Great setup. I have to note though that I would not store that amount of poweder right next to my reloading press. I know its a one in a million chance that a primers blows up and ignited the hopper, but its a chance I would avoid if its done that easily. I would hate to see not only the hopper blow up but also the 10kg of powder behind it. That would be a mess ;)
Lol I know this video was made years ago, nonetheless I have a suggestion. Instead of using a step ladder to look into the bullet feeder / case feeder to see how much you have left, just mount a mirror above it pointed down so you can see inside just from standing on the ground
Thanks for sharing, I am currently printing mine as I now have RSI from making 1000/week. Any updates on how it's running & any more advise or improvements? Cheers
Great video! How are you turning the collator plate with the motor? How are you coupling to the motor shaft and what actually turns the plate? I'm envisioning an allen key with a T handle and a coupler with set screws
Hello, I printed a small alignment guide to aid in drilling a small hole thru the middle of the flat on the keyed drive shaft. Then the shank of that bit can be cut off and pushed thru this hole with a sleeve in place to give a centering fit on the rotating plate and drive shaft(called an anchor in the original design). You end up with a "T" drive. Take a look at the notes on the thingiverse site as I go into some detail. The original design had the all plastic anchor drive the hopper, but I thought that might break.
What model printer and cost have you encountered making this? I like what you have done. I will need 9mm, 40, 45, 375, 223 and 300BLK so printing them out may be best. Is that the only part +spring+ dies to change calibers? But the machine is a one time print?
I'm using a creality CR-10. I printed four or 5 bases. For calibers and spares. Go to thingiverse on the web and look at the parts you will need to print. Mind boggling at first, but it's actually one at a time and why not print a few extras while your at it. plastic for the one shown is probably two or three dollars. Of course the mr. Bullet feeder bullet drop that I'm using is closer to $100, motor and controller together is probably $25 or so and random screws and such. I loaded like 5K of 9mm and haven't really done anything with it since. But I'm going to do a separate one for 223 in the next few weeks. And I have everything for the 223, 40, 45, 308. Thing is, with the rifle calibers I enjoy doing one at a time, except for 223...
I like the controller box and bullet drop tube adapter that you designed. Will you share the stl? I printed the bullet feeder and I'm waiting on the pwm and uxcell motor to arrive. Thanks
tekhobbycap my motor came in and I made a aluminum drive instead of the printed one and I bought a 12v 20rpm motor but your right a 10rpm would be perfect. I'm running it at 6v. I sent you a pm on thingiverse
question: Did you have cut some of the pipe spring off to make fit into large spring housing? because mine issticking out 1/4 from top of spring house , will not go done to flush. bought 4pc set at menards.
Yes. Take a look at the picture I added to the files on thingiverse this past weekend. My old but ugly spring from actual pipe bending fit the spring housing about perfect (45 size). The new shiny one for this project was too long at the flare. Cut about 4 or 5 turns off with a dremo tool and it works fine. All of the flares are somewhat different (new set vs old set). Unless you have the very same pipe benders springs I have, you may need to do some cutting or filing.
The bullet feeder has no relays, just a speed controller switch and a bullet drop switch. Unless I was gabbing about something else in the garage I said relay but meant switch. There is a cheap light break switch I was looking at that does have a relay on it, that could have been mentioned as well.
Yes you can. On this video I'm just showing how I adapted this design to work with an Dillon XL650. The thingiverse files I uploaded also have notes for the various parts I made and the why's. Your hopper mount will likely be different, for example.
Hey scooter0241, I know I'm two years too late in answering, but yes, it is very easy to use the OpenBulletFeeder with a Lee Load Master press. Someone did design and make the necessary parts to use it with the standard Lee Bullet Feeder kit, which is the Lee bullet feeder that works wonderfully well with the Load Master. Hooking up an OpenBulletFeeder collator to it is the proverbial icing.
Hi my friend, very nice video. I may have a solution for your 223 switch I set up a IR interrupter to stop the droping of bullets. I could send you some photos and a part list it is quite simple using the original drop tube from thing.. . in exchange maybe you can help me with mounting the motor onto the hopper. I will try to make a short video for everyone to use the IR switch but I have never made a video before or posted one so it may be some time.
