lmao, damn Christmas Tree w/ wheels on it! Lots of points of failure there, bleh. Not much you can do there I guess, probably related to the lights up front I'd say rather than the brake lights on the trailer hitch...but hell, could be anything.
It turned out to be the aftermarket sub harness running the lights on the flagpole attachment on the trailer hitch... Had a bunch of resistors and crap to try and trick the CAN system. Customer said all lights have had issues since installing it... That sucker was pulling about 6 amps on it's own! The customer had me pull it all out and everything is back to normal now.
MrSlowestD16 Nope, they are on their own circuit and are active at all times like an automobile. However, the running lights and signal system are tied to the same fused circuit that powers a couple CAN modules. In this case, the Left Multi Switch and a portion of the dashboard (Cluster Module). How the power distribution is handled was greatly improved in 2013. There are now two fusebox panels in the front cargo area...
Shawn Smoak Ah, I gotcha. Yeah, that makes sense...not sure why they're tied to important equipment like that, haha, sounds like those changes were necessary.
Oh man , That's not good . I wonder what he ended up doing that made it act up like that .. I guess now he knows to let the pros do the install ... Oh and that cup holder ... love it .. hehe.. I have the rest of that ram mount but not the cup holder .. sweet .. love it .
It was caused by a failure in the aftermarket sub harness for the rear lights on the flagpole holder, attached to the trailer hitch. It was pulling almost 6 amps without hitting the brake or turn signals. The normal load on that circuit is 1.3 amps. Over 7 amps running on a 15 amp fuse is way too close to the edge, no room for peaks... Those RAM mounts are crazy popular! Thanks dbest1a!
Shawn Smoak his seed's name is Kyle and conner but tell him I say hey & how would you recommend a vrscdx? I've been checking them out and like so far what I see
hi shawn this is wazza from sydney australia very impressive . last time I spoke to you I was hoping to get an spyder well I have good news my wife gave in and I found a bargin but its not new its a 2011 RTS colur red .Do you think raising the shocks would improve the handling and fiting a swaybar thanks wazza
That's fantastic news Wazza, congratulations! Raising the ride height of the front end will have an adverse and negative affect on the Spyder's handling. If rider weight is causing too much sag up front, you can increase the spring preload on the front shocks. Some like the stiffer sway bars up front, but I find that they slow me down in cornering because it tends to make the Spyder have a 'sawing' effect. Having the unit body roll in a turn seems unnatural and wrong, but actually makes them more stable in the turn. You have to put more body english into it though... The number one ride and handling improvement you could possibly do to a Spyder is to have it carefully laser aligned! Unfortunately it's not a required tool for Spyder dealers at this point, so it can be tough to find someone that does it. If they truly care about their Spyder customer's satisfaction, they will buy the laser alignment kit! We have so many people flooding to our dealership to have it performed, that I can hardly keep up with them...! Have fun on that beautiful red RT, and be safe out there!
Hello. i have a question regarding my 2011 can am spyder rt roster semi auto i was driving it last year and it drives great, this year when i started driving it to be able to change gears i have to wait for the revs to reach 5,000 RPM from which It is not normal, what would be this problem, and how can I fix it. Your help will be very appreciated.
Hi Shawn, I remember one of your earlier vlogs about “ farkeling” extra lights etc. can cause issues if wired wrong. I have a 2012 RT. with extra lights. Etc. how often should you check your fuses. Or is there some preventative maintenance that can be done. Before a trip to the shop?
When I add lights I use a relay actuated by a light wire (low amp draw) and power lights straight from the battery. Also I change out all my light bulbs with LED light bulbs to lower the amp draw and give me more light. This protects from overloading the alternator and ruining it. I Imagine replacing a Can-Am alternator is very expensive and labor intensive . A friend had a motorcycle repair shop until his health forced him to retire. He said it cost so much to fix motorcycles people don't come back to get them.
Cool, glad this was of some use. I did find the issue to be caused by an aftermarket sub harness overloading a circuit. Customer had me remove the sub harness... Thanks for watching sir!
Hi. I got 2013 Spyder RT-s se5. Battery died and not getting charge. replacing battery didn't resolve the problem. So I'm almost sure it's stator. Could also be rectifier. I could measure the ohms or volts on it, but I'm not even sure where it physically located. Would you please give me a hint? Thx.
Shawn thanks that fuse relay fix saved by butt. Seems to have fixed my 2010
Hi Shawn why is 2013 Spyder rt limited SE5 gas and temperature gauge is not working properly
Thanks for the tip
Thanks for watching Brian!
Realize this is an old video but I saw that some of of the after market LED's can confuse the computer. Truth to that?
hmm my guess, owner overloaded system when he wired in that trailer hitch on the back?
Hunting shorts is like hunting snipes LOL
Good luck Shawn
Lol, yeah, this could be quick, or it could be my worst nightmare...!
Shawn Smoak I'll be looking for a followup vid
Shawn, do you know if LaMoster’s electrical products have been vetted by BRP?
