3D printing guides: Setting up auto bed tramming leveling tilt compensation!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ค. 2024
- Learn how to set up automatic bed tramming on your 3D printer, as seen on the new Printrbots!
Sensor preparation 2:45
Firmware 4:35
Trying it out 8:00
Height adjustment 9:52
These inductive sensors are supposed to have transistor outputs, and therefore should traditionally be hooked up in a different way than i'm showing in the video. However, the internal circuitry of these sensors is set up in a way that would damage our electronics if connected like that, so using the voltage divider is the better choice in the end.
So for 12V, using a pair of identical 10k (or 15k) resistors instead of one 10k and one 15k should give voltages closer to 5V (check with a multimeter), but the mentioned 10k and 15k combo works well, too.
8.1k and 22k for 24V.
Inductive sensor [12V, 🌐] s.click.aliexpress.com/e/IYnUZnU
Prusa-Style, smaller sensor that will work without the resistors [5V, 🌐] s.click.aliexpress.com/e/qBmM3ny
Simply connect the sensor output directly to the input and supply the sensor from 5V, for example from the endstop or servo pins!
Inductive sensor from Printrbot printrbot.com/shop/auto-leveli...
Taulman Toolbox Kickstarter www.kickstarter.com/projects/...
🎧 Check out the Meltzone Podcast (with CNC Kitchen)! / @themeltzone
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I guess we need a 2017 version of this bed leveling video with latest Marlin firmware because it seems that a lot of things have changed in the firmware in 2 years.
did you even checked what u linked.... thats a total different story .......
Everything looks great, but when I start a print the nozzle skratch the heatbed.??
check FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
there is no ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING (when you enable one of methods, it's active)
instead of AUTO_BED_LEVELING_GRID (more methods uses grid) use AUTO_BED_LEVELING_LINEAR/AUTO_BED_LEVELING_BILINEAR (check description)
OFFSET and BED_POSITION are same
ENDSTOPS_ONLY_FOR_HOMING is now reverted to ENDSTOPS_ALWAYS_ON_DEFAULT
you can also just go through it (comments are very descriptive) and configure it for your needs, some cool features to be found there too
Great work Thomas, thank you. Very helpful!
I couldn't imagine how much unlevel was my bed, even after very detailed manual calibration. After instaling auto level, surprised from the result, especialy from continous motion of z- steppers!!
I have already printed a piece I couldnt print before, though tried 3 times after manual bed leveling.
One more thing: I don't use aluminium bed.I've tried a double aluminium foil from my kitchen under a thin glass from IKEA, and the sensor works perfect!
What a great tutorial. I replaced my Wanhao Duplicator i3 Melzi board with the Ramps and followed your guide. My auto tramming is working perfectly and I will never look back again. Thank you!
Thanks Tom for posting this excellent guide. I followed it last night and got mine working on a SunHokey Prusa i3. Cheers!!!
You have no idea how much trouble you saved me ive been looking all over the internet for how to run cura with a g29 on my metal simple and now not only are my prints better but they are reassuring that they will work and great videos and awesome tips keep it up
You saved my day! Thank you for these awesome instructions!!!
Thanks for the great tutorial. Waiting for my 2 cu foot cast aluminum print bed to come in and try it :)
Thx for the share I was looking for some explanation and this is great going to try it out on both my printers
Golden, Thanks for this. Thats perfect
Thanks for your support on this as always...)
Hi Thomas. Thanks for showing clearly how to hook up the resistors. I had an idea of how to do it, but wanted to be sure. This cleared it up. I should be watching the video several more times.
I got this working fine on my printer. However, when the sensor I got is not sensing anything, the signal wire is measuring 11.98 volts and when I put it on a piece of steel, the signal wire measures 0.66 volts. So I had to set the enstop inverting opposite of what you showed. I used a 22K Ohm and a 33K Ohm resistor as those were all I could find locally. Now the sensor wire produces 4.77 volts when not triggered and 0.2 volts when triggered.
If you use LJ18 sensor instead of typical LJ12, LJ18 has twice as much triggering distance and it's little bit more sensitive too so in theory you can use glass with some metal underneath if you have LJ18 sensor.
Thank you Thomas, this video was extremely helpful.
