I have a couple of belt line pins holes. I can access back side totally to clean up the corrosion issue. This will work. Best solution yet. First time viewer to boot!
That IS a good repair! Just got my ‘55 Nomad body back from the sandblaster. I have rust through on the passenger side drip rail and researching repair methods (other than cutting out a section and trying to weld in a patch).
@@johnkelly6942 thanks! It should work in that application well! I’ve repaired numerous pinholes with much success as long as the blind side is coated after the repair it should last for a very long time.
Glaze only goes on top of primer, not direct to metal. Body filler goes direct to metal for those that dont know. Thanks for the leading tutorial. Sweet video man.
I usually use a 3M number 801 two part professional glaze that bonds to: primer, metal, fiberglass, and aluminum. Thanks for the suggestion. Sorry about not including the glaze type in the video.
Outstanding. I think you're a natural teacher. I am definitely gonna add this method to my bag of tricks. This video makes me confident that I can do it too.
I need to repair some small screw holes and a few Mig Welding seams on a car I'm working on. Never used lead before and watched a few YT videos on the technique. Yours is the best one and was very helpful to me. The result you got here was amazing. I hope mine looks as good as yours. Thank you
Ford Fan Thank you for that. You most definitely can repair screw holes with this method and the weld seam as well. I suggest a good quality direct to metal epoxy primer over it. Thanks again!
I’m glad it worked and appreciate the feedback! Someone had asked would this technique work on a gas tank hole and now I have a definitive answer, “yes it will “! Thank you!
@Gill Rod Shop no problem. Whoever asked you, just tell them to make sure they cleaned out any fuel/fume from the inside the tank, that way it doesn't explode
Thanks a lot Gill. My 70s Challenger has holes someone drilled in and this repair is perfect. I have been grinding out ALL BONDO and going to bare metal in all the flawed and damaged areas.
Great tutorial on leading, the time I tried I was obviously using too much heat as it looked like all you used was just enough to get a good fast melt on the lead before paddling it into the holes and flattening it. If I ever get the chance to do that again, I'll remember this!
Excellent video. I have a motorcycle tank and I had a real hard time getting the solder to stick with flux and a torch but I think the tinning paste is really what's gonna help me here.
Got a bunch of rivet holes where the trim around short vinyl top was secured. Getting rid of vinyl so thinking about this to fill rivet holes. Great video. Thanks
I have done body work in high-school. I am interested as I have my own restoration project. But I am not a body man. Its interesting to see the techniques and when I work with a shop I understand what they are doing. Thanks for the vid. Well done.
Thank you for the video. I am restoring a 1970 Dodge Charger and the rear window area has lots of rust holes. I was planning on cutting out the rusty areas and patching in metal but this may be a better way. So often, even careful use of the MIG can result in burning through areas that are super thin. You start by trying to close up a tiny hole and end up making several larger holes that require more and more welding.
Awesome! Have exactly the same holes that I need filling. Most shops want to weld in a patch for a few hundred bucks. Glad I found this video. Thanks in advance.
Solid job.. i mig my holes and like you suggested.. rust encapsulate the backside.. ive really grown fond of the body solder technique.. kind of a dying art.. i think u might have coaxed me into buying a kit!
I only mig weld when joining two sheets together. This method will be utilized next job. Ill tack with mig and seem up with lead. realy cool vid fella! subbed.
Thanks Gill. Just been in the depths of my garage storage space and found a body solder kit I bought quite some years ago. The solder is lead based, but I guess the solder you're using in the video is non leaded as you're sanding it . is that correct? Cheers John.
thelonegroover I don't want to tell you wrong so I copied and pasted from Eastwood.com below. Eastwood's Basic Body Solder Kit helps you complete small leading jobs with better adhesion, strength and durability than plastic fillers Spreadable (plastic) range is 361-489 degreesF Includes tools and accessories 30/70 lead-based body solder is slightly easier to work with than our lead-free solder, and provides better adhesion, strength and overall durability than plastic fillers. Includes 2 lbs. of solder for small solder jobs." "
I have some nasty rust that's created holes and thinned out a fist sized area of my old Toyota's tailgate that I'll be attacking this week. Would LOVE to beef up the area and fix the holes without using body filler. Just got a new cylinder of C25 for my mig too (would love to solder but I can dial back the mig and use thin wire which I already have), so I'm happy I came across your video!
