I have an old (about 1930's) South Bend I bought about 40 years ago. I rebuilt it and rebeded it and added quick change I got some machinist books and learned the basics and I was in the USAF and the machine shop and welding guys would teach me things and let me use the shop machines to make special tools for the F-16 we had. I later called the local community college and spoke to the shop teachers and asked if I could enroll to get some more education and they told me that I would be wasting my time (after seeing photos of my old lathe) because they taught the CNC equipment. I love watching you work and I have used my lathe many times to make parts (NLA) for classic cars and trucks and consider my lathe work as therapy. There is a lot of satisfaction making something that the current parts industry says is "unattainable" and putting an old car back on the road with a freshly made distributor shaft or such. Thanks for your videos!
I have a confession to make, I was a 2nd year Apprentice when my rotation into the Machine Shop, Lathes , Milling , Cylindrical and Surface Grinders, Bolt Nut and Screw production and Glass Mould Servicing, were the main duties , I was handed this shaft to make a new one , so I made an exact replica, I had spent three entire hours , measuring the differing Diameters , taper lengths , chamfer shapes , I even asked the shop Foreman what tolerances I could work within, 0.005 thousandths of an inch . I ensured all measurements were taken of the initial piece was at 22* Celsius and that I only touched the insulation on the Micrometer’s and Vernier Callipers. I made the shaft and I was as proud as punch, Happy as Larry , My first ever Foreign Order , it has taken another three hours to machine it up, I took it to the Shop Foreman , Who burst out laughing, and the entire shop joined in even the labourers, all of those differing diameters and tapers were actually bearing wear marks , I was supposed to hand the Foreman a Length of untouched 3/4 inch bar, After the laughing died off the foreman opened a drawer and pulled out the previous apprentice's attempts, In the end I was given 99% mark for duplication, less the 1% for not asking for a Finished Product Sketch, before starting a " Job Card ". Lesson Learned.
I actually asked the customer if I had to duplicate the original. I thought the wear was on the other end where the bearing was and the worn end was a feature. Lol. Glad I clarified it.
@@TopperMachineLLC Had you not actually said it I'd have spent a fair chunk of the video trying to decide if that could actually all be wear or not. That's a heck of a worn part.
@@toddhazell925 I thought so too! When it was a finished piece of 1 1/2 SS round bar stock, I felt like a fool! I looked around and made sure no one was looking!🤣🤣🤣🤣 Then again, I’m not a machinist!
Stripped out a worn shaft like that from a conveyor one day shift. Left the shaft on the bench with a note for night shift "Make a new one of these please" came back the next morning to a brand new shaft with the exact same "tapered end" machined in !
There's an old joke in the computer programming field. Programmer calls in a customer to demonstrate a program he asked for. After working with it a while the customer says, "Oh, no, this won't do at all." Programmer says, "What? I made it exactly to your specs." Customer, "Yes. Yes, it's just what I asked for, but not at all what I need."
Had the same thing in Dubai with a broken BMW motorcycle drive shaft had an Indian operated machine shop make me a new shaft "Same same" complete with the break in the middle!
Just happened to pop up on my video feed and I’m glad I watched it! I’m a subscriber now! I have never worked on a lathe or did any kind of machining but I would love to learn someday. It amazes me how this stuff works….and how much money you can save by making something instead of buying something. Great video! Thanks for sharing.
The anchor lube product placement reminds me of Wayne’s world when Garth was wearing the full Reebok outfit and saying it’s really a shame when people sellout 😂
No joke, even for big companies, the turnaround is more important usually. I know we have paid local shops good money because they could get it back to us that evening. $2700 is nothing when the machine is losing $xxx,xxx for every shift it's down.
I have a friend who has a 25 year old Dixon ZTR mower and I was fixing leaky hydro gearboxes when I discovered that one of the axle shafts had been eaten away by a loose inner bearing. Obsolete part - naturally. Local machine shop was able to weld it up and turn it to size. I re-assembled it with some red Loctite to try and keep it from happening again. So far, so good. 👍
Your content is fascinating since it is amazing that the steel just seems to melt onto your hands like putty. Also, it’s very calming to see somebody actually creating product. Keep up the great work.
The luxury of a shop to work in instead of up on a roof, rebuilding blower motors, and changing bearings i’m serving a process cause me to remember the good old days
It always mesmerizing to watch a manual machinist who knows what he's doing. All your cuts are so good. Nice not to hear all the CNCs running at max all day. That screech......
Tig welding is one of those things that you must do every day or two I think to be good at it. I tig about 5-6 times a year and find a few mins of practice on some scrap is helpful. Just to get the motion down and the memory working again. Nice Job Josh, Your typical job shop repair right there. I need this can you help me out.
After 5 years of daily welding I have the muscle memory. I’m a decent tig welder. I do a lot of fabrication now so I weld a lot less. But when I need it it’s there.
I mostly do electronics test equipment but have done welding in n my day. I have had just enough experience to know that the weld you made made look so easy when you consider weld current, feed material and just 'the touch' to get it right. Maybe a professional welder could have made it look more beautiful but in my days, all 73 years of them, I have seen way more welds worse than yours and few better.
