Wow that was a good size tree! I'm sure the railroad appreciates the help and you get to run some saws. A win for all. Boy you give that McCullough the garlic!!! She's a worker.
To keep it from splitting on you - put a jive cut on the bottom side before you start on the top side. Even if your top and bottom cuts do not exactly line up a heavy round will break off at the bottom cut. That’s just how I do it.
This tree was very challenging, as it had that barber chair split on the bottom, and it varied in thickness from a couple of inches to over 8 inches. When I started cutting with a bottom cut, the bar would get pinched, so I decided to do top cuts only. You can see when I am near the bottom of the cuts, I use just short throttle bursts to do the final cut, and I would watch the tree to see which way it would roll., so I could get out of the way if needed. I am sure a pro could do a better job than me, but we had a safe and satisfying day. I appreciate your comments.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I don’t jump out of my shorts when a tree splits. I may run like hell with my saw in tow but I have had many trees split on me when I was cutting them down. Safety is an acceptable degree of risk and anytime I am cutting a tree down or up there is some degree of risk. I just try to mitigate it as much as possible.
Great job! Helping out when and where you can, is always the right thing to do! The world needs more people like you! Cool t shirt! Thanks for giving Andrew a plug! Somebody can get a pile of firewood out of that tree! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
That's a pretty good sized tree. It looks like elm to me with the furrowed bark and uniform color of sapwood and heartwood. Good job safely getting it off the tracks, sir! I agree about helping others. I've done cutting for our church, neighbors, etc and I always feel rewarded.
The tree split above the stump when it blew over, then turned 180 degrees when it fell, leaving the split on the bottom when it was lying across the track. I tried several cuts from the bottom to begin with, but the bar just kept getting pinched, so I ended up just doing top cuts.
Just found your channel and subscribed, excellent content! I like the old saws as well, growing up on a farm in the North heating with wood, we did a lot of wood cutting and most of it was done with an old Pioneer 650 and an old mid sized Homelite. Cut and bucked tons of wood and hauled it out of the bush with an old McCormick Deering W6 with chains. We had one newer saw that you had to constantly fiddle with, it was one of those little home owner Poulans. We just used that one for fencing because it was light and easy to pack around. I'm looking forward to going through your channel and checking out the rest of your videos.
Welcome. Thanks for the nice comment. All the equipment, tractors, chainsaws etc. are vintage stuff, so check out some of our older videos to see them in action. Thanks for watching.
I loved your comment, “The problem with negative comments based on your view is that you were not here doing the work and you were just guessing as to what I’m doing.” Absolutely PRICELESS!!! I look forward to your Tuesday videos more than any other. I attend a men’s Bible study group at our church every Tuesday evening and look forward to getting home and watching Mr Obsolete. Mowermedic1 refers to the know it all commenters as keyboard comandos. Keep safe!
Saw is running lean as hell, add some low jet and possibly high as well. Don't want to ruin that old classic saw. Sounds like a possible air leak. 051 in particular
I agree with Chris!! That thing is way out of adjustment. It falls on its face when you were hitting the throttle. That means it's lean on the low speed. I have had several of that era saws 031,041and 051 where really good saws!!
It was very cold out, and if I let the saw set for more than a few minutes, it would bog down till it warmed up again. When I was doing multiple cuts, I had no bog at all and idles fine., which means the jetting is fine.. The lousy gas is another culprit. This is the first time I had this saw out for some serious cutting, and I was happy with the performance.@@aldredske6197
@@aldredske6197 thanks AL wasnt trying to be a dick to him but I've worked on quite a few of those saws 051, 075 etc saws and just hate to see him ruin it over jetting issues. Vac pressure testing is the way to go on any saw eliminates any potential issues. I like his videos always like seeing classic saws in action
The only other big STIHL I have is also an 075 with a 60" roller nose bar. Check out one of my old video's Super Power Kindling Cutter chainsaw, to see it in action.
The barber chair ran almost the full length of the tree, and in some spots had compression, and in other spots tension, so when I went to do undercuts, the bar kept getting pinched, so I just went ahead and cut from the top down to the split. This worked best, and I just had to be aware of what the tree would do when the cut was just about done to keep from getting munched. That tree, with all the cleanup, turned out to be a 6 hour job, and you can see in the video, we had a productive and safe day.
If you watch carefully, when I am not putting some pressure on the saw to do a heavy cut, the saw will very lightly 4 stroke, which is what a properly tuned saw should l do.
