Hi James. Assuming you are going to remove your upper walls to treat the back of the boards. I suggest parcel tape or duct tape over the exposed steel to form a barrier between the steel and ply Cheers Lee Cherry
All wood should be treated both sides as it is hygroscopic and if one side is more porous than the other it will warp. The same applies when when veneering or applying laminate etc. both sides need to be treated the same. If you look at ply it is always an odd number of veneers to ensure the grain is in the same direction both sides. 👍👍✔✔
Keep going mate you are getting there . Everything is trial and error .on a fit out on a boat and o No two boats are the same .as some will say . all the best keep safe and well.
Re pocket doors. Have a look at some caravans, especially the larger ones. They have had them for years and it would save you “reinventing the wheel” so to speak
i used danish oil on all my wood sides as so much easier to maintain in the future... would never use varnish as will chip and discolour... also alot cheaper.. would be worth trying on a bit of scrap to see what you think..
James. Avid watcher of all you videos and enjoy them all , thanks. I had spotted the steel issue. It I’ll will produce condensation. One solution would be cork tiles, if you have the depth, not sure how flush the steel is to the Battening! I used cork tiles to line the inside of my mushroom vents , done the trick perfectly! Cheers Mark
What about some sliding wardrobe door runners and wheel sets, James. You can also get heavy duty drawer runners up to a metre long for £20 - 50, depending on length. All the best, mate.
James, Have you thought about using a heavy drawer slider sliders for your pocket door? I have seen heavy wood work spaces that ride on sliders . Look at heavy drawer sliders.
Hey James, just a question. Being obviously cold on the boat right now, will the wood expand in the spring and summer. If so, should a gap be left between sheets (lets say 1/8" or so). It would be covered by trim anyway. Cheers 🎉
The walls are looking great James Nogun Wales is refitting a narrowboat and one of his videos he was building his own sliding doors similar to what you are talking about might be worth watching good luck with with taking previous walls down to protect them see you next time 😊😊😊
Have you thought about putting a vapor barrier (plastic sheet) or like house wrap between the foam and your plywood? Since your taking down the plywood to treat it.. Because if anything sweats it will run down to the bilge. Just a thought.
For your pocket door have you considered the tracks for bifold doors? They are a narrow track and there is wheeled hardware for your pocket door to travel on.
A floor track along the bottom of the slot itself, combined with a few "docking" structures along the opposite wall would ensure the door stays secure and doesnt get knocked off the "hanger" track in the pocket. Securing it against the opposite wall could also facilitate a lock. Probably good to have a latch to keep the door stowed. As far as the exposed steel, could you not put a layer of insulation tape over them in addition to the wood sealant to keep the rust from leeching? Can't wait to see what you come up with - keep up the great work!
Also thinking that whatever you hang the door from will need some pretty beefy vertical support both for weight offset and to keep the door secure when bumped edge-on.
James, your trim pieces, can be made from the same boards your using, set yourself a jig up with your router. Round over bit or whichever you choose, trim width , trim down both sides, trim and boards match. Hope that helps
First coat of solvent varnish (Not water-based) should be diluted with 10-20% thinners/white spirit to allow better penetration into the substrate instead of just sitting on the surface.
Your pocket doors have to be angled on the one side to fit the profile of the gunnel. Is that going to be a problem when the door is in the wall, the doors edge wont be flush . And on another note , you did a great job on the walls
It would have been yes. BUT for the job to be proper I would have had to do the same to the lower walls which means taking off all the boards below. The other BUT is the fact that steel is not structural, so all I needed to do is protect the boards from the steel - we’ll see in a few years time if I have loads of horizontal bleed lines Thanks mate
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt James, I’ve been following you since day one on sloe patrol and loving every episode I live in Cyprus and would have loved to do what you’re doing too old now (71) thanks for entertaining me 👍👍
If you're protecting the back and the sides of the wood I wouldn't bother with yacht varnish I will probably go for a polyurethane varnish instead and water down the first coat by 10% and then give it two coats without watering it down
Your comments section is always packed with great suggestions, it's become half the fun of your videos for me.
I really like that you are prepared to listen to advise. Keep up the good work mate
Lots of handy tips in the comments James! I love it when a plan comes together . X exciting times mr James !!
Great videos James it’s fascinating watching you work things out great work, it’s all looking good. Have great week 😊
20:58 love the fix cheap and looking like a pro door runner
James: Putting the sealer on the metal strips would help with the moisturwe as well.......>
Hi James. Assuming you are going to remove your upper walls to treat the back of the boards. I suggest parcel tape or duct tape over the exposed steel to form a barrier between the steel and ply
Cheers Lee Cherry
Makes the grain look good
Pondering the random trim whilst sat on the throne is the least of your worries.
I really love your ingenuity at finding different ways to introduce yourself ! makes me smile each time .
All wood should be treated both sides as it is hygroscopic and if one side is more porous than the other it will warp. The same applies when when veneering or applying laminate etc. both sides need to be treated the same. If you look at ply it is always an odd number of veneers to ensure the grain is in the same direction both sides. 👍👍✔✔
Yes definitely
Keep going mate you are getting there . Everything is trial and error .on a fit out on a boat and o
No two boats are the same .as some will say . all the best keep safe and well.
