Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels. At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more. Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on TH-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job. Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀 And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- th-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html ☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info ⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐ ☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark ☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐ ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq 🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
Haha! I'm a barber/stylist and just found this channel! I made the mistake of using the mesh without hot mud so about to start over and fix all this mess I have caused 😢 but at least now I know why its all cracked now
How's this for going old school: I still use the brown bag Durabond every once in a while. Maybe two bags a year. The stuff that literally hardens like a rock. The places I use it are in areas where taping is a pain, like when fixing cracks in old textured ceilings. I only use it as a bottom coat and very sparingly. I also use it to fill areas to bring up a patch to wall levels for those times when there's a big difference in depth between the patch and the old wall. Because it's literally rock-like, it's great for filling deep and wide gaps where taping is difficult. It's especially helpful in old homes with plastered walls. Home Depot and Lowes have discontinued it. Menards still sells it. Glad they do because it has saved me a lot of time.
Some Lowe’s have it. They can ship one store to another if you have a few days. I just bought 3 bags so that I don’t have to drive 20 miles next time I need it. I use it to prefil and 1st coat on FibaFuse.
Be sure to OPEN THIS COMMENT for more info. 🟢 To access the links below, please open your browser and manually type in the link I show you. If I give you a clickable link, TH-cam penalizes my channel. Thanks The information below can be found on my website at ✨www.ThatKiltedGuy.com✨ ☑️ DRYWALL COURSES- Sign up for our email list to be notified of future Drywall Courses you can take, AND we'll send you a discount offer each time we release a new course. If you'd like to say thanks and show your support for all our help, ✨visit thatkiltedguy.com✨ for different ways you can do that. 🟢 FOR TOOL AND MATERIAL RECOMMENDATIONS, VISIT 🟢 www.thatkiltedguy.com/store There's a lot more useful information there including blog articles, links, email list signup and more. 🟢 OTHER PLAYLISTS THAT CAN HELP YOU OUT 1- Drywall Taping and Mudding School th-cam.com/video/S90GKnHJsrs/w-d-xo.html 2- My Best Drywall Mudding Tips th-cam.com/video/Ax1D8tgZowg/w-d-xo.html 3- Wall and ceiling textures anyone can do th-cam.com/video/eKkDBGHCbJo/w-d-xo.html 4- Skim Coating video playlist th-cam.com/video/4T6x7wiP-aA/w-d-xo.html 5- Removing Popcorn Ceilings th-cam.com/video/IkqCj0wFzwU/w-d-xo.html 6- Drywall Hanging Playlist th-cam.com/video/N71arzPsDcQ/w-d-xo.html 7- All Natural ways to control Mosquitos and more th-cam.com/video/D-GNd2OaU8Y/w-d-xo.html
I have two little holes and I was going to use the DAP drywall patch repair did you get from Home Depot and I noticed those patches when they were installed in the patch even when it was on the wall where ever the hole was that that patch was covering you had a soft spot so I didn’t want to use what does patches so I have mash tape that is I guess 4 inches wide or 6 inches wide I’m not exactly sure so I Cook a piece of the tape mistake and put that over the whole I made it large enough to I thought there would not be a soft spot everything looks great but right in the middle where the mesh tape is covering right where the hole was the mud feel soft so that’s when I looked this up on TH-cam and I watched your videos so if I use the 20 minute mud do you think I would be fine The hole is it a little larger than 2 inchs it’s just a break with always the drywall is soft not real everything else looks great I send it in between coats and I send it again yesterday and everything looks great it’s just soft where is that hole is