Awesome! Very helpful and too the point :) Made adding my inductive sensor a breeze.
Thank you. Everything works perfectly.
Hey Tom. Thanks for this very informative guide. However, you should update the part where you state that you cannot use an inductive proximity sensor with a 3mm glass plate. The 8mm sensor LJ18A3-8-Z/BX has no problem detecting an aluminum plate under 3mm of glass and works just as accurately in my experience as the 4mm version (cost for both is the same as well). The only downside is that it has an 18mm diameter and so it might be more in the way depending on placement.
+Nathan Hedin It works great, just a pain in the butt to find a mount for.
Best part is it can be found on amazon at a similar price to ebay. Also mine powered off of 5 volts so no voltage divider required(tho 12v seems like it has more range).
I have made a mount that has been working great so far. It should work well for a variety of bots due to common screw spacing for E3D hot ends. Here is the the thing: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1343079
Nathan Hedin I will try that once I get my E3D in the mail.
I think my fan currently is a bit bigger.
Always good to have more options. I actually have something I cobbled up for now but it's not ideal.
I probably won't be happy till I replace every single part of the printer lol.
Have you tried placing a sheet of aluminum foil under 3mm glass with that specific sensor.
That would work fine too. I have an aluminum build plate under right now and I think that's the way to go. The aluminum spreads heat MUCH better than just the glass on PCB...plus the glass fits very flat on the alu plate, but not very flat on the PCB.
Thanks so much for this!
Thank you for the straightforward explanation.
Great Video - I couldn't figure this out without help.
Thank you for the video Thomas, very helpfull indeed. Got it working on Anet A8 with latest Marlin firmware 1.1.9 at the moment. :-)
Great job with this!
Would the 5 volt version work better? LJ12A3-4-Z/BX-5V
awsome dude! thats great info!
Awesome, man! Thanks!
Thanks Tom! best tutorial around by far!
Were you able to get this to work? I am about to start this tonight, and I just saw this tutorial is a bit old.
Hello all. I've been struggling with this for a few days and now have it working. I had been using a Marlin i3 rework then another two I thought should work... They turned out to be rc's and noticed that there were issues... Now with a vanilla Marlin 1.0.x everything is working ... Except now the Full ReprapDisount LCD won't compile! Thanks for the video.
Hi, Thanks for the video.
I have a Prusa i3 with a glass bed, and I really like using glass. Is it possible to use a capacitive proximity sensor instead of the inductive type?
Tom the new version of Marlin is already different to this tutorial, I carnt find the "#define_endstops_for_homing in the new version.
Thank you for your good explainations!
I'm having some trouble with my autoleveling on an Anet A8 with Skynet 2.4.3 Software.
I calibratet my sensor like the toturial from Skynet told me. I get really good results over the whole bed if the sensor mesures right.
Now to the IF: When starting a print the height of the sensor varies about 0.2 mm after the leveling. Sometimes it works sometimes not... I have no good explaination for that.
I already turned of the heat bed when the leveling process starts and wired the cable as far away as possible from other cables to avoid any electric fields.
I need some good ideas to get this fixed ;)
Great video Tom. Thanks...
Hello, I have been thinking to upgrade my current automatic bed tramming set-up (a servo and a mechanical switch) for a capacitive one . I have a questions for you. Why did you choose an Inductive sensor instead of a capacitive one ? That force you to use a metal sheet over the print bed, so it requires extra component if you do not have one.
Very Useful, just got this installed on my Hephestos Prusa by bq.
Thanks for the helpful video!
My question is, when I do a circle test file... it does a spiral and goes inwards. One side of the circle is perfect, but the other side seems like the bed is lower.
I put a g28 and g29 on the print and still does it. Any idea?
Hi Tom firstly I really appreciate your videos. If we use a capacitive sensor instead of inductive we wont be needing the aluminium plate as it can detect glass and other materials also. Regards, Engr. Shahyan
Great video man. Any ideas where I can find a round slab of metal? This is for a delta printer. I'm thinking about cutting a cooking pot.
These guides are awesome, Felt like i just went to school for free
Hi. I am using an LJ12A3-4-Z/BX.(NPN, NO). I powered it from 12 Volts. Tried both the resistor voltage divider and the regulator and they both work.
