Thank you for your explanation, which has solved my confusion for many years.I am a fly rod inspector in Weihai, Shandong , China. Today, I finally understand that my previous doubts make sense.Thank you again.
Hi Peter! It's me again. Some 20+ years ago I asked this question to Mel Krieger during a clinic, here in South America. He looked at me wondering why on earth would you use a different line weight on a fly rod ? I was surprised. Now you answered it. Thanks again.
Thank you for the video charles :) i find that a lot with older anglers on my local highland rivers very set in there ways. A 3wt must be on a 3wt, i fish a DT2 on my 3wt spider rod feels more accurate and comfortable, makes a boring rod a pleasure to cast cheers from highland perthshire scotland.
Great vid Charles....I have a vintage Bamboo Fly rod. Was my Grandfathers. There is no markings or watermarks of any type on it. Its 9 foot with 3 sections. Kind of your typical old flyrod. Its solid, no issues that I can find. I do want to use it for some small stream/creek fishing. My Grandfather had used silk line. So.......I have no idea what weight line to use..any suggestions ?? Thanks!
Old silk lines were rated by diameter rather than weight, so we're going to have estimate. A lot of old bamboo trout rods were in the ballpark of a 5/6/7 weight, especially a 9ft. rod, so I'd start there. It could even be heavier if it was intended for salmon. If you knew what fish he was after with it, that would help. If you knew the old silk rating e.g. HDH we could roughly convert that to AFFTA standard.
To figure out the weight of the rod, put the rod on the edge of a table Supported by books or whatever you find at the grip. Measure from the front of the grip to the tip of the rod. Let’s say for example it was 80”. Now add weight to the tip until the rod tip flexes down 10% of the lenght number. So, on this example it will be 8”. Be as accurate as you possibly can. Now take this weight in grams and divide it by that 10% number from earlier. Let’s say for example it was 20 grams. So, 20/8= 2.5. That is the rod ratio. Now find that number on the table below and that’s your weight. So the example is a 6W. 1.4-1.6 3w 1.6-1.9 4w 1.9-2.2 5w 2.2-2.6 6w 2.6-3.0 7w 3.0-3.5 8w 3.5-4.2 9w 4.2-5.0 10w The method is a bit crude, but i have found it to be very accurate. Just be precise with the measurements.
Right is all about the feel and your casting preference and style. All depends on the type of presentation to the fish as well. My first rod was a7 footer 4 weight very fast rod and I had to putted away for many years cause I didn’t like anymore, then one day I fooled around and set it up with a 7 weight line and now it’s lots of fun throwing wooly burgers and swinging wet flies. People should be more creative when it comes to fly fishing. The game allows it . This the difference between spinning gear and fly fishing. Spinning gear just one way to simple.
Dear Peter, over the past two years I spent the equivalent of 2 G.Loomis fly rods (notably NRX+ not IMX-Pro) on experimenting with fly lines. Your video has inspired me to experiment and become a more effective fly caster using the right line for a specific purpose. I have tested about 3 dozen lines from Rio, Scientific Anglers and Airflo. I have developed a preference for Airflo for a number of reasons, mainly because PU is the material with a number of small advantages over PVC. One question though remains open and is currently subject to a long term testing phase - are Airflo lines made from PU more durable than PVC lines (which are not treated with coating after each fishing day. Do you have experience to better data on the durability of Airflo lines (ideally in fishing days) or do you know anyone who has?
PUR lines are definitely more durable than PVC lines as PUR does not require plasticizers. No matter how well made a PVC line is, the plasticizers will eventually leech out and the line will crack. Some of my Airflo cold water salt lines are over 15 years old and I still use them for striped bass. I've only ever had problems with the Type 7 and Type 9 lines deteriorating after 10 years or so. The intermediates are still going.
@@hooked4lifeca Dear Peter, thank you for your swift response. I have used an SA Mastery PVC line which (not being treated with regular Loon Line Speed including the UV-screen) did develop multiple visible cracks after approx 30 fishing days under the intense alpine sun. As a consequence this floating line converted into a hover line. I do understand that the PUR lines come with a UV-impermeable coating. 10 years or more sound encouraging and not having to treat the line after each fishing day is surely a plus
I have 80ft of 5wt line on my reel. This is my only fly rod so I put just about every type of fly on when I’m trout fishing. Do you think I could go with 90ft of 4wt line?
