GE Control Board Rebuild - WR55x10942 / WR55x10942p
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ต.ค. 2021
- Replacement of relays, capacitors & resistors for GE refrigerator control board. Part # WR55x10942, WR55x10942p, and many other similar control boards.
Links:
Rebuild Kit:
No Longer Available
If you need a soldering iron, this is one that was used in the video and can be purchased through this affiliate link(s):
amzn.to/3rfTdpn
If you need a WR55x10942 Control Board:
amzn.to/3xggCL7
Time marks:
0:01sec - Relay carnage
0:13sec - Introduction, conformal coating, disclaimers, warnings, etc.
1:30sec - What's included in the rebuild kit
2:05sec - What can make a board non-rebuildable
3:40sec - Tools needed
4:21sec - Basic concept and high level overview
4:39sec - Solder removal
5:29sec - Adding and removing solder close-up
6:20sec - Managing conformal coating
7:10sec - Soldering relays in
11:05sec - Removing and replacing resistors
14:34sec - Removing and replacing capacitors
15:32sec - Capacitors orientation and feeding leads through board
16:37sec - Outro and recap - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hi Everybody, Welcome!
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Thanks so much! Andy
My dude. You taught me how to solder properly. Thank you so much. I was wasting so much solder.
I had a problem with power supply so I changed all the capacitors at the control board and fixed
Love it!
Good stuff!!!! BK
Nice
Thanks …👍🏻
GE Artica S/S PS25NGMDCC
Temp/ Control Board. WR55X10942P
The lights go out and temps go down only a few degrees. Power off / on reset works for a time but same cycle starts over. Usually off/on once a day. I got 13.5 volts on each end of the wiring. I tried 2
Hi, I have been watching your videos, I have a GE side by side that has me stumped it is not cooling adequately, around 10F in freezer, and around 45f in fridge. Board looks fine but get an Ohm of 11 on the fan resistor plug (I believe the condenser fan-by the compressor) but does not look burned, the fan itself spins when powered. When unplugged the fan does not spin freely like a top. Will replace the fan motor. What I have done so far is check Ohms on compressor and added a little R134a (filled to 6psi), Ohms on the pins check out (around 4,6,10) and get 1.03amps when running, just a little frost on the low side line, checked Ohms on the thermistors, they seemed to check out Ok per your previous video. Model is GE TBX21CIBRRWW. I am a home gamer but love to fix stuff that breaks. Hope you can help me out. Would just an evap fan cause this thing to not cool adequately? Also, would I have to rebuild the board or just change out the Evap Fan resistor if I still get 11Ohms after fan replacement? Thanks and I appreciate your videos. P.S, there is frost on low pressure line, the high side is not extremely hot, it is just warm though which seems odd.
temp senso or overload relay,capacitor.
I put a bullet connector on low side thicker refrigerant line, added some gas 134a, works well now. @@shatnersufolanded7785
Hi, I have a board exactly like this one and the little black resistor that's on the back connected to R12 has burned out. Any idea of where I can purchase it from?
Part 2
WR55x10120 is the part # of the Temp/Control Board. I tried 2 diff boards and got the same results.
13.5 volts at both ends of wiring. Main board looks ok.
Did you ready replace the wr55x10942p?
This called an encoder refrigerator and believe it requires a slight wiring modification to the harness at the main board which is covered in the provided instructions with a wr55x10942p.
Let me know if this has been replaced. Thanks
No, I got the part #s mixed. I replaced the WR55x10120 inside the refrig
@@JM-cb6gh I see, one of the symptoms of a failing main control board (behind the fridge) is as you describe, turning on and off intermittently.
If you're comfortable enough rebuilding the board, you could try that or replace the main control board.
@@GraceAppliance I replaced the Main Control Board and all is well now. Thanks.
Outstanding! You're welcome!
Great tutorial! I am chasing an odd issue with my refrigerator where the freezers evaporator coil will not cool. I have verified that all of thermistors are changing state and the fans are all working. I am beginning to think it is an issue with a component on the board. Visual inspection of the board doesn't reveal anything suspect. Do you have any thoughts on what could cause this?
