This video was assigned to study along with material provided..Great video, as a huge notetaker use to be written but also typing this video material was really interesting and well worth watching because I was able to remember what was narrated while hitting stop to continue writting down my thought note to relate to what was narrated...Tone of narration is a big plus for me.Looking forward to watching more.Thank you
Lot of great free information on hvac on youtube. Free. Nice people who always outdo each other. Who needs to pay for loans to pay back with this group of volunteer professionals
I'm going to explain a couple of things regarding brazing. Hopefully this helps someone. Copper Phosphorous filler rods aren't compatible with steel so this video wouldn't apply for steel or stainless steel. If you're brazing copper and you do a variety of jobs involving different metals, you most likely already have silver solder brazing rods lying around which are all around a better product. Stick with the silver brazing rods instead, your joints will be stronger. When brazing if you don't want to deal with oxides or scaling in copper tubing, an inert gas purge is recommended. It's not a matter of overheating. nitrogen purge is done because the heated copper reacts with the air inside the tubing to form oxides. This is otherwise known as oxidation or scaling. nitrogen gas is inert to copper and doesn't contain oxygen so when the copper is heated the nitrogen gas prevents oxides from forming. The video makes it sound like you don't need flux. You still need flux because it helps create good joints most of the time by preventing or removing surface contaminants. The last thing you want is a high pressure joint failing because the part wasn't properly cleaned or you used oxy-acetylene and contaminated the joint with oxides. stainless steel is very finicky about surface oxides which is why black flux is recommended to properly braze it. Black flux also has a higher protection temperature of 1700 degrees F. Flux for brazing acts as a protective layer to prevent a bad joint. In some cases there are flux products that will change color to tell you when the base metal is ready to wet with filler. Harris sells a product that goes from green to clear when the base metal is ready to braze.
I’ve done copper to steel, copper to brass, brass to steel and stainless steel all with Harris 45 and white flux. The flux turns glass like when the joint is at the proper temp. Copper to steel needs to be slowly cooled. I tried once with a wet rag and could hear cracking noises.
I wouldn't use a wet rag, water quenching risks micro fractures on the joint. there's this putty that muggy weld sells. It's called "heat freeze" it stops heat from going past the joint you're working on. i suggest using that and letting the joint air cool after brazing.
Copper-phosphorus rods are for copper lines, not steel. The video is talking about copper-phosphorus rods, Which have a lower melting point and are compatible with less materials than the silver rods. Silver brazing rods work on steel and copper. SSF-6 will also work on steel but costs more since it's supposed to color match steel. My apologies if i left out that i was talking about "copper" phosphorus rods in my original post.
So no wet rags on R134a systems ONLY?! Can someone explain this please? What the hell does the refrigerant type have to do with moisture being drawn into the system if what he said was true?
This video was assigned to study along with material provided..Great video, as a huge notetaker use to be written but also typing this video material was really interesting and well worth watching because I was able to remember what was narrated while hitting stop to continue writting down my thought note to relate to what was narrated...Tone of narration is a big plus for me.Looking forward to watching more.Thank you
Lot of great free information on hvac on youtube. Free. Nice people who always outdo each other. Who needs to pay for loans to pay back with this group of volunteer professionals
Excellent info. Thank You !
very well explained. thank you for this.
Best video the most in TH-cam fill the joint 10%
Top quality information and presentation - thank you.
Great video, thanks!
Very infornative..thanks Laurus
Excellent video
Thanks .... Good concept
I'm going to explain a couple of things regarding brazing.
Hopefully this helps someone.
Copper Phosphorous filler rods aren't compatible with steel so this video wouldn't apply for steel or stainless steel.
If you're brazing copper and you do a variety of jobs involving different metals, you most likely already have silver solder brazing rods lying around which are all around a better product.
Stick with the silver brazing rods instead, your joints will be stronger.
When brazing if you don't want to deal with oxides or scaling in copper tubing, an inert gas purge is recommended.
It's not a matter of overheating. nitrogen purge is done because the heated copper reacts with the air inside the tubing to form oxides. This is otherwise known as oxidation or scaling.
nitrogen gas is inert to copper and doesn't contain oxygen so when the copper is heated the nitrogen gas prevents oxides from forming.
The video makes it sound like you don't need flux.
You still need flux because it helps create good joints most of the time by preventing or removing surface contaminants.
The last thing you want is a high pressure joint failing because the part wasn't properly cleaned or you used oxy-acetylene and contaminated the joint with oxides.
stainless steel is very finicky about surface oxides which is why black flux is recommended to properly braze it.
Black flux also has a higher protection temperature of 1700 degrees F.
Flux for brazing acts as a protective layer to prevent a bad joint.
In some cases there are flux products that will change color to tell you when the base metal is ready to wet with filler.
Harris sells a product that goes from green to clear when the base metal is ready to braze.
Harris has it all. Call their 800 tech line.
I’ve done copper to steel, copper to brass, brass to steel and stainless steel all with Harris 45 and white flux. The flux turns glass like when the joint is at the proper temp. Copper to steel needs to be slowly cooled. I tried once with a wet rag and could hear cracking noises.
I wouldn't use a wet rag, water quenching risks micro fractures on the joint.
there's this putty that muggy weld sells.
It's called "heat freeze" it stops heat from going past the joint you're working on. i suggest using that and letting the joint air cool after brazing.
phosphorus is a very small percentage of silver alloy brazing rod and is built in flux. seems to work as that's what most supply shops have stocked up
Copper-phosphorus rods are for copper lines, not steel.
The video is talking about copper-phosphorus rods,
Which have a lower melting point and are compatible with less materials than the silver rods.
Silver brazing rods work on steel and copper.
SSF-6 will also work on steel but costs more since it's supposed to color match steel.
My apologies if i left out that i was talking about "copper" phosphorus rods in my original post.
thank you for the info
Where is the soldering?
I’ve only watched my guide do it a few times but after watching this I feel like I’m a pro
best available
So no wet rags on R134a systems ONLY?! Can someone explain this please? What the hell does the refrigerant type have to do with moisture being drawn into the system if what he said was true?
Moisture in 134a creates a corrosive
@@joshalmendinger4153 Isn't moisture in ANY system corrosive?
@@joshalmendinger4153 You don't want moisture in ANY REFRIGERATION SYSTEM......Not just R134a
great information ..but 240p??? daamm
is eeezzz what it eeezz
Love hvac techs always a better way!!!
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