Great to see the old method for filling holes on panels. That lead won't go anywhere, like you say - far better than fillers. We vsll that technique 'lead loading' in the UK. One question - can you use this method on holes in flatter panels ? I am just thinking applying heat to one area on a flatter panel may cause distortion of the metal ?
Chris Ward thanks for watching and commenting! You should be fine as long as you heat the area around it evenly. The heat isn’t so bad but uneven heating/cooling is what warps panels. I’ve had car bodies baked and dipped in acid to strip the old body lead, fillers, and paint from them and they turn the oven up to 800 degrees F. 🙂
thanks for making this video - i need to do this on my vanagon window. never done it before, but this video is a great 'how to' that gives me some confidence to give it a go!!
I have a 70 Camaro that was body worked and repainted I assume in the late 80s early 90s most all the filler shows cracks in it from age or deterioration.. The factory lead that connects the sail panel from the roof to the quarter is still perfect. Speaks highly of a repair like this...This cant be any worse for you health wise than all the chemicals in modern paints and primers just be cautious and use PPE.
Excellent job! Would love to try this method. Not sure I can get lot on Canada but will sure look into it! Old school was always the best fix! Thanks for sharing!!
Vicki k Gibson Thanks, I usually would not do a hole that large but I thought I'd give it a shot and it's held so far and I'm sure it'll work the same for you. Good luck on your project and stay tuned to my channel to see a weld in panel repair in the near future. Thanks much.
That repair looked great when you were done, I was thinking you could just primer and paint it now, but perhaps a little glaze never hurt for the hidden low spots
Fat T it's definitely easier than welding that thin metal but just remember not to apply too much heat when applying the body solder and you'll do just fine. Thanks
@@gillrodshop I'm totally trying this on a test piece first... so the steps are, clean metal really well (40 grit etc), apply tinning agent, flux (zinc chloriode) , hit with lead, then wash with water/baking soda to neutralize the acids in flux?
@@mikep509 Yes, sounds like you have it! You may want to get the metal as bright as possible by using a low speed wire brush chucked to a drill motor then scuff the area around it where you want the lead to feather with the metal, scuff/sand with a course grit (80-120) for a smoother transition around the edge. Then you may go to a 220 grit and it should look almost seamless. I’ve also published a video of me doing a Z28 T-Top area that may help. Thanks!
Great video. Can a repair done with the lead stick be chromed? I am looking for a way to patch a few holes in an 80's motorcycle muffler as they are no longer available for the restoration. Thank you!
VMX anything that is conducive can be chromed. Plastic and other poor conductors can be chromed also, but the process is different! I spoke with a chrome plater today and he said he can chrome over tin/lead filler. Send a picture of the area on the muffler that you're repairing and maybe I can offer some advice. Thanks
I have a pin hole issue near the bottom passenger side corner of my windshield on a Chevy pickup I’m fixing up. I don’t intend for a show quality truck just something I can drive and enjoy. I can’t access the back of the area. Would you still advise using this method if I can’t use rust inhibitor on the back side of the surface area I’m working on?
The window doglegs usually rust from the outside in but if it rusted from the inside out I would want to find the source of moisture and address that first. You should be able to use this method with success on pinholes in window frames. Thanks 😊
Lead sticks to the tin but I’ve had problems tinning aluminum. The short answer is no, I haven’t been able to make it stick to aluminum. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice way of doing it, but please tell how does the two different matals work when expanded/shrinked from heat/cold over time? My first tought was why not just weld it? Thanks
Frili Me I've welded a lot of patch panels but this is about not welding. Lead has been installed in millions of factory cars but not many people still use it anymore. As long as the temperature doesn't reach the melting point of the lead it should be okay. Thanks for the observation.
Im a painter myself, never done lead. Im just curious how long that would last or if it would cause ANY issues down the road. I would try to weld when I could but I certainly see the time savings here and how easy it is.
This method is quicker and can be done at a lower temperature. From my experience the mig would make this hole 3 times the size before it would start filling in. Also, no need to worry that much about warping due to the low temperature. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I’ve never tried it but it should work if the plug is larger than the hole and placed on the backside and lead on top. I have tacked welded a plug and then use lead body filler over it! Thanks!
