test here.
Thank You for the trouble.
Rex, I would really like to purchase one of these 22 caliber drop tube and sensor from you. What is the total I would would need to send you USPS money order and how to send it to you ? Thank you for your assistance .
Now if you could figure out something for the awful primer system one fowl up and you have primers every where.
To be fair it's a good priming system...until it isn't. You are spot on about what happens when things go south. I have discovered one trick I've never seen anyone do on TH-cam. As you know, when the priming system has trouble, and you need to remove it, what do you do with that almost full tube of primers? If you remove or raise the primer slide actuator arm so the primer slide is free to move back and forth using your fingers, you can dump the primers out the bottom of the press by sliding the slide back and forth. Once you try it, you'll see how easy and quick it is. Takes about fifteen seconds to empty an almost full tube. Just put a cup or something underneath to catch the primers.
@@RexRoach Thanks for the replay I ask Dillion and they didn't know that trick, but I sure will try it.
@@sportsfan205 My crystal ball shows a new video in the making.
Outstanding! I definitely want to buy a complete setup for 233/5.56. How do I go about ordering/paying for one?
Would you make one for 9mm, one for 45acp, and one for .308.
Any chance you could email me the stl file?... just thought I’d ask
I don't have this for sale, but I've posted a link where you can download the .stl file. You can get the sensor and relay from Amazon or eBay. I would not bother with one for pistol calibers like 9mm or 45 ACP as those bullets work perfectly with the original Mr. Bulletfeeder. I feel certain Mr. BulletFeeder also works well with .308 because of the greater weight and length of the bullet relative to the .224 bullets.
Thank you very much for the quick response and for posting the .stl file. I have been fighting with my .223 bullet feeder ever since I got it. It was quite the relief when I found your video on how you solved the exact same problems I was having. Is the .stl file you posted for the version where you added extra threads to better support the sensor?
@@surplusbikebags3086 Yes, it has slightly more thread length and it makes a big difference. Do you need info on the sensor/solenoid/wall-wart that I used? I suppose I should add that info along with a sketch of the wiring in the description area.
Ok great! that’s what I was hoping for. I got all the parts and wiring info from your other video. I’ll be putting one of these together and very soon. Thank you for your help.
Hello again, my friend (that has a 3D printer) that is going to print this for me to try, said that his printer works best with .dxf files. Do you have the .dxf file for this? If you do, could you post it? Thank you.