Great video - So if I use a 7 WT streamer rod mostly at short distances, often roll casting at short/mid distances with a bit a difficulty, do you think going with an 8WT/9WT line would be beneficial as far as increasing power?
A heavier line would definitely help, but also the front taper of the line has a bearing as well. A 7 wt. line with a long front taper will roll cast quite well. Short front tapered lines, not as easily.
Sometimes the rod producer has a very strange idea of line classes. I had two Sage Foundation rods, a "5wt" and an "8wt", and I couldn't get the "5wt" to cast at all with a 5wt line. It did WAY better with an 8wt line, though it was a tad too heavy for it, my guess is that a 7wt would have been perfect.The 8wt was ok with a sinking 8wt line but for the floating line I had to go a couple of grams heavier.
As a casting instructor I had the opportunity to cast many brands and models of fly rods. While most were fairly accurate in their ratings and would cast their rated line weight, a few were off and a handful were so ridiculous, I wondered what the maker was smoking. Since I'm Loomis pro staff I won't mention brands, except to say that Loomis rods were usually quite consistent in both line weights and model characteristics.
You've made a video about how not to get hung up on line weight when matching lines to rods but then only tested lines half and one weight up from the natural weight. Many reels will have 3/4 4/5 or even 3/4/5 as the newer hardy models. Very strange information, confused me more trying to figure out your logic
Thank you for your explanation, which has solved my confusion for many years.I am a fly rod inspector in Weihai, Shandong , China. Today, I finally understand that my previous doubts make sense.Thank you again.
Answered my question without even asking. Thank you.
Hi Peter! It's me again. Some 20+ years ago I asked this question to Mel Krieger during a clinic, here in South America. He looked at me wondering why on earth would you use a different line weight on a fly rod ? I was surprised. Now you answered it. Thanks again.
Ya, it pays not to take the line ratings too literally.
Awesome to know, I've been looking at getting a 6wt rod to do some small mouths/pan fish/ect. and still be able to go for bass, steelhead
Thank you for this overview. Much appreciated.
Thank you for the video charles :) i find that a lot with older anglers on my local highland rivers very set in there ways. A 3wt must be on a 3wt, i fish a DT2 on my 3wt spider rod feels more accurate and comfortable, makes a boring rod a pleasure to cast cheers from highland perthshire scotland.
Your a great help Peter, thank you.
Good to know. Thank you!
you have a clearer minded, many thanks!
Nice video👍 love fishing🎣
All my rods have 1 wt heavier line (e.g. 2/3, 4/5, 5/6 and 9/10) cuz I like the loading influence.
Great vid Charles....I have a vintage Bamboo Fly rod. Was my Grandfathers. There is no markings or watermarks of any type on it. Its 9 foot with 3 sections. Kind of your typical old flyrod. Its solid, no issues that I can find. I do want to use it for some small stream/creek fishing. My Grandfather had used silk line. So.......I have no idea what weight line to use..any suggestions ??
Thanks!
Old silk lines were rated by diameter rather than weight, so we're going to have estimate. A lot of old bamboo trout rods were in the ballpark of a 5/6/7 weight, especially a 9ft. rod, so I'd start there. It could even be heavier if it was intended for salmon. If you knew what fish he was after with it, that would help.
If you knew the old silk rating e.g. HDH we could roughly convert that to AFFTA standard.
To figure out the weight of the rod, put the rod on the edge of a table Supported by books or whatever you find at the grip. Measure from the front of the grip to the tip of the rod. Let’s say for example it was 80”. Now add weight to the tip until the rod tip flexes down 10% of the lenght number. So, on this example it will be 8”. Be as accurate as you possibly can.
Now take this weight in grams and divide it by that 10% number from earlier. Let’s say for example it was 20 grams.
So, 20/8= 2.5. That is the rod ratio. Now find that number on the table below and that’s your weight. So the example is a 6W.