Not that I know what am I talking about but why not using aluminum insted of lead? Im just asking because of health reasons. Nice work btw. Thanks for sharing.
No need for backing plate? The lead won’t flow into the other side? I’m planning to use this on bottom of my car door it has small rust holes. Thank you
No need for a backing plate if the hole is small. This video that I’ve linked below shows a blind hole done on a T-top pillar and what the lead looks like from the backside once it’s done. You have to use the proper heat and not over heat it though. Thanks for watching and commenting! th-cam.com/video/ur-etZqrnXk/w-d-xo.html
@Gill Rod Shop perfect thank you so much, Eastwood has the smallest kit on back order until January but at least now I have a better alternative thank you!
I'm repairing rust holes in a child's wagon. The wagon was sandblasted and epoxy primered. Do I have to sand or grind the epoxy off to bare metal to solder the holes?
Yes, you will have to take it back to bare metal and tin it before soldering. Being that the wagon is just a single panel without a sub panel behind it the repair work will be visible from the inside.
No, as long as the heat is applied evenly and it’s allowed to cool slowly. Warping happens primarily during the cool cycle. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@gillrodshop Bro, do you know any alternatives to the Eastwood brand? I can't find any retailers in Canada that sell this product, and it will cost me over $100 CAD to purchase directly from Eastwood.
@@p.stroker8920 I don’t know of any. You are the second person that can’t find any Eastwood vendors in Canada. If you find someone there that sells it, please post. I don’t know if the link will help you any if they don’t ship out of the US but here you go www.eastwood.com/welders/mig-welders.html
Nice job bro any idea how long did it last? Did it blister back out? Looking for another alternative instead of welding on a thin roof, This is a great video. Thanks.
It’s still holding well! Just be sure to neutralize or properly prep the metal before top coating! If your vehicle is a classic it has lead filler in the pillars already, more than likely. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏾
My Harley-Davidson gas tank has several small dents in it, could they be filled using this solder and would it survive the heat of powder coating after the tank is repaired?
David MacGregor that is an excellent question. I'm not so sure that it would stand up to temps (+\-400degF) that high. I guess it would also depend on how long it's at that temp. I've had car bodies dipped in acid tanks but they bake them about 8 hours at about 800 degrees before they dip them and all the solder melts off the body at that temp and time period. I can try it if you want me to?
Eastwood has a led free body filler they sell. It’s applied the same way. It’s melting point is a lot higher, maybe 600 degrees. I just had some metal powder coated that I used the body filler on and the heat from the powder coating was not a problem.
Robert Halseth yes but as soon as the pit gets hot enough to melt the lead it’ll fall out. Welding may be the better option in that case. Thanks for watching and commenting! 🙂
The finish looks fantastic, Gill.! I have a 1988 motorcycle fuel tank with the exact same small rust holes, do you think your repair method would suffice?
Gill, thanks for the video mate. I'm curious how the rust encapsulator handles the heat. Does it damage the product, causing it to bubble due to the heat and thereby risking rust forming under that repair later on?
I only use the encapsulator beneath the panels and in blind spots for corrosion proofing. It doesn’t work so well on fresh un-rusted metals. I use DTM primers on the clean metals. POR-15 handles radiant heat pretty well but doesn’t hold up well to ultraviolet. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. However, I see more rusted areas above where you were working. What would you do about all those surface places that are rust yet not complete holes yet? Thanks
@@gillrodshop Yep I have used rust encapsulator before on a 56 restoration. Inside doors, quarters, cowl, pillars, fenders. It has been a lifesaver so far. Going to be using it in same areas before epoxy sealer for my 70 Mach 1 restoration. Sad to say it has tiny holes all in the double layer of the cowl. But nowhere else. Lower quarters were replaced years ago it appears. Thanks for the feedback. Great work and info.
Will this work in a situation where you need the top and underside of the hole to look good? I want to fill luggage rack holes on a TR6 decklid and the metal is visible on both sides. Thanks!
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
I have a couple of belt line pins holes. I can access back side totally to clean up the corrosion issue. This will work. Best solution yet. First time viewer to boot!
Thanks Eric Martinson, I’m sure it’ll turn out great!