Hi James. Those chariots are designed to run on Unistrut.👍
Re pocket doors. Have a look at some caravans, especially the larger ones. They have had them for years and it would save you “reinventing the wheel” so to speak
i used danish oil on all my wood sides as so much easier to maintain in the future... would never use varnish as will chip and discolour... also alot cheaper.. would be worth trying on a bit of scrap to see what you think..
James.
Avid watcher of all you videos and enjoy them all , thanks.
I had spotted the steel issue.
It I’ll will produce condensation.
One solution would be cork tiles, if you have the depth, not sure how flush the steel is to the Battening!
I used cork tiles to line the inside of my mushroom vents , done the trick perfectly!
Cheers Mark
James James James.....My wife has seen this episode and now wants pocket doors, thanks very much😢 Where did you buy the running gear please
What about some sliding wardrobe door runners and wheel sets, James.
You can also get heavy duty drawer runners up to a metre long for £20 - 50, depending on length.
All the best, mate.
James, Have you thought about using a heavy drawer slider sliders for your pocket door? I have seen heavy wood work spaces that ride on sliders . Look at heavy drawer sliders.
Have you ever considered plastic vapour barriers between the insulation and wood. Like the do in homes here in Canada?
Hey James, just a question. Being obviously cold on the boat right now, will the wood expand in the spring and summer. If so, should a gap be left between sheets (lets say 1/8" or so). It would be covered by trim anyway.
Cheers 🎉
Looking relly good james see you on the cut soon
Thanks - hope to see you one day
The walls are looking great James Nogun Wales is refitting a narrowboat and one of his videos he was building his own sliding doors similar to what you are talking about might be worth watching good luck with with taking previous walls down to protect them see you next time 😊😊😊
build one side of your bulk head, install the rail then build the second side, don't over think it.
Have you thought about putting a vapor barrier (plastic sheet) or like house wrap between the foam and your plywood?
Since your taking down the plywood to treat it.. Because if anything sweats it will run down to the bilge.
Just a thought.
Hi can you get batons and router it out so you can slide the runner in that would stop it from blowing in and out
For your pocket door have you considered the tracks for bifold doors? They are a narrow track and there is wheeled hardware for your pocket door to travel on.
A floor track along the bottom of the slot itself, combined with a few "docking" structures along the opposite wall would ensure the door stays secure and doesnt get knocked off the "hanger" track in the pocket. Securing it against the opposite wall could also facilitate a lock. Probably good to have a latch to keep the door stowed. As far as the exposed steel, could you not put a layer of insulation tape over them in addition to the wood sealant to keep the rust from leeching? Can't wait to see what you come up with - keep up the great work!
Also thinking that whatever you hang the door from will need some pretty beefy vertical support both for weight offset and to keep the door secure when bumped edge-on.
James, your trim pieces, can be made from the same boards your using, set yourself a jig up with your router. Round over bit or whichever you choose, trim width , trim down both sides, trim and boards match. Hope that helps
First coat of solvent varnish (Not water-based) should be diluted with 10-20% thinners/white spirit to allow better penetration into the substrate instead of just sitting on the surface.
God bless the work. A good job.
Great video. Thanks for the mention. Happy to be of help.
Sliding closet door and acsessorios.
Your pocket doors have to be angled on the one side to fit the profile of the gunnel. Is that going to be a problem when the door is in the wall, the doors edge wont be flush . And on another note , you did a great job on the walls
Lookup Nogun Wales who builds anything narrowboat. He just built sliding narrowboat barn doors.
2:59 - That'll stain the wood, yeah, but not protect it in any significant way. It's cheaper because it's cheap.
Is there a locking mechanism on the door so it's not sliding in and out when the boat rocks in the water?
Will the door hiss when it opens or closes? ;-D
👍
Thick foil tape usually used to join insulation would go over that exposed steel to stop moisture transfer to the lining boards. Costs peanuts.
💜💙💚
James would it be a good idea to Vactan the steel behind the wall boards
It would have been yes. BUT for the job to be proper I would have had to do the same to the lower walls which means taking off all the boards below. The other BUT is the fact that steel is not structural, so all I needed to do is protect the boards from the steel - we’ll see in a few years time if I have loads of horizontal bleed lines
Thanks mate
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt James, I’ve been following you since day one on sloe patrol and loving every episode I live in Cyprus and would have loved to do what you’re doing too old now (71) thanks for entertaining me 👍👍
If you encapsulate the weeks in the track how will you fix the wheels to the door slab. 🤷🏼♂️
Don’t know if this helps they do a none slotted din rail
If you're protecting the back and the sides of the wood I wouldn't bother with yacht varnish I will probably go for a polyurethane varnish instead and water down the first coat by 10% and then give it two coats without watering it down
👍👌❤️🇨🇦
Did you look at barn doors...they don't need the extra studding
Barn doors need space on the wall.