It's always nice when someone can save another shop a few dollars like you did there I'm sure you will get repeat business from them ! Great job ! Very professional looking ! 👍👍
My thought would put a key in the drive wheel so that down the road they could just have another shaft made and pressed back in and not have to weld it back together.
Thanks, Josh. I think you just made yourself a new long-term customer. Funny how "gettin' it done right the first time" seems to make that happen... See you in the next one. Be well.
If you use pillow blocks with the set screws to lock them onto the shaft, they’ll walk on the shaft causing that wear. The best way to avoid that is to use pillow blocks with taper collars on them that actually squeeze the shaft.
Yep, I think more people are getting into machining and also realize the value of old machines, because we can fix them. Very good to see you helping out where you can. Great job and thanks for the advice on machining stainless!
Crazy that no one out in your neck of the woods could do that! Good business to have in WI. I know both industrial places I have worked the last 20 years absolutely love small guys like you who can keep us from overpaying AND having equipment down for way too long.
TIG welding is something I have never done. Back in my 20's. I used to do a lot of rust repairs on cars with oxy welding and I also did a lot of stick welding on other things. I only started MIG welding around 30 years ago and these days I mostly do MIG welding on my own projects.
I enjoy watching your video keep up the good work it's really entertaining and fascinating to watch people do jobs like that and other stuff and equipment
Brings back memories of when we still had a lathe at work and I could actually do something instead of shipping everything out to a shop like this! And had they tightened the set screws in the bearings it wouldn't have spun down like that, not to mention that was months of spinning in the bearing unobserved
Great job. A little trick I use when I weld rubber tires on trailer axles, I take an old towel and roll ice cubes in it then wrap that around around the tire. It's not perfect, but I don't have to be as careful to melt the rubber. Just gotta be a little quick because the ice will melt and drip down the side of the tire, But it's just the nature of the beast.
Depending on the assembly I use wet rags. But this one with the TIG welding I knew the heat was minimal and localized. Not much fear of harming the wheel. The shaft never really got hot on the short end. That's the cool part about TIG, very localized.
Lovely to see at least one of you guys not afraid to use cutting lubricants. One of my pet hates one most you tube engineering videos is the neglect of lubricants when either cutting or assembling components. Well done that man
Coolants and oils are not always necessary. Drilling and tapping, yes. Turning and milking with carbide, it really depends on your tooling. Most carbide will cut dry just as good and last just as long, as it would with using coolant. Dealing with the mess of coolant is the biggest reason not to use it. When I started out, I thought coolant was a requirement. I learned from some amazing people it was not.
@@Zzrdemon6633 Nonsense. Carbide is just fine using brushed on oil or spray mist. What does not work is confusing coolant with lube, like why would you tap with coolant?
Great job Josh! I know you don't have much time... but it would be nice if a customer here and there would let you go see your work after they have re-installed it and gotten back up and running. Also saw The Apprentice working hard in the background. I think at one point he was on the Lion lathe. Its nice that he has gotten to the point where he can work on his own for some things, without constant oversight.
Some of it is my time to go film, often it is more about privacy of the customer. I have seen most applications of my work, but they don't want their processes filmed. Or rather the potential glimpse of it. Conner is doing great. He has a lot of jobs he will be doing coming up. He really enjoys welding and his skills are improving greatly.
I'm a retired Software Engineer. I have NO idea why I watched this. I know nothing about machining and have NO desire to learn. I thought it was interesting. Good job!!!!
On old auto rebuilt generators the end of the armature wore they cut the end down welded a sleeve on the end if course they werre doing multiple items same problem .
@@TopperMachineLLCYeah, you don't just waive the material cost anymore even if the job is for a repeat customer. I hear stories of what farmers pay for machine parts. Yikes! A simple tractor costs like half a million now.
I worked in a shipyard abed lots of the stuff that we worked on was old and worn out some of the machines were were over 100 years old...Lots of reciprocating steam...there were NO Prints...lots of the threads were one of a kind not to any standard... The guys in my shop were amazing at figuring out how something would have worked if it did and re engineering new parts to fit and work in the old machine....That experience served me well later a a watchmaker and clockmaker...No plans or drawings and no spare part available....And often screwed up by past attempts to fix it.... The really old stuff there was not even standard classification for the steel and brass or bronze...One of my old text books had you the student making your own regulator with a one second pendulum...With a temperature compensating pendulum....It started out with you casting the plates yourself....And began with get some red brass of good quality...
Unless I miss my guess that is the drive wheel from one of the smaller 1980s Advance Cleaning Machine Corporation's floor scrubbers. I have done that same job but I also had to strap the wheel to a lathe faceplate and bore it for a larger bearing.
That looks a lot like a drive wheel from a floor scrubber. I worked on those for a living for a few years. Specifically a NSS brand drive wheel. Welding the wheel to the axle is different than what I am used to. Usually they are just keyed on the shaft.
I work with Swiss CNC lathes and I've always wondered if there are useful skills I could gain from running manual lathes. That answer is a resounding yes
I was always taught to cut keyways in one pass with a slot drill using slow feed to get a perfect size. P.S. I’m not saying I’m correct but it’s what I was taught.