I haven't done any lead work since the 80's. Glad to see you passing on that old but good tech Gill.
Desert Mike DIY thanks.
That IS a good repair! Just got my ‘55 Nomad body back from the sandblaster. I have rust through on the passenger side drip rail and researching repair methods (other than cutting out a section and trying to weld in a patch).
@@johnkelly6942 thanks! It should work in that application well! I’ve repaired numerous pinholes with much success as long as the blind side is coated after the repair it should last for a very long time.
Found this video searching for rust hole repair and liked it so much I had to subscribe. Thank You
Thanks for your subscription 😃
Glaze only goes on top of primer, not direct to metal. Body filler goes direct to metal for those that dont know. Thanks for the leading tutorial. Sweet video man.
I usually use a 3M number 801 two part professional glaze that bonds to: primer, metal, fiberglass, and aluminum. Thanks for the suggestion. Sorry about not including the glaze type in the video.
Outstanding.
I think you're a natural teacher.
I am definitely gonna add this method to my bag of tricks.
This video makes me confident that I can do it too.
Thanks Tee Jay! 🙂
Excellent video, I've never thought of using lead to repair holes. I'm going to try this myself. Thank you.
Thanks!
Man, thank you!!! I have a few small holes in my trunk pan and I nearly had the whole thing replaced! Made my day and saved me a few hundred dollars.
Andres Vargas thanks for watching and commenting. 🙂
I need to repair some small screw holes and a few Mig Welding seams on a car I'm working on. Never used lead before and watched a few YT videos on the technique. Yours is the best one and was very helpful to me. The result you got here was amazing. I hope mine looks as good as yours. Thank you
Ford Fan Thank you for that. You most definitely can repair screw holes with this method and the weld seam as well. I suggest a good quality direct to metal epoxy primer over it. Thanks again!
Great tutorial man. Had a hole in my motorcycle gas tank and did this and it's been holding up just fine.
I’m glad it worked and appreciate the feedback! Someone had asked would this technique work on a gas tank hole and now I have a definitive answer, “yes it will “! Thank you!
@Gill Rod Shop no problem. Whoever asked you, just tell them to make sure they cleaned out any fuel/fume from the inside the tank, that way it doesn't explode
@@Covert_Op 👍🏾
Thank you Gill, I will use this method fixing all the pin holes on vintage Harley Davidson gas tank. Great video!
Paul Healey, it should workout just fine! Thanks
⁰⁰7777777777777777777777777777777777777777777p777777777777777777p9ppppp7ppp7ppp77p⁸p⁸⁸
this man is doing gods work 👏🏽
Thank you!
🤣
Thanks a lot Gill. My 70s Challenger has holes someone drilled in and this repair is perfect. I have been grinding out ALL BONDO and going to bare metal in all the flawed and damaged areas.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great tutorial on leading, the time I tried I was obviously using too much heat as it looked like all you used was just enough to get a good fast melt on the lead before paddling it into the holes and flattening it. If I ever get the chance to do that again, I'll remember this!
Thank you!
That is a very good repair. This is the first time I saw this type of work. Very impressive. Thank you for your video.
Jim thanks!
Great video! Helped me out a lot. I'm ot a body guy and needed a fix for a few tiny rust holes. Thanks!!!!!!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Excellent video. I have a motorcycle tank and I had a real hard time getting the solder to stick with flux and a torch but I think the tinning paste is really what's gonna help me here.
Yes, tinning is a necessity and it’ll most definitely stick after tinning. Thanks!
Excellent video thank you
Could this technique plug a 1.5” hole?
I’ve filled some pretty large ones but never one that size. It may work though! Thanks 😊
Got a bunch of rivet holes where the trim around short vinyl top was secured. Getting rid of vinyl so thinking about this to fill rivet holes. Great video. Thanks
Thanks for viewing!
I have done body work in high-school. I am interested as I have my own restoration project. But I am not a body man. Its interesting to see the techniques and when I work with a shop I understand what they are doing. Thanks for the vid. Well done.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you for the video.
I am restoring a 1970 Dodge Charger and the rear window area has lots of rust holes. I was planning on cutting out the rusty areas and patching in metal but this may be a better way. So often, even careful use of the MIG can result in burning through areas that are super thin. You start by trying to close up a tiny hole and end up making several larger holes that require more and more welding.