Hello, I have a broken WR55X10156 board and I bought a wr55x10942 instead by mistake. It has everything the same except that the WR55X10156 has some pins (J15) where the compressor is connected and the wr55x10942 only has the solder on the board without those pins. If I solder the two pins from my old WR55X10156 to the new wr55x10942, would my refrigerator work? Since all the new board is the same as the old one (Except that)
Thank you!!
Help, I have the same side by side with that board. It runs almost continuously. Too cold on both sides. I've swapped both boards.
Hi! First of all. Thanks for sharing this tutorial!! I have a ge profile PSE27NHWHCBB. After a blackout the condenser fan motor stoped spining and the refrigerator stoped working. and after unplugged and using a normal fan in the back everything went back to normal. I did this just in the mean time I got a new fun. But Before this my ice maker already stopped making ice so i would keep it turned off, but I dont know why really I had the amazing idea to give it a try and turned on. Minutes later the back of the refrigerator started smell burnt. Now several parts of my board burned out. Including one of the resistor and i think a little chip in the back of it. How is possible that turning on the ice maker can cause so much damage? Im really afraid thar replacing the fan and the board and turning on the ice maker again will blow up the brand new board. Can that be possible? I really hope you can help me before doing anything haha
Found it. Is it still available?
My fridge is blinking the temp numbers 38 then 44 and dings each time. The inside is still cooling. We unplugged for 30 seconds. That did not help. Any advise?
Hi Sharon, please send your model number from inside the refrigerator section. Thanks!
I was wondering if you were ever able to fix your refrigerator by replacing the capacitors and relays. My fridge cools for one full night but then doesn't cool as good or maybe not at all the next day. I'm guessing it's the largest relay on the board causing the problem. I tested all the capacitors with an ESI meter and they only lost 10% UF which is normal
What are the specs of resistors?
Hi, I have a question have you ever made a video how to test this damper part number us005876014A ?
Hi George,
I have not, but that isn't a part number I recoognize, but if you'll send your model number for your fridge I'll see if I can help point you in the right direction. Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance it’s a Mabe MFME5NJZADSS
@@gmazloom thanks, I'm not able to find an exact match for your exact tech sheet, but if you'd like me to send what I am able to find, it may be useful for you. Feel free to send an email to Graceappliance@gmail.com
Thanks!
@@GraceAppliance thank you, Email sent :-)
Is the board rebuild kit available? I may have missed it in your notes
Hey Joseph, yes. You should see a link in the description to purchase there:
www.graceappliance.com/gekit
@@GraceAppliance Hi Andy, I just recently ordered the control board rebuild kit. I removed the existing board and noticed that it didn’t have the L shaped relay. Is the kit I ordered a style that covers a few variations of the board? I am a tech like you, and would usually just get another board, but was told by my parts vendor that GE had raised the price by $100. You are probably already aware of that. Quite rediculous, $400 for a refrigerator board. The vendor also stated that Whirlpool may do away with the $60 core charge and do the same thing as GE
@@josephfolsom2030 I'd LOVE if they'd do away with core returns altogether! That would be great. Frigidaire recently did the same. I've been told that whirlpool due to supply issue has been rebuilding used boards in house and sending them out as new! Uggg
Yes, the kit will cover many of the alternate GE boards even if you don't have an L shaped relay. Just be very mindful of the capacitors uF (capacitance) rating that it matches exactly what you replaced with.
The voltage on these can be greater, but not less than what is currently installed.
Make sure the relays have the same voltage rating as your current board which will likely be 12 vdc.
Let me know if you have any questions as you're going.
It shipped out yesterday, so you should have it soon.
Thanks!
Andy
@@GraceAppliance The Lord Bless you
@@GraceAppliance Hi Andy, Received the control board rebuild kit (Thank you). I noticed that the relays are all the same in the kit. I have 4 black relays on my board and one brownish red one. Should I change out all of those relays with the ones in the kit especially the brownish red one? Also my evap and condenser resistors are green with no striping on them, they don’t look browned nor is there any burns on them on the opposite side of the board that would include the relays as well. I know that relays may not show anything on the outside but can still be faulty. I was going to change the resistors if those in the kit will work. The capacitors are not bulged at all. My board does not have the L shaped relay and I’m thinking they replaced it with the Brn/red one. Also the Brown/ red relay has a different rating of 17A at 250v and 20A at 125v. It is 12dc as the others Clarification needed. Thanks