The slot drill will deflect, putting your keyways off centerline. I used to do it that way back when I used HSS tooling with coolant. Now I have a good DRO on the mill, so I use undersize tooling to rough out the slot, then finish it to exact width with table adjustments. I use carbide endmills now, dry but with air flow to move the chips away from the cut zone. Surprisingly metric endmills are handy sizes for cutting inch base keys, because you can rough the keyway undersize with it, then take a cleanup cut down each side with the same tool: 3 mm for 1/8, 4mm for 3/16, 6mm for 1/4.
@@HuFlungDung2 I’m sorry but can’t agree, using the method I said a slip gauge is a tight fit in the slot and it can be done in one pass any size depending on the milling machine but up to 25 mm is easy. Having to rough and resize is bit unnecessary, a slot drill doesn’t deflect because there are two opposite flutes in contact all the time. A three or four flute endmill always cuts oversize in my experience.
Nice! Retired NDT Examiner/CWI. I am guessing that your new shaft is made from 304 CRES. Shop inspections on work like this was my bread & butter before I retired. Well done...
Great repair Josh and a great video. Love the repair content videos. I wonder if the area of the shaft that you questioned whether on purpose of just wear may have been on purpose for clearance to allow ease of getting say the bearing to its final position. In many repairs we tackled in the past we would take the extra step to have the shaft turned smaller in areas that had to be moved across when installing in the field for ease of installation. Doesn't hurt anything if nothing is mounted in those areas but makes for quick and easier installation of bearings or other shaft mounted components along the length of the shaft that are long distances between mounting points. Just a thought. Thanks for sharing.
Take a look at the motor plate for wiring or the wiring cover in side , many motors are will run both directions by switching a few wires to the center tap of the starter winding , by adding some wire to the leads to go to a switch to flip the connections so the motor can be made to start in forward or reverse . I did this to my lathe motor and put the switch where I could reach it to change before turning on the the on /off switch . I use reverse alot for different things , I never have to say i wish this thing had reverse again . I think if the motor is 3 phase it can be reversed with out even turning it off and stopping it , i am not sure what wires need changed on them .
Monarch gear head lathes are NOT designed to be run in reverse. I have seen a few destroyed because of being reversed. It is fine in an emergency, but never to be done as normal operations. Irreparable damage will be done.
@@TopperMachineLLC Yes , if it has a driven oil pump lube system that would not work for very long , as the pump would run backwards and not lube the bearings and gears . Have to always look at the big picture of everything involved . I almost wrecked my air compressor when changing the voltage from low to high in the motor wires and gotten the rotation reversed and didn't notice it at first and it ran backwards made air pressure just fine but had no oil pressure on the gauge , sean it fairly soon after and corrected the rotation , still working fine 40+ years later, got lucky .
@@kennethnevel3263 the Monarch has a cam actuated pump, but the problem is the internal clutches are designed for one direction and will cause damage if run backwards
I have a confession to make: back when I was a 2nd-year Apprentice, I had a memorable rotation in the Machine Shop. Lathes, milling machines, cylindrical and surface grinders, bolt, nut, and screw production, and even glass mould servicing-these were my daily tasks. One day, they handed me a shaft and told me to make a new one. I dove right in, fully focused. I spent three intense hours meticulously measuring all the different diameters, taper lengths, and chamfer shapes. I even asked the shop foreman what tolerances I had to work within-0.005 thousandths of an inch! I was taking everything seriously, ensuring the part was measured at exactly 22°C, and I handled the micrometers and Vernier calipers like a pro, touching only the insulated parts. After another three hours of machining, I stood there with my creation, absolutely beaming with pride. My first ever "Foreign Order!" I marched over to the foreman, full of confidence. He took one look at it-and burst out laughing! And then... the whole shop joined in, even the laborers! I was baffled until I realized: all those "precise" measurements I took? They were just bearing wear marks! Turns out, I was only supposed to give him a simple, untouched 3/4-inch bar! Once the laughter died down, the foreman pulled open a drawer and showed me a collection of previous apprentices' failed attempts. In the end, I got a 99% mark for my replication work-the 1% docked for not asking for a finished product sketch before starting the job. Lesson learned, big time!
When I got out of the Service I apprenticed in Tool & Die shop. Where the owner of the small shop taught me how to run all machines! He would take in small repair jobs like this and talk me through setup of the repair. I worked in the trades for 32 years, had a family, home and sent my kids through engineering schools. I miss working on the lathe or Bridgeport and making hot chips? And still think about sweeping up shop at the end of day! Thanks for the content!
My question for you is it better to plunge cut using an end mill to rough cut the key way. To make sharping the cutter more cost effective. I also understand it may depend on your equipment choices.
Another easy way to use metal spray technology is to add material on the shaft and machine according to the specification. I would suggest to add metal spray technology in your company.
14:58 I Assum that's a three fase machine, if so, make a switch or wat ever to change 2 fases, then it whil turn the other way around. Off course changing fases with the machine off.
I think your tall stock moved sideways a smidge when your center drill touched at about 12:32 on your video. Don't know if that is an issue or not. Great video.