The Pro Mac 610 and 650 saws have been excellent saws for me. The 650 was ported at the factory to have 30% more power than the 610, and it is a real hot rod !
The tree had a barber chair break all the way down the trunk, and I figured that if I cut it from the bottom I would pinch the bar. On some of the cuts that I didnt video, it actually happened, and I had to use a wedge to get the saw unstuck.
I do the same thing on my big Stihl thumpers. It makes them easier to start and they don’t kick back. I start them in half choke, high idle, pretty easy after that. I use a zoom bottle to squirt a little two cycle .down their throats. I don’t know which saw I would have used to cut that tree. Probably my ms 440 with a 25 inch bar. I don’t think I would have needed my 36 inch bar. The 440 will easily cut a four foot tree and that does not look like a four foot tree. The biggest tool I would need is a Peavy to move the big rounds off the track. Good look with that big tree.
Got one of those yellow saws on the way. It's the last model 3.4. Buddy of mine has one looks like new. I wish I could find a 610,or 650 in decent shape.
The last of the 600 Macs is the Timber Bear of 54cc. They still perform very well. The Pro Mac 610s are easy to find and generally not very expensive. The 650s are hard to find, as they didnt make them very long, and since they were real performers, a lot of them were used by firewood producers, and over time were used up.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Yeah it's still over three c.i. That's kind of my limit for a serious firewood saw. I still prefer to be a little closer to four though.
If you havent run a Mac 600 series saw before, you will find that size for size, they outperform most all other saws of the same era,, and you most likely wont want a bigger saw if you are cutting 20" wood or less. @@timothybyrom5560
I have cut up a few trees that size with a Homelite Super XL Auto with a 16 inch bar. Of course, if I had had a larger saw, I would have used it. But, you make do with what you have.
Nice Video, I have both these chainsaws, just picked up my first 610 the other day in excellent condition. One owner from new with log book, had not been started for many years, put fuel in it, coughed on the third and started on the fifth pull. So reliable, Will do a video on it soon. :)
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Might be time you gave your camera man/woman a bit of credit, a good and reliable ones are hard to find. And I'm coming around to find that saw you ditched in the bush I don't have one of those HaHa.
I wouldnt have a channel if it wasnt for Mrs. O. She does the camera work, editing, downloading etc. All I have to do is play with all my old equipment. That ol junk saw is one I found in a ditch when hiking a long time ago. It is the remains of an old ECHO. I drug it home and was going to scrap it before I decided to use it as a video prop !@@coma3550
Lots of nice firewood. When the end is in the air, that is prime firewood cutting. Hated to see those not cut to firewood length. You must not have been allowed to take them home. You referenced a SP125 to the 650 Mcculloch. Do you have one? Was that a Big leaf Maple? That would be my guess. Nice video!
Another volunteer asked for the firewood, and the reason we did not cut the tree to firewood lengths was that we were running out of time. We finished the last cuts and removal just before sunset. The tree turned out to be an elm tree .An SP 125 would be welcome here ! Thanks for the nice comment and watching.
You have some bad weather headed your way from what I see. I saw a PM 610, bow saw, yesterday that a friend picked up. I will try to trade it out of him. Since he owes me $200, I may be able to get it for cheap from him. I know well about pouring a little gas down the throats of my big Stihl saws, otherwise they like to take my arm off. I the start them from half choke. I do love my new little 026 Pro. It cuts pretty good and it is light - not those 20+# boat anchors that I normally use. When bucking big stuff off the ground I normally make a cut on the bottom with the top of the bar, first, then cut it from the top. This prevents splitting. How do you like that MacBrick? It looks like it will stay with my ms 440 or 372.
The weather has been poor for sure. Bow saws werent used much in the PNW, and I have only had one many years ago. They are a unique cutting experience. I tried cutting from the bottom of this big tree, but because of the barber chair and the weird tensions in it, I kept pinching the bar slightly, so I went with top cuts which got the job done. My McBrick 650 is a real performer as you can see, and has been super durable to boot. The Mac 610 and 650 saws are heavy for their size, but I find that for me it is an advantage, and these saws have been exceptionally durable, as well as superb performers.
It was. I put on a new old stock drum when repairing the saw initially, and it makes a ringing noise when the shoes start to release when the RPM drops off. If you tap on it, it rings like a bell. I think the clutch just needs to wear in a bit.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I would try to find a new sprocket for it. Anything that makes a ringing Boise is susceptible to fracture. Check the bearing.