Have a Question? Join My TH-cam Membership to get PRIORITY Replies, perks and more. th-cam.com/channels/SinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0w.htmljoin Ready To Take Your Skills to the Next Level? (Open this) ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING EBOOKS ⭐ 🟢 Take the next step in learning. Read my new ebook "How to Quickly Improve Your Mudding Skills" at: geni.us/DrywallsecretsEbook 🟢 Learn tips & tricks for spraying Knock Down Texture- geni.us/knockdownebook 🟢 Guide to Drywall Sandpaper, what to use, when etc- geni.us/SandingGritGuide 🟢 And you'll find even MORE ebooks and guides in my store. ☑ DRYWALL COURSES- Sign up for our email list to be notified of future Drywall Courses you can take, AND we'll send you a discount offer each time we release a new course. Sign up at: www.thatkiltedguy.com ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) For 10% OFF Any tools, enter the code KILTEDGUY10 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 For a Hawk & Trowel Set- geni.us/urlJsH ☑ TapeBuddy easy Novice Drywall Tools 🟢 Mixit Paddle - geni.us/MixitPaddle 🟢 TapeBuddy simple taping tool - amzn.to/3KN9tVY 🟢 TapeBuddy Taper, mixer and bucket scoop- amzn.to/38UdUkm ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Mesh Tape dispenser (optional) - geni.us/Meshtapegun 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for beginners or pros alike- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Rubber Skimming blade mentioned in other videos -geni.us/rubberblade 🟢 Wen Vacuum Drywall Sander (Good one for a low price) - geni.us/Wensander1 🟢 The Dewalt Mud Mixing Drill I use (super tough) geni.us/DewaltMudDrill 🟢 For our full drywall tools store- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase 🟢 The best paint extension pole 2-4' (for the sander above too)- geni.us/extensionpole 🟢 A quiet compressor for the texture hopper- geni.us/mycompressor ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz 🟢 Drywall Mesh tape - geni.us/Meshtap ☑ Strait Flex cornerbead and specialty repair tape 🟢 Strait Flex Mud Pro- homedepot.sjv.io/babRXk 🟢 Strait Flex Perfect 90 (forms in/out corners at any angle)- homedepot.sjv.io/y2g60V 🟢 Strait Flex Outlet Patch - amzn.to/3JtsFJK 🟢 Strait Flex Multi Patch - amzn.to/3n6m3JI 🟢 Strait Flex Crack Tape - homedepot.sjv.io/6eW5DK ☑ My Camera Gear 🟢 Sony A6400 Camera. (I have 3 they are so good)- geni.us/SonyA6400tkg 🟢 My Wireless Lav mics, AWESOME mics- geni.us/1wVNfJy 🟢 GoPro Hero 9 - geni.us/ocAa Thank you for being part of my channel.
Thats odd because I use pro set 30 alot. I've tightly polished over joints that I have 1st and second coated with 30 min and have has zero issues on the finished product. I do for the most part do my final coat while doing patchwork with reg mud tho..
Use that 20-minute mud with PVA glue in the water. 25% for structural and less for not. Works like charm and delays drying before curing. few things hot mud swells, most primers make hot mud swell so use a good hotmud sealer, you definitely need 2 coats of good primer to stop flash through. Learned all this the hard way.
Loved your video AND your shirt. Just the right message all the way around! (Oh, and I've been tape 'n bedding for a long time, and I can attest to your recommendations. Final coat = regular mud.)
This is good info. I'm a painter who does the occasional taping or popcorn removal job. I've started using 210 on larger jobs rather than 90 just so I don't have to worry so much about a full bag setting up on me before I can use it up. I think I'll probably switch back because I can see the 210 drying out in spots before it sets. I'd also add that I usually start filling screws with hot mud once it starts to harden but before it becomes unusable, drying before setting shouldn't be an issue there.
I can't thank you enough for this info. I've literally googled with at least 7 different queries asking for an answer to why my hot mud wasn't setting up in some areas (but not everywhere) after several hours with nothing but useless results. This was especially perplexing because I would always test to see if it had set yet by lightly applying pressure to one of the lap marks to see if it was hard yet. If it was, I'd proceed with scraping down the high points with my knife, only to see my knife make an awful gouge into the mud that didn't set up, ruining the coat. Turns out I just didn't know that hot mud shouldn't be used for thin floating. Since learning this from you, I pretty much only use hot mud for pre-filling, taping, and occasionally on the first coat after tape.
I have to sand my life away. That’s the situation I’m in. I went a little too heavy and didn’t scrap off hard enough with knife. What sand grit do you recommend to help me out of this situation? Thank you
Oh man so interesting. I had to re-do some ceiling tape joints because of some light cracking and couldn't figure out why.....now I think I just figured it out. Never again, last coat with all- purpose. Thanks!