A rotating part forces the drill towards the spindle axis, barring hard spots or angled face. I center drill with a quick change tool on the toolpost, so it is readily observed that the drill pulls itself to the spindle axis. If your work is accurately set up, the hole will be on center. If the tool approach is too far off center, then it will get thrown off center as it breaks the tool point off.
As to no reverse on the Monarch, easy fix. If the motor is 3phase the get a VFD for it and reverse is a button push away. Cheaper way would be to use a DPDT switch to flip 2 of the phases, this would reverse the motor too. If it is a single phase cap start motor, there are a couple of wires that need flipping to reverse the motor, again a DPDT switch and a bit of rewire. That or replace the motor with a 3 phase motor and a single phase to 3 phase inverter. This also gives you variable speed too!
With a VFD you don't need a clutch. Soft starting and easy reversing too and variable speed with constant HP as well. Thanks for the info on the monarch though, I was not aware of that regarding the clutch.
@@mikeiver I understand how a.vfd works, but it is not possible with the gear head monarchs. It will cause internal damage to the gear change clutches. They are designed one directional and do not take reversing.
It's getting to the point that even for commodity equipment, sourcing one-off custom replacement parts is becoming faster, easier and cheaper than sourcing replacements from the manufacturer. Just today I CAD'd up some sheet metal parts and sent them off for laser cutting at less than a third of the manufacturer's spares price.
Not to be "that guy", but oem designs cost R&D. Plus warehousing space and shipping employee(s) overhead. Throw in the ever growing availability of cnc; (unfortunately?) low barrier to entry then subsequent "race to the bottom" by the newcomers... you should see it as a positive, but completely reasonable, outcome.
@@mad1337nes if the OEM hasn’t recouped their costs in the 20 years since they discontinued the equipment, they aren’t going to, and if I can get them spot fabricated in less time than it takes them to dig them out of their inventory, so can they. And for the particular equipment I’m talking about, there is no alternate parts source for anything but consumables
@@EyeMWing So you're just complaining to complain? Yeah, having 3 digit lbs worth of metal stock, sitting on a high quality enough shelf to support them, in a building with 20+ft ceilings, and a guy(s) to keep track of it all and send it to you.... cost more than cleetus on his new "make firepits and tacky last name signs" plasma table. Care about something that actually matters (like how yall got rid of all the manufacturing/skilled labor from said manufacturing to get us into this predicament)
I’ve done it were I welded the shaft thicker and then used a lathe to bring it back to shape and size while not replacing much and it being still somewhat original and cheaper, that’s just me I’m all about original. 😅but in all you do a grate job.
Have you ever tackled a cost-saving repair like this? Share your favorite money-saving machining projects in the comments below!
I have an old (about 1930's) South Bend I bought about 40 years ago. I rebuilt it and rebeded it and added quick change I got some machinist books and learned the basics and I was in the USAF and the machine shop and welding guys would teach me things and let me use the shop machines to make special tools for the F-16 we had. I later called the local community college and spoke to the shop teachers and asked if I could enroll to get some more education and they told me that I would be wasting my time (after seeing photos of my old lathe) because they taught the CNC equipment. I love watching you work and I have used my lathe many times to make parts (NLA) for classic cars and trucks and consider my lathe work as therapy. There is a lot of satisfaction making something that the current parts industry says is "unattainable" and putting an old car back on the road with a freshly made distributor shaft or such. Thanks for your videos!
I have a confession to make, I was a 2nd year Apprentice when my rotation into the Machine Shop,
Lathes , Milling , Cylindrical and Surface Grinders, Bolt Nut and Screw production and Glass Mould Servicing, were the main duties , I was handed this shaft to make a new one , so I made an exact replica, I had spent three entire hours , measuring the differing Diameters , taper lengths , chamfer shapes , I even asked the shop Foreman what tolerances I could work within, 0.005 thousandths of an inch . I ensured all measurements were taken of the initial piece was at 22* Celsius and that I only touched the insulation on the Micrometer’s and Vernier Callipers. I made the shaft and I was as proud as punch, Happy as Larry , My first ever Foreign Order , it has taken another three hours to machine it up, I took it to the Shop Foreman , Who burst out laughing, and the entire shop joined in even the labourers, all of those differing diameters and tapers were actually bearing wear marks , I was supposed to hand the Foreman a Length of untouched 3/4 inch bar, After the laughing died off the foreman opened a drawer and pulled out the previous apprentice's attempts, In the end I was given 99% mark for duplication, less the 1% for not asking for a Finished Product Sketch, before starting a " Job Card ". Lesson Learned.
I actually asked the customer if I had to duplicate the original. I thought the wear was on the other end where the bearing was and the worn end was a feature. Lol. Glad I clarified it.
@@TopperMachineLLC Had you not actually said it I'd have spent a fair chunk of the video trying to decide if that could actually all be wear or not. That's a heck of a worn part.
@@TopperMachineLLCI thought that worn(short) end was a feature and not very excessively worn.
Very common mistake notasking for the original specification
@@toddhazell925 I thought so too! When it was a finished piece of 1 1/2 SS round bar stock, I felt like a fool! I looked around and made sure no one was looking!🤣🤣🤣🤣 Then again, I’m not a machinist!