I replaced the sprocket and the bearing when I did the clutch drum. I couldnt find new clutch shoes, so I used some good ones off the parts saw. I think they just need to wear in to match the drum.@@johnclarke6647
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 the clutch or sprocket could be out of round. Never owned an 051, but assume it is very similar to all my Stihl saws. Vibrations can destroy things and it sounds like a vibration problem.
I will have to check it out. The new parts I put in were new old stock Stihls parts. This was the first time I had run the saw cutting wood, so I will have to make adjustments etc. to get it 100%@@johnclarke6647
Loved this video! Great to give those saws something decent to chew on! But I have a question; are those middle blocks going to be sawn again, or is that about the length of wood that fits in your stoves there? I cut those into about 8-10” rings to suit the common stove size here in Ireland, and plus they are easier to manage on the job site, I wouldn’t be able to deal with those big 2’ logs myself.
We cut the wood to manageable lengths to get it off and away from the tracks. Another volunteer wanted the wood, so I didnt cut it into shorter lengths. and we ran out of time, as it was getting dark shortly after the finishing cuts. If I were doing firewood, I cut it to 20" lengths.. Thanks for watching.
The mix ratio varies by the type of work I am doing and the saw I am using. Check out a couple of videos I did on this subject fairly recently. As a general rule though, on small saws of 40cc or less I run 24-1, on midsize and bigger saws I run 32-1 for general cutting and 20-1 if doing hard work. I was running 24-1 in the big Stihl and Mac 650 cutting up the big tree on the train tracks. I use partial synthetic in all my saws. I will be trying ECHO RED ARMOR oil soon, as the oil I have been using is no longer available.
That’s not a barber chair. A barber chair is when you cut it and it splits during the falling process and leaves a slab on the stump, like a chair with a chair back. It can occur in a severe leaning tree, which is why you bore cut the center out before you release it. If it does not have a center it cannot split.
I didnt cut the tree down, as it broke out at the bottom from severe wind, then spun around 180 degree's when it landed on the tracks, thus the split was on the bottom side of the tree. I would have taken a picture of the stump, but the river next to it was in flood stage, and the bank was very steep. Too dangerous for me to go down to it to take a picture. Looked like a barber chair split to me, but I am no expert.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I understand it fell down, but I always cut the bottom, first, if I can, so the round will drop after I make the top cut.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 that the way I do it - compression side, first, and then tension side, last. I cut about a 1/4 on the bottom and then the top. When the bar starts to get pinched in the bottom I cut the top. Wedges are usually required on big logs to keep the top kerf open. I like to have an assistant pounding in the top wedges as I cut. Don’t always have one and I have to do it, myself. Happy St. Paddy’s Day. I am a Scot but have some Irish DNA they say, mostly from Ulster. My ancestors were from Edinburgh.
It isnt cottonwood, but I think it might be a walnut tree. Cottonwood have a smooth light colored bark and no real color to the wood inside for the most part.
I figured that after you sniped the log the first and second time you would have realized that you should have been putting a undercut in every one of your cuts instead of letting it rip off. I always love watching your videos but this one was really hard for me to watch. I bet that might have been the biggest tree you ever cut. Right??? Take care my friend!!😀😀👍❤ Logger Al
I did some undercuts at first, but every time I did, the bar got pinched, as the split on the bottom of the tree had a lot of tension on it. I had to use a wedge to get it unstuck. We did a lot more cutting than in the video, so a full representation of what we were doing, otherwise we would have had a super long video. If the saw was running that lean it would have failed on me, and I went out and ran the saw again today, and the jets were right on the money.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I watched you do a few undercuts and you were going way too far and that's why you were getting pinched. You only undercut approximately 25 percent. I saw you undercutting 75 percent and that's why you needed a wedge to get out. You need a understanding of tension wood and compression wood. Also the saw won't blow up nearly as fast with just the low speed too lean. The high speed wasn't set to bad. But it was getting hot enough to burn the paint off as much as it was as fast as it was. It was plenty lean. You can't set any carb jets to what the factory calls for. Every saw is a little different. Adjusted to factory spec is never right. It's just a good place to start. If it was mine I would have never let it run like it was. But it's not mine. Even your mac needs a little tweaking.