Great video sir...all I buy is EZ sand 5 minutes to do patches because I get impatient waiting for it to dry..lol but for the most part I don't like using hot muds because I like to take my time 🙃
2 points to make, I had the same thoughts about EZ sand, but 1 thing I do to counter my concerns first of all when I use 45 or 90 and I want to speed up the setting time I use very warm water when mixing it works, for EZ sand 5 or 20 if I want to extend the setting time I use refrigerated cold water when I mix it, it allows you to not have to worry about hurrying, to do this allows you to take your time, sometimes I run out of the type I need, by using the different temperature water with the type that I have, I may not have to run back to the store right away.
USG recommends you only use paper tape for any tape and bedding. They also recommend you score the factory butt joints with a blade for better adhesion, but who does that? Every single time I have to repair old patches (not mine), its because the previous patches used hot mud that is just falling off the walls and ceilings with some scraping. I actually like to use my hot mud unmixed on my tray until I start tapping. So i put water first, then hot mud, stir a little bit and then start tapping. Ill have some dry stuff and wet stuff in my tray the whole time as I am applying. My time to mix a tray is less than two minutes, It cures faster, then I just scrape with a 90 degree angle any imperfections once it hardens up, but before it begins to dry.
I’m just doing DIY. I don’t understand if I have to do a flat light coat because is hard to sand(beginning of the video), how I’m gonna be able to do a tick coat to make it work? (What you said at the end of the video)
good tips, man i need to create a cheat sheet to consolidate all the info for drywalling , lots of potential "gotchas". I think I'll make a when to use/do what matrix.
Thanks for the info! I think I knew instinctively that ready mix mud was the wrong product for deep voids, but hated the dust, muss, and mixing of setting mud. When my brother and I were looking at an old fixer-upper years ago (it was being “flipped”, I’m sure), the owner had a crew of day laborers patching large voids with buckets of All Purpose. I don’t know how many coats he’d applied, but the shrinkage cracks were huge. He was planning on hiding everything with paint
When i worked professionally as a finisher I preferred 90min for all but the top coat and inside corners. I did not know about a thickness requirement.
Really good advice, thank you. I've worked with plaster and drywall since I was in my early 20s for my own remodel work and have used setting mud for my screws; no longer
good video. the w estpac light weight hot mud can be skimcoated thinner than 1/8 but you can't work it too much otherwise it can lose its bond. I've also had a few tiny spots fail when floating some ceilings when it bubbles and you don't skim it tight immediately
Director, can I use 90 to apply some thickness? Is it solid? Can I mix colors with it or on top of it? I want a material close to Venetian plaster. What do you advise me? Thank you for everything you provide.
This is especially true when you go over existing hot mud with a thin layer and you go to sand it. The top layer kind of peels off the bottom layer and you end up with voids. Terrible situation because now you have to sand it basically down or go over it with all purpose.
Guy, I’ll give you a situation- I am painting a bedroom and will be repairing screw pops, minor scrapes, and small holes where screw anchors were. I have a small bag of Easy Sand 5, small tub of All Purpose Joint Compound (green), and a tub of Spackling Paste. Which one of those will give me best results?
It really depends on what you’re fixing exactly, and your skill level. Five minute can bite you in the butt if you’re not fast enough. It will literally set up in your pan before you get it on the wall if you’re over mix it or take too long to get the thickness right. Hot mud should only be used on fills deeper than 1/8 of an inch. Otherwise regular joint compound works on everything except deeper fills Hey I really rely on the support of my viewers to put these videos out and answer your questions. One easy way is to leave us a Super Thanks below the video or become a member of my TH-cam channel. You’ll get priority replies to your questions, bonus content and more. Here’s the link to join my TH-cam membership. m.th-cam.com/users/sponsor_channel/UCSinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0w?noapp=1
I have a 8ft x 16" ceiling patch that needs about 1/4 fill before the finish coat (textured swirl) Do I need to use a primer-bonding agent or does the 45m hot mud already have that built in? Thx for your vids!