Gregory Kern I’m sure it’ll turn out fantastic! Thanks
Tig welder might be a good option for you
Had the same problem. Turn down the spec's on your welder and see if that solves the burn through.
Awesome! Have exactly the same holes that I need filling. Most shops want to weld in a patch for a few hundred bucks. Glad I found this video. Thanks in advance.
JOHN PAUL JONES Thank you!
Solid job.. i mig my holes and like you suggested.. rust encapsulate the backside.. ive really grown fond of the body solder technique.. kind of a dying art.. i think u might have coaxed me into buying a kit!
Justin Shields thanks for watching and for the kind comments.
I only mig weld when joining two sheets together. This method will be utilized next job. Ill tack with mig and seem up with lead. realy cool vid fella! subbed.
Thank you.
Very well explained. I have the kit from eastwood, now I can give it a try. Thanks for the video.
Ken Sendelofski thanks for watching.
Were can we get this kit .. looks great thanks for the demonstration that really helps
Eastwood Tool co.
@@gillrodshop thank you .the soonest they'll have it in stock is march
@@ramirogonzalez9214 Cool, it’s worth the wait! 👍🏾
@@gillrodshop I'm working on a 61 ford f100 unibody I'll post some photos with progress thanks again for the video I'm subscribing to your channel
@@ramirogonzalez9214 thank you. I’ll subscribe to yours to keep up with your F100 project.
Thanks Gill. I have a tricky job near the boot (trunk) of my 1993 Cavalier, and I had forgotten about body solder. You've made my day! Cheers, John.
thelonegroover Thank you and happy soldering.
Thanks Gill. Just been in the depths of my garage storage space and found a body solder kit I bought quite some years ago. The solder is lead based, but I guess the solder you're using in the video is non leaded as you're sanding it . is that correct? Cheers John.
thelonegroover I don't want to tell you wrong so I copied and pasted from Eastwood.com below.
Eastwood's Basic Body Solder Kit helps you complete small leading jobs with better adhesion, strength and durability than plastic fillers
Spreadable (plastic) range is 361-489 degreesF
Includes tools and accessories
30/70 lead-based body solder is slightly easier to work with than our lead-free solder, and provides better adhesion, strength and overall durability than plastic fillers. Includes 2 lbs. of solder for small solder jobs."
"
Thanks for the info Gill. I appreciate it .
Beautiful work!! I know what I'm going to do with some small areas now!!
RM Tbc Thank you.
I have some nasty rust that's created holes and thinned out a fist sized area of my old Toyota's tailgate that I'll be attacking this week. Would LOVE to beef up the area and fix the holes without using body filler. Just got a new cylinder of C25 for my mig too (would love to solder but I can dial back the mig and use thin wire which I already have), so I'm happy I came across your video!
I love the old Toyota trucks! I hope it turns out spectacular!
Great to see the old method for filling holes on panels. That lead won't go anywhere, like you say - far better than fillers. We vsll that technique 'lead loading' in the UK. One question - can you use this method on holes in flatter panels ? I am just thinking applying heat to one area on a flatter panel may cause distortion of the metal ?
Chris Ward thanks for watching and commenting! You should be fine as long as you heat the area around it evenly. The heat isn’t so bad but uneven heating/cooling is what warps panels. I’ve had car bodies baked and dipped in acid to strip the old body lead, fillers, and paint from them and they turn the oven up to 800 degrees F. 🙂
thanks for making this video - i need to do this on my vanagon window. never done it before, but this video is a great 'how to' that gives me some confidence to give it a go!!
inorganic inorganic thank you for watching and let me know how it turns out!
I have a 70 Camaro that was body worked and repainted I assume in the late 80s early 90s most all the filler shows cracks in it from age or deterioration.. The factory lead that connects the sail panel from the roof to the quarter is still perfect. Speaks highly of a repair like this...This cant be any worse for you health wise than all the chemicals in modern paints and primers just be cautious and use PPE.
Scott Coleman thanks.
enjoyed your video. To hte point and clear to understand. Giving it a go this wk-end with my 64 F100. Holes in the roof. Thank-you
I’m sure it’ll turn out great. Thanks for watching!
Dean Smith I’m sure it’ll turn out great. Thanks for watching!