The largest tree I have ever cut was 4 feet. If things work out, a buddy of mine has a 4 footer that tipped over, and I will cut it up with my Stihl 075 with a 60" bar in the near future.
That is a good tip on the undercut. Every part of this tree was different as to how much tension was on the barber chair, so I decided to do the cuts from the top. I adjust my high speed jet by running the saw up to max speed, adjust the needle to get the fastest speed, then open the jet about a 1/16 of a turn richer. Idle screw is set to where I get a nice smooth transition from idle to high speed. The Mac has a built in governor, and for some cuts I wasnt working it that hard, and the uneven running is the result. For such maligned saws as the 610 and 650s really do the job for me. @@aldredske6197
@@aldredske6197 This tree was a challenge because of the barber chair split, and threw me a bunch of curves. Every cut was different. Being that I am no pro, it could have been done better, but everything went well, and we had a safe and rewarding day. As for the jetting on the saws, on the 051 I checked the jetting the next day and also the plug color, jetting was correct, plug was nice and tan The Mac has a built in governor in the carb, and if I am not doing a hard cut it 4 strokes a bit, thus the uneven sound at times. If the 051 was real lean, it would have failed on me, as I cut with it for 5 hours that day The muffler smoked because it was a cheapo Chinese replica part I paid $12 for. Cheap part, cheap paint. One thing that is interesting is that the sound on the video doesnt sound like the saw when actually running it. I have noticed this on other engine videos. If you watch a video with a hit & miss engine running, it doesnt sound anywhere near to the actual sound. The microphones just cant pick up certain sounds.. As for my mechanical skills, I am a pro, have ASE master mechanic certification and if it runs on gasoline, I have probably successfully fixed it.
I am not sure as to what you are saying about an air leak, unless you are talking about the cold start. As for cutting when warm the saw ran great all day, starts on one pull when warm, idles properly, runs clean on the top end. Both my big Stihls are hard to start when cold, because of the high compression, and the compression releases are missing. and the very cold weather.
Wow that was a good size tree! I'm sure the railroad appreciates the help and you get to run some saws. A win for all. Boy you give that McCullough the garlic!!! She's a worker.
To keep it from splitting on you - put a jive cut on the bottom side before you start on the top side. Even if your top and bottom cuts do not exactly line up a heavy round will break off at the bottom cut. That’s just how I do it.
This tree was very challenging, as it had that barber chair split on the bottom, and it varied in thickness from a couple of inches to over 8 inches. When I started cutting with a bottom cut, the bar would get pinched, so I decided to do top cuts only. You can see when I am near the bottom of the cuts, I use just short throttle bursts to do the final cut, and I would watch the tree to see which way it would roll., so I could get out of the way if needed. I am sure a pro could do a better job than me, but we had a safe and satisfying day. I appreciate your comments.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I don’t jump out of my shorts when a tree splits. I may run like hell with my saw in tow but I have had many trees split on me when I was cutting them down. Safety is an acceptable degree of risk and anytime I am cutting a tree down or up there is some degree of risk. I just try to mitigate it as much as possible.
same here@@johnclarke6647
That's how most people do it. This guy says he's a 'master mechanic' but his saws are junk and he can't use them. PMSL...
@@skipmole612 he works on so many different makes and models i would bet he has forgotten more about saws than you have ever known.
You are a Good Man Sir. I am glad i found your channel.
Thanks and welcome
Great video man!! The ol mcculloch sure cuts good! Good pile of firewood there 2!!
The Pro Mac 650s are real performers. That was a fun but challenging day.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 definitely alot of work there man!! Im Sure they really appreciate it tho!!!
we like to help out when we can, and they can concentrate on running the railroad--works out great@@ButlerOutdoorsCanada
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 you're a good man sir!!!
Great job! Helping out when and where you can, is always the right thing to do! The world needs more people like you! Cool t shirt! Thanks for giving Andrew a plug! Somebody can get a pile of firewood out of that tree! 👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thank you.
That's a pretty good sized tree. It looks like elm to me with the furrowed bark and uniform color of sapwood and heartwood. Good job safely getting it off the tracks, sir!
I agree about helping others. I've done cutting for our church, neighbors, etc and I always feel rewarded.
I am unsure as to the kind of tree it is, but have some leaves that I am trying to identify it with. Thanks for watching.
I did some research, and it is an elm.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Thanks for letting me know, Mr. O!
hi there those old saw are the best i still use a 041 got back in 82 . nice work john
Too many experts!! good job and great video! thanks both, take care out there, regards Alan.