If you have a huge dip or whatever in your drywall and all you have is All Purpose (Green Lid) if you instead of putting it on real deep in 1 coat, if you add smaller amounts in multiple coats will it still shrink and crack? LIke if you added that all purpose to that box mold you showed on the video but added all purpose in several coats would it still shrink and crack like that?
can you use hot mud to fill say large gaps between wall board in a ceiling of say where the corner cracked off when installing the board due to poor measurement?? If so how thick should you first application be??
Thank you sir, this advice came at the perfect time. I have a ceiling I'm about ready for prime and paint in the morning. I did 2 coats of hot mud and one coat of all purpose. Have a couple small tweaks I would like to hit but was sitting here looking at a bag of 5 min hot mud, thinking if I skim it with that I will be good to go..then I saw this video. Now I'm thinking I will give it a light scrape, sand and prime ... then hit it with some dry dex to bring it to its final state. What do you think of this game plan?
It really depends on what it needs and I can’t tell you that from a text description. But I would definitely stay away from the hot mud as it’s not good for skim coating. You can learn a lot more in my new Drywall courses at www.DrywallAcademy.com
I can’t answer that with a text and anybody that tries may mislead you. Watch more of my videos. I have over 200 so search for the playlist that would help you. Thanks
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY It kicks it down to the state level from what little I know. As opposed to a mandated 100% ban across the US. Thanks for your service!
Question for you sir. I was repairing a ceiling using 20min and I applied a very light or skim coat over the repair. For some reason the 20min took forever to dry.....are u saying it took longer to dry because it was a skim coat vs a heavier coat? Thanks!
What I said was that if you put hot mud on really thin, it dries before it cures. If it’s a 20 minute hot mud, it needs 20 minutes to cure and if it dries before that, it doesn’t cure right. Hot mud can take much longer to set up over painted surfaces and non-porous surfaces.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Bingo.....it was a painted surface sure enough. I dont need a thick coat of mud for my next repair so after listening to you I believe I should use 45min and give it a day to dry completely. I watch many of your vids....thanks for the knowledge.
@That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement Hello, I just took down my popcorn texture in my garage. I also took down the tape as it was loose. So here is my plan. Screw any loose drywall boards, mesh tape, hot mud (2coats), plus 3, apply new texture(orange peel), prime then paint. Is that ok?? Is my order correct or is there something else I need to do?
@@jr7003 ok. Well your comment doesn’t really make sense. All I said was this can fail if you use it wrong, not that it’s a bad product at all. Hope that clears it up.
Good to know. Im in the middle of redoing a bath remodel i did 10yrs ago. Walls look perfect. Ceiling not so much All the joints have hairline cracks and where i had to reposition a recessed light the paper tape in one spot just completely let go and fell in the floor. The entire room was done with new sheetrock. 1/2" on walls and 1/4" over dry scraped popcorn on ceiling. All joints were finished with paper tape and 45min mud. I fixed one ceiling crack about 2 months after 1st remodel by adding some more screws along the joint and scraping out the old paper tape and used mesh tape and 45min mud again. It too has recracked. I think i can fix the moved recessed light with mesh tape instead of paper and hot mud but this time finish with and all purpose. But im not sure the best way to approach the hairline cracks at the seams. Do i need to cut away the paper tape and go with mesh or just mesh over the top? Thanks in advance. Great videos!
Great info as usual. Does this apply to where the mud gets thin around the edges where you're feathering a patch? Is it ok if you're going over with a texture done in all purpose? Also, could you add a link to the 15 hot mud tips video to the description? Thanks Guy, you rock!!!
You answered my question I was trying to figure out if hot mud just needed to set or needed to thoroughly dry before putting another coat on it. I’m not really sure how thick it can be applied. I’m trying to get it a half inch thick.
Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels.
At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more.
Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on TH-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job.
Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀
And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall
Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg
Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com
Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- th-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html
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🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6
🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U
🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx
🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj
🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH
☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools
🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander
🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper
🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife
🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq
🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement
☑ Miscellaneous Tools
🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder
🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase
☑ Miscellaneous supplies
🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz
DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
You really are awesome. I am a hairdresser, but thanks to you I am pretty damn good at drywall repairs. Thanks
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Haha! I'm a barber/stylist and just found this channel! I made the mistake of using the mesh without hot mud so about to start over and fix all this mess I have caused 😢 but at least now I know why its all cracked now
How's this for going old school: I still use the brown bag Durabond every once in a while. Maybe two bags a year. The stuff that literally hardens like a rock.