Excellent job! Would love to try this method. Not sure I can get lot on Canada but will sure look into it! Old school was always the best fix! Thanks for sharing!!
Vicki k Gibson Thanks, I usually would not do a hole that large but I thought I'd give it a shot and it's held so far and I'm sure it'll work the same for you. Good luck on your project and stay tuned to my channel to see a weld in panel repair in the near future. Thanks much.
Fantastic. Confident and well paced instructions.
Thanks!
Super helpful video! If I don't have access to the backside of the panel is their a different tinning method I can use which doesn't contain acid?
None that I know of.
I have a motorcycle gas tank that has some big holes where the mounting cup was tacked on and I think this will be my solution
Love it, got some pinhole rust in my trucks tail gate and will be trying this method
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I must learn to do this , I hate bondo or as we say in Australia bog ,
Good video Sir, watching from across the pond in Blighty.
Thanks 😊
Very professional!!! Looks great man. Thanks for the tip
Chris Cadle thanks for watching and commenting.
That repair looked great when you were done, I was thinking you could just primer and paint it now, but perhaps a little glaze never hurt for the hidden low spots
Nice work. Always wanted to try lead-loading. 👍
Thanks 😊
you make it look easy thanks.will have to try it on my roof panel.
Fat T it's definitely easier than welding that thin metal but just remember not to apply too much heat when applying the body solder and you'll do just fine. Thanks
This is epic... would it work on a roof with 1 hole near the windshield.?... about the same size hole as you worked on
Sure! It should work anywhere you have that is clean, can be tinned, and the correct shape to hold the lead solder.
@@gillrodshop I'm totally trying this on a test piece first... so the steps are, clean metal really well (40 grit etc), apply tinning agent, flux (zinc chloriode) , hit with lead, then wash with water/baking soda to neutralize the acids in flux?
@@mikep509 Yes, sounds like you have it! You may want to get the metal as bright as possible by using a low speed wire brush chucked to a drill motor then scuff the area around it where you want the lead to feather with the metal, scuff/sand with a course grit (80-120) for a smoother transition around the edge. Then you may go to a 220 grit and it should look almost seamless. I’ve also published a video of me doing a Z28 T-Top area that may help. Thanks!
@@gillrodshop thanks so much for this window into alternative car repairs. It's a great learning opportunity 🍻🍻
@@mikep509 Welcome!
Nice work on the rust holes
Thanks
Thanks, been a long while since I practiced. Need to redo window edging and roof gutters
HULKGQ Nissan Patrol thanks for watching.
Excellent video, about to fix some holes on my TR4a, well done !!
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. Can a repair done with the lead stick be chromed? I am looking for a way to patch a few holes in an 80's motorcycle muffler as they are no longer available for the restoration. Thank you!
VMX yes it can be chromed by a professional plating company.
Gill Rod Shop Gill I read that most shops can’t chrome over lead/tin, is that just BS?
VMX anything that is conducive can be chromed. Plastic and other poor conductors can be chromed also, but the process is different! I spoke with a chrome plater today and he said he can chrome over tin/lead filler. Send a picture of the area on the muffler that you're repairing and maybe I can offer some advice. Thanks
Thanks for your straight-forward repair tip.
Tom Barto thanks for taking time to watch it.
Awesome job!! Thanks for teaching the steps!!
Thanks for watching and commenting
Gil you are an artist !!! Great work and thanks for sharing 🙏
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Now that's what I call a top repair 👍👍👍👍
spud train spotting thanks 😊
Brilliant and super repair for quality cars. Great video.
Thank you!
Great video. Repair looks fantastic. I'm going to try using body solder, lead free of course.
Rob Jones thanks
Excellent... Exactly what I am after. Much appreciated
Pete Smith thank you.
do you have the link of items you use ?
www.eastwood.com/eastwood-basic-body-solder-kit-basic.html
Thanks for the video,I will attempt on my project ,71 VW bug.
I’m sure it’ll work out great! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Awesome video. Love learning from a master craftsman. Keep putting out these kinds of videos, and I bet your channel will blow up.
Thanks
Thanks so much for this video, its to the point and easy to fallow. appreciated.
Thanks for watching and for the comment!