However, the high value isn't exactly 5 Volts, and the LED on the sensor is always on, a little darker when the sensor is not triggered. (That has no functionality effect, I just don't like it)
The reason why that happens is because the sensor's output is actually open collector, and the only thing sourcing 12 Volts to the output when the sensor is not triggered is the led circuit, which also has a 10k resistor.
A better solution to interface the sensor to the board is to use just a diode, like this:
- brown wire to 12 Volts,
- blue wire to Gnd
- black wire to the cathode of the diode
- anode of the diode to the processor input
- internal pull-up enabled!
Any diode would work, I used a 1N4148.
Now the processor 'sees' 5Volts for high and ~0.6Volts for Low (diode forward drop), which is perfectly safe.
And the LED turns on only when the sensor is triggered!
Schematic:
BROWN ---------- 12V
BLACK ------|
+Kostas Karouzos With this solution do you still need to build the voltage divider, or is the diode all you need?
+Evan Vruggink Interesting. I have this sensor. www.ebay.com/itm/271664656457?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
+Evan Vruggink Thank you, I'm willing to try anything at this point. I have others even say they just wire the 5v input and the sensor works fine, no need for 12v. Tried that with no luck. I'll try the diode.
+Evan Vruggink OK, I am still a little confused by this. If I place the diode as shown, no voltage gets through. Is that what is suppose to happen?
+ArcadEd Yes, this is what is supposed to happen. With the diode configuration I showed, the NPN switch only drives the output LOW when it is triggered. In the untriggered state the diode isolates the sensor circuit from the processor, so the 12 Volts won't reach it. There comes in the internal (or an additional external in some boards) pull-up resistor to drive the processor's pin to 5Volts (logic HIGH). It doesn't need any other components to work. Only a single diode
Hey Thomas, you mentioned glue stick in this video. Which brand can you recommend? (I'm in Germany too). Thanks!
Most helpful video, thanks
Couple month ago I've tested a LJ18A3-8-Z/AX sensor and I was able to trigger it with small cut of aluminum from my coke container! I also tried aluminum foil and it triggered fine. But I did not try to install the sensor onto my printer and run some real tests because I have now HE280 from SeeMeCNC and it uses calibration installed in the Hot End circuitry. I also tested similat sensor LJ12A3-4/ZBX and it performed same with aluminum foil .. as described above.
Thanks for your videos Thomas!!!
Hi Tom, Thank you for your brilliant video's, I have upgraded my Prusa i3 to auto bed leveling/tramming. I couldn't have done it without you help. The problem I had previously, was due to the large resistor being 130K instead of 13K, it made the voltage far to low to work with the logic levels of the controller board..
Kevin.
a note i found LJ123A3-4-Z/BY its a PNP 6-36v inductive sensor. it works on the 5v supplied from end stops on the ramps 1.4 and should on just about any other boards that support 5v end stops. there is no modification needed.
very true. thinking about it would pull more milliamps. enjoying the auto leveling tho. do a small test print every day to figure out if i got to adjust the offset. ready to get an aluminum plate n get rid of the plastic coated wood.
ehi Thom, great video, I've followed it step by step, but my printer doesn't seems to work properly... I've setted up a 3 points probing on Marlin. When I start G29 command, the printer probes (correctly, it seems) but when it finish, in the log there's only this:
10:34:30.982 : Piano x: 0.00 y: 0.00 z: 1.07
10:34:39.151 : Piano x: 130.00 y: 145.00 z: 1.23
10:34:47.011 : Piano x: 10.00 y: 145.00 z: 0.84
10:34:47.011 : echo:endstops hit: Z:0.84
Then it starts printing WITHOUT corrections!! Have you ever ear something similar before? Do you know what can I do?
Cheers, Lorenzo
Can this method be used on CR10?
Do you know if there is a way to set up a sensor on a monoprice mini? Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the excellent guide. I have two question:
1st: Would you mind sharing your heated bed setup? If you use a silicon mat on the aluminum plate and print directly to that one you can neither swap the aluminum plate when scratched too much nor remove it in case you cannot get off parts. Do you use two plates on top of each other? Which thickness?
2nd: why do you do a g29 before manually adjusting the z height. I'd guess g28 would be sufficient and makes sure z at the point you are probing at is correct, right?