That job was challenging, but all went well and we had a safe and rewarding day.
that 51 sounds smooth as hell in the wood! Love my vintage saws as well buddy. Keep up the good deeds!
Thanks, will do!
Really good video, great job with the tree clean up and that old Stihl is a beautiful saw. Hope you have a great day 👍
It was a lot of work, but was a very rewarding day.
Always cut the bottom side of a supported log, first, and then cut the top. That will keep it from splitting.
The tree split above the stump when it blew over, then turned 180 degrees when it fell, leaving the split on the bottom when it was lying across the track. I tried several cuts from the bottom to begin with, but the bar just kept getting pinched, so I ended up just doing top cuts.
Love the ol classics. I've got a 041 Ave I'm in the process of fixing
Just found your channel and subscribed, excellent content! I like the old saws as well, growing up on a farm in the North heating with wood, we did a lot of wood cutting and most of it was done with an old Pioneer 650 and an old mid sized Homelite. Cut and bucked tons of wood and hauled it out of the bush with an old McCormick Deering W6 with chains. We had one newer saw that you had to constantly fiddle with, it was one of those little home owner Poulans. We just used that one for fencing because it was light and easy to pack around.
I'm looking forward to going through your channel and checking out the rest of your videos.
Welcome. Thanks for the nice comment. All the equipment, tractors, chainsaws etc. are vintage stuff, so check out some of our older videos to see them in action. Thanks for watching.
I loved your comment, “The problem with negative comments based on your view is that you were not here doing the work and you were just guessing as to what I’m doing.” Absolutely PRICELESS!!! I look forward to your Tuesday videos more than any other. I attend a men’s Bible study group at our church every Tuesday evening and look forward to getting home and watching Mr Obsolete. Mowermedic1 refers to the know it all commenters as keyboard comandos. Keep safe!
Thank you as always for your nice comments
Bug goggles...I'd never heard of them before! Great idea...thanks for the tip.
The bug goggles are a real help as they cant fog up and keep any sweat away from your eyes.
Saw is running lean as hell, add some low jet and possibly high as well. Don't want to ruin that old classic saw. Sounds like a possible air leak. 051 in particular
I tuned the saw the day before the cutting, and the jets are spot on.
I agree with Chris!! That thing is way out of adjustment. It falls on its face when you were hitting the throttle. That means it's lean on the low speed.
I have had several of that era saws 031,041and 051 where really good saws!!
It was very cold out, and if I let the saw set for more than a few minutes, it would bog down till it warmed up again. When I was doing multiple cuts, I had no bog at all and idles fine., which means the jetting is fine.. The lousy gas is another culprit. This is the first time I had this saw out for some serious cutting, and I was happy with the performance.@@aldredske6197
@@aldredske6197 thanks AL wasnt trying to be a dick to him but I've worked on quite a few of those saws 051, 075 etc saws and just hate to see him ruin it over jetting issues. Vac pressure testing is the way to go on any saw eliminates any potential issues. I like his videos always like seeing classic saws in action
Nice job I just love your collection of saws good man you do more by accident then most do at work in forty hour week
That saw is very similar to my 075 111cc. I have a 36in Oregon roller nose with .404 skip. Love hearn em howl!!!
The only other big STIHL I have is also an 075 with a 60" roller nose bar. Check out one of my old video's Super Power Kindling Cutter chainsaw, to see it in action.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 will do sir thank u
Love the McColloch 650,undercut the log by 1/4 to start,and it will snap clean,no Barbara chair,you will have better luck
The barber chair ran almost the full length of the tree, and in some spots had compression, and in other spots tension, so when I went to do undercuts, the bar kept getting pinched, so I just went ahead and cut from the top down to the split. This worked best, and I just had to be aware of what the tree would do when the cut was just about done to keep from getting munched. That tree, with all the cleanup, turned out to be a 6 hour job, and you can see in the video, we had a productive and safe day.
I love them old creamsicle saws.
That’s what I like to hear - a saw that maintains a constant rpm in a cut. That’s when you know they are properly tuned.
If you watch carefully, when I am not putting some pressure on the saw to do a heavy cut, the saw will very lightly 4 stroke, which is what a properly tuned saw should l do.
nice old saws well done
thanks for the nice comment and for watching
Thanks for video and happy Thanksgiving
Thanks for watching
That 650 sure is a ripper! Sounds mean!
