Its good to see another guy from alabama doing this. Im a begginer woodworker and have just purchased the 10watt xtool d1. Needed a way to personalize things I build. We head out your way usually once a year to get peaches. Your videos are alot more helpful than the "professional youtubers" who often want to sell you something.
Those boards turned out so awesome!! Thanks for showing us how you achieve such nice pieces!! I really wish I had an actual shop to build beautiful pieces like that!! Starting to get cold here (in Michigan) so very little time to work outside left!!
Do you feel the charcuterie boards should have a deep engrave or your customers want a barely there type of engrave. I feel if the engrave is deeper, then it will be harder for them to clean. Your thought please. Thank you. I like lining it because it’s less intrusive on the board but other like the look of the fill.
Most folks want it to look engraved, the vast majority of the ones that I make are decorative only. The ones that do want them to use are told to keep them clean and treat with butcher block oils.
This is so helpful. My husband and I are trying to start a side business with xtool D1 and cutting boards too. I need a way to support my crafting habit... if you are ever in the Huntsville area let me know. I'd love to meet you!
What did you mean when you said you didn't put the air assist all the way up? I didn't know you can change the pressure on it. On mine it's just have a power on button but no control knob.
Great video man! I just ordered the 20w D1 and I can’t wait to see what it can do! One suggestion I had is maybe making a template of the charcuterie board and then (if you have one) use a router table with a flush trim bit, cut close to the line on the bandsaw, and then clean it up with the router and template. I usually do it that way and always get good results! Just might be easier than fighting with the scroll saw! Awesome work you do and I look forward to more videos!
Not sure I would enjoy fighting the router either. These hardwoods are around 3/4 inch thick. One day, I may have a CNC router. This approach isn’t bad for now
That's exactly what I do with my charcuterie boards, just_Fritzy. I used my D1 to cut out a template using some of that 1/4" hardboard (available from big box stores). Then, after I cut the wood to rough size, I use double-sided tape to attach the template to the router, grab a flush trim bit, and shape the wood to the exact, precise size I desired. Using the template really makes sanding those curves a TON easier! One tip: If you find that your flush trim bit sticks out a little beyond your template, get some bench cookies and slide them underneath the template. My bench cookies have textured material on each side, so the wood doesn't slide around. I've found that customers really appreciate when I take a 1/8" or 1/4" roundover bit and "ease" the sharp edges of the finger holes, too. It takes longer to explain what I'm doing than to actually do it. Oh, and I also use a spindle sander, if necessary on the inside curves. Thanks for sharing your tips. I think we all get better when we share our secrets and successes with one another. It does NO GOOD to keep all the information a secret! ~~Dr. Larry S. Anderson • Tupelo, MS (birthplace of Elvis)
That's exactly what I thought (Only because I have seen other people on TH-cam do it). Seems like a super cool and easy way to utilize a laser cutter, but not if you do not own a router table. I have also seen people cut through 3/4" thick material in 2 passes with the 20w, but then you would really need a spindle sander for all the char.
@@TheClackShack What you would do is take your bandsaw and/or scroll saw and cut just outside your line and then use the router with a pilot bit. Given the volume that you seem to be doing a router table would be worth the investment. and make template routing safe. Great video btw.
Was thinking a spindle sander would be just in order for this project. Also concur with just-Fritzy comment about using router table. Started to say why the catering outfits want the boards but got sidetracked. Why do they them?
My understanding is they will use them in the setup for the client and then donate them as a gift. I also have another company that has their logo on several of their boards they setup just to make it look fancy..
Hi, enjoying the channel as i'm new to this, what would you recommend as a finisher for normal drinks coaster in terms of oil or wax to give products some pop?
Price ranges from $25 up depending on species of wood and complexity of engrave. Custom designs also cost more due to my design time. Base price for common woods is 25. Every market is different, your price may be higher or lower depending on the supply and demand. Being able to make custom unique pieces is where I operate. I can’t compete with the $10 hobby lobby pieces and don’t try.
I need insight. I have tried using cold galvanized compound on stainless steel tumblers and have not had any success. Tried a few times and most of the engraving wipes right off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
Are you using the same computer to run Both the 10w and 20w machines? If so, how do you run multiple instances of your software? AND shouldn't you remove the cord to level out the material, I see it is raised on the handle side a good 2 to 3 mm or more.
I run up to 5 machines at a time with my PC. Just relaunch from the dektop and select the machine. Removing the cord is an option, I didn't see where it hurt the engrave. I usually don't have them on there. Multitasking with a camera adds a challenge. Sometimes I also forget to focus.
Hi we bought our xtool d1 been using it for 3 weeks but this week we sre surprised that the charcuterie boards that we had came out the there are big parts that light burn. Is there a problem with the machine or wrong setting or its nothing we can do?