Hello, please do make the video. A light brake switch should work regardless of bullet weight, with the downside of some complexity, guaranteed to work with 223 however. Generally you'll gave to power both the light source and detector, barely any current draw but more wires than a micro switch. I briefly showed an IR interrupter with a built in relay for use with 223, just didn't talk much about it; under $5 on ebay. I also found that if you use a wire brush contacts in place of the photo resistor it only needs to pass about 2.5 mA of current. So if your only only using bullets that conduct electricity (not powder coated or some dip lubricant) this could work too. I currently have a drop switch set-up using the cheap micro switches that is almost 100%, that is if the bullet stack at the switch is only one bullet, that bullet can be pinched against the bullet drop tube with just enough force to hold the bullet their. This switch seems to have as light of actuation as the bullet feeder switch that mr. bullet feeder uses (bought one, the specific one use for 223 only). I still need to polish the inside boar of the drop assembly at the micro switch; because were printing layers of plastic there are slight "Bumps" for each layer on the inside surface. Probably, a 55 grain bullet would fall free with the movement of the press in use as it currently is. Just have to try it and find out. Another possibility would be to use a longer drop spring or run the hopper fast enough to insure that the several bullets are always in the process of dropping when the drop switch goes into the stop position. The weight of two bullets as I currently have it will successfully pass the switch, when bullets below the switch stop supporting the bullets column at the switch.
What problems are you having in mounting your motor? Amazon has many motors that will mount to the hopper, you just need to choose which hopper type you want to print. I bought an assortment kit of metric M3 Bolts, another of M3 nylon locking nuts, all in Stainless Steel. 30 rpm motor works fine, I also bought 10rpm motor am a little concerned that if it has much too torque, that it might brake some plastic if something should jam. A 30 rpm running slow works really well.
Hey bud, I wanted to see if I you would be willing to share the .stl files for the mounting brackets and the controller housing and anything else you printed in the original AmmoMike files on Thingsverse thanks! great channel
Great setup. I have to note though that I would not store that amount of poweder right next to my reloading press.
I know its a one in a million chance that a primers blows up and ignited the hopper, but its a chance I would avoid if its done that easily. I would hate to see not only the hopper blow up but also the 10kg of powder behind it. That would be a mess ;)
Great info on the PWM switch. Much appreciated!
Great video! Thanks for sharing the finished product! A bullet feeder is next on my list. I’m still trying to decide to build or buy.
Build! you can get all the parts printed online and the elctronics from Double Alpha for under $150
Nice job.
Does is better cut the power line using the bullet sensor switch before the engine or before the speed control unit ?
Do you sell these. I need one but do not have nor know how to use a 3d printer.
Any chance you still have the plans for the bullet feeder?
Lol I know this video was made years ago, nonetheless I have a suggestion. Instead of using a step ladder to look into the bullet feeder / case feeder to see how much you have left, just mount a mirror above it pointed down so you can see inside just from standing on the ground
I used a coat hanger wire to mount a mirror above my dillon case feeder when the 650 first came out.
Thanks for sharing, I am currently printing mine as I now have RSI from making 1000/week. Any updates on how it's running & any more advise or improvements? Cheers
Wow thanks for sharing!!
Question, what did you use on your motor to spin the collator plate or did you customize your plate print for a hex head or a tbar?
Does anyone have a copy of the schematics for it? would love to make one.
Great video! Thanks for sharing!
Nice build , I would like to make one myself.
But I don’t get the schematic for the 3D printer, can you please send it to my ?
Great video! How are you turning the collator plate with the motor? How are you coupling to the motor shaft and what actually turns the plate? I'm envisioning an allen key with a T handle and a coupler with set screws
Hello, I printed a small alignment guide to aid in drilling a small hole thru the middle of the flat on the keyed drive shaft. Then the shank of that bit can be cut off and pushed thru this hole with a sleeve in place to give a centering fit on the rotating plate and drive shaft(called an anchor in the original design). You end up with a "T" drive. Take a look at the notes on the thingiverse site as I go into some detail. The original design had the all plastic anchor drive the hopper, but I thought that might break.
What model printer and cost have you encountered making this? I like what you have done. I will need 9mm, 40, 45, 375, 223 and 300BLK so printing them out may be best. Is that the only part +spring+ dies to change calibers? But the machine is a one time print?
I'm using a creality CR-10. I printed four or 5 bases. For calibers and spares. Go to thingiverse on the web and look at the parts you will need to print. Mind boggling at first, but it's actually one at a time and why not print a few extras while your at it. plastic for the one shown is probably two or three dollars. Of course the mr. Bullet feeder bullet drop that I'm using is closer to $100, motor and controller together is probably $25 or so and random screws and such. I loaded like 5K of 9mm and haven't really done anything with it since. But I'm going to do a separate one for 223 in the next few weeks. And I have everything for the 223, 40, 45, 308. Thing is, with the rifle calibers I enjoy doing one at a time, except for 223...