1.4-1.6 3w
1.6-1.9 4w
1.9-2.2 5w
2.2-2.6 6w
2.6-3.0 7w
3.0-3.5 8w
3.5-4.2 9w
4.2-5.0 10w
The method is a bit crude, but i have found it to be very accurate. Just be precise with the measurements.
Right is all about the feel and your casting preference and style. All depends on the type of presentation to the fish as well. My first rod was a7 footer 4 weight very fast rod and I had to putted away for many years cause I didn’t like anymore, then one day I fooled around and set it up with a 7 weight line and now it’s lots of fun throwing wooly burgers and swinging wet flies. People should be more creative when it comes to fly fishing. The game allows it . This the difference between spinning gear and fly fishing. Spinning gear just one way to simple.
Dear Peter, over the past two years I spent the equivalent of 2 G.Loomis fly rods (notably NRX+ not IMX-Pro) on experimenting with fly lines. Your video has inspired me to experiment and become a more effective fly caster using the right line for a specific purpose. I have tested about 3 dozen lines from Rio, Scientific Anglers and Airflo. I have developed a preference for Airflo for a number of reasons, mainly because PU is the material with a number of small advantages over PVC. One question though remains open and is currently subject to a long term testing phase - are Airflo lines made from PU more durable than PVC lines (which are not treated with coating after each fishing day. Do you have experience to better data on the durability of Airflo lines (ideally in fishing days) or do you know anyone who has?
PUR lines are definitely more durable than PVC lines as PUR does not require plasticizers. No matter how well made a PVC line is, the plasticizers will eventually leech out and the line will crack. Some of my Airflo cold water salt lines are over 15 years old and I still use them for striped bass. I've only ever had problems with the Type 7 and Type 9 lines deteriorating after 10 years or so. The intermediates are still going.
@@hooked4lifeca Dear Peter, thank you for your swift response. I have used an SA Mastery PVC line which (not being treated with regular Loon Line Speed including the UV-screen) did develop multiple visible cracks after approx 30 fishing days under the intense alpine sun. As a consequence this floating line converted into a hover line. I do understand that the PUR lines come with a UV-impermeable coating. 10 years or more sound encouraging and not having to treat the line after each fishing day is surely a plus
I have 80ft of 5wt line on my reel. This is my only fly rod so I put just about every type of fly on when I’m trout fishing. Do you think I could go with 90ft of 4wt line?
Depends on the length of the head of the line, but it should not be a problem.
Good video thank you!
Very interessting !!! Thanks a lot👌🏻
Great video - So if I use a 7 WT streamer rod mostly at short distances, often roll casting at short/mid distances with a bit a difficulty, do you think going with an 8WT/9WT line would be beneficial as far as increasing power?
A heavier line would definitely help, but also the front taper of the line has a bearing as well. A 7 wt. line with a long front taper will roll cast quite well. Short front tapered lines, not as easily.
I think I needed to hear this, haha.
Lots of dogma in fly fishing
Sometimes the rod producer has a very strange idea of line classes. I had two Sage Foundation rods, a "5wt" and an "8wt", and I couldn't get the "5wt" to cast at all with a 5wt line. It did WAY better with an 8wt line, though it was a tad too heavy for it, my guess is that a 7wt would have been perfect.The 8wt was ok with a sinking 8wt line but for the floating line I had to go a couple of grams heavier.
As a casting instructor I had the opportunity to cast many brands and models of fly rods. While most were fairly accurate in their ratings and would cast their rated line weight, a few were off and a handful were so ridiculous, I wondered what the maker was smoking. Since I'm Loomis pro staff I won't mention brands, except to say that Loomis rods were usually quite consistent in both line weights and model characteristics.
Can I put a 9 weight line on a 10 weight rod?
Yes, but our casting for distance will suffer. It'll mostly be a short to mid range solution.
You've made a video about how not to get hung up on line weight when matching lines to rods but then only tested lines half and one weight up from the natural weight. Many reels will have 3/4 4/5 or even 3/4/5 as the newer hardy models. Very strange information, confused me more trying to figure out your logic
.....did....did you not hear him put his 400+ grain shooting head on his 4 wt? I think thats more then one to a half size difference.
good vid a little to deep for me but good