Came here from a cutting edge engineering video, so nice to see the smaller scale stuff done so well, that threaded hole was simply butter.
Stripped out a worn shaft like that from a conveyor one day shift. Left the shaft on the bench with a note for night shift "Make a new one of these please" came back the next morning to a brand new shaft with the exact same "tapered end" machined in !
Lol
There's an old joke in the computer programming field. Programmer calls in a customer to demonstrate a program he asked for. After working with it a while the customer says, "Oh, no, this won't do at all." Programmer says, "What? I made it exactly to your specs." Customer, "Yes. Yes, it's just what I asked for, but not at all what I need."
Had the same thing in Dubai with a broken BMW motorcycle drive shaft had an Indian operated machine shop make me a new shaft "Same same" complete with the break in the middle!
u wantes exactly the same. haha
@@josephcote6120the real joke is that people actually think tech people do actual work 😂😂😂
Just happened to pop up on my video feed and I’m glad I watched it! I’m a subscriber now! I have never worked on a lathe or did any kind of machining but I would love to learn someday. It amazes me how this stuff works….and how much money you can save by making something instead of buying something. Great video! Thanks for sharing.
The anchor lube product placement reminds me of Wayne’s world when Garth was wearing the full Reebok outfit and saying it’s really a shame when people sellout 😂
Saving the customer will surely be on their minds when more machine shop work is needed .
No joke, even for big companies, the turnaround is more important usually.
I know we have paid local shops good money because they could get it back to us that evening.
$2700 is nothing when the machine is losing $xxx,xxx for every shift it's down.
Not sure how I stumbled onto this or why I ended up watching this, but found it very interesting. Guess I have a new channel to watch!
Put a center in the end. Just in case you need it later. Makes things easier.
I have a friend who has a 25 year old Dixon ZTR mower and I was fixing leaky hydro gearboxes when I discovered that one of the axle shafts had been eaten away by a loose inner bearing. Obsolete part - naturally. Local machine shop was able to weld it up and turn it to size. I re-assembled it with some red Loctite to try and keep it from happening again. So far, so good. 👍
Welding and machining. Two trades I wish I had learned when i was younger. Fascinating to watch how you handle the issues the customers bring you.
Kudos to the algorithm that brought me here. You have a new subscriber.
Your content is fascinating since it is amazing that the steel just seems to melt onto your hands like putty. Also, it’s very calming to see somebody actually creating product. Keep up the great work.
Thank you very much!
The luxury of a shop to work in instead of up on a roof, rebuilding blower motors, and changing bearings i’m serving a process cause me to remember the good old days
Very therapeutic watching and listening to this video, I’ve not used lathes and milling machines in over 15 years, since I retired early.
It always mesmerizing to watch a manual machinist who knows what he's doing. All your cuts are so good. Nice not to hear all the CNCs running at max all day. That screech......
Tig welding is one of those things that you must do every day or two I think to be good at it. I tig about 5-6 times a year and find a few mins of practice on some scrap is helpful. Just to get the motion down and the memory working again. Nice Job Josh, Your typical job shop repair right there. I need this can you help me out.
I think you're right about TIG welding. It always seems to take a bit to get back into it. But if you do it everyday, it goes great.
After 5 years of daily welding I have the muscle memory. I’m a decent tig welder. I do a lot of fabrication now so I weld a lot less. But when I need it it’s there.
I mostly do electronics test equipment but have done welding in n my day. I have had just enough experience to know that the weld you made made look so easy when you consider weld current, feed material and just 'the touch' to get it right. Maybe a professional welder could have made it look more beautiful but in my days, all 73 years of them, I have seen way more welds worse than yours and few better.
It's always nice when someone can save another shop a few dollars like you did there I'm sure you will get repeat business from them ! Great job ! Very professional looking ! 👍👍
My thought would put a key in the drive wheel so that down the road they could just have another shaft made and pressed back in and not have to weld it back together.
That's exactly what I would have done.Also eliminate bending stresses induced by welding.
Thanks, Josh. I think you just made yourself a new long-term customer. Funny how "gettin' it done right the first time" seems to make that happen... See you in the next one. Be well.
If you use pillow blocks with the set screws to lock them onto the shaft, they’ll walk on the shaft causing that wear. The best way to avoid that is to use pillow blocks with taper collars on them that actually squeeze the shaft.
I am impressed with the clutter free shop you keep. Nice work on the shaft. Great video thumbs up.
Yep, I think more people are getting into machining and also realize the value of old machines, because we can fix them. Very good to see you helping out where you can. Great job and thanks for the advice on machining stainless!
That looked like a fun project. It is always good to be able to replicate a OEM part
Crazy that no one out in your neck of the woods could do that!
Good business to have in WI. I know both industrial places I have worked the last 20 years absolutely love small guys like you who can keep us from overpaying AND having equipment down for way too long.
There is nobody left besides me. This region is economically depressed and industry is disappearing.
TIG welding is something I have never done. Back in my 20's. I used to do a lot of rust repairs on cars with oxy welding and I also did a lot of stick welding on other things. I only started MIG welding around 30 years ago and these days I mostly do MIG welding on my own projects.