I like the controller box and bullet drop tube adapter that you designed. Will you share the stl? I printed the bullet feeder and I'm waiting on the pwm and uxcell motor to arrive. Thanks
Eric Johnston ,
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2504314
BrazilianShooter I have the bullet feeder but he designed an adapter for the drop tube and the control box housing. Tekhobbycap
Hi Eric, I'll make it a priority to get them uploaded this weekend. I loaded over 5000 9mm rounds since this video, works fine.
tekhobbycap my motor came in and I made a aluminum drive instead of the printed one and I bought a 12v 20rpm motor but your right a 10rpm would be perfect. I'm running it at 6v. I sent you a pm on thingiverse
question: Did you have cut some of the pipe spring off to make fit into large spring housing?
because mine issticking out 1/4 from top of spring house , will not go done to flush.
bought 4pc set at menards.
Yes. Take a look at the picture I added to the files on thingiverse this past weekend. My old but ugly spring from actual pipe bending fit the spring housing about perfect (45 size). The new shiny one for this project was too long at the flare. Cut about 4 or 5 turns off with a dremo tool and it works fine. All of the flares are somewhat different (new set vs old set). Unless you have the very same pipe benders springs I have, you may need to do some cutting or filing.
Isn't that just a simple contact switch, rather than a relay?
The bullet feeder has no relays, just a speed controller switch and a bullet drop switch. Unless I was gabbing about something else in the garage I said relay but meant switch. There is a cheap light break switch I was looking at that does have a relay on it, that could have been mentioned as well.
Do you have any plans to sell these? If so, I would like to get on the buyer's list.
Thank You.
I'm assuming I could get the to work on a different press? I have a lee load master.
Yes you can. On this video I'm just showing how I adapted this design to work with an Dillon XL650. The thingiverse files I uploaded also have notes for the various parts I made and the why's. Your hopper mount will likely be different, for example.
Hey scooter0241, I know I'm two years too late in answering, but yes, it is very easy to use the OpenBulletFeeder with a Lee Load Master press. Someone did design and make the necessary parts to use it with the standard Lee Bullet Feeder kit, which is the Lee bullet feeder that works wonderfully well with the Load Master. Hooking up an OpenBulletFeeder collator to it is the proverbial icing.
What model/make of printer did you use to print it?
Creality cr-10.
Petg instead of pla.
Hi my friend, very nice video. I may have a solution for your 223 switch I set up a IR interrupter to stop the droping of bullets. I could send you some photos and a part list it is quite simple using the original drop tube from thing.. . in exchange maybe you can help me with mounting the motor onto the hopper. I will try to make a short video for everyone to use the IR switch but I have never made a video before or posted one so it may be some time.
Hello, please do make the video. A light brake switch should work regardless of bullet weight, with the downside of some complexity, guaranteed to work with 223 however. Generally you'll gave to power both the light source and detector, barely any current draw but more wires than a micro switch.
I briefly showed an IR interrupter with a built in relay for use with 223, just didn't talk much about it; under $5 on ebay. I also found that if you use a wire brush contacts in place of the photo resistor it only needs to pass about 2.5 mA of current. So if your only only using bullets that conduct electricity (not powder coated or some dip lubricant) this could work too.
I currently have a drop switch set-up using the cheap micro switches that is almost 100%, that is if the bullet stack at the switch is only one bullet, that bullet can be pinched against the bullet drop tube with just enough force to hold the bullet their. This switch seems to have as light of actuation as the bullet feeder switch that mr. bullet feeder uses (bought one, the specific one use for 223 only). I still need to polish the inside boar of the drop assembly at the micro switch; because were printing layers of plastic there are slight "Bumps" for each layer on the inside surface. Probably, a 55 grain bullet would fall free with the movement of the press in use as it currently is. Just have to try it and find out.
Another possibility would be to use a longer drop spring or run the hopper fast enough to insure that the several bullets are always in the process of dropping when the drop switch goes into the stop position. The weight of two bullets as I currently have it will successfully pass the switch, when bullets below the switch stop supporting the bullets column at the switch.
What problems are you having in mounting your motor? Amazon has many motors that will mount to the hopper, you just need to choose which hopper type you want to print. I bought an assortment kit of metric M3 Bolts, another of M3 nylon locking nuts, all in Stainless Steel. 30 rpm motor works fine, I also bought 10rpm motor am a little concerned that if it has much too torque, that it might brake some plastic if something should jam. A 30 rpm running slow works really well.
Looks like the original design has disappeared
Hey bud, I wanted to see if I you would be willing to share the .stl files for the mounting brackets and the controller housing and anything else you printed in the original AmmoMike files on Thingsverse thanks! great channel
Yes, I'm going upload them this weekend.
Thanks Tek, I appreciate it. Checked it out. Looks great! Thank you!!!
I hate that the design is nowhere to be found now. 😭
Got it uploaded: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2772454.
Uggghh I hate you (sarcasm). Your vid is well done. I'm going to have to give this a try now.
i wanted to watch this video...but you shaking the camera makes the video indigestible.