The places I use it are in areas where taping is a pain, like when fixing cracks in old textured ceilings. I only use it as a bottom coat and very sparingly. I also use it to fill areas to bring up a patch to wall levels for those times when there's a big difference in depth between the patch and the old wall. Because it's literally rock-like, it's great for filling deep and wide gaps where taping is difficult. It's especially helpful in old homes with plastered walls.
Home Depot and Lowes have discontinued it. Menards still sells it. Glad they do because it has saved me a lot of time.
Ace hardware still carries it as well.
Ace hardware still sells durabond 90 in the brown bag
Some Lowe’s have it. They can ship one store to another if you have a few days. I just bought 3 bags so that I don’t have to drive 20 miles next time I need it. I use it to prefil and 1st coat on FibaFuse.
I'm a painter, I love using 20 or 5 minute for touch ups and repairs.
Yep, depends on how big the fix is determines the time
I can barely get 5 mixed good before it sets up.
@@matthewotis3594yeah I need at least 3 just to get it mixed up and looking creamy
I use EZ Sand 45 for most cases and 20 when I'm pressed for time and only use it to fill gaps. I finish with USG Plus3 and it's perfect every time.
I love EZ sand, because I hate sanding 😂
Thanks Pops, I really appreciate you and all your knowledge 🙏🏽 🙌🏽 💯 ❤️ Alteady passed along your channel to my family 🥰
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Be sure to OPEN THIS COMMENT for more info. 🟢 To access the links below, please open your browser and manually type in the link I show you. If I give you a clickable link, TH-cam penalizes my channel. Thanks
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There's a lot more useful information there including blog articles, links, email list signup and more.
🟢 OTHER PLAYLISTS THAT CAN HELP YOU OUT
1- Drywall Taping and Mudding School
th-cam.com/video/S90GKnHJsrs/w-d-xo.html
2- My Best Drywall Mudding Tips
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3- Wall and ceiling textures anyone can do
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I have two little holes and I was going to use the DAP drywall patch repair did you get from Home Depot and I noticed those patches when they were installed in the patch even when it was on the wall where ever the hole was that that patch was covering you had a soft spot so I didn’t want to use what does patches so I have mash tape that is I guess 4 inches wide or 6 inches wide I’m not exactly sure so I Cook a piece of the tape mistake and put that over the whole I made it large enough to I thought there would not be a soft spot everything looks great but right in the middle where the mesh tape is covering right where the hole was the mud feel soft so that’s when I looked this up on TH-cam and I watched your videos so if I use the 20 minute mud do you think I would be fine The hole is it a little larger than 2 inchs it’s just a break with always the drywall is soft not real everything else looks great I send it in between coats and I send it again yesterday and everything looks great it’s just soft where is that hole is
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Thats odd because I use pro set 30 alot. I've tightly polished over joints that I have 1st and second coated with 30 min and have has zero issues on the finished product. I do for the most part do my final coat while doing patchwork with reg mud tho..
I searched “how to hot” the first thing that popped up was how to hotwire a car. Unbelievable.
Awesome shirt! Wish more people would realize that. Thanks for the tips!
Use that 20-minute mud with PVA glue in the water. 25% for structural and less for not. Works like charm and delays drying before curing.
few things hot mud swells, most primers make hot mud swell so use a good hotmud sealer, you definitely need 2 coats of good primer to stop flash through. Learned all this the hard way.
I removed a painted popcorn ceiling. It WASN’T easy but it CAN be done. Not sure how many coats it had on it. Was reg. ceiling paint.
Loved your video AND your shirt. Just the right message all the way around!
(Oh, and I've been tape 'n bedding for a long time, and I can attest to your recommendations. Final coat = regular mud.)