Great video. Quick question. Do you ever have concern with the xtool outside in the shack in the heat of the summer. I live in FL and would love to use it in the garage but have concerns storing it in the heat.
Only that I sweat a lot. It doesn’t get hot enough to damage components. Think about it, your car stereo can survive 8 hours in your car while in a parking lot. Basically the same components. Of course when operating, it needs to be cooled but if I can handle the heat, it should be ok.
I am surprised you don't have a CNC...It would save you hours of time. Probably pay for itself in a rather short time. I see someone commented and you replied. One comment....been making and selling cutting boards for years. All finishes are food safe once they dry so suspect you do't have much to worry about Look it up. Also the University of Wisc did a study on wooden cutting boards vs plastic and found that wood does not harbor bacteria. You can look that up also.Good videos. I do have a question tho'. Do you have one computer for both lasers or one for each.
@@TheClackShack I bought a Onefinity Woodworker X50 which needs a table of about 55" square to be comfortable. I then bought a diode laser and didn't know where to put it. Decided to put it on the CNC router table and then built an enclosure to go over the 2. So I can use only one tool at a time, but that's OK. Enclosure provides some sound protection for the CNC and smoke and eye protection for the laser. I've seen others put the CNC on floor casters so they could roll it under a work table. Other people hang them on the wall so they are used vertically. Maybe in your case the Shaper Origin would work? They are basically the size of a 3 HP router.
You can make a line down to about 0.1mm and the depth is dependant on the hardness of the material and the power, speed and pass settings. I regularly engrave 1/8 inch deep on oak. With a natural material, parts of the burn will be deeper than others based on grain.
My best clients are realtors. I sell 30+ large charcuterie boards a month for realtors to give as closing gifts. 12x24 @$125 each. Just a marketing thought.
@@TheClackShack , I went ahead and added the d1 pro to the mix. I started with the 10w d1 so now have two lasers running to keep up. But I am making my boards out of multiple species. I have different styles/sizes and price points but the large charcuterie is by far the most popular.
Over on Maymays chanel her subscibers have a name we are called the Made its...I have noticed you have a lot of subcribers now maybe we should have a Clactical name Loving your vidieos very informative and love all the animals stopping in to say hello
Whatever happened to handmade? Anyone can use a CNC router to cut and carve a piece of wood into any number of shapes. I prefer the look of a hand made product.
So you take a log and mill your own wood too? Anyone can buy lumber at a store. I prefer using lumber I make from my sawmill. That’s the cool thing about preference, we can all have them. I make stuff many different ways.
Its good to see another guy from alabama doing this. Im a begginer woodworker and have just purchased the 10watt xtool d1. Needed a way to personalize things I build.
We head out your way usually once a year to get peaches.
Your videos are alot more helpful than the "professional youtubers" who often want to sell you something.
Thanks. Just a regular guy and a shop here….
Drum sander is such a great tool. Bought years back. Saves so much time and makes better out come.
I have a planer and spindle sander. I get the look I want, I am out of space
@TheClackShack Me too! Can't getmy wife convinced of a Big metal building. Lol.
That is just simply a unique product
Thanks..
Even you don't take the credit, man you are a true carpenter..
Thanks...
I like the videos where you show the steps is very helpful! Thanks!
Glad you like it. Thanks..
Those boards turned out so awesome!! Thanks for showing us how you achieve such nice pieces!! I really wish I had an actual shop to build beautiful pieces like that!! Starting to get cold here (in Michigan) so very little time to work outside left!!
2 years ago, I didn’t have it…
Nice video man! The charcuterie boards turned out looking good.
Thanks…
Thanks you are really helpful and detailed..
You are welcome!
Do you feel the charcuterie boards should have a deep engrave or your customers want a barely there type of engrave. I feel if the engrave is deeper, then it will be harder for them to clean. Your thought please. Thank you. I like lining it because it’s less intrusive on the board but other like the look of the fill.
Most folks want it to look engraved, the vast majority of the ones that I make are decorative only. The ones that do want them to use are told to keep them clean and treat with butcher block oils.
Beautiful!!!
Thanks
Have you tried cutting or engraving cedar with the D1 20?
I have done a lot of cedar. I mill it thin for lasers
This is so helpful. My husband and I are trying to start a side business with xtool D1 and cutting boards too. I need a way to support my crafting habit... if you are ever in the Huntsville area let me know. I'd love to meet you!
Glad it helps. That’s how it started for me as well. My hobby is still growing.
What did you mean when you said you didn't put the air assist all the way up? I didn't know you can change the pressure on it. On mine it's just have a power on button but no control knob.
This one has a variable speed control on the pump.
Once the board has been laser etched, is it only food safe if you apply that mineral oil?