I love doing repair machining not vary many of us out there anymore or at least in my area
I enjoy watching your video keep up the good work it's really entertaining and fascinating to watch people do jobs like that and other stuff and equipment
Well done, Josh. Thank you for the video.
Brings back memories of when we still had a lathe at work and I could actually do something instead of shipping everything out to a shop like this! And had they tightened the set screws in the bearings it wouldn't have spun down like that, not to mention that was months of spinning in the bearing unobserved
LORDY ... The 'Ol Monarch runs AWESOME
Well done ...your customer is very lucky
Awesome work! Where i work we get a lot of worn conveyor shafts, pretty cool to see into the process of repairing them.
Great job. A little trick I use when I weld rubber tires on trailer axles, I take an old towel and roll ice cubes in it then wrap that around around the tire. It's not perfect, but I don't have to be as careful to melt the rubber. Just gotta be a little quick because the ice will melt and drip down the side of the tire, But it's just the nature of the beast.
Depending on the assembly I use wet rags. But this one with the TIG welding I knew the heat was minimal and localized. Not much fear of harming the wheel. The shaft never really got hot on the short end. That's the cool part about TIG, very localized.
I totally agree, you did an awesome job!@@TopperMachineLLC
Lovely to see at least one of you guys not afraid to use cutting lubricants. One of my pet hates one most you tube engineering videos is the neglect of lubricants when either cutting or assembling components. Well done that man
Coolants and oils are not always necessary. Drilling and tapping, yes. Turning and milking with carbide, it really depends on your tooling. Most carbide will cut dry just as good and last just as long, as it would with using coolant. Dealing with the mess of coolant is the biggest reason not to use it. When I started out, I thought coolant was a requirement. I learned from some amazing people it was not.
Makes filming a bit more difficult.
Still, we love Josh Vanover, aka “Captain Dry”
@@TopperMachineLLC You neglected to mention that if you use coolant with carbide it HAS to be flooded with coolant, tapping of course is excepted.
@@Zzrdemon6633 Nonsense. Carbide is just fine using brushed on oil or spray mist.
What does not work is confusing coolant with lube, like why would you tap with coolant?
Great job Josh! I know you don't have much time... but it would be nice if a customer here and there would let you go see your work after they have re-installed it and gotten back up and running.
Also saw The Apprentice working hard in the background. I think at one point he was on the Lion lathe. Its nice that he has gotten to the point where he can work on his own for some things, without constant oversight.
Some of it is my time to go film, often it is more about privacy of the customer. I have seen most applications of my work, but they don't want their processes filmed. Or rather the potential glimpse of it.
Conner is doing great. He has a lot of jobs he will be doing coming up. He really enjoys welding and his skills are improving greatly.
I agree with that. I would love to see what some of those oddball things are used for.
Nice chips. Spotted that shaper, gonna have to check out more of your vids. Id love to get into machining someday
Your customer should be very happy, nice job. Be well this day
I'm a retired Software Engineer. I have NO idea why I watched this. I know nothing about machining and have NO desire to learn. I thought it was interesting. Good job!!!!
Good work!
And good job bypassing the OEM supplier.
I made a $470 spacing wheel a $19 item..
On old auto rebuilt generators the end of the armature wore they cut the end down welded a sleeve on the end if course they werre doing multiple items same problem .
I picked up some AnchorLube last year, and I gotta say.. it really has become my go-to for tapping.
Well done, another part produced correctly and at a reasonable price too.
As reasonable as possible with current material prices.
@@TopperMachineLLCYeah, you don't just waive the material cost anymore even if the job is for a repeat customer. I hear stories of what farmers pay for machine parts. Yikes! A simple tractor costs like half a million now.
As many others have stated not sure how exactly I got here but the first vid was cool. Chalk up another subscriber.
Excellent work - thanks for sharing
Great job for your lucky customer Josh if he has any sense he will be back to you for the next job he needs done :-) Best regards Sarah
Well done!! Nice machining.
Good job! That shaft really was shafted! I'm sure the customer was very pleased. Thanks for the video.
They saved a boat load of money on this one. Crazy what the OEM wanted for this.
Absolutely amazing job
I commented Because I like the content
Josh I really like the looks of that work stop you have on your mill vise.
GoStop from Go Manufacturing in Minnesota.
@@TopperMachineLLC thanks brother!
I worked in a shipyard abed lots of the stuff that we worked on was old and worn out some of the machines were were over 100 years old...Lots of reciprocating steam...there were NO Prints...lots of the threads were one of a kind not to any standard...
The guys in my shop were amazing at figuring out how something would have worked if it did and re engineering new parts to fit and work in the old machine....That experience served me well later a a watchmaker and clockmaker...No plans or drawings and no spare part available....And often screwed up by past attempts to fix it....
The really old stuff there was not even standard classification for the steel and brass or bronze...One of my old text books had you the student making your own regulator with a one second pendulum...With a temperature compensating pendulum....It started out with you casting the plates yourself....And began with get some red brass of good quality...
Unless I miss my guess that is the drive wheel from one of the smaller 1980s Advance Cleaning Machine Corporation's floor scrubbers.
I have done that same job but I also had to strap the wheel to a lathe faceplate and bore it for a larger bearing.
