Thanks! Phase 1 is getting close to completion, which will be getting it on the road. Phase 2 will probably come later this summer, which will be lowering and wheels. Phase 3 will be in the distant future, which will be repairing the rusty body/bed and painting.
Don't forget to use the word laser! How to Laser clean underside blah blah blah!!! Love it bro! Thumba up and subscribed saw your laser shorts wow they are fun
That laser is frekin’ awesome! This is one of the few reasons that I don’t hate the future. (I still don’t have hope, but I don’t actively hate it.) ;-)
That would be great, but the difficult part would be getting them to Ohio. I have a less rusty white bed (with a lot of body damage) that I'll be repairing for this truck, eventually.
I left some areas because they were not rusty at all. The factory primer/paint is better than the aerosol stuff I'm using, so I leave the factory coating when I can. If I had more time, a bigger budget, and the ideal work space, I'd definitely strip the whole thing to bare metal and use DTM primer and urethane paint.
Personally if it was me I would have gone to bare metal on all of the underside and then put on etch primer, then the seam sealer followed by paint and the rubber coat. The way I see it you are going to all that trouble to remove the rust, so why not start with a totally clean plate.
I left some areas because they were not rusty at all. The factory primer/paint is better than the aerosol stuff I'm using, so I leave the factory coating when I can. If I had more time, a bigger budget, and the ideal work space, I'd strip the whole thing to bare metal and use DTM primer and urethane paint.
IK this shows my ignorance of automotive/engine paints, but ... isnt there a paint (or something) that we can apply to engines, body undersides, etc that is oil-phobic? That isnt the right word, but idk what it is. Basically isnt there a paint or paint like substance that is very difficult for dirt and oil and grime to stick to? If so, is it just really expensive or something ... o.w. idk why i dont see folks use it more. Thanks.
Hmmm that's a good idea, but I haven't heard of such a product. To be honest, I don't mind oil residue sticking to paint. It actually helps repel the real enemy of these trucks, which is road salt. I'll gladly clean/degrease oil over replace rotted rusty metal any day.
Love your videos 👍 your project is so close to being completed. Can’t wait to see the final result!
Agreed. But it'll also be a bit sad to reach the end of it.
Thanks! Phase 1 is getting close to completion, which will be getting it on the road. Phase 2 will probably come later this summer, which will be lowering and wheels. Phase 3 will be in the distant future, which will be repairing the rusty body/bed and painting.
It won't be ending any time soon... I have long term plans for this old truck :)
You’re moving along nicely! I look forward to all your progress videos.
Love the bit with Mikey at the end.
Don't forget to use the word laser! How to Laser clean underside blah blah blah!!! Love it bro! Thumba up and subscribed saw your laser shorts wow they are fun
This has been such a fun project... The laser really moves things along.
Nice theatrical touch there at the end.
That laser is frekin’ awesome!
This is one of the few reasons that I don’t hate the future.
(I still don’t have hope, but I don’t actively hate it.)
;-)
Haha, that couldn't be better said!
Awesome to see an upload! Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it! I've put other projects on hold to try and upload a new video of this project every week.
Great video and nice work !
Thank you!
Awesome, love the ending 😅
AMAZINGNES!!!
I love this content.
Some serious chicken scratch. Fitzee will show you the way
That thing looks very cool. Seems to work great. But what would it cost to have one ?
They start in the $4k-$5k range for a 1000w continuous wave machine. This one was $9k.
Mikey! sup bro!
I know of a couple of blue long beds in western Colorado. They have been made into truck trailers. If you are in need of a better bed, I can inquire.
That would be great, but the difficult part would be getting them to Ohio. I have a less rusty white bed (with a lot of body damage) that I'll be repairing for this truck, eventually.
I personally would have taken the time to get down to bare metal and use etching primer and seam sealer and a rubber undercoat. But overall nice work.
I left some areas because they were not rusty at all. The factory primer/paint is better than the aerosol stuff I'm using, so I leave the factory coating when I can. If I had more time, a bigger budget, and the ideal work space, I'd definitely strip the whole thing to bare metal and use DTM primer and urethane paint.
Personally if it was me I would have gone to bare metal on all of the underside and then put on etch primer, then the seam sealer followed by paint and the rubber coat. The way I see it you are going to all that trouble to remove the rust, so why not start with a totally clean plate.
I left some areas because they were not rusty at all. The factory primer/paint is better than the aerosol stuff I'm using, so I leave the factory coating when I can. If I had more time, a bigger budget, and the ideal work space, I'd strip the whole thing to bare metal and use DTM primer and urethane paint.
IK this shows my ignorance of automotive/engine paints, but ... isnt there a paint (or something) that we can apply to engines, body undersides, etc that is oil-phobic? That isnt the right word, but idk what it is. Basically isnt there a paint or paint like substance that is very difficult for dirt and oil and grime to stick to? If so, is it just really expensive or something ... o.w. idk why i dont see folks use it more. Thanks.
Hmmm that's a good idea, but I haven't heard of such a product. To be honest, I don't mind oil residue sticking to paint. It actually helps repel the real enemy of these trucks, which is road salt. I'll gladly clean/degrease oil over replace rotted rusty metal any day.
@@6thGearGarage good point