The Pro Mac 610 and 650 saws have been excellent saws for me. The 650 was ported at the factory to have 30% more power than the 610, and it is a real hot rod !
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156
Great info did not know.
You know if you give a good undercut they won't peel out on you like that
The tree had a barber chair break all the way down the trunk, and I figured that if I cut it from the bottom I would pinch the bar. On some of the cuts that I didnt video, it actually happened, and I had to use a wedge to get the saw unstuck.
That’s a big ‘un! Gives you a reason to get the big dog out. Can’t wait for a battery powered saw review 🤣 j/k
As for a battery powered chainsaw review, it might be 10 or 20 years before that might happen HA HA
I do the same thing on my big Stihl thumpers. It makes them easier to start and they don’t kick back. I start them in half choke, high idle, pretty easy after that. I use a zoom bottle to squirt a little two cycle .down their throats. I don’t know which saw I would have used to cut that tree. Probably my ms 440 with a 25 inch bar. I don’t think I would have needed my 36 inch bar. The 440 will easily cut a four foot tree and that does not look like a four foot tree. The biggest tool I would need is a Peavy to move the big rounds off the track. Good look with that big tree.
Priming the big Stihl makes them easy to start for sure. This tree at the widest point was 34 inches, so the 36" bar worked out well
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 my 440 would have cut it. It has cut bigger than that.
nice job, well done, classic chainsaws running, greetings and blessings from germany
Thanks so much for the nice comment and watching.
Love my Power Macs!!!
Nice job Sir!
Thank you !
Drink a shot when he says barber 💈 chair
Got one of those yellow saws on the way. It's the last model 3.4. Buddy of mine has one looks like new. I wish I could find a 610,or 650 in decent shape.
The last of the 600 Macs is the Timber Bear of 54cc. They still perform very well. The Pro Mac 610s are easy to find and generally not very expensive. The 650s are hard to find, as they didnt make them very long, and since they were real performers, a lot of them were used by firewood producers, and over time were used up.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Yeah it's still over three c.i. That's kind of my limit for a serious firewood saw. I still prefer to be a little closer to four though.
If you havent run a Mac 600 series saw before, you will find that size for size, they outperform most all other saws of the same era,, and you most likely wont want a bigger saw if you are cutting 20" wood or less. @@timothybyrom5560
I knew the big ol Stihl was coming out!
I have cut up a few trees that size with a Homelite Super XL Auto with a 16 inch bar. Of course, if I had had a larger saw, I would have used it. But, you make do with what you have.
I always say (Use What You Have). This has worked for me for a long time !
Nice Video, I have both these chainsaws, just picked up my first 610 the other day in excellent condition. One owner from new with log book, had not been started for many years, put fuel in it, coughed on the third and started on the fifth pull. So reliable, Will do a video on it soon. :)
Nice find.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 Might be time you gave your camera man/woman a bit of credit, a good and reliable ones are hard to find. And I'm coming around to find that saw you ditched in the bush I don't have one of those HaHa.
I wouldnt have a channel if it wasnt for Mrs. O. She does the camera work, editing, downloading etc. All I have to do is play with all my old equipment. That ol junk saw is one I found in a ditch when hiking a long time ago. It is the remains of an old ECHO. I drug it home and was going to scrap it before I decided to use it as a video prop !@@coma3550
Sweet !!!!!👍👍
Lots of nice firewood. When the end is in the air, that is prime firewood cutting. Hated to see those not cut to firewood length. You must not have been allowed to take them home. You referenced a SP125 to the 650 Mcculloch. Do you have one? Was that a Big leaf Maple? That would be my guess. Nice video!
Another volunteer asked for the firewood, and the reason we did not cut the tree to firewood lengths was that we were running out of time. We finished the last cuts and removal just before sunset. The tree turned out to be an elm tree .An SP 125 would be welcome here ! Thanks for the nice comment and watching.
Great job cutting the tree they wanted.don't listen to the key board snipers .your a great help to your community .great video
Thank you for the kind comment.
You have some bad weather headed your way from what I see. I saw a PM 610, bow saw, yesterday that a friend picked up. I will try to trade it out of him. Since he owes me $200, I may be able to get it for cheap from him. I know well about pouring a little gas down the throats of my big Stihl saws, otherwise they like to take my arm off. I the start them from half choke. I do love my new little 026 Pro. It cuts pretty good and it is light - not those 20+# boat anchors that I normally use. When bucking big stuff off the ground I normally make a cut on the bottom with the top of the bar, first, then cut it from the top. This prevents splitting. How do you like that MacBrick? It looks like it will stay with my ms 440 or 372.