Another great video, thanks Josh. I am a hobby machinist, but I have the same CBB Monarch lathe. Great machines.
This is actually a CU. I've ran and almost owned a CBB
That looks a lot like a drive wheel from a floor scrubber. I worked on those for a living for a few years. Specifically a NSS brand drive wheel. Welding the wheel to the axle is different than what I am used to. Usually they are just keyed on the shaft.
I work with Swiss CNC lathes and I've always wondered if there are useful skills I could gain from running manual lathes. That answer is a resounding yes
hi there well done , best to all ,john
Nice welds! Great video also!-John in Texas
I was always taught to cut keyways in one pass with a slot drill using slow feed to get a perfect size.
P.S. I’m not saying I’m correct but it’s what I was taught.
The slot drill will deflect, putting your keyways off centerline. I used to do it that way back when I used HSS tooling with coolant. Now I have a good DRO on the mill, so I use undersize tooling to rough out the slot, then finish it to exact width with table adjustments. I use carbide endmills now, dry but with air flow to move the chips away from the cut zone.
Surprisingly metric endmills are handy sizes for cutting inch base keys, because you can rough the keyway undersize with it, then take a cleanup cut down each side with the same tool: 3 mm for 1/8, 4mm for 3/16, 6mm for 1/4.
@@HuFlungDung2 I’m sorry but can’t agree, using the method I said a slip gauge is a tight fit in the slot and it can be done in one pass any size depending on the milling machine but up to 25 mm is easy. Having to rough and resize is bit unnecessary, a slot drill doesn’t deflect because there are two opposite flutes in contact all the time. A three or four flute endmill always cuts oversize in my experience.
You make it look easy.
Thank you Josh!
You my friend are a good man
Nice! Retired NDT Examiner/CWI. I am guessing that your new shaft is made from 304 CRES. Shop inspections on work like this was my bread & butter before I retired. Well done...
Nice shop equipment.
Fascinating...what an art.
Enjoyed that. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.
Great repair Josh and a great video. Love the repair content videos. I wonder if the area of the shaft that you questioned whether on purpose of just wear may have been on purpose for clearance to allow ease of getting say the bearing to its final position. In many repairs we tackled in the past we would take the extra step to have the shaft turned smaller in areas that had to be moved across when installing in the field for ease of installation. Doesn't hurt anything if nothing is mounted in those areas but makes for quick and easier installation of bearings or other shaft mounted components along the length of the shaft that are long distances between mounting points. Just a thought.
Thanks for sharing.
I considered this, but not knowing anything about the final application I didn't want to chance it. They can bring it back if it needs changes.
@@TopperMachineLLCNever do more work up front than asked for.
Now that's a press !
That new ENCO lathe is sweet!
Take a look at the motor plate for wiring or the wiring cover in side , many motors are will run both directions by switching a few wires to the center tap of the starter winding , by adding some wire to the leads to go to a switch to flip the connections so the motor can be made to start in forward or reverse .
I did this to my lathe motor and put the switch where I could reach it to change before turning on the the on /off switch .
I use reverse alot for different things , I never have to say i wish this thing had reverse again .
I think if the motor is 3 phase it can be reversed with out even turning it off and stopping it , i am not sure what wires need changed on them .
Monarch gear head lathes are NOT designed to be run in reverse. I have seen a few destroyed because of being reversed. It is fine in an emergency, but never to be done as normal operations. Irreparable damage will be done.
@@TopperMachineLLC Yes , if it has a driven oil pump lube system that would not work for very long , as the pump would run backwards and not lube the bearings and gears .
Have to always look at the big picture of everything involved .
I almost wrecked my air compressor when changing the voltage from low to high in the motor wires and gotten the rotation reversed and didn't notice it at first and it ran backwards made air pressure just fine but had no oil pressure on the gauge , sean it fairly soon after and corrected the rotation , still working fine 40+ years later, got lucky .
@@kennethnevel3263 the Monarch has a cam actuated pump, but the problem is the internal clutches are designed for one direction and will cause damage if run backwards
I like the old Monarch lathes.
Used to run monarchs as an apprentice in the late 70s
I have a confession to make: back when I was a 2nd-year Apprentice, I had a memorable rotation in the Machine Shop. Lathes, milling machines, cylindrical and surface grinders, bolt, nut, and screw production, and even glass mould servicing-these were my daily tasks. One day, they handed me a shaft and told me to make a new one. I dove right in, fully focused. I spent three intense hours meticulously measuring all the different diameters, taper lengths, and chamfer shapes. I even asked the shop foreman what tolerances I had to work within-0.005 thousandths of an inch!
I was taking everything seriously, ensuring the part was measured at exactly 22°C, and I handled the micrometers and Vernier calipers like a pro, touching only the insulated parts. After another three hours of machining, I stood there with my creation, absolutely beaming with pride. My first ever "Foreign Order!"
I marched over to the foreman, full of confidence. He took one look at it-and burst out laughing! And then... the whole shop joined in, even the laborers! I was baffled until I realized: all those "precise" measurements I took? They were just bearing wear marks! Turns out, I was only supposed to give him a simple, untouched 3/4-inch bar!