I have a pin hole issue near the bottom passenger side corner of my windshield on a Chevy pickup I’m fixing up. I don’t intend for a show quality truck just something I can drive and enjoy. I can’t access the back of the area. Would you still advise using this method if I can’t use rust inhibitor on the back side of the surface area I’m working on?
The window doglegs usually rust from the outside in but if it rusted from the inside out I would want to find the source of moisture and address that first. You should be able to use this method with success on pinholes in window frames. Thanks 😊
Does lead and aluminum stick together?thank you.
Lead sticks to the tin but I’ve had problems tinning aluminum. The short answer is no, I haven’t been able to make it stick to aluminum. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice way of doing it, but please tell how does the two different matals work when expanded/shrinked from heat/cold over time?
My first tought was why not just weld it?
Thanks
Frili Me I've welded a lot of patch panels but this is about not welding. Lead has been installed in millions of factory cars but not many people still use it anymore. As long as the temperature doesn't reach the melting point of the lead it should be okay. Thanks for the observation.
Nice job Gill ! Thank you from salt belt rusty Massachusetts .
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Im a painter myself, never done lead. Im just curious how long that would last or if it would cause ANY issues down the road. I would try to weld when I could but I certainly see the time savings here and how easy it is.
My 1966 new yorker still has the factory lead on it.
That is awesome work! Thats gona be my go to from now on, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the tip. I’m gonna give that a try.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. Learned a great deal
W.T.C. Finest thanks
wow yeah, impressive weld-quality result without welding
@@wematanye533 Thanks!
Serious question. What are the pros and cons of doing this over just using a mig welder to fill in the holes then grind the metal flush?
This method is quicker and can be done at a lower temperature. From my experience the mig would make this hole 3 times the size before it would start filling in. Also, no need to worry that much about warping due to the low temperature. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video. Always good to have other options besides welding
Craig Green thanks
Thank you, I was gonna use body filler and blonde to repair that rusted quarter panel on my 63 Pontiac. But ! I think lead is the way to go
Jeff Edgeman thanks for watching
Nice job, first time watching.
Thanks
Will this work well for sealing Small Gas tank Holes? Bigger then a pinhole but not terrible
It should, as long as the gas tank is free of any combustibles and flammable vapors.
@@gillrodshop Okay cool I’ll definitely try this out! What was it that you did to inevitably stop the rusting problem? Thanks
@@collin4768 www.eastwood.com/search/?q=body%20solder
Perfect!! Just what I was looking for. Thanks
Andy Ramz thank you! 🙂
Great video. Thanks. Wondering what type of rust encapsulator you use ?
MT thanks, I use Eastwood brand and you can usually find it on eastwood.com. If you need to thin it use a professional lacquer thinner.
Gill Rod Shop .Thank you for responding. Looking them up now...
Outstanding work brotha. You are a gift from God. Thank you so much. I have subscribed to your channel and hit my alerts.
Thanks for the great comments and subscribing!
If I have an antenna hole about an inch wide on my roof, can I use a scrap piece of metal and lead it in place before final finishing?
I’ve never tried it but it should work if the plug is larger than the hole and placed on the backside and lead on top. I have tacked welded a plug and then use lead body filler over it! Thanks!
Not that I know what am I talking about but why not using aluminum insted of lead? Im just asking because of health reasons. Nice work btw. Thanks for sharing.
Tomo Polic that's steel. Lead was used on these cars at the factory along the sail panel and a few other places and it holds up well. Thanks
Great Video...Just what I need...Thanks Gill
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting!
No need for backing plate? The lead won’t flow into the other side? I’m planning to use this on bottom of my car door it has small rust holes. Thank you
No need for a backing plate if the hole is small. This video that I’ve linked below shows a blind hole done on a T-top pillar and what the lead looks like from the backside once it’s done. You have to use the proper heat and not over heat it though. Thanks for watching and commenting!
th-cam.com/video/ur-etZqrnXk/w-d-xo.html
@Gill Rod Shop perfect thank you so much, Eastwood has the smallest kit on back order until January but at least now I have a better alternative thank you!
Good Job Sir, you made it look easy.
I'm repairing rust holes in a child's wagon. The wagon was sandblasted and epoxy primered. Do I have to sand or grind the epoxy off to bare metal to solder the holes?