Thanks in advance
Hi Tom ... great video ... I downloaded and configured Marlin 1.0.2 for auto-bed
leveling. I used an LJ12A3-2-Z/AX sensor with aluminium tape on glass.
After I worked out all of the numbers in configuration.h, it worked
great ... UNTIL, I heated up the bed to 70 deg C to make the final Z
nozzle offset measurement.
After about 10-20 minutes, the sensor apparently overheats and goes into the
"triggered" mode, even if I move it away from the metal. After a while,
it cools and works again. This symptom is repeatable.
Do note, this sensor has a 2mm sensing distance, so it's pretty close to
the heat (I had these in my junk box). Also, in doing some research,
the max temp on these sensors is 50 deg C. More expensive ones that go
up to 70 and even >150 are available for ~$150. I did like the repeatability which is stated
as a percentage of sensing distance.
My question ... have you seen this symptom while trying to use inductive proximity sensors?
I remember in your video, you suggested > 8mm sensing distance ... was it to avoid this problem in part?
I found a potentially better sensor ... 10mm sensing distance and spec'ed to 70 C from EZAutomation.
Any wisdom would be greatly appreciated,
Dan
Tom, I know this is referring to an older version of Marlin. I enabled this for my first printer, a Geeetech i3 Pro X and it works beautifully.
I am trying to duplicate it for my new build (a Wilson 2), however, once enabled, the Z home is NOT moving to the centre of the bed with a G28 is not working, it's simply homes to 0,0 as without bed leveling enabled
I feel it would get a better starting point for the grid (3x3 points) if it started in the centre, as yours does at 9:55 and my old printer does too.
For reference, I am using Marlin 1.1.4 on my new printer. Do you know if homing Z to the centre is an option in this new version?
Tom, Great Vid! Will this work with the Makerfarm Prusa 12" i3v printer?Thanks in advance!
I'm getting ready to try one out on a Makerfarm Pegasus 10 that I just got going last night. Currently printing the last of the upgrade parts (PLA fan assembly, bed extenders and probe holder)
If it doesn't work I'll put it on another printer I'm making that has the MK2 with aluminum heat bed and get an 8mm sensor and try that on the Pegasus.
Nice Video - and i think i found another option which i had not setup correctly yet.
Just wanted to mention the bltouch sensor which uses servo output and implements an endstop.
I'll use it and it works quite nicely with any surface as it is touching it with a little metal pin.
Hi Tom Ive watched this video at least 1000 times my problem occurs when I put in the G92 Z10 the machine does not take it I verified it I put in the G92 and ran M114 it doesnt show vZ10 any ideas ?
I got mine working last night using LJ12A3-4-Z/BX, it probes the bed at 3 points and then starts printing. However, it is adjusting on a 100 x 100 square test print that one side (closest to the Xmin is barely pressed into the bed, to the other side, Xmax where it is pressed into the bed so much that no material is able to come out of the nozzle. I am printing on glass so I am sure that it is flat
What I did to get the sensor to work is I covered the top side of the glass with aluminum DUCT (not duck) tape, then covered that with blue tape. Works out great, but I am not sure if this is just an issue with the repeatability of the sensor not being consistent or what. For example, probe 1 may come down and be at 3.00mm above bed when sensor is triggered, probe 2 may come in at 3.05, probe 3 may come in at 2.98 on a bed that is actually the same distance from the nozzle at all points.
I have even leveled the bed manually, ran a print to make sure it prints fine without the Z-probe then enable the z-probe and try the same print and it craps out like described above.
Not sure what I am doing wrong here.
Using Smoothieboard.
+Chris Leamon I'm also facing the same issue... :(
If you got the solution, please share with me...
I also have the same issue. Any fix?
No, I decided to just level the bed manually.
So you are not using the probe at all?
Nope. I never could get it to work accurately and repeatable. I got me a BLtouch and am in the process of making a mount for it.
Tom, as usual great video. I do have a problem. I am the 9:20 mark in the video and I see that after doing a G28Z followed by a G92Z10, I can't go past 0.00 (get a negative value) in my display so that I can determine the z-offset. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for your video reviews and tips Thomas, they have been extremely useful. Have you any opinion on using the print nozzle as a bed level contact sensor using thin aluminum foil pads adhered to the corners of the glass bed? It seems like this would be a cheap and simple 4-point planar method, assuming that the glass bed is fairly regular. I'm asking as I have the MendelMax 3, which is a great platform except for the horrid bed leveling.