Once the laughter died down, the foreman pulled open a drawer and showed me a collection of previous apprentices' failed attempts. In the end, I got a 99% mark for my replication work-the 1% docked for not asking for a finished product sketch before starting the job. Lesson learned, big time!
When I got out of the Service I apprenticed in Tool & Die shop. Where the owner of the small shop taught me how to run all machines! He would take in small repair jobs like this and talk me through setup of the repair. I worked in the trades for 32 years, had a family, home and sent my kids through engineering schools. I miss working on the lathe or Bridgeport and making hot chips? And still think about sweeping up shop at the end of day! Thanks for the content!
Possibly a sad view, but you have lovely swarf. You drills must be spot on sharp. Have you done, or do you intend to do a 'how to sharpen' vid?
hello Josh & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Josh & Friends Randy
My question for you is it better to plunge cut using an end mill to rough cut the key way. To make sharping the cutter more cost effective. I also understand it may depend on your equipment choices.
ALORIS Tool Post R the BEST!
Ahem 😁 Best after Multifix.
Another easy way to use metal spray technology is to add material on the shaft and machine according to the specification. I would suggest to add metal spray technology in your company.
Great video.
Doing it right the first time!, trying. Thanks for this.
14:58 I Assum that's a three fase machine, if so, make a switch or wat ever to change 2 fases, then it whil turn the other way around. Off course changing fases with the machine off.
There’s something really satisfying about a hydraulic press: No miss, no fuss, it just calmly says “you *are* coming out” 😂
not that simple
Nice job! 👍
Interesting 2-way press. I don't think I've ever seen one you pump UP!
Nice work !
boy I think the customer really for the shaft this time! lol good work!
Nice to have a standard size shaft that has stock available in the right size already
I think your tall stock moved sideways a smidge when your center drill touched at about 12:32 on your video. Don't know if that is an issue or not. Great video.
A rotating part forces the drill towards the spindle axis, barring hard spots or angled face. I center drill with a quick change tool on the toolpost, so it is readily observed that the drill pulls itself to the spindle axis. If your work is accurately set up, the hole will be on center. If the tool approach is too far off center, then it will get thrown off center as it breaks the tool point off.
@@HuFlungDung2 Thank you for taking the time to explain.
As to no reverse on the Monarch, easy fix. If the motor is 3phase the get a VFD for it and reverse is a button push away. Cheaper way would be to use a DPDT switch to flip 2 of the phases, this would reverse the motor too. If it is a single phase cap start motor, there are a couple of wires that need flipping to reverse the motor, again a DPDT switch and a bit of rewire. That or replace the motor with a 3 phase motor and a single phase to 3 phase inverter. This also gives you variable speed too!
Monarchs can not be reversed unless you want to damage the clutches.
With a VFD you don't need a clutch. Soft starting and easy reversing too and variable speed with constant HP as well. Thanks for the info on the monarch though, I was not aware of that regarding the clutch.
@@mikeiver I understand how a.vfd works, but it is not possible with the gear head monarchs. It will cause internal damage to the gear change clutches. They are designed one directional and do not take reversing.
You do nice work.
i have 4-5 old inner tubes under my press. in case the item i want is falling
Good, straightforward job - when will people learn to grease ?!?
Probably not until they have to pay for the damages out of their own pockets.
I probably drive my employees crazy with multiple white boards with to-do lists and maintenance schedules, but, as you imply, it’s MY sh*t !!!
It's getting to the point that even for commodity equipment, sourcing one-off custom replacement parts is becoming faster, easier and cheaper than sourcing replacements from the manufacturer.
Just today I CAD'd up some sheet metal parts and sent them off for laser cutting at less than a third of the manufacturer's spares price.
Not to be "that guy", but oem designs cost R&D. Plus warehousing space and shipping employee(s) overhead. Throw in the ever growing availability of cnc; (unfortunately?) low barrier to entry then subsequent "race to the bottom" by the newcomers... you should see it as a positive, but completely reasonable, outcome.
@@mad1337nes if the OEM hasn’t recouped their costs in the 20 years since they discontinued the equipment, they aren’t going to, and if I can get them spot fabricated in less time than it takes them to dig them out of their inventory, so can they.
And for the particular equipment I’m talking about, there is no alternate parts source for anything but consumables
@@EyeMWing So you're just complaining to complain? Yeah, having 3 digit lbs worth of metal stock, sitting on a high quality enough shelf to support them, in a building with 20+ft ceilings, and a guy(s) to keep track of it all and send it to you.... cost more than cleetus on his new "make firepits and tacky last name signs" plasma table.
Care about something that actually matters (like how yall got rid of all the manufacturing/skilled labor from said manufacturing to get us into this predicament)
late to the premier, but here, had to work all day, best wishes Josh, ....Paul down in central Florida
Great video like always Josh! 👍👍
Lol... Funny when you think about how many of those went to the scrap yard
I’ve done it were I welded the shaft thicker and then used a lathe to bring it back to shape and size while not replacing much and it being still somewhat original and cheaper, that’s just me I’m all about original. 😅but in all you do a grate job.
Great content! Love your work
Saving a sockful of money! Nice TIGing too - I'm subbed