Food safe basically means it isn’t poisonous by using chemicals. To truly be food safe, it has to be clean and free of chemicals
Great video man! I just ordered the 20w D1 and I can’t wait to see what it can do! One suggestion I had is maybe making a template of the charcuterie board and then (if you have one) use a router table with a flush trim bit, cut close to the line on the bandsaw, and then clean it up with the router and template. I usually do it that way and always get good results! Just might be easier than fighting with the scroll saw! Awesome work you do and I look forward to more videos!
Not sure I would enjoy fighting the router either. These hardwoods are around 3/4 inch thick. One day, I may have a CNC router. This approach isn’t bad for now
That's exactly what I do with my charcuterie boards, just_Fritzy. I used my D1 to cut out a template using some of that 1/4" hardboard (available from big box stores). Then, after I cut the wood to rough size, I use double-sided tape to attach the template to the router, grab a flush trim bit, and shape the wood to the exact, precise size I desired. Using the template really makes sanding those curves a TON easier!
One tip: If you find that your flush trim bit sticks out a little beyond your template, get some bench cookies and slide them underneath the template. My bench cookies have textured material on each side, so the wood doesn't slide around. I've found that customers really appreciate when I take a 1/8" or 1/4" roundover bit and "ease" the sharp edges of the finger holes, too.
It takes longer to explain what I'm doing than to actually do it. Oh, and I also use a spindle sander, if necessary on the inside curves.
Thanks for sharing your tips. I think we all get better when we share our secrets and successes with one another. It does NO GOOD to keep all the information a secret!
~~Dr. Larry S. Anderson • Tupelo, MS (birthplace of Elvis)
That's exactly what I thought (Only because I have seen other people on TH-cam do it). Seems like a super cool and easy way to utilize a laser cutter, but not if you do not own a router table. I have also seen people cut through 3/4" thick material in 2 passes with the 20w, but then you would really need a spindle sander for all the char.
@@TheClackShack What you would do is take your bandsaw and/or scroll saw and cut just outside your line and then use the router with a pilot bit. Given the volume that you seem to be doing a router table would be worth the investment. and make template routing safe. Great video btw.
@@edhiestand1197 I have a router table but I am not skilled enough to use a flat bit to smooth the edges. I just need a spindle sander.
Nice very Nice!
Thanks!
Are you able to run multiple Lightburn jobs at the same time? Another great video!
Yes, I have tested 4 machines running at the same time. I run 2 at a time most days.
Fyi, there's beetle holes in that oak that will fill up with food particles. I'd try to fill those somehow.
It would need waxing if it was for actual cutting board.
Was thinking a spindle sander would be just in order for this project. Also concur with just-Fritzy comment about using router table. Started to say why the catering outfits want the boards but got sidetracked. Why do they them?
My understanding is they will use them in the setup for the client and then donate them as a gift. I also have another company that has their logo on several of their boards they setup just to make it look fancy..
Thank you informative
Glad it was helpful!
How do you do the framing without pushing the button on the machine. That would be very helpful to me.
I use lightburn, just click frame
Thank you for the quick response.@@TheClackShack
Hi, enjoying the channel as i'm new to this, what would you recommend as a finisher for normal drinks coaster in terms of oil or wax to give products some pop?
some type of clear coat. I use polycrylic or polyurethane
Would you mind sharing what you are getting for the products in the video? Thanks.
Price ranges from $25 up depending on species of wood and complexity of engrave. Custom designs also cost more due to my design time. Base price for common woods is 25.
Every market is different, your price may be higher or lower depending on the supply and demand. Being able to make custom unique pieces is where I operate. I can’t compete with the $10 hobby lobby pieces and don’t try.
How does Bamboo engrave? Settings similar to the red oak?
No, it is different. Power is similar but look is way different
@@TheClackShack Different look? Lighter?
@@bradbrown2168 th-cam.com/video/igBWlHpm3tw/w-d-xo.html
How long do you let a log from the yard dry out before you use it?
They are best milled as soon as the hit the ground
What are you using as a bed for the laser? Do you think honeycomb is unnecessary? I subscribed to your channel!
I use a honeycomb. If you are cutting, a honeycomb is very helpful. engraving, it doesnt matter
I need insight. I have tried using cold galvanized compound on stainless steel tumblers and have not had any success. Tried a few times and most of the engraving wipes right off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance
I use cermark and have never used cold galvanizing spray. I love the results I get with the marking spray. Sorry
How large is your workspace with your laser? What laser is this?
430x400 on the D1
@@TheClackShack what is the name of the laser please
@@waterlilly62lori It should be in the title, XTool D1
@@TheClackShack I'm sorry. It was
Do you have an on-line store to purchase? I only saw files on Etsy. I am not local but love them.