Thanks, that was a great video review. I just received an email from MTW that they are preparing to release an Auto-Bed-Level upgrade kit for MM3 and MiniMax! This is great news, I hope you can contact them and get a review kit for your MM3, Thomas!
Nice explanation wish i were able to see it before setting mine up. One question i hope you can help me with.
Say yesterday i finished a tall print and start my printer today with the z axis high above the build platform my auto bed level routine won't lower my z axis far enough for to trigger the sensor. It lowers say around 10mm then raises again. Im sure its some safety setting somewhere to avoid crashes if something goes wrong but for the life of me i can't find the setting in marlin to fix it.... Would you happen to know which setting i should go change to allow it to continue lowering farther? Thanks
hi, for the best setting
20k on out and 10k on out to gnd?
or
15k on out and 15k on out to gnd?
Hello Thomas
Great video as always,you've helped me out a lot with all your tutorials so thank you for that.
I'm using a Printrbot Simple Metal and very happy with it but I am trying to configure the firmware to enable grid probing as I know my bed is bowed along X (high in middle, low at either end) having mounted a test indicator to the extruder. Two questions:
1. Will advanced auto leveling on a grid compensate for a bowed plate, or does is just calculated a single flat plane as an average of all the points?
2. Is it even possible to enable advanced grid auto leveling on a printrboard? I modified the firmware but when it came to re-flashing I wasn't able to successfully flash to my board. I get an error when trying to load the hexfile into Atmel Flip "address is out of range." The hex file is larger than the other firmware I have loaded in the past, this seems to be significant from what I can gather around the forums but my understanding of firmware is poor to say the least
Regards
Tim
Timothy Bond I was thinking that my bed was bowed the same as yours, until I replaced the bed with a higher quality one, and was getting the same thing (bowed along the X axis--high in the middle). I discovered that it was actually the X carriage horizontal rails that were being bowed by the misalignment of the two vertical Z axis rails :/ You might want to check for that scenario as well.
Hi Tom,
Thanks for the great video. During the vid you made a comment advising that you put gluestick onto the aluminium. Does this work for both PLA & ABS? Does the bed have to be hot or cold? Do you have to remove and wash the bed every few prints?
I currently use gluestick on glass but I want to move to auto bed levelling.
Thanks again
Mike
Hi Tom. I'm a big fan of your videos. Is there a way to test the height of the hotend nozzle (which the printer would lower to for printing) at various locations on the print bed after running a G29? Thanks
Hey Tom, Nice vid, but would a Zebra plate work with this? I believe it has a sheet of copper within the plate itself, but that I'm not sure.
Hi Tom, congratulations on your collaboration to the community ;) your work is very helpful.
I'm having an issue, wonder if someone have had the same, i've bought 2 of those cheap Chinese sensors (LJ12A3-4-Z/BX). It detects at 4mm, all the setup i did is done correctly, the voltage i got with 2x 10k resistors is around 4.4v but that's not an issue i think, I have a MK3 Heatbed, 3mm Aluminium plate, G28 works around 70% of the times, and G29 works around 5% of the times, the nozzle is constantly crashing into the heatbed, I wonder if it's because the aluminium plate is too thin (3mm). i've used a metal ruler which is very thin compared to the heatbed and it triggers the sensor all the times. I've also noticed that if i use blue tape on the heatbed, chances of fail are higher. Any thoughts? Thanks.
Great Video!!!!!
Hello, Thomas. I recently installed on my Prusa i3 an inductive sensor for auto bed leveling. I followed your tutorial on that and managed to get the correct responses from the printing, meaning that the probe provides the printer the correct trigger when encountering a metal object. I also installed a MK3 aluminium bed, that is functioning properly. I am using Repetier Host. My issue is that when I try to home the axes, with G28 XYZ or by clicking the home button in Repetier, the axes go to X=0, Y=0, that is outside the bed and then begin to home Z. I tried using safe homing for Z or manual homing positions for X and Y, but with no luck. Do you know if the issue is with Repetier or with the firmware? Thank you.