The weather has been poor for sure. Bow saws werent used much in the PNW, and I have only had one many years ago. They are a unique cutting experience. I tried cutting from the bottom of this big tree, but because of the barber chair and the weird tensions in it, I kept pinching the bar slightly, so I went with top cuts which got the job done. My McBrick 650 is a real performer as you can see, and has been super durable to boot. The Mac 610 and 650 saws are heavy for their size, but I find that for me it is an advantage, and these saws have been exceptionally durable, as well as superb performers.
God bless you
Thank you.
Nice job and well done ! Pay no attention to the negative folks , they weren't there doing the work.
You got that right. We try to be safe when working and since we all have all our limbs we were successful. Thanks for watching
Enjoyed the video. Thank you.
How does that 051 stack up compared to a Mac of comparable size?
The Macs are more powerful, but not by a lot.
The clutch on the 051 was making a little noise, it seemed to me.
It was. I put on a new old stock drum when repairing the saw initially, and it makes a ringing noise when the shoes start to release when the RPM drops off. If you tap on it, it rings like a bell. I think the clutch just needs to wear in a bit.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I would try to find a new sprocket for it. Anything that makes a ringing Boise is susceptible to fracture. Check the bearing.
I replaced the sprocket and the bearing when I did the clutch drum. I couldnt find new clutch shoes, so I used some good ones off the parts saw. I think they just need to wear in to match the drum.@@johnclarke6647
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 the clutch or sprocket could be out of round. Never owned an 051, but assume it is very similar to all my Stihl saws. Vibrations can destroy things and it sounds like a vibration problem.
I will have to check it out. The new parts I put in were new old stock Stihls parts. This was the first time I had run the saw cutting wood, so I will have to make adjustments etc. to get it 100%@@johnclarke6647
Loved this video! Great to give those saws something decent to chew on! But I have a question; are those middle blocks going to be sawn again, or is that about the length of wood that fits in your stoves there? I cut those into about 8-10” rings to suit the common stove size here in Ireland, and plus they are easier to manage on the job site, I wouldn’t be able to deal with those big 2’ logs myself.
Yea same here in Wales, most grates are best with 10 inch logs, but you know those guys across the pond favour 16 inch logs.
We cut the wood to manageable lengths to get it off and away from the tracks. Another volunteer wanted the wood, so I didnt cut it into shorter lengths. and we ran out of time, as it was getting dark shortly after the finishing cuts. If I were doing firewood, I cut it to 20" lengths.. Thanks for watching.
Did u get to keep the wood? Great job, love ur channel.
Someone at the railroad had asked for it, so I just left it for them. If they dont pick it up, I will go back an get it. Thanks for the nice comment.
What fuel mix are you running in your old saws? I have just started watching your videos. Nice saws!
The mix ratio varies by the type of work I am doing and the saw I am using. Check out a couple of videos I did on this subject fairly recently. As a general rule though, on small saws of 40cc or less I run 24-1, on midsize and bigger saws I run 32-1 for general cutting and 20-1 if doing hard work. I was running 24-1 in the big Stihl and Mac 650 cutting up the big tree on the train tracks. I use partial synthetic in all my saws. I will be trying ECHO RED ARMOR oil soon, as the oil I have been using is no longer available.
That’s not a barber chair. A barber chair is when you cut it and it splits during the falling process and leaves a slab on the stump, like a chair with a chair back. It can occur in a severe leaning tree, which is why you bore cut the center out before you release it. If it does not have a center it cannot split.
I didnt cut the tree down, as it broke out at the bottom from severe wind, then spun around 180 degree's when it landed on the tracks, thus the split was on the bottom side of the tree. I would have taken a picture of the stump, but the river next to it was in flood stage, and the bank was very steep. Too dangerous for me to go down to it to take a picture. Looked like a barber chair split to me, but I am no expert.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I understand it fell down, but I always cut the bottom, first, if I can, so the round will drop after I make the top cut.