This is good info. I'm a painter who does the occasional taping or popcorn removal job. I've started using 210 on larger jobs rather than 90 just so I don't have to worry so much about a full bag setting up on me before I can use it up. I think I'll probably switch back because I can see the 210 drying out in spots before it sets.
I'd also add that I usually start filling screws with hot mud once it starts to harden but before it becomes unusable, drying before setting shouldn't be an issue there.
I can't thank you enough for this info. I've literally googled with at least 7 different queries asking for an answer to why my hot mud wasn't setting up in some areas (but not everywhere) after several hours with nothing but useless results.
This was especially perplexing because I would always test to see if it had set yet by lightly applying pressure to one of the lap marks to see if it was hard yet. If it was, I'd proceed with scraping down the high points with my knife, only to see my knife make an awful gouge into the mud that didn't set up, ruining the coat.
Turns out I just didn't know that hot mud shouldn't be used for thin floating. Since learning this from you, I pretty much only use hot mud for pre-filling, taping, and occasionally on the first coat after tape.
Hot mud also sets up way slower over painted surfaces. That has bit me many times.
I have to sand my life away. That’s the situation I’m in. I went a little too heavy and didn’t scrap off hard enough with knife. What sand grit do you recommend to help me out of this situation? Thank you
80 grit
Great tips. Thanks for saving me headaches in the future. 👍🏻
The only time I use mesh tape is over the sides of outside corners. I use alot of fiberglass tape thanks to you.
Oh man so interesting. I had to re-do some ceiling tape joints because of some light cracking and couldn't figure out why.....now I think I just figured it out. Never again, last coat with all- purpose. Thanks!
If those joints were done in mesh tape and regular all purpose that would also explain it.
I almost messed this project up, thanks to you all went well, thank you sir! I'm Subscribed.
Glad I could help!
Stop the music!!!!!!!!
Great video sir...all I buy is EZ sand 5 minutes to do patches because I get impatient waiting for it to dry..lol but for the most part I don't like using hot muds because I like to take my time 🙃
2 points to make, I had the same thoughts about EZ sand, but 1 thing I do to counter my concerns first of all when I use 45 or 90 and I want to speed up the setting time I use very warm water when mixing it works, for EZ sand 5 or 20 if I want to extend the setting time I use refrigerated cold water when I mix it, it allows you to not have to worry about hurrying, to do this allows you to take your time, sometimes I run out of the type I need, by using the different temperature water with the type that I have, I may not have to run back to the store right away.
Thank you for this video-Really helped me alot-“Welcome to all things Scottish! If it’s not Scottish, IT’S CRAP!!”😂
Great tips / refreshers. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Your advice has helped my DIY repairs produce better results.
Always greatly appreciate your videos and tips. Keep up the awesome work.
Glad you like them!
USG recommends you only use paper tape for any tape and bedding. They also recommend you score the factory butt joints with a blade for better adhesion, but who does that? Every single time I have to repair old patches (not mine), its because the previous patches used hot mud that is just falling off the walls and ceilings with some scraping.
I actually like to use my hot mud unmixed on my tray until I start tapping. So i put water first, then hot mud, stir a little bit and then start tapping. Ill have some dry stuff and wet stuff in my tray the whole time as I am applying. My time to mix a tray is less than two minutes, It cures faster, then I just scrape with a 90 degree angle any imperfections once it hardens up, but before it begins to dry.
I’m just doing DIY. I don’t understand if I have to do a flat light coat because is hard to sand(beginning of the video), how I’m gonna be able to do a tick coat to make it work? (What you said at the end of the video)
good tips, man i need to create a cheat sheet to consolidate all the info for drywalling , lots of potential "gotchas". I think I'll make a when to use/do what matrix.
Thanks for the info! I think I knew instinctively that ready mix mud was the wrong product for deep voids, but hated the dust, muss, and mixing of setting mud.
When my brother and I were looking at an old fixer-upper years ago (it was being “flipped”, I’m sure), the owner had a crew of day laborers patching large voids with buckets of All Purpose. I don’t know how many coats he’d applied, but the shrinkage cracks were huge. He was planning on hiding everything with paint
I'm a hot mud junky. I could go on all day long on the benefits and value in a wide variety of applications.