Tom if I have a sensor that states 5-60vdc would you try using it at 5v or still go straight to the 12v for a better result?
Great videos by the way all of them
Thanks for the info..
Forum a Creality CR-10s I have to use a pnp or npn? Thanks
Hello Thomas,
I have a question on setting this up with the new mesh bed leveling. I have ordered my probe and will soon be putting this all together. My concern is that bed is slightly warped in that the center is slightly lower ~1mm then the front and back of the bed. it does not appear to be warped in the side to side (x direction).
The mount point for my hictop i3 (aluminum frame) is behind the hot end(+y direction). When setting adjusting its height, will this make a difference?
In the video the head should "just barely" be touching the bed but if this is a slight difference then the z at the sensor will it effect the bed level. if so should I adjust it from center or edge? I am currently using RC8 with manual mesh leveling with great success. Any insight you can give will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
would I be able to do this to my wanhao i3?
if you can find a way to access the control box, I see no reason why not
nevermind... Apparently its quite difficult to reprogram the thing.
Hey, Great videos. I am still having problems, however. I have 2 delta printesr, ( 1 rostock and 1 kossel ) I have them functional, using the Ramps 1.4 + arduino2560 boards with all parts good (endstops hotend thermister etc.) I choose to use a regular endstop (NC) switch with no servo for my probe with at least a 5 mm space for safety. However I have yet to get the m119 to werk with anything. I tried using repetier firmware (BOO that was so buggy it wouldnt compile ) I will stick with Marlin but still no autoleveling.
Great video but i got a little problem with the Height adjustment (the part after the 10 minutes in the video). I can't send the Z-axis below the homing position. Can't get it below zero. Have uncomment the part in Configuration_adv.h as shown but can't get the Z-axis to go lower.
Also after the G92Z10 lowering the Z-axis is not possible.
Any tips/ideas?
Does the proximity sensor constantly take readings during the print or only at the beginning/when you do "auto home"? PS: I'm using the SN04.
Hi Tom I followed the directions here but I have some wrong somewhere when I send a G29 the probe does its measurement but then it just stops there and will not move to next position any ideas ?
+Gary Tonini Same issue
How did you fix it?
Hey Tom
Your info here has been great! However, after setting up the i3x Geeetech to probe with your specs, I have some issues that I hope you OR someone can help with.
-G28 homes the X Y and Z but then sends all the the mid point of the print bed. My home should be X 0 y0 at front left corner.
-After G28 and G29 to home and probe ( which it does work) It ends up stopped at x72
Y 100 and Z0. It will not return to the home front left corner. Also after running G28 G29 I was able to run G92 z10 and lower my nozzle to the proper bed height. However, after placing the offset in marlin it still wont lower to print.
- Now, I can run g28 y g28 x and g28z and it will return to home (front left corner) but it will not lower to the offset of the nozzle.
- I tried a print test and it all worked up to the point of lowering the nozzle. It just air printed.
Any thoughts here??? I really have no more ideas and I can't give up now!
Thanks
JW
Could you use the PiBot Optical Reflection Endstop with a RAMPS 1.4?
Hi! I'm not good writing in English. I can't make the sensor work, the connection are ok but when I seed M119 always return open. I use mks base v1.4. The positive side is connected to the board v+ input, the ground to the ground of the board sensor, and the signal to pin d18 of the mks base
Gutes Video !
Hi Tom...Great tutorial.
I have a question though.....
Got everything working 100%, sensor works, does the auto leveling thing, but when it gets to printing, it does something wierd.
The last probing position the sensor stops at is where it starts to print for some reason. My last probing spot is the left corner of the bed closest to the front of the printer. It stays there while heating the bed and extruder, but starts to print right there.
Help would be appreciated.
Oh, if I remove the auto level command in my software, the printer prints fine. Using Simplify3d with Arduino mega 2560 + Ramps board.
Nice one !! thanks
Could you provide a link to you sensor holder. Thanks for this and all your videos.
Hello tom,
What about the inductive sensor versus a capacitive sensor with a glas print bed surface and pcb MK1? Do you have heard of disadvantages using the capacitive sensor?
Thanks.
Adrian.
... And they are way more expensive...
HI Tom
Could you do a bed Mesh option as well Please ..