That would be the best way to do the job under normal circumstances@@johnclarke6647
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 that the way I do it - compression side, first, and then tension side, last. I cut about a 1/4 on the bottom and then the top. When the bar starts to get pinched in the bottom I cut the top. Wedges are usually required on big logs to keep the top kerf open. I like to have an assistant pounding in the top wedges as I cut. Don’t always have one and I have to do it, myself. Happy St. Paddy’s Day. I am a Scot but have some Irish DNA they say, mostly from Ulster. My ancestors were from Edinburgh.
I always appreciate your tip's , and happy St. Pat's day to you.@@johnclarke6647
What kind of tree, white wood almost looked like cottonwood?
It isnt cottonwood, but I think it might be a walnut tree. Cottonwood have a smooth light colored bark and no real color to the wood inside for the most part.
found out it is an elm tree
I figured that after you sniped the log the first and second time you would have realized that you should have been putting a undercut in every one of your cuts instead of letting it rip off.
I always love watching your videos but this one was really hard for me to watch. I bet that might have been the biggest tree you ever cut. Right???
Take care my friend!!😀😀👍❤
Logger Al
I did some undercuts at first, but every time I did, the bar got pinched, as the split on the bottom of the tree had a lot of tension on it. I had to use a wedge to get it unstuck. We did a lot more cutting than in the video, so a full representation of what we were doing, otherwise we would have had a super long video. If the saw was running that lean it would have failed on me, and I went out and ran the saw again today, and the jets were right on the money.
@@mrobsoletesvintagehomestea9156 I watched you do a few undercuts and you were going way too far and that's why you were getting pinched. You only undercut approximately 25 percent. I saw you undercutting 75 percent and that's why you needed a wedge to get out. You need a understanding of tension wood and compression wood.
Also the saw won't blow up nearly as fast with just the low speed too lean. The high speed wasn't set to bad. But it was getting hot enough to burn the paint off as much as it was as fast as it was. It was plenty lean. You can't set any carb jets to what the factory calls for. Every saw is a little different. Adjusted to factory spec is never right. It's just a good place to start.
If it was mine I would have never let it run like it was. But it's not mine. Even your mac needs a little tweaking.
The largest tree I have ever cut was 4 feet. If things work out, a buddy of mine has a 4 footer that tipped over, and I will cut it up with my Stihl 075 with a 60" bar in the near future.
That is a good tip on the undercut. Every part of this tree was different as to how much tension was on the barber chair, so I decided to do the cuts from the top. I adjust my high speed jet by running the saw up to max speed, adjust the needle to get the fastest speed, then open the jet about a 1/16 of a turn richer. Idle screw is set to where I get a nice smooth transition from idle to high speed. The Mac has a built in governor, and for some cuts I wasnt working it that hard, and the uneven running is the result. For such maligned saws as the 610 and 650s really do the job for me. @@aldredske6197
@@aldredske6197 This tree was a challenge because of the barber chair split, and threw me a bunch of curves. Every cut was different. Being that I am no pro, it could have been done better, but everything went well, and we had a safe and rewarding day. As for the jetting on the saws, on the 051 I checked the jetting the next day and also the plug color, jetting was correct, plug was nice and tan The Mac has a built in governor in the carb, and if I am not doing a hard cut it 4 strokes a bit, thus the uneven sound at times. If the 051 was real lean, it would have failed on me, as I cut with it for 5 hours that day The muffler smoked because it was a cheapo Chinese replica part I paid $12 for. Cheap part, cheap paint. One thing that is interesting is that the sound on the video doesnt sound like the saw when actually running it. I have noticed this on other engine videos. If you watch a video with a hit & miss engine running, it doesnt sound anywhere near to the actual sound. The microphones just cant pick up certain sounds.. As for my mechanical skills, I am a pro, have ASE master mechanic certification and if it runs on gasoline, I have probably successfully fixed it.
Sound like an air leak to me on that 051.
I am not sure as to what you are saying about an air leak, unless you are talking about the cold start. As for cutting when warm the saw ran great all day, starts on one pull when warm, idles properly, runs clean on the top end. Both my big Stihls are hard to start when cold, because of the high compression, and the compression releases are missing. and the very cold weather.
I wasn't trying to be nasty with what i said i really like your videos i truly do. No disrespect meant.
Thanks for clarifying@@Chris-ry5vu
What is that a big ol Cottonwood?
It isnt a cottonwood, but I think it might be a walnut.
A portable sawmill would have made some nice lumber from that tree.
I hate splintered trees. They are always a mess to cut through the splinter.
This tree was a challenge for sure.