Was this problem to do with accessory lights being plumbed into the electrical system?
lmao, damn Christmas Tree w/ wheels on it!
Lots of points of failure there, bleh. Not much you can do there I guess, probably related to the lights up front I'd say rather than the brake lights on the trailer hitch...but hell, could be anything.
It turned out to be the aftermarket sub harness running the lights on the flagpole attachment on the trailer hitch... Had a bunch of resistors and crap to try and trick the CAN system. Customer said all lights have had issues since installing it... That sucker was pulling about 6 amps on it's own! The customer had me pull it all out and everything is back to normal now.
Shawn Smoak Even the brake lights are part of the CAN??
MrSlowestD16 Nope, they are on their own circuit and are active at all times like an automobile. However, the running lights and signal system are tied to the same fused circuit that powers a couple CAN modules. In this case, the Left Multi Switch and a portion of the dashboard (Cluster Module). How the power distribution is handled was greatly improved in 2013. There are now two fusebox panels in the front cargo area...
Shawn Smoak Ah, I gotcha. Yeah, that makes sense...not sure why they're tied to important equipment like that, haha, sounds like those changes were necessary.
Oh man , That's not good . I wonder what he ended up doing that made it act up like that .. I guess now he knows to let the pros do the install ... Oh and that cup holder ... love it .. hehe.. I have the rest of that ram mount but not the cup holder .. sweet .. love it .
It was caused by a failure in the aftermarket sub harness for the rear lights on the flagpole holder, attached to the trailer hitch. It was pulling almost 6 amps without hitting the brake or turn signals. The normal load on that circuit is 1.3 amps. Over 7 amps running on a 15 amp fuse is way too close to the edge, no room for peaks...
Those RAM mounts are crazy popular!
Thanks dbest1a!
Hey does Jim still work with you in the shop?
Oh man, there's three of them now, and they are all still here.
Shawn Smoak his seed's name is Kyle and conner but tell him I say hey & how would you recommend a vrscdx? I've been checking them out and like so far what I see
Cool! Those Night Rod V-Rod's are awesome!
hi shawn this is wazza from sydney australia very impressive .
last time I spoke to you I was hoping to get an spyder well I have good news my wife gave in and I found a bargin but its not new its a 2011 RTS colur red .Do you think raising the shocks would improve the handling and fiting a swaybar thanks
wazza
That's fantastic news Wazza, congratulations! Raising the ride height of the front end will have an adverse and negative affect on the Spyder's handling. If rider weight is causing too much sag up front, you can increase the spring preload on the front shocks. Some like the stiffer sway bars up front, but I find that they slow me down in cornering because it tends to make the Spyder have a 'sawing' effect. Having the unit body roll in a turn seems unnatural and wrong, but actually makes them more stable in the turn. You have to put more body english into it though... The number one ride and handling improvement you could possibly do to a Spyder is to have it carefully laser aligned! Unfortunately it's not a required tool for Spyder dealers at this point, so it can be tough to find someone that does it. If they truly care about their Spyder customer's satisfaction, they will buy the laser alignment kit! We have so many people flooding to our dealership to have it performed, that I can hardly keep up with them...!
Have fun on that beautiful red RT, and be safe out there!
Thanks shawn will take your advice and yes it is hard to find the laserline not many shops have it .
Thanks again shawn will be in touch
Wazza
Hello. i have a question regarding my 2011 can am spyder rt roster semi auto i was driving it last year and it drives great, this year when i started driving it to be able to change gears i have to wait for the revs to reach 5,000 RPM from which It is not normal, what would be this problem, and how can I fix it. Your help will be very appreciated.
Hi Shawn, I remember one of your earlier vlogs about “ farkeling” extra lights etc. can cause issues if wired wrong. I have a 2012 RT. with extra lights. Etc. how often should you check your fuses. Or is there some preventative maintenance that can be done. Before a trip to the shop?
When I add lights I use a relay actuated by a light wire (low amp draw) and power lights straight from the battery. Also I change out all my light bulbs with LED light bulbs to lower the amp draw and give me more light. This protects from overloading the alternator and ruining it. I Imagine replacing a Can-Am alternator is very expensive and labor intensive . A friend had a motorcycle repair shop until his health forced him to retire. He said it cost so much to fix motorcycles people don't come back to get them.
Wild Spyder Electrical Issue! | ShopTalk
Cool, glad this was of some use. I did find the issue to be caused by an aftermarket sub harness overloading a circuit. Customer had me remove the sub harness...
Thanks for watching sir!
I figured that it was a bad or low battery voltage
Hi. I got 2013 Spyder RT-s se5. Battery died and not getting charge. replacing battery didn't resolve the problem. So I'm almost sure it's stator. Could also be rectifier. I could measure the ohms or volts on it, but I'm not even sure where it physically located. Would you please give me a hint? Thx.
Getherdone Smoak
Could have just put a bigger amp fuse in it...............Just kidding !
My favorite is the paper clip fuse... Lol
Thanks Mike!