Yes, you will have to take it back to bare metal and tin it before soldering. Being that the wagon is just a single panel without a sub panel behind it the repair work will be visible from the inside.
@@gillrodshop thank you for the quick reply. Much appreciated and great video!
Best lead vid I've seen.
rotorr22 thanks 🙂
Is warping a concern using this method?
No, as long as the heat is applied evenly and it’s allowed to cool slowly. Warping happens primarily during the cool cycle. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@gillrodshop Bro, do you know any alternatives to the Eastwood brand? I can't find any retailers in Canada that sell this product, and it will cost me over $100 CAD to purchase directly from Eastwood.
@@p.stroker8920 I don’t know of any. You are the second person that can’t find any Eastwood vendors in Canada. If you find someone there that sells it, please post. I don’t know if the link will help you any if they don’t ship out of the US but here you go www.eastwood.com/welders/mig-welders.html
Very good technique, good video!
Mr Joe Sanchez thank you!
Nice job bro any idea how long did it last? Did it blister back out? Looking for another alternative instead of welding on a thin roof, This is a great video. Thanks.
It’s still holding well! Just be sure to neutralize or properly prep the metal before top coating! If your vehicle is a classic it has lead filler in the pillars already, more than likely. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏾
Great video! Thanks, I will use what you showed.
jeff McCartney thanks.
This is an awesome video! Thanks for making and posting it! 👍😉
carny1865 thanks for watching! 🙂
My Harley-Davidson gas tank has several small dents in it, could they be filled using this solder and would it survive the heat of powder coating after the tank is repaired?
David MacGregor that is an excellent question. I'm not so sure that it would stand up to temps (+\-400degF) that high. I guess it would also depend on how long it's at that temp. I've had car bodies dipped in acid tanks but they bake them about 8 hours at about 800 degrees before they dip them and all the solder melts off the body at that temp and time period. I can try it if you want me to?
Eastwood has a led free body filler they sell. It’s applied the same way. It’s melting point is a lot higher, maybe 600 degrees. I just had some metal powder coated that I used the body filler on and the heat from the powder coating was not a problem.
Can small rust holes in a steel fire pit be repaired using this body solder method?
Robert Halseth yes but as soon as the pit gets hot enough to melt the lead it’ll fall out. Welding may be the better option in that case. Thanks for watching and commenting! 🙂
great demonstration
Thank you!
The finish looks fantastic, Gill.! I have a 1988 motorcycle fuel tank with the exact same small rust holes, do you think your repair method would suffice?
Gavin Lambert it should work. Let me know the results! Thanks
Gill, thanks for the video mate. I'm curious how the rust encapsulator handles the heat. Does it damage the product, causing it to bubble due to the heat and thereby risking rust forming under that repair later on?
I only use the encapsulator beneath the panels and in blind spots for corrosion proofing. It doesn’t work so well on fresh un-rusted metals. I use DTM primers on the clean metals. POR-15 handles radiant heat pretty well but doesn’t hold up well to ultraviolet. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Great video tutorial.
Question once completed is it necessary to neutralize the area with baking soda? Thanks!
Great work,thank you.
@@Fred-y8w 👍🏾
Nice skill lead repair, where do u get solder paste? Is tat the same stuff as those used for electronic soldering?
Great video. However, I see more rusted areas above where you were working. What would you do about all those surface places that are rust yet not complete holes yet? Thanks
Rick Bell eastwood's rust encapsulator works on any area that hasn't rusted all the way through. I must've missed those spots 🙂 thanks!
@@gillrodshop Yep I have used rust encapsulator before on a 56 restoration. Inside doors, quarters, cowl, pillars, fenders. It has been a lifesaver so far. Going to be using it in same areas before epoxy sealer for my 70 Mach 1 restoration. Sad to say it has tiny holes all in the double layer of the cowl. But nowhere else. Lower quarters were replaced years ago it appears. Thanks for the feedback. Great work and info.
Nice job I thought I was the only one left in the world that could solder panels with lead working. Damn EPA lead filler will last forever
Nice job. Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Will this work in a situation where you need the top and underside of the hole to look good? I want to fill luggage rack holes on a TR6 decklid and the metal is visible on both sides. Thanks!
It should! You would have to file and sand the back side to make the solder even with the surface. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@gillrodshop Thanks!!