@thomas Sanladerer Is this also posible with a Ultimaker 2+?
who is this young man!? a lot changes in 8 years!
I'm trying to implement this on an Ultimaker 2 with 24V rails. Would it be alright to adjust the resistors on the voltage divider (R1=38k, R2=10k) so that the signal output is 5V? Are there any issues with using too high of a resistance?
Really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work!
what type of resistor did you use and what is the wattage etc. etc I just want to know because radioshack is asking when I call to buy some
Thi Tom, Why connect the probe to the 12V? I found that the 8mm inductive probes work just as well using the voltage available at the Z Min postion on Ramps 1.4. The 3 wires are connected to the coressponding -ve (blue), +ve (brown) and signal (black) pins.
Same here . The 4mm version works on 5V as well - LJ12A3-4-Z/BX.
@@asicdathens I tried the exact same version on my ramps 1.4 and it doesn't work, sympton the red led very weak. Measured and output is 5v flat on ramps, triggered or not output 4.54V on signal line
Hi Tom. I followed you great guide and I'm using the 8mm sensor. My problem is that it says that it is always not triggered when I put in M119, but whats wierd is that the light will turn off when metal is near it. What am I doing wrong and how can I fix this. Or am i going to have to buy a different sensor.
what a mistake...i watch your stuff and what you said made my day...you made a whole meaning of configuration file...lol, ty for that...
If I use a capacitive sensor instead of that inductive one you are using, would it not be possible to use a glass bed then?
And is it not better to use a L7805CV instead of that voltage splitter with resistors?
Works fine with my PCB Heatbed MK2. Just need a piece a glass thiner than the 4mm distance of the sensor. You could also try with a 8mm sensor
Hi, how to use inductive sensor to touch a specific place & offset to a desired height offset ? At only one point. Thanks
Hi Thomas,
I also added a probe to my printer a while ago (see my video). Instead of using a inductive probe I used a kapacitive probe.
Is there a reason to go for inductive since kapacitives also work with other materials like glas?
Im using an SN04-N, do I still need to use the voltage divider? can i just not use all 3 pins on the ramps board for the Z Stop min
Hi Tomhow can you edit the code so the hot end is the sensor. E.G. 3 conductive points on the print bed , and when the print nozel makes contact it will use that value.I am thinking of using an opto coupler to isolate the hot end form the control board .
Hey Tom, do you have the STL for your perf board holder at the 4:06 mark?
Hi Thomas,
You should update this with other materials that can be used for detection.
I use 2 sheets of 3mm glass and put in between a sheet of graphite(Graphite Sheet) of 0.2 mm thick and works like a charm even with a 4mm sensing distance inductor.
I also tested with a sheet of stainless steel of 0.1 mm and still works.
Thomas, erstmal vielen Dank für Deine Videos! Die sind auf jeden Fall immer meine erste Infoquelle, wenn ich irgendwas herausfinden will!
Du schreibst zwar in den Kommentaren, dass kapazitive Sensoren weniger zuverlässig sind, wenn ich aber Deinen Ratschlag ignorieren wollte, könnte ich dann einen kapazitiven Sensor nach dieser Anleitung installieren, oder müssen die anders angeschlossen werden?
Ich habe eine 5mm vorgebohrte Glasplatte bestellt, weil ich mir Sorgen mache, dass sich Aluminium viel leichter verbiegt - welche Aluminiumstärke bräuchte ich da? Obwohl ich das Biege-Problem mit der aktuellen 3mm Glasplatte im Grunde wohl auch nur habe, weil das Glas mit Klemmen über einer Heizmatte befestigt ist...
+Thomas Sanladerer Danke für die schnelle Antwort! Für mein 200x300 Bett muss es wohl mindestens 5mm Alu sein - ich überlege mir das alles noch mal, vielleicht komme ich ja dazu, beides zu probieren und zu vergleichen...
Where can I find the printed piece?
tom, i need help, im having real problem with variation of the reading of my inductive sensor with temperature... i use to print ABS, and if i print at 80º i got one z offset, if i print at 105º another... what can i do?
I just got my sensor and wired it up according to instructions. When I use the G28 for homing, the Zed axis homes and then raises 5mm. I have been through the firmware and can't seem to find the solution.
Many thanks in advance!
Adam