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When i worked professionally as a finisher I preferred 90min for all but the top coat and inside corners. I did not know about a thickness requirement.
Really good advice, thank you. I've worked with plaster and drywall since I was in my early 20s for my own remodel work and have used setting mud for my screws; no longer
I just used this for a stubborn crack with mesh. So far, I am pleased with it. I hope it works, because it's a 14 ft wall. TY
I used 90 for a patch 25x25 and 3 coats , will it show ? Lol
good video. the w estpac light weight hot mud can be skimcoated thinner than 1/8 but you can't work it too much otherwise it can lose its bond. I've also had a few tiny spots fail when floating some ceilings when it bubbles and you don't skim it tight immediately
Director, can I use 90 to apply some thickness? Is it solid? Can I mix colors with it or on top of it? I want a material close to Venetian plaster. What do you advise me? Thank you for everything you provide.
؟😊
This is especially true when you go over existing hot mud with a thin layer and you go to sand it. The top layer kind of peels off the bottom layer and you end up with voids. Terrible situation because now you have to sand it basically down or go over it with all purpose.
Whew, I’ve only really used hot mud to fill gaps, with mesh tape, and to build out bowed walls
This explains the few times I have had paint just fall off some repairs I have done over the years.
Hot mud ideal for initial applications but u gotta knock off the “snot “ prior to ur next coat. Repairs too.
Guy, I’ll give you a situation- I am painting a bedroom and will be repairing screw pops, minor scrapes, and small holes where screw anchors were. I have a small bag of Easy Sand 5, small tub of All Purpose Joint Compound (green), and a tub of Spackling Paste. Which one of those will give me best results?
It really depends on what you’re fixing exactly, and your skill level. Five minute can bite you in the butt if you’re not fast enough. It will literally set up in your pan before you get it on the wall if you’re over mix it or take too long to get the thickness right. Hot mud should only be used on fills deeper than 1/8 of an inch. Otherwise regular joint compound works on everything except deeper fills
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I used 20 minute mud the other day in a bathroom…I came back the next day and the mud was still soft? What went wrong?
It could be old, or defective.
Beautiful demonstration. Thanks.
I can't believe how hard durable and adhesive hot mud is.
Great video. U always use sheetrock 90 for first coat. My question is why do union guys hate hot mud and mesh tape so dam much?
Probably They’re taught to so they don’t know better
Sometimes 20 minute mud means you have about 2 minutes to get it mixed then 2-5 minutes before you're dealing with a slimy rock :p
I just shot a video about 15 secrets about Hot mud And I explain why that happens sometimes
I have a 8ft x 16" ceiling patch that needs about 1/4 fill before the finish coat (textured swirl) Do I need to use a primer-bonding agent or does the 45m hot mud already have that built in? Thx for your vids!
It’s built in when used over raw drywall
Proform brand is easier to so work with then Ez sand
If you have a huge dip or whatever in your drywall and all you have is All Purpose (Green Lid) if you instead of putting it on real deep in 1 coat, if you add smaller amounts in multiple coats will it still shrink and crack? LIke if you added that all purpose to that box mold you showed on the video but added all purpose in several coats would it still shrink and crack like that?
It’s less likely to but also much weaker in thick coats so fast setting is better
can you use hot mud to fill say large gaps between wall board in a ceiling of say where the corner cracked off when installing the board due to poor measurement?? If so how thick should you first application be??
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Maybe you can spray a thin coat with water to avoid drying faster than it sets. Or mix it wetter?
No that’s called re-tempering and they specifically tell you not to do that
greatest insight on hot mud
This is good information. Thank you sir.
very good information.
Thank you sir, this advice came at the perfect time. I have a ceiling I'm about ready for prime and paint in the morning. I did 2 coats of hot mud and one coat of all purpose. Have a couple small tweaks I would like to hit but was sitting here looking at a bag of 5 min hot mud, thinking if I skim it with that I will be good to go..then I saw this video. Now I'm thinking I will give it a light scrape, sand and prime ... then hit it with some dry dex to bring it to its final state. What do you think of this game plan?