Currently no, I just sell my finished products locally. Maybe in the future.
Are you using the same computer to run Both the 10w and 20w machines? If so, how do you run multiple instances of your software? AND shouldn't you remove the cord to level out the material, I see it is raised on the handle side a good 2 to 3 mm or more.
I run up to 5 machines at a time with my PC. Just relaunch from the dektop and select the machine. Removing the cord is an option, I didn't see where it hurt the engrave. I usually don't have them on there. Multitasking with a camera adds a challenge. Sometimes I also forget to focus.
What settings would you use with a xtool d1 with a 10 watt with acacia wood
It all depends on how deep you want it to engrave. Lots of variables
Hi we bought our xtool d1 been using it for 3 weeks but this week we sre surprised that the charcuterie boards that we had came out the there are big parts that light burn. Is there a problem with the machine or wrong setting or its nothing we can do?
Not sure I understand what you meant. If the wood is trying to burn, speed up or add air assist.
What x tool do you have for your noodle boards
I now use an Atzer V35. This video was last year
Great video. Quick question. Do you ever have concern with the xtool outside in the shack in the heat of the summer. I live in FL and would love to use it in the garage but have concerns storing it in the heat.
Only that I sweat a lot. It doesn’t get hot enough to damage components. Think about it, your car stereo can survive 8 hours in your car while in a parking lot. Basically the same components. Of course when operating, it needs to be cooled but if I can handle the heat, it should be ok.
@@TheClackShack Great points. Thank you
I am surprised you don't have a CNC...It would save you hours of time. Probably pay for itself in a rather short time. I see someone commented and you replied. One comment....been making and selling cutting boards for years. All finishes are food safe once they dry so suspect you do't have much to worry about Look it up. Also the University of Wisc did a study on wooden cutting boards vs plastic and found that wood does not harbor bacteria. You can look that up also.Good videos. I do have a question tho'. Do you have one computer for both lasers or one for each.
Nowhere to put one, I have considered it but until I get more room, I can’t.
What kind of sawmill do you have?
Woodmizer Lx25
Have you considered getting a CNC router to help with those cuts?
Considered, yes. Can’t figure out where it would fit….crowded
@@TheClackShack I bought a Onefinity Woodworker X50 which needs a table of about 55" square to be comfortable. I then bought a diode laser and didn't know where to put it. Decided to put it on the CNC router table and then built an enclosure to go over the 2. So I can use only one tool at a time, but that's OK. Enclosure provides some sound protection for the CNC and smoke and eye protection for the laser.
I've seen others put the CNC on floor casters so they could roll it under a work table. Other people hang them on the wall so they are used vertically.
Maybe in your case the Shaper Origin would work? They are basically the size of a 3 HP router.
Have you tried walnut oil?
I haven’t, I have used mineral oil and a bees wax based stuff.
can you tell me if you can make a line width .013' and .050" deep
You can make a line down to about 0.1mm and the depth is dependant on the hardness of the material and the power, speed and pass settings. I regularly engrave 1/8 inch deep on oak. With a natural material, parts of the burn will be deeper than others based on grain.
My best clients are realtors. I sell 30+ large charcuterie boards a month for realtors to give as closing gifts. 12x24 @$125 each.
Just a marketing thought.
Yea, I have turned down a few due to my current work load.
@@TheClackShack , I went ahead and added the d1 pro to the mix. I started with the 10w d1 so now have two lasers running to keep up. But I am making my boards out of multiple species. I have different styles/sizes and price points but the large charcuterie is by far the most popular.
Over on Maymays chanel her subscibers have a name we are called the Made its...I have noticed you have a lot of subcribers now maybe we should have a Clactical name Loving your vidieos very informative and love all the animals stopping in to say hello
Maybe I should come up with a name for the community...
Well..my next rabbit hole lol
Yep
are you using a gopro to film with?
No, I have but only secondary views.
@@TheClackShack well if you dont mind what camera do you use to film with sir?
Why don’t you just use a thinner blade on your band saw that will cut curves?
Didn’t want to go that route…
Do you use the same laptop for both lasers?
Yes, I run up to 4 machines simultaneously.
Cool, thanks I thought I was going to have to buy another laptop.
You need a cnc wood router. It will drill the hole and cut out the board for you. ;-)
I would love to but I am out of space....and money..
If she stole it I’m sure it’s her first offense…
She has been at it for years....almost 30 years...lol
Itysm
No problem..
Whatever happened to handmade? Anyone can use a CNC router to cut and carve a piece of wood into any number of shapes. I prefer the look of a hand made product.
So you take a log and mill your own wood too? Anyone can buy lumber at a store. I prefer using lumber I make from my sawmill. That’s the cool thing about preference, we can all have them. I make stuff many different ways.