It really depends on what it needs and I can’t tell you that from a text description. But I would definitely stay away from the hot mud as it’s not good for skim coating. You can learn a lot more in my new Drywall courses at www.DrywallAcademy.com
Thanks I will check out the course.
Its concaved. We see it.
0 shrinkage is a good thing
If I use mesh tape and use hot mud for the first coat should I use plus 3 to do the next coat?
And how many coats should I do?
I can’t answer that with a text and anybody that tries may mislead you. Watch more of my videos. I have over 200 so search for the playlist that would help you. Thanks
like 👍 all your videos ✌
Good video Guy, thanks. I know you like politics. What are your thoughts on todays SCOTUS abortion ruling?
NOT good.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY It kicks it down to the state level from what little I know. As opposed to a mandated 100% ban across the US. Thanks for your service!
Question for you sir. I was repairing a ceiling using 20min and I applied a very light or skim coat over the repair. For some reason the 20min took forever to dry.....are u saying it took longer to dry because it was a skim coat vs a heavier coat? Thanks!
What I said was that if you put hot mud on really thin, it dries before it cures. If it’s a 20 minute hot mud, it needs 20 minutes to cure and if it dries before that, it doesn’t cure right. Hot mud can take much longer to set up over painted surfaces and non-porous surfaces.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Bingo.....it was a painted surface sure enough. I dont need a thick coat of mud for my next repair so after listening to you I believe I should use 45min and give it a day to dry completely. I watch many of your vids....thanks for the knowledge.
Thank you Sir.
Five minutes mud is a waste it takes five minutes to mix
It’s only for pro’s. I can mix up a whole pan, spread it and clean it in that time but for most, use 45-90
thanks
Very informative! Good job! 👍👍
Thank you. Guy
Nice Video
oops
Are we united or divided today?
We seem to be heading toward divided
Great content as always. If i prime over hot mud will that help the paint stick to the wall better?
Always prime raw drywall
@That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement Hello, I just took down my popcorn texture in my garage. I also took down the tape as it was loose. So here is my plan. Screw any loose drywall boards, mesh tape, hot mud (2coats), plus 3, apply new texture(orange peel), prime then paint. Is that ok?? Is my order correct or is there something else I need to do?
@@SkyHawk2849That plan is perfect.
👍
Hot mud was good yesterday and today it’s not!
That's not what I said, maybe... watch the video....?
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I did. And I watched another on hot mud vs all purpose.
@@jr7003 ok. Well your comment doesn’t really make sense. All I said was this can fail if you use it wrong, not that it’s a bad product at all. Hope that clears it up.
Good to know. Im in the middle of redoing a bath remodel i did 10yrs ago. Walls look perfect. Ceiling not so much All the joints have hairline cracks and where i had to reposition a recessed light the paper tape in one spot just completely let go and fell in the floor. The entire room was done with new sheetrock. 1/2" on walls and 1/4" over dry scraped popcorn on ceiling. All joints were finished with paper tape and 45min mud. I fixed one ceiling crack about 2 months after 1st remodel by adding some more screws along the joint and scraping out the old paper tape and used mesh tape and 45min mud again. It too has recracked.
I think i can fix the moved recessed light with mesh tape instead of paper and hot mud but this time finish with and all purpose. But im not sure the best way to approach the hairline cracks at the seams. Do i need to cut away the paper tape and go with mesh or just mesh over the top? Thanks in advance. Great videos!
When use hot mud and meshed tape, do you completely hide the tape with first coat?
I seem to have trouble using meshed tape.
Yes
Great info as usual. Does this apply to where the mud gets thin around the edges where you're feathering a patch?
Is it ok if you're going over with a texture done in all purpose?
Also, could you add a link to the 15 hot mud tips video to the description? Thanks Guy, you rock!!!
The feathered edges are fine, and yes you can go over it with the regular mud. I haven’t released the 15 tips video yet. Thanks
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Then the manufacturer's recommendation is confusing to me. It doesn't get any thinner than a feathered edge.. ?
You answered my question I was trying to figure out if hot mud just needed to set or needed to thoroughly dry before putting another coat on it. I’m not really sure how thick it can be applied. I’m trying to get it a half inch thick.
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